Emulsun®:A PEG-Free, Natural Emulsifier · isononyl isononanoate; and the water phase included 2%...
Transcript of Emulsun®:A PEG-Free, Natural Emulsifier · isononyl isononanoate; and the water phase included 2%...
Emollient Compatibility
Emulsun (6%) is compatible with a variety of emollients (20%) with a range of rHLBs from 4-9. Emulsun is also compatible with sunscreens and up to 10% ethanol. Use Emulsun to create stable formulas with a range of emollients.1
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Dimethicone (350cs)
Dimethicone (20cs)Olive Oil
Floramac Macadamia OilFlorasun 90
OctyldodecanolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isononyl IsononoanoateFloraesters 15
Mineral Oil
Floramac 10
Viscosity (cP)
rHLB
pH = 6.5-7.56% Emulsun
Thickener & pH Compatibility
4 6 8 10 120
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10% Emulsun8% Emulsun6% Emulsun
pH
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osity
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20% Oil
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Emulsun Loading Level
Visc
osity
(cP)
20% OilpH = 7
The viscosity can be tailored by adjusting the Emulsun loading level (with 20% oil) or the oil loading level (with 6% Emulsun), without the use of thickeners. Emulsun is versatile and gives formulators a variety of rheology options for stable1 formulations.
Emulsun can be used at reasonable loading levels, between a ratio of 2:1 and 5:1 (Oil:Emulsun), to build the viscosity of stable1 formulas with up to 40% oil (without the use of secondary emulsifiers or thickeners).
Emulsun can be used to create stable2 formulas from pH 4-11.
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Oil Loading Level
Visc
osity
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6% EmulsunpH = 7
Achieve Target Viscositywww.floratech.com
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Oil Loading Level vs. Viscosity Emulsun Loading Level vs. ViscosityViscosity vs. rHLB
pH vs. Viscosity
• PEG-free
• HLB independent
• Non-ionic
• Preservative-free
• Biodegradable
• Low odor and color
• Easy to handle
particles
• Low cost
• Oxidatively stable
• Sensory appeal
• Liquid crystal
structure
Emulsun®: A PEG-Free, Natural EmulsifierTiffany N. Quinn, MS (Floratech, Chandler, AZ) and
Robert A. Harper, PhD (Harper & Associates, La Jolla, CA)
Formulators have the option of thickeners5 that are compatible with Emulsun which can be used to build viscosity and create stable1 formulas with low oil loading levels.
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osity
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5:1 Oil:Emulsun
pH = 6.5-7.5
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C - 0.50% Natrosol 250 HR CSD - 0.30% Keltrol CGE - 0.30% Aristoflex AVC
A - 0.15% Carbopol Ultrez 21 PolymerB - 0.15% Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer
F - No Thickener (Emulsun only)
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Emulsun outperforms standard o/w emulsifiers by providing stable4 formulas with comparable viscosities.
Outperforms
Emulsifier (E) % E % Oil Stable Viscosity (cP) % E % Oil Stable Viscosity (cP)
Emulsun 6
20
pass 100250 8
40
pass 234125
Cetearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth-20
6 fail --- 8 fail ---
9 fail --- 15 fail ---
Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate
6 fail --- 8 pass2 258125
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters / Glyceryl Stearate / Cetearyl Alcohol / Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
6 fail --- 8 fail ---
Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 Stearate
4 pass 68667 93 fail ---
How to Use: Add Emulsun® to the oil phase. Heat both the oil and
aqueous phases to 75-80°C. Combine the oil and aqueous phases with
moderate to rapid mixing (or homomixing). Reduce mixing speeds at
temperatures below 60°C. When adding other ingredients (e.g., fragrance,
preservatives, etc.) below 40°C, disperse briefly with slow to moderate
mixing, as over mixing may cause a loss of viscosity. Typical Emulsun
usage levels are 3-8%, and typical oil loading levels are 15-40%.
Ease of Addition: Emulsun is an easy to handle spherical particle.
The free-flowing particles improve dosing precision from bench-top
formulations to large-scale production lines. The Emulsun particle form
also offers an increased surface area compared to flakes or pellets. This
allows Emulsun to be efficiently melted and blended. This increases
throughput, lowers heating requirements, and creates a greener production
process.
Compatibility: Emulsun is compatible with natural and synthetic oils,
esters, silicones, ethanol, sunscreens, and thickeners.
Liquid Crystal Structure: The sunflower-derived monoglycerides and
polyglyceride esters form a self-assembling hexagonal liquid crystal phase
with oil in water formulations. This liquid crystal structure helps decrease
surface tension and improves emulsification.
Stability Information:
Unless otherwise stated, the oil phase in the lotions / creams included sunflower oil, macadamia oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride oil, ethyl macadamiate, jojoba esters, and isononyl isononanoate; and the water phase included 2% glycerin.
1. Stable for 2 weeks at 50°C and for 3 cycles of freeze / thaw. 2. Not freeze / thaw stable.3. Also included 3% cetearyl alcohol. 4. Stable for 12 weeks at 4°C, room temperature, and 43°C, in addition to 3 cycles of freeze / thaw.5. Carbopol, Natrosol, Keltrol, and Aristoflex are registered trademarks of The Lubrizol Corp., Ashland, Inc., CP Kelco, and Clariant Corp., respectively.
Formulating:
Dermatologic Efficacy• Increase skin hydration• Increase barrier function• Increase sensory appeal• No white residue
With and Without Thickeners
INCI
Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Hydrogenated Sunflower Seed Oil Glyceryl Esters (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
is a versatile, sunflower-derived o/w emulsifier.
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© Copyright 2018 International Flora Technologies, Ltd. All Rights Reserved.
Emulsun®: A PEG-Free, Natural Emulsifier
Presented by: Tiffany N. Quinn, M.S. and Robert A. Harper, Ph.D.
For the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Technology Showcase
December 11-12, 2018New York, NY
Contact: [email protected]
www.floratech.com
Floratech Proprietary & Confidential © Copyright 2018 International Flora Technologies, Ltd., All Rights ReservedMKT16 REV. OCT 2017sales@fl oratech.com
weeks at 43oC0 6 12
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Florabeads Jojoba
Ecobeads
Cellulose 1
Cellulose 2
Cellulose 3
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