Expert Flattening System_QS5_Uk

Expert Flattening System Manual By Torielli

Shoemaster Expert Flattening System

& Shoemaster Expert Measures

and Proportions System

31/10/2005 For QS 5.02 and Later


CONTENT

- Introduction Page: 3 - Description Page: 5 - Method Grano Page: 9 - Method Spring Page: 17 - Method Free Asymmetric Page: 21 - Method Orthopaedic Page: 26 - Method Moccasin Page: 29 - Last Measure Page: 46


INTRODUCTION

This work is dedicated to Carmelo Grano, a great Italian technician of high quality shoes. Thanks to his co-operation and incentive, we have been able to give to our Cad 3D Shoemaster System the necessary know-how for the development of the first Expert System of the shoe sector.

Carmelo Grano can be considered as one of the Main Italian Shoe Technician, all his professional activity has been dedicated to this sector. It is worth to remember the long co-operation with the glamorous Bruno Magli of Bologna and with Vanes Zaccari’s design studio. During his long career he has gained a great experience in the shoe technologies for the shell flattening and the control of lasts and shoe styles.


Thanks to Carmelo Grano’s patient work, carried out with the Torielli shoe engineers, we have this new information technology method, an invaluable source of information for young modelists. Up to now, we have been stating that the Cad/Cam programs are tools able to amplify the users’ shoemaking skills. Today, thanks to the shoe-making engineering rules that have been introduced, Shoemaster Power has probably become the first Expert System for shoe design, capable of guiding the less experienced designers and allowing the skilled ones to save a lot of time. By means of a Wizard, Shoemaster Power guides the designer in the shell flattening operation and in the control of important measures for different shoe and boot lasts as well as different shoe styles. This version, in fact, presents the following features: ♦ An Auto flattening Wizard, based on three different methods for the shell flattening :

- Model Point (VD) + Heel Height (Grano Method) - Model Point (VD) + Heel Height + Pivot (Asymmetric Method) - Free Model Point with reference lines (Free Method) - Tubular Moccasin Method

♦ A Last and Width Measures Wizard, a useful tool for the control of the lengths and of the girths in different sizes of men’s and

ladies’ lasts. ♦ A Boot Lasts Measures Wizard, the references for the control of boot last, according to the different types of shoes (boots, ankle-

boots, with zip, elasticised, etc.) ♦ A Style Measures Wizard, the measures to check the exactness of men’s and ladies shoes styles such as Oxford, Derby and

moccasin. Expert systems are a significant innovation in the Information Technology industry field and are currently enjoying a great favour as they simplify those activities that require highly specialised knowledge. Main applications refer to CRM systems. We believe that Expert systems can also be a fantastic benefit for our sector, both for engineering and management of shoe production.


DESCRIPTION

This program provider different method to create flattening in an automatic way Method GRANO: create the flattening based on a database “Opened Back Height”, function of the vamp depth and Last Heel Height


Method SPRING: create the flattening based on a database “Springing flattening”, function of the vamp depth and Last Heel Height


Method FREE ASYMMETRIC: create the flattening based on a database “Real Vamp Depth”, function of the vamp depth and Last Heel Height and Asymmetric centre line, Manual rotation


Method Orthopaedic: create the flattening based on a database “Opened Back Height”, function of the vamp depth and Last Heel Height


Method MOCASSIN: create the flattening for moccasin


METHOD – Grano From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Grano

Decolete Mocassin Oxford Boots


Standard: Create the flattening using the original rule You are prompt to input the Vamp Depth & Heel Height and the feather table


Distance from Back Heel Height and Centre Line is automatically applied in function of the specified Vamps Depth and Last Height parameters.


Customized: Create the flattening using your own parameters You are prompt to input the Vamp Depth & Heel Height

Your own parameters can be set or check using the icon from the toolbar Clicking on, a file will appear ... You can change the values inside, and then click back on the same icon to save the new settings


Here to define the flattening thickness for each type of flattening Decolete Moccasin Oxford Boot Here values to smooth the heel feather line

Here to adjust the distance from Back heel to toe AND Bottom heel to toe

for Decolete for Moccasin for Oxford for Boot

Here to set your default feather table Here measure adjustment (set “by” for value and “to” for upper)


Advanced: Create the flattening specifying all parameters manually


Last Height: This will query the Last heel height.

Unfold | Fold: To draw the flattening unfolded or folded.


Pieces: To create inner and outer pieces of the upper and the last bottom patterns ready to send to the Interface program for cutting.

Book: Pictures of the rule Info: The see the database available

All these functionalities are available for all types of model


METHOD – Spring From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Spring

Last heel height selection


Standard: Create the flattening using the original rule You are prompted to input the Vamp Depth


Customized: Create the flattening using your own parameters You are prompted to input the Vamp Depth

Reverse: In some case spring is apply in the wrong way, click reverse to correct it


METHOD Free – Asymmetric From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Asymmetric

Last heel height selection


Standard: Create the flattening using the original rule You are prompted to input the Vamp Depth You are prompted to rotate manually the flattening


Rotate the flattening until to get the right position, Then Click to fix the position.


Customized: Create the flattening using your own parameters You are prompted to input the Vamp Depth You are prompted to rotate manually the flattening



METHOD Orthopaedic From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Orthopaedic

Run Query Pitch Fold Pieces

Customize

Info


Run: Create the flattening You are prompted to input the Vamp Depth & Heel Height

Query Pitch: To know the Heel Height Fold: To Unfold or Fold the flattening Pieces: Create Outer, inner and Last bottom pieces Info: Information about the original parameters and database


Customize: To custom the program for your own use


Here to define the flattening thickness Here values to smooth the heel feather line Here to adjust the distance from Back heel to toe AND Bottom heel to toe Here to set flattening symmetry Here to define the feather table Here for measure adjustment (set “by” for value and “to” for upper)


METHOD Moccasin From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Moccasin

All step to build a moccasin from a moccasin style


Requirement: Before to start the Moccasin Wizard ... it is necessary to be sure that the following elements are done. 1/ Inner and outer reference must exist as following


2/ Bottom reference must exist as following


3/ The springing piece must exist

You can load my Demo File, clicking “Test” on the toolbar


Let’s go:

Setup the moccasin

Select the both reference line of the upper as bellow, respect the order selection


Move the inner part Until to reach this position


Rotate the inner part Click first the rotation point with the right mouse button, and then rotate until this position


Move the outer part Until to reach this position


Rotate the inner part Click first the rotation point with the right mouse button, and then rotate until this position


Splitting lines Select in the following order the splitting points


Reverse lines Make sure that the following lines are going in the right way, if not reverse with this icon


Create inner mocassin line Select line in the following order, at the specified position


Create outer mocassin line Select line in the following order, at the specified position


Finish the mocassin Click to merge the two new lines


LAST MEASURES From Tool menu select “Expert System Flattening”, then Method Last Measure Wizard


Fr/Uk: Able to get the equivalence between English and French size and reverse


Bottom Fitting: To get the bottom fitting list for a specific size, select Men or Women


Upper Fitting: To get the upper fitting list for a specific size


Book info: Some graphical information about measurement

Expert Flattening System_QS5_Uk

Documents

Transcript of Expert Flattening System_QS5_Uk