Expert Crochet

By Susan Wilters

Contents

Chapter One – Crochet Charts

Chapter Two – Crochet Graphs Color Work Tech-niques

Chapter Three – Broomstick Lace Technique

Chapter Four – Tunisian Crochet Technique

Chapter Five – Freeform Crochet

Patterns

Attributions

Thank you for purchasing the third and final bookin my crochet series. This book is geared towardthe advanced or intermediate crocheter whowants to take their skills to the expert level. In thisbook we will learn all about graphs and charts,how to crochet the Intarsia method, and exploremore expert techniques. I love to crochet and I’vebeen doing it since I was a young girl. I’m blessedto come from a long line of creative women andI have passed this down to my daughter in hopesshe will continue the tradition. One of the things Ireally like about crochet is the opportunity it givesme to express my creativity and create beautifuland useful items for myself, family, and friends.If you love crochet as much as I do and wantto learn expert techniques then you’ve made theright choice with this book. So are you ready toget started? I am so let’s get to it!

Chapter One – Crochet Charts

Many expert level patterns use charts instead ofwriting out the entire pattern. This is because thewritten pattern would be many pages long andquite confusing. Learning how to read a chart isvery beneficial in advancing your crochet skills. Achart may be a bit intimidating at first and whenyou see all of the symbols grouped together youmay want to just give up before you even try. Buttake heart, like all things if you take it bit by bitand slowly you can learn how to read even themost complex crochet chart. This table which canbe found on the Craft Yarn Council covers most ofthe symbols used in crochet charts. You should al-ways check the key for the chart you’re going towork first to understand the symbols used by thedesigner. But this table includes the standard sym-bol used in most crochet charts.

Now let’s take a look at a simple chart design.This is a heart design from DMC USA website.This pattern uses four basic stitches; chain stitch,half double crochet, single crochet, and slipstitch. The pattern is read from left to right forthe odd rows, and right to left for the even rows.Refer to the chart above and you can see howthe stitches for the pattern.

Start at the black triangle and chain three forthe foundation row. The first row consists of onehalf double crochet into each of the foundation

chain’s chain stitches. The second row is two halfdouble crochet into each of the half doublecrochet of the previous row. For the third rowyou start with two half double crochet into thefirst stitch of the previous row, one half doublecrochet between the first and second stitch andone half double crochet into each stitch to thelast two stitches. Then you work a half doublecrochet between the next to the last and laststitch, and two half double crochet into the laststitch.

Continue to work the chart until you completethe heart. At this point slip stitch three times toget to the correct place. Chain seven and work asingle crochet into the chain two of the correctrow. Chain seven and single crochet into thestitches denoted on the chart all of the wayaround the heart and join with a slip stitch intothe first chain stitch. The last row is worked withfive half double crochet into the third chain allof the way around the heart and join in the firstchain stitch and break the yarn. The white tri-

angle is the point at which you would break youryarn.

In this example of a Granny Square from CraftyMinx you can see that you start in the middle

of the chart with a chain four joined by a slipstitch. Next chain three and work two doublecrochet, chain one, and three double crochet allof the way around this round. The second roundis joined in a corner with a slip stitch and chainthree. Two double crochet, chain two, and threedouble crochet are worked I n the corner. Youthen chain one between each three doublecrochet grouping. The second color is ended andthe third color is joined in a corner and the pat-tern is continued until you have completed thethird round.

In this example from The Best Knitter’s Guide youcan see how the designer has drawn the chartto closely resemble the final square. Here is thesquare worked up from this chart.

When working charts just take it one row orstitch group at a time. Notice where the stitchesare worked in relationship to the previous rowand always count the stitches on the chart andin your work. Charts can be worked in rows orin the round. Some charts have arrows showingyou which way to work, but most don’t. Likewise

some charts have color changes, but most chartslet you decide the color scheme.

Charts are a great way to work patterns thatwould be many pages if written out, and they canbe worked no matter what language you readand write in. So if you find a pretty chart from asite that is not in your native language you’ll stillbe able to work up the pattern since you knowhow to read a chart.

You can find lots of charts for free online. Pin-terest is a good resource for charts and free pat-tern links. You may even want to try your hand atcreating your work chart once you get the hangof them.

Chapter Two – Crochet Graphs Color WorkTechniques

Graphs are used in Intarsia crochet and other col-or work patterns. Graphs are very similar tocharts, but unlike charts which may use many dif-ferent stitches most graph patterns are worked inone stitch, usually single crochet or half doublecrochet. This is because the graph pattern needsto be consistent for the picture to show up cor-rectly.

Intarsia Color Works and Graphs

A graph is read from left to right and then right toleft. In other words the odd rows are read fromright to left, and even rows are read from left toright. In this example from Crochet Kitten you cansee that you first need a foundation chain of 15plus one for the first single crochet. Starting at theright lower left corner the first row is 15 single

crochet in white. Row 2 starts on the left side andchain one and 6 white single crochet, then 1 redsingle crochet, and then 7 white single crochetto complete the row. Row 3 is read from rightto left and consists of chain 1 and 5 white singlecrochet, 3 red single crochet, and then 6 whitesingle crochet. Continue up the graph in thismanner until you have completed the pattern.

Here is an example of heart washcloth which isvery similar to the heart graph.

When working an Intarsia graph pattern windup yarn on bobbins to make it easier to handle.Since you will be changing colors often in a rowyou don’t want to have to be wrestling large ballsor skeins of yarn while you work. As you workacross a row and it is time to change colors workthe last stitch of the old color until you have two

loops on the hook, drop the old color and pickup the new one and pull it through the two loopscatching the old color under the new one. Thishelps lock the colors in place. Don’t cut the yarn,just leave the old color resting there until youwork back across the row and need it again.

You may find it is easier to handle the yarn bystringing the bobbins onto a dowel suspendedon two chairs or some other type of support.This keeps the yarn from tangling. You can alsouse shoeboxes to feed the yarn into your project,or use a coffee can with several holes poked intothe lid for the yarn to come out of.

Intarsia crochet creates beautiful pictures anddesigns. You can even use counted cross stitchcharts for patterns. Simply decide which colorsyou will use and follow the cross stitch chart asyou crochet. Here is an example of a stunningblanket called Farm Friends shared on Flickr byAmber. There is a lot of work in this blanket andthe result is amazing.

Tapestry Crochet

Very closely related to Intarsia is Tapestrycrochet. Unlike Intarsia colors are not dropped,but carried along the row as you work. Tapestrycrochet usually uses two colors and creates geo-metric or simple picture patterns. The carriedyarn can be seen faintly under the dominate col-

or which creates a very pretty effect similar tothe intricate tapestries crafted by medievalartists. Chart patterns are worked in the samemanner as Intarsia, you start at the bottom rightcorner and work the odd rows from right to leftand the even rows from left to right, but insteadof dropping colors you capture the old color un-der the stitches of the new color. When you needto change colors simply pick up the new colorand begin to work with it capturing the old colorunder the new stitches.

In this example from Carol Ventura’s Tapestry tu-torial you can see the correct way to do a colorchange. Work the last stitch of the old color untilyou have two loops on your hook and then bringthe new color up and draw it through the stitch.Carry the old color under the stitches until youneed to change colors again. Tapestry crochetcreates a double sided fabric which is reversible.

This is a very pretty example of Tapestry bagshared on Flickr by Lucie. You can see how thecolors are carried under the rows. I think thisadds to the beauty of the color work.

Fair Isle Crochet

You’ve probably heard of Fair isle knitting, butFair Isle crochet is fairly new to the scene. In-stead of dropping colors such as in Intarsia orcarrying the colors inside of the stitches of rows

in Tapestry, Fair Isle crochet carries the colors be-hind the work. These are known as floats. Youcan only use two colors per row with Fair Isle,but the color changes are crisp and well defined.Work the main color until the chart calls for a col-or change. On the last stitch of the main colorwork until you have two loops on the hook. Pickup the contrasting color and pull it through thetwo loops on your hook. Work the appropriatenumber of stitches in the contrasting color andleave two loops of the contrasting color on yourhook and pull the main color through to changecolors. The unused color will be carried on theback of your work. Don’t pull your tension tootight so that the fabric has some give. You wantthe floats to be able to stretch along with thefabric. When you pull the new color through thelast two loops of the old color pull the new colorup and over the hook to keep the yarn fromtangling in the back of your work.

In this example from the video Fair Isle CrochetTutorial #1: How to Change Color by Crochet Ever

After, you can see the difference betweenTapestry crochet and Fair Isle crochet. The topfew rows are Tapestry and the bottom rows areFair Isle. Note how the colors are floated on thewrong side of the work.

One of the benefits of Fair Isle is that you don’tsee the unused color which is carried inside thestitches of the dominate color like you do inTapestry crochet. This gives you a nice clean col-or change and an even fabric. In the above ex-ample the solid black row which separates theexamples is thinner than the rest of the Tapestryrows.

This is an example of Fair Isle crochet jumper onthe right side shared on Flickr by beanaboos.

This is the same jumper on the wrong side.Notice how the colors are carried across the rowson the wrong side.

Fair Isle, Intarsia, and Tapestry crochet tech-niques are all fun and exciting ways to work withcolor and create beautiful projects. Intarsia usesmany different colors while Fair isle and Tapestryuse only two colors per row. They all use graphsfor patterns and the same graphs can be used forall three color work techniques.

Chapter Three – Broomstick Lace Technique

Broomstick lace is a very pretty technique whichcreates lacey projects. This type of crochet datesback to the early Nineteenth Century and wasonce known as the Jiffy Stitch. You may see thisterminology is some older and vintage patternbooks. The name is derived by early crafters usinga broomstick to wrap yarn around and form thestitches. You can use a broomstick, a large dowel,or a very large knitting needle. The size of thestick, the size of the hook, and the weight of theyarn will determine the look and gauge of abroomstick lace project. You can use broomsticklace to create many projects which include hats,shawls, purses, home décor items, baby items,and garments.

To begin you start with a chain in sets of five. Onthe last chain stitch you place it on the knittingneedle (or whatever tubular object you are us-ing) and gently tighten the stitch up. Next drawa loop up around the knitting needle for eachchain stitch. Place your hook under the first fiveloops and work a single crochet for each loop.As you work a single crochet the loops will comeoff the knitting needle. You can also slide off thegroups of five loops as you work. Try both waysto see which one you are most comfortable with.

Continue working sets of five loops until youcome to the end of the row. To begin the nextrow draw a loop over the knitting needle for eachchain stitch. Be sure to count your stitches to be

sure you have the correct number and they arein sets of five. Work a single crochet for eachstitch working in sets of five again until you reachthe end of the row and all of the loops have beenworked off the knitting needle. Repeat this pro-cess until your work is the desired length. Theimages in this chapter were taken from the Howto Crochet Broomstick Lace by Margaret on theLion Brand Website.

To create the next row simply draw the yarn overthe knitting needle again and repeat the process.Work until your project is the size you desire.

This is an example of the beautiful fabric createdwith broomstick lace.

Chapter Four – Tunisian Crochet Technique

Tunisian crochet is also called the afghan stitch. Itcreates a dense fabric that can be used in manyprojects. Instead of a regular crochet hook youuse a long Tunisian hook that will hold the stitchesas you work. In Tunisian crochet you don’t workeach stitch as you go along, instead you workstitches and hold them on your hook across a rowand then work them off the hook when you goback across the row. I know that sounds a bitstrange, but once you get the basic techniquedown you’ll find Tunisian crochet is very fun to doand works up very quickly.

Tunisian Hook

The hooks you use for Tunisian crochet look justlike a normal crochet hook and come in differentsizes, but they are much longer. This enables you

to work across long rows and hold the stitchesbefore you work back across the row.

As you can see they look very similar to knittingneedles. One end has the traditional crochethook, but the other end normally has a stop on it

so that the stitches don’t fall of the hook as youwork. Tunisian hooks also come with metal orplastic cables which let you hold many stitches.These look similar to circular knitting needles.

Tunisian Basics

Unlike normal crochet you don’t turn your work.You work forward and return rows. The first stepis to crochet a foundation chain. This is simplythe chain you start almost all crochet projectswith. The next row is called the preparation row.If you look at your foundation chain you will seethe V’s formed by the chains. Now turn the chainto the side and you’ll see the “spine” of thechain. These are theloops on the back of thechain that we normally don’t crochet into. Thesespine stitches are what you will use to work thepreparation row.

Insert the hook into the first spine stitch, yarnover, pull the yarn through and leave this stitchon your hook. Repeat this all of the way acrossthe row until you have all of the spine stitchesworked. For example of you have 12 stitches youwill have 13 loops on your hook once you reachthe end of the row. This includes the first loopwhich was on your hook and 12 stitches worked.

This is what your hook should look like once yougo across the preparation row and have workedall of the spine stitches of the foundation chain.Now it is time to work the return row.

Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first twoloops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarnthrough two loops on the hook. Continue to dothis until you have all of the stitches worked offof the hook.

This is what your work will look like one you haveworked the first return row after the preparationrow. If you look at the crochet you will see ver-tical lines of stitches across the row. From nowon these vertical stitches are when you’ll use towork the forward rows.

The highlighted vertical stitches are the workingstitches on forward rows. Insert the hook underthe first vertical stitch from the hook (not theone directly next to the hook), yarn over and pullthe yarn through leaving the loop on the hook.Repeat this until you reach the end of the row.Use the very last vertical stitch as the last stitchin the forward row.

Repeat the return row by yarning over andpulling through the first loop on the hook. Yarnover and pull through two loops until you reachthe end of the row. When you get to the end ofthe row you’ll repeat the forward rows and re-turn rows until you reach the desired length ofyour project. Once you’ve reached the desiredlength it is time to bind off your stitches.

This is a very simple process, you simply yarnover and pull through the loop on a return rowand when you get to the end of the row simplypull the yarn through the last stitch and breakthe yarn.

The front of your work will look like this imageand the back will look knitted. The right side of

your work will always face you; you don’t turnyour work with Tunisian crochet. If you want tochange colors simply change colors like youwould in any crochet project by leaving the lasttwo loops on the hook last stitch of the returnrow, and then pull the new color through theloops and start continue.

Double Crochet in Tunisian Crochet

You can also double crochet in Tunisian crochet.Start with a foundation chain and a preparationrow. On the first forward row chain two and skipthe first vertical stitch. Yarn over and insert thehook into the second vertical stitch, yarn overand pull through two loops, yarn over and pullthrough two loops on the hook and leave the lastloop on the hook. Once you’ve worked acrossthe row you’re ready to crochet the return row.On the return row yarn over and pull throughone loop, yarn over and pull through two loops.Keep yarning over and pull through two loops

until you reach the end of the return row andthen start the next forward row.

There are many stunning effects you can createwith Tunisian crochet. The technique lends itselfquite well to scarves, dishcloths, bags, garments,rugs, pillows, and almost any type of crochet pro-ject. You can even crochet in the round with thistechnique by joining the foundation chain andthen working in the spine stitches just like if youwere crocheting a flat piece.

One of the things that is really great about Tunisi-an crochet is the nice crisp edges you get. Sinceyou only use one loop on the first stitch of thereturn row a natural straight edge is formed. Ifyou want an edging all you have to do is join theedging yarn in one of the corners and crochetaround your project. I find Tunisian crochet avery fun alternative to traditional crochet. Itworks up quickly and is a nice break from tradi-tional stitches.

Chapter Five – Freeform Crochet

Freeform crochet (scrumming) is limited only byyour imagination. It is the technique of usingshapes, textures, stitches, and embellishments tocreate beautiful works of art. It is a chance tolet your creativity run wild with abandon. Swirls,circles, puffs, shells, beads, buttons, bows, any-thing really that sparks your creativity can be usedin freeform crochet. Here is a lovely example of anature inspired piece of freeform crochet.

The artist used many different types of yarn tocreate a tree, flowers, grass, rocks, and evenclouds and a wind effect in the sky. Mixed mediais often used in freeform crochet with embellish-ments worked into the design.

You can also use freeform techniques in gar-ments. Jackets, scarves, hats, and other gar-ments can be made unique and one of a kindwith freeform techniques. Join the different

shapes by sewing them together or use variouscrochet techniques to join the squares and addeven more texture and interest to your piece ofart.

I will be honest with you, one of the things I findmost difficult about freeform crochet is lettinggo. What I mean is I’m so used to things beingsymmetrical and even that I find the fluidity andfreedom offered by this technique hard for meto master. Freeform is just that, free. Usually youdon’t have a pattern to follow, but just an inspir-ation or idea you want to see come to life. So letyour creativity flow and don’t try to be perfect orhave things just so – it’s freeform and you’re freedo to what you want. There’s no right or wrongway, even a mistake can be beautiful.

Freeform Stitches

Although you can use any stitches you want infreeform crochet I’ve collected some fun stitchesfor you to try on your freeform project. Theseform spirals, add lots of texture, and are justplain fun to do. So grab your hook and let’s letour imaginations fun wild!

Bullion Stitch

The bullion stitch is used to add a lot of textureand depth to your freeform projects. It is createdby wrapping the yarn several times around thehook and then pulling the yarn through. This cre-ates a nice puffy stitch you can use in spirals, toform flowers, or anywhere you want some extratexture.

The bullion stitch is usually worked on a baseof double crochet. You may find it is easier topull the yarn through all the loops of you holda thin knitting needle on top of your hook whileyou wrap the yarn. This gives you some room topull the yarn through and prevents the yarn fromsplitting or getting hung up on the hook. Firstwrap the yarn around your hook 7 to 10 times.Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn overand pullthe yarn through the stitch and all of theloops on your hook.

Spirals

When you look at freeform crochet you will seespirals make up a great deal of the creativityand designs. Spirals aren’t hard to crochet; it justtakes a bit of practice. To crochet a spiral yousimply crochet in the round, but you don’t slip

stitch to form a new round. You just keepcrocheting around and around. (It is a good ideato use a stitch marker to mark your beginningstitch just to keep track of where it is.) The funcomes when you combine more than one colorto create pretty designs and effects.

To begin chain two and join and start to crochetaround and around without joining the rounds.You can use single, double, half double, treble,or any stitch you want in your spirals. Createridges by crocheting in the back loops only, andchange colors randomly to create pretty colorworks. You can use different types and weightsof yarn. Eyelash yarn and faux fur are fun ad-ditions to spirals to create interesting effects inyour freeform work.

Two Color Spirals

Two color spirals start with a magic circle. Forthis example you chain one, and work one single,one half double, and one double crochet into thecircle with color one. Make the loop a bit bigger

and attach color two and chain one, work onesingle, one half double, and one double crochetinto the loop. Gently close the loop. Your workshould now look like the following image.

With color two work into color one and work twodouble crochets into the single crochet stitch.Make sure that color one doesn’t get tangled up.Hold it to the back of your work; you’ll be pickingit up again soon. Work two double crochet intothe next three stitches.

Now pick up color one and crochet two doublecrochet into the first single crochet stitch of colortwo. Crochet two double crochet into each stitchof color two. When you reach the end of colortwo pick up color one and crochet two doublecrochet into each stitch of color one. Do this andalternate the colors until your spiral is the sizeyou want.

You can add more colors at the beginning andwork in the same manner to have as many colorsas you want in your spiral.

Nautilus Shell

The nautilus shell is very similar to a spiral, but asyou work around the stitches get higher. You alsouse more than two colors, usually three or four.Begin with a magic circle and chain one. Crochettwo double crochet in the first color. Switch to a

new color and crochet two half double crochet.Switch to color three and work eight doublecrochet.

Pull the magic circle snug and continue to doublecrochet until you have a total of 16 doublecrochet. Switch to another color and begin byworking 12 treble crochet. Switch colors onemore time and crochet 16 double treble crochetand stop if your shell is as large as you want. Ifnot continue to work double treble crochet in

different colors until the shell is as large as youwant.

Surface Crochet

Surface crochet is a bit like embroidering. Youcan add details with surface crochet, texture, andadd pretty yarns and finishes. Insert the hookfrom front to back and pull up the yarn you aregoing to use to surface crochet. You should haveone loop on your hook. Insert the hook into the

next stitch, grab the yarn and pull it up throughthe fabric. You willnow have two loops on yourhook. Slip stitch and insert your hook backthrough the fabric, grab the yarn, pull throughand slip stitch. You will see that a pretty chainis forming on the top of your crochet fabric. Youcan go any direction you want with surfacecrochet. Add edgings, details, patterns, makeflowers, faces, or any other detail you’d like withthis technique.

Freeform crochet is a lot of fun and lets your cre-ativity run wild. Give it a try and you may behooked on this beautiful art form.

Patterns

The patterns I have included in this book are allfound for free online. The image attributions canbe found at the pattern links at the end of thisbook.

Timeless Tunisian

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-pat-terns/timeless-tunisian

This very pretty afghan designed from Red Heartwill help you practice basic Tunisian stitches pluslearn how to incorporate other stitches into thistechnique. The afghan works up to be 54 by 75inches.

You will need the following amounts of RedHeart Super Saver yarn:

Color A – 5 skeins of Dark SageColor B – 4 skeins of Country BlueColor C – 4 skeins of Light SageColor D – 4 skeins of Windsor Blue

You will also need a US size G/6 (4.5mm) Tunisiancrochet hook, a G/6 (4.5mm) crochet hook, anda tapestry needle.

Gauge is 17 Tss and 14 rows equal two inches.

Special Abbreviations:Tss (Tunisian simple stitch

Long dc = Yarn over, insert hook under specifiedstitch, yarn over and draw up a loop to heightof row in work, [yarn over and draw through 2loops on hook] twice.

Beginning joint stitch = chain 2, skip next stitch,yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn overand draw up a loop to height of chain-2, yarnover and draw through all loops on hook.

Joint stitch = Yarn over, insert hook in same stitchwhere last loop was drawn up, yarn over anddraw up a loop to height of chain-2, skip nextstitch, yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarnover and draw up a loop to height of chain-2,yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Cluster (cl) = [yarn over, insert hook in specifiedstitch, yarn over and draw up a loop to heightof chain-2] twice, yarn over and draw through allloops on hook.

Beginning cluster (beginning cl) = Chain 2, yarnover, insert hook in same space as joining, yarnover and draw up a loop to height of chain-2,yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

CENTER PANELWith A and afghan hook, chain 40.Row 1: Insert hook in second chain from hook,yarn over and draw up a loop; *insert hook innext chain, yarn over and draw up a loop; repeat

from* across – 40 loops on hook. Work Tss returnpass – 40 Tss.

Rows 2-5: Work Tss forward pass and returnpass.

Row 6: Work Tss forward pass – 40 loops onhook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and drawthrough one loop on hook, [yarn over and drawthrough 2 loops on hook] 19 times; chain 3 to beformed into picot on forward pass of next row;[yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 20times – 39 Tss and 1 Tss with picot.

Row 7: Work Tss forward pass, holding chain-3loop toward front to form picot – 40 loops onhook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and drawthrough one loop on hook, [yarn over and drawthrough 2 loops on hook] 18 times; chain 3 forpicot, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops onhook] twice; chain 3 for picot, [yarn over anddraw through 2 loops on hook] 19 times – 38 Tssand 2 Tss with picots.

Follow each row on chart from A to D. WorkingTss forward pass as before and starting with row8 of chart for Tss return pass, follow chart untilTss return pass of row 23 is completed, then re-peat Rows 6-23 twelve times more,

Rows 6-14 once and Row 2 five times more.Last Row: Skip first vertical bar, slip stitchin nextvertical bar and in each vertical bar across.Fasten off.

NARROW PANELS (make 2 panels each with B, Cand D)With appropriate color yarn and afghan hook,chain 20.

Row 1: Insert hook in second chain from hook,yarn over and draw up a loop; *insert hook innext chain, yarn over and draw up a loop;repeatfrom * across – 20 loops on hook. Work Tss re-turn pass – 20 Tss.

Rows 2-5: Work Tss forward pass and returnpass.

Row 6: Work Tss forward pass – 20 loops onhook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and drawthrough one loop on hook, [yarn over and drawthrough 2 loop on hook] 9 times; chain 3 to beformed into picot on forward pass of next row;[yarn over and draw through 2 loop on hook] 10times – 19 Tss and 1 Tss with picot.

Row 7: Work Tss forward pass, holding chain-3loop toward front to form picot – 20 loop onhook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and drawthrough one loop on hook, [yarn over and drawthrough 2 loops on hook] 8 times; chain 3 forpicot, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops onhook] twice; chain 3 for picot, [yarn over anddraw through 2 loops on hook] 9 times – 18 Tssand 2 Tss with picots.

Follow each row on chart from B to C. WorkingTss forward pass as before and starting with row

8 of chart for Tss return pass, follow chart untilTss return pass of row 23 is completed, then re-peat rows 6-23 twelve times more, Rows 6-14once and row 2 five times more.

Last Row: Skip first vertical bar, slip stitch in nextvertical bar and in each vertical bar across.Fasten off.

PANEL BORDERRow 1: With crochet hook and right side facing,join D withslip stitch in lower-right-hand cornerof any panel; working across long edge, chain1, single crochet in corner, single crochet in endstitch of next row; *long dc under 4th afghanstitch bar below next end stitch; skip end stitchbehind long dc, single crochet in end stitch ofnext 3 rows; repeat from * across, ending withsingle crochet in end stitch of last 2 rows – 253stitches. Fasten off. Do not turn.

Row 2:With right side facing, join C withslip stitchin first single crochet, chain 1, single crochet in

back loop of same single crochet, single crochetin back loop of next 2 stitches; *long dc under3rd afghan stitch bar below next stitch, skipstitch behind long dc, single crochet in back loopof next 3 stitches; repeat from * across, endingwith single crochet in back loop of last 5 stitches.Fasten off.Do not turn.

Row 3:With right side facing, join B withslip stitchin first single crochet, chain 1, single crochet inback loop of same single crochet, single crochetin back loop of next 3 stitches; *long dc under2nd afghan stitch bar below next stitch, skipstitch behind long dc, single crochet in back loopof next 3 stitches; repeat from * across, endingwith single crochet in back loop of last 4 stitches.Fasten off.Do not turn.

Row 4:With right side facing, join A withslipstitch in first single crochet, chain 1, singlecrochet in back loop of same single crochet,

single crochet in back loop of next 4 stitches;*long dc under first afghan stitch bar below nextstitch, skip stitch behind long dc, single crochetin back loop of next 3 stitches; repeat from *across. Fasten off.

Work Rows 1-4 of Panel Border across other longedge of same panel. Work Panel Border on bothlong edges of each remaining panel.

JOININGWith lower edge of each panel at same end andright sides facing, join panels along long edgesin following order: D, C, B, A, B, C, D. To joinpanels:Place first two panels side by side. Join Dwithslip stitch in lower-right-hand corner of firstpanel. Working loosely throughout, slip stitch inback loop of same stitch as joining; *slip stitch inback loop of corresponding stitch on second pan-el, slip stitch in back loop of next stitch on firstpanel; repeat from * across. Fasten off.

EDGING

Round 1: With crochet hook and right side fa-cing, join D with slip stitch in upper-right-handcorner; working in stitches of Panel Border andin end stitches of rows along narrow edge; workbeginning joint stitch, chain 1; *work joint stitch,chain 1; repeat from * across to next corner;work cl in corner, chain 1; repeat from * around,working joint stitches in back loop of stitchesalong Panel Border. Join with slip stitch in top ofbeginning joint stitch.Fasten off.

Round 2: Join C with slip stitch in last chain-1space made; work beginning cl; chain 1; *workjoint stitch in same space where last loop wasdrawn up and in next chain-1 space; chain 1; re-peat from * across to next corner, working endof last joint stitch in chain-1 space before next cl;work cl in same space where last loop was drawnup, chain 1, joint stitch in same space where lastloop was drawn up and in next chain-1 spacefor corner, chain 1**; cl in same space wherelast loop was drawn up, chain 1; repeat from *

around, ending final repeat at **. Join with slipstitch in top of beginning cl.Fasten off.

Round 3:With B, work same as Round 2.Round 4:With A, work same as Round 2.Weave in all ends.Enticing Baby Blanket

You can work this pretty blanket up in a varietyof colors to match baby’s nursery. It is worked inthe Entrelac technique and will be about 27 to37 inches when completed. You can make it lar-ger by adding more rounds of squares before youwork the edging triangles.

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/pat-terns/80437AD.html?noImages=

You will need the following quantities of Vanna’sChoice Baby Yarn:

Color A – 2 balls of Little Boy BlueColor B – 2 balls of Sweet PeaColor C – 1 ball of DuckieColor D – 1 ball of Berrylicious

You will also need a US size I/9 crochet hook, clipon stitch markers, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is one square equals 1 ½ inches. The firstrow is worked with eight squares andthe follow-ing rows are workedaround it.

Row One Squares (make 8)With A, chain 6.Row 1 (RS): Working in back "bumps" of chainonly, single crochet in 2nd chain from hook,

(chain 1, skip next chain, single crochet in nextchain) twice - 3 single crochet and 2 chain-1spaces.Rows 2-5:Chain 1, turn, single crochet in firstsingle crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space,single crochet in next single crochet) twice.Fasten off.

Row Two Squares (make and join 7 squares)Note: Squares are now joined to the previousrow of squares as you work, as shown in dia-gram. Work proceeds down the side of oneSquare and joins to the stitches of the last row ofthe next Square.

First SquareWith RS facing, draw up a loop of B in end oflast row of one Row One Square. Position anoth-er Row One Square with RS facing and ready towork in thestitches of the last row.Row 1:Working in ends of rows alongside of cur-rent Row One Square,chain 1, single crochet insame space asjoin, (chain 1, skipnext row, single

crochet in end of next row) twice;slip stitch infirst single crochet of next Row One Square.

Row 2: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first singlecrochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, singlecrochet in next single crochet) twice.

Row 3: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first singlecrochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, singlecrochet in next single crochet) twice; working institches of next Row One Square,skip next singlecrochet, slip stitch in next single crochet.

Rows 4 and 5:Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Next SquarePosition another Row One Square with RS facingand ready to work in thestitchesof the last row(this is now the new 'next' Square). Note:The'current' Square is always the Square into whichthe laststitch was worked.

Row 1: Working in ends of rows along side of cur-rent Row One Square, chain 1, single crochet inend of first row, (chain 1, skip next row, singlecrochet in end of next row) twice; slip stitch infirst single crochet of next Row One Square.

Rows 2-5: Rep Rows 2-5 of First Square.Continue arranging Row One Squares, makingand joining Row Two Squares as established, un-til 7 Row Two Squares have been made andjoined to the 8 Row One Squares.Fasten off.

Row Three Squares (make and join 8 squares)With RS facing, join A with slip stitchin tip of firstA-colored Square two rows below, chain 6.First SquareRow 1 (RS): Working in back "bumps" of chainonly, single crochet in 2nd chain from hook,(chain 1, skip next chain, single crochet in nextchain) twice;slip stitch in end of first row of nextRow Two Square.

Row 2: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first singlecrochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, singlecrochet in next single crochet) twice.

Row 3: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first singlecrochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, singlecrochet in next single crochet) twice;working inends of rowsalongside of next Row Two Square,skip next row,slip stitch in end of next row.Rows 4 and 5: Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Next SquareRow 1: Working in stitchesof last row of currentRow Two Square,chain 1, single crochet in firstsingle crochet, (chain 1, skip nextchain-1 space,single crochet in next single crochet) twice; slipstitch in end of first row of next Row Two Square.

Rows 2-5: Rep Rows 2-5 of First Square.Continue as established, until 7 Row ThreeSquares have been made and joined to the 7Row Two Squares.

Last SquareNext Row: Working in stitches of last row of cur-rent Square, chain 1, single crochet in first singlecrochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, singlecrochet in next single crochet) twice.

Next 4 Rows: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in firstsingle crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space,single crochet in next single crochet) twice.Fasten off.

Row Four Squares (make and join 7 squares)First SquareWith RS facing, draw up a loop of B in first singlecrochet of first Row Three Square.

Row 1:Chain 1, single crochet in same singlecrochetas join, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space,single crochet in next single crochet) twice; slipstitchin end of first row of next Row ThreeSquare.

Row 2: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first singlecrochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, singlecrochet in next single crochet) twice.

Row 3: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first singlecrochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, singlecrochet in next single crochet) twice; workingin ends of rows alongside of next Row ThreeSquare, skip next row, slip stitch in end of nextrow.

Rows 4 and 5: Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Next SquareRow 1: Working in stitchesof last row of currentRow Three Square, chain 1, single crochet in firstsingle crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space,single crochet in next single crochet) twice; slipstitch in end of first row of next Row ThreeSquare.

Rows 2-5: Rep Rows 2-5 of First Square.Continueas established, until 7 Row Four Squares have

been made and joined to the 8 Row ThreeSquares. Fasten off.

Rows Five-Twenty-Seven SquaresWith A, make and join Row Five Squares as forRow Three Squares.With B, make and join Row Six Squares as forRow Four Squares.Continue making and joining rows of squares asestablished, alternating A and B rows.BorderWith RS facing, join D with single crochet in tip ofany square along edge of Blanket.Round 1: Working in stitches,ends of rows, oralong opposite side of foundation chains(asneeded), work and join squares around edges ofBlanket as established; working corner squaresas follows: chain6, single crochet in 2nd chainfrom hook, (chain 1, skip next chain, singlecrochet in next chain) twice, slip stitch in firstsingle crochet (or end of row) of current LastRow Square; *chain 1, turn, single crochet in firstsingle crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space,

single crochet in next single crochet) twice; repfrom * once more; working in stitches (or ends ofrows) current Last Row Square, skip next chain-1space, slip stitch in next single crochet; rep from* once more (corner square made); join with slipstitch in first single crochet.Fasten off.

Round 2: With B, rep Round 1.

Round 3: With C, rep Round 1.

Round 4: Join A with single crochet in edge offirst row (in the "valley") of any Square imme-diately following a corner Square, skip next row,(single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in end ofnext row, skip next 2 rows, (single crochet, chain3, single crochet) in top corner single crochet,skip next chain-1 space, (single crochet, chain 2,single crochet) in next single crochet, skip nextchain-1 space, single crochet in last singlecrochet; *single crochet in end of first row ofnext Square, skip next row, (single crochet, chain

2, single crochet) in end of next row, skip next2 rows, (single crochet, chain 3, single crochet)in top corner single crochet, skip next chain-1space, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet)in next single crochet, skip next chain-1 space,single crochet in last single crochet; rep from *across to next corner Square; working along op-posite side of foundation chain, single crochet infirst chain, skip next chain, (single crochet, chain2, single crochet) in next chain, skip next 2 chain,(single crochet, chain 3, single crochet) in endof first row, skip next row, (single crochet, chain2, single crochet) in end of next row, skip next2 rows, (single crochet, chain 3, single crochet)in top corner single crochet, skip next chain-1space, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet)in next single crochet, skip next chain-1 space,single crochet in last single crochet; rep from *around; join with slip stitch in first single crochet.Fasten off. Weave in ends.Tunisian Wrap

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/tunisian-wrap.html

This beautiful wrap is crocheted with a circularTunisian crochet hook. These hooks have crochethooks on both ends and are connected with aplastic piece that lets you hold a lot of stitches.The wrap will be about 22 inches wide by 70inches long when completed.

You will need 1 skein of the main color, and 1skein of a contrasting color. The pattern shown isworked in Caron Simply Soft yarn in a solid colorand Caron Simply Soft paints for the contrasting

color. You will also need a 24 inch circular Tunisi-an crochet hook and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is 15 Tks (Tunisian knit stitches) and 8rows equal 5 ½ inches.

With Afghan/Tunisian hook and B, chain 68.

Row 1 (RS):With B,Forward Pass: Insert hook in 2nd chain fromhook and draw up a loop, *insert hook in nextchain and draw up a loop;repeat from * across—68 loops on hook.Return Pass:Yarn over and draw through firstloop on hook, *yarn over and draw through 2loops on hook;repeat from * across—1 loop remains on hook.

Rows 2–8: With B,Forward Pass: Skip first vertical bar (at edge), Tksacross, working last stitch as Tss.Return Pass: Work return pass.Fasten off B. Join A.

Row 9:With A,Forward Pass: Chain 1 (counts as first Tdoublestitch), skip first vertical bar, Tdouble stitch, yarnover, skip next vertical bar, [Tdouble stitch] twice,*yarn over, skip

next vertical bar, [Tdouble stitch] twice; repeatfrom * across—68 loops on hook (consisting of46 Tdouble stitch and 22 yarn over-spaces).Note: During return pass the yarn over-loopsareworked the same as all other loops on hook.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Rows 10–12: With A,Forward Pass: Chain 1 (counts as first Tdoublestitch), skip first stitch, Tdouble stitch, yarn over,skip next yarn over-space, [Tdouble stitch] twice,*yarn over, skip next yarn overspace,[Tdouble stitch ] twice; repeat from * across.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 13: With A,Forward Pass: Skip first stitch, Tks across, work-ing last stitch as Tss.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Rows 14–16: With A, Forward Pass: Skip first ver-tical bar, Tks across, working last stitch as Tss.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Rows 17–20: Repeat Rows 9–12.

Rows 21–92:Repeat Rows 13–20 nine moretimes.Fasten off A. Join B.

Rows 93–100:With B, repeat rows 13–16 twomore times.

Row 101: Chain 1, single crochet in each stitchacross. Fasten off.

Round 1 (RS): With RS facing, join B with slipstitch in last single crochet made, chain 1, (singlecrochet, chain 1, single crochet) in same singlecrochet (corner made);

working across side edge, chain 1, skip nextstitch, *single crochet in next stitch, chain 1, skipnext stitch*;repeat from * to * across to nextcorner, (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet) incorner; working across lower edge, chain 1, re-peat from * to * across to next corner, (singlecrochet, chain1, single crochet) in corner; working across 2ndside, chain 1, repeat from * to * across to nextcorner, (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet) incorner;working across top, chain 1, repeat from * to *across; join with slip stitch in first single crochet.Fasten off.

Ruffle EdgeWith RS facing, join A with slip stitch in chain-1space of any corner, to work across a short edge.Row 1: Note: To work Tunisian stitches intostandard crochet stitches (single crochet), inserthook under top two loops of the stitch andwork the Tunisian stitch as usual.

Forward Pass: Chain 1 (does not count as aTdouble stitch here and throughout), Tdoublestitch in next single crochet, yarn over, skip nextchain-1 space, *Tdouble stitch innext single crochet, yarn over, skip next chain-1space; repeat from * across to next corner work-ing last Tdouble stitch in first single crochet ofcorner—35 Tdouble stitch.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 2:Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarnover, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over,skip next stitch] twice;repeat from * acrossto last 2 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarn over,Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, yarn over, skip nextstitch, Tdouble stitch—47 Tdouble stitch.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 3:Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarn

over, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over,skip next stitch] 3 times;repeat from *across to last 3 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over,skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] twice—59Tdouble stitch.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 4:Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarnover, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over,skip next stitch] 4 times;repeat from *across to last 4 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over,skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] 3 times—71Tdouble stitch.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 5:Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarn

over, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over,skip next stitch] 5 times;repeat from *across to last 5 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over,skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] 4 times—83Tdouble stitch.Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 6:Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarnover, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over,skip next stitch] 6 times;repeat from *across to last 6 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarnover, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over,skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] 5 times—95Tdouble stitch.Return Pass: Work return pass.Fasten off.Work ruffle edge across other shortedge.

FINISHING

Using yarn needle, weave in ends.Block gently, ifdesired.

Attributions

All of the patterns I have included in this book thatare not mine can be found for free on the internet.I have given credit to the original designers whereI could, and the attributions for the images I usein this book can be found at the end of this book.Many thanks go out to the wonderful designersand teachers who have help add to the wonderfulcontent in this book they have shared for free.

All images shared from Flickr are shared underthe Creative Commons License. All images for pat-terns can be found at the pattern link provided inthe text.

Images

Crochet Symbol Charthttp://www.craftyarncouncil.com/chart_crochet.htmlImage from the Craft Yarn Council

Heart Patternhttp://www.dmc-usa.com/Education/Technique-Overviews/Crochet/Crochet-Pattern-Instructions.aspxImage from DMC USA Tutorials

Granny Square Charthttp://www.craftyminx.com/2011/11/crochet-school-lesson-21-reading-crochet-charts.htmlImage from Craft Minx Blog

Chart in the Round and Squarehttp://www.thebestknittersguide.com/2010/11/reading-chart-crochet-instructions.htmlImage from The Best Knitter’s Guide

Heart Graphhttp://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2012/03/crocheting-from-graph.htmlImage from Crochet Kitten

Intarsia Heart

https://www.flickr.com/photos/22810456@N07/2339962909Image shared on Flickr by pietrukb

Farm Friends Blankethttps://www.flickr.com/photos/35640661@N03/5607771311Image shared on Flickr by Amber

Tapestry Color Changehttp://iweb.tntech.edu/cventura/right-stitches.htmlImage from Carol Ventura’s Online tutorial

Small Crochet Baghttps://www.flickr.com/photos/26150164@N02/5989470363Image shared on Flickr by Lucie

Fair Isle Jumper Right Sidehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/beanaboos/2866068709Image shared on Flickr by beanaboos

Fair Isle Jumper Wrong Sidehttps://www.flickr.com/photos/beanaboos/2866068723Image shared on Flickr by beanaboos

Entrelac Blankethttps://www.flickr.com/photos/87505752@N03/14581126064Image shared on Flickr by Nicole Johnson7

Spine of the Chainhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWsStill from How to Entrelac Crochet by TheCrochet Crowd at 6:49

First row of Entrelac Crochethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWsStill from How to Entrelac Crochet by TheCrochet Crowd at 7:19 and 8:08

Color Change on Entrelac Crochethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWsStill from How to Entrelac Crochet by TheCrochet Crowd at 15:13, 15:52, and 18:25

Straight Edge on Entrelac Crochethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWsStill from How to Entrelac Crochet by TheCrochet Crowd at 35:47

Tunisian Crochet Hook Sethttp://www.amazon.com/Multicolour-Aluminum-TUNISIAN-Crochet-Needles/dp/B00BLZ3WCG/re-f=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417457394&sr=8-1&keywords=tunisian+crochet+hooks+setImage from Amazon

Bamboo Tunisian Crochet Hookshttp://www.amazon.com/Tunisian-Carbonized-3-0-10-0mm--With-Adjoined-Flex-

ibility/dp/B008OBFL92/re-f=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1417457394&sr=8-12&keywords=tunisian+crochet+hooks+setImage from Amazon

Broomstick Lace Stepshttp://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/26/how-to-crochet-broomstick-lace/Lion Brand Yarn Blog

Broomstick Lace Fabrichttps://www.flickr.com/photos/46858275@N07/4299569069Image shared on Flickr by singlestitches

Tunisian Exampleshttp://www.purlbee.com/2013/04/13/tunisian-crochet-basics/comment-page-1/#comment-49010Images from Purl Bee Tunisian Crochet Tutorial

Freeform Crochethttps://www.flickr.com/photos/moonrhythm/695882291

Image shared on Flickr by ss

Freeform Hathttps://www.flickr.com/photos/knitsteel/8064692073Image shared on Flickr by Kirsten Skiles

Freeform Denim Jackethttps://www.flickr.com/photos/noricum/254419076Image shared on Flickr by Noricum

Freeform Scarfhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/77297780@N08/7256306846Image shared on Flickr by Jeanette248

Bullion Stitch Exampleshttp://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-bullion-stitch/Images from Crochet Spot Blog Tutorial

Spiral Example

http://snovej.com/archives/freeform-crochet-spiralImage from Snovej Blog Tutorial

Nautical Shellhttp://snovej.com/archives/freeform-crochet-basics-part-5-the-nautilus-shellImage from Snovej Bog Tutorial

Surface Crochethttps://www.flickr.com/photos/jacquedavis/4602728530Image shared on Flickr by Jacques Davis

Videos

How to Read Afghan Crochet Graph PatternChartshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtZIJiVXMbcJennifer Greenfield

Basic Intarsia Techniquehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xhm6WK5cqxU&list=PLbYXtSSiwjuoaCOMHUaLpNM1Oa1-QOcbkCrochet Ever After

Fair Isle Crochethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r98K2d7hzCwCrochet Ever After

DIY Learn How to Crochet Broomstick LaceBlankethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRRcbQ9kPXsNaztazia

Learn How to Crochet – Broomstick Lace Scarfhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzzlVMwewnYNaztazia

Lesson 1: Tunisian Crochet - Overview & Tips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYGJlLSTotkThe Crochet Crowd

Lesson 2: Getting Started with Tunisian Crochethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxKWw0SCetMThe Crochet Crowd

Learn How to Tunisian Crochethttp://www.redheart.com/learn/videos/learn-how-make-tunisian-knit-stitch-knit-crochetRed Heart

How to Freeform Crochet Serieshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TA-qNKi-uKv0Sheruknittingcom

How to Surface Crochethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ8FI5PJfvkMoogly

Resources

PDF Link for Crochet Symbol Charthttp://media.craftyarncouncil.com/files/CYCACrochetChartSymbols.pdf

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