Fabric Properties & Colour Fastness Testing1

7/30/2019 Fabric Properties & Colour Fastness Testing1

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Fabric Properties

Colour Fastness Testing


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Colour fastness is meant as the

resistance of the colour of textilesto the different agents to which

these materials may be exposed

during manufacture and theirsubsequent use. The change in

colour and staining of undyed

adjacent fabrics are assessed as

fastness ratings.


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The conditions in the tests havebeen chosen to correspond

closely to treatments usuallyemployed in manufacture and to

conditions of ordinary use.


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An adjacent fabric is a small

piece of undyed cloth of a singlefibre or more usually a multifibre

strip made from yarns of variousgeneric kinds of fibres (acetate,

bleached cotton, polyamide,

polyester. acrylic and wool).


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The grey scales used for

assessing the change in colourof the test specimen and the

staining of adjacent fabrics

cover a range of 1 to 5 with halfgrades, 1

being severe staining/changeand 5 being no staining/change.


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AATCC test method for color fastness to

Crocking

Test specimen: colored printed cloth

specimen

size of the test: 5 x 13 cm. (2 x 5 in)Conditioning: Prior to testing, condition each

specimen for at least 4 hours in an

atmosphere of 21C and 65% RH

.


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Procedure :I) Dry crocking test

a) Place a test specimen on the base of the

crockmeter resting flat on the abrasive clothwith its long digression in the direction of

rubbing.

b) Place specimen holder over specimen asadded means to prevent slippage.

c) Mount a white test cloth square, the

weave parallel with the direction of rubbing

over the end of the finger which projectsdownward from the weighted sliding

arm. Use the special spiral wire clip to hold

the test square in place.


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d) Lower the covered finger onto the test

specimen. Beginning with the fingerpositioned at the front end, crank the meter

handle 10 complete turns at the rate of one

turn per second to slide the covered finger

back and forth 20 times. Set and run the

motorized tester for 10 complete turns.

Refer to individual specifications for any

other required number of turns.e) Remove the white test cloth square,

condition and evaluate.
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II) Wet crocking test

a) Establish technique for preparing wet crock

cloth square by weighing a conditioned square,

then thoroughly wet out white testing square in

distilled water. Prepare only one square at a

time.

b) Bring the wet pick up to 65+ 5% bysqueezing wet testing square between

blotting paper through a hand wringer or similar

convenient means.c) Avoid evaporative reduction of the moisture

content below the specified level before the

actual crock test is run.
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d) Continue crocking procedure as per Dry

crocking test.

e) Air dry the white test square, then

condition before evaluating. In the case of

napped, brushed or sanded material when

loose fibre might interfere with the rating,remove the extraneous fibrous material by

pressing lightly on the crock circle with the

sticky side of cellophane tape beforeevaluating.


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Assessment: Gray scale 1-5 forstaining.

1-poor, 5 - excellent


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Washing Fastness

This part of the standard specifies the

methods intended for determining the

resistance of the colour of textiles to

domestic or commercial launderingprocedure used for normal household

articles. A specimen of the textile in

contact with specified adjacent fabrics islaundered, rinsed and dried.


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Specimens are laundered under

appropriate conditions of

temperature, alkalinity, bleaching

and abrasive action such that the

result is obtained in a convenientlyshort time. The abrasive action is

accomplished by the use of a low

liquor ratio and an appropriatenumber of steel balls.


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A suitable mechanical device

consisting of a thermostaticallycontrolled water bath containing a

rotatable shaft which supports

stainless steel containers. Thechange in colour of the specimen

and the adjacent fabric is are

assessed by comparison with the

grey scales.


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Light Fastness Testing

All dyed or printed material experience change incolor when exposed to daylight for a sufficientlylong period because of the action of sunlight on

pigments or dyes used in them. The severity ofexposure in both time and intensity of daylightdetermines the extent of change in color.

The color fastness is denoted by the number of the

Light Fastness Standard Fabric that has changedcolor to the same extent as the test specimen. It isexpressed as the numerical Rating for Light

Fastness.


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(Light Fastness Tester) is designed to test

color fastness of textile materials to

sunlight. The main unit of the instrument is

completely made of M.S sheet with 500W

MBTL (Mercury Blinded Tungsten Lamp)

fixed at bottom to create artificial daylight

and topside open.Specially designed Sample holding device

is provided to expose the samples.


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Temperature of

the inside chamber is maintained

by water circulation. Sample

holding device has the provision

to inject the humidity solution tomaintain relative humidity of the

sample. Digitally control resettable

hour meter is provided in thecontrol panel to set exposure time.


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Heat Fastness Tester


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Perspirometer

The perspiration test unit is used todetermine color fastness to water andperspiration in textiles. Color fastness of

dyed or printed fabrics, againstperspiration, is determined by exposingthe fabric sample to the action of bothalkaline and acidic reagents, while in

contact with un-dyed adjacent fabrics onboth sides.


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Technical Details

Load on the Test Specimen :3.63 kg (8lb) AATCC & Adl. 0.47 kg (1lb) for ISO

Test

Size of Test Specimen :100 mm x 4 0mm

Size of Acrylic Separator Plates : 115

mm x 60 mm

Number of Separator Plates: Set of 21.


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Specimens of the textile in contact with adjacent

fabric are treated in two different solutions

containing histidene, drained and placed betweentwo plates under a specific pressure in a suitable

testing device. The specimens and the adjacent

fabric are dried separately. The change in colour

of each specimen and the staining of the adjacent

fabric are assessed with the grey scales. The two

solutions used in the test are buffered to pH 5.5 &

8.0. The test duration under pressure is 4 hoursat a temperature of 37 c, a suitable testing device

is a Perspirometer.


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Comfort

Fabric hand : Smoothness , fullness ,

stiffness

Permeability to air & water vapour

Initial cold feel


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Comfort :Air Permeability Tester


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Wet ability test

Sinking Time Test

Drop Penetration Test

Wicking Test


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Safety & Flammability Testing


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Flammable: A flammable fabric is one which

propagate flame, i.e. it continues to burn after the

igniting flame has been removed

Flame resistance rating : is the time in seconds

necessary for the propagation of flame 100 in in a

verticle strip .

Flame-proof: a flame-proof fabric is one which

does not propagate flame.

Flame-resistant : A flame resistant fabric is one

whose flame resistance rating is high i.e above

150


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Inherently flame proof material. Material

which , although not submitted to a flame-

proofing process , is flameproof.

Durably flame proof material: Flame proof

material which, after being submitted towashing treatment , remains flame proof.

Temporarily flame proof material :

Material which is flame proof before washing

treatment but not after the washing

treatment.


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The 45 Test :- in which the time,t, for the flame to travel 5 inch

over fabric sloping at an angleof 45 degree is measured in

seconds.


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Fabric Properties & Colour Fastness Testing1

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