Fabric Studies - 1st Set

INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY KERALA

2012

Fabric Studies Handouts – for Diploma in Fashion Design – III Semester

Complied By : P.Lakshmana Kanth, Senior Faculty – IFTK

Fabric Studies

2 Diploma in Fashion Design – III Semester

1.0. Sewing Machine Needles In the apparel industry there are literally thousands of different sewing machines, each requiring a different needle type. Sewing machine needles are the most changeable part of your sewing machine and they can change how your machine forms stitches. Understanding how the parts of a sewing machine needle work will help you choose the correct size for the fabric and thread you are sewing. Understanding the sizing information on the needle packages will help you purchase the correct size. Functions of Sewing Machine Needles The functions of the sewing machine needle are: v To create a passage in the material for the thread to pass through. v To form a loop, which can be picked up by the hook, or looper, or a similar

mechanisms v To pass the needle thread through the loop form by the looper mechanisms on

the machines other than locked stitch.

1.1. Parts of Sewing machine Needle and their Functions

v Butt : the top end of the needle

v Shank: The upper circular part of the needle which is inserted in the needle bar

and is held by a set screw. It is usually larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for strength reasons.

v Shoulder: This section in between the shank and the blade.

v Blade : The long part of the needle between the shoulder and the eye

v Long Groove(S): The long groove runs down the length of the blade to provide a space so as to hold the thread along the blade while the needle pierces the material with minimum friction and to ensure that the thread does not get caught between the needle blade and the material when it passes through. The groove depth should be sufficient enough with respect to thread diameter used in needle.

v Short Groove(S): This is on the side of the eye facing the hook and extends a little above and below the eye to facilitate initial thread passage into the material and to assist in loop information. On needles with clearance cut it doesn’t exist.

v Eye: The hole extending through the needle blade from the long groove to the short groove. The shape of the inside top of the eye is critical; both in reducing thread damage during penetration of the material and in producing a good loop

Fabric Studies


information. Some needles may have a bulged eye, i.e, having a larger cross section at the eye than in order to reduce needle or fabric friction.

v Clearance: A recess across the whole face of the needle, above the eye, which can vary in shape and length. It permits a closer setting of the hook or looper to the needle to aid loop pick up and reduce skip stitching under difficult conditions.

v Point: The tapered end. It gives easy penetration of different materials and best appearance and less damage on the seams produced. It is often considered as the most critical aspect of the needle. The most common needles have a round point, a ball point, or a cutting point. Generally round points and ball points are used for woven and knit fabrics because they can penetrate the fabric by spreading the fibres or deflecting the yarns without damaging them. Needles with cutting points are used for leather.

v Tip: The part of the needle that pierces the material.

1.2. Needle Systems The needle system refers to the fitting measurements of the needle which enable it to be suited for a model/ type of machine. The dimensions / measurements generally stipulated are:

• The shank diameter of thickness • The needle length • The shank length

1.3. Needle Selection Once the needle system type is determined, the needle selection – its needle point and size – depends primarily on the characteristics of the fabric, but also on the thread, seam type and stitch type.

1.3.1. Needle Points The needle point is determined by the fabric weight and its structure. Round points have conical shape designed to spread the yarns without breaking them; they are used for most woven and many knitted materials. Ballpoint needles have round point and range from light to heavy. They are generally used for knits and stretch fabrics and sometimes for button sewing because they center most misaligned buttons and do not cut existing stitches. Cutting Points have sharp cutting edges; they are used on leather, suede, and neoprene. Sharp needles are for all woven fabric. The sharp point is especially helpful when sewing straight lines and tasks such as tops stitching. Ballpoint needles are designed for knit fabric so that the point glides between the loops of a knit fabric without disturbing the fibers that make up the fabric. Ball point needles do not form as straight stitching as sharp needles. The non-straight stitching is more apt to stretch with the fabric.

Fabric Studies


Universal needles can be used with woven or knit fabric. The point of a universal needle is sharp yet very slightly rounded giving it the characteristics of a sharp and a ballpoint needle. If you are not happy with the stitches your machine is forming, try switching the needle to either a ball point or sharp.

1.4. Types of Needles For use in a particular machine, needle must conform to the machine manufacturer’s specification as regards shank diameter, length from butt to eye and total length. Some types of needles used for different machines are given below in the table:

Sl.No Machine Needle Used 1. Single Needle Lock Stitch DB X 1 2. Double Needle Lock Stitch DP X 5 3. Single Needle Chain Stitch (class 401) DB x 5 4. Over Lock DC x 1, DC x 27 5. Feed of Arm UV 128 GAS 6. Bar-tack DP X 5 7. Button Stitch TQ X 1, TQ X 7 8. Flat lock, Button Hole TV X 1

1.5. Needle Sizes Sewing machine needles sizes are determined according to both the American and/or European system of sizing. Generally both numbers will be given.

European sizes are: 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, and 110 American sizes are: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18

When packages list both sizes, the European size is written over the American size and looks like a fraction. For example: 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, 100/16, and 110/18. A good rule of thumb to remember is that the smaller the number, the finer the needle. In

Fabric Studies


addition, the finer the fabric, the smaller the needle size needs to be, to reduce the stress on the fabric.

1.6. Selecting the right needle for the fabric

1.6.1. For Woven fabric Fabric Weight and types of Fabric Needle

Types Needle Sizes

For feather weight and very light weight fabrics

Batiste, chiffon, fine lace, voile, organza, georgette, transparent fabrics, and microfibers

sharps, universals

60/8 and 70/10

For lightweight fabrics

Challis, chambray, charmeuse, crepe, dotted swiss, satin, lace, taffeta

sharps, universals

60/8 and 70/10

For lightweight to medium weight fabrics

Metallics, gingham, percale, seersucker

sharps, universals

60/8, 70/10, and 80/12

For medium weight fabrics

Broadcloth, brocade, pique, shantung, silk suiting, chinz, faille, felt, polyester blends, acrylics, woolens, worsteds, washable wools, fleece, gabardine, outerwear

sharps, universals

70/10, 80/12, and 90/14

For medium weight to heavy weight fabrics

Denim, twill weave fabric, corduroy, terry cloth, velour, faux fur

sharps, denim, universals

70/10, 80/12, 90/14 and 100/16

For heavy weight fabrics such as:

Canvas, coatings, duck sharps, universals

80/12, 90/14, and 100/16

1.6.2. For Knit fabric Fabric Weight and types of Fabric Needle

Types Needle Sizes

For lightweight fabrics

Double knit, interlock, jersey, mesh, panne, velvet, rib knit

universals and stretch

60/8, and 70/10

For light to medium weight

Velour, fleece, sweater knits, sweat shirt knits

universals, stretch, and ballpoint

60/8, 70/10, and 80/12

For medium to heavy weight fabrics

Faux fur, double knit, and fleece universals, stretch and ballpoint

70/10, 80/12, 90/14, and 100/16

In general universal needles can be used with any type of fabric, sharps needles should be used with woven fabrics, ballpoint needles should be used with knit fabrics, and stretch needles should be used with fabrics that have stretch. Specialty needles such as denim needles should be used for jeans, leather needles for leather, and embroidery needles for embroidery stitching, and quilting needles for quilt making. Using the correct sewing machine needles will alleviate a lot of stitching headaches and result in a better stitch quality.

Fabric Studies


1.7. Different Types of Needles Ball Point Needle: Made especially for sewing on knits. Its unique point does not damage or break knitted fibers. It comes in size 10/70 through 16/100 and in an assortment pack. Choose the size that will handle the thread being used when sewing on knits. Denim/Jeans Needle: Made especially for sewing through densely woven materials such as denim or imitation leather. It is both strong and sharp. Some quilters use it when sewing through many layers of fabrics, especially high thread count batiks. This needle comes in sizes 10/70 through 18/110. Choose the size based on the type of thread being used. The heavier jeans threads work best with the larger needle. Double Eye Needle: Used for embroidery and topstitching with decorative threads to produce decorative seams. They have two (2) eyes, one right above the other. Two different threads can be used for shading and texturing effects. These needles work in machines that use the 130/705H system needles. Double Needle (Twin Needle): Comes in a variety of needle types and sizes. Double needles are actually two needles mounted on one shaft and are used to create two rows of stitches at the same time. When using a double needle two spools of thread will be used in the top of the machine. Pass the thread from each one on a different side of the tension discs and thread one into each needle. Only one bobbin thread will be used and the stitches will create a double "web" of stitches on the back of the work. Embroidery Needle: For use with rayon and other specialty machine embroidery threads including polyesters. The special scarf, long smooth groove, and large eye, of this needle protect these more fragile threads and guard against excess friction. These needles come in size 75 and 90. The beautiful sheen of these threads results in outstanding embroidery work. Check the size of the thread and use the appropriate size needle for each thread — remember the finer the thread, the smaller size needle that should be used. Gold Embroidery Needle: The special Titanium Nitride ceramic coating improves needle wear resistance in high stitch count applications and penetration of coarse or densely woven materials. Has a slightly rounded point for embroidery on most fabrics. The enlarged eye accommodates special application threads. Hemstitch Needle: Sometimes called a Wing Needle. It is used to create decorative openwork or cut-work on tightly woven fabrics. This needle comes in sizes 100 and 120 and should be used with caution as it is very sharp and is made to actually cut the fabric. The user may want to use a stabilizer and experiment with decorative stitches when using this needle. Carefully hand turn the needle through the stitch movements before actually trying it on the project to assure that the throat plate opening will accommodate the design! Using a straight stitch plate will probably result in a broken needle. Leather Needle: Has a slightly sharp cutting point for leather and other heavy non-woven synthetics including imitation leather. It comes in size 8/60 through 18/110 and in an assortment package. Choose the size based on the type and size of thread being used. Metallic Needle: A must for sewing with metallic threads. It comes in sizes 80 and 90 and helps prevent shredding and breaking with metallic threads. It has a double sized, polished, and Teflon coated eye to assure smooth flow of thread.

Fabric Studies


Microtex Sharp: A very slim needle with a thin shaft that helps make very straight stitches. It was developed for the modern microfibers and polyesters and high thread count, high quality fabrics used today. The point is very sharp — thus the name — but because of this it is a bit more fragile and needs to be changed more regularly. This is a great needle for piecing high thread count fabrics like Batiks, silks, and microfibers. It is also used for beautiful topstitching or edge stitching. It comes in sizes 60, 70, 80, and 90. Quilting Needle: Made especially for piecing and machine quilting. The thin tapered design of these needles allows them to pass through many layers smoothly to help eliminate skipped stitches and keep stitches even. These needles come in size 75 which is fine for piecing with 50 weight threads or size 90 which works well with heavier plain or variegated 40 weight threads for quilting. Self-Threading Needle: A general purpose needle with a slip-in threading slot for people who have difficulty threading needles. These needles are helpful for children, those with vision problems, or those having difficulties with fine motor coordination resulting from arthritis or other conditions. They come in sizes 12/80 and 14/90 Stretch Needle: Made especially for synthetic suede or highly elastic synthetic knit wear. This needle is constructed with a medium ball point to help prevent skipped stitches. It comes in sizes 11/75 and 14/90. Topstitch Needle: Has an extra large eye and large grooves to accommodate topstitch thread. This needle helps stitch perfectly straight lines and even stitches. It comes in sizes 10/70, 12/80 and 14/90 and 16/100. It is helpful to use a straight stitch plate if you are expecting perfectly straight top stitching results. Triple Needle: Triple needles are actually three needles mounted on one shaft and are used to create three rows of decorative stitching at the same time. Universal Needle: A general purpose needle that can be used on knit or woven fabrics. A casual sewer who might repair a pair of jeans today, a child’s t-shirt tomorrow, and some lingerie next month will probably use this needle most often. It will do a number of tasks sufficiently. It has a long scarf that is great for zigzag stitching and it does not damage knits. It is sharp enough to go through a lot of fabrics but it does have a slight ball point which does not make it ideal for going through many layers or high thread count fabrics. This needle comes in a wide range of sizes from size 60 to size 120.

1.8. Characteristics of good Sewing machine needle v Needle should be sharp v Needle should be brittle v Needle elasticity should be very less v Needle should withstand high temperature v Needle should be made up of stainless steel with chromium coating.

1.9. Reasons to change a needle v There are many reasons for changing the needle. Some of them are v The needle is damaged: bent, burred, or broken v The needle is dull and makes a popping sound when stitching v The thread breaks frequently during stitching v The machine is skip stitching v A different thread size is required v A different fabric is sewn with a different weight, thickness, and construction.

Fabric Studies


2.0. Sewing Threads The quality of the stitches and seams in any sewn product is determined by various factors, without any doubt. However, use of the correct sewing thread with the right properties play a major role in achieving the right seam and stitching quality. In the world of sewing, nothing is as misunderstood as thread. The vast array of fibers alone is enough to be confusing to the average home sewer, add to that sizing, S-twist vs. Z-twist, spun vs. filament and it is enough to baffle even the most knowledgeable "expert".

2.1. Functions of sewing threads Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly to form a stitch efficiently and to function, while in a sewn product, without breaking or becoming distorted for at least during the useful life of the product. Hence basic function of the sewing thread is to deliver the aesthetics and performance in stiches and seams.

2.1.1. Aesthetics Color, luster, and fineness / thickness are the primary factors to be considered while selecting a thread for decorative purposes such as top stitching or embroidery. Other considerations include hue and shade matching, color fastness, stitch selection and uniformity of stitch formation. Many of these considerations also relate to thread performance.

2.1.2. Performance Thread performance in garments can be evaluated from its seam strength, abrasion resistance, elasticity, chemical resistance, flammability, and colour fastness. Thread used in garments must be durable enough to withstand the abrasion and needle heat that occur while sewing, garment finishing, and stretching and recovery during wear. Any failure in thread performance results in losses on investments in materials, equipment, garment engineering, and labour. Sewing problems related to threads include thread breakage, skipped or irregular stitches, fusing or melting, and seam puckering. Sewability of thread is often discussed when it comes to a sewing thread’s performance. A thread with good sewability is uniform in diameter, and with a good surface finish. Longitudinal uniformity of thread contributes to uniform strength and reduces friction, as it passes through the stitch forming mechanisms. It also minimizes thread breakages and the associated costs incurred from re-threading machines, repairing stitches, and producing inferior quality products. To summarize, “sewability” of a thread includes: v No breakages in high-speed sewing v Consistent stitch formation v No skipped stitches v Evenness to prevent changes in tension during sewing v A high level of abrasion resistance v Sufficient surface smoothness to pass easily through the machine guides.

Fabric Studies


2.2. Sewing Thread Selection - Factors in sewing thread selection v Garment design, type, quality, end use and life expectancy v Desired strength and durability v Fabric weight and type v Stitch and seam type, number of stitches/inch, machine speed, and needle size v Cost.

2.3. Thread Properties Threads can be made from a single fibre type such as cotton, linen, silk, rayon, nylon, polyester, or rubber or from combination of fibres such as cotton/polyester. The earliest sewing threads were made from either animal or vegetable products and while most of these natural fiber threads are still very popular, threads made from man-made or synthetic fiber have become increasingly popular in recent years. NATURAL FIBERS F Animal - wool, silk, hair F Vegetable - cotton, flax, jute

REGENERATED F Cellulose - rayon, acetate

MAN-MADE F Mineral - glass, metallic F Synthetic - polyester, nylon, acrylic, elastic, polypropylene

2.4. How thread is made? All sewing threads begin as simple yarns. Twisting together short fibers or continuous filaments produces these yarns. This process known as “singling twist” is responsible for the strength and flexibility, which is essential in any good sewing thread. When two or more yarns are combined to make the thread, a “reverse twist” is applied to add balance. Without a reverse twist, the thread cannot be controlled during sewing. The individual yarns or plies would separate as they pass through the needle and the tensions discs of the sewing machine.

2.4.1. Twist Twist is simply the number of turns per cm or inch put in the thread. A thread with too little twist may fray and break, one with too much twist can cause snarling, looping and knotting. Balance is the key and a good sewing thread has it. Twist Direction As threads pass through a sewing machine some additional twist may be added. For this reason the direction in which the thread is twisted becomes important. A thread with a Z-twist, or left twist, is engineered specifically for the sewing machine. The action of the sewing process tends to increase the twist of a Z-twisted thread, but can actually untwist a thread with S-twist, or right twist.

Fabric Studies


Ply The number of component yarns that are twisted together to produce a thread is the ply. Two-ply threads, therefore, are simply two yarns which have been twisted together.

2.4.2. Thread finishing After construction, the thread is finished to enhance its suitability for various sewing uses. v SOFT - No further processing to change its physical characteristics. It is only

dyed and lubricated. v MERCERIZED - In this process cotton thread is treated in a caustic solution

under controlled tension. This causes the fibers to swell, resulting in a greater affinity for dyeing. Mercerization also increases the luster and adds some strength.

v GASSED - Passing cotton thread through a flame at high speed to reduce the

fuzz is known as gassing. This process also produces a higher sheen. v GLAZED - This is a process in which cotton threads are treated with starches

and special chemicals under controlled heat and then polished to a high luster. The glazed process results in a thread with a hard finish that protects the thread from abrasion and enhances ply security.

v BONDED - Treating continuous filament nylon or polyester with a special resin

that encapsulates the filaments is called bonding. The result is a tough smooth coating that adds significantly to the thread's ability to resist abrasion and greatly enhances ply security.

2.5. Sewing Thread Types

2.5.1. Spun Threads Throughout most of the twentieth century, cotton thread was the standard sewing thread both industrially and in the home. When synthetics were developed, it was only natural to attempt to emulate the sewing characteristics of cotton. Spun polyester thread, made from polyester fibers cut to the same length as cotton staple, was introduced as a substitute for cotton. All spun threads are made up from staple fibers that are spun into single yarns and then plied to make a sewing thread. Twisting together yarns made from short fibers, as we learned earlier, produces all spun threads. However the staple lengths of the fibers utilized can have an important effect on the quality, strength, and performance of the thread produced. As a general rule of thumb, the longer the staple length of the fibers, the better the quality of thread produced. The highest quality spun polyester, such as Mettler® and Gutterman® are produced from longer staple fibers. Spun threads will have a more “fuzzy” surface, which gives them a soft hand and good lubricity characteristics. They offer excellent sewing performance, but lack the strength of continuous filament threads.

Fabric Studies


2.5.2. Core Spun Threads This process seeks to achieve the strength of continuous filament threads with the sewing performance of spun thread. Core spun thread features a continuous filament polyester core covered with cotton or polyester fibers. Two or more of these composite yarns are then twisted to form the thread. The most common examples are Dual Duty® and Signature®.

2.5.3. Continuous Filament Threads This process begins by extruding individual filaments of synthetic material. A singling twist is applied to these unbroken, continuous fibers. They are then brought together and a finishing twist is applied. The result is a strong, consistent sewing thread. The most common examples are most rayon and polyester embroidery threads and YLI’s Ultrasheen®.

2.5.4. Textured Threads This process adds texture to the parallel continuous filaments of synthetic yarns, creating softness and bulk. The textured filaments are then twisted slightly and heat set. These threads provide excellent coverage for seams and rolled edges. Textured threads are typically used in the loopers of a serger or over locker. Woolly Nylon® is the best example of textured thread.

2.5.5. Monofilament Thread This is a single synthetic filament extruded to a specific diameter. They are available in a number of sizes, .004 and .005 being the most popular for the home sewer. Wonder Invisible Thread® and Sulky’s® invisible thread are good examples.

2.6. Sewing Thread Sizing Thread sizing is dependent on many factors such as fabric weight and type, stitch and seam type, machine speed, needle size, end use, and seam strength. Most threads are sized using the Tex system or the cotton count system. The Tex system, which is generally used in manufacturing, is a direct system; and the number increases with the thread size. The cotton count system which is generally used in home sewing is an indirect system; and the number decreases with the thread size. There are many sizing systems, but generally they fall in two classifications.

2.6.1. Fixed Weight These systems use the length of yarn that makes up a given weight. NEc (Cotton Count)- For Spun Threads – This is the number of hanks (840 yds.) of yarn it takes to equal 1 pound. A cotton count of “1” means 840 yards of yarn weigh 1 pound. A cotton count of “2” means 1680 yards (840x2) weigh 1 pound.

Fabric Studies


EXAMPLE: If you had a single strand of yarn 840 yards long weighing one pound, its count (or size) would be shown as 1/1. This simply means it had a count of one (the first number) and that it was a single strand of yard (the second number). If you then twisted two of those single strands together, the size would then be 1/2: One count yarn (the first number), in a two ply construction (the second number). Equivalent Size- The same size thread can be constructed using different count yarns by varying the number of plies. All the following threads are physically the same size. 30/2 45/3 60/4 To determine the equivalent size, simply divide the yarn count by the number of plies. All three of these threads have the equivalent size of 15. IN FIXED WEIGHT SYSTEMS, THE HIGHER THE NUMBER - THE FINER THE YARN.

2.6.2. Fixed Length These systems use the weight of a given length. Td (Denier count) - For Continuous Filament Threads - This is the weight in grams per 9,000 meters. Tex (TEX) - This is the weight in grams of 1,000 meters. (1 Tex = 1 gram per 1,000 meters) IN FIXED LENGTH SYSTEMS, THE HIGHER THE NUMBER - THE THICKER THE YARN. As indicated earlier, the Tex system is used as the standard sizing system. It was chosen for two reasons: first, because metric designations are used worldwide, and Tex is a metric system. Second, since Tex is a direct numbering system, logical size numbers are assigned... the finer the thread, the smaller the size number assigned, and the coarser the thread, the larger the number.

2.7. What makes a Good Thread? In general all good sewing threads have in common good sewability, good seam performance and in the case of decorative threads, aesthetics. Several characteristics contribute to these attributes and are regularly measured and monitored by most thread manufacturers. Elongation - This is the amount a thread stretches before it breaks. Threads with high elongation will give greater seam elasticity, but can cause poor loop formation leading to excessive skipped stitches and thread breakage. The elongation of a sewing thread is determined by fiber type but can also be controlled by drawing and heat setting of synthetics such as polyester and nylon. Cotton thread has very little, if any, elongation. Uniformity - Imperfections or defects in thread are thick and thin places that can cause sewing problems. The most common imperfections are: knots, slubs, neps, dropped ply, dropped filament and singles kinks. Ply Security - This is a thread's ability to stay together during the sewing process. The most common type of thread break is caused by a loss of ply security. If the plies open up during the sewing process they are much more susceptible to breaking.

Fabric Studies


Lubricity - This is the frictional characteristic of thread as it passes through the sewing machine and into the seam. The soft “fuzzy” characteristic of cotton thread and spun polyester actually gives these threads greater lubricity and better sewability than continuous filament threads. Strength - The amount of force required to break a thread. This characteristic can be measured several ways: Breaking Strength – force applied to each end of the thread until it breaks, measured in pounds. Loop Strength - when one strand of thread is looped with another strand and then broken, also measured in pounds. Tenacity - The breaking strength of a thread adjusted for thread size. Tenacity is measured in grams/denier. Threads made from continuous filaments are generally stronger and have higher tenacity than threads made from staple fibers. Twist - A thread with too little twist may fray and break, one with too much can cause snarling, looping and knotting. Thread breaks - can be caused by a number of variables including: v Using the wrong thread for the application v Incorrect needle or damaged needle v Thread defects v Too much elongation v Being sewn with too much tension v Worn machine parts v Machine out of adjustment v Operator handling

Fabric Studies


3.0. Stitches, Seams and Seam Finishes The central process in the manufacture of clothing is the joining together of multiple 2-D fabric pieces to form a 3-D garment – operations that all involve sewing in one form or another. Although there are a large number of different categories of sewing machine, their actual sewing functions are all derived from the same component of sewing.

3.1. Sewing – Introduction The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams which combine the required standards of appearance and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production. Assuming that the fabric is sew-able and suitable for garments, the achievement, at an economical level, of the various requirements of appearance and performance of sewn seams, both initially and during use, is the result of the selection of five factors during manufacturing:

(1) The seam type (2) The stitch type (3) The sewing machine feeding mechanism which moves the fabric the needle and

enables a succession of stitches to be formed (4) The needle which inserts the thread into the fabric (5) The thread which forms the stitch which either holds the fabric together, neatens

it or decorate it A stitch, which is the elementary basis of sewing, can be formed without fabric, within fabric, or through or on fabric. For the purpose of standardization of stitches and seam formations, the U.S. government developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. This guide is known as United States Federal Stitches and Seams Specifications (Federal Standard 751a). Federal Standard 751a makes the following distinction by defining these terms: v A Stitch in one unit of conformation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a

strand or strands and/or loop or loops of thread into or through a material at uniformly spaced intervals to form a series of stitches.

v A Seam is a joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting two or more pieces of material(s) and is used for assembling parts in the production of sewn items.

v A Stitching consists of a sequence of stitches for finishing an edge or for ornamental purposes or both in preparing parts for assembling.

Stitch types Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of formation. Stitch properties such as size, balance, and consistency determine stitch quality, performance, and appropriateness for end use. Properties of stitch that relates to aesthetics and performance are size, tension, and consistency. Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth. Stitch length Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (SPI) and can be an indicator of quality. Stitch length is determined by the amount of fabric that is advanced under the needle between penetrations. High SPI means short stitches, low SPI means long stitches. Long stitches are usually less durable and may be considered low quality because they are more subject to abrasion and are likely to snag.

Fabric Studies


Stitch width Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation of formation of one stitch or single line of stitching. Stitches that have width dimensions require multiple needles or lateral movement of thread carriers such as needle bars, loopers, or spreaders. Stitch depth Stitch depth is the distance between upper and lower surface of the stitch. For example, the depth of the blind stitch determines the amount of penetration by a curved needle. Thread tension Thread tension affects stitch formation in two ways. Thread tension involves (1) the balance of force on the threads that form the stitch and (2) the degree of compression on the fabric created by the threads as a stitch is formed. Tension ensures a uniform supply of thread and determines how well stitches conform to the standard formation. Two much tension causes seam pucker, uneven stitches, unbalanced stitches, weakened thread, and damaged fabric. Too little tension might result in loose or skipped stitches, grinning, and weak seams. Stitch consistency Stitch consistency is the uniformity with which each stitch is formed in a row of stitches. Each stitch should be exactly like the previous one regardless of curves, corners, or varying thickness of the fabric.

3.2. Stitch Classes Industrial sewing machines are classified according to their intended use and the means of forming stitches. A stitch can be defined as ‘one unit of conformation resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping, or passing through material’. Stitch formation consists of one or more thread supplies being combined together to form a stitch. These are defined as Intralooping: The passing of one loop of thread through another loop of same thread supply; an example of this type is 101 single thread chain stitch. Interlooping: The passing of a thread through a loop formed by separate thread supply; an example of this is a 401 two thread chain stitch. Interlacing: The passing of a thread around, or over, a separate thread supply or a loop of that supply; an example of this is 301 two thread lock stitch. The six classes of stitches as given in Federal Standard 751a are as follows: v Class 100 chain stitches v Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches v Class 300 lock stitches v Class 400 multi thread chain stitches v Class 500 over edge stitches v Class 600 covering chain stitches

3.2.1. Class 100 Chain Stitches The stitch class 100 includes stitch types 101, 102, 103, 104 and 105. The chain stitch class 100 is formed with one or more needle threads that form a loop on the underside of the fabric. There is no lower thread. One of the simplest of all stitch types is 101, which is formed from a single thread. It can be easily removed and it is used for basting operations in tailored men swear and women’s wear. It can only be used where the

Fabric Studies


marks of needle penetration close up afterwards in pressing. A basting operation, in positions such as edges, flaps, collars, and so on, is a temporary stitch, allowing accurate placement of permanent stitches.

Class 101 – Chain Stitch Class 103 – Blind Stitch The blind stitch version, 103, utilizes a curved needle in order to, successively penetrate partially into the fabric, and then into the hem edge, while showing minimally or not at all on the right side of the garment.

Sub Classes of Class 100 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class

No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 101 One Thread

Basting, or light construction


Blind stitch for Hemming


Blind stitch for Hemming

3.2.2. Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches Stitch class 200 consists of hand formation of stitches done by hand with the exception of 205, which simulates a hand running stitch but is formed by a special machine. Typical types are basting stitches and back stitches.

Class 200- Hand Stitch

Fabric Studies


Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread. Thread is drawn in every stitch or every other stitch and the length of stitching is limited. Since friction is given at the same position of the sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined during sewing resulting in thread breakage unless the thread is a high-durable one. Even when the sewing is made, the stitch looks broken. Therefore, the thread that can be used is limited. Sub Classes of Class 200 Stitch are given below



Class 202 One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs

Class 205 One Thread Pick Stitch - Topstitching

3.2.3. Class 300 lock stitches The lock stitch class 300 is the most commonly used and is easiest to understand. Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds from the top and a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin. A rotary hook or shuttle catches the needle thread loop as it passes around the bobbin and interlocks the two threads. If a lock stitch thread breaks, the two threads used to form the stitch lock and the whole line of stitches won’t unravel. Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for a variety of operations. It is also the only stitch formation that can be backstitched. Thus, a lock stitch machine is a good choice for a small manufacturer that produces fashion goods. A complete garment can be sewn on a lock stitch machine. Also, if versatility is needed, a lock stitch is a good choice but if speed and efficiency are the priorities, it may not be the right selection. Lock stitch machines are slower than other classes of industrial machines. Operating speeds range from 3000 to 5000 rpm while other machines can operate at 9000 rpm or more. On short seams, an operator would not be able to reach maximum speed; therefore, it is recommended to be used on small parts, while faster stitch types should be used for larger parts and longer seams.

1-Needle Lock Stitch 1- Needle Lock Zig-Zag Stitch.

Fabric Studies


Some of the most common type of stitches in this class are: Stitch type 301 – The 301 is referred to as a plain stitch or a straight stitch. It is the stitch type performed by the standard home sewing machine. Equal amount of needle and bobbin threads are used and upper and lower threads interlocks in the center of the fabric. The 301 uses the least amount of thread and produces the flattest stitch. It is the tightest and most secured stitch among all stitch types. Because this stitch formation is the same on both sides of the seams, it is reversible and used extensively for top stitching, especially along collar and cuff edges, and fronts of jackets. It is a poor choice in areas that need to stretch as it has least amount of elongation potential. The 301 is inappropriate to attach elastic or sew knit or bias seams that are expected to stretch. Stitch type 304 – Type 304 is the traditional one stitch zigzag that is used to sew appliqués, attach lace on lingerie, and produce forgetting. Forgetting is a decoration stitch used to connect two pieces of fabric but allowing space (width of stitch) between the pieces. It provides elongation, is smooth, and will not ravel out. Other types of zigzag lock stitches are class 308 and 315 which form a longer and a wider zigzag by using several stitches before changing direction. Lock stitch machines generally have more down time because they operate with a limited supply from bobbins that have to be replaced as they run out. Repair time is also more as opening a lock stitch is more time consuming than a chain stitch. Sub Classes of Class 300 Stitch are given below



Class 301

Two Threads Seaming Multiple Plies

Class 304

Two Thread

Zigzag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

Class 306

Two Thread Blind Stitch

Class 315

Two Threads

"Three Step Zigzag; a stretch lockstitch with more

stretch

Fabric Studies


3.2.4. Class 400 multi thread chain stitches The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch type. This multi thread chain stitch requires one or more needle threads that form loops as they pass through the fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the underside, all of which feed continuously from the cones. The 400 class requires an upper and a lower thread and use a looper to carry the lower thread and form a thread loop on the underside of the fabric. Machines producing 400 Class do not back tack although stitches can be condensed to secure the ends of the threads.

The most common stitch types in this class are: (1). The 401 or two thread chain stitch It is also called double locked chain stitch. Its appearance is the same as the 101 with a flat straight thread formation similar to a lock stitch on the face of the fabric and a loop on the underside. The 401 can be unraveled, but only if the looper thread is pulled in the direction the stitches were formed. The 401 machines are capable of operating at very high speeds. These chain stitch machines often use multiple needles to produce parallel rows of stitching. The loop formation of the chain stitch elongates when extended; thus it is used for seams that require elasticity, such as setting sleeves and attaching elastic. This stitch type is also well suited to automated sewing equipment such as automatic seamers. (2). Stitch type 402 or cording stitch It is used primarily for stitching permanent creases. It uses two needle threads that produce two parallel rows of stitching on the face of the fabric. A looper thread travels between the two needle threads on the back of the fabric creating a ridge or crease between the needle threads on the face. This type of stitching can be found on sportswear where a crease needs to be maintained or on the back of the gloves. (3). Stitch type 404 It is similar in appearance to a 304 stitch in the sense that it is also a zigzag stitch except the difference that it is formed as a chain stitch and contains loops on one side. (4). Stitch type 406 & 407 They are known as bottom cover stitches. They are used to cover seam or unfinished edges on the inside of garments and to keep them flat. They appear as 2 or 3 rows of parallel “lock stitching” on the face of the fabric while a looper thread connects the rows on the back. Stitch type 406 is used to produce flat, comfortable seams on necklines of T-shirts bottom felling of T-shirts, or on binding of men’s briefs. The 406 stitch uses 2 needle threads and 1 looper thread like a 402 except that it does not ridge up. Stitch type 407 is very much similar to 406 except that it uses three needle threads and has even more stretch. The primary use of 407 is to attach elastic to undergarments, which require maximum stretch.

Fabric Studies


Sub Classes of Class 400 Stitch are given below



Class 401

Two Threads

Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate stretch

Class 406

Three Threads

"Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater) stretch chain stitch

3.2.5. Class 500 over edge stitches The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads, and have as a general characteristic that loops from at least one group of threads pass around the edge of the material. The loops form a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric with threads intersecting at the edge and preventing the fabric from fraying. All have high elasticity, they do not unravel easily, and a trimming knife on the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. These stitches are often called overedge, overcast, over lock, serge, or merrow. Overedge machines must have three stitch forming devices, a needle to carry the thread through the fabric, a looper or spreader to carry the thread from the needle to the edge of material on the bottom, and a looper or spreader to carry thread up and over the edge of the material on the top. The various stitch types uses various combinations of these three devices. The odd numbered stitch types 501, 503, 505, and 521 are known as “break open” stitches because they act similar to the spiral back of a notebook. The fabric is held tight together but not secure along the inner edge of the stitching, which allows the stitch to break open. These stitches are best used for edge finishes and hem. They are characterized by a loose thread on the bottom that is pulled to the edge of the fabric where it interloops the looper thread. This creates a purl stitch or Interlooping of thread that wraps and protects the edge of the fabric. The even numbered stitch types in this class – 502, 504, 512, and 514 – have a much tighter needle thread that holds the two layers of fabric together at the actual seam line. These stitches do not “grin through” or become exposed between the layers of fabric. These stitches have a much smoother appearance and are more durable. 1. Serging and Edge stitches Types 503, 504, or 505 are over-edge stitch types that are used for serging. Serging is the process of finishing a single ply of fabric to prevent raveling. This is often one of the first processes in sewing a garment if another edge finish will not be given later in production. Serging gives a more finished appearance on the inside of a garment. Stitch types 502 and 503 are formed by two threads, a needle and looper thread. The 502 type is a tight stitch that is used primarily for seaming the outer edge of bags, while 503 is used for blind hemming and serging. Type 503 is used mainly for hems in T-shirts and

Fabric Studies


other kit garments and serging seams of dress slacks because the two thread construction is less likely to press through the garment. Stitch type 504 and 505 are three thread overedge stitches that are formed with one needle thread and two looper threads. They require more thread in the formation, but they also have more stretch. Type 504 is highly extensible but secure stitch that makes an excellent seam for knit garments, such as seams of cut and sewn sweaters. It is the most common of 500 class. 2. Mock safety stitches Stitch types 512 and 514 are sometimes called mock safety stitches. They are four threads over edge stitches that are formed with two needle threads and two looper threads. Type 514 is stronger and more elastic than 512, but both may be used for seaming knits and wovens. However, 514 make a wider seam and may be desirable for some knit garments. 3. The safety stitches 515, 516, and 519 are a combination of an overedge stitch and a 401 chain stitch. This type is called a safety stitch because the chain stitch that closes the seam is backed by a row of another tight overedge stitches. Both rows of stitches are formed at the same time. This type of seaming is widely used by manufacturers of shirts, jackets, blouses, and jeans. Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:



Class 502

Two Thread

One Needle Over edge stitch for Serging

Class 503

Two Thread

Over edge stitch for Serging with Class-1 over on Edge of Fabric

Class 504

Three Thread

Over edge stitch for Serging and Light Seaming

Class 512

Four Thread

Make Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

Class 514

Four Thread

Over edge Stitch for Seaming with wide bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

Fabric Studies


Class 515

Four Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Woven and Knits

Class 516

Five Thread

True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good Stretch for Woven and Knits

3.2.6. Class 600 covering chain stitches The cover stitch or 600 class, often called a flat lock or a flat seam stitch, is an advanced version of the 400 class and is used primarily on knits and lingerie. Machines producing the 600 class are extremely fast and efficient, operating at 9000 rpms. The stitch is formed by two or more needle loops passing through the material, Interlooping on the underside and interlocking on the upper side. A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover thread across the surface of the fabric between the needles. These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover stitches, are commonly used to cover both sides of the seam with thread. Threads must be chained off and be crossed by another seam. This stitch class uses a lot of thread but provides excellent top and bottom cover and flat seams. Stitches in this class are most complex of all and may have up to nine threads in total including four needle threads. (1). Stitch type 602 & 605 Cover stitches 602 & 605 are very strong and elastic stitches used extensively by manufacturers of knit garments to cover raw edges and prevent raveling. They may be used for attaching flat knit or ribbed knit collars. When the upper spreader thread is removed from these stitches they become 406 and 407 types, respectively. Class 602 is a 4 thread stitch with 2 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering thread. Class 605 is similar stitch but with 3 needle threads, 1 looper thread, and 1 top covering thread. (2). Stitch type 607 The flat seaming stitch, 607, trims and seams simultaneously. It is used to produce the flat, butted seams on infant panties, men’s briefs, and other knitted garments. It is a 9 thread stitch with 4 needle threads, 4 looper threads, and 1 top covering thread.

Sub Classes of Class 600 Stitch are given below:



Class 602 Four Thread Covering Stitch or Seaming Knits

Class 605 Five Thread Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

Fabric Studies


Class 607 Six Thread Wide Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

3.3. Seam Types The choice of seam types is determined by aesthetic standards, strength, durability, comfort in wear, convenience in assembly in relation to the machinery available, and cost. Certain seam types are more appropriate for some products and fabrics than others. A seam has three dimensions, length, width, and depth. Seam length is the total distance covered by a continuous series of stitches, such as a side seam or shoulder seam. Seam width considerations are width of a seam allowance, the seam heading of a lapped or a top stitched seam, and the width of a line of stitches relative to the seam. A seam allowance is measured from the cut edge of the fabric to the main line of stitches. Seam depth is the thickness or compressibility (flatness) of a seam.

3.4. Seam Classes Seams are formed by sewing two or more pieces of fabric together, but the basis of seam classification is the position of the pieces relative to each other. Many variations in fabric position and treatment account for the many different types of seams in each classification. The Federal Standard 751a, which is the basis of stitch classes identifies four seam classes and two stitching classes. Each class includes many seam types.

(1) The Superimposed Seam (SS) class (2) The Lapped Seam (LS) class (3) The Bound Seam (BS) Class (4) The Flat Seam (FS) class (5) Stitching Classes

3.4.1. The Superimposed Seam (SS) class The Superimposed Seam (SS) class - is formed by joining two or more pieces of fabric, usually with seam allowance edges even and one piece superimposed over the second. These seams can be sewn with a lock stitch, chain stitch, overedge stitch, or safety stitch. Some examples of superimposed seams are shown below:

3.4.2. The Lapped Seam (LS) class The Lapped Seam (LS) class - is defined as two or more pieces of fabric joined by overlapping at the needle. This is the largest seam class, including 101 different seam types, with a great deal of variety as to where a seam is lapped and how it is lapped.

Fabric Studies


These seams are used to attach front band to shirts, setting pockets, side seams of quality dress shirts, side seam or inseam of jeans, and so on. Lapped seams may be stitched with a lockstitch or a chain stitch but not an overedge stitch. Some examples of Lapped seam types are shown below

3.4.3. The Bound Seam (BS) class The Bound Seam (BS) Class - requires a separate piece of fabric that encompasses the edge of one or more pieces of the garment. These seams are used to finish plain necklines, edges of short sleeves on some styles of T-shirts, and so on. Bound seam may be sewn with a lock stitch, chain stitch, or cover stitch. They would never be sewn with an edge stitch as the knife would cut off the binding. Examples shown below:

3.4.4. The Flat Seam (FS) class The Flat Seam (FS) class - is the smallest class with only six different types. The formation of this seam occurs with the butting together of two pieces of fabric, but not overlapping them. Flat seams are constructed to remain flat through care and wear. They are commonly used for seams of sweatshirts, lingerie, and long underwear.

3.4.5. Stitching Class Stitching Classes - The two stitching classes are ornamental stitching (OS) and edge finishing (EF). The finishing of either of these classes is performed on a single piece of fabric. The fabric may be folded in a variety of ways so that the stitching may be through more than one thickness, but it remains a single piece of fabric. Edge finishing is stitching that encompasses the cut edge or provides a finish for a single ply of fabric with a folded edge configuration. Stitches from any of the classes may be used depending on the type of fold and placement of stitching. Ornamental stitching may be used on a single ply for decorative purposes. It can be done anywhere on the garment except the edge. The decorative stitching may be used on jeans pockets, logos, and pin tucks.

Fabric Studies


4.0. Introduction to Fabrics When you see the clothes you wear or fabric you use for curtains or bed-sheet, have you noticed something different in them? Some fabrics are thick, others are thin, some are plain, others have self-design and some are stiff and others limp. If you examine your clothes, you will find that your inner clothes or underwear are very different from outer clothes. These differences in fabrics are because of their construction. You have already learnt in the previous lessons that the fibers and yarns affect the properties, appearance, and wearability of the fabric. Similarly, fabric construction methods also influence the appearance, properties and performance of the fabric. What is a Fabric? In order to use the fibers and yarns for apparel and household textiles and other end uses, there is a need to convert them into a fabric.

Fabric is any piece of Cloth Fabrics can be made or constructed by using a number of techniques as given below: v Weaving v Knitting v Non-woven v Braided v Nets v Laces

(1) Weaving: Weaving is the most commonly used method of fabric construction. Weaving is similar to it, where two sets of yarns are interlaced with one another at right angles. Weaving gives a firm fabric. Have you heard of fabrics like poplin, denim and cambric? Yes, these are available in all the cloth shops and you must have used them to make your garments. (2) Knitting: When you knit a sweater, there is normally one ball of yarn which is inter-looped to get a fabric. This technique is called knitting and it gives a lot of stretch and easy-care properties to fabric. Knits are mainly used for hosiery. Knit fabrics are especially useful for garments like under-wear-shirts, socks etc. (3) Non-Woven: These fabrics are made directly from fibers without weaving or knitting. Fibers are held together by mechanical forces, gum or heat. Namada is a traditional Kashmiri piece of a non-woven type of fabric. (4) Braided Fabrics: Braided fabrics are created in a fashion similar to braiding of hair. These fabrics are mainly used to make trimmings and shoe laces. (5) Nets: They are open-mesh fabrics with geometrical shapes. These yarns may be knotted at the point of intersection. You notice it being used very commonly for mosquito nets. (6) Laces: Yarns are criss-crossed to create intricate designs. Yarns may be inter-looped, interlaced or knotted to give open-mesh structure. Beautiful decorative designs can be created through lace making. Laces are very important trimmings that are used to decorate a garment.

Fabric Studies


5.0. Cotton Cotton remains the most miraculous fiber under the sun, even after 8,000 years. No other fiber comes close to duplicating all of the desirable characteristics combined in cotton. The fiber of a thousand faces and almost as many uses, cotton is noted for its versatility, appearance, performance and above all, its natural comfort. From all types of apparel, including astronauts’ in-flight space suits, to sheets and towels, and tarpaulins and tents, cotton in today’s fast-moving world is still nature’s wonder fiber. It provides thousands of useful products and supports millions of jobs as it moves from field to fabric Cotton is the world’s most important apparel fiber, making up over 50% of the fabric sold throughout the world, including cotton suits, cotton shirts, and cotton underwear. This isn’t by accident. With a long history, it has endured because of its unique properties that make it ideal for much of the clothing we wear. Cotton is attractive, durable, comfortable, and has proven itself countless times to be a superior fiber for clothing manufacturing Cotton can be made into an astonishingly wide range of fabrics, light and heavy, napped and smooth, glossy and matt. These fabrics are hard wearing, wash easily and are cool to wear. Cotton is absorbent and this, with its ease of washing, makes it an excellent fabric for hot climates and sports wear. It can be woven or knitted.

5.1. Physical Characteristics of Cotton Cotton is divided into various groups depending on its physical characteristics; we will focus on two of the most important characteristics, the length of the cotton fiber and its fineness. Cotton fibers vary in length considerably, from half an inch to 2 inches. Higher quality is often associated with longer length, and achieving this desired state is more expensive due the risk of a longer growth cycle and an increased demand on resources. Long fibers make up only 3% of the worldwide output, and their use is typically reserved for high end shirt fabrics and other luxury. A few varieties of this long fiber cotton used in shirt fabrics are American Pima, Egyptian, and Sea Island Cottons. Cotton fineness (the fiber’s diameter) is another quality characteristic; immature fibers tend to be 20% thinner than mature fibers, and therefore are less strong. Very high end fabric producers seek to separate the mature from the immature fibers, ensuring high durability.

5.2. Properties of Cotton Absorbency of Cotton - This is what makes cotton so comfortable in hot weather. It absorbs the moisture from your skin allowing it to evaporate by passing through the fabric, thus allowing your body to regulate your temperature. This combined with the spun yarns ability to hold the fabric slightly off the skin allows greater comfort than other fabrics in hot conditions. Cotton and Heat Conduction - Heat passes freely through cotton; combining this property along with the absorbency characteristic above, you have an unbeatable fiber for making hot weather wearing fabric. However, in cold weather, this strength is a weakness; typically cotton jackets are not good at retaining the body’s heat. Resiliency of Cotton - Fabrics made from cotton tend to wrinkle and do not hold their shape well. This problem can be addressed by specially treating the fabric or blending it

http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/cotton-fabric-mens-clothes

Fabric Studies


with a man made fiber, but you lose a bit of its other properties such as durability and heat conduction by doing so. Cotton Durability - Cotton is tough (at least when compared with other common clothing fibers). In fact, when wet it increases in strength by 30%; thus throwing 100% cotton shirts in the washing machine may mean a lot of ironing, but you can be sure the fabric will remain intact. It can be washed with strong detergents, and the only thing you may want to watch out for is it losing some of its color (thus the case for hand washing). Cotton's molecular structure resists heat damage, so ironing is a great way to get the fabric looking crisp; a quick tip - shirts respond best to ironing when they come immediately out of the dryer still a bit damp and warm. Cotton does have some durability issues. You should use bleach sparingly, as that it weakens the cellulosic fibers of cotton. It should be stored clean and dry to protect from mildew, which digests cellulose and can cause holes if too much time elapses. Cotton is also sensitive to acids, thus fruit and fruit juice stains should be treated immediately Cotton does not collect static, so it will not cling like synthetic. Cotton is a versatile fabric available in a wide variety. Fabrics vary in weight, quality and construction. There are delicate lawns, sheer voile, crisp organdie, plush corduroy, and industrial weight duck. Cotton can be blended with silk, wool, polyester and rayon to change the look and feel of the fabric. The most popular blend is with polyester, usually to cut costs and reduce wrinkles. Cotton does not have the body or suppleness for good drapability, but the quality can be improved with special finishes. Loosely woven cotton fabrics and knitted goods tend to shrink, especially at the first wash.

5.3. Cotton Fabrics Bandanna: Calico fabric with white or brightly colored design on red or dark grounds. Used for casual clothes and beach wear. Batiste: Fine fabric in plain-rib weave. Usually white or pastel colors. Used for dresses, blouses, lingerie, particularly corsets and brasseries. Broidreanglias: Fine slightly stiff fabric decorated with embroidered eyelet holes and floral motifs. For blouses, dress, nightwear and babies and children wear. Calico:One of the oldest basic cotton fabrics on the market that traces its origin to Calcutta, India. Usually a plain, closely woven inexpensive cloth made in solid colors on a white or contrasting background. Often one, two, or three colors are seen on the face of the goods which are usually discharge or resist printed, frequently in a small floral pattern. Used mainly for aprons, dresses, crazy quilts sportswear. Often interchangeable with percale - which is 80-square cotton. Cambric: Soft, white, closely woven cotton fabric calendered to achieve a high glaze. Used mainly for pocket linings, underwear, aprons, shirts, and handkerchiefs. Originally made in Cambrai, France, of linen and used for church embroidery and table linen.

Fabric Studies


Candelwick:Unbleached muslin bed sheeting, sometimes called Kraft muslin, used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy-plied yarns) loops which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut-yarn appearance of the true chenille yarn. Chambray: Popular variety of cotton fabric in relatively square count 80 by 76 that combines colored warp and white filling yarns in plain weave. Name derived from Cambrai, France, where it was first made. Corduroy:A fabric usually made of cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface. The ridges are built so that clear lines can be seen when the pile is cut. Crepon: A variety of lightweight fabrics characterized by a crinkly surface, obtained either via use of hard twist yarns, chemical treatments, weave, construction, or some form of embossing or surface treatment. Crepes are available today in an unlimited variety of fibers and blends, and in many different constructions. Denim: A firm 2X1 or 3X1 twill weave fabric often having a whitish tinge obtained by using white filling yarns with colored warp yarns. Heavier weight denims, usually blue, are used for dungarees, work clothes, and men's and women's sportswear. Lighter weight denims have a softer finish and come in a variety of colors and patterns for sportswear. Dimity: Sheer, crisp fabric with a soft luster. Has a thicker thread woven in to make coarded stripes or checks.Made from mercerized yarn. Used for children’s dresses, blouses and lingerie. Drill:Strong, closely woven, twill fabric. Used for overalls, uniforms and trousers. Duck:The name duck covers a wide range of fabrics. A tightly woven, heavy, plain-weave, bottom-weight fabric with a hard, durable finish. The fabric is usually made of cotton, and is widely used in men's and women's slacks, and children's play clothes. The most important fabrics in this group are known as number duck, army duck, and flat or ounce duck. Dotted Swiss:A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a small dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains. Flannelette: A medium-weight, plain weave fabric with a soft hand, usually made from cotton. The fabric is usually brushed only on one side, and is lighter weight than flannel. End-uses include shirts and pajamas. Gabardine: A tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line on the right side. Wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business suiting. Polyester, cotton, rayon, and various blends are also used in making gabardine. Gingham: A medium weight, plain weave fabric with dyed yarns in both warp and filling to achieve a plaid or check pattern. End-uses include dresses, shirts, and curtains. Lawn: A light, fine cloth made using carded or combed linen or cotton yarns. The fabric has a crease-resistant, crisp finish. Linen lawn is synonymous with handkerchief linen. Cotton lawn is a similar type of fabric, which can be white, solid colored, or printed.

Fabric Studies


Madras: One of the oldest staples in the cotton trade, a lightweight plain weave cotton fabric with a striped, plaid, or checked pattern. A true madras will bleed when washed. This type of fabric is usually exported from India to other countries. End-uses are men's and women's shirts and dresses. Muslin: An inexpensive, medium weight, plain weave, low count (less than 160 threads per square inch) cotton sheeting fabric. In its unfinished form, it is commonly used in fashion design to make trial garments for preliminary fit. Nainsook:A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric usually finished to create a luster and a soft hand. Common end-uses are infants' wear, blouses, and lingerie. Organdie:A stiffened, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count. End-uses include blouses, dresses, and curtains/draperies. Oxford:Soft, somewhat porous, and rather stout cotton shirting given a silk-like luster finish. Made on small repeat basket weaves, the fabric soils easily because of the soft, bulky filling used in the goods. The cloth comes in all white or may have stripes with small geometric designs between these stripes. Percale: A medium weight, plain weave, low to medium count (180 to 250 threads per square inch) cotton-like fabric. End-uses include sheets, blouses, and dresses. Pique: A medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs including cords, wales, waffles, or patterns. Woven versions have cords running lengthwise, or in the warp direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines. Plisse: A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon, or acetate, and characterized by a puckered striped effect, usually in the warp direction. The crinkled effect is created through the application of a caustic soda solution, which shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is applied. Plissé is similar in appearance to seersucker. End- uses include dresses, shirting’s, pyjamas, and bedspreads. Poplin: A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. Poplin used to be associated with casual clothing, but as the "world of work" has become more relaxed, this fabric has developed into a staple of men's wardrobes, being used frequently in casual trousers. Sail cloth: Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear). Satin: A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric face with a dull back. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and antique satin. Seersucker: A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tension at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered stripe effect in the fabric. Seersucker is traditionally made into summer sportswear such as shirts, trousers, and informal suits.

Fabric Studies


Terry Cloth:- A typical uncut pile weave fabric. This fabric is formed by using two sets of warp yarns. One set of warp yarns is under very little tension; when the filling yarns are packed into place, these loose yarns are pushed backward along with the filling yarns, and loops are formed. The cloth has uncut loops on both sides of the fabric. Typical uses include towels, robes, and apparel. Velveteen: A filling pile cloth in which the pile is made by cutting an extra set of filling yarns which weave in a float formation. These yarns are woven or bound into the back of the material at intervals by weaving over and under one or more warp ends. Voile:A crisp, lightweight, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction. Similar in appearance to organdy and organza. Used in blouses dresses and curtains.

Fabric Studies - 1st Set

Documents

Transcript of Fabric Studies - 1st Set