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P H O T O S : X X X X X

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Legend has it that once upona time, the Jade Emperor senta Mother Dragon and herchildren to protect the people of Vietnam from invaders. As the

dragons landed on earth, they spat out acascade of jewels (jade or pearls, depending on who you’re talking to), which turnedinto thousands of stone islands andislets, forming a great wall against theinvaders’boats. And thus, the Vietnamesepeople kept their land and Halong Bay was born.

Whether or not one believes in mythical

creatures, Halong Bay, where the MotherDragon is supposed to have landed, is truly an awesome sight.

This was my third trip to this attraction,located in the Gulf of Tonkin, and as acurrent resident of Vietnam, I’ve read aboutits splendours so many times I’ve lost count. Yet, as I sat on the deck in my comfy wickerchair, I was once again captivated by thebeauty and sheer scale of the place.

Unesco, which accorded the bay WorldHeritage Status in 1994, aptly called it “aspectacular seascape of limestone pillars”. And wintry Halong (I was there in February)assumes an even more surreal form.

Jagged rocks rise up to the heavens fromthe jade-green waters, forming some 1,600islands – most of which are uninhabited – of

every imaginable size and shape, layer uponlayer of imposing yet fascinating outcropsstretching as far as the eye can see. Thedramatic scenery is striking to behold, I hadto admit, no matter how many times onehas seen it.

This time, however, two histories collided.My front seat to Halong Bay was onEmeraude , whose history goes back only ahundred years and is short of a dragon ortwo, but is no less fascinating.

It all started with a vintage postcard. In1999, Eric Merlin, founder of ExotissimoTravel, chanced upon a postcard in a Parisian

ea market of a 19th

-century paddle steamernamed Emeraude.His search for the origins of the steamer

led him to the vaults of the French Colonial Archives in Aix-en-Provence, where hefound out that Emeraude was part of a eetof ships owned by the Roque brothers fromFrance, that used to cruise Halong Bay from1906 to 1937.

Merlin sent letters to over 1,200 people with the surname Roque before thedescendants were found. With the archivesand original photos now available, Merlinset out to build a near replica of the originalEmeraude – elegantly big, beautifully whiteand sumptuously colonial. The 38-room vessel has been traversing the waters of Halong since 2003.

Everyone was out on the deck as soon we boarded – we’d all travelled the threeand-half-hour journey from Hanoi in theearly morning – enjoying the never-endi

view. Even the cool breeze didn’t dent thenthusiasm of the travellers, an amalgamlocal and foreign tourists, couples, familiand groups of friends, all eager to discovthe magic of Halong Bay.

I’d feared that I’d have to walk along thsides and roofs of a few different boats tget to mine, like I had to do before withold-style junks, elbowing our way amidhundreds of other tourists who are also

clamouring to reach their cabins. I neednhave worried. We reached the boat by a jaunty little tender from the purpose-buil(and beautifully quiet) jetty.

The cabins occupy the two lower oorMine was the Paul Roque Suite at the vefront of the boat, named after a second-generation Roque brother and one of thetwo suites onboard. With a snug double bpolished wooden oors, air-conditioningand an attached shower and bathroom, itglows with the soft light from the beautiglass lamps. There’s even a private deck outside, replete with sun beds. No wondeit’s a hit with the honeymooners.

Like almost all of the vessels that cruithe Halong Bay, the Emeraude experiencincludes breakfast, lunch and dinner. But

WatchBay

The serenity of Halong

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unlike most, the food isn’t limited to freshseafood (delicious for me, unfamiliar anduncomfortable for most of those travelling from the West). Here, spring rolls, steamedclams and grilled prawns sat side by side with potato gratin, pork tenderloin andimported Australian steak, the buffet laid outneatly in a dining room that is like stepping back into time.

Old-fashioned leather chairs, dark woodswivel chairs, brass ttings and beadboard wainscoting all gave a true seafareratmosphere. The boat started to cruise aslunch began – by the time I was on the deckagain, Halong City was just a little speckon the horizon and the towering rocks that we’ve admired from afar came into full,close-up view.

The sun’s rays across the emerald waters, the forest green trees covering theislands and the windswept rocks formed acombination unlike any other. As the boatmoved forward, little openings betweenthe islands loomed larger before your eyes,affording views of yet another island, grottosor lagoons.

Most of the islands may be inhabited, butthis hasn’t stopped the local shermen fromgiving them whimsical names, based onlegends and the shape they hold. There werethe “kissing rocks”, the “stone dog islet”,the “cat islet”and the “turtle island”, just toname a few.

We passed by shing villages – littlerickety huts and boats oating on the waterand looking like they came straight outof a beautiful watercolour. Apparently, over1,600 people live in these villages dottedaround the bay.

There are schools for the children,television and radios for the wealthierfamilies, and even a karaoke place for those who want some entertainment.

Local kids born and raised on waterapproached Emeraude, expertly handling their small boats and tempting us with boxesof sweets, biscuits and shiny pearls that areharvested in Halong.

We saw traditional junks along the way,their sails apping in the wind, and as the waiter served me a cup of hot pepperminttea, I could easily imagine what it must havebeen like over a century ago, when there

were few boats and even fewer tourists. Onething remained certain though, the majestic

scenery of Halong Bay must have been ascaptivating as it still is now.

We visited the Sung Sot Cave, alsoknown as the Surprise Grotto, a legendary limestone cave with two main chambers andnumerous stalactites and stalagmites. Thepath was steep but the panoramic view at

the top made the arduous trek worthwhile.By ve in the evening, the sun had set

and the rocks took a different form. Only thesilhouettes were visible, yet they remainedmysterious and imposing, a wonderful workof nature that gave human beings a reality check. It was an opportunity to remember

■ It’s best to commute from Hanoi if you’re going to Halong Bay. The selection of hotels in Halong City is somewhatlacklustre currently, and there aren’t many activities. However,this may change when the Sheraton and Novotel open theirdoors later this year.

■ If you’re planning to see Halong aboard a traditional junk andnot too keen on seafood or have special dietary requirements,

make sure to tell the travel agent/cruise operator in advance.■ You will not have access to the internet and even the phone

reception will suffer once you leave the shore. So leave yourlaptops behind. Make sure your camera is fully chargedthough, as Halong is the perfect place for shutterbugs.

■ Bring hats, shawls and sun block. The wind may be cold but whatever sun there is can still burn you.

Halong Bay is located in the Gulf of Tonkin innorthern Vietnam. It’s around a three-and-a-half hour drive from Hanoi, usually with a 20-minuteor so stop at one of the many showrooms thatproduce embroidered paintings, stone sculpturesand other souvenirs.

Vietnam has a tropical weather with amonsoon season. Although Hanoi enjoysfour seasons, May to September is roughly

considered hot with heavy showers and Octoberto April as cold season with little rain. The besttimes to see Halong are either at start or the tailend of the cold season.

Valid single and multiple entry visas arerequired for entry into Vietnam. They canbe applied in advance at your local Vietnamembassy or consulate general.

FRONT SEATS TO AN ICONEMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISEStel 84 4 934 0888www.emeraude-cruises.com

HALONG JASMINE tel 84 4 984 2807www.cruisehalong.com

BHAYA CRUISES tel 84 4 944 6777www.bhayacruises.com

LOCAL ADVANTAGE

FACT FILE

Despite all our inventions, we remain inawe of – and are humbled by – nature’shandiwork. Some things are impossible toconstruct even with the latest technology

P H

OT

O: B R E N T T MA D I S

ON

that despite all our inventions, we remainin awe of – and are humbled by – nature’shandiwork. Some things are impossible toconstruct even with the latest technology and innovation.

I woke up the next morning as the sunlcame in through the windows. Soon, I’dhave to pack my bags and return to shore.It had been less than 24 hours since I camon the boat but I felt like I’ve done, seenand learnt a lot. Emeraude’s chief purserThomas Kossler is a wealth of knowledgeand the ebullient French captain Jacques LFur, full of fascinating anecdotes, a perfec

dinner companion.Cruising Halong on the Emeraude is re what you make of it. There are numerousactivities to do, from the early morning tasessions to kayaking and swimming in thbeautiful lagoons, from learning how to mspring rolls to indulging in spa services.

For a repeat visitor like me, however, itall about the splendour of the location. Thgentle thud of the boat, the quiet hum of thengine and the vastness of the surroundinlull you into a state of contemplation andcontentment one rarely nds in the hustleand bustle of everyday life. If anyone hasfuture plans for cruises that last more thanone night, please let me know. I have my travel bag ready. ■

Emeraude’s Paul Roque Suite