Europa Star Watch Aficionado USA 3.11

Brought to you direct from the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry

WATCH AFICIONADOSpecial Web & iPad Edition

USA & CANADA VOL.47 N°03 JUNE/JULY 2011

Free and direct iPad access via www.europastar.com

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EDITORIAL

EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL

Two very particular watches attracted a lotof attention at the grand watch fair ofBaselWorld: the Mikrotimer Flying 1000, amechanical chronograph measuring 1000th ofa second presented by TAG Heuer; and LeTemps Suspendu, a watch from Hermès, whichallows its wearer to temporarily forget the time.Everything was different between these twotimekeepers. And yet? Symbolically, these two watches reflect thetwo major and contradictory trends in contem-porary timekeeping. On the one hand, with a1000th of a second measurement, is expressedthe desire to push the art of mechanical time-keeping to its very limits, to attain what wasthought, up to now, to be unattainable. How,in fact, might we even imagine that an oscilla-tor could reach a frequency of 50Hz, thus beat-ing at the furious rate of 3,600,000 vibrationsper hour, and therefore theoretically capable ofmeasuring such a division of time—a thou-sandth of a second—a length of time that isnot even perceptible by the human mind? Then there is the opposite endeavour, onethat does not seek to divide time into ‘nanofractions’, but rather to suspend it, to forget it,to let the wearer detach from it, while stillbeing able to return to it at will. We would not be wrong to see, in these twoopposite directions of research, the perfectmetaphor of our societies, wrenched as theyare between ever accelerating and taking thetime to slow down. Should we run even faster,adapting to the instantaneous time that ourincreasingly sophisticated machines imposeupon us (this has already occurred in the global

financial and stock exchange transactions thatare completed in milliseconds)? Or, has it alsobecome imperative—and even urgent—toslow down, to stop, or at least to ‘suspend’ thisfrantic race of time?In a way, these two opposite types of watchesrepresent the debates of society, of politics, ofour ecosystem that exceed, by far, the domainof watchmaking alone. This demonstrates onceagain that the perception of time held by thesedifferent civilizations is a central element intheir basic identity. In the Mikrotimer Flying1000, time is an arrow that accelerates, travel-ling faster and faster towards an invisible goalor running linearly towards a target thatretreats as we approach it. In Le TempsSuspendu, time is a loop, a spiral that rises,always passing by the same points—pointsfrom which we have the leisure to move awayfrom in order to better come back to them.Consequently, there is an intimate time, aninterior time, a time that we can immobilize;and there is an exterior time whose implacablerule is indiscriminately imposed on everyone.This timekeeper offers a time of reflection(which literally signifies returning the thoughtonto itself) against a time of action, which itself,on the contrary, is a use of energy. Do we exaggerate then by using metaphors,which make the choice of a watch also a choiceof society? Not really. Let’s imagine quite simplya situation where two people meet. One haschosen to wear a Mikrotimer Flying 1000 onhis wrist, while the other has selected Le TempsSuspendu as his timepiece. It is a safe bet toassume that not only do their respective per-ceptions of time differ, but also their opinionson the notion of ‘progress’. So, make yourchoice. The future depends on it.

P.S. To learn more about these two watches,please see our Post Basel report.

R Pierre M. MaillardEditor-in-Chief Europa Star

A watchmaking torn between 1000th of a secondand the suspension of time

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Are you interested in any of the above articles? Yes, then click on www.europastar.com !

Type article’s title in SEARCH box

TWENTY-8-EIGHT REGULATOR A.S.W. by DeWitt 18-carat rose gold 46 mm timepiece equipped with a me-chanical movement with a patented Automatic SequentialWinding (A.S.W.) devise, driven by a peripheral oscillatingrotor. Hours, minutes and a dead-beat second that is di-rectly connected to the tourbillon cage. 72-hour power re-serve, round-shaped case with DeWitt’s signature imperialcolumn pattern on the flanks, tinted sapphire crystals,open-worked hands, water-resistant to 30 metres and lim-ited to 250 pieces. www.dewitt.ch

www.europastar.com

EDITORIAL A watchmaking torn between 1000th of a second and the suspension of time

COVER STORY DeWitt, luxurious neo-classic niche

POST BASEL In search of the perfect watch

STRATEGIES The very innovative Calibre Royal by Pequignet is here!

SPOTLIGHTS Orient Watch – The fusion of precision and beauty

Latest updates ...

Coming soon to Europastar.com

IN MOVEMENT Harry Winston, new impulsions in watchmaking • Urwerk - The pio-

neering researchers of the UR-110 • Christophe Claret launches his

brand with a gaming spirit • Watchmaking 2.0 by Hautlence • Antoine

Preziuso, ‘Operation Power’ • Swatch Group

STRATEGIES TAG Heuer - The first integrated chronograph with 1/100th of a second

• The belle coherence of Zenith • The two pillars of Corum • A new

tambour chronograph for Louis Vuitton • Raymond Weil - Music, Maestro!

• Maurice Lacroix, Seconds squared

GALLERY DeWitt, Badollet, Haldimann, Hublot, Hysek, Perrelet, Pierre DeRoche,

Claude Meylan, Maîtres du Temps, Franc Vila, Chopard, Epos, Fabergé,

Revue Thommen, Boucheron, Ebel, Frédérique Constant, Salvatore

Ferragamo, Versace, Graff, Pilo & Co., Swarovski, Technomarine, Van

der Bauwede, Alpina, Breitling, Eberhard, Oris, Porsche Design, Clerc,

Fortis, Paul Piccot, Rebellion, Ulysse Nardin, Blacksand, Movado, Noa,

Sarpaneva, Tendence

ON STAGE The rising strength of Armin Strom • Century and the art of sapphire crystal

• Armand Nicolet focusing for 2011 • Perrelet previews moonbeams

and tourbillons • Bell & Ross’s new vintage time ally • Ventura is

back—and alive, thank you! • Jean-Mairet & Gillman’s Hora Mundi •

Carl F. Bucherer adds to the Patravi EvoTec • Hanhart stays true to its

heritage and values • Victorinox Swiss Army goes clean and classic •

New looks and new boutiques for Bedat & Co • Philip Stein is feeling

good • Ernest Borel – The dancing couple expands its collection •

Haurex - Italian design, Italian time

DESIGN Mondaine Simply Elegant, Giant and Savonette • Obaku Denmark

launches an ultra slim sports watch • IceLink hits the slopes

BEHIND THE SCENES The art inside the movement

WORLDWATCHWEB® WorldWatchReport: Seven years of analyzing the watch industry

POST BASEL Perpetuals, pebbles and puzzles

Women’s watch galore

Incredible sports watches • Sports gallery

Just posted …

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THE SIMPLICITY OF INNOVATION.

LUMINOR 1950 8 DAYS GMT - 44mmP.2002 in-house calibre

Available exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists.

www.panerai.com

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EUROPA STAR WEB & iPad SPECIAL – COVER STORY

T he first watches bearing theDeWitt signature appeared atthe end of 2003, more than

seven years ago. When we look at the roadthe brand has travelled in such a short time,it is hard to believe that it has only beenseven years. This time is even more remark-able for many reasons, especially consider-ing that these past years have been ones ofeconomic turmoil, combined with a rash ofnew brands arriving on the watch scene.Yet, during these seven years, DeWitt hasstood out, above all, by its consistency,steadfastness and continuity. Since its very first models, the essentialdesign codes of the brand have been consis-tently maintained, and DeWitt has neverdeparted from its chosen path. But how canwe define this veritable ‘DeWitt style’ thatmakes its timekeepers so easily recognizable

by its enlightened watch clientele, to whomit exclusively targets its pieces? In responseto this question, Jérôme de Witt says that hehas always wanted to create a “particularniche in the high luxury segment, composedof very high quality products that are techni-cally different, innovative and stylisticallyrecognizable by their neo-classic allure, bytheir aristocratic flavour.”To this definition can be added the objective,announced at the very beginning, of gradu-ally mastering and “dominating” the cre-ation of timekeepers in all aspects: technical,through mechanical construction and inno-vation; the art of watchmaking, through therigorous requirements for quality anddesign; and by a deepening quest for a par-ticular vision. Step by step, DeWitt has thusprogressively evolved towards integrating alloperations into its manufacture.

Determination to be a trail blazerFrom a mechanical point of view, as well asaesthetically, Jérôme de Witt sees himselfas a trail blazer. He recalls that when helaunched his first watches at the beginningof 2000, “all the watch bezels were in theshape of softened circles, generally dis-creet, while today, all the bezels are muchmore expressive,” like his own bezels thathave always been highly notched, mountedon structured cases decorated with columns.This also applies to the dials. De Witt istherefore proud of having been among thefirst to propose stepped, three-dimensionaldials in the form of technical ‘layers’ thatare very complex to realize. And, wasn’t healso “right before all the others” sincetoday “nearly 80 per cent of dials are struc-tured like this”.

The special and highly refined work on thedials has always been one of the strongpoints of the brand. Who can forget theincredible shimmering and iridescent dialscarved out of delicate plates of tinted sili-con that were presented in 2007? This year,we can see the very fine grill on which issuspended the carriage of the brand’sTwenty-8-Eight Tourbillon—a grill thateveryone said was impossible to produce.Then, there is the exceptional sunburstguilloché pattern on the Twenty-8-EightAutomatic, which perfectly demonstratesthe great mastery attained by the brand inthis domain. In fact, it is one of only a veryfew watchmakers that produce this arti-sanal guilloché craft, in the most time-hon-oured manner possible, using traditionalmachines, some of which date back to the18th century.

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DEWITT, LUXURIOUS NEO-CLASSIC NICHE

TWENTY-8-EIGHT AUTOMATIC TWENTY-8-EIGHT TOURBILLON

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“Beginning at the end...”Technically, de Witt has also wanted toinnovate. He willingly describes his ownapproach by qualifying it as “bold”, cer-tainly, but also as “pragmatic”. As anexample, he describes how some of themechanical advances were introducedinto his various timekeepers, evoking con-stant force, the advanced use of differen-tials, and the patented mechanism ofautomatic sequential winding (A.S.W.)driven by a peripheral oscillating weight. “We began at the end, if we might say that,by developing complicated movements,”explains Jérôme de Witt, “but sooner orlater, we will have our own basic move-ment, which we are already working on. Forthe most complex of our own movements,we have always tried to work in a very prag-matic manner. And, based on the choicesmade at the beginning, our goal is to pro-pose something different. One example isthe peripheral rotor that is used this yearin the Twenty-8-Eight Regulator A.S.W.Horizons. We started with the technicalchallenge that we set for ourselves, and

with that as our objective, we advanced stepby step, gradually integrating the designand the technical.”From this particular approach comes theimpression of total consistency of thisremarkable timepiece presented at Basel-World this year. This new automatic tour-billon with a regulator display, entirelydeveloped and produced by the DeWittmanufacture, is based on the DW 8014calibre, presented last year. But it inte-grates a peripheral bi-directional oscillat-ing weight whose interior shape is sinu-soidal (as we can see in the photographhere). By oscillating, this sinusoidal ring,equipped with two winding arms, drivesthe automatic sequential winding system(A.S.W.). A system of clutching and declutch-ing disconnects the winding when 96 percent of the power reserve is reached (thedeclutching works using a lever that dis-engages the traction arm of the windinggear). This system guarantees the constantand stable distribution of the energy to theescapement. When the power reservedecreases and reaches 92 per cent, the

arm makes contact with the winding gearagain, thus guaranteeing the ideal opera-tional range. Moreover, this tourbillonmovement, featuring a variable inertia bal-ance equipped with a Straumann balancespring with a Phillips curve, contains adead-seconds device that makes one jumpper second. Its lever is driven directly by thetourbillon carriage, via the intermediary ofa small pinion sliding on each tooth of theseconds gear, a device thus giving the time-piece its classification as a ‘regulator’.

Inspired by New York and Art Déco Emblematic of the new Twenty-8-Eightcollection, the design of this watch wasinspired by the ‘streamline’ movement ofthe Art Déco period and by New York City,to which it pays homage. The tourbilloncarriage is thus mounted on a plate evok-ing the columns of an Art Déco building,whose base is decorated in a sunburstmanner that flares out at the sides. Wefind this same decoration in slightly differ-ent forms in the other pieces of the collec-

tion, such as the very lovely Twenty-8-EightTourbillon (equipped with a movementthat was entirely designed and producedin-house, including the spiral). Its semi-transparent tourbillon carriage—sur-mounted by a series of columns that arestylistically both futuristic and Art Déco—ismounted on a very delicate grill that letsyou discern the beats of the movement. Asis often the case at DeWitt, a sunburstdesign radiates over the dial divided intotwo coloured zones: anthracite and cream,grey and mysterious blue.A similar radiating motif is found in theTwenty-8-Eight Automatic, particularly el-egant and refined, divided into two zonesof guillochage, tone-on-tone. One is centraland evokes flames while the other radiatestowards the edge. This piece, which de Wittqualifies as “urban and classic”, gives theimpression of lightness and subtlety—while at the same time possessing the dis-tinct and affirmed characteristics of thebrand. The case is smaller; the motif of thetraditional columns decorating the sides ofthe case is softer; and the horns are thinner.


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TWENTY-8-EIGHT REGULATOR A.S.W. HORIZONS

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But all the rest is definitely ‘DeWittian’. We could say the same thing about the‘DeWittian’ character—this time emi-nently more sporty in nature—of the newAcademia Quantième Perpétuel Sport andChronostream models. The ‘retro-futuris-tic’ inspiration, the sunburst design, the

very noticeable notches on the bezel, andthe cleanness of the lines are found inthese models that offer a neo-classicvision that is rather rare in the domain ofsports watches. This neo-classicism, in theparticular case of the very red AcademiaQuantième Perpétuel Sport, goes hand in

hand with the most contemporary materi-als, such as titanium in the case, bezel,crown and screws, and with the black rub-ber inserted between the columns on thesides of the case.The particularly advanced finishings—ver-tically satined finishes alternating with cir-cular satined finishes, the movement’spolished and chamfered surfaces visiblethrough the sapphire crystal case back,and alternating mat and brilliant sur-faces—right up to the red top-stitchedblack alligator strap, confer upon this piecea sporty and perfectly luxurious look.

At the heart of service"We try to reach to perfect luxury" asJérôme de Witt likes to say, since “thenotion of luxury is not purely commercialand is not limited to only the object itself.Luxury is also all that surrounds the prod-uct, all that goes with it. Luxury is thesharing of common values.”The notion of service and of sharing (of‘transparency’ we might say today) is atthe heart of all of DeWitt’s commercialactivities. In this manner, starting in May2011, each watch is accompanied with anew electronic guarantee card. Personaland containing the ID number of thewatch, it gives the owner a password-pro-tected access to an exclusive area that isdedicated to him. “We want to create a

direct connection with our client, to deepenour relationship with him,” explainsJérôme de Witt. “This relationship naturallyinvolves the excellent service that we offer.For many brands, the notion of service hasbeen dramatically altered: service hasturned into a profit centre. We are commit-ted to just the opposite. Using this platformof exchange and traceability, we can takeback the pieces that are necessary, andprovide free service to our clients, whomwe consider as true partners. In addition,this new card, giving access to an exclusiveand interactive area of exchange and onethat will evolve, is now delivered with eachwatch. It will follow the watch during itslifetime. But it is also retroactive: for thosewho have purchased DeWitt watches ear-lier, they can have their own card by merelyrequesting it.” This superlative service thus concerns allthe DeWitt pieces in circulation, or about10,000 watches created over the first yearsof the brand’s aristocratic saga. In fact, thissaga, in its own way, has just begun. Let’swait until the integration of the DeWittmanufacture is even more complete, whenwe will be able to discover, in the years tocome, the Geneva brand’s own in-housebasic movements as well as the integratedchronographs that it intends to develop.

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DE WITT X WATCHFor the third DeWitt timepiece for the Only Watch Charity Auction in favour of re-search programmes for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (DMD), (to be held inMonaco on September 22), De Witt is continuing its exploration of reversiblewatches. After last year’s Antipode, the X-Watch pushes this concept even further.The ‘X’-shaped bonnet that partly covers the face of the watch is activated by fourpush-pieces positioned in the upper and lower part of the case. By pressing thepush-pieces, the ‘X’ separates in the middle and smoothly opens up to disclose theface of the watch. A special mechanism has been integrated to control the speedof the opening. The rotation of the 49 mm Grade 5 Titanium case is only liberatedwhen the ‘X’ is in the open position. The case can then be flipped over and lockedagain by closing the ‘X’. Quite naturally, the ‘X’ is designed in such a way that allthe features of the watch remain perfectly readable even when the bonnet is inthe closed position. The X-Watch houses a single reversible movement displayingbi-retrograde hours and minutes on each side, a chronograph on one side and anautomatic tourbillon on the other. The calibre also features a patented AutomaticSequential Winding (A.S.W.) device driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor. Built outof some 535 components, the calibre DW 8046 is the perfect illustration of the in-ventive audacity of DeWitt’s master watchmakers.

ACADEMIA QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL SPORT

ACADEMIA CHRONOSTREAM

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ARMIN Racing One Week

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Together with its Formula-1 partner, Marussia Virgin Racing,

Armin Strom has developed a collection of exclusive time-

keepers, custom-built for motor racing refl ecting the Marussia

Virgin Racing team colours. Materials used in motor racing

are also used in the movement components – a fusion between

the motor industry technology and the art of watch making.

The ARMIN Racing One Week with the ARM09 Manufacture

movement is limited to 40 pieces.

Manufactory calibre ARM09-MVR

USA311:Layout 1 10.6.2011 11:27


Which watch would you buy?On the last day of the international showfor watches and jewellery—or more sim-ply called BaselWorld 2011—someoneasked me the predictable question: “If youhad total freedom to choose a watch, whatwould you purchase?”I have to admit that I did not have a readyanswer. The mission of a watch journalist isto have all of the world’s most beautifulwatches pass through his hands. Why, then,would he want to own one in particular?It was even more difficult for me to respondimmediately to this question because, dur-ing this watch week, I saw so many time-pieces that were described, boasted about,even meticulously explained to me—and, believe me, some sorely needed to beexplained—that a form of general confu-sion clouded my head. Just think about it for a moment. Therewere 627 watch companies exhibiting atBaselWorld. Now, multiply that number byseveral new collections and then again bythe number of references in each collection.Finally, you will arrive at a number that isbeyond comprehension. And, we mightadd, this large number demonstrates howcreative juices can express themselves inamazing ways, all in the space of just a fewsquare centimetres—most often round butsometimes rectangular, and sometimes,although rarely, in a variety of weird shapes(although these are generally not the mostsuccessful of timepieces).

How can we sufficiently understand andappreciate this incessant flood of designsand technical ingenuity? There is no pointin talking about BaselWorld in a chrono-logical sense. This would merely be repro-ducing and duplicating the prevailing con-fusion because, in 2011 (first year of the‘post-crisis’ for some but not all), any andeverything is possible. Did you think, forexample, that bling had definitively goneby the wayside? Well, think again. Just paya small visit to someone like Jacob & Coto witness first hand the resurrection ofBling King, just released from Americanjails and immediately flaunting more than$100 million of diamonds, arranged in theshape of watches (which is not the samething as a watch decorated with diamonds)

in the display cases at BaselWorld. Thecollection was completed with a more‘watchmaking’ line (with notably—ahyes—a striking tourbillon on a rotor),restructured by the enfant terrible ofSwiss watchmaking, Yvan Arpa. You thought that all watches were going tobe ultra-flat and minimalist? Big mistake.While sizes have become—a little—smaller,you still could find all the watches intendedfor thick-necked truckers that you couldever hope to see. You were sure that the mechanical folliessuch as the ‘tourbillon on top of a tourbillonplaced on an off-centred oscillating weightdriving a perpetual calendar with chimewhile passing by the jackpot square’ weredead and buried? Nope, wrong again. Thecrazy young men with their flying mechani-cals are alive and well. And, in a certain way,so much the better because this baroqueeffervescence—not to be confused with theordinary timepieces (three hands or simplechronographs) that make up the bread andbutter of the watch industry—is a sign thatwatchmaking is and remains a wonderfulmirror of our world in turmoil. Just look atthe number of young people who are stillattracted by the pot of gold—potential goldsince many will be disappointed—and youwill understand that watchmaking, in a crisisor a post-crisis mode, continues to exercisean enormous power of attraction. Thispower of attraction is, however, out of pro-portion to its real weight in the global econ-omy. As an example, let’s compare Swisswatch exports totalling CHF 17 or 18 billionannually with the more than CHF 400 billionin sales generated every year by Wal-Mart.Economically, Swiss watch exports are,indeed, a drop in the bucket. But, in terms ofimage, they are enormously important.

Cleansing the eyesConfronted with this aesthetic and tech-nical inundation, faced with so many dif-

ferent propositions, it was necessary—out of fear of losing our direction—to‘cleanse our eyes’ in order to see moreclearly. The occasion presented itself onthe third day of the show when we wereinvited to discover the 2011 collection ofPatek Philippe.I might as well admit it up front. My eyeswere wide open during Patek Philippe’sdemonstration that the family enterprise isin a class by itself, above the other prestigebrands—all the others, we are tempted tosay, at the risk of offending a few others. Inthis collection, there is true watchmaking, alevel of care, attention to detail, and ‘naturalclass’ that make the brand a unique phenom-enon. And yes, the watches are quite expen-sive. But, they are also quite beautiful.In his way, Thierry Stern’s ‘first full term’—the protective shadow of his father Philippeis gradually fading—shows that the batonwas passed from one generation to the nextin a perfect way. The brand presented itsReference 5208P—a chronograph, minuterepeater, and perpetual calendar with win-dow displays—showcasing aesthetic claritywhile remaining restrained, which leavesnothing to predict its complexity (on thissubject, see Europa Star 2/11 Special

With 627 watch brands at BaselWorld, it is obviously impossible to cover all of them. To those we missed,please excuse us. Among them, we think especially about the many independent brands, about this very im-portant—and even vital—segment, about their work in high quality watchmaking, but with affordable prices.Their role is pivotal in the global scheme of timekeeping. And, where would the Swatch Group be withoutTissot, not only for its economic role but also for its educational role, or we might say, for its ‘entry point’ func-tion? In the same way, in the realm of Swiss watchmaking, these brands bring richness to the sector, even ifthey might occupy a lesser important space in terms of media coverage since they are less ‘mechanically’amazing and more ‘mainstream’ in appearance, to borrow a term from the same media. We also think of the many brands that Europa Star regularly includes in its columns, and of which we will soonspeak again, over the course of our next few issues. Rather than hurrying to say everything all at once, stimulatedby a global event such as BaselWorld and incited by the prevailing immediacy of the media, we nonetheless pre-fer to take the time necessary to better analyze and understand this industry and this art in the measure of time.

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Ref. 5216R by Patek Philippe

BASELWORLD 2011IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT WATCH

CYCLONE TOURBILLON by Jacob & Co

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BaselWorld). Among other timepieces, PatekPhilippe also presented a ChronographPerpetual Calendar (Ref. 5270G), a new ver-sion of the Ref. 521 6R, a Minute Repeater,Tourbillon (hidden as always), a PerpetualCalendar with retrograde date and lunarphases, an ultra-flat Perpetual Calendar witha black lacquered dial and bezel beautifullydecorated with the Clou de Paris pattern(Ref 5139 G), and a Perpetual Calendarwith a retrograde display in a Calatrava stylecase (Ref. 5496 P). Added to these was alovely and simple automatic Ladies’ FirstRepetition Minutes (Ref. 7000 R), which is inno way a mere reduction of a masculinemodel (on this subject, see the article in thisissue by Sophie Furley). In the same collec-tion, the brand introduced a single push-piece Ladies’ First Flyback Chronograph (Ref.7059 R). We also cannot forget the wholenew series of Calatrava models with theirabsolute styling. Along with the other journalists present,we were all nearly speechless before suchexamples of fine timekeeping. In a fewwords, it was ‘grand class’. Styles comeand go, trends rise and fall. None of thisseems to matter to Patek Philippe. Thecompany is content to follow its own road,without false pride but with a clear aware-ness of its own exceptional nature.

King RolexAlone with Patek Philippe, but in anentirely different style, Rolex also simplyfollows its own path without deviation. Asit does each year, the brand brought a fewsmall changes to its anthological models.It is a unique strategy, one that unceasinglyimproves its offer, touch after touch, in smallsteps. So, this year, the accent was placedon two axes: the ‘professional’ watchesand the feminine timepieces.On the ‘professional’ level, Rolex pre-sented: a new version of ‘Everose Rolesor’(exclusive combination of 904L steel androse gold, for the first time used in theOyster collection) of its 44-mm Yacht-Master II, launched initially in 2007, withits system of mechanical memory (10 min)programmable by the bezel and equippedwith a 4160 movement with a Parachromebalance spring. There was also a new andlarger 42-mm version of its famous ExplorerII, launched 40 years ago, which again hasits characteristic orange hand and isequipped with the latest generation ofmovements, the calibre 3187, a Parachromebalance spring, and Paraflex shockabsorbers; and even a new version of itslegendary 1963 Cosmograph Daytona,equipped with a new bezel made from asingle block of black Cerachrom ceramic

mounted on an Everose gold case, offeredwith a chocolate or ivory dial. These are all Rolex and nothing but Rolexin the quality sense of the term. It is a‘world unto itself’, or perhaps even a tran-quil and autonomous ‘continent’ in themidst of a global watch planet in turmoil.

A revealing ‘micro-trend’Now, let’s enter the arena and move a bitcloser to the activity as we try to ascer-tain—when looking at the most powerfuland the more modest brands, while observ-ing the independent designers and the‘watch dealers’—the most important fea-tures of this year’s show. In this great mix-ture of the most diverse and even contradic-tory trends, a few general movements and afew precursory signs emerge, which areabove and beyond the simple (relative)backsurge of gratuitous extravagance. We can therefore distinguish a ‘micro-trend’, limited obviously to a few watches,but nonetheless interesting in that it tellsus about our ‘civilizational’ relationship tothe measure of time, even to the ‘decre-ment…’ This ‘trend’ is best—and mostpoetically—represented by the alreadyfamous watch by Hermès called Le TempsSuspendu (see our editorial in this issue).This timekeeper allows its wearer to ‘sus-pend’ the display of time and then to returnto it when he wants. It was not born by merechance at Hermès. As Luc Perramond, CEO

of Montres Hermès explains, “this nearlyphilosophical—or at least poetic—expres-sion of the suspension of time is particu-larly appropriate for Hermès, whose ownwatch territory is that of ‘imaginary time’. Astrategic timepiece in the expression ofthis territory, Le Temps Suspendu—whosemechanism is the brain child of Jean-MarcWiederrecht, manager of the creative watch‘laboratory’ Agenhor in Geneva—is a watchborn out of an affirmation: ‘time is a friend;time is a resource; Hermès has all the time.’” (This affirmation takes on even more signifi-cance in the context of the battle currentlybeing waged by Hermès against LVMH.) AtBaselWorld this year, however, this time-piece was not the only one of its kind.Hublot also presented a watch indicating‘your time according to your choice’—theMP 02 Key of Time by Hublot (invented byMathias Butet, ex-BNB). This timekeeperproposes to either accelerate time by fourtimes or to slow it down by one-quarter, orof course to let it run correctly. But wherethe solution proposed by Hermès is per-fectly simple in close correlation with thetargeted goal (to truly suspend the meas-ure of time that passes in favour of the sub-jective perception), Hublot’s Key of Timehas the appearance of a highly complexand ultra-contemporary mechanical machinein black DLC, created more for its per-formance than for meditation. In addition,because it is equipped with a flying tourbil-lon vertically positioned to tick off the sec-onds on the edge of the watch, the sec-onds follow their route regardless of thespeed (accelerated or slowed) chosen bythe wearer. Thus, it contradicts itself, wemight say, and does not really allow thewearer to ‘forget’ the time. (...)

Continued online onwww.europastar.com:

In the fast lane • The ‘concepts’ thatare taking off • Orthodoxies •

Speake-Marin on the launching pad• The Tourbillons of Cecil Purnell •

The dignity of Seiko • Swatch PlazaCeramic wars • Grand manoeuvres


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LE TEMPS SUSPENDU by Hermès

44-MM YACHT-MASTER II by Rolex

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www.europastar.com is brought to you by Europa Star HBM SA, 25 route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva SwitzerlandFor full information on Europa Star click on www.europastar.com ABOUT US and CONTACT US


T he French brand Pequignet isnow realizing its goal of creat-ing a revolutionary calibre that

combines reliability, torque, precision,symmetry, space, elegance and the inte-gration of complications directly into theoriginal main plate—the Calibre Royal.Every watchmaker will tell you the samething —to design and create a calibre thatis produced only in a few hundred pieces isone thing, but to produce it on an indus-trial scale is quite another. Pequignet’saccomplishment is so important because,in terms of innovative calibres, we haveseen many over the last few years, butinnovative calibres that could be pro-duced on an industrial scale are few andfar between. For Pequignet to achieve its goal requiredthe elaboration of 270 industrial plans, thecreation of 120 stamps for just the gears,

the machining of all the parts—some 300realized according to Pequignet’s originalplans out of a total of 302, with the othertwo being the palettes wheel and thepalettes made by Nivarox, of the SwatchGroup. This has certainly been a colossaleffort carried out by a small team under the

direction of Didier Leibundgut, who tookover the French brand in 2004 with the firmintention of creating his “dream calibre”, ashe likes to say, from scratch.

Full article on www.europastar.com

Mention Japanese watchmaking andmost people immediately think ofquartz or high-tech electronic watches,but for over 60 years, Orient WatchCo. Ltd has been producing high qual-ity mechanical movements for watchlovers the world over.

A rare specialtyOrient Watch specialises in mechanicalmovements and the company takes greatpride in the fact that all its calibres aredeveloped and produced wholly in-houseat the company’s facility in Japan. “OrientWatch maintains an unusual presence byadhering to its unique position, in whichorthodox mechanical watches are its flag-ship products,” explains Mr. Jiro Miyagawa,Orient Watch’s Director of Global BusinessHeadquarters. The company has developed

a myriad of movements and complicationsover the years that include power reserveindications, world time calibres, retrogradedisplays and GMT modules – all in attrac-tively designed timepieces that have cap-tured the hearts of watch lovers in over 70countries worldwide.

Reliability, endurance and quality‘Quality’ and ‘reliability’ are synonymouswith Japanese technology which has anexcellent reputation worldwide. To enhancethis favourable image, Orient Watch hasbeen collaborating with Subaru TechnicaInternational (STI) in the 24 HoursNürburgring race – a dynamic partnershipthat accentuates the endurance and relia-bility of Orient Watch’s timepieces in themost testing conditions. The brand releases

commemorative, limited edition collectionsto celebrate these adventures under theapt name of ‘Japanese Engines’.

Simplicity and beautyJapan doesn’t only have a global reputa-tion for precision technology, it is alsorenowned for its culture, and in particularits love of purity and beauty. Japanesecooking, art, architecture, gardens, ikebanaand more all demonstrate the Japanesepeople’s love of beauty and simplicity.Orient movements are also conceived withthis same philosophy as the company’smovement constructors concentrate onachieving great accuracy and have stream-lined their calibres by reducing the numberof parts.

Special Spotlight on www.europastar.com

Orient Watch – The fusion of precision and beauty

CALIBRE ROYAL by PEQUIGNETTechnical specifications Six world patents

Escapement: 21,600 vibrations per hour: oildurability, adhesion of lubricants, longer periodsbetween after-sales service. Crossover bridge: sta-bility, resistance to shocks.Compensating screws:precision and stability in adjustments.Large four-arm high-inertia balance: regularity and resistanceto shocks. Stud holder clamp.

Isochronism: Calculated 100-hour power reserve,set to 88 hours, dial display with 72-hour guar-anteed isochronism. After 72 hours of operation,220° amplitude in vertical position, in other words,the maximum desirable.

Particularities: Automatic winding, manual wind-ing, power reserve indicator with inventions thatavoid friction and random functioning of systemswith a classic spring: greater reliability with a lessernumber of components.

Bearing with seven large balls designed by Pequignet.Incabloc anti-shock system: two repositioning conesfor better resistance in case of shocks. Rolled mobilepivots: durability, longevity, mirror effect.

The very innovative Calibre Royal by Pequignet is here!

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In English, Spanish, Chinese, Russian and French5 Websites, 5 iPad Apps, 5 Continents – for the World’s Watch & Jewellery Markets

Stay tuned by clicking on the Europa Star global WorldWatchWeb network - any time!

www.europastar.com www.watches-for-china.com www.horalatina.com / www.europastar.eswww.europastarwatch.ruwww.CIJintl.com (fine jewellery)

ALL EUROPA STAR IPAD VERSIONS ARE UNIQUE SITE APPLICATIONS WHICH ALLOW:

• An incomparable content of over 10,000 articles available on watches, watch brands, manufacturing, markets, retailers, watch tech and archives back to the year 2000.

• Direct and free access by just typing Europa Star URLs on your iPad (no need to download from App Store).

• Constant and up-to-date information with daily postings in News, Watch Models, Industry Features, Highlights and Specials.

• Easy navigation with scroll down and left to right flip. • Full page advertisements from the leading international watch brands in all sections. • Special advertisers’ files with their articles quotes and history. • A complete Brand Index with brand links, head office information and refined Search tool by category and publication years.

• Easy shift button from one application to the other and to preferred language. • The Europa Star Russian version additionally provides a new Boutique Index - the first tool in the industry to search brands and their boutiques throughout the Russian speaking markets.

• Designed to cover all of the world’s major geographical areas, the Europa Star iPad site applications are available wherever you are located and in the language of your choice.

EUROPA STAR, THE WORLDWATCHWEB ON YOUR IPAD!

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Over all five continents, Europa Star has now expanded its multi-channel media network tobecome the most reliable international source of direct information for global watch brandsand the world of fine jewellery.Stay tuned, for all the information, direct from the source, with Europa Star in Print, on the Weband on your iPad.

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Europa Star Watch Aficionado USA 3.11

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Transcript of Europa Star Watch Aficionado USA 3.11