Fabric Desing Fundamentals of Weaves
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Transcript of Fabric Desing Fundamentals of Weaves
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CHAPTER
THREE:
FABRIC
DESIGN
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3.1 Fundamental Weaves Weft or warp threads must have only
one warp or weft overlapping within
the repeat.
The number of warp threads in a
repeat must be equal to the number
threads. There are 3 kinds of fundamental
weaves:
Plain
Twill
Sateen
Each weave is determined by 2
parameters:
The repeat, R of weave.
The shift, S of overlapping either
vertical shift, Sx or Horizontal shift,
Sy
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3.1.2 Plain Weave The simplest weave where
the threads interlace in
alternate order and classified
as balanced and unbalanced.
In trade, such terms as tabby,
calico, batiste are applied to
plain weave fabrics.
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3.1.3 Twill Weaves
The twill order ofinterlacing produces
diagonal lines on the
cloth.
The purpose is to makecloth havier, closer
setting and better
drapping.
The parameters: R 3
Sx = Sy = + 1
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3.1.4 Regular Sateen and Satinand Irregular Sateen Weaves3.1.4.1 Sateen Weaves In pure sateen weaves the surface of
the cloth consists almost entirely of
weft floats.
The parameters of sateen weaves: R
5; 1 < S < (R 1)
For regular sateen the shift (S) and
repeat (R) must be expressed by
prime numbers, its called weft face
fabric.
The sateen weave is denoted by afraction and the numerator of this
fraction is equal to the repeat of
weave.
The denominator is equal to the shift
(Sy) of overlaps.
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3.1.4.2 Satin (Warp Face Fabric)
Usually constructedusing the vertical
shift (Sx).
Satin has the warp
effect, and the
density of warp is
much higher than
the density of weft.
Sx=3
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3.1.4.3 Irregular Sateen Regular sateen cannot be constructed
with a repeat of four or six threads,
because the repeat and shift cannot be
expressed by mutually prime numbers.
It is impossible to construct the regular
sateen if R = 6, because among the
possible values of shift found from the
formula 1 < S < (R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5,the number 2, 3, 4 have a common
divisor with 6.
In this case, we cannot choose a
constant shift, but the sateen with a
variable shift can be constructed.
This sateen is called irregular sateen. 4-shaft irregular sateen can be
constructed by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2
as shown aside.
6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed
shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.
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3.2 Derivatives ofFundamental WeavesConstructed by means of deriving from
plain, twill and sateen weaves, and retaintheir structural features
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3.2.1 Plain Weave Derivatives This group of structure comprises various
simple weave which are varieties of the
plain weave and can be produced on two
heald shafts.
Warp Rep Weaves: Denoted by a fraction.
The numerator shows the
number of warp overlapping
and the denominator, thenumber of weft overlapping
on the same thread within
repeat.
Extending the plain weave
vertically.
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Weft Rep Weave:
Opposite to warp rep
weave.
Extending the plain
weave horizontally.
Denoted by a fraction.
Sum of the fraction
numerator and
denominator equal to the
warp repeat.
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Rug from Rep Weave:
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Hopsack Weaves: Constructed by extending the
plain weave both vertically andhorizontally.
There are 2 or more warp threads
working in the same manner and
2 or more weft threads grouped in
the same shed.
Its denoted by a fraction, the
numerator is the number of warp
overlapping, and the denominator
is that of weft overlapping on
each thread.
The sum of the numerator and
denominator shows the repeat on
warp and weft.
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Fabric from HopsackWeave:
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3.2.2 Weaves Constructed on Twill Bases
Regular twill are often used as the basesfor the construction of new weaves.
Reinforced Twills: Warp overlaps are added to the
single warp overlaps of the basicweft-face twill.
The simplest reinforced twill is
twill 2/2 (widely used).
In producing this twill the same
four shafts can be used for
making the selvedges on the
warp rep weave (necessary to
coordinate the operation of
shedding and picking
mechanisms).
Retain the property of theoriginal twill.
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Reinforced twill 2/2 (left handtwill, Sy= -1)
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Compound Twill:
It is obtained in parallel
construction of two or moretwill weaves on the same
area.
The number of shafts for
producing compound twill isequal to its repeat.
Retain the property of the
original twill.
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Fabric from compound twill:
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Angled Twill: Constructed by changing the sign of shift from plus to
minus, after an assigned number of threads.
With the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is also
changed.
To construct:
i. Calculate its repeat
ii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twill
iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula, Rx = 2Kx - 2
Rx = repeat of warp
Kx = number of warp threads after the sign of shift
changes.
Ryb = repeat of the basic twill
Ky = no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes
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Example:Construct the angled twill on the basis of twill2/4. The repeat of basis twill is 6.Answer:
Ry = Ryb = 6
Rx = 2Kx 2 = 2 (6) 2 = 10
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Diagonal Twill: Construct the basic twill with an increased vertical shift
(to increase the inclination angle of the diagonalchanges).
The increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent to
the doubling of warp density (practically the shift can be
accepted equal to two or three). Can be constructed into 2 cases:
i. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by the
increased shift.
Warp repeat, Rx = R So
Weft repeat, Ry = R
ii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by the
increased shift.
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Example 1:Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill4 . 4 . 1 , if Sx = 2.1 . 2 . 2Answer:
Warp repeat;
Rx = R Sx R = 14
= 14 2 Sx = 2
= 7Weft repeat;
Ry = R
= 14
First warp constructed according
the basic twill.
Second warp constructed
according to the same formula but
the shift equal to two, and so on.
If the repeat of the basis twill is nit
divided by the increased shift the
diagonal weave will have repeat Rx
= Ry = R.
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Example 2:Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill5 . 1 . 1 , if Sx= 21 . 2 . 1Answer:
In this case, Rx = 11
and Ry = 11
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Fabric from diagonal twill:
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Shaded Twill:
Represent a gradual transition from twillwith weft effect to the twill with warp effect
and vice-versa.
Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-
pattern fabrics.
The repeat on warp and weft for the
shaded twill is determined by the formula;
Warp repeat, Rx = Rxb (Rxb 1)
Weft repeat, Ry = Ryb
Only straight draft is used.
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Example:Construct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twill 1 to 4 .4 1Answer:
Rx = Rxb (Rxb 1)
= 5 (5 -1)
= 5 X 4
= 20Ry = Ryb
= 5
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Fabric from shaded twill:
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3.2.3 Weaves Constructed onSateen BasesIn simple derivatives, a new design is
built up by using the original sateen asthe base and adding overlaps, as
required to each base overlap.
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Reinforced Sateen: Similar to reinforced twill.
If it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen onthe basis of simple sateen 8/5.
One more overlap should be added to every overlap
of the basis sateen.
Widely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps in
the repeat make the fabric structure stronger).
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Shaded Sateen: Like the shaded twill.
Shaded sateen represents a gradualtransition from the sateen with weft
effect to the sateen with warp effect,
vice versa.
The repeat Ry and Ro of the shaded
sateen is determined by the formula;
Ry = Ryb
Ro = Rob (Rob 1)
Example:
Construct a shaded sateen weave
on the transitions of shaded sateen
5/3.
Answer:
Ry Ryb = 5
Ro = Rob (Rob -1)
= 5 (5 1)= 5 X 4
= 20
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3.3 Combined or FancyWeavesThese weaves are constructed on the basis of
two or more fundamental weaves and their
derivatives. Divided into groups of crepeweaves, honeycomb weaves, corkscrew
weaves, huckaback weaves, stripe and
check weaves
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3.3.1 Crepe WeavesCrepe weave are characterized by a
pebbly or crinkle surface.
The size of pebbles and their
arrangement on the fabric surface
determine the type of crepe fabric
(crepe-de-chine, crepe-georgette and
so on).
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Georgette: Georgette describes a sheer silk (or silk-like) fabricwith a dull, creped surface.
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Crepe-de-chine:
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Construction of Crepe by DrawingOne Weave Over the Other: Choose at least two weaves (one of the weave is Sateen).
Warp repeat determines the number of shafts (type of shedding
motion of the loom should be taken into consideration).
It is common to choose the second weave with the same repeat as
the first one. If the second weave is not equal the repeat of the crepeweave is found as the least common multiple of the repeats of base
weaves.
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Construction of Crepe by Arrangingthe Warp Overlaps in Sateen Order: Constructed on the basis of sateen weave by adding
the warp overlaps.
Different groups containing two or more shaded
squares can be added at one of the sides of each of
shaded squares arranged in sateen order.
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Construction of Crepe by RearrangingWarp Twill weave can be chosen as basic weave.
The order of warp threads of the base weave should be changed.
The warp repeat changed very often but the weft repeat remains.
(These crepe weave can be produced on the same number of
shaft).
The arrangement is done by changing the position of threads on
the shafts and then constructing the weaving plan.
The construction begins with the lifting plan, where the crosses are
placed in the same manner as the shaded squares in the base
weave.
The lifting plan determines the number of shafts in the draft.
Arrange the warp threads on the shafts.
No general rules for the arrangement of the warp threads because
a variety of arrangements are possible (depends on the designer).
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Example:
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3.3.2 Honeycomb Weave orCellular FabricsA group of weaves forms an
embossed cell-like appearance of
fabric.Widely used for bathroom towels,
bed covers, quilts, winter garment,
etc.
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Example 1: The pointed draft should be drawn with the
number of shafts from 4 to 8.
The example used the number of shafts
equals 5, A.
The number of crosses for lifting plan
equal to the number of circles on the draft
(the arrangement similar to the position of
circles).
The space under the lines of crosses is
filled in with crosses is filled in with crosses
leaving one row of squares between the
space and the lines of crosses blank.
The third element, weave diagram are
formed by both element; drafting and liftingplan.
As a result when all the repeat combined a
hollow is formed in the centre part.
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Example 2:
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3.3.3 Corkscrew Weaves Kind of diagonal rib weaves.
Two types of corkscrew weaves:
1. Warp Corkscrew
Long warp floats on the face and on the wrong
side of the fabric.
It has greater warp density compare to weft and
the weave produces warp effect on both side of
the fabric.
2. Weft Corkscrew It has a weft surface.
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Warp Corkscrew Constructed on the basis
of sateen weaves such as,
5/2, 7/2, 9/2, 13/2, i.e. with
odd numbers of threads in
the repeat. It can be considered as a
derivative of sateen
weave.
Constructed by adding the
marks on the fundamental
sateen weave.
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Weft Corkscrew Constructed by turning warp
corkscrew into weft corkscrew
weave by rotating the weave
diagram by 90 and then by
substituting the warp overlapswith the weft ones, and vice
versa, A.
The direction of diagonal ribs
of the weave can be changed,
if necessary, by rearrangingthe weft threads in the
reverse order.
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3.3.4 Huckaback weaves Contains, on one hand, a
number of warp and weft
threads with long floats
which make the fabric soft
and moisture absorbent,
and on the other hand, the
plain weave threads which
ensure the firmness of the
structure.
Used for bathroom towels,glass cloths, and for
counterpanes.
Constructed on the basis of
plain weave.
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Example 2: The use of long floats in each
quarter of repeat.
If there are long warp floats in
the left bottom and right top
quarters, the long weft floats
are constructed in the left top
and right bottom quarters.
The long warp floats on the
threads 2, 4, 9 and 11 on the
face of the weave.
4 long weft floats are placed
on the threads 3, 5, 8 and 10
where the weft thread in the
place of float passes over 5
warp threads.
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3.4 Compound WeavesCompound weave fabric are of
a specific structure, therefore
special methods andmechanisms used in their
production
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Construction:
1. Choose the weave of the face (the warp-
faced weaves is chosen as the base
weaves). Example twill 3/1, A (the base
weave must have long weft floats on the
back side.2. The warp and weft repeat of this weave
equals 4.
3. The roman digits used to mark the threads
of the face weave.
4. The section cut through the warp at the
weft thread 1.5. The section for warp threads are
represented circles of the upper row, and
back warp by the circles of the lower row.
6. Weft thread 1, is placed below warp
threads 1, 2, 3 and above 4.
7. To bind, the suitable thread is warp thread
II because the point of binding is in themiddle of long float of the fabric (it is also
for better appearance).
8. The weft thread 1 has to be interlaced with
the warp threads of both systems.
9. The interlacing of the weft thread 1 with
the back warp at B can be transferred to
the diagram C.
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10.The face and back warp
threads are arranged
alternately or in theproportion of one face
thread to one thread, D.
11.The cross section of the
fabric through the weft
thread 1 is represented
at E.
12.The longitudinal sectionof the fabric through the
warp threads 1 and I is
shown at F.
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13.The weaving plan is
shown at G (divided draft
is suitable in this case).14.4 front heald shafts are
used for a face warp and
4 other shaft for a back
warp.
15.The ratio of the face and
back warps is 1:1, 2
warp threads should bedrawn in one dent of the
reed (the face and back
threads).
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3.4.2 Back Weft WeavesTo increase either the
thickness or mass of the
fabric.
2 systems of weft and one
system of warp.
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Construction:
1. Choose either warp-faced or
weft-faced weave.
2. Long warp overlaps are
necessary on the back side of the
weave for binding the back weft
to the fabrics.
3. Weft-face weave should be
chosen.
4. Example, weft-faced twill 1/3,A.5. The longitudinal section of the
fabric at warp 1 is shown at B
(weft threads are arranged in 2
vertical rows).
6. There is a long float of the warp
thread on the back side of theweave.
7. The most suitable point of
binding is the middle of the long
float.
8. The interlacing of the warp and
the back weft, C.
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9. In this double weft
weave, the face and
back weft threadsalternate with each
other, D.
10.The longitudinalsection of the
weave is, F and the
cross section at the
weft threads 1 and I,at E.
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11.The weaving plan is
shown at G. The
warp repeat of thisweave is 4, so the 4
heald shaft are
sufficient. The
straight draft is
used.
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3.4.3 Terry Toweling Weaves
Characterized by the formation of loops which areraised above the surface of the fabric either on
one or both sides.
Used for toweling, bath mats, bed covers and
dress (posses good wet ability, hygroscopisity andheat conductivity).
Two systems of warp threads and one system of
weft threads are usually used.
One warp interlacing with weft forms the ground
structure.
The second warp is used for forming the loops
which are firmly held in the ground structure.
Construction:
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A
Construction:
1. There should be two weavers beams
(difference tension during weaving).
2. The ground warp has a great tension. The
warp is loosely held in the loom.
3. The loom equipped with a special slay
motion, where the first two strokes of reed
are shot, but the third one is normal.
4. The loop threads, marked by Arabic digits,
alternate with ground threads which are
marked by roman digits.
5. Two warp repeats and four weft repeats,
B and C.
6. The simple base weave used to construct
this terry weave.
7. The interlacing of weft threads with the
ground warp threads is shown at B, and
that with loop warp threads at C.
8. Four heald shafts are sufficient for
producing this weave. The divided draft is
preferable.
9. The longitudinal section of this weave is
shown at D.
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Fabric in which the
loops are distributedon face surface
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3.5 Jacquard WeavesLarge patterns fabrics using several
hundreds warp threads interlacing
with the same number of weft
threads in the repeat equipped with
a particular type of shedding motion
called Jacquard machine.