FabricTrendsFabricTrendsV I S I T U S O N L I N E A T W W W . G E A R T R E N D S . C O M

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CATCH ME IF YOU CANThe blending of advancements in fabric and fiber technology into garment design is giving athletesthe “bionic” edge.

6NOW YOU SEAM THEM,NOW YOU DON'T

The seamless sensation is spreadingthroughout the industry like wildfire and is revolutionizing the fit and feel of apparel.

10TELLING THE STORY

The industry says it places a high priority on fabric education for storestaff and consumers, but is the system working?

12FORMING A NEW BOND

Gear and apparel manufacturers are bonding with adhesive film and welded seam technology.

16CARE & FEEDING OF SYNTHETIC INSULATIONS

A practical reference guide with tips on how to care for syntheticgarments and gear.

18ON THE HORIZON

Our look at trends in textiles that youmay see down the pike.

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A G E A R T R E N D S ® S U P P L E M E N T

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f a b r i c t r e n d s

welcomehe GearTrends® team trusts you will enjoy FabricTrends, our first supplement designedto serve the information and communication needs of fabric, insulation and notions

suppliers. FabricTrends was produced in partnership with FabricLink.com, an online educa-tional resource and communication link developed for the textile/apparel/retail industry andits consumers.

In addition to co-branding, information support and the co-development of special fabric in-formation and trends pages in GearTrends® magazines, the partnership between GearTrends®

and FabricLink.com establishes programs to provide benefits for suppliers who participate asmembers and advertisers in both GearTrends.com and FabricLink.com.

To that end, it’s ideal: SNEWS® and GearTrends® are considered the best sources of tradenews and information for the outdoor and fitness industries, and FabricLink.com has estab-lished itself as the leading source of information specific to fabrics, mills, manufacturers andfiber producers—a key resource for both industries.

Through our partnership, all manufacturers, suppliers, retailers and consumers of theoutdoor, adventure and fitness industries now have unique access to the most current prod-uct knowledge and trends information available.

Thank you for reading, for your feedback, and for your support of our efforts to serve theindustry.

Michael Hodgson Kathlyn SwantkoCo-Publisher, GearTrends® and SNEWS® President, FabricLink.com

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F A B R I C T R E N D SS U M M E R 2 0 0 4Editor/Publisher: Michael Hodgsonmichael@snewsnet.com, 530-268-7736

Editor/Publisher: Therese Iknoiantherese@snewsnet.com, 530-268-8294

Managing Editor: Wendy Geisterwendy@geartrends.com, 714-508-5757

Contributor: Kathlyn Swantko | kgswantko@fabriclink.com

Art Director: John T. Davidson | jrocket77@aol.com

Editorial materials & correspondence to:101 W. McKnight Way, Ste. B-305, Grass Valley, CA 95949530-268-8295

MEMBERSHIP/SUBSCRIPTION SALESSales Director: Gene Treacygene@geartrends,com, 865-675-2052

Eastern Account Manager: Daisy LeDucdaisy@geartrends.com, 865-977-7897

Western Account Manager: Elizabeth Fearyelizabeth@geartrends.com, 303-753-8726

GearTrends® membership/subscription rate inquires to:329 Treyburn Dr., Knoxville, TN 37922865-675-2052 | Fax 865-675-2053

Copyright ©2004 by SNEWS LLC. No part of this magazine may be reproducedwithout written consent of the publisher. All rights reserved.

www.GearTrends.com • www.snewsnet.com

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hough the traditional thought hasit that a “stitch in time saves

nine,” what if there weren’t a stitch tobegin with? It might be time to changethe saying to something like “a touchof glue saves two” or “a welded seamis keen.” Just the thought of less bulkyand lighter-weight gear and garments,all with more pleasing aesthetic lines(dare we say, fashionable?) is enoughto get many designers “permanentlybonded” to this new technology!

ADHESIVE FILMSBemis is the maker of Sewfree, one of theleading adhesive films being used to replacestitches for seams. Seamless technology, orproducts using Sewfree in construction,range from intimate apparel, lifestyle gar-ments, technical outerwear, accessory itemsand even footwear, according to Chris Par-lee, marketing manager for Bemis.

Sewfree adhesive film is being used tobond fabrics and components—includingeverything from lace and meshes to ripstopnylons, all in one step—by such manu-facturers in the outdoor industry as Arc’Teryx, Mountain Hardwear and Marmot.

“I would say that Mountain Hardwearand Arc’Teryx are leading the pack here,”said Paul Kramer, vice president of designand sourcing at Mountain Hardwear.“There are some surfing companies thatare big into the glue, but they are fairlybasic in their approach. A lot of them don’tseem to be very technical. Arc’Teryx andMountain Hardwear seem to be intro-ducing the products and inventing newtechniques and ideas for glued and weld-ed construction.”

Parlee said that Sewfree is being used tocomplement the stretch and recovery inwhat could be called “strategic” locationsof activewear and fitness shorts.

In apparel, welding and bonding havebeen used for the past several years toapply pockets and zippers, make darts andpleats, hang pocket bags, hem garments,make stiffer plackets or panels, and applywaistcords. The primary advantage is thatcomponents, like pockets and zippers, canbe placed without having to cut and sewthe garment. Hems and plackets are alsobeing glued to offer a clean look, elimi-nate seam tape, and prevent water leak-age in the hem, flap or cuff.

“Many times these types of applicationsare done for aesthetic reasons,” Kramer said.“But, it is also important for technical rea-sons—in order to save weight, improve wa-terproofness or to increase breathability byeliminating layers of fabric. The goal is toweld or glue a waterproof/breathable gar-ment together so that seam tape can be elim-inated, making the garment significantlylighter, softer and more breathable.”

WELDED SEAMS Welded (seamless) construction is beingused in sleeping bags, tents and packs. Insleeping bags, baffles are bonded to theshell fabric to prevent the shell from beingpunctured; however, this is only now beingdone on fabrics that have a laminate orcoating, so that the waterproof integrity ofthe outer fabric is maintained.

Similar methods for garment con-struction are used, but with some slightmodification. Mountain Hardwear con-siders the details of its constructionmethod to be proprietary.

“In tents, Mountain Hardwear is usingseamless construction to attach a coatedfloor to a fly. This eliminates the need totape, saves weight and also makes new con-struction techniques possible,” said Kramer.“Currently, welding or gluing critical seams

for tents is not possible due to the extremestresses involved.”

METHODS TO THE MADNESS There are two basic methods for applyingbonded and welded seams.

The first method uses an adhesive film(thermoplastic film) for bonding two fabrics(substrates) together. In this technique, theadhesive film is slit into tapes and appliedin strategic locations, or the adhesive filmcan be laminated to wide-width fabrics,Bemis’ Parlee explained. “During theprocess, the adhesive is tacked or laminat-ed to one of the substrates, and the secondsubstrate can be laid on top,” he said. “Then,heat and pressure activate the adhesive. Thefilm melts and penetrates into the fabricsand creates a bond between the two.”

The second method involves welding twofabrics with radio frequency/ultrasound.Ultrasonic technology involves the creationand channeling of high frequency vibrato-ry waves that cause a rapid buildup of heatin synthetic fabrics. The heat can be usedto weld, bond, cut or slit the materials, asdesired. The ultrasonic bonding process isfast, accurate and efficient.

Janet Devine, president of Sonobond Ul-trasonics, a supplier of ultrasonic equip-ment for bonding textiles, said, “With ul-trasonics, the need for consumables suchas adhesives is eliminated. In addition, theproduction runs efficiently because there isno need to allow time for glues or othersolvents to dry.”

There are many advantages of bondingor welding, according to Parlee.

“Bonded garment technology allows fora seamless look and feel,” he said. “A slim-mer profile and less abrasion to the end-user are achieved with bonded seaming. Abonded seam can also initiate the stretchand recovery of the fabric, more so thanstitching. A bonded seam can be water-proof, and a bonded garment typicallyweighs less than a sewn garment.”

NEWNEWBOND

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By Kathlyn Swantko of FabricLink.com

Welded and glued seams are eliminating bulk and mak-ing garments and gear more functional and fashionable.

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Bonding also reduces or eliminates theamount of thread used so there are nothreads to wear out in a seam, Kramersaid. “Then, you can also put other thingsinto the seams, like elastic. The seam canstretch, whereas most seams that are sewnand taped do not stretch.”

Additionally, bonding allows increasedbreathability by eliminating the need tosew and tape multiple layers of water-proof/breathable fabric together to createpockets. It also saves weight, and allowsfor less bulk and a better drape by elimi-nating seam tape or double overlap seams.

Bonded and welded applications forcomponents and zippers have proved tobe very durable in outerwear and otherapparel. Kramer noted, though, that com-panies are still testing improved sewingtechniques for mass production.

“These improvements will need to betested for durability to washing and long-term wear for technical garments,”Kramer said. “This is in process now, andthe consumer will not be the final testingground for true long-term durability. Thatis what innovation is all about.”

RATHER COSTLY—FOR NOWIt appears that the major concern rightnow is cost.

“Currently, bonding and welding is moreexpensive than traditional construction,but that probably won’t last much longer,”said Kramer. “Better machinery is becom-ing available, and the prices will go down.

“There are also some things that can’t bedone with sewing that can be done withfusing, which will create a cost benefit forthe consumer. And, with this, price willbecome less of an issue,” he added. “How-ever, in spite (of better machinery andlower costs), the process is slower thantraditional sewing, and the skill involvedis very high, making labor much morecostly. The equipment is also costly to pur-chase, so the number of factories with ca-pabilities is limited.”

Although bonding and welding havemade solid inroads into some segments ofthe outdoor and activewear markets, theiracceptance and widespread use will de-pend on getting costs down.

“Currently, the applications that get thestrongest consumer appeal are for tech-nical and functional reasons, so this nat-urally limits the field,” Kramer said.“However, in the future, I do see that theprocess will gain momentum, and caneventually go more mainstream. I seebroad applications for this technology ifthe costs get in line.”

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