Fall Lawn Care - University of Minnesota · Perennial ryegrass is often mixed with Kentucky...

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© 2014 Regents of the University of Minnesota. All rights reserved.

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Fall Lawn CareSAM BAUER, EXTENSION EDUCATOR- TURGRASS SCIENCECOME GROW WITH US, MORRIS 2017

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FALL IS LAWN CARE TIME!

Cool-season grasses are quickly recovering from stresses of summer Warm-season weeds are slowing down

and dying off Less weed competition and good activity

of herbicides Warm soils ideal for planting grass seed

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Minnesota Lawn Care CalendarKey: P—Indicates preferable times to carry out certain lawn care practices.

A—Indicates acceptable times to carry out certain lawn care practices.

PRACTICE APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV

Fertilizing A A A A A A A P P P P P P P P P

Mowing A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A

Watering A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A A

Aeration A A A A P P P P P P A A

Dethatching A A A A P P P P P P

WEED CONTROL

Broadleaf Weeds A A A A A A A P P P P P P P

Crabgrass-pre-emergent P P P

Crabgrass-post-emergent A A A A A A A

Seeding A A A A A P P P P P P A A

Sodding P P P P P P P A A A A A A A P P P P P P P P P

www.sustland.umn.edu

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Characteristics of Various Lawn Maintenance Programs

Levels of Maintenance

Watering Practices

Mowing Heights

# of Fertilizer Applications

V.Low none 3”+ 0

Low little to none 3”+ 1

Medium some 2.5-3.5” 2

High regularly 2-3” 3+

Best Adapted

Fescue

Fescue, Common

KBG

Fescue, KBG, perennial ryegrass

Imp. KBG, Perennial Ryegrass

Weed Control

None

Only as needed

Only as needed

Controlled

Presenter

Presentation Notes

This table shows examples of maintenance needs based on the level of lawn quality expected The level of maintenance will directly effect aesthetic appearance, however if the proper species are chosen it is very possible to produce a lower maintenance lawn that looks pleasing throughout the growing season. It is important to note that turfgrass species chosen and site limitations (i.e. poor drainage, clay soils, etc.) determine the maintenance level necessary for the lawn to be healthy; there is little reason to maintain lawns above the point of keeping them healthy – that would normally be considered non-sustainable lawn care Remember that with an increasing level of maintenance, watering, fertilizer applications and, with lower tolerances for weeds, the need for weed control may also need to be increased. [CLICK] There are three major cool-season lawn grasses that perform well in Minnesota. Kentucky bluegrass can be used in situations ranging from low to high care. The common varieties generally require lower levels of care than the newer higher maintenance varieties. However, improvements continue to be made in turfgrass breeding. In the near future we will likely have varieties of bluegrass that have many of the low maintenance characteristics of the common types combined with the durability and disease resistance associated the newer improved types. Fine-leaved fescues perform best at very low to medium levels of lawn care. They are often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass for lower maintenance lawn situations and are rarely found in pure stands of only fine fescue. Perennial ryegrass, generally, does not do well in situations with anything less than medium care. Perennial ryegrass is often mixed with Kentucky bluegrass for medium to higher use lawns and where quality expectations and maintenance levels are correspondingly higher. [CLICK] More extensive information on characteristics of lawn grasses can be found on page 7 – 10 in your Master Gardener Core Course Manual on Lawn Care.

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Turfgrass Species and Seed

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COOL-SEASON TURF SPECIES FOR MINNESOTA LAWNS

Kentucky bluegrass– Best quality, high maintenance, good spreading

ability, poor in shade Fine fescue species

– Shade tolerant, low maintenance, slow growing Tall fescue

– Best wear tolerance, heat and shade tolerant, coarser leaf texture

Perennial ryegrass– Quick germinating, poor tolerance to winter and

summer stress, poor in shade

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COOL-SEASON TURF SPECIES THAT ARE NOT ACCEPTABLE (VISUALLY OR SUSTAINABLY)

Annual ryegrass– Unsightly and annual

Rough bluegrass– Intolerant to heat– Doesn’t blend well

Supina bluegrass– Light green

Certain varieties of the popular species– ‘Linn’ perennial rye,

‘Kentucky-31’ tall fescue

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FINE FESCUES A group of fescue species with similar characteristics

and appearance– Strong creeping red fescue– Slender creeping red fescue– Chewings fescue– Hard fescue– Sheep fescue

Shade adapted Low maintenance Drought tolerant Utilized for no-mow mixtures

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Hard fescue was mentioned in lesson 3 as a traditional turfgrass species. It is part of the fine fescues, but is currently underutilized in the Upper Midwest. The species can grow in shade or sun, needs very little fertilizer, has good drought tolerance and is slow-growing. The primary limitation of this grass is its inability to tolerate high levels of traffic and/or wear.

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TURF-TYPE TALL FESCUE Comparable textures to

Kentucky bluegrass Bunch-type grass

– Improved varieties form smaller bunches and possibly some spreading ability

Deep green color Best if TF consists of 75%

or more of a stand Spring planting and avoid

poorly draining areas- ice

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Tall fescue7 days after seeding

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IMPORTANCE OF PURCHASING QUALITY GRASS SEED Essential for the long term performance of a

lawn Cost of seed is insignificant compared to long

term establishment and maintenance costs Lawn quality can vary greatly depending on

species and varieties chosen Important consideration when trying to match

existing species

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MIXTURES AND BLENDS

Mixture: A combination of two or more species Blend: A combination of two or more varieties of

the same species Examples:

– Sunny, highest quality Kentucky bluegrass blend

– Sun and shade, average quality 50% Kentucky bluegrass, 35% fine fescue, 15% perennial

ryegrass– Shady, average quality

25% creeping red fescue, 25% hard fescue, 25% chewingsfescue, 25% Kentucky bluegrass

Presenter

Presentation Notes

A seed mixture is a combination of 2 or more species. Mixtures are generally recommended for lawns with differing characteristics; for instance, part of the lawn is shaded and moist wet, whereas another part is sunny and dry. A seed blend is a combination of 2 or more varieties of the same species. The reason for blending varieties is that different varieties are susceptible and/or resistant to different diseases and insects. Blends should only be used in settings with minimal variations. Some examples of mixtures and blends for site conditions: Sunny areas with a desired quality of medium to high, providing that there is adequate moisture available- a Kentucky bluegrass blend would be your best option. For shady, dry areas the seed mixture should contain greater than 50% fine fescues with a higher proportion of Kentucky bluegrass to perennial ryegrass. Shady, moist wet conditions might require a mixture of rough or supina bluegrass in combination with fine fescues and Kentucky bluegrass.

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Renovation and Improvement

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BASIC CONSIDERATIONS PRIOR TO ANY RENOVATION

Time of year

Seeding vs. sodding

Turf species/variety

Resources: irrigation, equipment, etc

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4 Basic Renovation Options

1. Lawn improvement

2. Partial renovation

3. Species conversion

4. Complete renovation

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Lawn Renovation1. Lawn improvement (< 20% weeds or bare soil): Utilize

existing grass, increasing inputs for a short period of time- fertilizer, aeration, weed control, seed.

2. Partial renovation (20-40% weeds or bare soil): Utilize existing species and newly seeded species, requires handicapping the existing grass.

3. Species conversion (> 40% weeds or bare soil): Control the existing vegetation, establish new species in a short time. Change to lower maintenance species

4. Complete renovation (> 40% weeds or bare soil, soil issues): Control the existing vegetation, modify or amend soil, establish new species

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June 1st

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July 1st

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Mowing, Fertilizing, Watering

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PROPER MOWING AS PART OF GOOD LAWN MAINTENANCE Height: 2.5 to 3.5 inches

– Mow as high as possible in shade Frequency: 1/3 guideline Return clippings to the lawn Keep blades sharp Consider no-mow options

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Mowing height affects rooting depth and irrigation requirements

Image: www.atlasturf.com

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Desired height (in.) Mow at .1

Growth rate (in./day)

.2 .3

1.0 1.5 5 2.5 1.7

2.0 3.0 10 5 3

3.0 4.5 15 7.5 5

Mowing Intervals (in days) to Remove no more than 1/3 Top Growth

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Higher mowing heights, in general, require less frequent mowing when applying the 1/3rd rule. As demonstrated by this mowing guide, higher mowing heights require less frequent mowing because the lawn can be allowed to grow more between each mowing. For example: If your desired height of cut is 2 inches, then you need to be mowing your lawn by the time it reaches 3 inches (1 inch of growth between each mowing). Likewise, if your desired height of cut is 3.5 inches, then you need to be mowing when your lawn grows to 5.25 inches (1.75 inches of growth between each mowing). A plant’s growth rate is dependent on temperature, time of year, water, and soil fertility. For that reason, it is better to mow when needed (follow guide) rather than on a fixed schedule like mowing every 5 days. Mowing will need to be more frequent in the spring and fall, and less frequent in the summer months.

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LAWN FERTILITY PROGRAMS All fertility programs are based on nitrogen Additional nutrients are supplied based on

a soil test (w/o test, suggest 2N:1K)

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Fine fescue mix: 75% creeping red, 10% hard, 10% chewings, 5% sheep Tall fescue: 85% TF 3 varieties, 15% KBG KBG/prye/FF: 50% 3 varieties of kbg, 25% 2 varieties prye, 25% crf Prairie shortgrass: 20% canada wild rye, 20% side oats grama, 20% western wheatgrass, 10% little bluestem, 10% slender wheatgrass, 10% bluegrama, 5% sand dropseed, 3% switchgrass, 2% junegrass

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10 = 10%, for 1lb N per 1000ft2 we need 10lb of product

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NITROGEN FERTILIZER REQUIREMENTS BY SPECIES

Cool Season GrassesManagement

Low High

Fine fescue 0.5 – 2 N/A

Perennial ryegrass 2 – 4 4 – 6

Kentucky bluegrass- commonimproved

1 – 21.5 – 3

2 – 43 – 6

Adapted from: Dr. David Gardner Ohio State University, Turfgrass Fertilization

Presenter

Presentation Notes

As mentioned earlier, nitrogen fertilizer requirements vary by species. Here is a chart showing fertilizer requirements by species under two different types of management (numbers are in lbs of nitrogen per 1000ft² per year). Fine fescues in low management programs should receive from 0.5 to 2# of nitrogen. High management programs should provide from 2 to 4#. Perennial ryegrasses require the highest amounts of nitrogen with 2 to 4# for low and 4 to 6# in high programs. As you can also see, the common (or old) varieties of Kentucky bluegrass require less nitrogen than the improved (or newer) varieties. Grasses grown with the low management philosophy will generally have a lower aesthetic appearance, however in most cases because of stiffer leaf tissue they will not be as susceptible to disease and insect invasion. Though, with a lower turf density weeds may become a problem. Grasses grown with the high management philosophy will produce the best quality but will ultimately have more succulent tissue, an attribute that is inviting to many disease and insect pests. Weeds will be less of a problem in this situation due to the increased density of the turf from adequate levels of nutrients.

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Other considerations for nitrogen fertility Site conditions• Organic matter• Soil texture• Microclimates• Environmentally sensitive

areas

Management practices• Irrigation• Grass clippings• Timing of application• Level of mowing

Fertilizer• Nitrogen source• Cost• Availability• Ease of application• Additional nutrients (P/K)

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Program• Total yearly nitrogen required = 2lbs N / 1000ft2• Clippings returned = 0.5 – 1.0lb credit• Amount to apply yearly = 1.0 – 1.5lbs N

• Application #1- Labor Day (1lb N, 50% slow release)

• Application #2- Memorial Day (0.5lb N, 50% slow release) *not a required application

N recommendation would increase with: low organic matter, coarse soil texture, adequate irrigation, clippings removed

Example: Low-Input lawn nitrogen program

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MINNESOTA PHOSPHORUS FERTILIZER LAW

A person may not apply fertilizer containing phosphorus to turf unless:

1. A tissue or soil test performed within the last three years indicates a deficiency of P

2. Establishing turfgrass via seed or sod (first year)

3. Used on a golf course under the direction of a person who has participated in an ongoing phosphorus training program

4. Sod is being grown on a sod farm for sale

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Just by way of review: The Minnesota Phosphorus Fertilizer Law states: A person may not apply fertilizer containing phosphorus to turfgrass, with three exceptions: A tissue or soil test performed within the last three years indicates a deficiency of phosphorus Establishing turfgrass via seed or sod, for the first year, includes use during renovation when overseeding is being done Used on a golf course under the directions of a person who has participated in an ongoing phosphorus use training program

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HOW MUCH WATER DOES TURF NEED?

0.5”/week 1.0”/week 2”/week

DEPENDS!!!!

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VARIABLES TO CONSIDER FOR IRRIGATION

Environmental conditions (ET)– Temperature, wind speed, rainfall, humidity, etc.

Function and expectations Grass species and variety Soil type and organic matter

– Sand = less water holding, high infiltration– Clay = greater water holding, low infiltration

Present turf conditions– Compacted– Seasonal weather fluctuations

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Variables to consider for irrigation include: Grass species and variety. Growth habit, growth rate, and rooting depth vary greatly between species and all effect water use rate. General drought tolerance by species: fine fescues > Kentucky bluegrass > perennial ryegrass Soil type. Sandy soils have high infiltration, rapid drainage, and low water holding capacity. The opposite is true for clay soils or soils high in organic matter. Environmental conditions. Factors like temperature, wind speed, rainfall, relative humidity, and many others contribute to the amount of water that needs to be applied. Desired lawn quality. This one is really pretty simple; if your lawn is Kentucky bluegrass and you want it to be green year round, then you are generally going to have to water it. If you can tolerate brown or dormant turf during the middle of the summer irrigation can be reduced. Note: some drought tolerant turf species have the potential to be green year round without irrigation, depending on the year. On average turf requires 1 to 1.5” of water per week (approximately 5” of wet soil depth, depending on soil type). This can come from rainfall, irrigation, or a combination of both (620 gallons is required to apply 1” of water to 1000ft²).

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Root Training- allow soils to dry to near wilt before the next cycle

deep &infrequent watering encourages root growth

shallow &frequent watering trains the grass to require that

Irrigation Frequency

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Another important cultural practice is that of watering a lawn. One of the most frequently asked questions by homeowners is: So, what is the proper way to water a lawn? Everyday with little amounts, or less frequent with larger amounts? The effects of a deep and infrequent watering cycle, meaning, applying larger amounts of water in less frequent intervals, encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, actively seeking out water. Roots extract water from shallower depths first, then increasingly deeper. This deep and infrequent watering practice is sometimes called root conditioning. It is done most effectively in the spring and fall during active growth by allowing soils to dry to near the wilting point between watering cycles. These periods of active root growth result in a larger root mass occupying a larger soil volume and therefore have greater access to other, deeper soil water reserves. As root systems are naturally shallower during the summer months, watering can be done on a more frequent basis with smaller amounts of water applied per time. Nonetheless, some drying should be allowed between watering cycles. Constantly moist to wet conditions should be avoided as they do not encourage deeper rooting and can be a trigger for some serious turfgrass diseases to get started. If there is an extended interruption with this latter irrigation schedule, grass plants can be left very vulnerable to damage or even death from high temperatures and dry conditions during that interrupted period. Likewise, excessively wet conditions should be avoided in the spring and fall because constantly wet soil conditions in the upper few inches does not encourage roots to grow to greater depths even though these are potentially very active periods of root growth. Excessively wet conditions will negate the effects of higher mowing heights which tend to also encourage deeper more robust root systems. Soils constantly saturated with water will also be more prone to runoff as water infiltration rates will be very low in water saturated soil conditions.

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IRRIGATION TIMING Irrigate in early morning if possible. During

breakfast or before you leave for work. – Daytime irrigation is less efficient Evaporation losses Wind

– Late afternoon to late evening irrigation can increase the incidence of certain turfgrassdiseases, weeds, and promote succulence

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Timing of irrigation is very important in terms of water conservation and overall turfgrass health. It is best to water in the early morning if possible. Midday irrigation is less efficient because large amounts of water can be lost through evaporation and wind can affect irrigation coverage. A very light daytime irrigation known as syringing might be necessary during high summer temperatures to cool the plant. The amount of moisture applied is less than 0.10 inch. Note this is not a regular irrigation allotment of water; only a light application of water to cool the plant and prevent potentially damaging heat build-up in the plant. Irrigation from late afternoon into the late evening hours can leave a film of moisture on the turfgrass blade that may be very slow to evaporate. This film of moisture can significantly increase the incidence of certain diseases. Irrigating at night (very early morning hours to about sunrise) can be O.K. as the watering flushes the leaf surface and discourages certain diseases from getting started. Leaf surfaces will dry quickly after sunrise leaving insufficient time for most disease organisms to get established.

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Soil Management

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SOIL IS THE FOUNDATION FOR LAWNS Moisture holding Nutrient retention Aeration Stability Rooting Biological activity

healthy soil = healthy lawn

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Always determine the cause of a poor lawn

Compacted soil

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SOIL AERIFICATION Why?

– Soil compaction*

– Soil layering*

– Thatch buildup*

– Prepare for renovation

*These conditions can interfere with adequate water movement into the soil, drainage of water through the soil profile, adequate oxygen in the soil, and/or root growth

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Why cultivate? There are four main conditions that determine if a lawn needs to be cultivated: Compacted soils Soil layering Excessive thatch buildup Preparing for renovation (renovation is discussed in the “Cultivation and Renovation” section of this developmental resource) Turfgrass growing under these conditions has problems associated with: Water infiltration and drainage Oxygen availability in the soil Poor root growth Increased weed encroachment and disease proneness Timing of cultivation should be concentrated in either the spring or fall months when the turf is actively growing. Cultivating turf that is under stress will only increase that amount of stress that is put on the grass plant.

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THATCH ?Living and dead organic debris just below

the living turfgrass canopy and above the soil line

– Roots– Stolons– Rhizomes– Crowns

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Thatch can be a main contributor lawn decline. What is thatch? Thatch is the layer of living and dead organic material just below the living turfgrass canopy and above the soil line. (CLICK) Contributions to this thatch layer are made in the form of roots, stolons, rhizomes, and crowns. Turfgrass clippings are actually broken down rather quickly and contribute very little to the thatch layer. A thatch layer of 1/2” is a beneficial buffer of weather extremes and provides some resiliency to a lawn surface. However, a thicker thatch layer can cause significant lawn decline. Reduction in thatch can be accomplished by vertical mowing and/or aerification; best times for those operations are early spring or late summer into fall

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DETHATCHING Removing thatch with blades that cut into it and pull it out:

– Rarely necessary- compacted soils, excessive moisture and fertility

– Best practiced in the fall Confusion between dethatching and spring machine raking

Dethatching Machine rake

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Weed Management

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www.extension.umn.edu/garden

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EXAMPLES OF INDICATOR WEEDS FOR POOR CONDITIONS AND MICROCLIMATES Compacted soils- annual bluegrass, prostrate

knotweed, broadleaf plantain, pineapple weed Low nitrogen- white clover, black medic, trefoil Poor drainage- sedges, annual bluegrass High pH- plantains Surface moisture- moss, algae Low mowing, moist- chickweeds, annual bluegrass Dry areas- prostrate spurge, yarrow, black medic, yellow

woodsorrel Shade- ground ivy, violets, chickweed New seeding- pigweed, lambsquarters, shepherd’s

purse

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Home lawn weed invasions can often be attributed to some type of poor site or soil condition. Here are some examples of indicator weeds for certain site and/or soil conditions. Correcting these conditions will encourage better turfgrass competition with each specific weed.

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Weeds commonto compacted soils

Knotweed

Broadleaf plantain

Pineapple weed

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HERBICIDE SELECTION BASED ON TIMING OF APPLICATION Preplant- applied prior to seeding or sodding;

directed at controlling all existing vegetation

Preemergence- applied as a barrier prior to weed seedlings emerging from the ground; most effective with annual weeds

Postemergence- applied to weeds that have germinated and are actively growing; juvenile plants are generally easier to control than more mature plants

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Herbicides based on timing of application include: Preplant herbicides- are applied prior to seeding or sodding to control all existing vegetation. Round-up (glyphosate) is a very common herbicide in this category. Preemergence herbicides- form a “barrier” in the soil such that weed seedlings are destroyed prior to emerging from the ground. They do not prevent seed germination. They are most effective at controlling annual weed seeds that germinate at specific times of the year. Timing is crucial with these types of herbicides. Postemergence herbicides- are applied to weeds that have germinated, emerged from the ground and are actively growing. Young plants are generally more susceptible to these types of herbicides than mature plants. 2, 4-D is a very common postemergence herbicide used to control broadleaf weeds.

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SELECTION BASED ON HERBICIDE SELECTIVITY Selective herbicides have the ability to control or

suppress one to several weed species while having little impact on the desirable species

Example:– Broadleaf control in cool season turf

Nonselective herbicides have the capacity to control all plants to which the herbicide is applied.

Example:– Removing all vegetation prior to seeding or sodding

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Selection of herbicides based on selectivity Selective herbicides have the ability to control or suppress one to several weed species while having little impact on the desirable species Example: broadleaf weed control in cool season turfgrasses Non-selective herbicides will control all plants to which the herbicide is applied Example: Removing all vegetation prior to seeding or sodding

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What about weed and feed products?

Advantages DisadvantagesConvenient Timing differencesEffective May apply more herbicide

than needed

Presenter

Presentation Notes

For many people, weed and feed products are a convenient and effective way of providing nutrients to the lawn as well as doing some weed control. Weed and feed products exist for both broadleaf and annual weedy grass control. Actually, most commercially applied lawn care treatments would be considered weed and feed treatments as they contain both fertilizer and weed control products. At certain times of the year, weed and feed products can create some problems with respect to timing of applications. For example, a fertilizer application may be desired around the end of August but your perennial broadleaf weed control could be much better if applied a month later. In that case, using a fertilizer separately from the weed control product would solve that problem. Nonetheless, the first spring application of fertilizer might coincide nicely with a herbicide application for crabgrass control. In this instance a weed and feed product could be an appropriate choice. Since the entire lawn receives both fertilizer and herbicide, there is a concern that a lot more herbicide is being put down than is needed or will even be effective. This would be especially true where there are only a few scattered broadleaf weeds or limited areas of annual weedy grass invasion. Hence, a weed and feed product can significantly over apply the amount of herbicide needed.

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Common selective, systemic, postemergenceherbicides available in homeowner formulationsfor use on home lawns:

For broadleaf control:2,4-DMecoprop (MCPP)DicambaTriclopyrSulfentrazoneQuinclorac

Presenter

Presentation Notes

There are many homeowner weed control formulations available. Most home lawn weed control products do a good job of killing the targeted weeds. This chart lists several of the most commonly used herbicides that are blended together in homeowner available lawn weed control products. You can check the product label for the active ingredients that are contained in any particular formulation. Remember, it is your job to know what weeds are present and if they are at levels where control with an herbicide is needed. If a herbicide will be used, remember to always follow label directions exactly for proper use and disposal.

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Some common perennial grassy weeds that are best controlled nonselectively in lawns.

Examples of perennial weedy grasses:QuackgrassBrome grassTall fescueCreeping bentgrassRoughstalk bluegrass

Note that reseeding or resodding will be necessary following applications.

Presenter

Presentation Notes

Unfortunately, there are no selective controls for removing cool season perennial grasses from other cool season perennial grasses. Therefore, control of the above mentioned grasses all require non-selective control followed by some form of reseeding or resodding to repair the damaged areas. It should be noted that tall fescue, creeping bentgrass and roughstalk bluegrass (Poa trivialis), are all forms of turfgrasses in one setting or another. Nonetheless, when they become undesirable or unwanted in an otherwise Kentucky bluegrass lawn for example, controlling their spread may become necessary. When choosing a non-selective herbicide, pay particular attention to how long after application you can do reseeding or resodding. For example, some recent formulations of Round-up also include a preemergence herbicide which would preclude any over seeding for quite some time or even into the next growing season. The labels of various products will provide information regarding reestablishment of turfgrasses in the treated areas.

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REDUCING HERBICIDE USE IN HOME LAWNS

Note indicator weeds and monitor invasion potential-remedy situations culturally

Employ good cultural practices so as not to encourage weed invasion (e.g. higher mowing heights)

Determine thresholds for weed acceptance (determine priority locations – not treat everywhere)

Spot treatment vs. ‘blanket’ applications (treat by area not whole lawn, e.g. crabgrass along curb edges)

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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION UMN Turfgrass Science Website: www.turf.umn.edu UMN Extension Turfgrass Management Website:

www.extension.umn.edu/turfgrass Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series:

www.sustland.umn.eduYard and Garden Info: Facebook: “University of Minnesota Yard and Garden” Twitter: @urbanturfmn and @UMNyardgarden Blog: http://blog.lib.umn.edu/efans/ygnews/Smart Gardens Radio Show WCCO AM830, Saturdays 8-9am

Sam contact: 763-767-3518, [email protected], twitter = @urbanturfmn

http://www.turf.umn.edu/

http://www.extension.umn.edu/turfgrass

http://www.sustland.umn.edu/

http://blog.lib.umn.edu/efans/ygnews/

mailto:[email protected]

Fall Lawn Care - University of Minnesota · Perennial ryegrass is often mixed with Kentucky...

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