Environment friendly finishes cii prentation

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Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 1 DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS R.B.Chavan Dept. of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016

Transcript of Environment friendly finishes cii prentation

Page 1: Environment friendly finishes  cii prentation

Nov.15,2002 I I T Delhi 1

DEVELOPMENTS IN ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY FINISHES FOR COTTON

FABRICS AND GARMENTSR.B.Chavan

Dept. of Textile Technology,Indian Institute of Technology,Hauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016

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PRESENT CONCEPTPOLLUTERS MUST PAY

CRADLE TO GRAVE WOMB TO TOMB NOT ONLY FINAL PRODUCT BE ECO FRIENDLY RAW MATERIALS, PRODUCTION PROCESSES,

PACKAGING, ECO FRENDLY EVEN AFTER DIPOSAL

MEET EMS 14000 AND SAS 1800 STANDARDS ECO FRIENDLY PRODUCTS INDENTIFIED BY

ECO LABLES GREEN MINDED CONSUMER PREFER ECO

PRODUCTS EVEN AT HIGH COST

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COTTON DOMINATES READILY AVAILABLE AFFORDABLE PRICE HYDROPHILIC COMFORTABLE IN TROPICAL CLIMATE BEING NATURAL ECO FRIENDLY

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CONVENTIONAL COTTON CONVENTIONAL COTTON IS NOT ECO

FRIENDLY USE OF FERTILIZERS, PESTICIDES

AND VARIOUS CROPS RELATED CHEMICALS DURING COTTON CULTIVATION.

PRESENCE OF THESE CHEMICALS AS RESIDUE ON COTTON BOLLS

WASHED AWAY DURING PREPARATORY PROCESSES

WATER POLLUTION

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ECO FRIENDLY COTTON

COTTON CULTIVATED WITHOUT USING FERTILIZERS PESTICIDES AND OTHER CHEMICALS (ORGANIC FARMING)

RESIDUE OF THESE CHEMICALS REMOVED DURING FIRST TWO SEASONS OF CULTIVATION

COTTON FROM THIRD SEASON ONWARDS IS ECO FRIENDLY

INDENTIFIED BY LOGOS ORGANIC COTTON GREEN COTTON NATURAL COTTON

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NATURALLY COLOURED COTTON

CULTIVATION SINCE ANCIENT TIME PISTA GREEN, BROWN ARE POPULAR

COLOURS NOT POPULAR ON COMMERCIAL SCALE LOW STAPLE LENGTH INFERIOR STRENGTH POOR SPINABILITY REVIVAL OF NATURALLY COLOUR COTTON

CULTIVATION NO CHEMICAL PROCESSING REQUIRED ELIMINATE POLLUTION CAUSED DURING

CHEMICAL PROCESSING

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ECO FRIENDLY FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

FINISHING TEATMENTS HELP TO

MAKE CONSUMER SALEABLE

PRODUCT

VALUE ADDITION

IMPART DESIRABLE PROPERTIES

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IMPORTANT FINISHES FOR COTTON EASY CARE/DURABLE PRESS/WRINKLE

FREE FINISHING SOFTENING ENZYME/BIO FINISHING WATER PROOF BREATHABLE FINISHING SOIL RELEASE AND STAIN RELEASE

FINISHES ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHES UV PROTECTION EMERGING FINISHES

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EASY CARE/WRINKLE FREE FINISHING

CREASING/WRINKLE FORMATION DURING USE AND ON WASHING OF COTTON GARMENTS

AFTER WASH MAINTENANCE EXPENSIVE

TREATMENT WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS RESIN FINSHING IMPART CREASE RESISTANT PROPERTY LOSS IN STRENGTH

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PROCESS ROUTE

FABRIC FINISHING PRE CURE POST CURE

GARMENT FINSIHING DIP OR TUMBLE PROCESSES

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CHEMICALS USEDCROSS LINKING AGENTLOW FORMALDEHYDE DMDHEUEXTRNAL OR BUILT IN CATALYST SYSTEM AND BUFFER

CATALYST MOST COMMON MgCl2 , CITRIC ACID

WETTING AGENT HIGH DENSITY PE EMULSION IMPART HAND IMPROVE TEAR STRENGTH, ABRASION RESISTANCE

AMINO OR REACTIVE SILICONE IMPART SOFT HAND IMPROVE WRINKLE RECOVERY

SILICONE ELASTOMER IMPART SPRINGINESS IMPROVE STRENGTH

ACRYLATES IMPROVE SOIL RELEASE

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TYPICAL APPLICATION RECIPE

CROSS LINKING AGENT 40-120 g/l

MgCl2 10-25 g/l

CITRIC ACID 0.3 g/l

SOFTENER (COMBINATION) 40 g/l

WETTING AGENT 1 g/l

pH 4-4.5

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QUALITY CONTROL

PHYSICAL TESTS DRY AND WET CRA

SMOOTH APPEARANCE RATING

%RESIN ADD-ON

TENSILE STRENGTH

ABRASION RESISTANCE

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

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CHEMICAL TEST

Cuen TEST (1N CUPRIETHYLENE DIAMINE

HYDROXIDE)

PULL FIBRES FROM YARN OF THE FINISHED

GARMENT (FROM THE BACKSIDE)

·     PUT ON MICROSCOPIC SLIDE

·     PUT 1- 2 DROPS OF Cuen SOLUTION

      PUT COVER SLIDE

·    OBSERVE AFTER 15 min UNDER MICROSCOPE

·    RATING 3- 4 IS ACEPTABLE

·  RATING < 3 FAILS, LOW CROSSLINKS

RATING > 4 FAILS, HEAVY STRENGTH LOSS

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SWELLING RATING MEANING

NONE 5 FULLYCROSS LINKED

SLIGHT OR NONE 4 GOOD CROSS LINKED

MODERATE 3 MODERATE CROSS LINKED

MODERATE TO 2 PRTIALLY CROSS HEAVY LINKED

HEAVY, RAPID 1 LOW CROSS LINKED

RAPID AND 0 NO CROSS LINKED DISSOLVES

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ECO FRIENDLY CROSS LINKING AGENTS MOST POPULAR CROSS LINKING AGENTS LOW FORMALDEHYDE (DMDHEU) OR ETHERIFIED

(DMeDHEU) EFFICIENT AND COST EFFECTIVE RELEASE OF FORMALDEHYDE DURING DRYING AND CURING, GARMENT STORAGE AND USE WORLD WIDE CONCERN BECAUSE OF IMPACT ON HUMAN HEALTH ENVIRONMENT KNOWN TO BE CARCINOGENIC AND

DERMATITIS EFFECTS ACCEPTABLE FORMALDEHYDE LEVEL 20 ppm

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POLYCARBOXYLIC ACIDS (PCAs)  WELCH IN 1998 REPORTED THE USE

OF BTCA FOR CROSS LINKING OF

COTTON

CATALYST SODIUM HYPOPHOSPHITE

GOOD CRA

GOOD STRENGTH RETENTION

DURABLE TO WASHING

EXCEEDINGLY HIGH COST PREVENTED

COMMERCIALIZATION 

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OTHER CARBOXYLIC ACIDS

CITRIC ACID

MALEIC ACID

SUCCINIC ACID

ORDER OF DURABILITY -

  BTCA>CA>MALEIC ACID>SUCCINIC ACID

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DEMERITS OF PCA FINISH PHOSPHATE CATALYSTS NON ECO FRIENDLY

   MOST EFFECTIVE IS SODIUM HYPO PHOSPHITE

    EXPENSIVE

    REDUCING AGENT

    AFFECT SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

CONSUME LARGE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN FROM WATER

  INFLUENCE AQUATIC LIFE

RECENT ATTEMPTS TO USE TRI SODIUM CITRATE OR COMBINATION OF SODIUM OXALATE AND SODIUM FORMATE

SAFE TO SULPHUR AND REACTIVE DYES

SAFE TO AQUATIC LIFE

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SUMMARY OF PCA FINISH HIGH COST

NON ENVIRONMENT FRIENDLY CATALYST

YELLOWING

THESE PROBLEMS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION

SOME HAVE BEEN SATISFACTORILY SOLVED

IN NEAR FUTURE PCA WOULD REPLACE CONVENTIONAL

DMDHEU BASED CROSS LINKING AGENTS

RECENT APPROACH IS TO USE

COMBINATION OF HOMO POLYMER OF PMA AND TER

POLYMER OF MALEIC ACID, ACRYLIC ACID AND VINYL

ALCOHOL

FINISH EQUIVALENT TO DMDHEU

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SOFTENERS

SILICONE SOFTENERS 

CLASSIFICATION

NON REACTIVE

REACTIVE

ORGANO FUNCTIONAL

PRESENTLY MOST POPULAR ORGANO

FUNCTIONAL SILICONE

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ECO FRIENDLINESS OF SILICONE SOFTENERS

SILICONE SOFTENERS ARE ECOLOGYCALLY INERT

NO EFFECT ON AEROBIC OR ANAEROBIC BACTERIA

DO NOT INHIBIT BIOLOGICAL PROCESS DURING WASTE WATER TREATMENT

NO ADVERSE EFFET ON SEED GERMINATION OR PLANT SURVIVAL

DO NOT BIO CONCENTRATE IN AQUATIC LIFE NO ADVERSE EFFECT ON AQUATIC LIFE AND

ANIMAL LIFE NO SIGNIFICANT BOD NO THREAT TO INSECT POPULATION AND BIRDS

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WATER RESISTANT BREATHABLE FINISH IMPERMEABLE TO WATER DROPLET ALLOW THE ESCAPE OF WATER VAPOUR POSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BECAUSE OF SIZE DIFFERENCE  LIQUID WATER MOLECULAR SIZE 100 MICRONS DIAMETER  WATER VAPOUR MOLECULAR SIZE 0.0004 MICRONS  SIZE DIFFERENCE FACTOR 2,50,000  SUCH GARMENTS DESIGNED FOR  SPORTS WEAR  SKI WEAR  TRACK SUITS  RAIN WEAR  MOUNTENEERING CLOTHING

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CLASSIFICATION OF BREATHABLE FABRICS

HIGH DENSITY WOVEN FABRICS USED AS OUTER COVER GARMENT AS WIND CHEATER

LAMINATED FABRICS LAMINATION OF MICRO POROUS BREATHABLE BARRIER

FILM LIKE PTFE SUCH PTFE MEMBRANES ARE USED IN GORETEX TWO AND

THREE LAYER LAMINATES OF POLYESTER FABRIC CLAIM OF 9 BILLION MICRO PORES PER SQUARE INCH WITH

A MAXIMUM PORE SIZE OF 0.2 MICRON

COATED FABRICS PU COATING MOST POPULAR

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BIO FINISHING APPLICATION OF CELLULASE ENZYMES FOR

FINISHING OF CELLULOSIC FABRICS AND

GARMENTS

CONCEPT DEVELOPED IN 1980’S

PRESENT MAJOR INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

WASH DOWN OR WORN OUT LOOK (STONE

WASH) ON INDIGO DYED DENIM

PROCESS KNOWN AS BIOSTONING

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CELLULASE ENZYME TYPES

1.  ACID STABLE (pH 4.5-5.5)

2.  NEUTRAL (pH 6.5-7)

3.  ALKALI STABLE (pH 9-10)

 

TEMPERATURE RANGE 40-60oC

 

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ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH

CLOTHING AND TEXTILE MATERIALS ARE CARRRIERS OF ORGANISMS SUCH AS

PATHOGENIC BACTERIA ODOUR GENERATING BACTERIA FUNGI GROWING CONCERN ALL OVER THE WORLD ON

THE DANGERS OF MICROBIAL CONTAMINATION RECENT OUT BREAK OF DISEASES LIKE AIDS, HEPATITIS

B HAVE INCREASED THE AWARENESS OF THESE HEALTH HAZARDS AND NEED FOR PROTECTION

NECESSARY TO IMPART ANTI MICROBIAL FINISH TO FABRIC OR GARMENT

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SURGICAL APPARELS

A SURGICAL PATIENT IS AT GREAT RISK AS THE

BACTERIAL AND VIRAL DESEASES ARE SPREAD

THROUGH AIR AND BLOOD

ANTI MICROBIAL FINISHED FABRIC PREVENT THE

GROWTH DISEASE CAUSING MICROBES

ANTI MICROBIAL TREATMENT TO SURGICAL

APPARELS IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE PROTECTION

OF PATIENT, DOCTOR AND NURSE

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UNDER GARMENTS AND BABY

CLOTHING

ANTI MICROBIAL UNDER GARMENTS ARE

USEFUL TO PREVENT SKIN RELATED

DISEASES, URINARY TRACK INFECTION

SINCE INTERNAL INTAKE OF ANTI BIOTIC

FOR INFANT IS NOT DESIRABLE

PROTECTIVE ACTION MAY BE ACHIEVED

THROUGH ANTI BACTERIAL CLOTHING

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FINISHING TECHNIQUESPAD-DRY-CURE

APPLICATION OF ANTIBACTERIAL AGENT ALONG

WITH CROSS LINKING AGENT SUCH AS

VARIOUS TRADE PRODUCTS

CHITOSAN AND CITRIC ACID

POLY(HEXAMETHYLENE HYDROCHLORIDE)

PHMB

METHANOLIC EXTRACT OF TULSI LEAVES

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EMERGING TECHNOLOGIESNEXTEC PROCESS

·      PATENTED BY NEXTEC APPLICATIONS Inc., USA

·      NOVEL PROCESS

·      INDIVIDUAL FIBRES WITHIN FABRIC ARE ENCAPSULATED OR WRAPPED WITH ULTRA THIN FILM OF POLYMER

·      CAN BE USED TO IMPART BREATHABLE WATER RESISTANT FINISH TO FABRIC WITHOUT

AFFECTING THE FABRIC HANDLE

·      ALSO POSSIBLE TO IMPART

·      WRINKLE RESISTANCE,

·      SOIL RELEASE, STAIN RESISTANCE,

·      UV PROTECTION

·      FLAME RESISTANCE

·      MICROBIAL BARRIER

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NEXTEC PROCESSTHIS UNIQUE FIBRE ENCAPSULATION

PROCESS ACHIEVED USINGSILICONE BASED POLYMERS POLYURETHANE POLYACRYLIC POLYMERS

THE PROCESS WOULD OPEN UP MANY

OPPORTUNITIES FOR PROVIDING

MULTI FUNCTIONAL FINISHES TO

COTTON FABRICS AND GARMENTS

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UV PROTECTIONINCREASED HEALTH PROBLEMS ON

EXPOSURE OF SKIN TO UV RADIATIONS DUE DEPLETION OF

OZONE LAYER

·    UV PROTECTION CAN BE IMPARTED

BYTREATMENT OF FABRICS OR

GARMENTS WITH SELECTED

UV ABSORBERS

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USE OF GENETIC ENGINEERING

BY THE NEXT DECADE GENETIC

MANIPULATION OF COTTON GENE

MAY USHER NEW COTTON VARIETIES

WITH IPROVED PROPERTIES TO

PRODUCE INNOVATIVE EFFECTS

THROUGH FINSHING

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CONCLUSIONSDESIRABLE PROPERTIES CAN BE IMPARTED TO COTTON BY APPLICATION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

      IMPROVE QUALITY OF COTTON      GIVE VALUE ADDITION

     MANY INNOVATIVE IDEAS ARE BEING

EXPLORED IN THE FIELD OF FUNCTIONAL

FINISHES

    IN THE NEXT DECADE QUITE A FEW NEW CONCEPTS MAY BE INTRODUCED FOR

IMARTING DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO COTTON FABRIC AND GARMENTS.