Espresso why how

ESPRESSO: WHY YOU HATE IT AND HOW TO FIX IT

BY

Ben KaminskyUS Cup Tasting Champion 2009, ’10, ’11Source, Roast, Brew, Design Consulting

Saturday, November 9, 13

Ben Kaminsky

BEFORE WE MOVE ON...


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“QUALITY IS NOT SUBJECTIVE”


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-Ben Kaminsky

“QUALITY IS NOT SUBJECTIVE”


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WHAT IS SPECIALTY COFFEE?


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“Specialty coffee can consistently exist through the dedication of the people who have made it their life's work to continually make quality their highest priority.”


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“Specialty coffee can consistently exist through the dedication of the people who have made it their life's work to continually make quality their highest priority.”

Businesses that focus primarily on the flavor of coffee.


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“Whether green bean, roasted bean or prepared beverage and by the quality of life that coffee can deliver to all of those involved in its cultivation, preparation and degustation. A

coffee that delivers satisfaction on all counts and adds value to the lives and livelihoods of all involved is truly a specialty coffee.” - Ric Rhinehart


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In essence, the concept was quite simple: special geographic microclimates produce beans with unique flavor profiles, which she referred to as 'specialty coffees.' -Don Holly

paraphrasing Erna Knutsen


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Extracted coffee of any concentration, where by virtue of its flavor alone, one could derive some sense of that coffee’s high quality of picking, country of

origin, variety, terroir and/or processing.



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WHAT DO WE KNOW?


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WHAT DO WE KNOW?...actually.


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ESPRESSO: YOUR MOST SOLD PRODUCT


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ESPRESSO: YOUR MOST SOLD PRODUCTAlso, probably comprised of your worst green coffees and the ones you’re least proud of...


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COFFEE SUCKS LESS THAN BEFORE...BUT STILL SUCKS. EVEN IN GOOD PLACES.


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ALL BREWERS ARE FLAWED


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Whats actually wrong with espresso?Saturday, November 9, 13

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BASICS


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WHAT IS ESPRESSO?


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WHAT IS ESPRESSO?

•Finely ground coffee brewed with high pressure hot water.

•Thats it...


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DEFINITION OF ESPRESSO BY SCAA


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•7-9g of coffee per 45ml beverage


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•Assuming fresh coffee, this equates to about 20-25g of beverage by weight


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•Assuming fresh coffee, this equates to about 20-25g of beverage by weight

•“Flow time” of 22-28 seconds, so actual brew time of 26-40 seconds.


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SUMMER 2012 EP STUDY

Does pressure profiling in espresso actually increase extraction?


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Total Dissolved SolidsSaturday, November 9, 13

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GETTING BETTER RESULTS FROM YOUR GRINDER


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•1kg minimum coffee in the Robur hopper


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•Correct headspace (proper doses = 2-3mm minimum)


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•Best results using VST 20g basket. If you don’t like the way your coffee tastes in the VST basket, is because you don’t like the way your coffee and/or roasts taste. Its not the basket...


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•200f/93c at the group


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•200f/93c at the group

•Flat 58.4mm tampers actually extract espresso higher than other tampers (i.e. curved, c-flat, etc).


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A COMMON RECIPE


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FINES


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suck, but interestingly, Mazzer isn’t so bad.

GRINDERS


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“THE LINE” VS. “3D BREWING”


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YOU CAN’T DO BETTERNor should you need to...


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Time (Z) Ext % (X)

TDS (Y)

Text


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WHY AREN’T MORE ROASTERS CALIBRATING TO AN EVEN AND FULL

EXTRACTION OF THEIR COFFEES?


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Acidity Too High

Roast Darker

Reduce extraction %(shorter shot)

Coffee is More Soluble(ext% increases)

Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty

Low extraction = sourness(percieved as acidity)

Downward Spiral of Death


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Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty



Acidity Too High

Roast Darker



Acidity Lowerbut

Tastes Roasty




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Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter

Measure it.Extract Higher, duh.

Coffee is Less Soluble(ext% decreases)

Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.

Upward Spiral of Happiness

More Sweentess,Less salty/sour


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Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.




Ben Kaminsky

Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.



Acidity Too Low

Roast Lighter



Acidity Higherbut

Tastes Salty/Sour

Balance.




Ben Kaminsky

MEASUREMENT


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FILTER GRINDERSTighter distribution = more sexy


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POINTS PROVEN BY THE EK•Essentially all espresso channels to a certain degree in most grinders

•Shots around 9%tds taste like 12%tds on a robur or comparable grinder.

•There are far too many fines in our espresso

•Serve as many different coffees as you like

•We waste far too much coffee


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COMP THIS YEAR


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THE NOT-SO-HIDDEN COST OF THE ROBUR


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•18g dose at EUR.35¢/USD.47¢/.295p per dose

•€19.5/kg or $11.96/lb or £16.4/kg

•60g flush per grind change at €1.17/$1.57/.98p

•15 grind adjustments per day including morning dial in...


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€8,368.80Cost of Goods into the Trash:

$11,299.55£7,036.14


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Opportunity Cost per Year per Robur:


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$56449.99

Opportunity Cost per Year per Robur:

€41,808.61

£35,150.92


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COMMON ISSUES IN ESPRESSO ROASTING


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BAKING VS DEVELOPMENT


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UNDERDEVELOPMENT HAS NO FIXED DEFINITION

It simply “depends”


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GET THE COFFEE IN AND OUT OF THE MACHINE AS QUICKLY AS YOU CAN TO ACHIEVE THE ROAST SOLUBILITY AND

SWEETNESS YOU REQUIRE.


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QC


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COLOR MEASUREMENTDouble your roast consistency for about $5000


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MEASURE THE EXTRACTION

IN CUPPING AND ESPRESSOS


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SOLUBILITY PAIRING


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MATCHING SOLUBILITY ACROSS YOUR ENTIRE MENU


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SIDE-BY-SIDE, MULTI-ROAST ESPRESSO TASTINGS WITH THE EK43

A total revelation in espresso QC


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CROPSTER SCORINGAids in assessing large numbers of roasts quickly


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CUSTOMIZING FORMS FOR ROAST ASSESSMENTPRESENCE OF ROAST-5

PRESENCE OF BAKEY-5

PRESENCE OF UNDER D-5

PRESENCE OF AGE-5

SWEETNESS10 x 3

QUALITY OF ACIDITY10 x 3

OVERALL/CUPPERS POINTS10

CLARITY10 x 3

RitRo + SqMi - ROAST ASSESSMENT FORM “N8000” Name:

NOTES

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NOTES

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TOTAL

NOTES

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NOTES

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NOTES

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NOTES

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NOTES

15.


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ROAST RANGERSet tight parameters for success


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RATE OF RISEHelps you identify baking in espresso


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TODAYS TASTING


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COFFEE 1


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COFFEE 2


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COFFEE 3Hunkute Espresso COD v14 - PR-0385 - Hunkute - Filter & Single Origin EspressoProbatone | Richard | End Temperature: 206.6 °C | Development time: 101.0 s | Charge Temperature: 183.1 °C | Roast Area Index: 110.348 °C | Ambient temperature: 33.578 °C | Duration: 12:12

Time Bean Te...(°C)

Environ...(°C)

Gas(%)

00:00 183.1 181.8 4.000:30 109.9 124.901:00 88.2 120.501:30 86.7 122.602:00 92.7 126.102:30 100.8 129.803:00 109.1 133.3 5.003:30 117.4 139.504:00 125.3 144.204:30 132.8 148.505:00 139.6 152.305:30 145.8 156.006:00 151.6 159.506:30 157.1 162.707:00 162.5 166.0 5.507:30 167.6 169.408:00 172.7 172.208:30 177.6 174.809:00 182.5 177.909:30 187.4 180.610:00 192.5 183.510:30 197.7 185.8 3.7511:00 202.0 185.511:30 204.2 185.912:00 205.9 186.612:12 206.6 186.6

Cupping Scores #1 #2 #3 #4 #5

Cupping Notes

Comments:01:14 - Turning Point10:31 - First CrackSaturday, November 9, 13

Ben Kaminsky

COFFEE 4Ndaroini Espresso - PR-2641 - Ndaroini - GikandaUG15 | Talor | End Temperature: 169.3 °C | Development time: 102.0 s | Charge Temperature: 145.9 °C | Roast Area Index: 94.497 | Roast Value: 53.78 Colortrack | Ambient temperature: 31.477 °C | Duration: 12:04

Time Bean Te...(°C)

Environ...(°C)

Gas(%)

00:00 145.2 230.400:30 92.8 125.801:00 88.9 124.201:30 92.3 132.402:00 96.3 139.6 25.302:30 100.8 157.903:00 105.6 166.903:30 110.2 173.404:00 114.6 179.304:30 118.7 183.605:00 122.9 188.005:30 126.8 192.506:00 130.7 195.806:30 134.7 199.707:00 138.5 203.407:30 142.3 205.9 25.208:00 146.0 209.508:30 149.7 213.209:00 153.3 216.209:30 157.1 219.310:00 161.0 221.710:30 164.6 223.3 27.311:00 167.0 215.011:30 167.9 212.512:00 169.1 212.612:04 169.2 212.6

Cupping Scores #1 #2 #3 #4 #5

Cupping Notes

Comments:00:52 - Turning Point10:22 - First CrackSaturday, November 9, 13

Ben Kaminsky

THANK YOU


Ben Kaminsky

Espresso why how

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