Facing the Unexpected in Great Expectations Caveexplore.mohodisco.com/greatex.pdfGreat Expectations...
6
8 NSS NewS, December 2009 DISCLAIMER: Great Expectations is an NSS-owned alpine cave in Wyoming. It is not for the beginner. It is a very chal- lenging cave requiring a lengthy time commitment and containing vertical drops (negotiable only via single-rope technique), deep pools, waterfalls, strong currents, low air spaces, and dangerously cold temperatures. Do not attempt to visit this cave unless you have the proper experience and equipment, and have consulted NSS member Bob Montgomery for a permit and key. Great Expectations Cave. I had wanted to go since Ben Sainsbury told me about his trip there in 2005. His description sealed it: The deepest through-trip in the lower 48 states at 1400 vertical feet from upper entrance to lower entrance, 5 miles of walk- ing, 7 rappels, 38 degree F temperatures (air and water), lots of swimming, and a nasty 2000-foot-long water crawl at the end. I had tried numerous times to get onto trips going through the cave over recent years, but school or work always got in the way. Out of the blue I emailed Jason Ballensky, the apparent locus of recent Great Ex activ- ity, to see if he was going this year, and as luck would have it a group of cavers from TAG had already persuaded him to do a trip. When I e-mailed him, he replied and said that he had planned to ask me if I wanted to go. Bob Montgomery, the NSS contact for Great Ex, had mentioned to Jason that summer in Wyoming had been wet, and to expect more water than usual. However, the official Great Ex management plan states that “The ideal time frames in which to visit the cave are from mid to late summer and in early fall, when the potential for flooding is low, even during thunderstorms,” so we felt confident that the water levels would be manageable. A few days before the trip was supposed to happen, Jason sent an e-mail to the group with a link to a really crappy weather forecast predicting both rain and snow for the weekend. This was eerily remi- niscent of a really nasty time I had attempting to cave in Utah a few years ago—a beautiful summer had turned into a rainy, then freezy, then full-on spindrift blizzardy weekend before my very eyes and had dramatically changed the planned course of events. So I hopped a flight out of San Francisco hoping not to have a repeat of that. My connection in Denver was very tight, so I had to run to the next flight, which connected to Worland, WY. Once on the plane I unexpectedly sat right in front of Jason,so we talked caving and got reacquainted as I hadn’t seen him in about 5 years. After landing in Worland, we were greeted by most of our group. Shane Snyder, Mike Greene and Chad Ellis flew in from TAG; I had caved with Shane once like 10 years ago, but had never met Mike or Chad before. Willie Hunt, a regular caving buddy of mine, drove all the way from Southern California in his F250 loaded with tons of gear, and was my ride for the weekend. The pit of my stomach started to sink with each passing second as my bag did not show up at the baggage claim. This bag contained all of my cave gear and food, so the bad omen that had started with the weather report had now continued with my luggage. I exchanged phone numbers with the lady in charge with a promise from her to get to the bottom of things, and we all took off in three vehicles for a 2-hour drive out into the woods to our campsite. The paved portion of the drive was uneventful, with the exception of the light rain sprinkles that had started. The second half of the drive was on a windy, muddy road that was probably only suitable for 4wd vehicles in those conditions. Everybody had 4wd except for Chad, who was driving a regular car. We had just about reached the campsite when he scraped bottom hard on a rock. He rolled down the window and smelled hot oil. Getting out, there was a 15-foot- long trail of oil behind the car—the oil pan had ruptured. Yet another bad omen. Chad pulled the car off to the side of the road and left it there for the remainder of the weekend. Arriving at camp, we found Doug Warner, a caver buddy of mine from Montana, who completed the group. We set up tents (I borrowed one fromWillie) and went to bed. Then the rain really started. A raucous thunderstorm came in and poured on the campsite for hours, repeatedly waking all of us up. The next morning I woke up to a very wet tent, but somehow my sleeping bag was totally dry. I had to variously mooch clothes, cups, and stoves from people to get through the morning. The plan for the day was to check out the lower entrance of the cave and make sure it was passable so we could get out the next day. We piled into three 4wd Willie, Mike, Jason, Doug, Shane, Chad at the lower entrance Bruce on the hike to the lower entrance Facing the Unexpected in Great Expectations Cave Bruce White with guidance from Jason Ballensky, Doug Warner, Mike Greene, and Shane Snyder Photos by Bruce White unless credited otherwise
Transcript of Facing the Unexpected in Great Expectations Caveexplore.mohodisco.com/greatex.pdfGreat Expectations...
8 NSS NewS,December2009
DISCLAIMER: Great Expectations is an NSS-owned alpine cave in Wyoming. It is not for the beginner. It is a very chal-lenging cave requiring a lengthy time commitment and containing vertical drops (negotiable only via single-rope technique), deep pools, waterfalls, strong currents, low air spaces, and dangerously cold temperatures. Do not attempt to visit this cave unless you have the proper experience and equipment, and have consulted NSS member Bob Montgomery for a permit and key.
GreatExpectationsCave.IhadwantedtogosinceBenSainsburytoldmeabouthistriptherein2005.Hisdescriptionsealedit:Thedeepest through-trip inthe lower48statesat1400verticalfeetfromupperentrancetolowerentrance,5milesofwalk-ing,7rappels,38degreeFtemperatures(airandwater), lotsofswimming,andanasty2000-foot-longwatercrawlat theend. Ihadtriednumeroustimestogetontotripsgoingthroughthecaveoverrecentyears,butschoolorworkalwaysgotintheway.OutoftheblueIemailedJasonBallensky,theapparentlocusofrecentGreatExactiv-ity,toseeifhewasgoingthisyear,andasluckwouldhaveitagroupofcaversfromTAGhadalreadypersuadedhimtodoatrip.WhenIe-mailedhim,herepliedandsaidthathehadplannedtoaskmeifIwantedtogo.
BobMontgomery, theNSScontactforGreatEx,hadmentionedtoJasonthatsummerinWyominghadbeenwet,andtoexpectmorewaterthanusual.However,theofficialGreatExmanagementplanstates
that“Theidealtimeframesinwhichtovisitthecavearefrommidtolatesummerandinearlyfall,whenthepotentialforfloodingislow,evenduringthunderstorms,”sowefeltconfidentthatthewaterlevelswouldbemanageable.Afewdaysbeforethetripwassupposedtohappen,Jasonsentane-mailtothegroupwithalinktoareallycrappyweatherforecastpredictingbothrainandsnowfortheweekend.Thiswaseerilyremi-niscentofareallynastytimeIhadattemptingtocaveinUtahafewyearsago—abeautifulsummerhadturnedintoarainy,thenfreezy,then full-onspindriftblizzardyweekendbeforemyveryeyesandhaddramaticallychangedtheplannedcourseofevents.SoIhoppedaflightoutofSanFranciscohopingnottohavearepeatofthat.
Myconnection inDenverwasverytight, so Ihad torun to thenext flight,whichconnectedtoWorland,WY.Onceon theplane Iunexpectedlysat right infrontofJason,sowetalkedcavingandgotreacquaintedasIhadn’tseenhiminabout5years.AfterlandinginWorland,weweregreetedbymostofourgroup.ShaneSnyder,MikeGreeneandChadEllisflewinfromTAG;IhadcavedwithShaneoncelike10yearsago,buthadnevermetMikeorChadbefore.WillieHunt,aregularcavingbuddyofmine,droveallthewayfromSouthernCaliforniainhisF250loadedwithtonsofgear,andwasmyridefortheweekend.Thepitofmystomachstartedtosinkwitheachpassingsecondasmybagdidnotshowupatthebaggageclaim.Thisbagcontainedallofmycavegearandfood,sothebadomenthathadstartedwiththeweatherreporthad
nowcontinuedwithmyluggage.Iexchangedphonenumberswiththeladyinchargewithapromisefromhertogettothebottomofthings,andwealltookoffinthreevehiclesfora2-hourdriveoutintothewoodstoourcampsite.
Thepavedportionof thedrivewasuneventful,withtheexceptionofthelightrainsprinklesthathadstarted.Thesecondhalfof thedrivewasonawindy,muddyroadthatwasprobablyonlysuitablefor4wdvehiclesinthoseconditions.Everybodyhad4wdexceptforChad,whowasdrivingaregularcar.Wehadjustaboutreachedthecampsitewhenhescrapedbottomhardonarock.Herolleddownthewindowandsmelledhotoil.Gettingout, therewasa15-foot-longtrailofoilbehindthecar—theoilpanhadruptured.Yetanotherbadomen.Chadpulledthecarofftothesideoftheroadandleftittherefortheremainderoftheweekend.Arrivingatcamp,wefoundDougWarner,acaverbuddyofminefromMontana,whocompletedthegroup.Wesetuptents(IborrowedonefromWillie)andwenttobed.Thentherainreallystarted.Araucousthunderstormcameinandpouredonthecampsiteforhours,repeatedlywakingallofusup.
ThenextmorningIwokeuptoaverywettent,butsomehowmysleepingbagwastotallydry.Ihadtovariouslymoochclothes,cups,andstovesfrompeopletogetthroughthemorning.Theplanforthedaywastocheckoutthelowerentranceofthecaveandmakesureitwaspassablesowecouldgetoutthenextday.Wepiledintothree4wd
Willie, Mike, Jason, Doug, Shane, Chad at the lower entrance Bruce on the hike to the lower entrance
Facing the Unexpected in Great Expectations CaveBruce White
with guidance from Jason Ballensky, Doug Warner, Mike Greene, and Shane SnyderPhotos by Bruce White unless credited otherwise
NSS NewS,December2009 9
vehicles,nowincludingDoug’s,andsetoffoversomeverymuddy4wdroads.Duringoneespeciallysteepandsleazysection,Williedecidedthatifhedroveanyfurtherhewouldn’tbeabletogetbackout.Soheputitinreverseandparkedbackuponthehillbehindus.HeandIwalkedalongtheroadandcaughtupwiththeothervehiclesthathadnowmadeitacrossavalleyandupontothehillontheotherside.WepiledintoShane’sSuburbanandcontinued totheparkingspot.Onthewaythere,ShanelamentedthatheshouldhavealsolefthisvehiclewhereWilliedidandwasnotlookingforwardtothedriveback.BythistimetheonlyshoesandclothesthatIhad,whichIhadplannedonwearingontheplanehome,werecompletelysoakedandcoveredinmud.
Thehiketothecavewasbeautifulwithmorethanatouchofmisery. Itwasveryfoggyandsprinkledmostofthetime,andtheroutewetookdownintothevalleycoveredabout1.5milesand1000verticalfeet.Wewentthroughnumerousoldclearcutswithlotsofslipperyrottingwood.EventuallywecametothestreaminthevalleyfloorandfollowedittothelowerentranceofGreatEx,akatheGreatExit.Jasoncommentedthatthestream,nowquiteswollen,hadbeen
dryonhisprevioustrips.Jasonenteredthecavetomakesuretheroutewaspassableand thatwater levelswerenormal.Hequicklyreturnedandreportedthatsomerockshadmovedandtheresultingsqueezewascertainlytootightforeveryoneinthegroup to fit through.Healsocouldnotconclusivelytellwhetherthewaterlevelsinthegrimcrawlwerehighenoughtosumpitshut.Tobypassthesqueeze,wecheckedoutanalternatesandcrawlroute,butitwassiltedshut.Jason,ShaneandIdugonthisforthenexthourortwoandeventuallymadeavoiceandlightconnection,butwenevergotitlargeenoughtofitthrough.MikeandChadmadeafireoutsideandweallgatheredaroundittodiscussoptions.ItwasgettinglateinthedayandIstillhadtogobacktoWorlandtopickupmybag,assumingithadevenarrived.Andifwedidn’tgetthatlowerentrancedugout,nobodywasgoingallthewaythroughthecave.Ontopofthat,wedidn’tknowforsureifthewaterwashighenoughtocloseoffthepassage.Theideaofabandoningthetriptodoadifferentbutlessspectacularcavewassuggested.OrperhapswewouldexploreGreatExfromthetop,seeonlypartofthecave,andexitthewaywecamein.MyopinionwasthatifIwasgoingtodoGreatEx,itwouldbeathroughtrip,otherwiseIwouldratherdoadifferentcave.Itstartedtorainharder,andwillpowerwaslost.Variousfolksstatedthenandtherethattheyhadalreadydecidedtheydidn’twanttodothethroughtrip,whatwithallthebadomenspilingup.Wehadthetimeandenergyforonelastdig.Miraculously,ChadandMikemanagedtofindandenlargeanotheralternatesqueezerouteenoughthateveryoneinthegroupcouldfit.Wethenfoundaneasiergametrailbackupthehilltothecars.Luckily,bothvehiclesmadeitbackacrossthesteepmuddyvalleytowherewehadleftWillie’struck,butnotwithoutalittle
suspense—wehadtogetoutoftheSuburbanandwatchShanespinthetiresanddriveitnearlysidewaystogetupthehill.
Imanagedtofinallygetreceptionoutthereandtalktothe ladyattheWorlandAirport—mybagwouldbearrivingat6:30pmthatnight.DougandIdrovebackintoWorlandand thebagwas there—thankgoodness!Iprobablycouldhavedonethecaveborrowingother folks’ gear,but Ireallydidn’twantto.Backatcamp,Jason,MikeandShanemadetheshorthiketotheentranceofGreatExtocheckoutthewaterlevelenteringthecave.Thethreehadafrankdiscussionaboutthewateranditspossibleeffectsontheimpendingtrip.Theynotedaspotinthecreekbedforfuturereferenceasanindicatorofrisingorloweringwaterlevels.Theydecidedthatifitwasrainingthenextmorning,evenlookedlikerain,orthe
Willie’s snow-collapsed gear tent
Group photo in the lunch room (Willie, Mike, Shane, Bruce, Doug, Chad, Jason)
Jason and Bruce in the Great Hall
Chad
Ellis
Just inside the upper entrance
10 NSS NewS,December2009
watermarkwasnoticeablyunderwater,thetripwouldbeoff.BythetimeDougandIreturnedtocamp,everyonewasasleepandsnowwascoveringeverything.
Thenextdaywewokeuptoabeautifulsunnymorning.ThehugetentthatWilliehadsetupforgearstoragehadcollapsedduringthenight.Itwasstillcoldandthesnowwasnotmelting,but theclearskyandbrightsunrejuvenatedeveryoneanditwasquicklyagreedthatweweregoingintothecave.Fourofuswoulddothethroughtrip,andtheotherthreewouldgoinasfarasthelunchroom,thenturnaroundandexitthewaywecamein.Thiswasdecidedduetoacombi-nationofcomplexvehicleparkinglogistics,workweeksleepdeprivation,hypothermia
concerns,deadrentalcarreturntimes,andthefactthata7-personthrough-tripwasgoingtotakeareallylongtime.
Theupperentrance to thecave,at8500’elevation,wasonly300yardsfromthecampsite,sowegearedupandheadedin.Althoughhehadbeentherethreetimespreviously(onceallthewaythrough),thiswasJason’sfirsttimeleadingatriptoGreatEx.Assuch,hewasarmedwithmapprint-outsandroutefinding/rope lengthnotesfromvarious individuals.Withtheexcep-tionofoneclimbdownwithsomeheavysprayfromawaterfall,thefirstsectionofthecavewasdry.Wehadtodoalittlebitofroutefinding,butthetriptookusthroughthemassiveandbeautifulGreatHall,downashortropedrop,throughsomeveryniceformations,andintoalargechambercalledtheThetaRoom.Justbeyond,westoppedattheLunchRoomandate.
Herethegroupsplitup.Doug,Willie,andChadexitedthesamewaywecameinfora6-hourtrip.ThreegrazingMoosegreetedthemwhentheyemerged.Acoupleofropedrops,thelargest50’,tookJason,Shane,MikeandmyselfdowntotheleveloftheLostWorlandRiver.Thisiswherethecavereallygotinteresting—fortherestofthetripwewouldfollowthismassiveunder-groundriver.Onceeverybodywasdown,Jasonsaid“Alright,youguysreadytodothisthing??”andimmediatelyjumpedintoapooloverhisheadandstartedswimmingdownstream.Wefollowed.ThefirstthingInoticedwasthatthecurrentwasverystrong.Ididn’treallyhavetopaddleinanyofthepoolsasthewaterwouldjustpullmealong,sometimestothesideintoeddysthattooksomeefforttogetoutof,andIhadtobracemyselfatthetopofmanyofthecascadesandwaterfallstokeepfrombeingsuckedover.Thecharacterofthepassagewasadeeptansculpteddolomitewithbeautifulblackchert/manganeseshelvesevery10verticalfeetorsoupthewalls,interruptedoftenbywaterfallsofallsizes.Generally,thepassageaveragedperhaps40feethighand15feetwide,althoughthisvariedtoprobablyashighas100feetandaslowassumped(requiringabypassroute).Thenextfewhourswereabsoluteblissandmyfavoritekindofcaving.Wetandsplashywithpositively-mudlessrapids,waterfalls,climbs,plungepools,andintermittentropedrops.Iwashootingandholleringandhavingagreattime.Wewereallwearingwetsuitsat least7mmthick,coveredwithvariousabrasion-resistant(orsowethought)clothingtoprotectagainstthesharpdolomite.For95%ofthetripIwastoastywarm,oftentoohot,eventhoughwewereswimmingin38oFwater.
All theropedrops in thecavewerealreadyrigged,withtheexceptionofthewetdropswhereanyropesleftwouldbeshred-dedbythepoundingwaterinaveryshorttime.Jasonhadbroughtasingle100-footpieceof rope.At the firstwetdrop,hejudgedtheropelength,cutitwithaknife,andrigged.Thisthingwasawesome—a30’rappelnexttoanabsolutelyevil,poundingfalls.Atthebottomwehadtorappelofftheendoftheropeandintoaroilingpooloverourheads,thencontinueswimmingdownthepassage.Toocool!Wecametothetopofa10-footwaterfallandJasonimmediatelyclimbeddownitlikeitwasnobigdeal.Therestofuswatchedwide-eyedanddecidedtherewasnowayweweregoingtoclimbthat.ItwasatthispointthatwestartedtounderstandsomethingaboutJason:heisfearless.Soweriggedtheremainingropewe
Mike and Shane in the wet section
Jason about to rig the scary 20’ falls
Mike in the wet section
Jason looking up the maelstrom of the scary water section
NSS NewS,December2009 11
hadandMikerappelledit.Nearthebottomhewasabsolutelyengulfedinthewater,onlytoreappearsecondslaterintheplungepoolatthebottom.Shanedidthesame,andgaveusthewilliesbystayingunderthefallsandflailingforafewlongseconds.Ireriggedtheropeoutofthefalls,rightdowntherouteJasonhasclimbed.AsIrappelled,Irealizedjusthoweasytheclimbactuallywas.Thisthemewouldrepeat—havingbeentherebefore,Jason’s familiaritywith thecaveandoverallfearlessnessgavehimamuchhigherrisktolerancethantherestofus.ForShane,Mikeandmyself, thiswasanunfamiliarcaveinwhichfatalhypothermiawouldswiftlycomewithonemistake,soourrisktolerancewasverylow.Climbsthatwenormallywouldhavenoproblemwith
suddenlybecametooriskybecauseofthenatureofthecave.BecauseofthisJasonoftenpushedourcomfortlevelonthistrip,andIamsurethatweappearedtobeoverlycautioustohim.
Afterrappellingtheshortfalls,Jasonderiggedtheropeandclimbedbackdownwithitsowecouldrappelthenextdrop.Weallstill feltverygoodandenergetic.ThatwouldchangeasweencounteredoneofthemostintimidatingcavepassagesIhaveeverbeenin.Thewatercurrentquicklybecamemuchstronger,andwesoonfoundourselvesclimbingdownnexttoaseriesofseriouslymalevolentrapidsandwaterfalls.Thesectionstartedwitha6-foot-highclimbable fallsfollowedbyaseriesofviolentlyswirlingfrothypools.Fromtherethewaterexplodedoutovera20-footfalls intoanotherroil-ingpool,overanother10-footfallsintoyetanotherpool,thenoverafinal5-footfallsintoabigpoolthatwascalmatthefarend.Ireallycannotdescribethefullpowerofthewaterhere,itwasabsolutelyjaw-dropping.Needlesstosay,ifyoufell intothewater,youwerealmostcertainlydead.Ifyoudidn’tdrownintherapidsfirst,you’dbepulledoverthefallsinstantly.Wehadtosticktoasmallslopingledgetotherightsideofthepassagetokeepfromfallingin.ItwasherethatJasonannouncedthatyes,thewaterwasdefinitelyhigherthanhe’deverseenit.Thisplantedasmallseedofanxietyinmymindthatthegrimcrawlattheendmightbesumpedshut.ItwasalsoherethatMikeconfided“Man,thisscaresme.”
Jason tiedoff the ropeand slowlyinchedouttotheedgeofthe20-footfalls,riggedintotheboltsthere,andrappelledoutofsight.AminutelaterIsawhimreappearatthetopofthe10-footfallsbelow,stillonrope.Hestartedtherappel,andlookedconfusedforasecond.Thenheswungtohisrightabit, intothefalls,andsuddenlyhe looked likea fallenwaterskiierbeingdraggedbythetowropeathighspeed.Asecondlaterhedisappeareddownintothewaterfall.Hereappearedatthebottomandgavetheall-clear.Iwentnextandrappelledthe20-footfalls.Ihadtoholdtheropewithmyrighthandandgrabhandholdswithmylefttheentiretimetokeepmyselffromswingingdirectlyintothefullbruntofthefalls.Stillonrope,Itraversedtheplungepoolatthebaseofthe20-footfallsandpreparedtorappelthe10-footfallsbelow.Istarteddownandveryquicklynoticed,tomygreathorror,thatIwasshortrigged!Theropedidnotreachthebottom.Wehadcutoffalittlebittoomuchofitatthepreviousdrop.Theendwasonly5or6feetofftheground,butrappellingofftheendmeanttumblingrightintothemaelstromofthefalls.Iclungontothewalltotheleftofthefallslookingforfoot
andhandholdsthatwouldallowmetoclimbdown,buttherewasnothing.IturnedmyheadaroundandlookedacrosstheplungepoolandsawJasonwaswavingformetoswingintothefalls.Itwastheonlyoptionasitwouldallowforthegreatestamountofropelength.Iswungintothefallsandthefullforceofitimmediatelysmackedmerightonthechestandflippedmeoverbackwards.Ilostmygripontheropeandfelltothebottomofthefalls,back-first.Ilandedonmyback,insidethefalls,ontotherockyflooroftheplungepool.Luckily,IwaswearingaveryrobustandwaterproofSwaygopack,anditcushionedthefallverywell.IheartilyendorseSwaygo!Fromthatpointthecurrenttookmeandrolledmetwiceoutintotheplungepool.ImanagedtograbtheedgeofthepoolandstopmyselfbeforeIwentoverthefinal5-footfalls.Iemergedfromthepoolshaken,andamazedthatIwasn’thurtatall.ThefallsweresoloudthatIhadtobewithinafootofJason,yelling,totalktohim.Therewasnowaytocommunicatewiththoseaboveus,andascendingbackupalmostcertainlywouldhavebeenamoredangerousendeavor,requiringprolongedfull-submersioninbothwaterfalls.Mikecamedownnext,andthistimeJasoncrossedtheplungepoolandcoachedhimdown.Heswungintothefalls
Jason coaxes Mike down the short-rigged drop
Mike moments from being swallowed by a waterfall
Chad
Ellis
Jason takes a food break
High cliffs visible on the hike to the lower entrance
12 NSS NewS,December2009
inamorecrouchedpositionthanIdidandwasthrowndownintothepool,albeitmuchmoresafelythanIwas.Shanecamedownandinnovativelyswunghimselfallthewayacross,andthrough,thefallstotheothersidewhereheattemptedtoland.Healmostmadeit,butthenfellbackwardsintothepooljustatthebaseofthefalls.Ibreathedasighofreliefaftereveryonewasdownsafely.Butthatincidentsappedalittleofeverybody’sstrengthandconfidence.
Thetoneofthetripbecameabitmoreseriousafterthat.Theroutefromthatpointconsistedofanastyexposedstep-acrossmovebelowanoverhangand20feetoverrapidsbelow(atwhichpointIturnedtoMikeandsaid“this iswhatscaresme!”),followedbyafewhairy,steepclimbdowns.Thefinalpuckerwaswhenwemissedahighbypassrouteandcametothetopofasketchy8-footfalls.AtfirstJasonlookedforanalternateroute,butfindingnothingheattemptedtoclimbdownthefalls.Heslidovertheedgeonhisbutt,sortofclungtotherightwall,thenbouncedintothefalls.Hereappearedbelowandmouthed“it’snotthatbad.”Therestofuswerenotconvinced.Wehadonefinalpieceoftatteredhandlinethatwe’dfoundintheremainsofaropeleftbackatoneofthewetdrops.Wetiedthisoffandthethreeofuseasilyclimbeddown.
Fromherethecaveeasedup.Wespenthourswalkingpeacefullythroughwaist-deep,gorgeous,glassy-calmwaterpassagewith50-footceilings, incrediblebleach-whiteflowstoneandsodastraws,andhugeblack,vertical,free-standingchertfins.Afterawhilelonger,Jasontoldusthatthegrimcrawlwasonly1000feetaway,whichpeppedusup.Wecontinuedonandhadtoroutefindforawhilebeforewefiguredouttherightwayintothecrawl.Atthestartofthecrawlwestoppedandate.Jasonnotedthatthewaterwasalsohighhere,asanoverflowroutethathadbeendrybeforewasnowfilledwithwater.Thisdidnotmakemefeelbetter.Theprospectofheadingbackoutthewaywecameseemednearlyimpossible–itwouldhaverequiredverydifficultropeascentsand
climbsinallthewaterfallswehadalreadyencountered,andwouldeasilyhavetaken20incrediblyexhaustinghoursormore.Isaid“IthinkIhaveaholeinthebuttofmywetsuit”towhichMikereplied,“Ohyeah,youhaveforawhile.”Ihadn’tnoticed.Bummer,thatthingwasexpensive.Atthestartofthecave,thecharacterofthedolomitehadbeenroughandgrabbylikeverycoursesandpaper.Aswedescendeddeeper,thedolomitecontinuedtogetsharper.Now,inthelowerpartofthecave,someoftheboulderslookedverynearlyliketheywerecoveredinsharkteeth,orasShanedescribedit,“thousandsofsmallelephanttusks.”Everybody’souterlayerhadprettymuchshredded.Jason’scavesuithadbecomeaskirt.Thelowerlegsofthepantscoveringmywetsuitwereonlyheldinplacebymykneepads.
Westartedintothecrawl,notentirelysurethatitwouldn’tbesumpedtotheceil-ing.Thepassageitselfwasabout25feetwideand2feethigh,withabout8inchesofwaterinitflowingveryrapidly.Thefloorofthecrawlwascoveredindolomiterockhornsandbumps.Thehornseasilyandfrequentlycaughtonclothingandpackstraps.Wewent in feet firstand let thewatercarryusasmuchaspossible.Thecurrentwasstrongenoughthatthewaterwouldflowupandovermyshoulders,oftengettinginmyearsandface.Afterbeingwarmtheentiretrip,myhandsandfeetfinallywentnumb.Icouldfeeltherockmakingcontactwithmybuttthroughtheholeinmywetsuit,butitdidn’tfeellikeitwasleavingawound.Wemadesuretostickclosetogetherhere.Wewentthroughwhatwassupposedtobethelowestairspacesection;thankfully, itwaspassablewithonesideofthefacetouchingtheceilingandtheothersidedowninthewater.Thecrawlcontinuedforabout2hourswhensuddenlyweemergedintoahandsandkneescrawlway.Jasonboundedaheadandstartedhootingwithdelight.Wehadmadeit.Afewmoresqueezesthroughsomedirtandrocks,andwewereoutafter17hoursunderground.
Havingfeltenergeticformostofthetrip,thereliefofbeingoutofthecavegavewaytoutterexhaustion.Thehikebackupthehillinthedarkwasaslowdeathmarch,butwefinallymadeittothetopwhereDougandChadwerethoughtfullywaitinginDoug’struckwithfoodandwater(sparingusfromwalkingperhapsanother2milesfurthertoShane’sSuburban).Thesunstartedtocomeupaswedrovethe4wdroadbacktocamp.Igotabout3hoursofsleepbeforeitwastimetowakeupandpackthegear.Uponrising,IrealizedwhatawreckIwas.Everyjointached,allmymusclesweresore,Ihadcutsandbruiseseverywhere,andwhatIthought
wasaminorabrasiononmybuttturnedouttobeahuge5-inchdiameterraspberrythatlookedlikeIhadsatonastove.Itwouldbe4daysbeforeIcouldsitnormallyagain.AdaylaterathomeIdiscoveredthatIhadlost5pounds.Asofthiswriting,nearlythreeweekslater,bothShaneandMikearestillhavingfootnumbnessissuesfromthecoldwaterandpossiblepermanentnervedamage.
SowhatdidIthinkofthetrip?GreatExpectationsCaveisabsolutelyincredible.Atrueclassiccaveandatestforanyhardcorecaver.Inmytop5forsure.Comparableincaliber,butnotnecessarilydifficulty,tocaveslikeMainDrain,NeilsonsWell,orEllisonsCave.Inspiteofanydifficulties,Iwoulddefi-nitelydoitagain.NexttimeIwouldtake150feetofropetorigthewetdrops,100feetofsacrificialwebbingjustincasesomeoneisnotcomfortablewithaclimbandneedsahandline,andIwouldwearmuchmorerobustballisticnylonshortsasanouterlayer.Afewgenerallessonswerelearnedduringthecourseofthistrip,themostobviousbeingthatevenifbyallappearancesyouhavedoneyourhomeworkandarecompletelypreparedforatrip,unexpectedeventscananddostillhappenanyway,andtheirimpactissuddenandpotentiallydangerous.Thoseofuswhohavebeencavingforawhilewithnoincidentstendtoget lulledintoafalsesenseofsecurity,andthiscomplacencywilleventuallycatchuptousifwedon’tremindourselves tobeconstantlyvigilant.Thistripwasalsoareminderthat it isagoodideatowearyourascendinggearwhileonrappelevenifsomeoneelseappearstohavesuccessfullynegotiatedthedropbeforeyou,althoughthatmayormaynothavebeenofmuchbenefithere.
ThankstoJasonfor leadingthetrip,thankstoeveryoneinthegroupforbeinggreatguystocavewith,andthankstoWillie,DougandChadforallthesupportonthesurface. Iendeduphavingtowearblackrubberknee-highWelliesontheflighthomeastheyweremyonlydryshoes.
Chad
Ellis
Chad
Ellis
Mike GreeneChad Ellis
dec
emb
er 2
009
