Europe 5 Croatia v1

7/27/2019 Europe 5 Croatia v1

1/12

CR

O

ATIA

CR

OATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m C R O A T I A H i s t o r y

CroatiaHIGHLIGHTS Dubrovnik The jewel of the Adriatic coast has glowing Renaissance architecture enclosed

in a magnificent curtain of walls with dynamic nightlife and easy access to beaches

(p262) Hvar Island Nightlife Central on the Adriatic coast also offers daytime pleasures such

as lush, green hills, Venetian-style architecture and a smattering of offshore islands forsunbathing (p260)

Korula Island At the end of this forested island is the compact old town, surrounded bywalls like a mini-Dubrovnik (p261)

Best journey Do the boat circuit from Split, to Hvar, Korula and on to Dubrovnik, forthe best of the Dalmatian coast (p258)

Off-the-beaten track Get nekked with the other naturists amid the pine trees and discreetcoves of Lokrum Island (p264)

HISTORYModern Croatia is on the site of the ancientRoman province of Illyricum. Pula and Splitwere the two most important Roman towns.Slavs migrated into the region in the 7th cen-tury but political disarray tempted the Vene-tians to attack the coast. They established theirfirst foothold on the coast in the 11th centuryand remained until Napoleon conquered Ven-ice in 1797. In 1815 the Austro-Hungarianempire took control of Croatia, but with itsdefeat in WWI, Croatia became part of theKingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (Yu-goslavia). The Germans invaded in 1941 andtens of thousands of Croats joined the forcesof Josip Broz, known as Maral Tito.

After the war, Tito became prime minister ofthe new Yugoslav Federation. Croatia and Slov-enia moved far ahead of the southern republicseconomically. By Titos death in 1980, manyCroats felt the time had come for autonomy.When recently deceased indicted war criminalSlobodan Miloevi rose to power in Yugosla-

via on a wave of Serbian nationalism, a fearfulCroatia moved towards independence. Underthe leadership of Franjo Tuman, Croatia de-clared independence on 25 June 1991 but theSerbian enclave of Krajina (from northeast toeast of Zadar), fearful of their rights, proclaimedindependence from Croatia.

Heavy fighting broke out in the Krajina andSerb communities in eastern Croatia. In sixmonths of fighting, 10,000 people died, hun-dreds of thousands fled and tens of thousandsof homes were destroyed.

A series of international peace planshalted the fighting until, in January 1993, theCroatian army suddenly launched an offensivein southern Krajina, recapturing much land.Their hold was consolidated in a new offensivelaunched on 1 May 1995, which essentially setCroatias new borders. The facts on the groundwere recognised by the Dayton Agreement ofDecember 1995, which finally brought lasting

peace to Croatia and a tenuous peace to therest of the region.Franjo Tudjman became Croatias first

president and presided over a regime that

became increasingly oppressive and corrupt.President Tudjman succumbed to cancer in1999 and the 2000 election brought a centre-left coalition to power with Stipe Mesi electedpresident. The 2003 elections brought IvoSanader to power as prime minister presidingover a largely centrist government. Croatiahas entered negotiations to join the EU andis expected to become a member by the endof the decade.

THE CULTUREBefore the war, Croatia had a populationof nearly five million, of which 78% wereCroats and 12% were Serbs. After the massiveexodus of Serbs in 1995, todays population

of 4.5 million includes just 201,000 Serbs,slightly less than 5%. The next largest ethnicgroup is Bosnians, followed by Italians, Hun-garians and Slovenes. Small communitiesof Czechs, Roma and Albanians completethe mosaic.

Everywhere, youll find an emphasis onkeeping up appearances. People are well, ifnot flashily, dressed and it pains Croatians tosee dilapidation anywhere.

ARTSCroatias most famous artist is the sculptorIvan Metrovi (18831962), whose work is

seen in town squares throughout Croatia. Be-sides creating public monuments, Metrovidesigned imposing buildings, such as the cir-cular Croatian History Museum in Zagreb.Both his sculptures and architecture displaythe powerful classical restraint he learntfrom the French sculptor Auguste Rodin.Metrovis studio in Zagreb (p253) and hisretirement home at Split (p259) have beenmade into galleries of his work. Another no-table sculptor was Antun Augustini (190079), who created the Monument to Peace infront of the UN building in New York.

In literature, Croatias most important

writer was the 20th-century novelist and play-wright Miroslav Krlea. His most popularnovels include The Return of Philip Latinovi(1932) and Banners (1963).

Lonely Planet Publications

FAST FACTS

Area 56,538 sq km (about one quarter of

Britain)

ATMs Readily available in towns and trans-

port hubs

Budget 250KN per day

Capital Zagreb

Country Code%385

Famous for neckties, war, Goran Visnjic

Language Croatian

Money kuna (KN); 1=8.35KN;

US$1=6.63KN; UK1=12.45KN; A$1=5KN;

100=6KN; NZ$1=4.12KN

Population 4.5 million Phrasesbog (hello), dovienja (goodbye),

hvala (thanks),pardon (sorry)

Time GMT/UTC + 1

Visas None required for citizens of the EU,USA, Australia and Canada

TRAVEL HINT

Watch out for sea urchins in shallow water!

ROAMING CROATIA

Start in Zagreb, head down to Pula, then follow the coast south hitting Split, Hvar, Korula and

Dubrovnik.

Whether you call it the new Greece, the new Riviera, or the new Tuscany, Croatia has clearly

become the latest European gotta go destination. Its not surprising. With 6000km of coastlinewinding around innumerable bays and almost 1100 islands offshore, theres a dream spot forevery taste. You can wander through unspoilt fishing villages, relax on a secluded cove or partytill dawn in ancient cities.

Croatias crown jewel is the magnificent walled city of Dubrovnik, which has the lovely islandsof Hvar and Korula within easy reach. Italian food, language and culture has permeated Istria,on Croatias northern coast; and Zagreb, Croatias capital, is a calm and gracious city with awealth of Austro-Hungarian architecture. The unifying factor is Croatias Slavic soul, especiallyapparent during festivals and celebrations when centuries-old songs, dances and costumesanimate towns and villages around the country.

246 247


2/12


3/12

CR

OA

TIA

T R A N S P O R T G e t t i n g T h e r e & A w a y l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

OATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m T R A N S P O R T G e t t i n g A r o u n d

ENVIRONMENTCroatia has an incredibly diverse topographythat runs from the Pannonian plains of Sla-

vonia between the Sava, Drava and DanubeRivers, across hilly central Croatia to the IstrianPeninsula, then south through Dalmatia along

the rugged Adriatic coast. Of Croatias 1185islands and islets, only 66 are inhabited.There are eight national parks and a gener-

ally high level of environmental consciousnessamong Croatians. The lack of heavy industryin Croatia has left the country largely free ofindustrial pollution.

TRANSPORTGETTING THERE & AWAYAirThe following are the major airlines flying

into the country:Adria Airways (code JD;%01-48 10 011; www.adria-airways.com)Aeroflot (code SU;%01-48 72 055; www.aeroflot.ru)Air Canada (code AC;%01-48 22 033; www.aircanada.ca)Air France (code AF;%01-48 37 100; www.airfrance.com)Alitalia (code AZ;%01-48 10 413; www.alitalia.it)Austrian Airlines (code OS;%062 65 900; www.aua.com)British Airways (code BA; www.british-airways.com)Croatia Airlines (code OU;%01-48 19 633; www.croatiaairlines.hr; Zrinjevac 17, Zagreb) Croatias nationalcarrier.SA (code OK;%01-48 73 301; www.csa.cz)

Delta Airlines (code DL;%01-48 78 760; www.delta.com)Easyjet (code EZY; www.easyjet.com)Germanwings (code GWI; www.germanwings.com)Hapag Lloyd Express (code HLX; www.hlx.com)

KLM-Northwest (code KL;%01-48 78 601; www.klm.com)LOT Polish Airlines (code LO;%01-48 37 500; www.lot.com)Lufthansa (code LH; www.lufthansa.com;%01-48 73 121)Malv Hungarian Airlines (code MA;%01-48 36 935;www.malev.hu)SNBrussels (code SN; www.flysn.com)

Turkish Airlines (code TK;%01-49 21 854; www.turkishairlines.com)Wizzair (code W6; www.wizzair.com)

There are international airports in Dubrovnik(%020-773 377; www.airport-dubrovnik.hr), Zagreb(%01-62 65 222; www.zagreb-airport.hr), Split (%021-203 506; www.split-airport.hr) and Rijeka (%051-842132; www.rijeka-airport.hr).

BoatRegular boats from several companies connectCroatia with Italy and Slovenia. Companiesand routes arise, change or disappear from

season to season; its important to check infor-mation carefully. Many routes operate duringsummer only and the schedules are usually notavailable until late spring.

Jadrolinija(www.jadrolinija.hr;Rijeka%051-211 444;Riva 16, Ancona%071-20 71 465, Bari%080-52 75 439),Croatias national boat line, runs car ferriesfrom Ancona to Split (44, 10 hours) andZadar (41, seven hours), a line from Bari toDubrovnik (44, eight hours), a year-roundferry from Pescara to Split (44, 10 hours,twice weekly) and a summer ferry from Pes-cara to Hvar (44, nine hours, once weekly).

SEM (www.sem-marina.hr; Split%021-338 292; Gat Sv

Duje;Ancona%071-20 40 90) links Ancona with Zadarand Split, going on to Stari Grad (Hvar).SNAV (www.snav.com; Ancona%071-20 76 116; Naples%081-76 12 348; Split%021-322 252) has a car ferrythat links Split with Pescara (69, 4 hours)and Ancona (63, 4 hours) and Pescara withHvar (80, 3 hours). Sanmar (www.sanmar.it)does the same route for a similar price.

Venezia Lines (%041-52 22 568; www.venezialines.com; Santa Croce 518/A, Venice 30135) runs passengerboats from Venice to the following destina-tions once, twice or three times weekly, de-pending on the destination and the month:Pula (54, three hours), Opatija (57, four

hours) Rovinj, (52, 3 hours) and Pore

(522 hours). The company also covers otherIstrian destinations and runs some routesfrom Rimini and Ravenna.

Emilia Romagna Lines (www.emiliaromagnalines.it)is another company that has recently startedrunning summer passenger boats from Italyto the Croatian coast for similar prices. Routesrun from Ravenna, Cesenatico, Rimini andPesaro to Rovinj, Pore, Pula and Hvar.

BusEurolines(www.eurolines.com)runs buses to Zagreb

from Vienna (32, six hours, two daily). Thereare daily connections from Sarajevo (22,five hours) and Mostar (11, three hours)to Dubrovnik; from Meugorje, Mostar andSarajevo to Split (15.50, seven hours); andfrom Sarajevo to Zagreb (28, eight hours)and Rijeka (33).

Deutsche Touring GmbH (%069-790 350; www.deutsche-touring.com; Am Romerhof 17, Frankfurt) runsmany buses from major German cities toCroatia. Trieste is well connected with theIstrian coast. There are buses to Pula (14, 3hours, four daily). There are fewer buses onSunday. To Dalmatia theres a daily bus that

leaves at 5.30pm and stops at Split (35.60,10 hours) and Dubrovnik (64, 15 hours).Theres also a bus from Padua that passes

Venice and Trieste, Monday to Saturday, andthen goes on to Pula (24, 3 hours). Forschedules, see www.saf.ud.it.

There are six daily buses from Zagreb toBelgrade (19, six hours). The border betweenMontenegro and Croatia is open to visitors,allowing US, Australian, Canadian and UKcitizens to enter visa-free.

Theres a daily bus from Dubrovnik to theMontenegrin border at 11am, from where aMontenegro bus takes you to Herceg-Novi

(60KN, two hours) and on to Kotor (100KN,2 hours) and Bar (130KN, three hours).

Car & MotorcycleThere are numerous border crossings to/fromSlovenia, Bosnia and Hercegovina, and Serbiaand Montenegro.

TrainThere are two daily and two overnight trainsbetween Vienna and Zagreb (64, 6 to 13hours) and three go on to Rijeka (74, 11 to16 hours). There are four daily trains f romZagreb to Budapest (33, 5 to 7 hours).

Between Venice and Zagreb (44, 6 to 7hours) there are two daily direct connectionsand several more that run through Ljubljana.There are five daily trains that connect Zagreb

with Belgrade (18, seven hours). There areup to eleven trains daily between Zagreb andLjubljana (13, 2 hours) and four betweenRijeka and Ljubljana (12, three hours).

GET TING AROUNDBoatYear-round Jadrolinija car ferries operatealong the BariRijekaDubrovnik coastal

route, stopping at Split and Hvar and KorulaIslands. Services are less frequent in winter.The most scenic section is Split to Dubrovnik,which all Jadrolinija ferries cover during theday. You must buy tickets in advance at anagency or Jadrolinija office, since they are notsold on board.

From Rijeka to Dubrovnik the deck farecosts 25 (theres a 20% reduction on the re-turn portion of a return ticket) in high seasonlocal ferries connect the bigger offshore islandswith each other and the mainland.

Bus

At large bus stations, tickets must be pur-chased at the office; book ahead to ensurea seat. Tickets for buses that arrive fromsomewhere else are usually purchased fromthe conductor. Buy a one-way ticket only oryoull be locked into one companys schedulefor the return.

Car & MotorcycleMotorists require vehicle registration papersand Green Card insurance (which proves driv-ers travelling through Europe have insurancethat complies with the minimum insurancerequirements of the places that they drive

through) to enter Croatia. Hrvatski Autoklub(HAK; Croatian Auto Club) offers help andadvice; contact the nationwide HAK road assist-ance(vuna sluba;%987).

The large car-rental chains represented areAvis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz.

HitchingHitching is never entirely safe and we dontrecommend it. Hitchhiking in Croatia is un-dependable. Youll have better luck on theislands, but in the interior cars are small andusually full.

Local TransportZagreb has a well-developed tram system,as well as local buses, but in the rest of thecountry youll only find buses. On Croatian

READING UP

Marcus Tanners Croatia: A Nation Forged in

War is the most comprehensive recent ac-

count of Croatian history. From the Roman

era to President Tudjman, the complicated

struggles of Croatia are presented in a lively,

readable style. For insight into the changes

sweeping through Croatian culture, read

Slavenka Dragulis non-fiction: How WeSurvived Communism and Even Laughed,

Caf Europa and They Wouldnt Hurt a Fly

deal with various aspects of Croatia from

communism to war crimes trials in The

Hague.

250 251


4/12

CR

OA

TIA

Z A G R E B O r i e n t a t i o n l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

OATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m Z A G R E B S l e e p i n g

islands, buses are frequent between ferry stopsand major towns but connections betweentowns are spotty.

Taxis are available in all cities and towns,but must be called or boarded at a taxi stand.Prices are high (meters start at 25KN).

TrainTrain travel is about 15% cheaper than bus

travel and often more comfortable, althoughslower. Local trains usually have only unre-served 2nd-class seats. Reservations may berequired on express trains. Executive trainshave only 1st-class seats and are 40% moreexpensive than local trains.

ZAGREB%01 / pop 780,000Too often overlooked by tourists making abeeline for the coast, Zagreb is a fascinatingdestination on its own, combining the best of

Eastern and Western Europe. The sober Austro-Hungarian architecture in the town centre ac-commodates stylish boutiques, sleek cocktailbars and a smorgasbord of restaurants. Thebaroque buildings in the upper town are slowlybeing restored, lending Zagrebs oldest neigh-bourhood a look that recalls Prague. Stretchingout from the train station is a long park withbenches for picnicking and trees to nap under.No matter what the weather, theres a wealth ofdiversions in Zagreb. A proper pub-crawl couldtake weeks; theres an assortment of museumsand galleries to explore, regular concerts for theculturally minded and enough fine shopping to

max out a wallet-full of credit cards.ORIENTATIONThe city is divided into Lower Zagreb, whereyoull find most shops, restaurants and busi-nesses, and Upper Zagreb, defined by the twohills of Kaptol and Gradec. As you come outof the train station, youll see a series of parksand pavilions directly in front of you and thetwin neo-Gothic towers of the cathedral in thedistance. Trg Jelaia, beyond the northernend of the parks, is the main city square.INFORMATION

Internet AccessSublink (%48 11 329; Teslina 12; per hr 20KN;h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 3-10pm Sun) It was the first hereand has a comfortable setup.

Medical ServicesKBC Rebro (%23 88 888; Kipatieva 12;h24hr) Onekilometre east of the city, it provides emergency aid.

MoneyThere are ATMs at the bus and train stationsand the airport, as well as numerous locationsaround town.Atlas (%48 13 933; www.atlas-croatia.com; Zrinjevac 17)

The American Express representative in Zagreb.

PostMain post office (Branimirova 4;h24hr Mon-Sat,1pm-midnight Sun)Holds poste restante mail. This postoffice is also the best place to make long-distance tele phonecalls and send packages.Tourist InformationMain tourist office (%48 14 051; www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr; Trg Jelaia 11;h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri,9am-5pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Distributes city maps andfree leaflets. It also sells the Zagreb Card (90KN), whichincludes 72 hours of free transport and a 50% discount on

museums.Marko Polo (%48 15 216; Masarykova 24) Handlesinformation and ticketing for Jadrolinijas coastal ferries.Tourist office annexe (%49 21 645; Zrinjevac 14;h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Same services but fewer brochures.

Travel AgenciesDali Travel (%48 47 472; [email protected];Demanova 9;h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) The travel branchof the Croatian Youth Hostel Association (YHA), it canprovide information on Hostelling International (HI) hostelsthroughout Croatia and make advance bookings. It alsosells ISIC (International Student Identity Card) identificationfor 50KN.

SIGHTSKaptolThe twin neo-Gothic spires of the Cathedralof the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (%4814 727;h7am-7pm),built in 1899, contains ele-ments from the medieval cathedral on its site,destroyed by an earthquake in 1880. Remnantsinclude 13th-century frescoes, Renaissancepews, marble altars and a baroque pulpit.The baroque Archiepiscopal Palace surroundsthe cathedral, as do 16th-centuryfortificationsconstructed when Zagreb was threatened bythe Turks.

GradecFrom Radieva 5, off Trg Jelaia, a pedes-trian walkway called stube Ivana Zakmardija

leads you to the Lotrak Tower (h11am-8pmMon-Sat) and a funicular railway(3KN), which wasconstructed in 1888, and connects the lowerand upper towns. To the right is the baroqueSt Catherines Church, with Jezuitski trg beyond.The Galerija Klovievi Dvori(%48 51 926; Jezuitski trg 4;adult/student 20/10KN;h11am-7pm Tue-Sun) is Zagrebspremier exhibition hall. Further north and tothe right is the 13th-centuryStone Gate, with a

painting of the Virgin.The colourful painted-tile roof of the

Gothic St Marks Church (%48 51 611; Markovievtrg;h11am-4pm & 5.30-7pm) marks the centre ofGradec. Inside are works by Ivan Metrovi,Croatias most famous modern sculptor.On the eastern side of St Marks is the Sabor(1908), Croatias National Assembly. To thewest of St Marks is the 18th-century BanskiDvori Palace, the presidential palace.

Nearby is the former MetroviStudio (%4851 123; Mletaka 8; adult/concession 20/10KN;h10am-6pmTue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun), which now presents anexcellent collection of some 100 sculptures,

drawings, lithographs and furniture createdby the artist. Of the areas many museums,the most interesting is the Museum of the Cityof Zagreb (%48 51 364; Opatika 20; adult/concession20/10KN;h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun), witha scale model of old Gradec.

Lower TownZagreb really is a city of museums. Thereare four just in the parks between the trainstation and Trg Jelaia. The yellowArts Pavil-ion (1897), across the park from the station,presents changing contemporary art exhibi-tions. The second building north, also in the

park, houses the Strossmayer Gallery of Old Mas-ters(%48 95 115; adult/concession 10/5KN;h10am-1pm& 5-7pm Tue, 10am-1pm Wed-Sun), with paintings bygreat European painters from the 14th to the17th century. In the interior courtyard is the

Baka Slab (1102), from the island of Krk, andone of the oldest inscriptions in the Croatianlanguage.

The Arheoloki Muzej(Archaeological Museum;%4873 101; Zrinjevac 19; adult/concession 20/10KN;h10am-5pmTue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun) has a fascinating andwide-ranging display of artefacts from pre-historic times through to the medieval era.Behind the museum is a garden of Roman

sculpture.The Museum Mimara(%48 28 100; Rooseveltov trg

5; adult/concession 20/15KN;h10am-5pm Tue, Wed, Fri &Sat, 10am-7pm Thu, 10am-2pm Sun) houses a diversecollection amassed by Ante Topi Mimaraand donated to Croatia. Housed in a neo-Renaissance palace, the collection includesicons, glassware, sculpture, Oriental art andworks by renowned painters such as Rem-brandt, Velasquez, Raphael and Degas.

SLEEPINGZagreb is a pricey city to stay in but there are afew good hostel options. Private accommoda-

tion is a good bet, but you may find yourselfsouth of the train station in the blandly mod-ern Novi Zagreb section as there are limitedrooms available in the town centre.

HostelsRavnice Hostel (%23 32 325; www.ravnice-youth-hostel.hr; Ravnice 38D; dm 125KN; trams 4, 7, 11 & 12;i)Designed and run by an Australian woman,this really is a delightful option. Comfortable,clean rooms have two, four or 10 beds. Its justunder 2km from the city centre.

Studenthotel Cvjetno Naselje (%61 91 239; dm125KN;hmid-JulAug; trams 4, 14 & 17) Off Slavonska

avenija in the south of the city, this dormi-tory-style accommodation has good rooms(each with a bathroom) that are availableonly in July and August. Get off the tram atthe Vjesnik stop.

Omladinski Hotel (%48 41 261; [email protected];Petrinjska 77; 6-/3-bed dm 89/100KN, d 257.50KN) Al-though renovated in 2004, its still no greatshakes. At least its in the centre of town.

Private RoomsDoubles cost from about 250 to 280KN andapartments start at 380KN per night for astudio. Theres usually a surcharge for staying

only one night. Evistas(%48 39 554; fax 48 39 543;[email protected]; Augusta enoe 28;h9am-1.30pm &3-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm Sat) is closest to the trainstation. Di Prom (%65 50 039; fax 65 50 233; Trnsko 25a;

GETTING INTO TOWN

The bus station is 1km east of the train

station. Trams 2 and 6 run from the bus

station to the nearby train station, with

tram 6 continuing to Trg Jelaia. To walk

to Trg Jelaia from the train station, head

north for roughly 1km on the left side of

the park. The airport is 17km southeast oftown; take the Croatia Airlines bus (30KN)

to the bus station.

Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com252 253


5/12

CR

OA

TIA

Z A G R E B l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

OATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m Z A G R E B E a t i n g

hclosed Sun) is south of the town centre withrooms in Novi Zagreb.

HotelsKrovovi Grada (%48 14 189; Opatovina 33; s/d/tr/q 200/300/450/600KN) If you yearn to stay in ZagrebsUpper Town, heres your chance. The restoredolder house is set back from the street andsleeps eight in two large apartments with

shared bath.Hotel Ilica(%37 77 522; www.hotel-ilica.hr; Ilica 102;

s/d/tw/apt 349/449/549/749KN; trams 6, 11 & 12;ac)For small hotels, you cant do better thanthis stylish joint with comfortable rooms andfriendly service.

EATINGWhat youve spent on lodging, you can saveon meals; even the pricier places offer fillingpasta or risotto starters for 35KN to 50KN.

Boban(%48 11 549; Gajeva 9; mains 35-80KN) ThisItalian restaurant-bar-caf offers sophisticatedfood at good prices. It has an outdoor ter-

race and an indoor lounge and terrace that ispopular with Zagreb yuppies. Try the gnoc-chi made with squid ink and topped withsalmon sauce.

Kaptolska Klet(%48 14 838; Kaptol 5; mains 55-70KN)This inviting space is comfortable for everyonefrom solo diners to groups of noisy backpack-ers. Although famous for its meaty Zagrebspecialities, it also turns out a nice platter ofgrilled vegetables and a vegetable loaf.

Makronova(%48 47 115; Ilica 72; mains around 70KN;hclosed Sun) All very Zen and purely macrobi-otic, and more than welcome for those of the

vegetarian persuasion.

For dessert, slurp it up at Vincek (%45 50 834;Ilica 18),famous for its ice cream. Pick up yummyfresh produce at the fruit and vegetable market(Britanski trg;h7am-3pm), Dolac Market(h7am-2pm)and Gavrilovi(hclosed Sun), near Dolac Market,has cheese, smoked meat and cold cuts.

DRINKINGIn the Upper Town, theres the chic Tkalievawith a bevy of bars. In the lower town, theresbar-lined Bogovieva, just south of Trg Jelaia,which turns into prime meet-and-greet terri-tory each evening. Branimir Centre is a shop-ping and entertainment complex that has a

handful of shadowy bars with soft lighting,sleek furnishings and electronic music. Theplaces listed below open around noon for cafsociety and turn into bars at dinnertime.

To AustralianEmbassy (100m)

To US Embassy(10km);

Airport (17km)

(250m)

To Hotel Ilica

To Hungarian Embassy (500m);Serbian Embassy (1km)

To German Embassy (150m);Movara (2km); Di Prom (3km)

To New Zealand Consulate (500m);Brazil (1km); Movie Pub (1km);Aquarius (1.5km); Lake Jarun (1.5km);

Studenthotel Cvjetno Naselje (1.5km);abac (1.5km); Plitvice (140km)

Kaptol

Gradec

Donji Grad

Train Station

KomedijaTheatre

City Hall

ParkRibnjak

Botanic Gardens

klouievaMi

ika

Basariek

ova

Op

at

Mle

tak

a

Dub

r

Krlein

Gvo

zd

avkin

Put

Skalinska

Op

ato

vin

a NovaVes

Pe

tr

ieva

Katanieva

Kuieva

reichova

Freuden-Kamenita

Ivana

stube

etalite

iril

ome

tod

sk

aVis

ok

a

Ma

toe

va

Strossmay

erovo

Vranicanijeva

Tomieva

Oktog

on

Zakmar

ove

Aleksandr

stube

Perkoveva

Mikecovprolaz

Z

eli

ns

ka

ova

Crnatk

Kovaieva

dija

Koarska

Zvonarnika

Demetrova

Z

amen

ho

ffova

Tukanac

Rad

ie

va

Cesareva

Vlaka

Juriieva

Petrinjsk

a

zidom

Pod

Pra

ka

Ba

k a

e va

Amrueva

Ga

jeva

Tomi

slav

a

Gaje

va

Pe

trin

js

ka

Teslina

Tm

jan

ska

Tmjanska

Grgurova

Mir

amars

ka

Pa

rom lin

ska

Mesnik

a

Streljaka

IlicaIlica

Varavska

Nazorov

a

Dalmatinska

Fra n

k opa ns

k a

Demanova

Preradovieva

Masary

kova

G u

n d u

l i e

v a

PrilazGjureDeelia

G

u n d u

l i e

v a

Mihanovieva

Koturaska

BednjanskaUnska

Koturaska

Vodnikova Ru

nja

nin

ov

a

Bogovieva

Berislavieva

Haulikova

Tuk

ana

c Tkalieva

Ka

ptol

Bran

jug

ov

a

Baruna Trenka

Ilica

AndrijeHebrangaKlaieva

Sav

ska

KrnjavogaVukotinovieva

Medu

liev

a

Mira

marska

Jukieva

Savska

Ku

miiev

a

(Hebrangova)

Ribnja

k

TrgJelaia

Trg Nicole

Zrinjskogubia

(Zrinjevac)

trg

Trg kraljaTomislava

Strossmajerov

trg

Stareviev

trgPadiev

trgMarkoviev

trgJezuitski

Trg Petra

Preradovia

trgBritanski

Tita

trg

trg

Trg

trgRooseveltov

Trg braeMauraniev

Trg Marala

Maruliev

Mauraniev

Svaiev

20

22

16

35

32

7

34

39

31

40

30

27

13

12

45

25

3

14

44

2315

25

24

17

19

42

37

11

43

28

33

36

1

8

49

21

41

10

18

26

DBA

1

C

2

3

4

6

5

ZAGREB

(2km); Zoo (3km)

To KBC Rebro (1km);

Maksimir Stadium

To HAK

Centre (400m)Information

Ravnice Hostel (1.8km);

UK Embassy (1.6km)To Bus Station (150m);

alata

SheratonHotel

prolaz

Ra

tka

jev

ove

stube

ser

kova

Nova

Schl

os

Voninina

Vlaka

Martieva

Erd

ody

ev

a

K ra

lji c

e Je

le n e

orieva

D

oma

go

jeva

Trpimirova

Krianieva

Rakoga

Toma

iev

a

Augustaenoe

Branimirova

Smiik

lasova

Bokovieva

PHatza

KnezaM

islava

Dra

koviev

a

Pa

lmotiev

a

Branimirova

otarieva

Vlaka

trg

trg

velikanaTrg hrvatskih

Iblerov

FaizmaTrg rtava

Langov

29

6

38

4321

98

765

INFORMATION

13

121110

181716

1514

242322212019

27

2625

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

302928

363534333231

37

EATING

SLEEPING

383940

42

43

44

45

41

DRINKING

ENTERTAINMENT

TRANSPORT

C4

A4D4D4

E5C4

A4B3

D3

Slovakian Embassy.......................Marko Polo..................................

Main Tourist Office......................Main Post Office..........................French Embassy...........................Dali Travel................................(see 28)Canadian Embassy.......................Bosnian Embassy.........................Atlas Tr avel Agency.....................Art Net Club................................

D4C3A6

C3

B2D5

C2C2D2

A4C1C2

C2C2C1

C2C2

D4Masters..................................Strossmayer Gallery of Old

Stone Gate.................................St Mark's Church.......................St Catherine's Church................Sabor.........................................Museum of the City of Zagreb ..Museum Mimara ......................Metrovi Studio .......................Lotrak Tower .......................Galerija Klovievi Dvori............Funicular Railway.......................

Blessed Virgin Mary...............Cathedral of the Assumption of theBanski Dvori Palace....................Arts Pavilion..............................Arheoloki Muzej.......................

Tourist Office Annex.................Sublink.......................................Slovenian Embassy.....................

E5B3

D5

A3C2

A3D2C3

C3

C3Vincek.......................................Makronova................................Kaptolska Klet............................Gavrilovi..................................Fruit & Vegetable Market...........Dolac Market ............................Boban........................................

Omladinski Hotel ......................Evistas........................................Croatian YHA.............................

C3D4

E5

B2

B3

D6

D4

B6

Branimir Centre..........................Bulldog......................................Glob@l......................................Kset............................................Tolkien's House..........................

Academy of Music.....................

Croatia Airlines..........................

Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall...

F

1

E

2

3

4

6

5

200 m0.1 miles0

0



6/12

CR

OA

TIA

I S T R I A ( I S T R A ) P u l a l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

OATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m I S T R I A ( I S T R A ) P u l a

Bulldog(%48 17 393; Bogovieva 6) Belgian beerloosens up a crowd of young execs, sales reps,gophers and expats.

Tolkiens House(%48 51 776; Vranicanijeva 8) Thisplace is decorated in the style of JRR Tolkiensbooks. Its very Frodo.

Glob@l(%48 76 146; Hatza 14) Gays and lesbiansare more than welcome to take in the friendly,tolerant vibes at this caf-bar.

abac (%36 95 792; Jarunska ulica bb) Dont takeyour Mum here. The booze is cheap, the sceneis rowdy and youre only steps away fromAquarius (below).

Movie Pub (%605 50 045; Savska 141) This im-mensely popular pub has posters of moviestars on the wall staring with bemusement astheir fans sample 30 varieties of beer.

CLUBBINGThe dress code is relaxed in most Zagreb clubsbut neatness counts. The cover charge is usuallyaround 30KN.

Aquarius (%36 40 231; Ljubeka bb; tram 17) On Lake

Jarun, this is the night temple of choice forZagrebians of all ages and styles. The designcleverly includes an open-air terrace on thelake and the sound is usually house. Take thetram to the Jarun stop.

Movara (%605 55 99; Trnjanski nasip bb) Housedin a former factory, this alternative space iswhere to catch up with the latest Croatiangroups, from reggae to electronica.

Kset (%61 29 999; Unska 3; h8pm-midnight,8pm-3am Sat) Its now practically certified asZagrebs coolest club, running programmesthat range from cutting-edge jazz to the citysslickest DJs.

ENTERTAINMENTZagreb Events & Performances is availablefrom the tourist office and contains completelistings of concerts and events.

Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall (ticket office%61 21166; Trg Stjepana Radice 4;h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat) South of the train station, this prestigious

venue holds regular symphony concerts.Concerts also take place at the Academy of

Music(%48 30 822; Gundulieva 6a), off Ilica.

GETTING THERE & AWAYCroatia Airlines (%48 19 633; www.croatiaairlines.hr;

Zrinjevac 17) operates flights between Zagreb andSplit (475KN, one hour, up to four daily).Domestic buses depart from Zagreb bus

station(%61 57 983; www.akz.hr, in Croatian), to most

major destinations in Croatia, including Du-brovnik (170KN to 196KN, 11 hours, sevendaily), Korula (195KN, 12 hours, daily), Pula(125KN to 183KN, four to six hours, 13 daily)and Split (90KN to 143KN, five to nine hours,27 daily).

Domestic trains depart from Zagreb toPula (119KN, 5 hours, two daily) and Split(152KN to 143KN, six to nine hours, 27 daily).

Reservations are required on fast InterCity(IC) trains and theres a supplement that costs5KN to 15KN for fast or express trains.

GET TING AROUNDA dnevna karta (day ticket), valid on all pub-lic transport until 4am the next morning, isavailable for 18KN at most Vjesnik or Tisaknews kiosks.

Buy tram tickets at newspaper kiosks for6.50KN or from the driver for 8KN. Youcan use your ticket for transfers within 90minutes, but only in one direction.

Zagrebs taxi meters begin at 19KN and

then ring up 7KN per kilometre. All daySunday and other nights from 10pm to 5amtheres a 20% surcharge.

ISTRIA (ISTRA)Sometimes called the new Tuscany, Istria(Istra to Croatians) is the heart-shaped 3600-sq-km peninsula just south of Trieste, Italy,with a landscape of green rolling hills, drowned

valleys and fertile plains. The rugged and in-dented coastline is enormously popular withItalian tourists, comfortable with the excel-

lent pasta and seafood on the menus and thefact that Italian is a second language for mostIstrians. Pula with its Roman ruins makes agood base from which to explore the fishingports of Rovinj and Pore.

PULA%052 / pop 58,600Pulas star attraction is its Roman amphi-theatre, but theres also a wealth of otherRoman ruins to explore. Nearby are somerocky wooded peninsulas overlooking theclear Adriatic waters, which explain the manyresort hotels and camping grounds circling

the city. Most residents head out to VerudelaPeninsula for the nightlife and swimmingcoves, but stay in town for one of the manyevents at the amphitheatre.

OrientationIf arriving by bus or train, you can easily walkto the town centre. The train station is nearthe water about 1km north of town. From thetrain station, follow the waterfront south forabout 20 minutes to reach the Forum (wherethe tourist office is). The bus station is 500mnortheast of the town centre; walk west about10 minutes and turn left at Trg Na Mostu.

InformationYou can exchange money in travel agencies orat any post office. There are many ATMs.Atlas (%393 040; [email protected]; Starih Statuta 1)Finds private accommodation and organises tours.Enigma (%381 615; Kandlerova 19; per hr 20KN)Internet access.Jadroagent (%210 431; [email protected];Riva 14) Has schedules and tickets for boats connectingIstria with Italy.Main post office (Danteov trg 4;hto 8pm) Makelong-distance calls from here.Maremonti travel agency (%384 000; bus station;

www.maremonti-istra.hr) Changes money, finds accom-modation, rents cars.Tourist office (%219 197; www.pulainfo.hr; Forum 2;h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) With knowledge-able and friendly staff, it provides maps, brochures andschedules of upcoming events in Pula and around Istria.

SightsPulas most imposing sight is the 1st-centuryRoman amphitheatre (%219 028; Flavijevska; adult/concession 20/10KN;h8am-9pm May-Sep, 8.30am-4.30pmOct-Apr), overlooking the harbour and northeastof the Old Town. Built entirely from locallimestone, the amphitheatre was designed to

host gladiatorial contests and could accom-modate up to 20,000 spectators. The 30m-highouter wall is almost intact and contains tworows of 72 arches.

The Arheoloki Muzej (Archaeological Museum;%218 603; Cararina 3; adult/concession 12/6KN;h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun May-Sep, 9am-3pm Mon-FriOct-Apr), which presents archaeological findsfrom all over Istria, especially from the 2ndto 6th century AD, is on the hill opposite thebus station.

Even if you dont get into the museum,be sure to visit the large sculpture garden sur-rounding it and the Roman theatre behindthe

museum. The garden is entered through 2nd-century twin gates.Along the street facing the bus station are

Roman walls that mark the eastern boundary

of old Pula. Follow these walls south andcontinue down Giardini to the Triumphal Archof Sergius (27 BC). The street beyond the archwinds right around old Pula, changing namesseveral times. Follow it to the ancient Temple ofAugustusand the old town hall(1296).

The 17th-centuryVenetian Citadel, on a highhill in the centre of the Old Town, is worththe climb for the view.

Festivals & EventsAround the end of July a Croatian film festival isheld in the amphitheatre, and there are pop,

jazz and classical events, often with majorinternational stars, throughout summer. Askat the tourist office for the schedule and ticket-ing information.

SleepingMaremonti and Atlas will find private accom-modation (see left), but there is little availablein the town centre. Count on paying from110KN for a double room and up to 430KN

for an apartment. Most hotel accommodationis outside town in the sprawling resorts onthe Verudela Peninsula, which is about 6kmsouthwest of the city centre.

Autocamp Stoja (%387 144; fax 387 748; per person/camp site & car 50/105KN;hApr-Oct)Three kilometressouthwest of the city centre, Autocamp Stojais on a shady promontory, with swimmingpossible off the rocks. There are more campinggrounds at Medulin and Premantura, whichare coastal resorts southeast of Pula (take thebuses heading southeast from town).

Youth Hostel (%391 133; [email protected]; camp sites72KN, B&B/half-board 118/154KN) Only 3km south

of central Pula, this hostel overlooks a beachand is near one of the regions largest discos.Take the Verudela bus 2 or 7 to the Piramidastop, walk back to the first street, then turnleft and look for the sign.

Hotel Omir (%210 614; fax 213 944; Dobricheva 6; s/d450/650KN) Rooms are small but comfortable inthis family-owned hotel and its well locatedin the town centre.

EatingThe best local restaurants are out of town,but the cheapest places are in the centre andthe eating isnt bad. Youll have a number of

choices along Kandlerova.Jupiter (%214 333; Castropola 38; mains from 28KN)This popular place serves up the best pizzain town and the pasta is good too.



7/12

CR

OA

TIA

D A L M A T I A ( D A L M A C I J A ) S p l i t (S p a l a t o ) l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

O

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m D A L M A T I A ( D A L M A C I J A ) S p l i t ( S p a la t o )

Splendid Self-Service (%223 284; Trg I Svibnja 5;h9.30am-8.45pm) Its opposite the vegetablemarket and is simple and cheap.

Drinking & ClubbingThe streets of Flanatika, Kandlerova andSergijevaca are excellent people-watchingspots, and the Forum has several outdoor cafsthat fill up in the early evening; the trendiest

is caf-gallery Cvajner, with a stunning, art-filled interior.Theres no shortage of nightlife at any time

of the year. Pula is famous for its raves, usuallyheld at two venues in Verudela, Oasis and FortBourguignon. Keep an eye out for posters andflyers around town.

EntertainmentThe amphitheatre hosts a full schedule ofconcerts in summer.

Getting There & AwayBuses from Pula run frequently from the bus

station (%502 997; Istarske Brigade bb) down thecoast, including to Split (315KN, 10 hours,one daily) and Dubrovnik (454KN, 15 hours,one daily) plus the buses to Zagreb (152KN to183KN, five hours, five daily).

There are two daily trains to Ljubljana(125KN, four hours) and two to Zagreb(134KN, 6 hours), but you must board abus for part of the trip.

Getting AroundThe only city buses of use to visitors are bus1, which runs to the camping ground at Stoja,and buses 2 and 7 to Verudela, which pass the

youth hostel. Frequency varies from every 15minutes to every 30 minutes, with servicesfrom 5am to 11.30pm daily. Tickets are soldat newsstands for 10KN and are good fortwo trips.

DALMATIA (DALMACIJA)Occupying the central 375km of CroatiasAdriatic coast, Dalmatia offers a matchlesscombination of hedonism and historical dis-covery. The jagged coast is speckled with lushoffshore islands that are making Dalmatia one

of the worlds hottest tourist destinations.Roman ruins, spectacular beaches, old fishingports, medieval architecture and historic citiesmake a trip to Dalmatia unforgettable.

SPLIT (SPALATO)%021 / pop 188,700As the largest Croatian city on the Adriaticcoast and a major transport hub, Split (Spalatoin Italian) is more exciting than relaxing. Witha massive port sending ferries out to the Dal-matian islands and beyond, Split is a nearlyobligatory stop on a Dalmatian visit. Althoughringed with apartment-block housing of stu-

pefying ugliness, the remarkable DiocletiansPalace (a World Heritage site) makes a visitto the city more than worthwhile. As the sungoes down, all of Split turns out for a prom-enade along the harbour or a seat at one ofthe harbour-side cafs.

OrientationThe bus, train and ferry terminals are adjacenton the eastern side of the harbour, a short hopfrom the Old Town. Obala hrvatskog narodnogpreporoda, the waterfront promenade, is yourbest reference point.

InformationDISCOUNT CARDSSplit Card (60KN) Available from Turistika Zajednica andTurist Biro, this card offers free and discounted admissionsto Split attractions.

INTERNET ACCESS

Internet Games & Books (%338 548; Obala KnezaDomagoja 3; per hr 35KN) Luggage storage, informationfor backpackers, used books and an internet connection,near the ferries, bus and train station.Mria (%321 320; Kruieva 3; per hr 20KN) Internetaccess.

LAUNDRYLaundry (perun 1) Self-service.

MONEY

Change money at travel agencies or the postoffice. ATM machines are around the bus andtrain stations.Atlas (%343 055; Trg Brae Radia 6) The AmericanExpress representative.

POST

Main post office (Kralja Tomislava 9;htelephonecentre 7am-9pm Mon-Sat) Has a telephone centre.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Hostelling International (HI;%321 614; Domilijina8) Sells HI cards and is a good source of information aboutCroatian hostels.

Turist Biro (%342 142; [email protected];Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 12) Arrangesprivate accommodation, and sells guidebooks and theSplit Card.Turistika Zajednica (%/fax 345 606; www.visitsplit.com; Peristyle;h9am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pmSun) Has informational materials on Split and sells theSplit Card.

TRAVEL AGENCIESDaluma Travel (%338 484; www.daluma.hr; ObalaKneza Domagoja 1) Near the ferries, this agency findsprivate accommodation.SightsThe Old Town of Split is a vast open-airmuseum. Dating from the third centuryAD, Diocletians Palace(entry Obala hrvatskog narod-nog preporoda 22; admission free) is one of the mostimposing Roman ruins in existence. Facingthe harbour, the palace was built as a strongrectangular fortress, with walls measuring215m from east to west and 181m wide at the

southernmost point. It is also reinforced bytowers. The imperial residence, temples andmausoleum were south of the main street,connecting the east and west gates. Its mainfeatures include the Peristyle, a picturesquecolonnaded square; the open-area Templeof Jupiter, now a baptistry; and the cathedral(h7am-noon & 4-7pm), originally Diocletiansmausoleum.

The west palace gate opens onto medi-eval Narodni trg, which is dominated by the15th-century Venetian Gothic old town hall.Trg Brae Radia, between Narodni trg andthe harbour, contains the surviving north

tower of the 15th-century Venetian garrisoncastle, which once extended right to the wa-ters edge. The east palace gate leads into themarket area.

In the Middle Ages, the nobility and richmerchants built residences within the oldpalace walls; the Papalic Palace (Papalieva 5) isnow the town museum. Go through the northpalace gate to see Ivan Metrovis powerfulstatue (1929) of 10th-century Slavic religiousleader Gregorius of Nin.

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The town museum (%344 917; Papalieva 5; adult/concession 10/5KN;h9am-9pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & SunJun-Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun Oct-May),east of Narodni trg, has a broad and well-displayed collection of artefacts, paintings,

furniture and clothes from Split. Captionsare in Croatian.

The Arheoloki Muzej (Archaeological Museum;Zrinjsko-Frankopanska 25; adult/concession 10/5KN;h9am-2pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) , north oftown, is a fascinating supplement to yourwalk around Diocletians Palace. The historyof Split is traced from Illyrian times to theMiddle Ages in chronological order, with

explanations in English.The finest art museum in Split is theMetrovi Gallery (etalite Ivana Metrovia 46; adult/student 15/10KN;h9am-9pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-4pmTue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun Oct-May). Here youll see acomprehensive, well-arranged collection ofworks by Ivan Metrovi, Croatias premiermodern sculptor, who built the gallery as hishome from 1931 to 1939. To get here takebus 12 to the gallery, one kilometre west ofthe town centre, from Trg Republike every40 minutes.

Sleeping & Eating

Private accommodation is the best bet forbudget travellers, as hotels in Split are gearedtowards business travellers with deep pockets.You could go to Daluma Travel (left), but thereare usually packs of women at the bus, trainand ferry terminals ready to propose roomsto travellers. Prices rarely exceed 140KN for aroom but youll be sharing the bathroom withthe proprietor.

Hostel Split(%098-987-13-12; www.hostel-split.com;Vukasoviceva 21; dm 117KN;a) Only a short walkfrom Diocletians Palace, this friendly, family-run hostel is in an appealing stone building.Check-in is between 2pm and 8pm.

Hotel Bellevue(%347 499; www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr; bana Josipa Jelaia 2; s/d 490/670KN) The Bellevue isan old classic that has seen better days. Roomson the street side can be noisy but the locationis good and the somewhat faded rooms retaina certain charm.

Bufet Fife(Obala Trumbieva 11; mains from 30KN) Feaston Dalmatian home cooking side by side withthe local fishermen.

Makrovega(Plinarska 12;h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) Finally veggies and vegans have a placeto call their own, at least for lunches and earlydinners.

The enormous supermarket-delicatessen(Svaieva 1)

has a good selection of meats andcheeses for sandwiches. The market aboveObala Lazerata has an array of fresh localproduce.



8/12

CR

OA

TIA

D A L M A T I A ( D A L M A C I J A ) H v a r I s l a n d l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

O

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m D A L M A T I A ( D A L M A C I J A ) K o r u l a I s l a n d

DrinkingThe bars, cafs and restaurants of theBavicecomplex are perennially popular food andwatering holes for Split clubbers but there arealso a few spots in the town centre. Try TeakCaff(Majstora Jurja 11) for a drink on the terraceduring the day or more intense socialising atnight. Le Porta, next door, is renowned for itscocktails. Caf Song and Caf Shook(Mihovilova

irina) are shoulder-to-shoulder with youngSplit-sters at night.

EntertainmentCroatian National Theatre(%515 999; Trg Gaje Bulata;best seats about 60KN) Its worth attending an operaor ballet performance here for the architecturealone.

Getting There & AwayAIR

Split airport (%021-203 506; www.spli-airport.hr) isused by Croatia Airlines (Obala hrvatskog narodnogpreporoda 9) for daily flights to Zagreb (around

400KN, 45 minutes, daily).The bus to Split airport (30KN) leaves fromObala Lazareta 3 about 90 minutes beforeflight times, or you can take bus 37 from thebus station on Domovinskog (11KN for atwo-zone ticket).

BOAT

Jadrolin ija (%355 399), located in the largeferry terminal opposite the bus station, han-dles the ferry lines to Hvar Island The localcar ferry is cheaper (32KN, 1 hours) thanthe coastal line and theres a fast passengerboat to Hvar town (one hour) in July and

August, as well as a passenger boat (24KN,two hours) that goes on to Vela Luka (35KN,1 hours).

SEM(%338 292) runs a catamaran betweenVis and Split (26KN, 1 hours, July and Au-gust).

For passenger ferries, buy tickets at theJadrolinija k iosk (Obala Domagoja), near the trainstation.

Jadroagent(%338 335), in the ferry terminal,represents Tirennia Navigazione for connec-tions between Split and Ancona. Theres alsoa SEM agency in the terminal selling ticketsbetween Ancona and Split, Hvar Island and

Vis, as well asSNAV

(%322 252)

, which hasa connection to Ancona and Pescara (fourhours). For information on connections toItaly, see p250.

BUS

Advance bus tickets are recommended. Thereare buses from the main bus station besidethe harbour to Dubrovnik (118KN to 123KN,4 hours, 12 daily), Mostar 65KN to 95KN,three hours, four daily), and Zagreb (90KN to140KN, five to nine hours, 27 daily).

TRAIN

There are services between Split and Zagreb(see p251) via ibenik.

HVAR ISLAND%021 / pop 12,600

Beautiful Hvar Island is now a required stopfor restless international trendspotters alwaysalert to the latest island paradise. Hvar de-serves the honour, for it is the sunniest andgreenest of the Croatian islands. Called theCroatian Madeira, Hvar receives 2724 hoursof sunshine each year. The stunning interioris a panorama of lavender fields, peaceful

villages and pine-covered slopes.

Hvar TownWithin the 13th-century walls of medievalHvar lie beautifully ornamented Gothic pal-aces and marble-paved traffic-free streets. Along seaside promenade, dotted with small,rocky beaches, stretches from either end ofthe harbour. Along the promenade theres ahandful of bars and cafs that form the centreof Hvars busy nightlife scene.

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

Car ferries from Split deposit you in StariGrad but local buses meet most ferries in

summer for the trip to Hvar Town. Thetown centre is Trg Sv Stjepana, 100m west ofthe bus station. Passenger ferries tie up onRiva, the eastern quay, in front of PelegriniTravel.Pelegrini Travel (%742 250; www.pelegrini-hvar.hr)Finds private accommodation.Tourist office (%742 977; www.tzhvar.hr; cnr Trg SvStjepana;h8am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noonSun Jun-Sep, 8am-2pm Mon-Sat Oct-May) In the arsenalbuilding.

SIGHTS

The flavour of medieval Hvar is best sa-

voured on the backstreets of the Old Town.At each end of Hvar is a monastery with aprominent tower. The Dominican Church ofSt Marko at the head of the bay was largely

destroyed by Turks in the 16th century, butyou can visit the Arheoloki Muzej(ArchaeologicalMuseum; admission 10KN;h10am-noon & 8-11pm Jun-Sep) in the ruins.

At the southeastern end of Hvar, the in-teresting 15th-century Renaissance Franciscanmonastery(h10am-noon & 5-7pm Jun-Sep, plus Christ-mas week & Holy Week) has a collection of Venetianpaintings in the church, and a museum(admission

15KN;h9am-noon & 5-7pm Jun-Sep).In the middle of Hvar is the imposingGothic arsenal, its great arch visible fromafar. Upstairs off the arsenal terrace is Hvarsprize, Europes first municipal theatre(admission10KN;h10am-noon & 5-7pm Jun-Sep), built in 1612.On the hill high above Hvar Town is a Vene-tian fortress (1551), well worth the climb forpanoramic views.

For more activity, hop on a launch to thePakleni Islands, famous for nude sunbathing.

SLEEPING

Hotels in Hvar are expensive but Pelegrini

Travel (see opposite) can find you a roomfor 180KN to 300KN in the town centre. Ifyou show up in July and August without areservation, you will almost certainly windup far from town, perhaps even in an outly-ing village.

Jagoda & Ante Bracanovi Guesthouse (%741416, 091 520 3796; [email protected]; Povie kole; s 100-120KN, d 190-220KN) This friendly place is closeto the town centre and offers six spaciousrooms with private bathrooms, balconies andkitchen access.

Green Lizard Hostel (%742 560; www.greenlizard.hr; Luia bb; dm 110KN;hApr-Nov) This privately

run hostel fills an important gap for budgettravellers to Hvar. Rooms are immaculate,theres a communal kitchen, and there are afew doubles available with private and sharedfacilities.

EATING

The pizzerias along the harbour offer predict-able but inexpensive eating.

Bounty(%742 565; fixed-price menu from 55KN) Thisrelatively inexpensive place is a long-time fa-

vourite with locals and visitors. Konoba Menego(%742 036; mains around 80KN) On the stairwayover the Benedictine convent, this is also a

good choice.The grocery store (Trg Sv Stjepana) is a viablerestaurant alternative, and theres a morningmarket next to the bus station.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

The Jadrolinija ferries between Rijeka andDubrovnik stop in Stari Grad before continu-ing to Korula. TheJadrolinija agency(%741 132;Riva) sells boat tickets.

Car ferries from Split call at Stari Grad(32KN, one hour) three times daily (five dailyin July and August) and theres an afternoonpassenger boat from Split to Hvar town

(23KN, 50 minutes) that goes on to Vela Lukaon Korula Island (22KN, one hour). Evenmore convenient is the daily passenger boatKrilo from Hvar to Split (33KN, 1 hour)and Korula (33KN, 1 hours). See p250 forinformation on international connections.Buses meet most ferries that dock at StariGrad in July and August,but if you come off-season its best to check at the tourist office orat Pelegrini to make sure the bus is running.A taxi costs from 150KN to 200KN.

KORULA ISLAND%020 / pop 16,200

Besides the dense woods that led the origi-nal Greek settlers to call the island KorkyraMelaina (Black Korula), Korula is gracedwith indented coves, rolling hills and a walledold town. Swimming opportunities abound inthe many quiet coves and secluded beaches,while the interior produces some of Croatiasfinest wine.

Korula TownAt the northeastern tip of the isl and, Korulatown is tucked into a small hilly peninsula.Within its round defensive towers are red-roofed houses along narrow stone streets

designed to protect its inhabitants from thewinds swirling around the peninsula. KorulaIsland was controlled by Venice from the 14thto the 18th centuries, as is evident from theVenetian coats of arms adorning the officialbuildings.

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

The Jadrolinija ferry drops you off either inthe west harbour next to Hotel Korula orthe east harbour next to Marko Polo Tours.The Old Town lies between the two har-bours. Some car ferries land at Vela Luka onKorulas western end and most are met by

buses. The town bus station is 100m south ofthe town centre.Atlas (%711 060) Represents American Express, runsexcursions and finds private accommodation.



9/12


10/12

CR

OA

TIA

D U B R O V N I K O r i e n t a t i o n l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

O

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m D U B R O V N I K S l e e p i n g

OrientationThe Jadrolinija ferry terminal and the busstation are at Gru, several kilometres north-west of the Old Town. Theres a bus stopoutside the gates to the Old Town with busesto Gru harbour, Lapad and Cavtat. Themain street in the Old Town is Placa, whichis also called Stradun. Most accommodationis on the leafy Lapad Peninsula, west of the

bus station.

InformationYou can change money at any travel agencyor post office. There are numerous ATMs intown, near the bus station and near the ferryterminal.Atlas Old Town (%442 574; Sv ura 1); At the harbour(%418 001; Obala Pape Pavla Ivana II 1) In convenientlocations, Atlas is extremely helpful for general informationas well as finding private accommodation. All excursionsare run by the agency.Dubrovnik Internet Centar (%311 017; BraniteljaDubrovnika 7; per hr 20KN;h8am-midnight)

Gulliver (%313 300; www.gulliver.hr; Obala StjepanaRadia 32) Near the Jadrolinija terminal, Gulliver findsprivate accommodation, changes money and rents carsand scooters.Main post office (cnr iroka & Od Pua, Old Town);Lapad (etalite Kralja Zvonimira 21)Tourist Information Centar (%323 350; www.tic-stradun.hr; Placa 1) Across from the Franciscan monasteryin the Old Town, this centre is privately run.Turistika Zajednica (www.tzdubrovnik.hr) Outside Pilegate (%427 591; Dubrovakih Branitelja 7;h8am-8pmMon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-4pm Mon-Fri,9am-2pm Sat Oct-May); Old Town (%321 561; Placa bbh8am-8pm daily); At the harbour (%417 983; Obala

Stepjana Radi

a 27) Offers maps and the indispensableDubrovnik Riviera guide. The harbour branch has limiteddocumentation.

SightsYoull probably begin your visit at the bus stopoutside Pile Gate. As you enter the city, Du-brovniks wonderful pedestrian promenade,the Placa, extends all the way to the clocktower at the other end of town. Just insidePile Gate is the huge Onofrio Fountain, com-pleted in 1438, and the Franciscan monastery,with a splendid cloister and the third-oldestfunctioning pharmacy, dating from 1391, inEurope. The monastery museum (adult/concession20/10KN;h9am-5pm) presents a collection ofliturgical objects, paintings and pharmacyequipment.

In front of the clock tower, at the easternend of Placa, youll find the Orlando Column,which dates from 1419. On opposite sidesof the Orlando are the 16th-century SponzaPalace (admission free;h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSat) and St Blaises Church (hfor morning & late-afternoon Mass Mon-Sat), a lovely Italian baroquebuilding.

At the end of the broad street called Pred

Dvorom, beside St Blaise, is the baroque Ca-thedral of the Assumption of the Virgin (Poljana M.Drica;hfor morning & late-afternoon Mass) and, be-tween the two churches, the Gothic RectorsPalace (%426 469; Ped Dvorom 3; adult/concession 20/7KN;h9am-2pm Mon-Sat Oct-May, 9am-5pm daily Jun-Sep), built in 1441.

As you proceed up Placa, make a detourto the Museum of the Orthodox Church (Od Pua8; adult/concession 10/5KN;h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) for alook at a fascinating collection of 15th- to19th-century icons.

By this time youll be ready for a walkaround the city walls (adult/concession 50/20KN;

h9am-7pm), which have entrances just insidePile Gate, across from the Dominican mon-astery and near Fort St John. These powerfulwalls are the finest in the world and Du-brovniks main claim to fame. The views aregreat this walk could be the high point ofyour visit.

Whichever way you go, you will notice the14th-centuryDominican monastery(adult/concession10/5KN;h9am-6pm) in the northeastern cornerof the city, whose forbidding fortress-likeexterior shelters a rich trove of paintings fromDubrovniks finest 15th- and 16th-centuryartists.

The closest beach to the Old Town, BanjeBeach, is outside Ploe Gate. There are alsohotel beaches on the Lapad Peninsula.

An even better option is to take the ferry(services operate from 9am to 6pm) from theold port that shuttles half-hourly in summerto lush Lokrum Island (80KN return trip), aforested park with a rocky nudist beach, abotanic garden and the ruins of a medievalBenedictine monastery.Festivals & EventsDubrovnik Summer Festival (www.dubrovnik-festival.hr) From mid-July to mid-August, this is a major culturalevent, with more than a hundred performances at differentvenues in the Old Town.Feast of St Blaise (3 February)Carnival (February)

SleepingCAMPING

Solitudo (%448 686; Iva Dulia 39; per person/tent 50/87KN)This pretty camp ground is within walkingdistance of the beach, north of Lapad Bay.

HOSTELS

YHA Hostel (%423 241; [email protected]; Vinka Sa-grestana 3; B&B/half-board 129/160KN) Its not exactly

restful but youll have a lot of fun; there arebars and cafs close by.

PRIVATE ROO MS

Private accommodation is generally thebest option in Dubrovnik, but beware of thescramble of private owners at the bus stationor Jadrolinija wharf. Some offer what they saythey offer; others are rip-off artists. Otherwise,head to any of the travel agencies or TuristikaZajednica branches (see opposite). Expectto pay from 200KN to 220KN for a room inhigh season.

Apartments van Bloemen(%323 433;91 33 24 106;

www.karmendu.tk; Bandureva 1; apt 690-1000KN;a) Thisis the most personal and original accommoda-tion, with a great location in the Old Town.All four apartments are beautifully decoratedwith original art. Three of them sleep threepeople comfortably.

Vila Micika (%437 332; www.vilamicika.hr; MataVodapia; s/d 215/430KN) This is a simple, well-run establishment. The rooms are equippedwith TVs and modern baths, theres a pleas-ant outdoor terrace and its only 200m tothe Lapad beaches. Prices do not includebreakfast.

Bokun Guesthouse(%357 290, 098 17 62 140; boni

[email protected]; Obala Stjepana Radi

a 7; d 200-300KN)Not far from Gru harbour, this quiet, family-run guesthouse offers five rooms and anapartment that are simply but comfortablyfurnished.

HOTELS

Hotel Sumratin(%436 333; www.hotels-sumratin.com;etalite Kralja Zvonimira 31; s/d 460/760KN) About 200mfrom the water, this calm hotel in Lapad offersgood value for money.

EatingThere are dozens of places to chow down inthe Old Town, but theres not a great deal of

variety except in the toppings on your pizzaor pasta. Still, the overall value for moneyis good.

Kamenie (%421 499; Gundulieva poljana 8; mainsfrom 40KN) Portions are huge at this convivialhangout known for its mussels. Its terrace ison one of Dubrovniks more scenic squares.

Atlantic(Kardinala Stepinca 42; mains from 50KN) Thehomemade pasta and vegetarian lasagne inthis Lapad restaurant are outstanding, even ifthe ambience is not terribly atmospheric.

Pergola (%436 848; etalite Kralja Tomislava 1; mains

from 50KN) This is a consistently satisfying placewith an outdoor terrace and good seafood.

DrinkingBunieva square has a number of chic cafsand a young, local crowd fills the streets ofVetranovieva, Zamanijina and Dropevaevery weekend from around 9pm until the weehours. In Lapad, the pedestrian street, etalite Kralja Zvonimira, has a number of caf-bars forrelaxing after a hard day at the beach.

Pub Karaka (%324 014; Od Polaca 7) The EmeraldIsle is well represented here with Irish beer ontap, Irish music in the evenings and a happy

hour from 3pm to 7pm.Latino Club Fuego (Branitelja Dubrovnika 2) Despitethe name, youll find the gamut of dance music,including techno and pop, at this disco.

EntertainmentFrom mid-July to mid-August, Dubrovnikcomes alive with music during the Dubrovnik Sum-mer Festival (www.dubrovnik-festival.hr). See the websitefor the programme and reservations. There isalso an open-air cinema in the Old Town on ZaRokum and one in Lapad on Kumiia. Ask thetourist office for the schedule.

Getting There & AwayDaily flights to/from Zagreb are operated byCroatia Airlines (%413 777; Brsalje 9). The fare costsfrom about 300KN to 400KN one-way (onehour), and more in high season. The Jadro-linija coastal ferry travels north to Hvar, Split,Zadar and Rijeka.Jadrolinija(%418 000; StepjartaRadia 40) sells tickets and can provide informa-tion on coastal, international and local ferries.Jadroagent(%419 009; fax 419 029; Stjepana Radia 32)handles ticketing for most international boatsto/from Croatia.

Buses go daily from Dubrovnik to Korula(87KN, three hours, one daily), Mostar (82KN,three hours, two daily), Rijeka (391KN to309KN, 12 hours, four daily), Split (100KNto 111KN, 4 hours, 14 daily) and Zagreb(170KN to 196KN, 11 hours, seven daily).



11/12

CR

OA

TIA

C R O A T I A D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

O

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m C R O A T I A D I R E C T O R Y B u s i n e s s H o u r s

Getting AroundThe bus system in Dubrovnik is extensive andrelatively efficient. Bus tickets cost 10KN ifyou buy from the driver and 8KN if you buyfrom Tisak news outlets. Buses 4, 5, 6, 7b and9 travel to Lapad, and buses 1a, 3, 7b and 8travel to Gru.

CROATIA DIRECTORYACCOMMODATIONAlong the Croatian coast, accommodation ispriced according to three different seasons.Generally October to May are the cheapestmonths, June and September are mid-priced,while the high season runs for a six-weekperiod in July and August. Prices quoted inthis chapter are for the high season, but donot include residence tax, which costs fromabout 4KN to 7.50KN depending on the lo-cation and the season. Deduct about 25% ifyou come in June, the beginning of July, and

September; about 35% for May and October;and about 50% for all other times. Prices forZagreb are constant all year. Many hotels onthe coast close in winter.

The following organisations may be useful:Croatia Camping (www.camping.hr) Croatia CampingAssociationCroatian Youth Hostel Association (www.hfhs.hr)

CampingNearly a hundred camping grounds are scat-tered along the Croatian coast. Most operatefrom mid-May to September only, althougha few are open in April and October. In May

and late September, call ahead to make surethe camping ground is open before beginningthe long trek out.

HostelsThe Croatian YHA(Map pp254-5;%01-48 47 472; www.hfhs.hr; [email protected]; Demanova 9, Zagreb) op-erates youth hostels in Dubrovnik, Krk, Ri-

jeka, Zadar, Zagreb and Pula, open to YHAmembers. Nonmembers pay an additional10KN per person daily and receive a stampon a welcome card; six stamps entitle you toa membership. Prices fall outside the highseason.

Private RoomsPrivate rooms in local homes are the best formof accommodation. Often you are greeted by

offers ofsobe (private rooms) as you step offyour bus and boat. Although they can be great

value, if anything goes wrong (ie a suddenchange in rate) youre on your own. In town,travel agencies will find accommodation. Itswise to call in advance during the high season.In the cheapest accommodation, youll havea room in a family home and share the bath-room. In the most expensive, youll have your

own room or apartment with a private bathand sometimes TV. Breakfast is not includedbut can sometimes be arranged for an ad-ditional 30KN. If youre travelling in a smallgroup, it may be worthwhile getting a smallapartment with cooking facilities.

It makes little sense to go from agency toagency since prices are fixed by the local tour-ist association. Youll pay a 30% surcharge forstays of less than four nights, and sometimes50% or even 100% more for a one-night stay,although you may be able to get them to waivethe surcharge if you arrive in the low season.Prices in this chapter assume a four-night stay

in the high season.HotelsHotels are ranked from one to five stars withthe vast majority in the two- and three-starrange. One-star hotels have at least a tele-phone in the room. Prices in this chapter arefor the pricey six-week high season. Breakfastis included in hotel prices.

ACTIVITIESThe clear waters and varied underwater lifeof the Adriatic have led to a flourishing diveindustry along the coast. The real speciality

in Croatia is cave diving; night diving andwreck diving are also offered, and there arecoral reefs in some places but in rather deepwater. You must get a permit for a boat dive:go to the harbour captain in any port withyour passport, diving certification card and100KN. Permission is valid for a year. If you

dive with a dive centre, it will take care ofthe paperwork. Most of the coastal resortsmentioned in this chapter have dive shops.See Diving Croatia (www.diving-hrs.hr) for contactinformation.

BUSINESS HOURSUsual business hours are listed below, butalong the coast, life is a little more relaxed;

shops and offices frequently close aroundnoon for an afternoon break and reopenaround 4pm.Banksh7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon SatBars & clubsh8pm or 9pm-about 2am; many barsoperate as cafs during the day, opening around noon.Post officesh7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon SatRestaurantshnoon to midnight dailyShopsh8am-7pm Mon-Fri, until 2pm Sat

EMBASSIES & CONSULATESEmbassies & Consulates in CroatiaThe following embassies and consulate are inZagreb (see Map pp2545).

Albania (%01-48 10 679; Juriieva 2a)Australia (%01-48 91 200; www.auembassy.hr; Kaptol

Centar, Nova Ves 11)Bosnia & Hercegovina (%01-48 19 420; Hatzova 3)Canada (%01-48 81 200; [email protected];Prilaz Gjure Deelia 4)France (%01-48 93 680; [email protected];Hebrangova 2)Germany (%01-61 58 105; www.deutschebotschaft-zagreb.hr, in German; avenija grada Vukovara 64)Hungary (%01-48 90 900; Pantovak 255-257)New Zealand (%01-65 20 888; avenija Dubrovnik 15)Serbia (%01-45 79 067; Pantovak 245)Slovakia (%01-48 48 941; Prilaz Gjure Deelia 10)

Slovenia (%

01-63 11 000; Savska 41)UK (%01-60 09 100; I Luia 4)USA (%01-66 12 200; www.usembassy.hr; Ul ThomasaJeffersona 2)

Croatian Embassies & ConsulatesAbroadAustralia (%02-6286 6988; 14 Jindalee Cres, OMalley,ACT 2601)Canada (%613-562 7820; 229 Chapel St, Ottawa,Ontario K1N 7Y6)GermanyBerlin (%030-219 15 514; Ahornstrasse 4,Berlin 10787); Bonn (%022-895 29 20; Rolandstrasse 52,Bonn 53179)New Zealand (%09-836 5581; 131 Lincoln Rd,Henderson, Box 83200, Edmonton, Auckland)South Africa (%012-342 1206; 1160 Church St, 0083Colbyn, Pretoria)

UK (%020-7387 2022; 21 Conway St, London W1P 5HL)USA (%202-588-5899; www.croatiaemb.org; 2343Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington, DC 20008)

FESTIVALS & EVENTSMardi Gras Revived shortly after Croatian independence,this pre-Lent festival has gathered force in Croatia. Heldin February.Pula Summer Festival International pop and classical

stars give concerts in the Roman Amphitheatre (July toAugust).Dubrovnik Summer Festival From classical concertsto folklore shows and theatre, this festival takes place invenues around town and showcases Croatian performers(July and August).

HOLIDAYSNew Years Day 1 JanuaryEpiphany 6 JanuaryEaster March/AprilLabour Day 1 MayCorpus Christi 10 JuneDay of Antifascist Resistance 22 June (marks the

outbreak of resistance in 1941)Statehood Day 25 JuneVictory Day and National Thanksgiving Day5 AugustFeast of the Assumption 15 AugustIndependence Day 8 OctoberAll Saints Day 1 NovemberChristmas Day 25 December

INTERNET ACCESSInternet cafs are springing up everywhere.The going rate is about 20KN per hour, andconnections are usually good.

INTERNET RESOURCESThe best starting point to plan your Croatianholiday is the website of the National TouristBoard at www.croatia.hr.

MONEYThe currency is the kuna (KN). Banknotes arein denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10and five. Each kuna is divided into 100 lipa incoins of 50, 20 and 10. Many places exchangemoney, all with similar rates. Exchange officesmay deduct a commission of 1% to change cashor travellers cheques, but some banks do not.Hungarian currency is difficult to change inCroatia and Croatian currency can be difficultto exchange in some neighbouring countries.The euro is widely accepted as payment eventhough Croatia is not in the eurozone.

SPLURGE

For classic food in classy surroundings,

theres no better address in Lapad than

Levenat(%435 352; etalite Nikai Meda Puci a15; mains 80-120KN). Try one of the superblygrilled fresh fish plates with all the trim-

mings. Vegetarians can choose a mouth-

watering array of grilled vegetables.

266 267


12/12

CR

OA

TIA

C R O A T I A D I R E C T O R Y P o s t l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

CR

O

ATIA

l o n e l y p l a n e t . c o m

Although they are widely accepted in up-market places, dont count on credit cards topay for private accommodation or meals insmall restaurants. ATMs are available in mostbus and train stations, airports, all major cit-ies and most small towns. Many branches ofPrivredna Banka have ATMs that allow cashwithdrawals on an American Express card.For more information on costs and money,

see p268.

POSTMail sent to Poste Restante, 10000 Zagreb,Croatia, is held at the post office (open 24hours) next to the Zagreb train station. A goodcoastal address to use is c/o Poste Restante,Main Post Office, 21000 Split, Croatia. If youhave an American Express card, most Atlastravel agencies will hold your mail.

TELEPHONETo call Croatia from abroad, dial your inter-national access code,%385 (Croatias coun-

try code), the area code (without the initialzero) and the local number. When calling

from one region to another within Croatia,use the initial zero. The international accesscode is%00. Dial%901 to place an operator-assisted call.

To make a phone call from Croatia, go tothe main post office. Youll need a phonecardto use public telephones. Phonecards are soldaccording to impulsa (units), and you can buycards of 25 (15KN), 50 (30KN), 100 (50KN)

and 200 (100KN) units. These can be pur-chased at any post office and most tobaccoshops and newspaper kiosks.

VISASVisitors from Australia, Canada, New Zea-land, the EU and the USA do not require a

visa for stays of less than 90 days. For othernationalities, visas are issued free of chargeat Croatian consulates. Croatian authoritiesrequire all foreigners to register with the localpolice when they first arrive in a new area ofthe country, but this is a routine matter that isnormally handled by the hotel, hostel, camping

ground or agency that organises your privateaccommodation.

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitallyrestricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes

only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it toeveryone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of sayingthe above - Do the right thing with our content.

269268

Europe 5 Croatia v1

Documents

Transcript of Europe 5 Croatia v1