1

Face Shapes and Frame Styling

Ed RobsonAccount Manager, Walman Optical Company

Frame Options

Face Shapes

2

Characteristics

• the face is longer than it is wide

• a narrow chin and cheeks

• a large forehead

Oblong Face

Look for

• Frames that break the length of the

face

• Deep frames minimize facial length

• Oversized styles and wrap arounds

Characteristics

full cheekbones and little to no

angles

width and length being similarly

proportionate.

Round Face

Look for

Frames that thin the face

Slightly angular frames create a

narrowing effect

Rectangle, square and retro

Characteristics

The chin being slightly narrower

than the forehead.

Ideal face shape

Oval Face

Look for:

Frames that fit face

Ideal face shape and not limited

as all frame styles will work

3

Characteristics

a broad forehead and strong

jawline

wide chin and cheekbones

Square Face

Look for:

Rounded or Jackie O styles

Cat eye. Semi-Rimless frames with

soft curves

Characteristics

Widest at the forehead and

taper down into a narrower

sometimes sharp looking chin.

Heart / Triangle Face

Look for:

Frames with oval or rectangle lenses

and thicker bottom halves do an

excellent job enhancing heart face

shapes because they help to balance

out the narrower lower half of the

face.

Characteristics

Unique and rare

Widest at the cheekbone and narrow

across hairline and jawline

Prominent cheekbones

Diamond Face

Look for:

Frames that show off cheekbones

Bolder frames

Look for top heavy frames

4

Opposites Attract: Play against facial

contours, so if you have angular features such

as prominent cheekbones and jawline, get

curvaceous with rounder frame shapes. This

diverts attention away from parts of your face

that may be a little too eye-catching—literally!

Striking Features

Just like make up, frame color can really give your eyes a lift.

Darker irises should be enhanced with brightly colored frames

Blue and green irises should match well with frame colors such as tortoise-shell, woody tones, and fun tones like purple and red.

Cool skin tones can wear bright colors.

Warm skin tones trend toward burgundy’s and warm tones.

Frame Color

Frame Personalities Casual

Trendy

Sport

Classy

5

Women

Keeps things simple

Likes small details & jewelry that goes with

everything

Men

Comfortable in t-shirts and jeans

Spends minimal time getting ready

CasualSuggested Eyewear

Women

Strong presence

Makes a statement with bold colors and

angles

Accessorizes head to toe

Men

Trendy, modern wardrobe

Wears bold, colorful clothing

Ahead of the fashion curve

TrendySuggested Eyewear

Women

Adventurous, energetic and athletic

Dresses for comfort with added style

Men

Enjoys an active lifestyle

Appreciates high performance

SportySuggested Eyewear

6

Women

Conservative, multi-functional attire

Well-rounded appearance

Men

Professional appearance, sharp but simple

look

Likes dress shirts and ties

Classy Suggested Eyewear

1 If you have a higher prescription, keep

the frame small so that eyes don't get

magnified

2 Narrow glasses with accentuated

corners and decoration details on the

front "slim down" wider faces.

Frame Size

1 Eyes should always be centered in the

frame—often, this is a matter of fitting but if

your patients nose tends to be flatter on the

top, you might need frames with more

height.

2 Glasses are hanging too low

Centration

7

Lens Decentration:

Applying your knowledge

Frame Fits Patient Frame Does Not Fit Patient

FACTS:

Frame: 54-20

Patient: PD 62

Frame PD 74

Patient PD 62

12

Divide by 2: 6mm decentration each eye

Calculating Frame Decentration

Formula:

(Frame PD – Patient PD)

2

“A” Horizontal frame measurement

“DBL” Distance between lenses

“ED” Effective diameter, typically diagonal

“B” Vertical measurement

“GC” Geometric center of frame

Half of A measurement and Half of B measurement written as

coordinate. Ex) 25x16

“DBC” (Frame PD)= A + DBL

Boxing system and basic parts

8

Complete the following for any frame in your tray:

“A”

“DBL”

“ED”

“B”

“GC”

“DBC”

Exercise #1

Using a patient PD of 64, determine the decentration for your

frame from Exercise 1:

Is this a good fit for your patient?

Exercise #2

Formula:

(Frame PD – Patient PD)

2

Saddle Bridge

Reduces the length of the bridge

Bridge Options

Ideal for:

Long noses

9

Keyhole Bridge

Provides comfort and fit options

Bridge Options

Ideal for:

Narrow and boney bridges

Proper Fit

Proper Fit

10

Proper Fit

1 Determine face shape

2 Determine frame style or frame features

3 Determine color

4 Style your partner in a frame that fits

their features and color scheme

Activity!

Wrap Frames curve around the front of a

patients head.

Wrap Frame categories: Sports frames,

Sunglasses, Style, and Safety

Uses for Wrap Frames: Athletics,

Motorcycle riding, Protection, etc

Wrap Frames

11

Wrap Frames

Wrap FrameWrap Angle from

15-22˚

Standard Frame

Wrap frames require some expert dispensing to guarantee best patient fit and satisfaction

When you try to put a standard flat lens into a wrap frame adjustment issues arise.

Wrap Frames

Frame Base Curve = 8 BCLens Base Curve = 8 BC

Frame Base Curve = 8 BCLens Base Curve = 6 or less BCUsing a Wrap Designed lens will eliminate this situation.

This allows you to put a 6 or less BC Rx into an 8 Base lens.

Frame Base Curve = 8 BCLens Base Curve = 8 BC

Frame Base Curve = 8 BCLens Base Curve = 6 or less BC

What is a wrap lens?

12

You now need to consider 3 base curves Frame base curve

Front curve of the frame Lens base curve

Front curve of the lens Prescription base curve

The recommended base curve based on the prescription

What is a wrap lens?

Wrap lenses should be ordered when the frame requires an 8 base lens to maintain the

integrity of the face form of the frame.

Sometimes wrap lenses should be ordered for frames that require a 6 base lens to

maintain the integrity of the face form of the frame.

If a 6 base curve is 2 bases higher or more than the recommended base for an Rx,

you should order a 6 base wrap lens. You now need to consider 3 base curves

What is a wrap lens?

Frame Base Curves

13

Lens Base Curves

+8.00 Base Curve +4.00 Base Curve

Front Curves

A Wrap Lens is a compensated lens for wrap designed frames Examples of Wrap Lenses are:

Shamir Attitude-compensated KBco Wrap Design-compensated Essilor Wrap-compensated Zeiss Wrap Power Sport NEW from Walman-compensated

The lab would calculate the Wrap Compensated Rx Notify the lab immediately on the order if the frame is a wrap design

Types of Wrap Lenses

Additional measurement for a wrap

compensated Rx.

If not specified then defaults will be

used:

Vertex Distance (14mm)

Pantoscopic Tilt (12˚)

Wrap Angle (15˚)

Measuring for a wrap lens

14

Rx Frame Size PD – Pupillary Distance Lens material – must be Polycarbonate or Trivex.

All of these together directly impact weight, comfort, and appearance of the

patient’s eyewear.

Considerations

The patient’s PD is critical.

To reduce lens thickness, the patients PD

should be centered in the frame as much

as possible.

Decentration occurs when the frame PD is

wider than the patient’s PD.

If the PD Is to decentered it can also

cause lens cut out issues.

Dress frame decentration is 2-3mm per

eye. Try to keep within 6-7mm per eye

for a wrap frame.

PD Placement

The lens thickness will increase when the decentration increases

How to calculate decentration:

Decentration = (Frame PD – Patient PD )÷2

1st Step: Frame PD = Frame Eye Size + DBL.2nd Step: Decentration = Frame PD – Patient PD ÷ 2

Example: Frame is 68 ▪16 and Patient PD is 631st Step: 68+16=84

2nd Step: (84 – 63)÷2 = 10.5*

*Decentration is well beyond the recommended 6-7mm

PD Placement

15

How to calculate decentration:

Decentration = (Frame PD – Patient PD )÷2

1st Step: Frame PD = Frame Eye Size + DBL.2nd Step: Decentration = Frame PD – Patient PD ÷ 2

Example: Frame is 62 ▪18 and Patient PD is 671st Step: 62+18=80

2nd Step: (80 – 67)÷2 = 6.5*

*This is a good fit for this patient

PD Placement

Frame Size and Rx

The size of the frame directly influences

the thickness of the lenses.

The thickest part of the nearsighted or

minus lens is on the outer edge.

Selecting a smaller frame will reduce

the overall lens thickness

Rx Considerations

Smaller Frame Size

Even when lenses can be made for the larger eye size, would the patient be happy with

the thickness of the lens.

Why should we consider how sensitive a patient is to change?

A wrap frame changes the angle of the lens in front of the patients eye and the base curve needed on wrap frames is most often a non standard base curve for the patient’s Rx.

Wrap lens designs were created to accommodate the non standard base curve and the increase in face form of wrap frames. They work well for most people.

However, if you know from past experience the patient is sensitive to base curve changes or struggles with every new prescription they get, they may not be a candidate for a wrap design.

Other Considerations

16

Wrap Frames sometimes require special edging… Shelf or Step Drill Rimless V-Bevel

Wrap Edges

Shelf Edging

Requires Poly or Trivex material

Additional charges from labs will

occur

A ring around the lens will appear

when the frame bevel is deeper on

the back of the frame then it is on

the front.

We cold mount every lens because

of the different lens materials. We

want to preserve the frame

Shelf or Step Edging

While it is very subtle there are some patients that wouldn’t like the appearance.