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ROpes2012

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„Our ropes are eco-friendly“ - Respecting the environment

Quality and safety are the key to making responsible and innovative high-performance ropes. EDELRID has been following this maxim for the past 149 ye-ars. Our ropes and experience in manufacturing them are the heart and soul of our long-established brand.

To further extend our quality and safety standards, we have been working with bluesign® technologies ag from Switzerland since 2009. We are the first rope manufacturer to adapt our ropes to meet the tough demands of the bluesign® standard. The bluesign® standard is the most stringent envi-ronmental standard for the production of functional textiles. It is independent, internationally recognized and based on the five principles of sustainability. These include resource productivity, emissions pro-tection, safety at work and consumer protection. The bluesign® standard’s goal is to follow these five principles throughout the whole textile manufactu-ring chain.

EDELRID has set new industry benchmarks for inno-vative and sustainable rope production. All the mate-rials used to make our ropes are bluesign®-approved fabrics. We can therefore guarantee as few pol-lutants as possible without making any compro-mises in terms of functionality, quality and design. Our ropes carry the bluesign® product label thanks to their combination of certified source materials and our advanced rope production facilities in Isny, Germany. The bluesign product label is a sign of qua-lity. It guarantees an eco-friendly manufactured pro-duct that is low in pollutants and safe for heath and the environment. As such, we have responded to consumers’ natural demands for safe, environmen-tally friendly and sustainable products.

bluesign® certifiedropes

EDELRID

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Three years of bluesign® allow us to draw on in-depth experience of sustainable rope production. By converting all our rope production to the tough de-mands of the bluesign® standard we were able to make the following efficiencies when dyeing sheath yarns:

• CO2: -62%

•WatER: -89%

•EnERgy: -63%

•ChEmICaLs: -63%

For EDELRID this represents a further step towards a sustainable future. We have consistently pursued the task of pushing forward sustainable rope pro-duction so that we can continue to inspire trust in the future. We do not consider these measures a virtue, but a natural response to demands of the mo-dern world. As the inventor of the kernmantel rope, we continue to set new standards. We can now confidently say that our ropes are eco-friendly.

Conventional rope production

bluesign® certified EDELRID production

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UnIqUE & RELIabLE

InnOvatIOn

Thermo Shield: The Thermo Shield treatment has been in use at EDELRID for more than 20 years. Thermo Shield is a thermal stabilizing process for the rope that gives it the famous EDELRID handling characteristics and feel. The rope undergoes a heat treatment cure to stabilize and harmonize the indivi-dual yarns. This treatment cannot be washed out and ensures a supple rope throughout its working life.

DuoTec: A new, patented EDELRID process to ma-nufacture bi-color ropes. One of the braiding spools is manufactured to have a contrasting color to cre-ate two distinctly different sheath patterns. Each half of the rope length has a different color. The Du-oTec process ensures permanent marking in the middle of the rope and a distinctive design. The dif-ferently patterned rope halves are easily identifiable – very useful when rappelling, determining how much rope you have left, or butterfly coiling.

Quality and safety are key to creating responsible and innovative high-performance products. EDELRID has been producing innovative ropes “Made in Germany” for 149 years. As the inventor of the kernmantel rope, we have continued to set ever-higher standards. Our in-depth experience of rope production, combined with cutting edge production technology and innovative finishing processes means that our ropes are state of the art.

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Pro Shield: With the Pro Shield finish every single core and sheath yarn is covered with a synthetic flu-oropolymer coating that is stable and nontoxic. The microscopic (10-9 µ) fluoropolymer particles are bonded to the yarns by an electro-chemical process forming an impermeable protective layer. This both reduces the friction between the individual yarns and increases the sliding properties of these yarns, which substantially improves the rope’s loading pro-perties. This helps the rope to withstand the external forces (falls) exerted upon it during climbing. Additi-onally, the rope is well protected against moist and dirty conditions.

Sports Braid: EDELRID’s specially developed she-ath construction whereby one yarn is crossed by two. The result is a very tight, smooth and flexible sheath structure. This construction method has be-come synonymous with a particularly high abrasion resistance typical of ropes with this sheath.

Dry Shield: Dry Shield is a chemical finish for the sheath yarns. The finish is resistant to washing-out, providing a long lasting oleo and hydrophobic coa-ting that keeps water, oily substances and dirt off the fibers. Together with the Thermo Shield treat-ment, the Dry Shield optimizes handling, abrasion resistance and performance. This all helps to impro-ve the lifespan of the rope.

alpIne spORts ClImbIngLEss Is mORE

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Swift 8,9 mm: A single rope which compiles to the twin and double rope standards. At just 8.9 mm, the Swift is one of the thinnest single ropes on the market.

Smith: The Smith harness combines optimal com-fort and minimal weight, and sets new standards for high-end harnesses. Fitted with a Hytrel®-Protector at the tie-in point to increase the lifetime of the harness.

Shield II: An ultralight and robust “soft shell” hel-met. Thanks to its innovative closure system the Shield II fits all sizes and guarantees outstanding safety and comfort. Its large side vents prevent heat build-up and ensure a constant supply of fresh air on long alpine routes. With four robust headlamp clips.

Mission Set: Ultralight quickdraw set for alpine climbing. The 60 cm version is ideal for straighte-ning rope lines on tricky alpine routes.

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1x Swift 60 m 3120 g1x Rapline 60 m 1500 g1x Smith 370 g1x Shield ii 280 g1x thyphoon 540 g1x helix 25 780 g1x Kilo Jul 80 g1x StRiKe SlideR 62 g10x miSSion Set 590 g1x Rope tooth

47 gtOtaL: 7369 g

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DREams Of yOUth

lukas bIndeR

A route for lemurs It all started with Daniel and Ari Gebels’ expediti-

on in 2005. They came back from the Tsaranoro Massif in the Andringitra National Park, Madagascar with these amazing photos. In 2007, Toni Lamprecht also took great shots of his new routes in this incre-dible region. Lukas and Wusel were completely fasci-nated and decided to go climb the Tsaranoro Massif for themselves – at some point. This summer it was time to head for Madagascar. After collecting infor-mation from the Gebel brothers and Toni Lamprecht, they flew from Munich to Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar via Dubai and Mauritius. Fellow clim-bers Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur also joined them for the expedition.

Their first sight of the 700-meter cliff glowing red in the setting sun left them speechless. It is a huge face. And has few visible cracks. It’s so perfect; it looks like something straight off a film set. In fact, it’s almost surreal. And then there is the surrounding landscape: the approach involves a one-hour mini jungle trek. And the starry night skies have to be seen to be believed. The sunsets and sunrises are just breathtaking.

The bold route that Lukas, Wusel, Philipp and To-bias have spied out for their first ascent turns out to be a Sisyphean project. It’s tough going. They spend eight days up in the wall, set 500 meters of fixed ropes, fit 170 bolts (the third and final replacement bit of their Makita drill broke on the day they plan-ned to summit). Compared to other routes on the massif which generally have small but positive holds (e.g. bomb-proof flakes), their line featured a large

number of slopers, tiny rounded holds and mini ledges. The lower pitches involve athletic climbing on vertical or overhanging rock. The middle section which is vertical or slightly sloping and very techni-cal poses a real challenge. Even just drilling the bolts is extremely hard work. The upper section in-volves climbing over small bulges, with extremely bold individual moves. The four final pitches are slightly easier but still very demanding. Anyone wanting to climb this route should be comfortable at sport 10+/11.

Despite the fact that any hope of freeing the route was dashed pretty early on, they remain positive. And continue to work well as a team for the duration of the four weeks. Wusel should be singled out for his particular contribution here. Shortly before lea-ving home he purchased a small pocket music box, was which occasionally known to play folk music, much to the amusement of locals and expedition members alike. This means there is music up in the portaledge and for the daily warm up. And of course, there was the obligatory Bavarian flag-- although it didn’t get to see the summit. In the heat of the mo-ment, it was tragically left behind during the final push. To make up for the disappointment, Tobias suddenly pulled two bars of chocolate from his bag at the top. It had been tough, avoiding the temptati-on to open them, but somehow he persevered. After all the hard work and rather basic meals, the team was delighted. They were also pleased with their first ascent. Their route “Dreams of Youth” is bound to draw strong climbers to Madagascar looking to make the first free ascent. They have paved the way.

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Lukas: We assumed that our route would have difficulties similar to the other routes on the massif. Unfortunate-ly, this turned out not to be the case.

Dreams of Youth I 7b/A1, 18 pitches

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alpIne mOuntaIneeRIngLIght anD stROng

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Creed: You no longer have to choose between weight and comfort on alpine routes. Creed is an all-around harness with a laminated construction, adju-stable leg loops and protector at the tie-in point.

Zodiac: The Zodiac is a lightweight and extremely stable hybrid helmet with an innovative closure sy-stem, large side vents and integrated headlamp clips.

Mirage 25: A technical, alpine backpack with re-movable back plate and a raft of clever features: detachable lid compartment, integrated packing loop, variable compression system with Clip Fix buckles, and ice tool attachment loops.

Apus 7,8 mm: The Apus complies with both twin and double rope standards, making it the ideal rope weight and comfort on alpine routes.

2x apuS 60m 5040 g

1x CReed 380 g

1x ZodiaC 380 g

1x miRage 25 920 g

1x Belay Station Sling deluxe 85 g

1x hmS magnum 82 g

1x KiRo ti 72 g

1x titan mug 72 g

2 x Riot 1220 g

5 x miSSion Set 360 g

tOtaL: 8611 g

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spORts ClImbIngWORkIng hERO

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Hawk 10,0 mm: Those looking for a rope that can be worked hard make the right decision when choo-sing the Hawk. Its sport braid sheath construction ma-kes this an ideal choice for all types of sport climbing.

Loopo: An ultralight harness for performance-ori-ented sport, indoor and competition climbing. The Loopo works without a buckle, helping to reduce the weight to only 265 g. A very high level of comfort is attained through the Triad -System, and the ergono-mic design gives maximum sitting comfort.

Jul: Single rope belay device with a unique two-component construction. The body is made of high-quality stainless steel, offering the best possible abrasion resistance with minimal heat conduction. The synthetic cover protects your skin from burning after a prolonged belay or rappel session. Suitable for ropes between 8.9 and 10.5 mm.

Raven: The Raven is our top-class shoe pre-de-stined for all those who expect the maximum assi-stance from their climbing footwear. The Raven can be used as a slipper or with hook and loop band thanks to the unique Slide-Rail® system. Vibram® XS-Grip sole for the best coefficient of friction.

1x hawK 60 m 3720 g1x loopo 265 g1x Raven 555 g1x CRag Bag ii 1130 g1x Jul 63 g1x hmS StRiKe fg 70 g10 x puRe dyneema Set 900 g1x BB glove 75 g1x CoSmiC twiSt 109 gtOtaL: 6887 g

UnCOILIng A new ROPe: the future of a rope can be affected from the moment you unpack it. if you just open the package and lay the rope on the ground, you will always have twists and kinks in it. this is because ropes are coiled onto drums duri-ng production and delivered in this same coiled con-dition. it is therefore particularly important that this process is reversed and the rope is uncoiled before use. to do this, carefully remove the securing bands, place both lower arms though the middle of the coil and then pull them apart so that the rope forms a ring. now unwind the rope slowly and carefully as if you were coiling a spool of yarn (only in the opposite direction) so that the rope falls loosely to the ground. take care that no loops form around your wrist! once the whole rope has been unwound, run it through two or three times and shake it out slightly remove any last kinks. when you are finished, coil up the rope, or even better store it in a rope bag. it’s worth carrying out the whole process indoors or using a rope bag, to ensure that it remains free from dirt.

FaCtsabOUt CLImbIng ROpEs

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ROPe BAg: Rope bags are widely recognized as the best means of transporting and storing ropes. easy to use, they protect ropes from dirt and moi-sture and even double as a seat when putting your shoes on. the rope can be attached to one of the rope bag’s integrated tie-in corner loops to prevent the end from running through the belay. the tarp enables perfect rope organization after the lead climber is tied into the free end. at the end of the day, simply tie the free end back to the spare tie-in corner loop, wrap the tarp up and store it in the bag.

Rope care: even if you use a rope bag, ropes can often end up getting dirty. an occasional wash maintains good handling and improves performance. Ropes should be washed with a mild synthetic deter-gent or rope cleaner from a specialist retailer. the best way to wash rope is in lukewarm water in the bath, but a delicates cycle (30°C/ 85f) in the washing machine is also oK, just don’t use the spin cycle! to dry, spread it out on the ground in a cool, dark place. this is better than hanging it up.

LIfe SPAn: Ropes deteriorate over time even if they are not used. They should be replaced at least every ten years. A rope that is only used occasional-ly and stored carefully can provide three to six years of service. Climbers using a rope on a regular basis, which therefore takes lots of falls, should downgrade their rope to just “top rope use” after one year. Alt-hough it’s not possible to provide exact values for the usable life of ropes, one thing is widely ac-cepted: the more you use a rope, the less safety re-serves it has. Poor handling or a worn sheath will make it clear to the safety-conscious user that it’s time to replace their rope. It is important to replace a rope if it has been subjected to extreme forces or is damaged. For example, following a big fall with a high fall factor, if it has come into contact with ag-gressive chemicals, if the sheath is worn or dama-ged to the extent that the inner core is showing, if the sheath has come away from the core or started to bunch up, in the event of serious friction burns or if the rope gets contaminated.

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IndOORCIty sURvIvaL

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Jay: The Jay is the real all-arounder in the EDELRID collection. This harness features adjustable leg loops, flexible gear loops, positionable waist pad-ding and Hytrel®-Protector on the tie-in loop, which protects the webbing from abrasion.

Boa DuoTec 9,8 mm: The Boa is a good introduc-tory rope to the sub 10.0 mm diameter range. Our new DuoTec process provides permanent marking in the middle of the rope and a distinct design.

Caddy: The Caddy is a revolutionary rope bag desi-gned to keep things simple. The rope is housed in a flexible cylinder in the middle of the tarp to prevent knots and tangles. At the end of the day, simply lift the tarp at the corner loops and the rope slides straight back into the cylinder.

Blizzard: The Blizzard is the most comfortable climbing shoe we’ve ever made. Its straight cut and asymmetrical form save energy and the reinforced midsole provides increased support for edging or small footholds.

1x Boa 60 m 3720 g1x Jay 470 g1x BliZZaRd 500 g1x eddy 360 g1x hmS StRiKe 65 g1x Caddy

790 g1x CoSmiC 106 g10x puRe Set 95 g

tOtaL: 6106 g

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COlleCtIOnOvERvIEW

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Swift 8,9 52 5

Kite 9,2 56 5

Falcon 9,4 60 6

Eagle 9,8 63 10

Apus 7,8 42 8/20

Heron 9,8 62 8

Harrier 10,0 65 9

Kestrel 8,5 48 16

Merlin 8.0 44 13

Hawk 10,0 62 6

Osprey 10,3 68 9

Shikra 8,5 47 8

Viper 9,6 60 5

Boa 9,8 62 6

Python 10,0 64 7

Cobra 10,3 68 8

Tower 10,5 7 69 1 9

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Pro

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Swift 8,9

Kite 9,2

Falcon 9,4

Eagle 9,8

Apus 7,8

Heron 9,6

Harrier 10,0

Kestrel 8,5

Merlin 8,0

Hawk 10,0

Osprey 10,3

Shikra 8,5

Viper 9,6

Boa 9,8

Python 10,0

Cobra 10,3

Tower 10,5,5

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EDELRID I Achener Weg 66 I 88316 Isny Im Allgäu, germAny I Tel.+49 (0) 7562 981 - 0 I FAx +49 (0) 7562 981 - 100mAIl@edelrId.de I WWW.edelrId.de