Enhancing colour sensitivity of artisans for creating lifestyle

products Sumita Sikka

Assistant Professor University Institute of Fashion Technology

Panjab UniversityChandigarh

There are number of self-help groups (SHGs), NGOs getting financial assistance from Ministries/ Boards/ Departments of Central and State Governments. For empowering women to earn their livelihood through stitching n tailoring, embroidery, weaving by creating lifestyle products like wallets, file folders, cushion covers, curtains, hand fans and mobile covers, stoles, dupattas, durries, matts etc .

The Dhurrie Chair by Pål Rodenius, photography by Hugh Frost

The D.C.(H), Ministry of Textiles & NABARD under various schemes are sponsoring their marketing activity in the prime cities and Chandigarh is one of them.

Few of NGOs & SHGs have earned recognition at various national and international forums for propagating ‘phulkari’.

Survey of Govt. sponsored exhibitions in Chandigarh

Survey of various exhibitions in Chandigarh revealed that most of the artisans/NGOs/SHGs etc are not aware of colour forecasting and psychology of colour.

Most of these groups do not employ designers and rely on market feedback and personal experience for applying colour knowledge to product.

The Patiala Handicraft Workshop Cooperative Society (PHWCS) started three times more earnings when helped by designers to polish their skills. (Gera, 2011)

The most common remarks about colours by artisans or project coordinators.

All colour look good when a product is complete.What ever available colour they have, they put

them together and pick up few based on personal judgment .

They are selling almost 60- 65 % of products based on personal preference of colour so have never though of working on it personally.

Colour suggested by designers are dull and are liked by people of high taste.

Traditional products like phulkari always look good in any bright colour combinations.

Home textiles and traditional textiles do not follow latest colour trends.

Why I choose this topic ?It is small step to link knowledge with

community service.Taking into consideration the limitation

of NGOs and SHGs to afford services of designers.

To create awareness about importance of colour in any design.

To impart knowledge to project coordinators about easily available colour references.

To provide method for effective usage of colour story.

Colour is the most integral part of any product. It is the first element to stimulate our sense to feel about a product, makes it more attractive.

Our emotional response to colour changes with passage of season and other social, psychological factors

There are various research agencies all over the world who are involved to predict colours for every fashion season.

Why knowledge of colour is important for design?

92% Believe colour presents an image of impressive quality

90% Feel colour can assist in attracting new customers

83% Believe colour makes them appear more successful

81% Think colour gives them a competitive edge

76% Believe that the use of colour makes their business appear larger to clientsSource: Conducted by Xerox Corporation and International Communications Research from February 19, 2003 to March 7, 2003, margin of error of +/- 3.1%. (Morton)

How to know about colour ?Forecasting –Not Simply GuessworkForecasting means predicting fashion

trends based on various inspirations.There are many companies in major

fashion cities of the world which are predicting fashion trends in basic four categories i.e.

colours _ fabrics _ patterns _ accessoriesIt is done well in advance of selling

season.

What are they doing ?Consumer Intelligence- behaviour, beliefs,

influences, cultural elements &wants. Creative IntelligenceMarketing Intelligence

The creation of Colour Card – 18 months ahead of season

The colour range is ready and is first presented to the exhibitors of trade show.

Fabrics trade fairs – One year ahead of season.Presented in fashion fairs by leading designers

and big brands six month ahead of season.

Colour forecasting Colour prediction for autumn/winter and

spring/summer is done separately.Colour is predicted 2 years ahead of time. They develop colour palettes based on various

technological developments as well as social, psychological, economic and cultural moods.

Mainly 5-8 themes( 3-4 new & 2 classic, 1-2retro ) for each season are shown on trend boards

These colour palettes are also used by non-fashion publications like gardening, travel and interior, film magazines.

Forecasting publications and websites:Companies- Promostyl , Paris; NellyRodi,

Amsterdam- Netherland; OPR (aka Overseas Publishers Representatives), New York; Here and There ; To be ;Heimtextile, Frankfurt-Germany

This information passes down in journals and magazines.

Journals-International Textiles, Textile View, Apparel on line,etc

Fashion Magazines - Vogue, Marie-Claire , ElleWebsites for runway shows- firstview.com,

wgsn.com

Price range of these publications are very high

Source - (OPR)

Pantone colour planner fall winter 2012-13

Colour Forecasting for -spring summer 2014

Source - http://www.fashion-magazines.com/forecasts/color_services.aspx

SPRING /SUMMER

2014Designer-Avinash kumar for Tavisha-ethnic wear, Max

SS 14 PRIMARY PERFECTION

A palette of strong primary colors saturated in a range of rainbow inspired hues.  From grassy greens and sky blues, to bordering fluorescent acidic yellows, combined with candy apple reds and fun fuchsia bright. Designer-Avinash kumar for Tavisha-ethnic wear, Max

B L U E REVIVAL

The vibration if blue can be used to open energy flow where it is blocked. Imagery is drawn from traditional Mediterranean ceramics and from folk inspired source. Worked as all-over or placements or as decorative border.

C’Estla La Mode- Delhi Based Duo designer-Anuradha Nath & Abhishek chandra

Colour References for spring summer 2014 monuments, Roads, Nail Paints, hair colours, flowers,

birds,sunrays reflection on river/ ocean. Starting from Bindi till colours of nature.

Some of the colors HIT for Indian weddings are:

Their Bridal Collection

Designer- Gaurav Kumar, Santushti shopping complex , New Delhi Says –He makes his colour palatte after

researching for latest prints and trims in Delhi markets like Lajpat Rai market, Nehru place market, Selampur market for fabrics.

Kinnari bazaar for trims. Nayi sadak for getting dye able

fabrics.

Few of the colour boards created by design students As latest magazines also use

colour forecasting so taking out page with its complete background or only picture will give good idea of harmony in the colour scheme .

Student – Avinash Niift F.D. IV (2008)

Taking background into account as per Gestalt Principles of design -suggesting the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. 1.Figure/Ground 2. Similarity3. Proximity4. Closure5. Good Continuation (Continuity)6. Symmetry or Order

Founders of gestalt theory -Max Wertheimer, Wolfgang Kohler, and Kurt Koffka.

Rejuvenating Craft - Colour scheme created for NGO

Mind grasp totality of something before going in for details. (Tuck, 2010)

Conclusion

Thinking in terms of colour will help in creating success stories.

Getting inspired by references will yield better result .

Interactions of academician with artisans will help in strengthening communities.

Making coordinators Of NGOs/ SHGs aware will help in their success and will directly affect the earning of artisans.

Reference for material Non Fashion Magazines- like interior

designing, gardening, Film magazines also refering them for colours.

Retail outlets of latest printed Fabrics – Kohinoor Plaza sector 17, Kala

emporium and surrounding shops in sector 11 market, Chandigarh.

Retail Outlets of latest trims- Babe di hatti, Sector 20, lace house , Sector 22.

References Aspelund, K. (2006). The Design Process. New York: Fairchild Publications.Inc.

Gera, K. (2011, April 12). Phulkari empowers women in punjab. Retrieved March 8, 2014, from

Business standard: http://www.business-standard.com/article/sme/phulkari-empowers-women-in-

punjab-111041200136_1.html

Gestalt Principles. (n.d.). Retrieved from

http://graphicdesign.spokanefalls.edu/tutorials/process/gestaltprinciples/gestaltprinc.htm

McKelvey, K., & M, J. (2003). Fashion Design: Process, Innovation & Practice. UK: Blackwell Science .

Morton, J. (n.d.). Research. Retrieved March 8, 2014, from colorcom.com:

http://www.colorcom.com/research/why-color-matters

OPR. (n.d.). Forecastes . Retrieved March 9, 2014, from Colour Services:

http://www.fashion-magazines.com/forecasts/color_services.aspx

Morton, J. (n.d.). Research. Retrieved March 8, 2014, from colorcom.com:

References PremiereVision. (n.d.). Organization Presentation. Retrieved March 9, 2014, from

http://www.premierevision.com/en/Organization/Presentation

Premierevision. (n.d.). The creation of color card. Retrieved March 9, 2014, from Fashion &

Creativity: http://www.premierevision-newyork.com/Fashion-creativity/Info-seminars

S. S. Memorial Educational Society. (n.d.). Annual Report April 2012- March 2013. Retrieved

March 9, 2014, from News and Publications: http://www.ssmes.org/index_files/report2012-

13.pdf

Tuck, M. (2010, August 17). Gestalt Principles applied in Design. Retrieved March 9, 2014,

from Six revisions: http://sixrevisions.com/web_design/gestalt-principles-applied-in-design/