i

Excerpts from -

THE CENTURY f ILLUSTRATED f ® MONTHLY®

MAGAZINE

PIONEER SPANISH FAMILIES IN CALIFORNIA

by Charles Howard Shinn

and

THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA

by John T. Doyle

excerpts from

The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine

1896

PUBLISHED BY W. T. GENNS - SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA

C A L I F O R N I A S T A T E L I B R A S ? ?

PIONEER SPANISH FAMILIES IN CALIFORNIA.

W I T H S P E C I A L 5

I

D O N A R T U R O R A K D I N I I N T H E O L D S I ' A M S H R I D I N G D R E S S

O K . M I S F A T H E R .

T H E m o s t at tract ive l i terary mater ia l left in J- Cal i fornia is to b e found in the reco l lec­

tions a n d tradit ions o f d e s c e n d a n t s o f the pio­n e e r Spanish families. B u t these m e n a n d w o m e n m u s t b e m e t with s y m p a t h y for their misfortunes, a n d with a n u n f e i g n e d interest in the o ld r a n c h a n d M i s s i o n d a y s . A s s o o n as their conf idence is fairly w o n t h e y tell all t h e y k n o w , with a lmost ch i ld l ike eagerness to

N C E T O T H E V A L L E J O S .

h e l p in the restoration of the past. O n e im­m e d i a t e l y observes the great stress la id u p o n family c o n n e c t i o n s , the pleasure t a k e n in sto­ries o f former t imes, a n d the especia l rever­e n c e for the founders of the p r o v i n c e , t h e g o v ­ernors a n d other officials, a n d the h e a d s o f the Miss ions . Pol i t ics , t h o u g h of course o n an ex­t remely small scale , o c c u p i e s a large p a r t o f the r e c o l l e c t i o n s of the older m e n , a n d the animosit ies o f the petty revolut ions o f h a l f a c e n t u r y a g o , o f the years just before the A m e r i ­c a n c o n q u e s t , a n d o f the c o n q u e s t itself, still d i v i d e families from e a c h other. A g l a n c e at the subjo ined list o f the g o v e r n o r s o f C a l i ­fornia wil l s h o w the reader h o w closely uni ted w e r e t h e social a n d polit ical features of the life o f the p r o v i n c e . A t first the g o v e r n o r s h a d m u c h p o w e r ; the great families w e r e h a r d l y established in their a lmost feudal re lat ions to the s o i l : a n d the l o n g terms o f o f f i c e , — four­teen y e a r s in o n e c a s e , — a n d t h e p e a c e f u l pro­gress o f events , s h o w that it w a s the a g e o f sett lement. A s the M e x i c a n r e v o l u t i o n o f 1835 a p p r o a c h e d the C a l i f o m i a n s g r e w rest ive a n d g a v e their g o v e r n o r s m o r e a n d m o r e t r o u b l e ; at last e v e r y n o t e d r a n c h e r o family h a d a differ­ent c a n d i d a t e for the g o v e r n o r s h i p , a n d that " y e a r o f r e v o l u t i o n s , " 1 8 3 6 , s a w four succes­sive o c c u p a n t s o f the office. P i c o s , C a s t r o s , A l v a r a d o s , a n d a d o z e n other famil ies, with

3 7 S PIONEER SPANISH FAMILIES

D O N J C A N B . C A S T R O .

their a d h e r e n t s a n d re la t ives , w e r e s t r u g g l i n g for soc ia l a n d pol i t ica l s u p r e m a c y . 1

T h e g r e a t families o f the Spanish p i o n e e r p e r i o d h a v e most ly representat ives at the pres­e n t d a y ; s o m e o f t h e m h a v e r e t a i n e d w e a l t h a n d inf luence, especia l ly i n the southern c o u n ­ties. D o n R o m u a l d o P a c h e c o , w h o s e m o t h e r w a s R a m o n a Carr i l lo , b e c a m e State senator , l i e u t e n a n t - g o v e r n o r , a n d o n e o f the leaders o f t h e R e p u b l i c a n party . T h e g r a n d s o n o f C a p t a i n A n t o n i o de l V a i l e , w h o c a m e from M e x i c o to Cal i fornia in 1 8 1 9 , is n o w o n e o f t h e m o s t p r o m i n e n t pol i t ic ians in the State. D o n J u a n B . C a s t r o h a s h e l d m a n y of f ices 'of trust a n d profit in M o n t e r e y C o u n t y . D o n I g n a c i o S e p u l v e d a , a t h o r o u g h l y e d u c a t e d l a w y e r , m a r r i e d a n A m e r i c a n wife , a n d w a s l o n g a superior j u d g e in L o s A n g e l e s . A n u m b e r o f similar cases m i g h t b e m e n t i o n e d in w h i c h i n d i v i d u a l s o f the c o n q u e r e d r a c e h a v e f o u n d their o p p o r t u n i t y in t h e m a t e r i a l de­v e l o p m e n t o f t h e Pac i f ic c o a s t . Still, these w e r e b u t e x c e p t i o n s • m o s t o f t h e o l d families s a n k into obscuri ty , a n d i t is n o w difficult to t race their c o n n e c t i o n s . O n l y a b o u t thirty Spanish families o f C a l i f o r n i a h a v e reta ined a n y w e a l t h or inf luence.

A m o n g the families o f the first r a n k as re­g a r d s w e a l t h , in f luence , -d igni ty , a n d p r i d e of b ir th w e r e the C a s t r o s , P i c o s , A r g u e l l o s , B a n -dinis , Carr i l los , A l v a r a d o s , V a l l e j o s , A v i l a s , O r t e g a s , N o r i e g a s , P e r a l t a s , S e p u l v e d a s , P a -c h e c o s , Y o r b a s , a n d their n u m e r o u s c o n n e c -

l The Spanish and Mexican governors of California and the dates of their accession were as follows: Gaspar dePortola, 1 7 6 7 ; FelipedeBarri, 1 7 7 1 ; FelipedeNeve, 1 7 7 4 ; Pedro Fages, 1 7 8 2 ; Jose Antonio Romen, 1 7 9 0 ; Jose J . de Arrillaga, 1 7 9 2 ; Diego de Borica, 1 7 9 4 ; Jose J . de Arrillaga, 1 8 0 0 ; Jose Dario Arguello, 1 S 1 4 ; Pablo

tions. T h e E s t r a d a s , for instance , w e r e rela­t ives o f the A l v a r a d o s , a n d D o n Jose A b r e g o , o f M o n t e r e y , treasurer o f the p r o v i n c e from 1839 t o 1 8 4 6 , m a r r i e d a n E s t r a d a . T h i s m a d e the A b r e g o s al l ies o f the A l v a r a d o s . D o n Jose ' s s o n m a r r i e d a d a u g h t e r o f J a c o b P. L e e s e , the A m e r i c a n , son-in- law of G e n e r a l V a l l e j o ; his d a u g h t e r m a r r i e d J u d g e W e b b of S a l i n a s : the A l v a r a d o - V a l l e j o c o n n e c t i o n h a d d r a w n the A b r e g o s t o w a r d s the A m e r i c a n s . T h e f o u n d e r o f t h e A l v a r a d o family w a s J u a n B . , a settler o f 1 7 6 9 , w h o s e son J o s e w a s s e r g e a n t at M o n t e r e y , a n d w h o s e g r a n d s o n w a s the g o v ­ernor. T h e m o t h e r o f the g o v e r n o r w a s M a r i a J o s e f a V a l l e j o ; his wife w a s M a r t i n a C a s t r o . T h e f o u n d e r o f the A r g u e l l o family w r as D o n J o s e D a r i o , w h o a r r i v e d in 1 7 8 1 ; his wife w a s a d a u g h t e r o f t h e M o r a g a s . a n d their c h i l d r e n intermarr ied w i t h the best families of the p r o v ­i n c e . O n e d a u g h t e r w a s the f a m o u s M a r i a d e l a C o n c e p c i o n M a r c e l a , b o r n in 1 7 9 0 , a n d re­m e m b e r e d b e c a u s e of her r o m a n c e , o f w h i c h B r e t H a r t e h a s t o l d the story. T h e r e is little to a d d to the out l ines o f the p o e m , e x c e p t that t h e ta le o f the l a d y C o n c e p c i o n A r g u e l l o is famil iar to al l the Spanish families, a n d o n e often hears it used to i l lustrate the ' : s i m p l e faith o f the a n c i e n t d a y s . " O n e o f t h e ladies o f t h e V a l l e j o family ret ired to a c o n v e n t . T h e l a d y A p o l i n a r i a L o r e n z a n a , o f S a n t a B a r b a r a a n d S a n D i e g o , w h o s e l o v e r d i e d , d e v o t e d h e r

D O N M A N U E L C A S T R O .

life t o t e a c h i n g a n d to char i ty , a n d w a s k n o w n for h a l f a c e n t u r y as "La Beata" to w h o m all d o o r s w e r e o p e n a n d all sorrows b r o u g h t . S h e

Vicente de Sola, 1 8 1 5 ; Luis Antonio Arguello, 1 8 2 3 ; Jose Maria de Echeandia, 1 8 2 5 ; Manuel Victoria, 1 8 3 1 ; Pio Pico, 1 8 3 2 ; Jose Figueroa, 1833 ; Jose Cas­tro, 1 8 3 5 ; Nicolas Gutierrez, 1 S 3 6 ; Mariano Chico, 1 8 3 6 ; Nicolas Gutierrez, 1 8 3 6 ; Juan B. Alvarado, 1 8 3 6 ; Manuel Micheltorena, 1 8 4 2 ; Pio Pico, 1 8 4 5 .

IN CALIFORNIA. 3 7 9

p l a n t e d the famous g r a p e v i n e o f M o n t e c i t o , l o n g k n o w n as the largest in the w o r l d , a n d b e a r i n g six t h o u s a n d clusters in a s ingle season.

P I O P I C O , G O V E R N O R O F C A L I F O R N I A I N 1S45.

( F R O M A P H O T O G R A P H B Y B U T T E R F 1 E L U Si S U M M E R S . )

T h e r e w e r e other w o m e n as w o r t h y o f saint-sh ip , o f w h o m the elders still s p e a k .

T h e w e l l - k n o w n family o f P i c o w a s f o u n d e d in 1 7 8 2 , b y D o n J o s e M a r i a , t h e father o f the g o v e r n o r . T h e northern b r a n c h o f this family s p r a n g from D o n Jose D o l o r e s , w h o arr ived in 1 7 9 0 . T h e first o f the S o t o s w a s D o n I g -n a c i o , a p i o n e e r o f 1 7 7 6 ; a n d the M o r a g a fami ly d a t e from the s a m e year , their founder b e i n g C o m a n d a n t e J o s e J o a q u i n , o f S a n F r a n ­c i s c o Pres id io a n d San J o s e P u e b l o . A large a n d p r o m i n e n t L o s A n g e l e s family , that o f t h e A v i l a s , w a s f o u n d e d b y C o r n e l i o A v i l a in 1 7 8 3 . A l c a l d e A v i l a w a s k i l l e d in t h e rev­o l u t i o n o f 1 8 3 6 . S e v e r a l d a u g h t e r s m a r r i e d A m e r i c a n s . T h e L u g o s are often s p o k e n o f in histories. T h e y d e s c e n d f r o m a M e x i c a n soldier , F r a n c i s c o L u g o , w h o a r r i v e d in 1 7 6 9 , t h e d a t e w h i c h ranks a m o n g Spanish C a l i -fornians as 1849 does a m o n g A m e r i c a n p io­n e e r s . H i s four d a u g h t e r s m a r r i e d into the four p r o m i n e n t families o f R u i z , C o t a , V a l l e j o , a n d C a r r i l l o . T h e t o w n of M a r t i n e z , n e a r M o n t e D i a b l o , takes its n a m e from the M a r t i n e z fami ly , w h o s e founder w a s a n ear ly a l c a l d e of S a n F r a n c i s c o , a n d three o f w h o s e d a u g h t e r s m a r r i e d A m e r i c a n s . A far later arr ival w a s t h e J i m e n o family, one o f w h o m w a s G o v e r n o r

A l v a r a d o ' s Secretary o f State , w h o s e w i d o w b e c a m e the wife o f D r . O r d , a n d w h o s e t w o sons w e r e taken to the A t l a n t i c States b y L i e u ­t e n a n t S h e r m a n in 1850 to b e e d u c a t e d . A n int imate friend of this famous secretary w a s D o n J o s e M . R o m e r o , the m o s t w i d e l y k n o w n t e a c h e r a n d a u t h o r o f the p r o v i n c e , w h o w r o t e ' a n d p r i nt e d the " C a t e c i s m o de O r t o l o g i a " a t M o n t e r e y in 1 8 3 6 , a n d establ ished a n a d v a n c e d s c h o o l , the b e s t in Cal i fornia until the d a y s of E n r i q u e C a m b u s t o n a n d J o s e M a r i a C a m p i n a , w h o m G o v e r n o r A l v a r a d o b r o u g h t f rom M e x i c o .

T h e B a n d i n i s d e s c e n d e d from a n A n d a l u -sian family o f h i g h rank, a n d w e r e in Ca l i fornia b y 1 7 7 1 . O l d C a p t a i n J o s e B a n d i n i was the first to raise t h e M e x i c a n f lag, w h i c h h e d i d o n the ship Rei/ia, a t San B i a s , in 1 8 2 1 . H i s s o n J u a n m a r r i e d D o l o r e s E s t u d i l l o , a n d , after h e r d e a t h , R e f u g i o A r g u e l l o , a n d w a s v e r y p r o m i n e n t in the p r o v i n c e from 1825 to 1 8 4 5 . T h e extens ive Carr i l lo family a n d also t h e g r e a t O r t e g a fami ly date their Ca l i forn ian r e c o r d f rom 1 7 6 9 . T h e O r t e g a s f o u n d e d S a n t a B a r b a r a . T h e Carr i l los in the s e c o n d genera­t ion m a r r i e d into the V a l l e j o s , C a s t r o s , P a c h e -cos , a n d m a n y other p r o u d families. A t t h e t ime o f the c o n q u e s t they h a d c o n n e c t i o n s in e v e r y p a r t o f the p r o v i n c e . T h e la te J u d g e C o v a r r u b i a s , o f S a n t a B a r b a r a , o n e o f the m o s t p r o m i n e n t jurists o f Southern Cal i fornia , w a s c o n n e c t e d b y m a r r i a g e w i t h t h e Carr i l los . C a p t a i n N o r i e g a , o f S a n t a B a r b a r a , a lso m a r ­ried a Carr i l lo , a n d w h e n h e died, in 1 8 5 8 , h e left m o r e t h a n a h u n d r e d d e s c e n d a n t s . T h e r e w e r e l a r g e families in those d a y s o f s imple ,

G E N E R A L A N D R E S P I C O .

( F R O M A P H O T O G R A P H I N P O S S E S S I O N O F P I O P I C O . )

PIOXEER SP.LV/S// FAMILIES

h e a l t h y o u t d o o r l i fe : o n e often reads in the old d o c u m e n t s of from t w e l v e tu t w e n t y sons a n d d a u g h t e r s of the s a m e parents . 1 )on Cr is­tobal D o m i n g u e z . w h o o w n e d the L a s V i r -g e n e s r a n c h , left fourteen l iv ing ch i ldren , a n d one h u n d r e d and ten l iv ing d e s c e n d a n t s .

T h e founders of the early families c a m e from

M A R I A D E J E S U S V A L L E J O ( S I S T E R M A R I A T E R E S A ) .

all parts o f the Spanish d o m i n i o n s . T h e C a s -tros w e r e from Sinaloa, a n d so w e r e the L u g o s . O l d D o n A g u i r r e , a w e a l t h y s h i p - o w n e r a n d m e r c h a n t , w h o first c a m e in his vessel the Guipusauvia, w a s a B a s q u e , a n d his family is still represented in San D i e g o a n d S a n t a B a r ­b a r a . A n o t h e r B a s q u e p i o n e e r w a s D o n J o s e A m e s t i , a r o u g h , honest fel low, a l c a l d e o f M o n t e r e y , a n d afterwards the g o v e r n o r ' s sec­retary, w h o marr ied P r u d e n c i a V a l l e j o . G e n ­eral C a s t r o o n c e told me that D o n J o s e " w o u l d e v e n say ' c a r a j o ' before his c h i l d r e n , " a

t h i n g w h i c h " a s t o n i s h e d all his fr iends," for it w a s n o t s e e m l y ; n o other Cal i fornian did so. T h e officer w h o f o u n d e d Branci forte . C o l o n e l P e d r o A l b e r t i a , w a s a C a t a l a n . T h e first o f t h e A l v i s o s , t h e V a l e n c i a s , a n d the P e r a l t a s w e r e from S o n o r a . J o s e M a r i a n o Boni l la , f rom the city o f M e x i c o , w a s o n e o f the first l a w y e r s in

the p r o v i n c e . T h e V a c a s , d c -' " 7 ^ s c e n d a n t s o f the f a m o u s con-

quistadorc C a p t a i n V a c a , w h o : w a s u n d e r C o r t e z , c a m e from

N e w M e x i c o . D o n M a n u e l : -• R e q u e n a o f L o s A n g e l e s c a m e

to Ca l i fornia from Y u c a t a n . T h e Sunols , w h o o w n e d o n e o f the most beauti ful o f v a l l e y s , w e r e from Spain , a n d t h e sons w e r e sent to Paris to b e e d u -

• c a t e d . L i e u t e n a n t Y a l d e z , w h o

• • . w a s in the M a l a s p i n a e x p e -di t ion o f 1 7 9 1 . r e t u r n e d t o

:... ." •< E u r o p e a n d w a s k i l led at Traf -• " ' " j ; ^ ; " a lgar . T h i s n o t e d e x p e d i t i o n ,

u n d e r A l e j a n d r o M a l a s p i n a , cons is ted of t w o roya l c o r v e t t e s o f S p a i n , w h i c h left C a d i z in 1 7 8 9 , r e a c h e d C a l i f o r n i a in 1 7 9 1 , a n d w e n t a r o u n d t h e w o r l d . I n w a y s l ike these, a n d from a t h o u s a n d c h a n n e l s o f c o m m e r c e a n d a d v e n t u r e , e v e r y p r o v i n c e o f Spain a n d M e x i c o b e c a m e represented a m o n g t h e p i o n e e r families o f C a l i f o r n i a .

T H E V a l l e j o family t r a c e s its d e s c e n t f rom soldiers a n d n o b l e s o f the h e r o i c d a y s o f S p a i n , a n d is as wel l k n o w n in t h e m o t h e r c o u n t r y as in C a l i ­fornia. A c o p y of t h e g e n e a ­l o g i c a l r e c o r d o f the fami ly , w h i c h h a s b e e n k e p t wi th g r e a t p r e c i s i o n , w a s filed in 1S06 in the Spanish a r c h i v e s of A l t a C a l i f o r n i a . I t states that D o n A l o n z o V a l l e j o c o m m a n d e d t h e Spanish troops o n b o a r d t h e vessel w h i c h b r o u g h t t h e

r o y a l c o m m i s s i o n e r B o b a d i l l a to A m e r i c a with orders to carry C o l u m b u s a prisoner to S p a i n . A n o t h e r f a m o u s V a l l e j o w a s a c a p t a i n u n d e r C o r t e z , f o l l o w e d that i l lustrious c u t t h r o a t to the c o m p l e t e c o n q u e s t o f M e x i c o , a n d b e c a m e g o v e r n o r o f the p r o v i n c e o f P a n u c o , l o r d o f g r e a t s i lver mines , a n d master o f p e o n s i n n u ­m e r a b l e .

B i l b a o , the a n c i e n t capi ta l o f B u r g o s , S p a i n , w a s the p l a c e f rom w h i c h the b r a n c h o f the V a l l e j o s t h a t is k n o w n in Ca l i fornia s tarted for the N e w W o r l d . O f this b r a n c h c a m e D o n

IN CALIFORNIA. 3 8 i

T H E M O T H E R O F G E N E R A L V A L L E J O , B O R N

M A R I A A N T O N I A L U G O .

I g n a c i o V i c e n t e V a l l e j o , b o r n in 1 7 4 8 , in the city o f G u a d a l a x a r a , M e x i c o , a n d d e s i g n e d , as w e r e m a n y o f the family b e f o r e h i m , for h o l y orders a n d the serv ice o f the C h u r c h . T h e y o u n g m a n r e b e l l e d , v o l u n t e e r e d u n d e r C a p t a i n R i ­v e r a y M o n c a d a in P a d r e J u n i p e r o Serra 's fa­m o u s e x p e d i t i o n , l a n d i n g at S a n D i e g o in 1 7 6 9 , a n d t h u s b e c a m e a p i o n e e r a m o n g t h e S p a n ­ish p i o n e e r s t h e m s e l v e s . H e s o o n b e c a m e p r o m i n e n t in the c o l o n y , a n d w a s n o t o n l y m a d e mi l i tary c o m m a n d e r o f v a r i o u s t o w n s , b u t w a s l o n g the only c iv i l e n g i n e e r in the p r o v i n c e , l a y i n g out most o f the greater irri­

g a t i o n w o r k s o f the Miss ions a n d p u e b l o s , a n d b e c o m i n g the o w n e r of extensive a n d v a l u a b l e estates.

D o n I g n a c i o ' s e n g a g e m e n t a n d m a r r i a g e are n o t e d in m o s t o f the chronic les o f the p e ­r iod. T h e g r e a t Miss ions were b e i n g f o u n d e d , a n d , o u t s i d e o f priests a n d Indians , few p e o p l e w e r e i n the c o u n t r y : Cal i fornia, as la te as in the " g o l d e n p r i m e o f ' 4 9 , " w a s a m a s c u l i n e c o m m u n i t y , a n d w o m e n of the better sort w e r e h a r d to find. W h e n , therefore, the y o u n g sol­dier o f fortune saw, at S a n L u i s O b i s p o , in 1 7 7 6 , o n the d a y of h e r birth, an infant d a u g h ­ter o f t h e L u g o family, then as n o w p r o m i n e n t a m o n g the Spanish families o f S o u t h e r n C a l i ­fornia, h e d i d n o t d e l a y his w o o i n g . U s i n g al l the d i g n i t y a n d formality that the ar is tocrat ic gentils de razo?i o f the per iod c o n s i d e r e d es­sential in s u c h matters , h e o b t a i n e d a n inter­v i e w w i t h the p a r e n t s , a n d n e g o t i a t e d a s o l e m n c o n t r a c t o f e n g a g e m e n t wi th the d a y - o l d S e -nori ta M a r i a A n t o n i a L u g o , subject to t h e girl 's future c o n s e n t . S h e g r e w u p to b e a n e x c e e d i n g l y a t t r a c t i v e a n d intel l igent y o u n g w o m a n , a n d i n d u e season t h e y w e r e marr ied . I t p r o v e d a n e x t r e m e l y h a p p y a n d fortunate u n i o n , a n d t h e s u c c e s s o f the f o u n d e r o f t h e V a l l e j o f a m i l y in Cal i fornia in s p e a k i n g for a n infant in arms b e c a m e a lmost a fami ly p r o v e r b f rom S a n D i e g o to S o n o m a . D o n I g ­n a c i o ' s h o m e w a s n o t a b l e , e v e n in that p i o n e e r a g e , for its p a t r i a r c h a l s implicity, a n d h e m a i n ­t a i n e d t o the d a y o f his d e a t h , in 1 8 3 1 , a n o b l e a n d dignif ied l e a d e r s h i p o f the family. S e n o r a V a l l e j o s u r v i v e d h e r h u s b a n d until 1 8 5 1 , a n d a p a i n t i n g m a d e a short t ime before h e r d e a t h s h o w s t h e a l m o s t pur i tanica l sever i ty a n d s trength o f c h a r a c t e r o f this o l d S p a n i s h l a d y of the A r c a d i a n p e r i o d o f Cal i fornia .

N o n e o f t h e Spanish p i o n e e r families h a v e m o r e carefu l ly p r e s e r v e d the tradit ions a n d

382 PIONEER SPANISH FAMILIES

relics o f the past than h a v e the V a l l e j o s . W i t h t h e m , as wi th others, the t ime of greatest pros­peri ty w a s b e t w e e n 1820 a n d 1 8 4 6 . A m o n g the g r e a t families with w h i c h t h e y w e r e c lose ly c o n n e c t e d b y m a r r i a g e or friendship w e r e the D e l a G u e r r a s , w h o s e founder, D o n Jose d e la G u e r r a y N o r i e g a , w a s b o r n in S a n t a n d e r , S p a i n , o f a family w h i c h d a t e s b a c k t o the M o o r i s h w a r s . E a r l y in the century t h e family o w n e d n o fewer t h a n eight large r a n c h e s , a n d as late as 1850 D o n Jose so ld n e a r l y $ 1 0 0 , -000 w o r t h of catt le annual ly , a n d w a s o n e o f the g r e a t m e n o f the pastoral per iod , w i t h h u n ­d r e d s o f h e r d s m e n scat tered o v e r l e a g u e s o f territory. H i s wife, M a r i a A n t o n i a C a r r i l l o , the d a u g h t e r o f D o n R a y m u n d o , o n e o f the first c o m m a n d e r s a t S a n D i e g o a n d S a n t a

of e v e r y visitor. T h e f r e e d o m from c a r e , the o u t d o o r life a n d c o n s t a n t exercise, a n d the per­fect c l i m a t e o f Ca l i fornia h a d re-created the A n d a l u s i a n t y p e o f lovel iness . I n the O r t e g a family, for instance , the w o m e n , w h o al l h a d b r o w n hair a n d e y e s a n d w e r e o f p u r e C a s -tilian s tock , w e r e so r e n o w n e d for their b e a u t y that their f a m e e x t e n d e d to the c i ty o f M e x i c o , a n d G e n e r a l R a m i r e z c a m e from there w i t h letters o f i n t r o d u c t i o n to w i n a d a u g h t e r o f the O r t e g a s . A n o t h e r o f the f a m o u s b e a u t i e s o f h e r d a y w a s the S e n o r a M a r i a I s a b e l C o t a de P i c o , w h o w a s b o r n in 1 7 8 3 a n d d i e d in 1869, l e a v i n g o v e r three h u n d r e d l i v i n g d e ­scendants . S e n o r i t a G u a d a l u p e O r t e g a m a r ­ried y o u n g J o s e p h C h a p m a n , a N e w E n g -l a n d e r w h o l a n d e d on the coast in 1 8 1 8 from

A D O B E H O U S E , S O N O M A , E R E C T E D B V G E N E R A L V A L L E J O , 1S34.

B a r b a r a , w a s ca l led in c o m m o n s p e e c h " that m o s t b e n e v o l e n t l a d y . " T h e s e v e n t h of their e l e v e n chi ldren w a s severa l t imes m a y o r o f S a n t a B a r b a r a . T h e eldest d a u g h t e r m a r r i e d W . P . H a r t n e l l , o f L o n d o n . T h e y o u n g e s t d a u g h t e r , A n t o n i a , afterwards M r s . O r e n a , w a s c a l l e d in h e r d a y the greatest b e a u t y o n the Paci f ic coast .

I t is r e m a r k a b l e h o w m a n y of the d a u g h ­ters o f t h e best families o f the o ld C a l i -fornian t o w n s marr ied A m e r i c a n s a n d E n g ­l i s h m e n o f s tanding . I n the Carr i l lo family four d a u g h t e r s marr ied f o r e i g n e r s ; the O r t e ­g a s , N o r i e g a s , a n d m a n y others s h o w e d a simi­lar r e c o r d . T h e g r a c e , b e a u t y , a n d m o d e s t y o f the w o m e n o f the t ime w e r e the a d m i r a t i o n

the B u e n o s A y r e a n pr ivateer w h i c h B o u c h a r d c o m m a n d e d , a n d w h o w a s c a p t u r e d b y C o r ­pora l L u g o , w h o s e sister m a r r i e d D o n I g n a c i o V a l l e j o . W i t h true Spanish hospita l i ty L u g o m a d e h i m a g u e s t o f the family, a n d in a y e a r or t w o s e c u r e d his social r e c o g n i t i o n a m o n g the l e a d i n g families. C h a p m a n b e c a m e p r o m ­inent at t h e M i s s i o n S a n G a b r i e l , a n d a t L o s A n g e l e s a n d S a n t a B a r b a r a , w h e r e h e d i e d in 1 8 4 9 .

A m u l t i t u d e o f stories o f the socia l life o f the S p a n i s h per iod m i g h t b e to ld h e r e , b u t it is sufficient to g i v e the out l ine as t o l d b y the d e s c e n d a n t s o f those o ld families. E a c h t o w n o n the c o a s t w a s t h e center o f the h i d e a n d ta l low t r a d e for a h u n d r e d miles or m o r e . T h e

IN CALIFORNIA. 583

9m mm

i f J I B

mm

l o w a d o b e stores there h e l d pi les o f cost ly a n d beauti ful g o o d s i n the d a y s o f w h i c h F a r n h a m a n d D a n a w r o t e — the d a y s w h e n t h e g r e a t cat t le pr inces c a m e from their r a n c h e s t o h o l d festival . T h e y o u n g cava l iers r o d e i n o n fiery b u t w e l l - t r a i n e d a n d /

g a i l y c a p a r i s o n e d horses , a n d al l t h e w o n d e r f u l feats o f h o r s e m a n s h i p o f as fine a r a c e o f riders as the w o r l d h a s e v e r t s e e n w e r e p e r f o r m e d d a i l y o n m e s a a n d s e a - b e a c h a n d p l a z a . B u t t h e h o m e l i f e o f these g r e a t families, w a s s impl ic i ty itself. I n m a n y a Spanish h o u s e there w a s n o f ireplace, w i n d o w , o r c h i m n e y . T h e fire for c o o k ­i n g w a s bui l t o n a c l a y floor, p a r t l y r o o f e d , o u t s i d e o f t h e m a i n b u i l d i n g . T h e h o u s e ­h o l d utensils w e r e f e w — a c o p p e r o r iron k e t t l e , a s lab o f r o c k o n w h i c h t o p o u n d c o r n or w h e a t , a s o a p s t o n e g r i d d l e for t h e torti l las. D i s h e s , t a b l e ­w a r e , a n d furniture c a m e s l o w l y , a n d w e r e o f t h e m o s t s i m p l e descr ipt ion. F o r y e a r s a r a w h i d e s t r e t c h e d o n t h e . t y ^ floor w i t h a b l a n k e t s p r e a d o v e r i t f o r m e d the usual b e d i n e a r l y Cal i fornia . E v e r y ­t h i n g w a s k e p t exquis i te ly c l e a n , a n d t h o u g h t h e S p a n i s h famil ies l e a r n e d t o s p e n d m o r e o n their h o u s e s a n d b e l o n g ­i n g s , t h e y s e e m e d to l o o k u p o n s u c h th ings as o n l y affording o p p o r ­tunit ies for a m o r e g e n e r o u s hospi ta l i ty .

I n t h e o l d d a y s there w a s n o t a h o t e l in Cal i fornia , a n d it w a s c o n s i d e r e d a g r i e v o u s offense e v e n for a stranger, m u c h m o r e for a friend, t o pass b y a r a n c h w i t h o u t s t o p p i n g . F r e s h horses w e r e a l w a y s f u r n i s h e d , a n d in m a n y cases o n r e c o r d w h e n strangers a p p e a r e d t o n e e d financial h e l p a p i l e o f u n c o u n t e d si lver w a s left in the s l e e p i n g a p a r t m e n t , a n d t h e y w e r e g i v e n to u n d e r s t a n d t h a t t h e y w e r e t o t a k e al l t h e y n e e d e d . T h i s m o n e y w a s c o v e r e d w i t h a c l o t h , a n d it w a s a p o i n t o f h o n o r n o t to c o u n t i t b e f o r e h a n d n o r af terwards . I t w a s " g u e s t s i lver ," a n d the c u s t o m c o n ­t i n u e d unti l its a b u s e b y t rave lers c o m p e l l e d the n a t i v e C a l i f o r a i a n s t o a b a n d o n it. A m o n g t h e m s e l v e s n o o n e w a s e v e r a l l o w e d to suffer or s t r u g g l e for l a c k o f h e l p . T h e late D r . N i c h o l a s D e n , o f S a n t a B a r b a r a , w h o m a r r i e d into t h e O r t e g a family, o n c e n e e d e d m o n e y

D O N A V A L L E J O , W I D O W O F G E N E R A L V A L L E J O ,

B O R N F R A N C I S C A B E N I C I A C A R R I L L O .

to carry t h r o u g h a speculat ion, a n d t h o u g h t o f g o i n g to L o s A n g e l e s to b o r r o w it. O l d F a t h e r N a r c i s o , h e a r i n g o f the matter , sent his I n d i a n b o y t o h i m w i t h a " c o r a , " o r four-ga l lon tu le b a s k e t , full o f g o l d , a n d t h e m e s s a g e t h a t h e o u g h t to c o m e to his pr iest w h e n e v e r h e n e e d e d h e l p .

T h e c o l l e c t i o n s o f " D o c u m e n t s r e l a t i n g t o t h e H i s t o r y o f C a l i f o r n i a " m a d e b y G e n e r a l V a l l e j o a n d his b r o t h e r D o n J . J . V a l l e j o , a n d n o w i n t h e B a n c r o f t l ibrary, a n d t h e v e r y g r a p h i c a n d careful series o f m a n u s c r i p t n o t e s a n d m e m o r a n d a b y G e n e r a l V a l l e j o , ent i t led " H i s t o r i a d e Ca l i fornia , " al l cast l i g h t u p o n t h e socia l a n d e c o n o m i c condi t ions in t h e s e A r c a d i a n d a y s . A v e r y l a r g e n u m b e r o f t h e o l d families, s u c h as the Castros , P i c o s , A r c e s , a n d P e r a l t a s , a n d m a n y o f the A m e r i c a n s w h o h a d m a r r i e d n a t i v e C a l i f o m i a n s , furnished manuscr ipts , let ters , a n d var ious d o c u m e n t s o f p e r m a n e n t v a l u e . I n fact it m a y b e d o u b t e d if

3S4 PIONEER SPANISH FAMILIES

the p ioneer per iod of a n y other A m e r i c a n State has h a d a m o r e c o m p l e t e m a s s of origi­nal author i tat ive d a t a m a d e r e a d y for the his­torian's use. M u c h still remains to b e c o l l e c t e d from first h a n d s , a n d m a n y m i n o r historical quest ions will p r o b a b l y b e s o l v e d b y d o c u ­ments still he ld b y the nat ive Ca l i forn ian fami­lies, w h o treasure e v e r y scrap of written p a p e r .

T h e l ink b e t w e e n the o ld a n d the n e w , b e ­t w e e n the quiet a n d h a p p y pastoral a g e o f the b e g i n n i n g o f the century a n d the a g e o f A m e r i ­c a n g r o w t h a n d c h a n g e that f o l l o w e d fast on

the capital o f the p r o v i n c e , a n d d ied J a n ­uary 18, 1890, in S o n o m a , o n c e the northern fortress o f the p r o v i n c e a n d g u a r d e d b y the y o u n g genera l ' s soldiers. A t the a g e of s ixteen h e w a s a n officer in the a r m y a n d the pr ivate secretary o f the g o v e r n o r of Cal i fornia. I n 1 S 2 9 , w h e n only t w e n t y -one, h e b e c a m e l i e u t e n a n t - c o m m a n d e r o f the northern d e p a r t m e n t , w h i c h i n c l u d e d al l the country north of S a n t a C r u z , a n d m a d e his h e a d q u a r t e r s at the presidio. H e r e he or­g a n i z e d the first t o w n g o v e r n m e n t of V e r b a

W A S H I N G - D A Y O N A R A N C H .

the c o n q u e s t , w a s that r e m a r k a b l e m a n , G e n ­eral M a r i a n o G u a d a l u p e V a l l e j o , 1 w h o s e chi l ­dren, as h e o n c e to ld m e , " w e r e b o r n u n d e r three a d m i n i s t r a t i o n s — S p a n i s h , M e x i c a n , a n d A m e r i c a n . " O n e of his d a u g h t e r s said, " T w o of us, w h e n w e w e r e smal l , w e r e ca l led b y our brothers a n d sisters ' the little Y a n k e e s . ' " G e n e r a l V a l l e j o , the e ighth o f the thirteen chi ldren o f D o n I g n a c i o , w a s b o r n in 1808, in the o l d seaport t o w n o f M o n t e r e y , l o n g

1 See portrait in T H E C K X T U R Y for December, 1S90. - T h e eldest became the wife of General John 15.

Krisbie; the others are the wife of Dr. Krisbie, Mrs.

B u e n a , a n d for five years exerc ised b o t h c iv i l a n d mil i tary functions there . T h e Solis rebel l ion against G o v e r n o r E c h e a n d i a , w h o h a d re­m o v e d the seat o f g o v e r n m e n t from M o n t e r e y to S a n D i e g o , b e g a n in the fall o f 1 8 2 9 , a n d V a l l e j o a i d e d in t h e defeat o f the insurgents at

S a n t a B a r b a r a . H e w a s a m e m b e r of the territorial d e p u t a t i o n in 1 S 3 1 , a n d b r o u g h t articles o f i m p e a c h m e n t against G o v e r n o r V i c ­toria, w h o w a s d e f e a t e d a n d dr iven from C a l i ­fornia in the r e v o l u t i o n w h i c h fo l lowed. T h e n e x t y e a r G e n e r a l V a l l e j o marr ied Sei iorita F r a n c i s c a B e n i c i a Carr i l lo , b y w h o m h e h a d s e v e n t e e n ch i ldren , n ine of w h o m are n o w liv­i n g . 2

B y 1S40 t h e y o u n g l ieutenant h a d r e a c h e d

Attila Haras/.thy, Mrs. E . Emperan, Mrs. J . Henry Cutter, Dr. Platon Vallejo, Amlronica Vallejo, l !lla Vallejo, and Napoleon Vallejo.

IN CALIFORNIA.

T H E F A N D A N G O .

the r a n k o f l ieutenant-general , a n d w a s the o n e m a n in Ca l i fornia to w h o m the entire p r o v ­ince turned with perfect c o n f i d e n c e in e v e r y e m e r g e n c y . W h e n G u t i e r r e z w a s d e p o s e d V a l l e j o t o o k c o n t r o l o f affairs, a n d h e m a d e his n e p h e w A l v a r a d o civi l g o v e r n o r , re ta in ing mil i tary contro l himself. M i c h e l t o r e n a , w h o s u c c e e d e d h i m as g o v e r n o r , conf i rmed al l his acts , a n d a p p o i n t e d h i m mil i tary c o m m a n d e r of the w h o l e territory nor th o f M o n t e r e y . V a l l e j o then f o u n d e d the t o w n o f S o n o m a , m a k i n g it his mi l i tary h e a d q u a r t e r s , a n d s p e n t m o r e than a q u a r t e r o f a mil l ion dol lars there. H e sent to M e x i c o for a pr int ing press a n d t y p e , set u p wi th his o w n h a n d s his orders a n d p r o c l a m a t i o n s , a n d printed a n d b o u n d sev­eral p a m p h l e t s . T h i s w a s in 1 8 3 9 . T h e f a m o u s Z a m o r a n o press o f M o n t e r e y , w h i c h b e g a n w o r k in N o v e m b e r , 1 8 3 4 , wi th c a r n i v a l bal l invi tat ions, h a d printed the " C a t e c i s m o " a n d m a n y p u b l i c d o c u m e n t s , w h i c h are m u c h pr ized b y co l lec tors . P a p e r w a s so s c a r c e t h a t the proof-sheets a n d defect ive prints w e r e s a v e d a n d u s e d for fly-leaves o f the cur ious little arismeticas a n d other t e x t - b o o k s t h a t w e r e issued a few y e a r s later for the s c h o o l s o f the p r o v i n c e .

O n e h a s to g o b a c k to the d a y s o f the fa­m o u s Spanish " m a r c h e s , " or frontier t o w n s bui l t a n d d e f e n d e d in Spain 's h e r o i c a g e b y her proudest k n i g h t s , to find a fit paral le l i n his­tory to the posit ion he ld b y G e n e r a l V a l l e j o d u r i n g the c l o s i n g years o f the M e x i c a n rule in Cal i fornia . H e h a d absolute s w a y for a h u n d r e d mi les or m o r e , a n d h e " k e p t the

V O L . X L L — 5 1 .

b o r d e r . " H i s m e n r o d e o n h o r s e b a c k to M o n ­terey a n d to C a p t a i n Sutter 's fort o n the S a c r a ­m e n t o , b r i n g i n g h i m n e w s a n d c a r r y i n g his letters. Spanish families co lonized the fertile v a l l e y s u n d e r his p r o t e c t i o n , a n d I n d i a n s c a m e a n d built in the s h a d o w s o f the S o n o m a M i s ­sion. H e o w n e d , as h e b e l i e v e d b y unassai l­a b l e title, the largest a n d finest r a n c h in the p r o v i n c e , a n d h e dispensed a hospita l i ty so g e n e r o u s a n d universal that i t was a d m i r e d a n d exto l led e v e n a m o n g the o ld Spanish families. J . Q u i n n T h o r n t o n , w h o visited t h e coast in 1848 a n d p u b l i s h e d his e x p e r i e n c e s , s a y s : " G o v e r n o r - G e n e r a l V a l l e j o o w n s 1000 horses that are b r o k e n to the s a d d l e a n d br idle , a n d 9000 that a r e n o t b r o k e n . B r o k e n horses readi ly b r i n g o n e h u n d r e d dol lars a p i e c e , b u t the u n b r o k e n o n e s c a n b e p u r c h a s e d for a trivial s u m . " M o r e a n d m o r e in the c los ing y e a r s o f the e p o c h a n d the d a y s o f the c o n q u e s t G e n e r a l V a l l e j o b e c a m e t h e rep­resentat ive m a n o f his p e o p l e , a n d so h e has r e c e i v e d , a m o n g m a n y o f the o l d families, the reproachful n a m e o f a traitor to Cal i fornia a n d to his nat ion . T h e quiet intensity o f this bitterness, e v e n t o- da y , is a startling t h i n g . I h a v e seen m e n o f pure b l o o d , famous in p r o ­vincial history, l e a v e the r o o m at the n a m e o f V a l l e j o .

I n 1 8 4 4 - 4 5 the n a t i v e C a l i f o m i a n s d r o v e out G o v e r n o r M i c h e l t o r e n a , a n d b e g a n to dis­cuss the feasibility o f establ ishing a separate g o v e r n m e n t . I n 1846 the famous S a n t a B a r ­b a r a c o n v e n t i o n o f l e a d i n g ranchers o c c u r r e d , a n d , a c c o r d i n g to G e n e r a l Val le jo ' s m e m o -

386 PIONEER SPANISH FAMILIES

r a n d a , E n g l i s h inf luences w e r e v e r y s t r o n g . H e e x e r t e d all his personal inf luence, a n d se­c u r e d an a d j o u r n m e n t of the c o n v e n t i o n to M o n t e r e y , w h e r e that fine o ld A m e r i c a n , C o n ­sul T h o m a s O . L a r k i n , h e l p e d h i m in his s t r u g g l e . H e r e V a l l e j o m a d e a b o l d s p e e c h a g a i n s t a n E n g l i s h p r o t e c t o r a t e , a g a i n s t a sep­arate r e p u b l i c , a n d in favor o f a n n e x a t i o n to the U n i t e d States a n d u l t imate s t a t e h o o d . H e w a s t h o r o u g h l y e q u i p p e d for the task, the best e d u c a t e d m a n a m o n g the n a t i v e Cal i fornians , a n d inspired b y the A m e r i c a n idea l . T h e c o n ­v e n t i o n c l o s e d w i t h its leaders , s u c h as his n e p h e w s C a s t r o a n d A l v a r a d o , r e a d y to a d o p t the v i e w s o f V a l l e j o , a n d the w a y s e e m e d p r e ­p a r e d for a h e a r t y w e l c o m e to the A m e r i c a n s . B u t the B e a r F l a g episode f o l l o w e d , V a l l e j o w a s c a r r i e d a pr isoner to Sutter 's F o r t , a n d t h e o p p o r t u n i t y o f p e a c e f u l c o n q u e s t w a s lost. N e v e r t h e l e s s , as soon as h e w a s r e l e a s e d h e t h r e w h i m s e l f heart a n d soul into the w o r k o f o r g a n i z i n g a g o v e r n m e n t . H e a i d e d in f r a m i n g a t e m p o r a r y c o d e o f l a w s , a n d in s e c u r i n g its s u p p o r t b y the S p a n i s h p o p u l a ­t ion. H e l a i d out the - town sites o f B e n i -c i a a n d V a l l e j o o n t h e strait of C a r q u i n e z , a n d h e w a s a l e a d i n g m e m b e r o f the const i tu­t ional c o n v e n t i o n . G e n e r a l V a l l e j o ' s w h o l e c a r e e r s h o w e d that h e w a s a c t u a t e d b y a l a r g e a n d n o b l e a m b i t i o n to b e r e c o g n i z e d as the foremost c i t izen o f the State . N o t h i n g m a r k e d this e l e m e n t in his nature m o r e c lear ly t h a n t h e m a g n i f i c e n t p lans for his p r o p o s e d c a p i t a l

at V a l l e j o . H e offered to construct ' p u b l i c b u i l d i n g s a n d g i v e l a r g e areas o f land. T h e l o n g - f o r g o t t e n s c h e m e , w h i c h w a s la id before the legis lature o f 1850, w h o a c c e p t e d , a n d w a s ratified b y t h e p e o p l e , w a s in e v e r y r e s p e c t w o r t h y of his m a g n i f i c e n t l iberal ity. H e b e g a n to bui ld his n e w c i ty , b u t , c o n t r a r y to the p l e d g e s o f the State , the c a p i t a l w a s r e m o v e d to S a c r a ­m e n t o at the n e x t session of the legis lature . Squat ters b e g a n to settle u p o n his g r e a t Sus-c o l a n d P e t a l u m a r a n c h e s , a n d u l t imate ly the S u p r e m e C o u r t o f t h e U n i t e d States r e j e c t e d t h e title t o t h e l a r g e r p a r t o f his estates. H e spent the rest o f h is life o n a c o m p a r a t i v e l y smal l h o m e s t e a d , " L a c h r y m a M o n t i s , " n e a r the o l d t o w n o f S o n o m a .

L a c h r y m a M o n t i s is o n e o f the few histor­ica l mans ions o f the Pac i f ic c o a s t . T h e d w e l l ­i n g h o u s e , bui l t in 1 8 5 0 - 5 1 , c o s t near ly $60,000 a n d c a m e from al l parts o f the w o r l d — the m a n t e l p i e c e s f rom H o n o l u l u , the iron from C h i n a , the b r i c k s f r o m S o u t h A m e r i c a . C a r ­p e n t e r s ' w a g e s w e r e t h e n s e v e n t e e n dol lars a d a y , a n d the g r e a t r e d w o o d s that w e r e h e w n in the S o n o m a forests w e r e " w h i p - s a w e d " b y h a n d for t h e p l a n k required . T h e spr ing o n t h e m o u n t a i n side that g a v e the m a n s i o n its n a m e w a s w a l l e d in, a n d a l a k e w h i c h suppl ied the t o w n w i t h w a t e r a n d fed fountains in the o r a n g e , l e m o n , a n d o l i v e g r o v e s w a s thus f o r m e d . M o r e n o p a l h e d g e s w e r e p l a n t e d , a n d the o l d o n e s e x t e n d e d . A c h a l e t i m p o r t e d in parts from Switzer land w a s e r e c t e d n e a r the m a n -

IN CALIFORNIA. 387

sion. F a r t h e r a w a y w e r e the old a d o b e s . A p a v i l i o n of iron, glass, a n d b a m b o o , i m p o r t e d from C h i n a , cost , as m e m b e r s c f t h e family tell m e , m o r e than a h u n d r e d t h o u s a n d d o l ­lars. W h e n the estates w e r e lost the beauti ful g r o u n d s b e g a n to fall into ruins, t h r o u g h l a c k of m e a n s to k e e p t h e m up, a n d in 1890 G e n ­eral V a l l e j o d i e d a c o m p a r a t i v e l y p o o r m a n .

S o n o m a V a l l e y is full o f stories o f his g e n ­erosity. F a t h e r L o r e n z o W a u g h , a n ear ly M e t h o d i s t c ircuit-r ider o f t h e r e g i o n , saw the squatters t a k i n g u p l a n d in t h e v a l l e y w h i l e w a i t i n g for a dec is ion r e s p e c t i n g V a l l e j o ' s title. H e w e n t t o t h e g e n e r a l , a n d w a s t o l d to g o a h e a d a n d settle o n a quarter-sect ion, a n d h e w o u l d d o al l in his p o w e r to s e c u r e h i m a title. F a t h e r W a u g h d i d so , a n d n ine y e a r s later , whi le V a l l e j o w a s a w a y , the l ines o f this p a r ­t icular district w e r e sett led, a n d his l a w y e r , a g a i n s t orders , so ld the t ract o n w h i c h W a u g h l i v e d . A s s o o n as V a l l e j o l e a r n e d this he g a v e h i m a title t o three h u n d r e d acres o f bet ter l a n d , a part o f the h o m e estate. N o o n e wil l e v e r k n o w h o w m a n y h u n d r e d s of A m e r i c a n p io­neers o w e d their start in the w o r l d to G e n e r a l V a l l e j o , e v e n w h i l e h e w a s s t r u g g l i n g a g a i n s t i m m e n s e f inancial difficulties a n d l o s i n g his l a n d s , n o t b y acres , b u t b y s q u a r e l e a g u e s .

in 1849, in A l a m e d a C o u n t y . " Y o u c a n k e e p i t ; I c a n n o t . "

Af ter G e n e r a l V a l l e j o found his estate sl ip­p i n g a w a y h e d e v o t e d h imsel f m o r e a n d m o r e to hort iculture a n d to t h e e d u c a t i o n of his chi l­dren. H e o c c a s i o n a l l y a p p e a r e d in p u b l i c , a n d the greatness o f his serv ices to the c o m m o n ­w e a l t h w a s r e c o g n i z e d b y e v e r y t h o u g h t f u l c i t izen. T h e genera l ' s n a m e is m e n t i o n e d in n e a r l y e v e r y b o o k o f t rave ls or m a g a z i n e art i­c le re lat ing to ear ly Cal i fornia . I n his later years h e g a t h e r e d u p a n d p u t o n r e c o r d a sur­pris ing w e a l t h o f m a t e r i a l re lat ing to the o l d Spanish d a y s o f Cal i fornia . F r o m him the his­torians h a v e d r a w n m o s t o f their i m p o r t a n t detai ls . H i s m a n u s c r i p t , n o w in the B a n c r o f t co l lec t ion, is writ ten w i t h s u c h exquis i te care a n d fidelity to truth t h a t , l ike G e n e r a l B i d w e l l ' s recol lect ions o f early d a y s in t h e S a c r a m e n t o V a l l e y , it h a s b e c o m e the p r i m a r y author i ty u p o n all w i t h i n its r a n g e .

G e n e r a l V a l l e j o ' s readiness o f a p t a n e c d o t e w a s a l w a y s r e m a r k a b l e . Patt i o n c e d ined wi th h i m , a n d a s k e d the o l d soldier if he e n j o y e d the first o p e r a h e e v e r h e a r d .

" W h y , n o , " said V a l l e j o ; " a n d y e t I c o n ­fess I shall n e v e r f o r g e t i t . "

T h i s reply a r o u s e d Pat t i ' s curiosity, a n d she

A N A D O B E

M a n y others o f the o ld Cal i fornians m a d e a dist inct ion b e t w e e n the " G r i n g o t h i e v e s " a n d the p leasant , m a n l y p ioneers w h o w e r e g o o d n e i g h b o r s . A v o l u m e c o u l d b e wri t ten a b o u t the unsol ic i ted gifts o f l a n d — f i f t y acres h e r e , a h u n d r e d t h e r e — m a d e to y o u n g A m e r i c a n s to w h o m t h e g r e a t r a n c h e r o s h a d t a k e n a fancy , or w h o h a d r e n d e r e d t h e m a service . " T a k e the l a n d , " said D o n A l v i s o to a C o n n e c t i c u t m a n

I N S O N O M A .

d e m a n d e d w h e n a n d w h e r e the e v e n t t o o k p l a c e .

" I n 1 8 2 8 , on the site o f the P a l a c e H o t e l , S a n F r a n c i s c o . "

" I n d e e d ! A n d w h o w a s the p r i m a d o n n a so l o n g a g o as that ? "

" W e l l , I can ' t s a y , " w a s the smil ing a n s w e r ; " b u t there w e r e at least five h u n d r e d c o y o t e s in the c h o r u s . "

PIONEER SPANISH FAMILIES IN CALIFORNIA.

" 7 > • - > - . .

T H E V A L L E J O C H A R I O T F O R P O S T I L I O N A N D

F O O T M A N , B R O U G H T F R O M M E X I C O E A R L Y I N T H I S C E N T U R Y

A v o l u m e o f descr ipt ion c o u l d n o t g i v e a m o r e c o m p l e t e p i c t u r e o f the lonel iness o f the peninsula a t t h a t t ime.

I n his y o u n g e r d a y s G e n e r a l V a l l e j o n o t o n l y k n e w a l m o s t e v e r y o n e o f t h e five t h o u s a n d S p a n i s h Ca l i fornians in the p r o v i n c e , the greater p a r t o f the M i s s i o n I n d i a n s , a n d t h e chiefs o f t h e w i l d tr ibes, b u t h e g a t h e r e d u p , e v e n in his y o u t h , the tradit ions o f the p ioneers , a n d tested their a c c u r a c y b y e v e r y p o s s i b l e d o c u m e n t a r y a n d other e v i d e n c e . H i s j o u r ­nals are full o f v a r i e t y , a n d form a c o m p l e t e p i c t u r e of the entire S p a n i s h p e r i o d . O n e o f his m e m o r a n d a s p e a k s o f t h e g a l l e o n San Augustin, w h i c h w a s w r e c k e d in T o m a l e s B a y in 1 5 9 5 , a n d o f w h i c h p o r t i o n s drifted into the G o l d e n G a t e i n 1 8 3 0 , w h e r e t h e y w e r e f o u n d b y D o n J o s e A n t o n i o S a n c h e s a n d identi f ied b y G e n e r a l V a l l e j o ! H e h a s t r a c e d t h e t r a c k o f e v e r y e x p l o r i n g e x p e d i t i o n from the earliest set t lement , a n d d e t e r m i n e d m o s t o f their c a m p s . H i s s tory o f t h e d i s c o v e r y o f S a n F r a n c i s c o Bay-i l lustrates t h e s l o w n e s s o f t h e progress o f set­t l e m e n t . I t w a s la te in 1 7 6 9 that the P o r t a l a p a r t y a n d C a p t a i n R i v e r a , w i t h w h o m w a s D o n I g n a c i o V a l l e j o , w o r k e d n o r t h w a r d from S a n D i e g o , p a s t M o n t e r e y , a n d d o w n t h e S a n M a t e o peninsula , till, o n N o v e m b e r 2, t w o h u n t e r s o f the e x p e d i t i o n first l o o k e d u p o n t h e b a y o f San F r a n c i s c o , a n d N o v e m b e r 4 t h e w h o l e party s a w t h e g r e a t b a y . I n M a r c h , 1 7 7 2 , C a p t a i n F a g e s a n d F a t h e r C r e s p i m a d e that n o t a b l e e x p l o r a t i o n .which e x t e n d e d from M o n t e r e y a c r o s s the Sal inas V a l l e y , t h r o u g h the hills t o t h e S a n t a C l a r a V a l l e y , u p t h e east side o f t h e b a y p a s t S a n J o s e a n d O a k ­l a n d , a n d a l o n g the shores o f S a n P a b l o a n d Suisun to w h e r e A n t i o c h n o w s tands . T h e San J o a q u i n R i v e r w a s crossed a t this po int , a n d recrossed b y the e x p e d i t i o n , w h i c h re­turned to M o n t e r e y t h r o u g h the M o n t e D i a b l o

foothil ls . N o v e m b e r 2 3 , 1 7 7 4 , C a p t a i n R i v e r a , with s ixteen soldiers a n d F a t h e r P a l o u , m a d e a n o t h e r e x p e d i t i o n to t h e b a y . T h e y entered t h e S a n t a C l a r a V a l l e y a n d skirted the western shore o f the b a y o f S a n F r a n c i s c o , f o l l o w i n g t h e l e v e l plains past t h e sites o f P a l o A l t o , B e l m o n t , a n d m a n y o t h e r t o w n s o f t o- da y , a n d

cross ing to t h e o c e a n b e a c h at L a g u n a d e la M e r c e d , t h e y r e a c h e d P o i n t L o b o s , a n d c l i m b e d t h e cliff to l o o k d o w n o n the G o l d e n G a t e .

I D e c e m b e r 4 t h e y p l a n t e d t h e cross. T h e g e n e r a l says in his c o m m e m o r a t i o n ad­dress , " T h a t cross I s a w m y s e l f in t h e y e a r 1 8 2 9 . " T h e e x p e d i t i o n returned t o M o n t e r e y ; ' b y w a y o f S a n P e d r o , Spanish-t o w n , H a l f M o o n B a y , P o i n t N e w Y e a r , S a n t a C r u z , W a t s o n v i l l e , C a s t r o v i l l e , a n d S a l i n a s . " I n 1 7 7 5 C a p t a i n A y a l a sai led the

Sa/i Carlos into the b a y o f S a n F r a n c i s c o , a n d " r e m a i n e d forty d a y s , e x p l o r i n g it i n all direc­t i o n s . " I n the spr ing o f 1 7 7 6 C o l o n e l A n z a a n d L i e u t e n a n t M o r a g a l e d a n o t h e r l a n d e x p e ­dit ion t o the r e g i o n a n d r e t u r n e d to M o n t e r e y .

T h e n c a m e the f o u n d a t i o n o f the Miss ion a n d the Pres id io . T h e mi l i tary force , u n d e r L i e u ­t e n a n t M o r a g a , cons is ted , s a y s G e n e r a l V a l l e j o , o f o n e s e r g e a n t , t w o c o r p o r a l s , a n d ten soldiers, w i t h their w i v e s a n d c h i l dr e n . T h e s e c o n v e y e d F a t h e r s P a l o u a n d C a m b o n , w i t h t w o I n d i a n s e r v a n t s a n d three n e o p h y t e I n d i a n s , w h o c a r e d for e i g h t y - s i x h e a d o f M i s s i o n cat t le , p a r t l y their o w n , p a r t l y b e l o n g i n g to the k i n g . J u n e 27, 1 7 7 6 , t h e y c a m p e d a t the l a g o o n or l a k e o f D o l o r e s , n e a r w h e r e t h e M i s s i o n w a s s o o n a f terwards bui l t . T h e soldiers e r e c t e d b a r r a c k s o f tule , s o o n r e p l a c e d b y w o o d . T h e d a y o f t h e f o u n d a t i o n o f the Miss ion w as fixed at O c t o b e r 4, t h e d a y o f St. F r a n c i s , a n d O c t o b e r 8 the a c t u a l b u i l d i n g w a s b e g u n . A m o n g those p r e s e n t w e r e D o n I g n a c i o V a l l e j o , L i e u t e n a n t M o r a g a , a n d m e m b e r s o f the families o f B r i o n e s , G a l i n d o , C a s t r o , P a c h e c o , B o j o r q u e s , B e r n a l , P e r a l t a , H i g u e r a , a n d others o f p r o m i n e n c e in S p a n i s h Ca l i fornia .

T h e historians o f S p a n i s h Cal i fornian d a y s m u s t d r a w o n s u c h tradit ions as these, o b ­t a i n e d f rom G e n e r a l V a l l e j o ' s c o n v e r s a t i o n s , or wr i t ten in his m e m o r a n d a . A single m a g a ­z ine art ic le c a n c o n t a i n o n l y a smal l part o f the w e a l t h o f t r a d i t i o n t h a t h a s g a t h e r e d a b o u t t h e o l d S o n o m a h o m e s t e a d o f the V a l l e j o s — that h o m e s t e a d w h i c h is in t h e h i g h e s t d e g r e e t y p i c a l o f all S p a n i s h h o m e s t e a d s o f the first r a n k o n the Pac i f ic c o a s t . E v e r y w h e r e , in the m o s t p ic turesque port ions o f Cal i fornia , are the o l d a d o b e s that o n c e w e r e socia l centers o f t h e s tate ly life o f n e a r l y a c e n t u r y a g o . M o s t o f t h e m are m e r e l y ruins , b u t m a n y are still the h o m e s o f t h e d e s c e n d a n t s o f the first fami-

THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. 389

lies o f the p r o v i n c e . T h e y e a r s that b r o u g h t fornians to preserve the m e m o r i a l s o f the past s u c h c h a n g e a n d w r e c k to the o ld d a y s h a v e that w a s so fair a n d so fruitful a b e g i n n i n g o f

n o w carr ied t h e m so far b a c k into the mists the story of the c o m m o n w e a l t h . T h e a g e n c y o f tradit ion that t h e y s e e m centur ies a w a y , t h r o u g h w h i c h this is to b e a c c o m p l i s h e d is V a l l e j o ' s fortress o n the frontier is n o w a t o w n , l i k e l y to b e the associat ion k n o w n as the N a -

as dul l a n d u n r o m a n t i c as Y o n k e r s . A b o u t t ive S o n s o f the G o l d e n W e s t , u n d e r w h o s e the anc ient p u e b l o o f L o s A n g e l e s h a s s p r u n g publ ic-spir i ted d irect ion w a s c o n d u c t e d the u p an intense ly m o d e r n city. A ra i l road e x - r e c e n t successful c e l e b r a t i o n of the admiss ion

t e n d s t h r o u g h the v e r y g r a v e y a r d of S a n M i g u e l o f Cal i fornia . Miss ion. M u c h n e e d s to b e d o n e b y C a l i - Charles Howard Shinn.

F R O M A N O L D D O C U M E N T .

T H E MISSIONS OF

C R O S S A T M O N T E R E Y M A R K I N G T H E L A N D I N G T L A C E

O F J U N I I ' E R O S E R R A .

AL T H O U G H the peninsula o f L o w e r C a l -• i fornia w a s d i s c o v e r e d as e a r l y as 1 5 3 4 ,

a n d m a n y a t t e m p t s w e r e m a d e to co lonize it, it r e m a i n e d w h o l l y u n o c c u p i e d b y S p a i n d o w n

1 See also " Father Junipero and his W o r k : A Sketch of the Foundation, Prosperity, and Ruin of the Franciscan Missions in California," by " H. H . , " in this magazine for May and June, 1 8 8 3 ' — E D I T O R .

A L T A CALIFORNIA. 1

t o 1 6 9 7 . I n F e b r u a r y o f that y e a r t w o Jesuit fathers , J u a n M a r i a Sa lvat ierra a n d F r a n c i s c o E u s e b i o K i n o , a s k e d permiss ion to a t t e m p t the spiritual c o n q u e s t o f t h e country , w h i c h w a s g r a n t e d o n c o n d i t i o n that the k i n g s h o u l d n o t b e c a l l e d o n for a n y p a r t o f the e x p e n s e in­v o l v e d , a n d that possess ion s h o u l d b e t a k e n dist inct ly in the n a m e o f t h e S p a n i s h c r o w n . A r m e d with this a u t h o r i t y a n d the sanct ion o f their superiors in t h e order , t h e t w o mission­aries set a b o u t c o l l e c t i n g funds for their under­t a k i n g , a n d in a short t i m e s u c c e e d e d in obta in­i n g sufficient m e a n s t o c o m m e n c e it. T h e s e funds, subscr ibed b y c h a r i t a b l e indiv iduals , w h o s e n a m e s a n d c o n t r i b u t i o n s t h e grat i tude o f the fathers has p r e s e r v e d for us to this d a y , i n c r e a s e d , in progress o f t ime, to a n a g g r e g a t e o f sufficient i m p o r t a n c e t o find frequent m e n ­t ion in M e x i c a n legis lat ion a n d history, u n d e r the n a m e o f the " P i o u s F u n d o f the Cal i for-n i a s . " I t const i tuted af terwards the e n d o w ­m e n t a n d support o f the Miss ions o n all the west c o a s t o f the c o n t i n e n t as far nor t h as c l a i m e d b y Spain , t h e w h o l e o f w h i c h w a s c a l l e d b y t h e g e n e r a l n a m e o f the Cal i fornias .

T h e thirteen Miss ions f o u n d e d b y the Jesuits

3 9 ° THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA.

in L o w e r Ca l i fornia e x t e n d e d from C a p e S a n L u c a s , at the extremity o f the peninsula , north­w a r d s . D e t a i l s r e g a r d i n g t h e m are d e e m e d out o f p l a c e h e r e : t h e y w e r e in a f lourishing c o n ­dit ion a t the t ime o f t h e e x p u l s i o n of the o r d e r in 1 7 6 8 , a n d the establ ishments r e m a i n to t h e present d a y ; r u i n e d i n d e e d a n d deserted b y the p o p u l a t i o n that o n c e c lustered r o u n d t h e m , b u t at test ing still the p i o u s z e a l o f their founders .

I n 1 7 6 7 t h e S p a n i s h m o n a r c h , b y a " p r a g ­m a t i c s a n c t i o n , " d i r e c t e d that t h e S o c i e t y o f

a b r o a d . A few m o m e n t s o n l y w e r e a l l o w e d to t h e m to snatch their breviar ies , b e a d s , p r a y e r -b o o k s , a n d necessary c l o t h i n g , a n d w i t h i n a n h o u r after the first k n o c k a t t h e d o o r o f the es tab l i shment the w h o l e b o d y o f i n m a t e s w a s in m o t i o n t o w a r d s the c o a s t , w h e r e t h e y w e r e wi th e q u a l s u d d e n n e s s a n d d e s p a t c h s h i p p e d off to R o m e . D u r i n g their j o u r n e y to the p o i n t o f e m b a r k a t i o n n o intercourse w a s a l l o w e d ei ther w i t h friends or w i t h persons c a s u a l l y m e t o n the r o a d . T h e y v a n i s h e d

T H E F I R S T M I S S I O N I N C A L I F O R N I A ( S A N D I E G O ) .

Jesus s h o u l d b e e x p e l l e d from his d o m i n i o n s . W i t h a ref inement o f c r u e l t y this d e c r e e w a s d irected t o b e p u t in to force in e v e r y p a r t o f the k i n g d o m a t t h e s a m e instant. A t a g i v e n h o u r o f the n i g h t , l o n g after t h e i n m a t e s w e r e in p r o ­f o u n d s leep, a train o f v e h i c l e s w a s d r a w n u p at the d o o r o f e v e r y J e s u i t c o l l e g e , n o v i t i a t e , or other e s t a b l i s h m e n t o f a n y k i n d , a n d t h e porter w a s r o u s e d from s leep a n d d i r e c t e d , in the n a m e o f t h e k i n g , t o s u m m o n al l t h e m e m ­bers o f the c o m m u n i t y t o instant a s s e m b l y in the c h a p e l or re fectory . H a s t i l y p u t t i n g o n their g a r m e n t s , t h e m e m b e r s o b e y e d t h e s u m ­m o n s , b e w i l d e r e d to c o n j e c t u r e its c a u s e . T h e roll w a s c a l l e d , t h e l a g g a r d s , i f there w e r e a n y , w e r e b r o u g h t in , a n d the a s s e m b l e d m e m b e r s w e r e t h e n i n f o r m e d t h a t his M a j e s t y h a d b e e n p leased to b a n i s h t h e m forever f rom his d o ­minions . C a r r i a g e s w e r e a w a i t i n g t h e m b e ­l o w , a n d r e l a y s o f an imals w e r e p r o v i d e d for their t ransportat ion to the nearest s e a p o r t , w h e r e vessels w e r e p r e p a r e d to c o n v e y t h e m

f r o m Spain , a n d from al l the E u r o p e a n posses­sions o f S p a i n , as s i lent ly a n d as r a p i d l y a s a m o r n i n g mist.

I t w a s n o t possible t o enforce this b a r b a r o u s d e c r e e w i t h t h e s a m e c r u e l prec is ion in C a l i ­fornia. T h e p l a c e w a s t o o r e m o t e , a n d its re­sources i n a d e q u a t e . I t w a s n e c e s s a r y to s u p p l y t h e Miss ions w i t h o t h e r miss ionar ies , else the I n d i a n s , w h o h a d b e e n w i t h so m u c h t r o u b l e a n d effort r e d u c e d to h a b i t s o f c iv i l i zat ion, w o u l d infal l ibly h a v e r e l a p s e d a g a i n into s a v a g e r y a n d p a g a n i s m , a n d t h e w h o l e w o r k o f c o n ­q u e s t w o u l d h a v e t o b e r e c o m m e n c e d . T h u s t h e necessit ies o f t h e s i tuat ion s o m e w h a t m o d ­ified the crue l ty o f t h e p r o c e e d i n g s in Cal i for­nia. T h e missionaries w e r e a s s e m b l e d i n L a P a z i n F e b r u a r y , 1 7 6 8 , a n d a m i d the tears a n d l a m e n t a t i o n s o f their I n d i a n flocks, w h o , from e v e r y M i s s i o n in the p e n i n s u l a , sent d e l e g a t i o n s to a c c o m p a n y their spir i tual fathers, t h e y fi­na l ly e m b a r k e d , a n d , after a to i lsome p i lgr im­a g e across M e x i c o , finally t o o k ship at V e r a

THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. 3 9 1

M I S S I O N O K S A N " J O S £ . ( D R A W N A F T E R A D A C U E R R E O T Y I ' E

T A K E N I N 1853, N O W O W N E D B Y J . L . B E A R D . )

C r u z o n the 1 3 t h o f A p r i l . F r o m the m a g n i ­t u d e o f t h e P i o u s F u n d t h e h u n g r y pol i t ic ians , w h o h o p e d t o profit b y their expuls ion, l o o k e d for l a r g e a m o u n t s of m o n e y from the p l u n d e r o f the Ca l i fornia Miss ions . T h e total o f all sums f o u n d a t t h e m p r o v e d less t h a n a h u n ­d r e d dol lars .

A r r a n g e m e n t s h a d b e e n m a d e b y the v i c e ­roy b y w h i c h F r a n c i s c a n friars, d r a w n f r o m the c o n v e n t o f S a n F e r n a n d o d e Z a c a t e c a s , t o o k the p l a c e o f the e x p e l l e d Jesuits in the s e v e r a l M i s s i o n s ; a n d a d o p t i n g t h e rules a n d p r a c t i c e s o f their p r e d e c e s s o r s t h e y g r a d u a l l y slid in to the c o n f i d e n c e o f t h e s i m p l e - h e a r t e d n a t i v e s , a n d carr ied o n the w o r k as i t h a d b e e n c o m m e n c e d .

A t this t ime t h e M a r q u i s de C r o i x w a s V i c e ­r o y of N e w S p a i n , a n d J o s e d e G a l v e z w a s sent o v e r f r o m t h e m o t h e r c o u n t r y as V i s i t a -d o r G e n e r a l , a r m e d w i t h e x t r a o r d i n a r y p o w e r s . A p p r e h e n s i o n s o f a n a t t e m p t b y the E n g l i s h to e n l a r g e their possessions in A m e r i c a a n d to o b ­tain a f o o t h o l d o n t h e Pac i f i c m a d e i t a p p e a r unsafe to p e r m i t the n o r t h w e s t coast to re­m a i n l o n g e r u n o c c u p i e d , a n d G a l v e z deter­m i n e d to c o l o n i z e it o n a l a r g e sca le . H e w a s a m a n o f i m m e n s e z e a l a n d untir ing industry , w e l l c h o s e n for a n o c c a s i o n requir ing e n e r g e t i c a c t i o n . F o r t u n a t e l y h e m e t wi th a n ecclesiast ic to s e c o n d his m o v e m e n t s w h o possessed t h e s a m e qualit ies i n as h i g h a d e g r e e , p e r h a p s in a h i g h e r , a n d w h o j o i n e d to t h e m a h u m b l e piety , a z e a l o u s d e v o t i o n to d u t y , a n d a self-a b n e g a t i o n e v e n m o r e r e m a r k a b l e . T h i s w a s F a t h e r J u n i p e r o Serra , pres ident o f t h e M i s ­sions.

F a t h e r M i c h a e l J o s e p h Serra w a s b o r n in the is land o f M a j o r c a , in t h e y e a r 1 7 1 3 . A f t e r pur­suing his studies in the L u l l i a n U n i v e r s i t y there h e e v i n c e d a preference for a rel igious life, a n d

BELLS AND FONT A T SAN JOSfi.

w a s a d m i t t e d t o t h e order o f St. F r a n c i s , tak­i n g ins tead o f his b a p t i s m a l n a m e s that o f J u ­n i p e r o , b y w h i c h o n l y h e is k n o w n in history . T h e F r a n c i s c a n s a n d D o m i n i c a n s w e r e , a b o u t t h a t p e r i o d , e x t e n d i n g their M i s s i o n s a m o n g t h e I n d i a n s o f A m e r i c a in r iva l ry wi th the Jesuits , a n d F a t h e r Serra with three o f his f e l l o w - m e m -

3 9 2 THE MISSIONS OF ALT A CALIFORNIA.

bers b e c a m e inf lamed with the desire to t a k e part in these p i o u s enterprises. T h e other asso­ciates w e r e F a t h e r s R a f a e l V e r g e r , F r a n c i s c o P a l o u , a n d J u a n Crespi . T h e y o b t a i n e d per­mission to j o i n a b o d y o f missionaries w h i c h in 1 7 4 9 w a s a s s e m b l e d a t C a d i z to e m b a r k for the N e w W o r l d , a n d after a ninety-nine d a y s ' v o y a g e t h e y l a n d e d in V e r a C r u z . P a l o u h a s left us a quaint history o f their j o u r n e y , w h i c h in these d a y s o f rapid transit is ra ther a m u s i n g . T h e v o y a g e f r o m M a j o r c a to M a l a g a w a s m a d e in a smal l E n g l i s h coaster ,

the captain of which [says he] was a stubborn, cross-grained heretic, of a disposition so aggravating that, during the fifteen days our passage to Malaga lasted, he gave us not a minute's peace. W e scarce had time to read our office, from his everlasting and

missionaries o v e r b o a r d , a n d o n o n e o c c a s i o n c l a p p e d a d a g g e r at F a t h e r Serra's throat , t h r e a t e n i n g his life. I t is n o t surpris ing that the missionaries re joiced a t a g a i n r e a c h i n g terra firma after fifteen d a y s of tossing in a M e d i t e r ­r a n e a n vessel a n d e n j o y i n g from t h e officers these social amenit ies .

A f t e r m a n y years ' successful miss ionary efforts in the Sierra G o r d a , F a t h e r Serra w a s se lec ted to t a k e pr inc ipal c h a r g e o f the M i s s i o n s of Cal i fornia , n o w conf ided to t h e F r a n c i s c a n s , a n d he arr ived at the port o f L o r e t o with fif­teen associates o n the 2d o f A p r i l , 1 7 6 8 . Af ter h a v i n g m a d e the n e c e s s a r y disposit ions for oc­c u p y i n g the v a r i o u s es tabl i shments o f the p e ­n i n s u l a — a task w h i c h o c c u p i e d m a n y m o n t h s , as t h e y e x t e n d e d o v e r a territory s e v e n h u n d r e d

persistent craving to dispute about religion and wrangle over doctrinal points. He understood no language save English and a mere smattering of Portuguese, and in the latter he conducted his dis­putations. With the English version of the Bible in his hand he would read a text of the Holy Scrip­ture and proceed to interpret it according to his own ideas. But our Father Junipero was so well versed in dogmatic theology and so familiar with the Holy Scriptures that he would at once point out the error and misinterpretation, and frequently refer to an­other text in confirmation. The captain would there­upon rummage his greasy old Bible, and when he could find no other escape would declare that the leaf was torn and he could n't find the verse he wanted.

T h e c a p t a i n , as F a t h e r P a l o u states, re­m a i n e d " d o g g e d l y perverse " till the last , a n d in fact the d isputes w a x e d so h o t at t imes that he m o r e t h a n o n c e t h r e a t e n e d to t h r o w the

m i l e , in l e n g t h — h e w a s r e a d y to c o o p e r a t e wi th G a l v e z in the s u b j e c t i o n o f U p p e r Cal i fornia to t h e p r a c t i c a l d o m i n i o n o f t h e c r o w n o f S p a i n a n d the Chr is t ian re l ig ion. T w o e xp e di t io ns w e r e o r g a n i z e d for the p u r p o s e , o n e b y sea a n d t h e o t h e r b y land. T h e latter w a s f o r m e d into t w o d e t a c h m e n t s , w h i c h , after a to i l some m a r c h f rom S a n F e r n a n d o d e V e l l i c a t a , o n the I n d i a n frontier o f L o w e r Ca l i fornia , w e r e , o n the 1st o f J u l y , 1 7 6 9 , r e u n i t e d at the b a y o f S a n D i e g o , w h e r e the s c h o o n e r s San Carlos a n d San Antonio, w h i c h h a d c o m e u p t h e c o a s t t o m e e t t h e m , w e r e also safely a n c h o r e d . S a n D i e g o w a s a p l a c e of w h i c h at t h a t t i m e n o t h ­i n g m o r e w a s k n o w n t h a n that there w a s a n e x c e l l e n t h a r b o r , w h i c h h a d b e e n v is i ted b y S e b a s t i a n V i z c a y n o in his v o y a g e o f 1 6 0 1 - 2 . T h i s j o u r n e y to San D i e g o o c c u p i e d ninety-three d a y s , d u r i n g w h i c h F a t h e r Serra suffered

THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. 393

e x c r u c i a t i n g l y from an injury to one o f his legs , so that at t imes he c o u l d nei ther w a l k nor r ide.

T h e first M i s s i o n o f U p p e r Cal i fornia was f o u n d e d at S a n D i e g o , a n d before the lapse o f a fortnight a s e c o n d e x p e d i t i o n w a s o r g a n ­ized, u n d e r D o n G a s p a r de P o r t o l a , w h i c h was d i r e c t e d to p r o c e e d u p the c o a s t as far as M o n ­terey a n d to found a Miss ion there. M o n t e r e y w a s a lso a p l a c e m a d e k n o w n to Spanish g e o g r a p h e r s b y V i z c a y n o ' s v o y a g e of 1 6 0 2 , in his report o f w h i c h h e h a d d e s c r i b e d it in g l o w i n g terms as a m a g n i f i c e n t h a r b o r , fit to shelter the n a v i e s o f t h e w o r l d . F a t h e r s J u a n C r e s p i a n d F r a n c i s c o G o m e z w e r e the chapla ins of this expedi t ion , w h i c h w a s a lso to h a v e the c o o p e r a t i o n o f the t w o s c h o o n e r s , w h i c h w e r e d i r e c t e d to the s a m e dest inat ion.

H o w this l a n d e x p e d i t i o n to i led up the coast from S a n D i e g o , o f its '•' m o v i n g acc idents b y f lood a n d field, o f h a i r b r e a d t h ' scapes , . . . . o f antres vas t a n d - d e s e r t s id le , r o u g h quarries, r o c k s a n d hi l ls , " o f h o w in its s e a r c h for M o n ­terey it s t u m b l e d o n t h e b a y o f S a n F r a n c i s c o a n d first m a d e k n o w n to c iv i l ized rrlan the g a r d e n of the present State o f Cal i fornia , I h a v e re lated e lsewhere a n d wil l n o t here repeat . Suffice it to say , that h a v i n g p e n e t r a t e d as far u p the coast a n d o v e r the C o a s t R a n g e as to l o o k d o w n from the crest o v e r w h a t is n o w Searsvi l le o n the b r o a d e x p a n s e o f the S a n t a C l a r a V a l l e y , a n d o n t h e g r e a t estuary w h i c h its historian d e s c r i b e d as a " M e d i t e r r a n e a n sea ," the expedi t ion, c o m p e l l e d b y the a p p r o a c h of winter, the scarc i ty o f food, a n d the increas ing hosti l i ty o f the a b o r i g i n e s , t u r n e d o n the 1 i t h of N o v e m b e r to re trace its s teps t o San D i e g o .

O n a g a i n r e a c h i n g P o i n t P i n o s a n d the sup­p o s e d p l a c e o f the b a y o f M o n t e r e y , near ly a

V O L . X L I . — 5 2 .

mm

3 ? <m-.^W' -1—T ":• • nwzz

P U L P I T A N D C O N F E S S I O N A L O F S A N B U E N A V E N T U R A .

394 THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA.

fortnight was d e v o t e d to a v i g o r o u s e x p l o r a t i o n o f the r u g g e d coast in search o f the m a g n i f i c e n t port descr ibed b y V i z c a y n o , b u t in vain. T h e loca l i ty did not c o r r e s p o n d in a n y d e g r e e to the traveler 's g l o w i n g descr ipt ion of it. F a i l i n g to d i s c o v e r the h a r b o r they w e r e l o o k i n g for, the l e a d e r s c o n c l u d e d it h a d b e e n either des troyed b y s o m e c o n v u l s i o n o f n a t u r e , or filled wi th silt, a n d so obl i terated. T h e y e r e c t e d a l a r g e w o o d e n cross at t h e north a n d a n o t h e r at the south side of P o i n t P i n o s as a m e m o r i a l o f their visit , a n d for the p u r p o s e o f a t t ract ing the at­tent ion of the e x p e d i t i o n b y sea, w h i c h h a d b e e n d e s p a t c h e d to c o o p e r a t e wi th t h e m . O n t h e cross erected at t h e s o u t h s ide w a s cut t h e l e g e n d : " D i g at the foot o f this a n d y o u wil l find a wri t ing " ; a n d at its foot a c c o r d i n g l y

cisco on the n t h of November, passed Point Ano Nuevo on the 19th, and reached this point and har­bor of Pinos on the 27th of the same month. From that d:ite until the present, 9th of December, we have used every effort to find the bay of Monterey, searching the coast thoroughly notwithstanding its ruggedness, but in vain. At last undeceived, and despairing of finding it after so many efforts, suffer­ings, and labors, and having left of all our provisions but fourteen small sacks of flour, we leave this place to-day for San Diego. I beg of Almighty God to guide it, and for you, traveler, who may read this, that he may guide you to the harbor of eternal salvation.

Done in this harbor of Pinos, the 9th of Decem­ber, 1769.

N O T E . — T h a t Don Michael Constanzo, the engi­neer, observed the latitude of various places on the coast, and the same are as follows.

t h e y b u r i e d a br ie f a c c o u n t o f their j o u r n e y . I t s text is set forth i n the d iary o f F a t h e r C r e s p i as f o l l o w s :

The overland expedition which left San Diego on the 14th of July, 1769, under the command of Don Gaspar de Portola, Governor of California, reached the channel of Santa Barbara on the 9th of August and passed Point Concepcion on the 27th of the same month. It arrived at the Sierra de Santa Lucia on the 13th of September, entered that range of moun­tains on the 17th of the same month, and emerged from it on the 1st of October. On the same day caught sight of Point Pinos and the harbors on its north and south sides without discovering any in­dications or landmarks of the bay of Monterey. Determined to push on farther in search of it, and on the 30th of October got sight of Point Reyes and the Farallones at the bay of San Francisco, 1 which are seven in number. The expedition strove to reach Point Reyes, but was hindered by an immense arm of the sea, which, extending to a great distance inland, compelled it to make an enormous circuit for that purpose. In consequence of this and other difficulties, the greatest of all being the absolute want of food, the expedition was compelled to turn back, believing that it must have passed the harbor of Monterey without discovering it.

Started on return from the estuary of San Fran-1 The bay of San Francisco of the old Spanish geog­

raphers and navigators was what we now call " Sir Francis Drake's Bay."

H e r e fol low the la t i tudes o f v a r i o u s points , after w h i c h the letter c o n t i n u e s :

If the commanders of the schooners, either the San Jose or the Principe, should reach this place within a few days after this date, on learning the contents of this writing, and the distressed con­dition of this expedition, we beseech them to follow the coast closely towards San Diego, so that, if we should be happy enough to catch sight of them, we maybe able by signals of flags or firearms to apprise them where succor and provisions may reach us.

" G l o r y b e to G o d , " s a y s t h e p i o u s chroni­c ler , " the cross w a s e r e c t e d o n a l ittle h i l l o c k , c l o s e t o t h e b e a c h o f the smal l h a r b o r o n the s o u t h s ide o f P o i n t P i n o s , a n d at its foot w e b u r i e d the le t ter . "

T h e cross e r e c t e d a t t h e n o r t h s ide o f t h e P o i n t b o r e the s imple inscr ipt ion, c u t o n its t ransverse a r m wi th a r a z o r : " T h e o v e r l a n d e x p e d i t i o n from S a n D i e g o r e t u r n e d from this p l a c e o n the 9th o f D e c e m b e r , 1 7 6 9 , s t a r v i n g . "

T h e i r p r a y e r for s u c c o r w a s i n v a i n ; i t n e v e r r e a c h e d those to w h o m it w a s a d ­dressed. T h e s c h o o n e r s , after b e a t i n g u p t h e c o a s t as far as the la t i tude o f M o n t e r e y , w e r e d r i v e n b a c k b y a d v e r s e w i n d s , a n d , after m o n t h s o f fruitless effort to m a k e p o r t there , r e t u r n e d to San D i e g o , a r r i v i n g just in t ime

THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA.

to rel ieve the infant c o l o n y f rom starvat ion. T h e l a n d party p l o d d e d its w e a r y w a y d o w n the coast ,encounter ingsickness ,suf fer ing, pr ivat ion, a n d o c c a s i o n a l l y d e a t h , unti l o n the 21st o f J a n u a r y , 1 7 7 0 , its s u r v i v i n g m e m b e r s r e a c h e d

395

t ion in Cal i fornia. T h e r e w e r e interred t h e re­mains o f F a t h e r s Junipero Serra, J u a n C r e s p i , a n d R a f a e l V e r i e r .

San D i e g o a n d M o n t e r e y served to m a r k the e x t r e m e s o f the first Spanish o c c u p a n c y ;

San D i e g o , w h e n c e it h a d set out six m o n t h s a n d t w e l v e d a y s before.

T h e effort at miss ionary c o l o ­nizat ion w a s not , h o w e v e r , a b a n ­d o n e d . I n 1 7 7 0 a n o t h e r e x p e ­dit ion m o v e d u p the c o a s t , fol­l o w i n g the track o f the first explorers , w h o s e diary w a s their g u i d e , a n d f o u n d e d the Miss ion of San C a r l o s on the b a y o f M o n t e r e y , c lose to w h i c h w a s establ ished the presidio o f the s a m e n a m e . T h e p l a c e first se­l e c t e d p r o v e d unsui table for the site o f a Miss ion, a n d before the c lose o f 1 7 7 1 the e s t a b l i s h m e n t w a s r e m o v e d a few mi les to the s o u t h w a r d a n d p l a n t e d o n the b a n k s of the C a r m e l R i v e r , over­l o o k i n g the c h a r m i n g little b a y o f the s a m e n a m e . T h i s n e w foundat ion w a s ca l led " E l C a r -m e l o . " T h e presidio r e t a i n e d its site a n d s u b s e q u e n t l y b e c a m e t h e capi ta l c i ty o f the d e p a r t m e n t .

M o n t e r e y h a s b e c o m e in o u r d a y a f a m o u s w a t e r i n g - p l a c e fre­q u e n t e d b y visitors f rom t h e e n d s o f the earth , a n d the a n c i e n t M i s ­s ion, E l C a r m e l o , n o w litt le b e t t e r t h a n a ruin, c o n t i n u e s to a t t r a c t the at tent ion t h e interval w a s filled up a n d the area o f mis-o f travelers from its p i c t u r e s q u e site a n d from s i o n a r y c o n q u e s t g r a d u a l l y e x t e n d e d b y other the fact that it conta ins t h e r e m a i n s o f t h e s imilar establ ishments. T h e n a m e s o f these v e n e r a b l e m e n w h o s e p i o u s efforts c r e a t e d the institutions, founded in rapid success ion, are Miss ions a n d la id the f o u n d a t i o n s o f civi l iza- as f o l l o w s :

M I S S I O N O F S A N T A B A R B A R A .

3 9 6 THE MISSIONS OP ALTA CALIFORNIA.

1771 .—San Gabriel, San Fernando, San Antonio. 1 7 7 2 . — San Luis Obispo. 1776.—SanJuanCapistrano,SanFranciscodeAssisi. 1 7 7 7 . — Santa Clara. 1782.—San Buenaventura. 1786.—Santa Barbara. 1 7 8 7 . — La Purissima. 1 7 9 1 . — La Soledad, and Santa Cruz. l191-—San Juan Bautista, San Jose, San Miguel. 1 7 9 8 . — San Luis Rey. 1 8 0 2 .— Santa Ynez.

A f t e r this m i s s i o n a r y efforts s e e m to h a v e r e l a x e d , b u t a r e v i v a l a t a la ter d a t e l e d to t h e f o u n d a t i o n o f S a n R a f a e l in 1 8 1 7 , a n d

The Mission building is in the form of a hollow square of about one hundred and fifty yards front, along which a gallery extends. The church forms one of the wings. The edifice, a single story in height, is elevated a few feet above the ground. In the interior is a court adorned with a fountain and planted with trees, on the corridor extending around which open the apartments of the friars and the major-domo as well as those used for work­shops, schoolrooms, and storehouses, and the cham­bers set apart for the accommodation of travelers and guests.

The male and female infirmaries, as well as the schoolrooms, are placed in the most quiet portions of the premises. The young Indian girls occupy a

.1

S a n F r a n c i s c o S o l a n o in 1 8 2 3 . S o n o m a , a t w h i c h this last w a s l o c a t e d , w a s as far n o r t h as t h e missionaries p e n e t r a t e d .

T h e s e Miss ions w e r e , o f c o u r s e , d e s i g n e d for the instruct ion o f t h e r u d e a b o r i g i n e s in t h e truths o f Chr is t iani ty a n d in t h e arts o f c iv i ­l i z e d l i fe. T h e s c h e m e o f life a n d disc ipl ine w a s d e v i s e d b y t h e Jesuits , w h o in t h e s ix teenth a n d s e v e n ­t e e n t h centur ies o r g a n i z e d a n d car­r i e d o n t h e m o s t e x t e n s i v e s y s t e m o f miss ions i n e v e r y q u a r t e r o f t h e h e a t h e n a n d p a g a n w o r l d . I n d i a , C h i n a , J a p a n , b o t h c o a s t s o f A f r i c a , a l a r g e p a r t o f C e n t r a l A s i a , a n d b o t h N o r t h a n d S o u t h A m e r i c a w e r e t h e scenes o f the ir i n d e f a t i g a ­b l e l a b o r s .

T h e F r a n c i s c a n s , w h o s u c c e e d e d the Jesui ts i n Cal i fornia , f o l l o w e d their s y s t e m . I n o r d e r to i n d u c e the I n d i a n s t o a b a n d o n their n o m a d i c tr ibal l ife, a n d t o e x c h a n g e the ir r e l i a n c e for f o o d o n t h e fruits o f t h e c h a s e a n d the s p o n ­t a n e o u s p r o d u c t s o f t h e forest for t h e w a y s o f c iv i l i zed m e n , t h e y w e r e a t first suppl ied b y t h e missionaries w i t h f o o d a n d c l o t h i n g a n d a f terwards t a u g h t t o c u l t i v a t e t h e earth a n d s u p p o r t t h e m s e l v e s . T i m b e r w a s fel led w h e r e v e r access ib le a n d t r a n s p o r t e d to a suit­a b l e site, w h e r e , w i t h u n b u m e d b r i c k a n d tiles, t h e M i s s i o n c h u r c h a n d b u i l d i n g s w e r e e r e c t e d . T h e f o l l o w i n g descr ipt ion o f S a n L u i s R e y , c o n d e n s e d f r o m t h e a c c o u n t o f a n intel­l i g e n t t rave ler w h o s a w it i n its p a l m y d a y s , w i l l c o n v e y a fair i d e a o f t h e establ ishments o f w h i c h i t w a s a t y p e .

M I S S I O N A N D B E L L S O F S A N G A B R I E L , N E A R L O S A N G E L E S .

set of apartments secluded from the rest and com­monly called the " n u n n e r y , " and they themselves are familiarly styled the " nuns." They are thus entirely protected from intrusion, and, being placed under the guardianship of staid and trustworthy matrons of their own race, are taught to spin and weave wool, flax, and cotton, and do not leave the nunnery until marriageable.

The Indian children attend the same schools with those of the white colonists, and are educated with them. Those who exhibitthe most talent are taught some music, as the plain chant of the church, as well as the violin, flute, horn, violoncello, and other instru­ments. Such as attain superior proficiency, either as carpenters, smiths, or even agricultural laborers, are made foremen, by the name of alcaldes, and placed in charge of the other workmen.

Two ecclesiastics are stationed at each Mission; the elder is charged with the internal administra­tion and the duty of religious instruction, the

M I S S I O N O F S A N F E R N A N D O , L O S A N G E L E S .

younger, with the direction of the agricultural and mechanical labor. The Franciscans as­siduously cultivate the study of the Indian dia­lects, of which they have compiled dictionaries and grammars, some of which are still extant.

Industry is inculcated and encouraged by the constant example of the Fathers, who are always the first to put their hands to the work; and considering the meagerness of their resources, and the absence of European labor, the works they haveexecuted with theaid of un­skilled savages, of low intelligence, are marvels of architecture and mechanical skill. These comprise mills, machinery, bridges, roads, and canals for irrigation, besides extensive agricultural labors. For the erection of nearly all the Mission buildings large beams had to be transported from the mountains eight and ten leagues off, and the Indians taught to burn lime, cut stone, make bricks, tiles, etc.

Opposite the Mission building is usually a guard-house forlodging theescort of the priests, consisting of four cavalry soldiers, under com­mand of a sergeant, who act as couriers, carry­ing correspondence and orders from one Mission to another, besides protecting the Mission from the incursions of hostile Indians.

C L O I S T E R S A N D B E L L O F S A N F E R N A N D O .

T h e f o l l o w i n g is a s u m m a r y o f the ordinary d a y ' s w o r k at a Miss ion. A t sunrise the bel l i n n o c e n t a m u s e m e n t . T h e i r d iet cons is ted o f

s o u n d e d for the A n g e l u s a n d the I n d i a n s as- fresh b e e f or m u t t o n in a b u n d a n c e , w i t h v e g e -s e m b l e d in the c h a p e l , w h e r e t h e y a t t e n d e d tables a n d torti l las m a d e o f flour or c o r n - m e a l ,

m o r n i n g prayers a n d m a s s a n d r e c e i v e d a T h e y m a d e drinks o f the s a m e ingredients , short re l ig ious instruct ion. T h e n c a m e b r e a k - w h i c h w e r e c a l l e d atole a n d pinole r e s p e c t i v e l y , fast, after w h i c h , d is tr ibuted i n s q u a d s as oc- T h e i r dress consis ted o f a shirt o f l inen, a pa ir

c a s i o n required , t h e y r e p a i r e d to their w o r k . A t o f p a n t a l o o n s , a n d a w o o l e n s m o c k . T h e a l -1 1 A . M . t h e y ate dinner, a n d after t h a t rested c a l d e s a n d h e a d w o r k m e n h a d also c l o t h until 2 p. M . W o r k w a s t h e n r e s u m e d , a n d con- c l o t h e s l ike those o f the S p a n i a r d s ; the w o m e n

t inued unti l a n h o u r b e f o r e sunset, w h e n the r e c e i v e d e v e r y y e a r t w o c h a n g e s o f under-bel l a g a i n tol led for the A n g e l u s . A f t e r prayers c l o t h i n g , a s m o c k , a n d a n e w g o w n , a n d the rosary the I n d i a n s s u p p e d , a n d then T h e I n d i a n s of Cal i fornia w e r e n o t the w e r e free to t a k e par t in a d a n c e o r s o m e s u c h sturdy w a r l i k e race o f the eastern s ide o f the

3 9 § THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA.

cont inent , n o r d id t h e y possess the i n t e l l i g e n c e or part ia l c iv i l izat ion o f t h e n a t i v e s o f the t a b l e l a n d of M e x i c o . T h e y w e r e or ig inal ly o f l o w inte l l igence a n d brut ish habi ts . Bes ides w h a t t h e y o b t a i n e d f r o m fishing a n d h u n t i n g — in w h i c h they d o n o t a p p e a r to h a v e b e e n spe­c ia l ly d e x t e r o u s — t h e i r f o o d cons is ted l a r g e l y o f a c o r n s , p i n e nuts , a n d the l ike , a n d their c l o t h i n g w a s p r a c t i c a l l y T h o u g h nei ther as subt le n o r as f ierce as t h e I r o q u o i s , A l g o n -quins , a n d H u r o n s o f C a n a d a , w i t h w h o m P a r k m a n ' s bri l l iant p a g e s h a v e m a d e us fa­mil iar , t h e y w e r e n o t w a n t i n g in c u n n i n g , t r e a c h e r y , or ferocity, a n d o n m o r e t h a n o n e o c c a s i o n the missionaries s e a l e d their faith wi th their b l o o d — a sacrif ice f rom w h i c h , to their h o n o r b e it said, t h e F r a n c i s c a n s n e v e r f l inched, a n y m o r e t h a n t h e fo l lowers o f I g ­nat ius .

A s c o n v e r s i o n s m a d e p r o g r e s s a m o n g the n a t i v e s , a n d t h e y o u n g p e o p l e , i n s t r u c t e d from their c h i l d h o o d , c a m e to m a t u r i t y , t h e y w e r e t a u g h t v a r i o u s industr ies , b e s i d e s farming. O r d i n a r y smith 's a n d c a r p e n t e r ' s w o r k t h e y l e a r n e d to d o fairly w e l l ; their s a d d l e r y w a s o f a superior sort, a n d is still s o u g h t for. A s w e a v e r s , tai lors, a n d s h o e m a k e r s t h e y w o u l d

P R E S E N T C H A P E L O F S A N J U A N C A P I S T R A N O .

n o t p e r h a p s h a v e o b t a i n e d r e c o g n i t i o n in Par is , L o n d o n , or N e w Y o r k , b u t t h e y m a d e ser­v i c e a b l e b l a n k e t s , s e r a p e s , c l o t h , a n d shoes , a n d I h a v e seen credi tab le s p e c i m e n s o f their w o r k in silver. D o m e s t i c a n i m a l s w e r e i n t r o d u c e d a n d t h e y i n c r e a s e d w i t h as tonishing rapidi ty , a n d in the care a n d m a n a g e m e n t o f t h e m t h e I n d i a n s b e c a m e v e r y d e x t e r o u s a n d s e r v i c e a b l e — in fact, s o m e o f t h e m o s t skillful h o r s e m e n i n the w o r l d .

H i d e s , ta l low, grain, w i n e , a n d oil w e r e so ld

to ships v is i t ing the coast . F r o m t h e p r o c e e d s the friars d is tr ibuted to the I n d i a n s h a n d k e r ­chiefs , c l o t h i n g , t o b a c c o , rosaries, t r inkets , e tc . , a n d e m p l o y e d the surplus profits in the e m b e l ­l i shment o f the c h u r c h e s , t h e p u r c h a s e o f m u ­sical ins truments , p ic tures , o r n a m e n t s for the altar, etc . W h e r e l a n d s w e r e f o u n d sui tab le for t h e p u r p o s e the fathers es tab l i shed out­l y i n g farms as a p p u r t e n a n c e s o f t h e p a r t i c u ­lar M i s s i o n o n w h i c h t h e y w e r e m a d e to d e p e n d . A t these w e r e g a t h e r e d c o n s i d e r a b l e co lonies o f c iv i l i zed I n d i a n s s e l e c t e d f rom t h e most re l iable .

B e s i d e s ins truct ing the n a t i v e s a n d inc i ­d e n t a l l y fulfi l l ing t h e duties o f p a r o c h i a l c l e r g y , t h e M i s s i o n s e x t e n d e d a bount i fu l h o s p i t a l i t y to al l t r a v e l e r s a n d wayfarers . P l a n t e d a t in­tervals o f a b o u t a d a y ' s j o u r n e y , o n t h e n a t ­ural r o u t e o f t rave l a l o n g t h e c o a s t , t h e y b e c a m e t h e u s u a l r e s t i n g - p l a c e for all t rave lers in either d i rec t ion . H o r s e s w e r e t h e o n l y m e a n s of l o c o m o t i o n , a n d at t h e e n d o f h is h a r d d a y ' s r ide t h e w e a r y t rave ler s t o p p e d a t t h e d o o r o f the M i s s i o n b u i l d i n g as n a t u r a l l y , a n d w i t h as little t h o u g h t o f intrusion, as o n e m i g h t n o w at a p u b l i c h o t e l . T h r o w i n g his re in t o a n I n d i a n arriero, h e w a s r e c e i v e d b y t h e m i s ­

s ionary priest , o r i n his a b s e n c e b y t h e sacr is tan, w i t h t h e p a t r i a r c h a l h o s p i ­ta l i ty t h a t A b r a ­h a m e x t e n d e d to L o t . A b a t h w a s p r o v i d e d , f o l l o w e d b y a plent i ful m e a l a n d a c o m f o r t a b l e b e d . H e w a s a t l iberty t o s t a y as l o n g as his c o n v e n ­i e n c e r e q u i r e d , a n d o n l e a v i n g w a s pro­v i d e d w i t h a fresh horse a n d d i r e c t i o n s , or, i f n e e d e d , a g u i d e , for h is further j o u r ­n e y . P e r h a p s i t is a t radi t ion f r o m these e a r l y d a y s , b u t t rave lers still s p e a k

k i n d l y o f t h e hospita l i ty o f C a l i f o r n i a .

Serus in ccelum redeat!

T h e M i s s i o n s i n this State w e r e in al l t w e n t y -o n e . T h e y m a y b e said t o h a v e a t t a i n e d their m a x i m u m o f prosper i ty d u r i n g t h e first quar­ter o f t h e present c e n t u r y . T h e I n d i a n tr ibes of t h e c o a s t , as far n o r t h as S o n o m a , h a d b y t h a t t i m e b e e n r e d u c e d t o p u p i l a g e a t t h e v a ­r ious e s t a b l i s h m e n t s d e s c r i b e d , a n d those o f the y o u n g e r g e n e r a t i o n s h a d b e e n sufficiently in-

THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. 3 9 9

t a r y — i m m i g r a n t s from M e x i c o , o c c a s i o n a l t rappers , r u n a w a y sail ors , or o t h e r a d v e n t u r o u s fore igners , quos ratio dederal aul fors objecerat, h a d b y this t i m e b e c o m e sufficiently cons ider- ' a b l e to c r e a t e a d e m a n d for s u c h services . T h e r e w e r e still w i l d tribes in t h e m o u n t a i n s , to t h e north a n d east , b u t t h e y g a v e little t r o u b l e , a n d the friars s e e m t o h a v e lost the spirit o f miss ionary enterprise w h i c h c h a r ­a c t e r i z e d the c o m p a n i o n s a n d i m m e d i a t e s u c c e s s o r s o f F a t h e r J u n i p e r o , a n d sett led d o w n t o a quiet life a m o n g their n e o p h y t e s a n d w h i t e n e i g h b o r s , p r o d u c i n g f r o m the soil all t h e necessaries a n d m a n y o f t h e s im­ple l u x u r i e s o f life, a n d a c c u m u l a t i n g , for the I n d i a n c o m m u n i t i e s t h e y g o v e r n e d , pastora l w e a l t h , in t h e s h a p e o f c o u n t l e s s h e r d s of ca t t le , horses , s h e e p , g o a t s , a n d swine .

T h e g r a i n raised o n the M i s s i o n r a n c h e s w a s t h r e s h e d out , jus t as in E g y p t a n d M e s o p o ­t a m i a twenty- f ive h u n d r e d or three t h o u s a n d y e a r s a g o , b y s p r e a d i n g it o n t h e g r o u n d a n d t u r n i n g i n a b a n d o f horses t o t r a m p l e it. A r u d e mi l l , g e n e r a l l y t u r n e d b y h a n d o r b y horse­p o w e r , furnished flour, t h o u g h at t w o or three o f t h e Miss ions w a t e r - p o w e r w a s ut i l i zed for this p u r p o s e . A t e a c h M i s s i o n g a r d e n s a n d o r c h a r d s w e r e i n c l o s e d , w h e r e i n , b e s i d e s or­d inary v e g e t a b l e s , fruits o f v a r i o u s sorts w e r e c u l t i v a t e d , i n c l u d i n g t h e fig, t h e o r a n g e , t h e o l ive , a n d the v ine . T h e last t w o g a v e the mis­sionaries oil a n d w i n e in a b u n d a n c e , for use

M I S S I O N O F S A N J U A N C A F I S T R A N O .

to M i s s i o n p r o d u c t s , b u t I a m n o t a w a r e t h a t it has e v e r b e e n t a b u l a t e d . A n i d e a o f t h e m m a y b e f o r m e d from the s tatement that in t h e y e a r 18 2 0 t h e M i s s i o n cat t le are q u o t e d a t 140,000 h e a d ; the horses a t 18,000, the s h e e p at 190,000, e t c . T h e a v e r a g e a n n u a l p r o d u c t o f g r a i n , f rom 1 8 1 1 to 1820, is g i v e n at o v e r 1 1 3 , 0 0 0 b u s h e l s .

B u t the increase o f w h i t e sett lers, b r i n g i n g w i t h t h e m t h e w a n t s , a m b i t i o n s , a n d f r e e d o m o f m o d e r n life, w a s i n c o m p a t i b l e wi th the c o n ­t i nu e d s u c c e s s o f institutions b a s e d , as t h e Miss ions w e r e , o n paternal author i ty . T h e I n ­dians w e r e infants in all respects e x c e p t a g e a n d c a p a c i t y for e v i l ; a n d the settlers w e r e subject to n o restraints e x c e p t those o f t h e c ivi l author i ty , w h i c h w a s o f the w e a k e s t k i n d .

a n d sale. T h e catt le w e r e v a l u e d m a i n l y for their h i d e s a n d ta l low, w h i c h wi th s o a p a n d other e x p o r t a b l e p r o d u c t s w e r e so ld to vesse ls t r a d i n g a l o n g the coast , a n d p a i d for in d r y -g o o d s , cut lery , tools , c l o t h i n g , etc. T h e a r c h i v e s c o n t a i n a g o o d d e a l o f statistical information as

s t ructed in the s imple arts o f d o m e s t i c life n o t o n l y to carry o n the v a r i o u s industr ies m e n ­t i o n e d , b u t to m a k e useful s e r v a n t s to the ran-c h e r o s a n d w h i t e settlers, w h o s e n u m b e r s , r e c r u i t e d from d i s c h a r g e d a n d s u p e r a n n u a t e d soldiers , a few v o l u n t a r y — a n d s o m e i n v o l u n -

4 o o THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA.

C o n t a c t a n d intercourse with t h e m c o r r u p t e d m a l i g n , that the G o v e r n m e n t b e c a m e a l a r m e d the I n d i a n s a n d re laxed the b o n d s of disci- a n d s u s p e n d e d the o p e r a t i o n o f the l a w . B u t pl ine a m o n g them. M o r e o v e r the b r o a d acres it w a s t o o l a t e ; the m i s c h i e f h a d b e e n a c c o m -a n d the vast herds o f the Missions exci ted the pl ished a n d the establ ishments thenceforth v is-c u p i d i t y o f the settlers, w h o d i d n o t regard ibly d e c a y e d . A t rave ler o f 1 8 4 0 - 4 1 says that the p r o p e r t y o f the friars a n d I n d i a n s in the at the M i s s i o n o f S a n Jose as late as 1 S 3 7 s a m e l ight as that o f whi te p e o p l e . U n d e r F a t h e r G o n z a l e s t u r n e d o v e r to the a d m i n i s -these inf luences the M e x i c a n c o n g r e s s , in trators 17 ,000 h e a d o f catt le , of w h i c h as m a n y 1 8 3 3 , j u s s e d a l a w for secular iz ing the M i s - as 8000 r e m a i n e d u n a p p r o p r i a t e d in 1840, as sions, c o n v e r t i n g t h e m into parishes, repla- wel l as 200 horses a n d g o o o s h e e p , w h i l e four c i n g the missionary priests b y curates , a n d h u n d r e d I n d i a n s r e m a i n e d e v e n at that la te e m a n c i p a t i n g the I n d i a n s from their p u p i l a g e d a y g a t h e r e d a b o u t the Miss ion. H e w a s a lso to the C h u r c h . A d m i n i s t r a t o r s w e r e to b e a p - m u c h interested b y a s c h o o l , still i n e x i s t e n c e ,

I N T E R I O R O F S A N L U I S R E Y .

p o i n t e d for the temporal i t ies o f t h e Miss ions , the p r o c e e d s of w h i c h , after a smal l a l l o w a n c e for the m a i n t e n a n c e o f the priest a n d the c h a r g e s o f p u b l i c w o r s h i p , w e r e t o b e a p p l i e d to p u b l i c purposes .

U n d e r this l a w the g r e e d y pol i t ic ians o f the d a y w e r e e n a b l e d to p l u n d e r the Miss ions pret ty near ly to their heart ' s c o n t e n t . A d m i n i s t r a t o r s w e r e a p p o i n t e d , w h o a d m i n i s t e r e d a w a y the t a n g i b l e p r o p e r t y in favor o f t h e m s e l v e s a n d their friends wi th m a r v e l o u s industry a n d c e ­lerity. P e o p l e w h o s e n a m e s w e r e h e l d in es teem a m o n g the colonists , m e m b e r s o f the " f i r s t fami l ies , " leaders in p u b l i c o p i n i o n a n d p u b l i c affairs, are r e c o r d e d as h a v i n g d e s p o i l e d t h e Miss ions of their l a n d s a n d cat t le b y w h o l e s a l e . T h e desolat ion w r o u g h t w a s so r a p i d a n d c o m ­plete , a n d its effects on the I n d i a n p o p u l a t i o n so

w h e r e s ixty I n d i a n chi ldren surprised h i m b y their progress in e l e m e n t a r y studies, e s p e c i a l l y ar i thmet ic . I n 1 8 3 4 (after the secular izat ion) S a n L u i s R e y h a d a n I n d i a n p o p u l a t i o n o f 3500 a n d possessed o v e r 24,000 cat t le , 10,000 h o r s e s , a n d 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 s h e e p . I t h a r v e s t e d 14,000 f a n e g a s o f gra in a n d 200 barrels o f Avine. I n the s a m e y e a r S a n J o s e h a d 2300 n e o p h y t e s , 20,000 catt le , 1 1 , 0 0 0 horses , a n d 19,000 s h e e p , a n d h a r v e s t e d 10,000 f a n e g a s of gra in a n d 60 bar­rels o f w i n e .

T h e ruin o f the Miss ions w a s c o m p l e t e d b y the A m e r i c a n c o n q u e s t . T h e few r e m a i n i n g I n d i a n s w e r e s p e e d i l y dr iven or e n t i c e d a w a y , for the r o u g h frontiersmen w h o c a m e o v e r t h e p la ins k n e w n o t h i n g o f miss ionary friars or c iv­i l ized I n d i a n s ; t h e y c a m e here to s q u a t o n p u b ­l ic l a n d a n d r e s p e c t e d n o possession b e y o n d 160

THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. 4 0 1

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T H E M I S S I O N O F S A N * L U I S R E Y , S A N D I E G O C O U N T Y .

a c r e s , a n d that o n l y in the h a n d s o f o n e fa­mi l iar with the E n g l i s h l a n g u a g e a n d m o d e r n w e a p o n s . N o n e of the establ ishments retains its or ig ina l c h a r a c t e r . W h e r e p o p u l a t i o n has g r o w n u p a r o u n d the site, as a t S a n t a C l a r a , S a n F r a n c i s c o , a n d S a n R a f a e l , t h e y b e c a m e par ish c h u r c h e s . A t other p l a c e s squat ters t o o k possession o f t h e m , e x t r u d i n g priest a n d m a y o r - d o m o impart ia l ly , a n d in m o r e t h a n o n e c a s e e v e n t h e c h u r c h e s w e r e sacr i leg ious ly de­g r a d e d to t h e use o f stables a n d the l ike . I n others m a n y parts o f the b u i l d i n g s w e r e de­m o l i s h e d for t h e s a k e o f the t imber , ti les, a n d other b u i l d i n g mater ia l t h e y afforded.

T h e m o s t e x t e n s i v e o f the o ld es tabl i shments w a s t h a t o f S a n L u i s R e y . I v is i ted it wi th a c o m p a n i o n in the s u m m e r o f 1 8 6 2 . W e left S a n J u a n C a p i s t r a n o at an ear ly h o u r , a n d r e a c h e d S a n L u i s at a b o u t 2 p. M . , w i t h o u t m e a n t i m e m e e t i n g a h u m a n b e i n g or see ing a h o u s e or a

O u r w a y h a d t a k e n us

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w h i c h after m a n y w i n d i n g s found its w a y to the sea, w h i c h t h e n o p e n e d o n our sight, b o u n d ­i n g the western hor izon. I n the m i d d l e o f the va l ley , o n a s l ight e levat ion , rose the t o w e r s o f the o ld c h u r c h , the red-t i led r o o f o f w h i c h , a n d o f the a d j o i n i n g b u i l d i n g s o f the a n c i e n t M i s ­s ion, s h o n e b r i g h t a n d r u d d y in the g l a r e o f an a l m o s t t r o p i c a l sun.

T h e l a n d s c a p e w a s m a g n i f i c e n t , a n d w e p a u s e d a short t i m e to enjoy it before h a s t e n ­i n g o n to e x a m i n e the spot . T h e wal l s o f the q u a d r a n g l e r e m a i n e d in fair c o n d i t i o n , a n d the g r a v e l e d a p p r o a c h to the m a i n e n t r a n c e a p p e a r e d so n e a t that I w a s p e r s u a d e d it h a d lately b e e n s w e p t , a n d that I s h o u l d find s o m e inhabi tants wi thin . I effected an e n t r a n c e wi thout m u c h difficulty, a n d w a n d e r e d t h r o u g h the interior r o o m s a n d corr idors s e a r c h i n g for the a g e d sacr istan m y i m a g i n a t i o n h a d s u g ­g e s t e d ; b u t I s e a r c h e d in va in . N o s h a d o w w a s cast there e x c e p t m y o w n ; I h e a r d n o s o u n d b u t the e c h o o f m y o w n footsteps. T h e inte-

fence .

w a g o n trail in t h e r u g ­g e d foothil ls o f the Sierra, t h r o u g h t a n g l e d c h e m i s a l a n d under­b r u s h , crossed b y m a n y s teep b a r r a n c a s , w h i c h out o f Ca l i fornia w o u l d s c a r c e b e d e e m e d p r a c ­t i c a b l e for w h e e l s . Af­ter m a n y h o u r s o f this m o n o t o n o u s travel w e s u d d e n l y e m e r g e d from the c h a i n o f hil ls to the p r o s p e c t o f a c h a r m i n g v a l l e y , t h r o u g h w h i c h m e a n d e r e d a little s t r e a m o f crys ta l water ,

V O L . X L I . — 5 3 .

Tim

I N T E R I O R O F S A N L I T I S O R I S P O .

402 THE MISSIONS OF ALTA CALIFORNIA.

S A N T A Y N E Z , S A N T A B A R B A R A C O U N T Y .

rior c o u r t , o n c e a g a r d e n , b r i g h t w i t h flowers a n d the lustrous l e a v e s o f the o r a n g e a n d l e m o n tree, w a s r a n k w i t h w e e d s a n d s p o n t a ­n e o u s v e g e t a t i o n ; the fountain w a s dr ied u p , a n d t h e wal l s w h i c h conf ined its b a s i n split b y the s w e l l i n g roots o f n e g l e c t e d a n d over­g r o w n trees. G r e a t sp ider w e b s h u n g from t h e c o l u m n s o f t h e corr idor , a n d the stil lness w a s b r o k e n o n l y b y the d r o w s y h u m o f d r a g o n -flies a n d h u m m i n g - b i r d s . I e n t e r e d t h e v e n ­erable o l d c h u r c h , a n d w h i l e e n d e a v o r i n g to a c c u s t o m m y e y e s to t h e d i m , u n c e r t a i n l ight w h i c h s h r o u d e d its interior I w a s d is turbed b y the startled c r y a n d h a s t y flight o f a n enor­m o u s o w l , w h i c h left its p e r c h o v e r w h e r e the h i g h a l tar h a d s t o o d a n d rust led o v e r t o a w i n d o w at the oppos i te e n d . I a s c e n d e d o n e o f t h e t o w e r s t o t h e bel fry , w h e r e I p r o v o k e d a n o t h e r flight o f u n c l e a n b i r d s . T h e o l d c h i m e o f be l ls still h u n g there i n s c r i b e d w i t h the m a k e r ' s n a m e a n d " B o s t o n , 1 8 2 0 , " te l l ing p l a i n l y o f t h e intercourse o f t h e o l d mission­aries wi th the w h a l i n g fleets a n d t h e h i d e d r o g e r s w h i c h h a l f a c e n t u r y a g o w i n t e r e d o n t h e coast . P r o b a b l y t h e o r d e r for th e se bel ls h a d b e e n g i v e n i n 1 8 1 8 , a n d t h e y h a d b e e n r e c e i v e d , in p u r s u a n c e o f it , i n 1 8 2 1 or 1 8 2 2 . T h e r e w a s n o express i n those d a y s b e t w e e n B o s t o n a n d C a l i f o r n i a ; t h e j o u r n e y w a s m a d e via C a p e H o r n , a n d a c o u p l e o f y e a r s e l a p s e d b e t w e e n the d e p a r t u r e a n d t h e return o f a vessel . T h e M i s s i o n g a r d e n s , par t i cu la r l y that

i n front o f the m a i n b u i l d i n g , re ta ined m a n y traces o f former b e a u t y . B u t the h e d g e r o w s , o n c e careful ly t r i m m e d , n o w g r o w n rank a n d w i l d ; t h e o l d rustic seats c r u m b l i n g t o d e c a y ; the v i n e s a n d fruit trees, w h i c h for w a n t o f p r u n i n g h a d c e a s e d to p r o d u c e ; a n d t h e g a r d e n flowers g r o w i n g n e g l e c t e d l y — a l l t o l d o f d e c a y a n d ruin. F r o m the r e m a i n s of t h e founta in t w o c l e a r s treams of w a t e r still issued, a n d f r o m the l itt le rivulet t h e y f o r m e d , b o r d e r e d w i t h cress as g r e e n as a n e m e r a l d , a lazy fish l o o k e d de l iberate ly u p a t m e w i t h o u t m o v i n g — s o u n ­a c c u s t o m e d to m a n as n o t to fear h i m . J u s t before t h e A m e r i c a n c o n q u e s t this M i s s i o n h a d h a r b o r e d a n industr ious I n d i a n p o p u l a ­t ion o f severa l t h o u s a n d . I t h a d b e e n o c c u ­p i e d b y o u r t r o o p s as a mil i tary p o s t d u r i n g the M e x i c a n w a r a n d for s o m e t i m e after its c lose . W h e n it c e a s e d to b e so u s e d t h e G o v e r n m e n t , as I h a v e h e a r d G e n e r a l B e a l e say, c a u s e d a n est imate t o b e m a d e o f t h e e x p e n s e o f repa ir ing a n d restor ing it t o its former c o n d i t i o n . T h e figures w e r e t w o mi l ­l ions o f dol lars , a n d the p r o j e c t o f repa ir ing w a s , o f c o u r s e , g i v e n over .

I t s t a n d s there t o- da y , m a g n i f i c e n t , e v e n in its ruins, a m o n u m e n t o f t h e p i e t y , d e v o t i o n , industry , a n d dis interestedness o f t h e v e n e r ­able m o n k s w h o w e a r the h a b i t a n d c o r d o f St. F r a n c i s , a n d w h o w e r e the first colonists o f A l t a Ca l i fornia .

John T. Doyle.

A F A M I L Y C H A l ' K L ( C A M U I . O S ) .

X