An Outdoor RoomWRiteR: Bill lahay. illustRAtOR: Roxanne lemoine. PROject designeR: Jeni hilpipRe-wRight.

To make the garden structure featured on the cover of this issue, follow these instructions.

®12 wood stakes (18–24 inches long) ®Four cardboard tube concrete forms, 12-

inch diameter, 4 feet long*

®20 bags ready-mix concrete, 80 pounds each*

®Four metal post base brackets with fasteners*

®1 cubic yard crushed rock or pea gravel

®12 pieces 1×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for window frames)

®Three pieces 4×4 (nominal) pressure-treated pine, 8 feet long (for part A)

®22 pieces 4×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for parts B–L)

®Two pieces 2×4 (nominal) cedar, 8 feet long (for part M)

®Two barn sash windows (22×29 inches) or equivalent (optional)

®Three barn sash windows (22×41 inches) or equivalent (optional)

®One package 5d (1 3⁄4-inch) galvanized finishing nails

®Thirty 3⁄8×6-inch lag screws with flat washers

®One package No. 10×3-inch deck screws

®10 sheets corrugated galvanized steel roof panels, 25×72 inches

®One galvanized cap/ridge flashing, 8 feet long

®One package washer-head screws (for metal roof panels)

®One package No. 6×1 5⁄8-inch deck screws

®1 gallon exterior-grade clear wood sealer (or semitransparent stain)

*Optional: recommended for high-wind areas or where required by code

¸materials®Tape rule®Hammer ®Posthole digger (if placing

concrete piers)®Builder’s level (4 feet or longer)®Trenching shovel®Carpenter’s pencil®Angle square or combination square®Portable circular saw®Table saw®Wood chisel (1 inch or larger)®Drill with 3⁄16- and 3⁄8-inch bits®Drill bit, 12 inches long,

1⁄4-inch diameter®Ratchet driver with 9⁄16-inch socket®12-inch power miter saw®No. 2 Phillips screwdriver or

driver bit®Two stepladders (8 feet)®Paintbrushes

¸ toolsPAge 34

Skill level: Beginning woodworkerTime to complete: One weekend (allow additional time if you include concrete footings)Estimated cost: $1,200 (with footings)

get goingFirst, select a site that is reasonably level, and drive

a wood stake at each corner (each wall measures

93 inches). To ensure a square footprint, adjust the

stakes until the diagonals measure the same length

(131 1⁄2 inches). If you live in

a windy area or your local code requires concrete

footings for a structure this size, dig holes for four

concrete piers under the side walls as shown on

page 94. Level the cardboard forms in the holes, fill

with mixed concrete, and insert a post base

bracket in each while the concrete is wet. For our

project, we also trenched for the sides and back

wall so the sill plates would nest flush with the

ground. Use the trench digger to dig the trenches

several inches deeper and wider than necessary,

then add crushed rock or pea gravel to the

trenches to improve drainage. Let the concrete

footings cure for at least three days.

Build theWindow FramesAlthough the window assemblies are installed later

in the process, building them first lets you space

the beams and collar ties correctly. The finished

window frame sizes will depend on the window

sash you buy. For the frame stock, use the circular

saw to cut 1×4 cedar boards to the required

lengths and attach them to the sash as shown in

the Window Assembly Detail illustration, above.

Then use a table saw to rip the extra 1×4 stock into

do it guide

DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 93

3⁄4-inch molding strips and attach them as shown,

using 5d finishing nails. Set aside for now.

cut and Assemblethe Wall FramesStart by cutting the sill plates (A) to length;

because they rest directly on

the ground, these timbers should be pressure-

treated pine rated for ground-contact use. Then

cut the other frame parts (B–D) to length. For the

top wall plates (D), mark the half-lap notches as

shown in the Half-Lap Joint Detail illustration,

opposite, and use the portable circular saw to

make multiple cuts in the notch portion. Break

away the waste material with a hammer, then use a

chisel to pare the surface flat and smooth. Note

that these end notches are the same for all four

top plates, but are oriented differently—set the

front and rear plates with the notch faceup and

the side plates with the notch facedown.

On each corner post (B), mark the locations for

the sill plates (A) and crossbeams (C). The vertical

distance between the two beams should equal the

height of the taller window assemblies. On a flat

surface, such as a patio or driveway, fit together

parts A–C of one side wall. Use the 12-inch-long

B

C

E

D

A

L

F

G

HJ

K

M

AA

BB

B

B

B

C

C

C

C

C

D

D

D

DD

D

F

F

F

HJ

K

L

Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing

3/8" lag screws6" long

Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels

(6' long)

Window frame of1 x 4" cedar

M

3" deck screws

3/8" lag screw6" long at

corner posts

B

No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints

3/8" lag screw6" long at corners

Window frames(1x4" cedar)

Concrete pier footing(12" diameter)

Post-base bracketembedded

in concrete pier

Note: Concrete piers optional.

BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES

ROOF ASSEMBLY

D

45o bevelon part M

Half-laps

M

45o

11/2"

31/2"

END VIEW DETAIL

An Outdoor Room1x4" cedar Wood frame

barn sash

3/4 x 3/4" cedar molding

#6 x 15/8" deck screw

5d finishing nails

WINDOW ASSEMBLY DETAIL

B

C

E

D

A

L

F

G

HJ

K

M

AA

BB

B

B

B

C

C

C

C

C

D

D

D

DD

D

F

F

F

HJ

K

L

Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing

3/8" lag screws6" long

Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels

(6' long)

Window frame of1 x 4" cedar

M

3" deck screws

3/8" lag screw6" long at

corner posts

B

No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints

3/8" lag screw6" long at corners

Window frames(1x4" cedar)

Concrete pier footing(12" diameter)

Post-base bracketembedded

in concrete pier

Note: Concrete piers optional.

BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES

ROOF ASSEMBLY

D

45o bevelon part M

Half-laps

M

45o

11/2"

31/2"

END VIEW DETAIL

do it guide

94 DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006

PaRTS [a]

Sill Plates [B]

Corner Posts

[C] Cross-beams

[D] Top Wall

Plates

[E]Center Beam

[F]Rafters

[G]Ridge Beam

[H]Purlins

[J]Collar Ties

[K]Ridge Blocks

[L] Roof

Braces

[M]Beveled

Roof Plates

THICKnESS 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 1 1⁄2

WIDTH 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2 3 1⁄2

LEnGTH 86 84 86 93 86 67 86 86 25* 10* 60 86

QUanTITY 3 4 6 4 1 4 1 2 2 2 2 2

Notes: All dimensions are in inches. *Lengths may vary; cut to fit.

drill bit to drill a 1⁄4-inch hole through

the posts and into the beam/sill ends at each joint

as shown. Then switch to a 3⁄8-inch bit and enlarge only the holes in the posts.

Tap a 3⁄8×6-inch lag screw

into each hole until it seats firmly, then tighten

with a ratchet driver. (Use this technique on the

roof frame joints, too.)

Set some scrap blocks of wood across the wall

trenches, then recruit a helper to lift the first wall

assembly into position; use ground stakes and

temporary braces to stabilize it. Repeat for the

second wall section, then use more lag screws to

connect the two walls with the rear sill and beams,

creating a U-shape structure. With at least two

helpers, remove the scrap blocks from the

trenches and lower the frame assembly into place;

check for level, plumb, and square, and attach the

sills to the post base brackets in the concrete

footings. Use 3-inch deck screws to attach the top

wall plates (D). Backfill the trenches with gravel.

cut and Assemblethe Roof FrameRather than precut all the parts for the roof frame,

work in stages so you can test-fit the pieces as you

go. Start by attaching the center beam (e) to the

front and rear top plates (D) with lag screws, just as

you connected the wall crossbeams to the posts.

Next, use the power miter saw to cut four

rafters (F) with 45-degree miters at the base ends;

leave the opposite ends

a few inches longer than listed. With a helper, set

two rafters up at the front gable end, with their

angled ends placed at the corners and the upper

ends slightly offset so they bypass each other.

Mark each rafter end along the upper edge of the

opposing rafter, then square-cut those ends and

cut half-lap notches as shown, similar to the top

wall plate ends. Refit and attach with 3-inch deck

screws to the top wall plate corners as shown.

Repeat for the rear rafters. With all the rafters in

place, fit and attach the ridge beam (g) and the

purlins (H) with lag screws as shown.

Using the smaller window assemblies for

spacing, cut and fit the collar ties (J) into the end

gables as shown; attach with 3-inch deck screws.

Then cut and attach the two ridge blocks (K) the

same way. Finally, cut a 45-degree miter on one

end of each roof brace (L) and do a test fit to mark

the lower end; cut to fit, and attach with lag screws

as shown.

With the frame complete, apply a coat of

exterior-grade clear sealer or semitransparent stain

if desired.

install Roofingand WindowsUse the table saw to rip two cedar 2×4s with a 45-

degree bevel cut to make the roof plates (M); use

3-inch deck screws to attach them to the top wall

plates, with the bevel facing out and aligned with

the rafters as shown. Starting at one end, place a

corrugated metal roofing panel along the rafter

B

C

E

D

A

L

F

G

HJ

K

M

AA

BB

B

B

B

C

C

C

C

C

D

D

D

DD

D

F

F

F

HJ

K

L

Preformed/galvanized cap/ridge flashing

3/8" lag screws6" long

Corrugated/galvanized roofing panels

(6' long)

Window frame of1 x 4" cedar

M

3" deck screws

3/8" lag screw6" long at

corner posts

B

No. 10 x 3" deck screws tosecure half-lap corner joints

3/8" lag screw6" long at corners

Window frames(1x4" cedar)

Concrete pier footing(12" diameter)

Post-base bracketembedded

in concrete pier

Note: Concrete piers optional.

BASE / WALL ASSEMBLIES

ROOF ASSEMBLY

D

45o bevelon part M

Half-laps

M

45o

11/2"

31/2"

END VIEW DETAIL

31/2"

13/4"

Make multiple saw cuts 13/4" deep

Break away waste pieces

Pare smooth with chisel

HALF-LAP JOINT DETAIL

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

edge, with a slight overhang and with its top edge

slightly below the peak of the ridge beam. Attach

with washer-head screws. Overlap the next panel

at least one full ridge, and fasten. Repeat to install

the remaining roof panels, then attach the cap

flashing along the ridge.

To install the window assemblies, simply fit

them into place and drive 1 5⁄8-inch deck screws

through the 1×4 stock into the crossbeams, top

wall plates, and/or collar ties. ß

1x4" cedar Wood framebarn sash

3/4 x 3/4" cedar molding

#6 x 15/8" deck screw

5d finishing nails

WINDOW ASSEMBLY DETAIL

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DO IT YOURSELF SUMMeR 2006 95