Essential Guide to Chocolate 3

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Packed with simple and advanced chocolate techniques and recipes

2 | restaurant | essential guide to chocolate 3

3 dear chefthe uK chocolate academy centre’s Beverley dunkley and Julie sharp introduce the guide and highlight how to get in touch with callebaut

4-5 focus on roastingfood chemistry at its very finest: an insight into one of the most important aspects of the chocolate-making process

6-8 the interview: graham hornigoldthe executive head pastry chef at hakkasan group on managing a large international team, development and his latest chocolate creations

9 core valuesa look at callebaut’s hugely popular core range of

chocolate, with detailed flavoured matching notes and suggested dishes

10 here’s one i made earlier: five advanced techniquesa selection of clever chocolate ideas that are guaranteed to wow diners and are much simpler than they look

12 immaculate confectionfour petits fours recipes to freshen up your after

dinner offering including white chocolate fudge and dark chocolate and raspberry financiers

15 seven things you (proBaBly) didn’t Know aBout chocolatechocolate can be matched with many savoury foods including cauliflower and venison and can also be used to make money on the futures market and to revitalise the skin

Contents

© william reed Business media ltd 2013 all rights reserved. no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electrical, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher.

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essential guide to chocolate 3 | restaurant | 3

Dear chef,

It’s our great pleasure to welcome you to the wonderful world of chocolate and the much-awaited third edition of the Callebaut Essential Guide to Chocolate. We hope you enjoyed the previous two guides and that this edition will also prove to be a fantastic source of knowledge and inspiration to you. This guide is packed full of useful information, including a look at how chocolate is produced, insights into the industry and current trends and, of course, spectacular recipes and techniques to keep your dessert offering fresh. We also have a handy run-down of our core product range with tasting notes and flavour-matching ideas.

Callebaut is proud to be the preferred chocolate of chefs and we have just one objective – to produce chocolate of such superior quality and workability that it supports you in your efforts to create brilliant products that will inspire and delight your customers. We love hearing from you and all about your chocolate creations, so please do not hesitate to get in touch with us using any of the channels listed to the right.

Happy reading!

Beverley dunkley and Julie sharp UK Chocolate Academy Centre, Banbury, Oxfordshire

@Callebaut_ENG

Callebaut Official

www.callebaut.com

WWW

pEp tOrquE: juliE sharp aNd bEvErlEy duNklEy


Focus on roasting: An essential step that demands great care and precisioncallebaut ferments and roasts top-quality beans in their shells to create and preserve the best flavour and aroma possible

roasting is a very delicate process. It is one of the most important steps in developing chocolate flavour as it builds on the flavour precursors formed during fermentation and drying. It is food chemistry at its finest: the aroma of roasted cocoa is the result of a combination of different components. Some result from fermentation, but are not influenced by roasting,

some result from fermentation and are boosted by roasting, and some new components are developed exclusively during roasting.

Callebaut is one of the few chocolate makers in the world that still roast the beans themselves. Its chocolate craftsmen also pride themselves on roasting entire beans in their shells instead of just the cocoa nibs. Roasting beans whole preserves even the most delicate flavours and aromas, and also allows for more variety in the degree of roast and the development of flavour. For example, if the cocoa bean is roasted at a low

temperature, its inherent fruitiness will be preserved and a red-fruit quality in the chocolate flavour will become apparent. If the beans are treated to a darker roast using higher temperatures, nuttier flavours will develop and the beans will become less acidic.

Cocoa roasting conditions vary according to the type of roaster and requirements of the finished product. Variables such as temperature, the temperature curve (how long the temperature remains at a particular point), the degree of roast, and the equipment used are just some of the factors that Callebaut carefully controls. Each of these factors has a significant impact on the

callebaut’s master roasters treat the raw beans with extreme care to aid full development of flavour

artisan approach: callebaut still roasts beans whole


flavour of the finished product. In addition, particular attention needs to be paid to the size of the beans, their plumpness, moisture content, variety and their unique flavours. All of these factors need to be considered in order to obtain optimal flavours.

Callebaut’s master roasters treat the raw beans with extreme care to ensure the full development of flavour. The beans are gently roasted using currents of heated air. To prevent fat inside the cocoa nibs from migrating to the shells and

thereby being lost, the cocoa is not subjected to any mechanical action by a drum or any other agitating components.

The beans must be pulled from the roaster just before the optimal flavour is reached – timing is everything. If the beans are left in longer, they will be over-roasted because they keep roasting after being removed. It takes a high level of skill to determine the perfect moment to stop the process and ensure the beans will be at their peak of flavour once they have cooled.

full flavour capture: roasting develops the qualities of the beans


The Interview

Graham Hornigoldthe executive head pastry chef for the hakkasan group has one of the most prestigious (and intensive) roles in the dessert world

how many restaurants do you look after? I have five restaurants in the UK and a production and development kitchen in London, five restaurants in the US, five restaurants in the UAE, five restaurants in India and one coming up in Shanghai. They certainly keep me busy, but it’s obviously not a hands-on cooking role these days.

I taste new dishes and give advice on menu development and implement the training, which is a hugely important aspect of the role.

how on earth do you manage all that? I’m London-based but I do travel to our overseas restaurants a lot, particularly for openings and to organise the kitchens. On a typical day I work out of the office in Wardour Street [Soho] and speak to the overseas guys on the phone. It works out well

because the team in the US starts as we finish service so we catch up then. Since I started two years ago we’ve rebuilt the infrastructure of the London restaurants and opened a number of new restaurants in the UK and aboard.

how does the uk operation work now? All the mise en place for the restaurants and Yauatcha’s cake offering gets made in our new pastry production kitchen, which is located on Broadgate Circus [in the City] in the same building as our HKK restaurant. My guys start at 6.30am in the production kitchen because they need to push to get all the prep ready for the refrigerated van that arrives at about 9.30am.

i try to get my senior guys to think of themselves as managers rather than just cooks

Hakkasan Hit: CHerry and CHoColate bar


Yauatcha must be one of the best aspects of the job for a pastrY chef...Yes absolutely. I actually applied for a job at Yauatcha when it was still under Alan Yau [the restaurateur who originally founded the Soho restaurant] but I didn’t get it! It’s good to have somewhere that’s more like a pâtisserie. At the end of the day it benefits everyone because we can give our pastry chefs a more rounded experience.

is it easY to find good pastrY chefs? No. There’s a marked skills shortage. Since starting here my key focus has been getting everybody up

to the same level and we’re in the process of introducing a tightly structured training regime for all staff. I try to get my senior guys to think of themselves as managers rather than just cooks and understand the business. We also encourage our chefs to do competitions.

What about recipe developments? I encourage my staff to be creative and empower them to push themselves. They come up with a selection of dishes and I come and taste them and give them feedback, show them new techniques and generally tweak things. It’s

perfect specimens: Yauatcha’s macaroons


very much a mentoring process.

do you find it easy to come up with new chocolate dishes? Yes. It’s an extremely interesting and adaptable ingredient. It’s just down to your imagination. We don’t buy much in on that side so our pastry chefs get a rounded experience and understand the ingredient: we make our own pralines, nut pastes, glazes and sauces.

what are your most successful chocolate creations at the restaurants? Well our chocolate and raspberry delice with raspberry sauce has just won an award. It comprises a chocolate and hazelnut brownie, chocolate raspberry mousse with 60% Grenade

from Callebaut [part of the Single Origin range], raspberry jelly insert, Callebaut chocolate and Callebaut Crispearls. It’s shaped to resemble a rose before being sprayed with coloured cocoa butter. We sell between 500 and 1,000 a week so they represent a huge amount of work for the team.

Then we have our cherry and chocolate bar which is a very popular plated dessert at Hakkasan. It’s constructed with sablé breton, milk and dark chocolate ganache, cherry pate de fruits, cherry pieces and chocolate glazed and lustred and served with cherry sorbet.

our pastry chefs get a rounded experience: we make our own pralines, pastes, glazes and sauces

AwArd winner: ChoColAte And rAspberry deliCe


Core values

introducing... the chocolizercallebaut is soon to launch a unique webtool to help chefs and chocolatiers find the right chocolate for their creations. users can manipulate bars representing the intensity of the key chocolate taste attributes – including ‘fruity’, ‘roasted’ and ‘cocoa taste’ – to highlight the perfect chocolate for their specification. the system also incorporates a sophisticated flavour-pairing function: the chef simply scrolls through a wide range of ingredients and clicks to reveal the most complimentary callebaut chocolate. www.callebaut.com

callebaut’s core range of four high-quality chocolates have become a global reference – often imitated, but never equalled

811NV

Belgian Dark Chocolate■ Taste profiles: smooth and well-balanced chocolate with subtle vanilla notes■ Minimum cocoa: 53% ■ Origin of beans: mainly West african cocoa beans, mostly forastero variety■ Pairing tips: vanilla, port, grenadine, olive oil, mint■ Dish ideas: mint chocolate truffles

823NV

Belgian Milk Chocolate■ Taste profile: Perfect marriage of cocoa, milk and caramel■ Minimum cocoa: 33%■ Origin of beans: mainly West african cocoa beans, mostly forastero variety■ Pairing tips: cinnamon, vanilla, mango, cognac■ Dish ideas: chocolate and cognac cake

W2NV

Belgian White Chocolate■ Taste profile: balanced milky and creamy taste with subtle vanilla note■ Minimum cocoa: 28% ■ Origin of beans: mainly West african cocoa beans, mostly forastero variety■ Pairing tips: mango, sesame oil, goat’s cheese, mint■ Dish ideas: White chocolate and sesame seed tuille

70-30-38NV

Belgian 70% Dark Chocolate■ Taste profile: extra bitter dark chocolate with a great boost of roasted cocoa■ Minimum cocoa: 70% ■ Origin of beans: mainly West african cocoa beans, mostly forastero variety■ Pairing tips: earl grey, bilberry, balsamic, lime, chardonnay, salt■ Dish ideas: chocolate fondant with lime syrup


Here’s one I made earlier... Five advanced chocolate techniques that are much simpler than they look and 100% guaranteed to wow your customers

1. White chocolate crumble Method 1. Pour some melted white chocolate on silicon paper and place into an oven at 160°C

2. Cook for five minutes before mixing with a palette knife.

Return to the oven and cook until golden brown 3. Remove from the oven

and allow to cool 4. Break up into

small piece and use as a

garnish on desserts

3. Chocolate ‘capelli d’angelo’

2. Microwave temperingSimply melting solid chocolate for coatings and decorations will produce a dull-looking result and poor texture. Correct tempering (also known as pre-crystallisation) retains gloss and texture and is simple to do in the microwave. Pour chocolate callets into a plastic bowl and melt at 800–1000 watts. Take the callets out of the microwave every 15 to 20 seconds and stir well – this stops scorching. Repeat until the chocolate has almost completely melted with some small pieces of callet still visible. Remove from the microwave and stir well, until all the pieces of callet have disappeared and a slightly thickened even liquid is achieved.

Ever wondered how chocolatiers and pastry chefs produce and manipulate delicate strands of chocolate? It’s much simpler than they’d have you believe: pipe thin lines of pre-crystallised dark

chocolate on to a pre-frozen marble slab. Immediately pick up the chocolate and curl into whatever shape is desired, for example a nest, sphere or basket.


callebaut tV is back: discoVer great chocolate stories onlineWhat is it that makes the world go crazy for belgian chocolates? and what special skills do belgian craftsmen have? callebaut tV chefs alexandre bourdeaux and Patrick aubrion – who are technical advisors from the callebaut belgian chocolate academy – travel belgium in search of great chocolate stories. they bring you the adventures of three belgian

chocolatiers and three belgian classics revisited. in addition, callebaut tV is full of video tutorials and troubleshooting on working with chocolate and the growing and

harvesting of cocoa – you will find videos on everything from tempering chocolate, through to pralines and perfect glazing. www.callebaut.com/uken/callebauttv

5. Bottle topsMethod 1. Dip the top of a bottle top (for example a water bottle lid) into tempered chocolate2. Press the bottle on the acetate and lift upwards to create a pattern 3. Leave to dry for 1 hour in a cool room before removing from sheeting4. The discs can then be dusted with creative powder using a small paint brush to enhance colour and shine

4. Butterfly decorationsFlaunt your new tempering skills with this intricate-looking but surprisingly straightforward garnish. These butterflies are a great addition to a dessert, but the technique can be used to make other items including flowers and numbers and names for birthday cakes and desserts.

Method1. Cover a simple line drawing of a butterfly with a clear plastic acetate sheet2. Pipe around the butterfly drawing with tempered Callebaut Dark Chocolate 811NV3. Allow to set at 12°C for at least 20 minutes4. Pipe a butterfly body on acetate set in a piece of curved tubing and place a wing on each side5. Place Callebaut White Crispearls along the centre


Immaculate confection

Gingerbread spiced piped chocolate trufflesGive customers a decadent treat at the end of the meal with these deceptively simple chocolates

GinGerbread spiced GanacheinGredients50g whipping cream0.5g ground ginger0.5g ground cinnamon1 clove200g Callebaut 823NV milk chocolate75g Callebaut 811NV dark chocolate100g ready-made fondant125g unsalted butter method1. Bring the cream and spices to the boil, remove the clove 2. Stir in the chocolate to create a smooth ganache 3. Soften the butter and fondant in a mixer with a

flat beater attachment4. While stirring, add the prepared ganache and continue to aerate for a further minute or so

assemblinG the truffles (Ganache makes around 50)inGredients1 quantity gingerbread spiced ganachePre-decorated chocolate discsmethod1. Using a small star nozzle, pipe onto prepared chocolate discs formed on a pre-printed transfer sheet using a silicone stencil2. Place another chocolate disc on the top of the piped ganache and press down lightly

Makes

50

Raise youR afteR-dinneR game with this easy-to-do yet elegant fouRsome of divine petits fouRs


Chocolate and raspberry financier

IngredIents125g ground almonds125g beurre noisette125g icing sugar1.5 eggs15g plain flour10g cocoa powder25g cornflour25g whipping cream40g Callebaut 811NV dark chocolate, melted

ClassIC preparatIon that Can also be used as a base for larger sweets

40g raspberry jam diluted with a little water and strained 12 raspberriesMethod1. Mix the beurre noisette, almonds and sugar2. Add the eggs, flours and cocoa powder3. Stir in the melted chocolate and cream4. Pipe into a Flexipan mould and insert a fresh raspberry. Bake at 170°C for around 10 minutes5. Glaze with the strained raspberry jam

Makes

12


Praline milk truffle

White chocolate fudgeFoolprooF recipe that’s easy to portion and stores well

ingredients350g caster sugar125g glucose185g double cream185g Callebaut W2NV white chocolate, plus extra

a decadent hit oF hazelnut liFted by the easy-going charm oF top-notch milk chocolate

ingredients250g Callebaut pure roasted hazelnut paste75g cocoa butter125g Callebaut 823NV milk chocolate plus extra for decoration 50 Callebaut milk truffle shellsmethod1. Melt the milk chocolate and cocoa butter to 45°C2. Stir in the hazelnut paste3. Temper to 25°C4. Pipe into Callebaut milk truffle shells and set over night 5. The next day, pipe a chocolate seal6. To finish the truffles, coat in tempered milk chocolate and – for a creative look – roll over a cooling rack to obtain a special textured effect

alternative presentation1. After step 5 secure a lollipop stick in the middle of the truffle sphere with some precrystallised chocolate2. Prepare pattern chocolate discs by spreading precrystallised chocolate on top of a sheet of pattern transfer, leave to set3. Once set, cut rounds with a small cutter 4. Using the stick, dip the individual truffle lollipops in the precrystallised chocolate 5. Secure a disc of the pattern chocolate on top of each lollipop and allow to set

Makes

50

Rec

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white chocolate for decoration 30g unsalted butter, softened30g freeze-dried raspberries, chopped method1. Melt the chocolate2. Bring the sugar, glucose and cream to the boil3. Cook to 118°C 4. Stir in the white chocolate, butter and freeze-dried raspberries 5. Pour mixture into a four-sided tray lined with silicone paper

6. Allow to cool7. Cover with tempered Callebaut W2NV white chocolate and cut into desired shape

Makes

50


Seven things you (probably) didn’t know you could do with chocolateFrom Face packs and athletics to Futures trading and hotel rooms, chocolate is a remarkably adaptable ingredient

1 trade FuturesCocoa beans might not count as currency anymore (as they did in ancient South America) but they can still be traded. It’s a risky business – cocoa prices are volatile and influenced by a wide range of factors including the weather and political instability in cocoa-producing countries – but beans can be either physically bought and sold on the spot market or traded on the futures market.

2 put it in a wider range oF savoury FoodMost cooks know chocolate is a good addition to chilli con carne, but it works in all manner of pre-pudding dishes. Try white chocolate with cauliflower and dark chocolate in dishes that contain venison, bacon, black pudding or thyme.

3 have a chocolate FacialChocolate and beauty regimes are usually uncomfortable bedfellows but chocolate is now regularly used for facials. Apparently it increases collagen production and delays the appearance of wrinkles. Who knew?

4 make a hotel roomCallebaut and Westminster Kingsway College recently created a fully-edible chocolate hotel room at The Cavendish London. It took 100kg of Callebaut chocolate to fashion everything from slippers to a vase of flowers.

5 save the rainForestNo rainforest, no chocolate. All cocoa grows within a narrow band around the equator and needs two meters of rain a year and specific temperatures that are only found in the rainforest. Purchasing Callebaut chocolate covered by the Growing Great Chocolate programme helps save the rainforest and future supplies of chocolate. 6 make the world’s simplest dessert Pre-eminent French food scientist Hervé This makes a flawless chocolate mousse out of just chocolate and water by melting chocolate and water together, cooling it over ice and whisking until it becomes a fluffy mousse.

7 put in a strong athletic perFormanceA study in the US found cyclists who drank chocolate milk after an intense workout experienced less fatigue than cyclists who drank sports energy drinks. Take that, Lucozade.

Seeing iS believing: the chocolate hotel room

let’S Face it: chocolate’S good For the Skin

Essential Guide to Chocolate 3

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