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MIX MATCH

best of design sPeCiAL 2015 >>>>>>>>>>

PLAYing WitH oPPosities And ContAminAtions

Art And fAsHion At tHe Home

of beAtriCe trussArdiYesterdAY And todAY 30 YeArs

WitH jAsPer morrison

design & fAsHion ennio CAPAsA

tALks About HimseLf

THE INTERNATIONALDESIGN ANDFURNISHING,TRENDSAND LIFESTYLE,ART ANDARCHITECTUREMAGAZINE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Livia Peraldo Matton lperaldo@hearst.it

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Bettina Rosso (managing editor, design and trends) - erosso@hearst.it

Rosaria Zucconi (managing editor, interiors and travel) - rzucconi@hearst.it

ART DIRECTOR

Valeria Settembre - vsettembre@hearst.it

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Murielle Bortolotto - mbortolotto@hearst.it

Paola Carimati (design and trends) - pcarimati@hearst.it

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CONTRIBUTORS

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di Sergio Abate & C, Kerryn Fischer, Marc Heldens, Arianna Lelli Mami, Laura Maggi,

Francesco Marchesi, Carlo Prada, Sonia Pravato, Tatjana Quax, Francesca Ruscelli,

Stefania Vasques, Studiopepe, TDR Translation Company

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Mattia Balsamini, Adriano Brusaferri, Fabrizio Cicconi/Living Inside,

Andrea Ferrari, Jeremias Morandell, Giorgio Possenti, Inga Powilleit, Matthieu Salvaing, Elsa Young/Frank Features/Living Inside, Verne, Max Zambelli

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FEDERAZIONE ITALIANAEDITORI GIORNALI

ISSN 1120-4400

ACCERTAMENTI DIFFUSIONE STAMPACERTIFICATO 7513 DEL 10/12/2012

MIX MATCH

best of design sPeCiAL 2015 >>>>>>>>>>

PLAYing WitH oPPosities And ContAminAtions

Art And fAsHion At tHe Home

of beAtriCe trussArdiYesterdAY And todAY 30 YeArs

WitH jAsPer morrison

design & fAsHion ennio CAPAsA

tALks About HimseLf

THE INTERNATIONALDESIGN ANDFURNISHING,TRENDSAND LIFESTYLE,ART ANDARCHITECTUREMAGAZINE

BEST OF DESIGN 2015_

THE INTERNATIONAL DESIGN AND FURNISHING, TRENDS AND LIFESTYLE, ART AND ARCHITECTURE MAGAZINE

SEPTEMBER 2015

COVER

Report on pg. 168photos by Matthieu Salvaingwords by Flavia GiorgiBEST OF DESIGN 2015

The best of production in 20 keywords

115

107

158

UPDATES+CULTURE

22 ELLEDECOR.IT

The months extras, to browse on line

25 PASSWORD

Freestyle: mix & match interiors

27 ELLE DECOR ANNIVERSARY

Seventh appointment: Design & Fashion

40 DESTINATION CATWALK

Designer catwalks: the staging for the most

recent catwalk shows

205 N.B.

The appointments: art, architecture, design

DESIGN+ARCHITECTURE

77 DESIGN AND LIGHT

In Amsterdam to discover the luminous installations

by Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta, aka Studio Drift

85 ICONS

Jasper Morrison, from objects to exhibitions:

he tells the story of his 30-year career

93 HI-TECH DESIGN

Technology to wear: special effects

for the latest-generation collections

99 ELLE DECOR MEETS

Beatrice Trussardi, contemporary art collector

and patron, in her Milan home

STYLE+DECOR

55 DECORSCOUTING

Curiosities, addresses, furniture, objects:

all to be discovered

elle decor19

68 mood

Memphis Now: 80s inspiration behind the trend

of the moment

107 dECoRATIoN

Design meets fashion in creative designer

Maurizio Pecoraros Milan store

115 lIfEsTylE

The workshop of Davide Diodovich, famous hair stylist

in the world of fashion

195 INsIdE dEsIgN

New for the home after the summer holidays

food+TRAvEl

123 AddREss

Florence: a bed & breakfast in a fourteenth-century

palazzo on the banks of the Arno:

new emotions between past and present

131 ITINERARy

Discovering Dublin, a capital undergoing a great revival

INTERIoRs

146 sAlENTo

In Galatina, design and art come together

in a Baroque building

158 IN mIlAN

In a period building, the residence of creative designer

Massimo Alba

168 PARIs

Shinsuke Kawaharas open space points

towards the Orient

176 IN bElgIum

In Ghent, contemporary decor and period

stuccos for an atmosphere with no nostalgia

186 mATERIAl EXPERIENCEs

The new coverings that give body and colour

to any surface

209 THE AddREssEs

99

131

77

176

146

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you CAN REAd EllE dECoR

Also oN youR TAblET, smARTPHoNE,

ANd KINdlE fIRE dEvICEs.

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YOU CAN ALSO BROWSE ELLE DECOR ITALIA ON YOUR TABLET, SMARTPHONE OR KINDLE FIRE DEVICEAVAILABLE FROM APP STORE, GOOGLE PLAY AND AMAZON APP-SHOP EVEN IN FULL ENGLISH VERSION

ELLE DECOR ITALIA IS ON LINE AT ELLEDECOR.IT:NEWS, VIDEOS, PHOTO GALLERIES, HOMES,

DESIGN, ARCHITECTURE, INTERIOR DECORATION

A special symbol marks the extra content on elledecor.itFollow the sign at the end of the articles.

Find them by simply opening the home page and clicking on magazine.

WHATS ON

Dont miss the 10/10

exhibition on in Paris until

03/10 and curated by

trendsetter Franois Bernard,

which celebrates the tenth

anniversary of the Moda

concept store (p. 74). The

experimental design work of

British designer duo Dunne &

Raby is featuring at the MAK

in Vienna until 04/10 (p. 221).

PROJECTS

Architect Kengo Kuma

reinterprets Zen style

in Beijing, restoring

a building as a tea house

in front of the Forbidden

City (p. 63). The new

Guggenheim Museum

in Helsinki, designed

by the French-Japanese

architects studio

Moreau Kusunoki (p. 68).

BEST OF DESIGN 2015

The best of international

design from 2015

featuring collections,

leading figures, brands

and trends in design.

Not forgetting the

anniversaries and designer

revivals, of course. All in

a trends special at elledecor.

it, online from the second

week of September.

PASSWORDA

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Sometimes we feel drawn to an object without knowing why. Just by instinct. A lamp with

a softly embracing light, a fabric thats pleasant to touch, a photograph that reminds us of something,

a vase with a new shape. We take it home and leave it in a corner without paying much attention

to it. Without realising that that particular piece is already a part of us. It says something about

a moment in our lives, its linked to a sentimental journey, and its akin to an idea of taste that

is different from all the others, because it represents our personality. Observing the sequence of rooms,

the different intensity of the light that passes through the spaces of our homes, looking at the

relationship between the furniture and the artworks on the walls, we understand that all these

factors go to make up the stage-set of our lives. It is made up of an interplay of stratifications:

of memories of places we have visited, of objects that conceal stories, of relationships with everything that inspires us from day to day. Like the homes that we describe in this issue, all with strong personalities

like the people who live in them. Places that play with contamination, oscillating between the present

and the past, between preserving memory and a desire for the future, between eclecticism and

rationality. Homes of creative people, designers, art directors and keen collectors: leaders in the world

of fashion, with the ability to shift their talent from a collection to interiors. Until they have defined

a domestic space that encapsulates the essence of home, in a continuous interplay of cross-references

between the intellect and the emotions.

fRee

Style

elle decor25

elle decor ANNIVerSArY

Increasingly more attentive to social phenomena and research into new technologies and materials, fashion becomes interwoven and contaminated with the world of design. To the extent that the term stylist has disappeared, replaced by the word designer. Author of a total project that starts with the maisons archives, redesigning the future of a fashion house: from the collection to the store, from the advertising campaign to books. A journey into style guided by two observers of excellence, Maria Luisa Frisa and Angelo Flaccavento. Plus a guest star, Ennio Capasa, who talks to us about his creative worldby Porzia Bergamasco

DESIGN &

elle decor27

Dragana KunjaDic

He manages to unite hand sewing with laser cutting, techno

and natural fabrics. The objective is to express the physicality

of the body, simplifying shapes, convinced that fashion has

to be seductive, but also superficial and deep at the same

time. Mixing classic Mediterranean culture and central

European modernism with a japanese sensitivity absorbed

in the atelier of Yohji Yamamoto, master and spiritual guide

during his formative years. an electric fusion that leads him

to work with international artists from music, art and films,

and gives an eclectic spirit to his brand, costume national.

In design, a study of aesthetics and method tend

to coincide. Does this happen in fashion projects too?

if we think of some relationships, like those between

shape, materials and meaning, there is coincidence.

THE DESIGNER / Ennio Capasa, loyal to the cult of less is more, is the biggest name in research: combining the Italian tailoring tradition with cutting-edge technology.

DESIGN & faShIoN

ENNIo CaPaSaPRofESSIoN/ Designer and creative director at costume national, the brand founded with his brother carlo in 1986 DaTE aND PLaCE of BIRTh/ 12/03/1960, Lecce NaTIoNaLITY/ italian EDUCaTIoN/ academy of the Fine arts, Milan DISTINGUIShING fEaTURES/ Minimal character and musical rhythm. His years of training, origins and his cultural references are told in the book un mondo nuovo (a new world) (Bompiani, 2014).

DESIGN & faShIoN

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faShIoN WIThoUT fRoNTIERS/CoSTUME NaTIoNaLArchitecture, art, design applied to technology and the world of music. The language of Ennio Capasa has multiple inspirations and it develops in several fields. From top, a photo of the latest Costume National campaign. Outfit inspired by a detail of panel with glass and metal portholes by Jean Prouv. Minimalism in black and white for the new Milan store in the Corso Como district. www.costumenational.com

Even in our work, in fact, we are seeking the right

combination of these components. But the basic difference

is in the life of what is created: a design object, for example,

is like a 150-year-old tortoise, while a garment is a dragonfly

that lives for just one season. This changes perspective,

perception and sensibility. What is certain is that a good

designer of objects and interiors and a good fashion designer

must however have a shared long-term objective: style

and recognisability, whatever the seasonal interpretation.

Experimentation at the service of creativity: how

do you tackle this transversal theme of design?

After so many years, the need to explore the unexplored

is the most exciting part of my job. Each time I feel as if I am

venturing into new territory, where I will discover something.

This implies finding someone who can follow you in the

challenge, even if the technologies are not yet immediately

available. Which entails a need for experimentation: you have

to adapt, rethink style codes and processes and it is exciting,

stimulating. Because you know that you are pushing the

paradigms of design stories just a little further and changing

the profile of the planet, peoples shapes. Obviously

it is fundamental that experimentation not be only theory

and this is possible when it assumes a capacity for bringing

the simplest, most immediate emotions alive.

Going back to more tangible aspects, accessories

in particular, which for you play an important role,

can they be compared to design objects, which have

their own life, independent of a collection?

In a certain sense, yes. Unlike a garment, which lives

through the movement of the body, shoes and bags prove

to be autonomous, with trend content but also with

a strength that goes beyond time...

When you design in fashion you are seeking ideal

aesthetics, an expression of your own creative language,

but also what you can feel in our moment in time,

peoples needs and aspirations...

In the nineties, when I started, my aim and that of my

generation was to break the barrier of the fashion diktat

and personalise it. Then, in more recent years, the

availability of information and the huge range of products

on offer have permitted to raise the average sensibility

of people, who today have the tools to interpret their body.

Fashion has turned consumers into their own stylists.

This is a marvellous achievement, because when an

individuals aesthetic perception grows, the quality of life

in general also grows. Creativity lies in every one of us,

shown by the great progress made in creative environments.

If you are sensitive enough to show yourself in the best,

most suitable light for who you are, you pay more attention

and respect to what is happening around you.

30elle decor

Creativity and innovation: this is the partnership that characterises

the evolution of design and fashion, accelerated to super-fast speed

by industrial development. In a relationship between the two disciplines

that has seen an interweaving of aesthetics, materials, functionality,

artisanship, technology, communication and ethics. Such a tight

relationship that the word designer now refers not just to interiors and

objects, but has also become, since the advent of prt-a-porter and

fashions becoming a mass product, a synonym of stylist. There is

no longer any need for this words existence, says Maria Luisa Frisa.

One of the most frequently recurring themes is the heritage of the

great historic brands and working with preservation and modernisation.

The creative director has the important task of preserving the maisons

signature trademark and taking it into the future, continues the director

of the degree course in Fashion Design and Multimedia Arts at the IUAV

in Venice. This is the role of curator and it has aged the word stylist,

because this new figure heads a team working to build an image that

unites a series of different disciplines. This is exactly what happened

at Valentino, with the arrival of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo

Piccioli, and Gucci, first with Frida Giannini and now with Alessandro

Michele. At Christian Dior, for womenswear, first with John Galliano

and now with Raf Simons, and so on. A gradual, slow shift that

has assigned a leading role to fashion in everyday life, influenced

by the most up-to-date social and cultural aspects, from pop

to a mixture of highs and lows. Over and above seasonal collections,

fashion needs to create spaces that reflect the brands aesthetics.

INSIDE FASHION / Maria Luisa Frisa tells us how haute couture has changed. Angelo Flaccavento explains the aesthetics of contamination

DESIGN & faShIoN

INTERIoR DRESSING/MaRNI In shots by the English-American photographer Jackie Nickerson, the woman imagined by Consuelo Castiglioni, founder and creative director at Marni (since 2012 part of Renzo Rossos holding OTB), wears her style with nonchalance. She is interested more in finding an aesthetic relationship with the interiors than in showing off her body. In the photos from this campaign (the very first for the brand), produced with the artistic direction of Giovanni Bianco & GB65, the clothes blend with the surroundings and their elements: from the rug to the table. Furnishings as a natural follow-on for a look. www.marni.com

(continued on page 38)

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MALE fEMALE/GIVENCHY Contrasts are the expressive base for work

by Riccardo Tisci, creative director at this maison since 2005 and who this year tackles the theme of gender identity. Swopping and changing, male to female, tailoring cuts, materials, details, romantic

sensibility and distant worlds. From the man in a suit to the male handbag, decorated like a rug,

that turns into a pochette. www.givenchy.com

3D EffECT/ISSEY MIYAKE Technological research as a form of expression. Yoshiyuki Miyamae, director of the womenswear line since 2011, has developed a pleating technique that uses the steam stretch 3D method. Pre-pleated stretch fibres are inserted into the weft, their composition software-defined. The fabric is then steamed to give it very marked, stiff 3D structures. www.isseymiyake.com

ECO MOOD/ ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA For the mens couture collection, Stefano Pilati imagines a fair trade fashion that focuses on protecting nature, for harmonious coexistence with the environment. The result is a green look and a line of outfits made from noble, sustainable fibres, combined with surface treatments in recycled plastic. For an aware eco-friendly mood. www.zegna.com

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NEW haUTE CoUTURE/DIoR Raf Simons arrival in 2012 as artistic director for this Parisian maisons womenswear collections aroused the curiosity of film director Frdric Tcheng. The docu-movie Dior and I reveals what happens backstage during the first haute couture collection by this Belgian designer: an incursion into his creative process that shows painstaking research into the archives, professionals working as a team and innovation. Proving that the heritage of a legendary brand must keep up with tradition and contemporaneity in order to continue. www.dior.com

hIGh aND LoW/GUCCI The streets as runways and vice versa. This Florentines fashion houses new creative director, Alessandro Michele, with artistic director Chris Simmonds, photographer Glen Luchford and designer Joe McKenna, devised this seasons advertising campaign to be all about the imperfection of everyday life. On the urban scene, high and low, chic and pop meet up. And elegance travels on the underground. www.gucci.com

PRIMoRDIaL STYLE/RICK oWENS Working in the fashion business means constantly looking ahead. Whereas Californian Rick Owens chooses the past. A raw, primitive mood that adds a noticeable touch to both the clothing collections, in untreated materials worked using natural artisan methods, and also the design of archetype-furniture: oversize chairs for eccentric collectors with moose antlers as their backs. www.rickowens.eu

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DESIGN & faShIoN

DIGITaL PRINTS/CoUNTY of MILaNThe advent of new photographic reproduction technologies is the source of inspiration and DNA of the collection by designer-dj Marcelo Burlon. For a street style, from uber-decorated sweats to shaded effect ponchos, based on the contrast between digital prints that seem to be made up of millions of pixels and total-black looks. www.marceloburlon.eu

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Starting with the stores, increasingly similar to art galleries, through

to the runway scenery, explains Maria Luisa Frisa. In a true total

project. The return of the dominating role of the new haute couture

on the scene is due precisely to this game of give and take between

past and future. But also to the invention of new aesthetics

and increasingly more refined visual communication in response to the

global diffusion of clothing. A phenomenon that follows the wake of

what is also happening in the world of design, projected at defending

the difference between serial and artisan production. Research

and innovation are also highlighted by the transversal use of materials

and technologies that lead to new genres and styles. It all fluctuates

so quickly, says Angelo Flaccavento, Italian and international fashion

journalist. Languages have merged and contaminations, such

as techno wear in the mens collections, is increasingly more frequent.

And these are no longer futuristic experiments, but the creation

of new aesthetics born out of the latest technical evolutions.

Technology has definitely acted as a driver for creativity, starting with

the world of digital prints: Where, however, results differ depending

on a necessary quality of the fabrics. Research and innovation have

always been the territory of the big fashion houses and are now

the focus of new names who emerge season after season, creating

independent niches. Innovation, especially in the world of textiles,

calls for time and resources and youngsters are possibly the ones

who dedicate more energy to these, highlights Flacavento, aware

of emerging authors. And this is an optimum signal for the future.

ToTaL PRoJECT/PRaDaPrada blazes a trail with intersections between fashion, technology, communication and visual arts. And every occasion, from advertising to publication of a book, has the aim of creating a universe with a very precise identity. A total project that starts with the last campaign by Steven Meisel and sketches for the Raw Eyewear line and follows through to the Pradasphere exhibition: a journey into the story of the brand that has remained coherent since 1913. www.prada.com

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FENDI/ Fendi Haute Fourrure 2015/16 parades to the notes of Debussys Prlude laprs-midi dun faune. The event took place in the Thtre des Champs-lyses. As a background, creative director Karl Lagerfeld (left) chose a gigantic photo of a painting by Giorgio de Chirico depicting one of the Eur buildings where the Rome-based fashion house has its headquarters.GE

TTy im

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DESTINATION cATwAlk

DESIGNER cATwAlkSby Carlo Prada

From paintings by De Chirico to modernist architecture. The staging for the most recent

catwalk shows conveys a Fashion Houses soul. Inspired by art, botanics and architecture.

Extending the image of a collection

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DESTINATION cATwAlk

INTERIOR DESIGN/ Temporary sets re-evoke the past or trace the future. From projects designed by

Rem Koolhaas to 30s sets in the Grand Palais

cHANEl/ set inside the Grand Palais, the Haute Couture FW 2015/16 collection was presented in an old-style casino. in the centre, the fashion houses ViP guests were seated at card tables and slot machines. Around them, models paraded in suits and evening dresses with asymmetrical cuts. 1930s atmospheres contrasted with the garments, made using advanced tailoring techniques.

PRADA/ The mens ss 2016 fashion show

took place in a set that broke the boundaries between ceiling and

floor. Conceived by the studio of Dutchman

Rem Koolhaas, it was made from plastic

panels hanging down from above. The fibreglass and

polycarbonate surfaces above circular seating

transformed proportions and changed the

perception of space.

AGOsTiNO OsiO PRADA - OLiVER sAiLLANT

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DESTINATION cATwAlk

ART INSPIRATION/ A surreal picture gallery, where paintings become garments and brushstrokes of colour decorate the set. The artworks take to the stage and parade with the models

DIOR/ The muse Rodin in Paris was transformed into an exceptional stage for the Dior Haute Couture FW 2015/16 show. in the gardens, creative director Raf simons had a temporary pavilion built, which was covered in glass panels painted using the pointillist technique dear to painters like seurat, signac and Pissarro. The overall effect was a fantastical place in which the story of art could be relived in a modern day version.

VIkTOR&ROlF/ For the Haute Couture FW 2015 season, Viktor Horsting and Rolf snoeren created a collection of wearable paintings, displayed significantly in the

spaces of the Palais de Tokyo, the contemporary art museum in Paris. in recognition of the garments artistic merit, a piece was purchased by the famous collector Han

Nefkens, which will be donated to the Boijmans Van Beuningen museum in Rotterdam. DiOR - TEAm PETER sTiGTER

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GRGOiRE ViEiLLE

DESTINATION cATwAlk

lOuIS VuITTON/ Architecture, music and tailoring are combined in the Cruise 2016 collection by the maison helmed by Nicolas Ghesquire. A catwalk show held in the futuristic home of actor Bob Hope in Palm springs, designed by the modernist master John Lautner, where beneath the spectacular concrete vault, the seating breaks out into the garden overlooking the city. Glass speakers and mirrored stools complete the set.

MODERNIST ARCHITECTURE/ The must of the moment is an original location. Better still if ultra exclusive, like a villa

in the hills of Palm Springs designed by a master of design

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DESTINATION cATwAlk

DiOR - GETTy imAGEs

mAISON mARGIElA/ Pure lines and classicism, decoration and high-tech details distinguished the set for the artisanal FW collection by maison martin margiela. inside the salon dHonneur of the Grand Palais, the viewers gaze was focused on garments paraded along a metal-effect catwalk. From above, two rows of industrial spotlights stood out against a neutral background.

MINIMAL ORGANIC/ The setting for the catwalk show should suggest the spirit of a collection, or underline, by contrast, the soul of a brand: fluid and creative, essential and conceptual

PIERRE cARDIN AND DIOR/ Perched on the cliffs of Thoule-sur-mer in Cannes, Palais Bulles purchased in 1992 by Pierre Cardin provided the setting for the Cruise Collection 2016 by Christian Dior. in the organic architectural masterpiece designed by Finnish Antti Lovag, the set was a view of the islands of Lerino and the landscape of the Cte dAzur framed by enormous portholes.

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DESTINATION cATwAlk

FiLiPPO FiOR - GETTy imAGEs

PAul SmITH/ simplicity and non-conformism with a romantic twist provided the theme for the mens ss 2015 collection by Paul smith, set in the Borse du Commerce in Paris, transformed for the occasion into a winter garden by Belgian floral designer Thierry Boutemy. The platform on which the models paraded was a real floral installation, with potted plants that echoed the botanical inspiration of the garments.

GREEN MOOD / Thierry Boutemy is the guru of fashion houses most sought-after botanical installations. Romantic or decadent, primordial and fantastical. The motto is Green Inspiration

VIONNET/ set inside the Centre George Pompidou,

transformed into a wild forest, the FW 2015 collection by

Vionnet was presented beneath a giant liana. The designer

again was Thierry Boutemy, whom creative director Goga

Ashkenazi asked to make a set with the power of natural

surroundings, in line with the theme of the collection.

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DESTINATION cATwAlk

The inspiration takes multiple forms, further evidence of the interweaving between the world of fashion and other fields of creativity. All this translates into an outfitting project that is not confined to just the set: it starts with the choice of location a historical building in Paris, a theatre in London, a museum in milan, a famous structure in New york right down to actually having a place specially built. Like a large yet temporary pavilion, to be assembled and dismantled in the space of one day: the location of a fashion show is therefore one of the aspects that contribute to the representation of a collection. A way to communicate that is more and more often entrusted to the artistic director of the fashion house, except in rare exceptions: Dutch starchitect Rem Koolhaas who designs for Prada, the Belgian florist designer Thierry Boutemy, responsible for the green design on the runways of Vionnet and Paul smith. For labels like Dior, Fendi and Chanel, however, the last word goes to their creative spirits, Raf simons and Karl Lagerfeld, while the eclectic Viktor&Rolf exhibit themselves in first person, as authors and stars of a real catwalk performance. Today, like never before in an age in which the message goes live and the ten minutes of a runway show are visible online conveying the soul of a fashion house must be the fruit of a complete project, with attention to detail. The artistic gesture of Dior is an aspect that has always inspired me, confirms Raf simons, speaking about the event conceived for Haute Couture FW 2015/16 inside the muse Rodin, in the heart of Paris. The historical impact of tradition is reinterpreted in todays world. Thats what makes the collection modern. The location, in many ways, recalls a modernist church, the ideal place in which all these elements can come together. The set is therefore inextricably linked to the garments on the catwalk, like the choreography and the music, no longer just background, but often pumped out from a PA system worthy of a rock concert. The same goes for Louis Vuitton, which picked the villa of the actor Bob Hope, in Palm springs, futuristic icon designed by the modernist master John Lautner, as the location for its Cruise collection 2016. While Chanel, to present its Haute Couture FW 2015/16 collection, built a casino inside the Grand Palais. so, while actors and ViPs had a flutter, immersed in a bygone atmosphere, the models nodded to the 21st century with their neo-deco hairdos and graphic silhouettes. Nature provides inspiration also for high impact stage design, to the point where there are those who opt for the creations of the flower guru from Brussels Thierry Boutemy, author of the set for Vionnets FW 2015, which featured cascades of flowers exploding from a huge pergola. An installation that takes inspiration from endless energy and constant transformation. sublime and at the same time terrifying, explains the creative director Goga Ashkenazi, underlining the fusion between the theme of the collection and the set. Others see art as their muse, like in the case of Fendi Haute Fourrure 2015/16, a show devoted to furs set inside the Thtre des Champs-lyses. The models emerged from a giant painting by De Chirico, featuring the metaphysical Eur buildings, where the Fashion House has its headquarters. The artwork thus reinforced the link between the label and the eternal city, between traditional tailoring, innovation and culture. With the function of conveying the visionary spirit and the glamour of fashion from the catwalk to the entire world.

PHIlIPP PlEIN/ A postmodern and futuristic set in milans concert venue social music City. This was the striking location for Pleinpunk FW 2016, fashion show by the designer from munich. in the centre of the catwalk, sixty-five cars completely painted in gold and silver were destroyed live, creating the sensation of being part of a contemporary art performance.

SPECTACLE/ Its just a handful of minutes, but one of essential importance. Each catwalk show must concentrate the fruit of months of work into a short space of time. And so the setting becomes an instrument to amplify the message

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KOJIFUJII/NACASA & PARTNERS INC.

Beijing, China. The ancient Siheyuan-style tea house, built overlooking the Forbidden City, gets a makeover. The new look created by architect Kengo Kuma respects and reinterprets Zen style. The walls have been cleverly reinvented, covered in light blue translucent polycarbonate panels, while the stalactite-effect ceiling lets light lter in and conjures up a contemporary Chinese mood. Traditional rugs on the oors, low lacquered tables and cushions in woven bre. The art of tea is served. kkaa.co.jp elledecor.it

New micro and macro

architectures, birthday celebrations and design gems to be worn or tucked away in your bag

by Bettina Rosso and Murielle Bortolotto

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Gerhardt Kellermann

8.5 cm stiletto heel with incorporated metal ball: Spheres by roger Vivier are in leather with prismick design, a must-have for going dancing, or for never passing unobserved. www.rogervivier.com

Pauline deltour designs the Fine collection: multitasking objects that combine renement and functionality. Conceived for everyday use, to carry in your handbag, they recall classic compact makeup but are actually another thing entirely. Wi-Fi speakers, credit card holder/mirror, key ring/usb and a portable battery charger, in ultra-light metalized aluminium, from 18. www.lexon-design.com

Iconic buildings of the 20th century by the great masters turn

miniature for interiors. handmade in plaster by brothers robert

and Gavin Paisley, they are enhanced with

metal inserts. here, a table version of the Bauhaus in

dessau, designed by Walter Gropius in 1925: cm 18x7.5x27h at 175.

www.chiselandmouse.com

Blush pink for the lucky rug by Karin an rijlaarsdam for danskina. In pure new Zealander

wool, it is a succession of knots that make a decorative pattern. the fringes give it a soft

chic allure. Five colour variations, cm 300x300, from 550 per m2. www.danskina.com

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decorscouting

GREEN ATTITUDE WITH PRECIOUS METAL ACCENTS, GREEN IS A WINNER IN THE HOME

A breath of fresh air for interiors, Virginia creeper leaves in copper, for indoors/outdoors, Vertical Green by De Castelli, www.decastelli.it. In matt brass the Brass 95 lamp by Paola Navone for Gervasoni, cm 80 diam. at 389, www.gervasoni1882.it; below, Lochness cabinet with two matt lacquered doors and wooden tray on top, by Piero Lissoni for Cappellini, www.cappellini.it. The unmistakable Panton Chair, cult object by Vitra, in a new shade of green, 239, www.vitra.com, and in the centre, Sfera sculpture table by Ron Gilad for Molteni&C, geometry applied to steel with pewter or brass nish and top in glass, www.molteni.it. On the table top, Pharaohs vases by Giorgia Zanellato for the Secondome gallery, www.secondome.biz; left, with seat in leather, frame in coppered iron, Etah by Paola Navone for Baxter, www.baxter.it. And, in the background, Tarassaco, large leaf rug in Tibetan wool by Lorenzo Palmeri for Nodus. www.nodusrug.it

DECORSCOUTING

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Happy birthday Tufty-Time. Ten years have passed since the launch of the seating system, one of B&B Italias best sellers, designed by Patricia Urquiola, which combines versatility and comfort. To mark the occasion,

the Novedrate-based brand presents the new version, Tufty-Time 15 (in purple) with an innovative solution for the fabric version: the upholstery is divided into large squares and kick pleats, conceived to dress the

modular design in all of its guises. Below, the 2007 advertising campaign by Saatchi&Saatchi. www.bebitalia.it

The French-Japanese architectural studio Moreau Kusunoki, based in Paris, wins the competition to design the new Guggenheim in Helsinki. Art in the City, the museums name, will be home to 21st century collections and will stand in a strategic location along the harbour, with a sculptural tower and 9 different pavilions connected to one another. www.designguggenheimhelsinki.org elledecor.it

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decorscouting

PORTRAIT KEN SCOTT

UGO M

ULAS

Ken Scott, here pictured by Ugo Mulas, is famous for revolutionising oral style with his now cult colourful micro-maxi patterns on fashion and interior textiles. The foundation he created,

with the Compagnia del Tabacco, offers the Galla Placidia fabric, which in 1969 decorated his restaurant Eats & Drinks in Milan. Today its on limited edition trays and coasters, from the Triennale

bookstore for the Arts and Foods exhibition. www.compagniadeltabacco.it, www.kenscott.it

Essential design for the Counterbalance lamp by Daniel Rybakken for Luceplan, this year with an upgrade: no longer just a wall or spot light version but also a oor lamp, with adjustable height and swivel reector. Body in aluminium, base in zinc, all strictly black, and LED light source with dimmer. Cm 24x14.7x170h, 567. www.luceplan.com

The rst kids collection by Andrea Marcante and Adelaide Testa (from Studio UdA in Turin) is called

Cose da Bocia. Ultra eco-friendly furniture that adapts to growing children, like the Taulin table in

coloured mdf and frame in lacquered tubular metal that is height adjustable (from cm 47.5 to 70) and can stretch with the kids. www.cosedabocia.com

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decorscouting

hannah anthonysz

a nugget that shines night and day thanks to the textured surface, 35 metres long, made up of a multitude of golden triangles. Its the Goud souk in Beverwijk, in the netherlands, the ultra-luxe version of the bazaar for gold dealers and jewellers held along Goldstreet. Inside, 29 jewellery shops are surrounded by shiny black floors and ceilings to best reflect the splendour of their gold and gemstones. a design by Rotterdam-based studio Liong Lie. www.lionglie.com elledecor.it

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decorscouting

From 3/09 to 3/10 Moda, the Parisian concept

store dedicated to ultra design, celebrates its rst 10 years with the

10/10 exhibition in partnership with Maison

& Objet. The project by trendsetter Franois Bernard enchants and

amazes: one of the works on display includes MiniMondo, a 3D photo that transforms visitors

into ber-realistic statues. www.moda-int.com

elledecor.it

Debuting at Designjunction (London, 24-27 September) is the Cantilever paper table, a design by Forsythe +

MacAllen for Molo, to be added to the Soft collection. In honeycomb

paper, it expands with one simple gesture to transform into different types

of table thanks to modules (cm 70) that connect using handy magnets.

www.molodesign.com

Triple Anatomik Ring by Delna Delettrez, daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi and creative jewellery designer with workshop in Romes Via del Governo Vecchio. The ring from the latest collection is studded with diamonds, sapphires and rubies, taking inspiration from surreal and conceptual art for creations to be worn with attitude. www.delnadelettrez.it

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decorscouting

mood

Amidst cult pieces and new arrivals. Left, glossy/matt contrasts for the Pass-Word storage unit by Dante Bonuccelli for Molteni&C

(4,304); Oceanic lamp by Memphis Milano, designed by Michele De Lucchi in 1981 (997). Next to the column covered with Skadi

paper by Pierre Frey (10 m roll, 81), mm3 chair by Mario Milana, with leather cushions. In the middle, in the foreground, Contrast Table

by BCXSY, from Rossana Orlandi, in the background on the wall, Squares checked wallpaper by Erica Wakerly (10 m roll, 98); above

the ladder, Pipe sofa by Sebastian Herkner for Moroso. Next to the Mesa table, with pietra serena stone base and slate top, designed

by Lella and Massimo Vignelli in 1985 for Poltrona Frau, red Pilastro stool designed by Ettore Sottsass in 2004, reissued by Kartell,

and right, Guest chair by Rodolfo Dordoni for Poliform (1,359). On the table, metal tablet holder by Just99, bookends by BBT Creative,

black Base vase and red Cuppino cup by Paola C. Hanging, Corners shelf, from Rossana Orlandi. Set created by Spazio65, Milan.

memphis now

by Arianna Lelli Mami and Chiara Di Pinto/Studiopepephotos by Jeremias Morandell - in collaboration with Sonia Pravato

Precise volumes, strong colours, micro textures and clear 80s

inspiration for the boldest trend of the moment. A creative

blend of objects, from yesterday and today, remembering Sottsass

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Left, rounded lines for the Fonte

70 pedestal washbasin by Giulio

Cappellini for Ceramica Flaminia

(1,190) and the Cross Blossom

ottoman upholstered in wool felt

by Kirkby Design (cm 140h,

80/m). On the wall, with Skadi

wallpaper by Pierre Frey,

Corners shelves by Kyuhyung

Cho, from Rossana Orlandi;

Shape Up lamp by Roll & Hill. In

the middle, in the foreground,

Panda table by Paola Navone for

Cappellini, covered by pattern

by Abet Laminati (from 2,586);

above, one on top of the other,

Bejahung bowl by AQQ and

white/blue vase by Ettore

Sottsass for Bitossi, by Spazio

900, and Gambone tray by

Aldo Cibic for Paola C., with

vase by Ferm Living and plaster

mouth by Fumagalli & Dossi.

Behind, Sarraute table

with yellow legs by AQQ, in

background, Apparel screen by

Vera&Kyte for Opinion Ciatti,

from Entratalibera. Right, Pilot

Chair by Barber & Osgerby

for Knoll (2,537), with 8-bit

fabric cushion by Kirkby

Design; behind, Kora vase by

Studiopepe for Darkroom and

Amuleto lamp by Alessandro

Mendini for Ramun, Squares

wallpaper by Erica Wakerly.

mood

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Left, cult Bacterio pattern,

designed in 1978 by Ettore

Sottsass for Abet Laminati;

hanging, a plaster capital

by Fumagalli & Dossi

(cm 26x21h, approx. 112)

with Cuore vase in red

biscuit, limited edition by

Studiopepe. On the

Mezzanino coffee tables

by Mist-o for Mogg, in

the two versions in white

lacquered wood and concrete

finish (from cm 90x90x35h,

1,153), left, marble and

copper Clochette lamp by

Zpstudio (380), concrete

Landmarks oval bowl by

Klemens Schillinger and,

behind, black ash centrepiece

from the Raction Potique

collection by Jaime Hayon for

Cassina (390). Right, Shining

mirror by Christophe de la

Fontaine for Dante-Goods

and Bads (195), Antenna,

oak carving by Camilla Lw,

from Galleria Belmacz

(2,000), and painted wooden

Fundamental Lamp by

Brendan Timmins for BBT

Creative. Hanging on the wall,

Corners shelf by Kyuhyung

Cho, from Rossana Orlandi.

ADDRESSES ON PG. 209

DESIGN AND LIGHT

ELEcTrIc FLOWErby Tatjana Quax - photos by Inga Powilleit

words by Paola Carimati

In Amsterdam, we meet Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta,

aka Studio Drift. To discover their installations: luminous

choreographies inspired by nature

Dutch designers Ralph

Nauta and Lonneke

Gordijn pictured

on the gallery of the

Rijksmuseum

in Amsterdam. On the

ceiling, the dance of

the silk Shylight lamps.

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DESIGN AND LIGHT

Left, a close up of the electric-flower-lamp Shylight: the shape

recalls a flower made of fabric which opens up in a rhythmic and

natural movement. Right, staff at Studio Drift working on the prototype

of the piece. The special features of this project include the shade,

which is hand sewn, and the software, designed specifically to control

the light and movement intensity (programmable from iPad and iPhone).

Above, two staff members

from the Dutch studio engaged

in the construction of the Flylight

lamp. Right, the hands of the

team who hand sew the shade

of the Shylight lamp: the rhythm

of the movement accentuates

the elegance of the natural silk.

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DESIGN AND LIGHT

Ralph Nauta and Lonneke Gordijn pictured while

picking dandelions: last year alone they picked 15,000.

Below, the grid structure of Fragile Future, the site-specific

light installation designed by the duo. Each piece

is unique and capable of interacting with different settings.

Above, the dandelion head

lights created for the installation

Fragile Future. Painstaking

work: the white seeds are set

around each LED light.

Below, Glass Bell for Dandelight,

the table lamp on sale online

from the Studio Drift website.

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DESIGN AND LIGHT

The story of Drift has all the trappings of a modern fairytale: Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta are

beautiful and young (born 1980 and 1978 respectively), with a diploma from the Design Academy

in Eindhoven, a love story, a friendship and a 550 m2 studio on the water of Amsterdam. We

are north of the city, in an eclectic district where its nice to cycle and wander around amidst chocolate

fab labs and video makers, heavy industries and the outpost of Droog Design, says Lonneke,

with her neo hippy look and romantic spirit, like her thesis project. When I discussed it in 2005, everyone

thought I was mad. I can say today that I have built our profession on that work. The designer refers to

Fragile Future, a modular structure on which flowers of light bloom, similar to dandelions. Last year

we collected about 15,000. We take the seeds from each dandelion, which we glue around LED lights.

Nature and artifice come together in this micro-architecture, created on an ad hoc basis for different

spaces: Fragile Future vibrates both in the atrium of a Brazilian hospital as well as in the room of an Israeli

gallery. Every installation is unique, just like the flower and the breeze that transports those seeds,

the designer explains. And movement is the key to all work by Studio Drift, a simple way to emotionally

interact with a vast public. Because movement arouses emotions, Lonneke reminds us and

if you then take inspiration from the simplicity of nature, the effect is decidedly breathtaking. A little

like what happens when you look at the dance of the Shylight lamps at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam,

which give light by opening up their silk petals, and the site-specific installations Flylights, which thanks

to light management software simulate the flight of flocks of birds in the sky. Everything in nature moves,

grows, changes: mutation is essential to life, points out Ralph. For Glasstress, the exhibition

by Adriano Berengo in Palazzo Franchetti for the 56th Venice Biennale, we created In 20 Steps, a tribute

to mans eternal desire to fly. Because the imagination knows no bounds. www.studiodrift.com

Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph Nauta at the desk of their studio (a 550 m2 north of Amsterdam)

while they discuss their latest project. It is a design for the Swiss bridge Kappelbrcke in Lucerne

for 2016: another team job which includes interaction and lighting design (using software).

Sensibility, intelligence and an ability to experiment are the values shared by Lonneke Gordijn and Ralph

Nauta from Studio Drift: a multi-disciplinary team

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JASPER MORRISON

by Laura Maggi - portrait by Mattia Balsamini

A lifetimes projects collected in A Book of Things, a retrospective

running in Belgium, his objects of success. With great understatement,

this British designer talks about his thirty plus years of career

Jasper Morrison in the Flos Professional Space in Milan. Alongside, his latest creation: the Superloon lamp, which looks like

a huge lens for capturing light. A project born out of a desire to experiment the use of Edge Led Lighting Technology.

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I dont have any special favourite projects, excluding any is always painful. Milestones: Hal chair, KnifeForkSpoon cutlery and Orla sofa

From top, two views of the

80!Molteni celebratory exhibition,

curated in 2015 by the designer

at the Gallery of Modern Art

in Milan. Utensil Family, kitchen

accessories designed for Alessi.

Daybed and bedside table The

Crate Series, presented at the

London Design Festival 2014.

Orla armchair for Cappellini, Alfi

chair for Emeco and, in black,

Hal chair designed for Vitra.

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The spectacular staircase at the

Museum of Decorative Arts in

Bordeaux, venue for the Jasper

Morrison au muse exhibition in

2009. The central vacuum is

filled by Glo-Ball hanging lamp,

designed for Flos in 1998.

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The term Super Normal was borrowed from Naoto Fukasawa by Jasper Morrison,

designer, book writer and exhibition curator (first and foremost of his own solos)

in 2006 to describe what I had been trying to achieve all these years, a perfect

summary of what design should be, now more than ever. Since the eighties,

Morrison has designed projects in which shape and function co-exist in clean-cut,

relaxed aesthetics, as if their design process were totally natural. And he revealed

to us what The Good Life is all about, in other words a perception of normality,

the title of his book published in 2014. We meet him in Milan, in the Flos

Professional Space, which he designed in 2005. What does it feel like to be

here ten years later? How do you feel? Do you mean in my life? I have to say

that I have worked a great deal. I am happy to still be a part of the Salone del

Mobile, where I debuted thirty six years ago. And this showroom shows no signs

of ageing either. What are the most important things you have done? The

ones you cannot do without? I dont really have any special favourites, excluding

any is always painful so it is more a collective choice. Even if I do have milestones

such as Hal chair for Vitra, a reworking of the shell chair, KnifeForkSpoon,

the Alessi cutlery and Orla sofa for Cappellini. Your first important retrospective

exhibition is currently showing at the Grand-Hornu museum in Belgium.

You have called it Thingness. Why? I wanted to define the essence of things,

their character, something which is very difficult to narrate. It is easy to see

the shape of things, but not their substance. I am the star of the show, thats true,

but also curator with Michel Charlot, a qualified industrial designer. Together

we have designed a structure that allows display of objects and includes photos

and drawings according to a chronological criterion. Each set represents a decade,

starting with the eighties. This exhibition will then move to Zurich in February

2016, to the Museum fr Gestaltung. You have just published A Book of Things,

which is, however, not just a book of things. It is you speaking in the first

person. Telling your biography through things? In the beginning there

was no definite concept, it took shape as it happened, from the many photos.

The danger of books dedicated to design is that they look like product catalogues.

Here, on the other hand, we are talking about the relationships that come about

with people when you develop the project for an object. And I cannot but recall

the names of people who have been important for me, such as the English

designer James Irvine, unfortunately no longer with us, Rolf Fehlbaum, the Vitra

guru, Giulio Cappellini and Piero Gandini, president of Flos. It was for Flos that

you designed Superloon, a lamp that looks like a huge lens for capturing

the light. Like the parabolic mirror that, it is said, Archimedes used

in Syracuse to set fire to the Roman ships. Where did you start from? The

project actually started two years ago with a proposal by Gandini for application

of a new technology. He showed me an LED ring that made the light converge

into the centre, with an all-pervading quality. In the beginning all we had was a disc:

I asked Piero to hold it up and he became a living prototype. It was perfect! But

we really needed to find an alternative. So I studied a supporting structure to fix

the disc to with an electronic jack. You have designed many individual objects

and few interiors. But in 2014, you took part in the installation A Place

Called Home in Trafalgar Square. What is your idea of home? One example

is the showroom over my studio in London: it is my idea of home and it is the

testing bench for furnishings and accessories. I see how they interact, to create

the right atmosphere for living and working. A home is not just a society of people,

it is also a society of things. (A Book of Things, published by Lars Mller

Publishers, will be presented this September during the London Design Festival

2015 at the Jasper Morrison Shop in a special installation that includes the new

Alfi chair for Emeco). www.jaspermorrison.com, www.flos.com

He has introduced us to everyday objects with great aesthetic simplicity and high functional value. And he has accustomed us to a design philosophy of the Super Normal, the adjective/name that summarises his work

The cover of the recently

published book, a collection

of thirty years of articles

and accessories created

by this British designer. Plus

installations, international

exhibitions and anecdotes

told by Morrison himself.

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HI-TECH DESIGN

TECHNOLOGY TO WEAR

by Paola Carimati

Special effects for the latest-generation collections:

fashion designers let their imaginations run wild and

invent a new way of dressing. Increasingly interactive

LED lights, which can also be controlled using

an iPhone app, for Francesca Rosella and Ryan

Genzs dress for CuteCircuit. www.cutecircuit.com

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HI-TECH DESIGN

Left, on the cover of Vulnicura, Bjrks latest

album, the interactive dress by Maiko Takeda, www.

maikotakeda.com. Above, Smoke Dress by Anouk

Wipprecht with Aduen Darriba, www.anoukwipprecht.

nl. Below, Nixie, a drone that can be worn as a bracelet,

winner of the Intel Make it Wearable Challenge.

Psychedelic fabrics and colourful LEDs design spectacularly bright outfits: this is the new techno couture style

Left, 24,000 pixels

for the Galaxy dress

by CuteCircuit. Right,

3D print honeycomb

pattern for Honey

Shoes by Sebastian

Errazuriz, www.

meetsebastian.com.

Below, Sensory Fiction,

the wearable e-book

that transmits sensory

impulses to the reader,

www.iq.intel.com

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HI-TECH DESIGN

The Dutch fashion designer

Iris Van Herpen (born in

1984), in collaboration with

the MIT Media Lab in Boston

and Materialize, has created

the Voltage collection:

garments made from flexible,

interactive fabric produced

using 3D printing techniques.

www.irisvanherpen.com

Synthetic fibres that absorb colour and ultra-futuristic fabrics that release clouds of smoke,

drones that can be worn as bracelets and dresses that give off light beams: the liaison

between fashion and technology is enriched with new influences from engineering, biology

and emotional intelligence. The experiments carried out over the past five years have

produced innovative collections which, despite using cold technologies, have resulted in

soft, feminine outfits, with unexpected spectacular consequences. That world made up

of electrical circuits and software came out of the FabLabs and today is not only parading

down the catwalks at fashion weeks around the world, but is also dressing pop stars

and flaunting itself on the stage at concerts. The special effects created for costumes (worn

by Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Christina Aguilera and Katy Perry for their latest performances) are

not the result of diva-like whims, but are often generated in the research centres of the MIT

Media Lab in Boston or at prestigious universities. The name of Maiko Takeda stands out

from those of recently-graduated fashion designers, one of the young talents most highly-

regarded for her creative and research skills. Born in Tokyo in 1986, she first attended

the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and then the Royal College of Art

in London. I finished studying in 2013 and at the same time I set up my studio, says the

creative. A career that in just two years has boasted valuable collaborations, such as those

with designers Philip Treacy, Issey Miyake and the singer Bjrk. For the cover of her latest

album, entitled Vulnicura, the Icelandic musician asked Takeda to design a female figure

with great graphic impact. And, with the experience gained from her studies behind her,

she came up with a spindly creature, wearing Atmospheric Reentry, a dress that creates

mysterious halos of colour, apparently designed by a computer. Contrary to what

one might imagine, there is nothing digital about this dress. The concept revolves around

choosing and tailoring the fabric (by hand): an ultra-transparent, synthetic material (acetate)

which, precisely because it is cut into thin spikes, captures the colours. A different

technological take on a look. My projects are creatures that are brought to life if worn

and feed on the movement of the body in space. An analogue interpretation of hi-tech.

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BEAtRICE tRUssARDI

by Rosaria Zucconi - photos by Andrea Ferrariwords by Lisa Corva

The contemporary art collector and patron opens

the doors to her new Milan home and tells us

about her Foundations latest challenge: the La Grande

Madre exhibition. A celebration of female creativity

Beatrice Trussardi descends the

spiral staircase designed by Gio

Ponti, carrying a piece by Swiss

duo Fischli & Weiss. Her passion

for art is all-encompassing.

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Clockwise from top, on the console

table a lamp by FontanaArte,

on the walls works by Fischli

& Weiss; on the bookshelves

sketches of Marcel Duchamp by

Ugo Mulas; on the wall a piece

by Alighiero Boetti; Gio Ponti

drawers in the hallway; a glimpse

of the dining room. Next page,

over the Hein and Mathsson

table for Fritz Hansen, Campana

brothers light fitting, Venini.

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Through the trees of Milans Public

Gardens, we can spot the buildings

of Corso Venezia and the Civic

Museum of Natural History. Next

page, a corner of the lounge with

chairs from the Alvar Aalto collection

and Pepe Heykoop. On the wall,

a piece by Arnaldo Pomodoro.

Architecture and greenery: a brand new view of the city. I like a house thats cosy on the inside, but with large windows to the world, even if that world is a single tree. The furniture includes pieces from the Alvar Aalto collection and by the Campana brothers

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Some of the Nicola Trussardi

Foundations exhibitions. From top,

a piece by Pipilotti Rist, part

of the La Grande Madre exhibition

at the Palazzo Reale. And a

glimpse of My Religion Is Kindness.

Thank You, See You In The Future,

a 2006 installation by Paola Pivi.

From left, the sign created

in 2006 on the Arengario Palace

for the I Like Things exhibition

by British artist Martin Creed.

Fault Lines, a 2013 solo exhibition

by Americans Allora & Calzadilla.

Short Cut, a 2003 installation by

Nordic artists Elmgreen & Dragset

at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

Were at home with Beatrice Trussardi, in an historic palazzo by the Milanese master,

to which the young collector and patron has recently moved with her husband and her

two children. I like a house thats cosy on the inside, but with large windows to the world,

even if that world is a single tree, she explains. She holds many of her furnishings dear,

mixing them with designer pieces such as the Ponti chest of drawers in the hallway, and

the Campana brothers lamp over the dining room table. But if asked to choose just one,

her answer is clear: I dont think we should get too attached to objects. So I would choose

something simple and useful, like Little Sun, the LED lamp by artist Olafur Eliasson:

it recharges in the sun, to bring light wherever it goes. An eco approach which perhaps

explains her involvement in the Wheatfield project, the wheat field/installation planted and

harvested by residents of Milan in the Porta Nuova area, and commissioned to American

artist Agnes Denes in the year of the Expo. I was excited to meet her in New York in

her loft/workshop, which brings together a fantastic set of stories and things, she tells us.

Every room in the house features a host of family items, and in a small frame nestled

among the books, we can see a photo of her Nonna smiling one summer of last century

at the lake. There is also a wealth of contemporary art, collected with the same passion

that links Beatrice to the Trussardi Foundation, an organisation which has been bringing

high-level exhibitions to Milan since 2003, curated by the extremely talented Massimiliano

Gioni. Like La Grande Madre, for example open at Palazzo Reale until 15 November

with 127 artists inviting us to consider the idea of mother. Be careful: this isnt an exhibition

in celebration of Madonnas through the centuries with babes in arms, she points out.

We wanted, above all, to reflect on the creative power of women, even when denied.

There are masterpieces from the surrealist period, as well as works by Meret Oppenheim

and Frida Kahlo. But also pieces by contemporary and controversial artists such as Sarah

Lucas, Cindy Sherman, and an installation by Pipilotti Rist which transforms one room

of the Palazzo Reale into a staggering digital fresco. Women and inspiration. At home, the

journey into art continues. Beatrice shows us works by other extraordinary female artists:

the wonderful zen golden flowers by Arianna Caroli, a nomadic, super-dynamic Italian

artist, who still today, aged over 60, splits her time between Bangkok, Bali and Miami.

And a painting by Dorothy Iannone, an artist who can be found in the Bad Girl section

of La Grande Madre. When I met her, I was fascinated by her wisdom and irony,

confesses Beatrice. What happens, perhaps, after youve gone that little bit too far.

Because youve been a bad girl. www.fondazionenicolatrussardi.com

Inside, spaces designed by Gio Ponti host contemporary art. Outside the green park and the skyscrapers of an ever-changing Milan

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MY WAYby Rosaria Zucconi and Francesca Benedetto

photos by Max Zambelli - words by Francesco Marchesi

Home atmosphere and private passions in

creative designer Maurizio Pecoraros Milan store.

Where fashion meets design

Maurizio Pecoraro in his Milan flagship store. Yesteryear atmosphere in grey-crimson nuances and brass. Lamp by Christian Dell.

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A place which feels rather like home in which fashion and design objects cohabit in harmony.

Two show cases summing up Maurizio Pecoraros creative universe. We are in Piazza

Risorgimento, just a short way away from Milans fashion streets but a long way from its noise

and confusion. This is where this Sicilian fashion designer and collector has decided to give

shape to his personal world in a concept store dedicated to evergreen beauty, with nuances

of grey and crimson, and walnut, marble and brass inserts. A space in which clothing

is displayed alongside home design items and everything is transitory, he explains. A place

constantly searching for harmony between dress and life styles in which my idea of

contemporary luxury is represented by the objects I love. The items in the fashion collection

are surrounded by interior design elements in an apparently retr atmosphere embellished

by design brand names. Veritable masters for whom Pecoraro has a weakness. I love the

unexpected lines of Philip Arctander armchairs, he goes on, describing his favourite items,

many of which come from the North, enthusiastically. The brass shapes of Paavo Tynells

lamps, the colour nuances of glass in Poul Henningsens lights, Johan Petter Johanssons

telescopic objects, Bruno Mathssons furniture. To say nothing of our own design greats.

The inimitably Italian irony of Gio Ponti, Ico Parisi and Oscar Torlasco as well as Albinis

experimental rigour. Every single element is a piece in a puzzle which follows the collections

and changes cyclically breathing life from time to time into a single thought. The space

project has been entrusted to Pierfrancesco Cravel, a long-standing friend of Pecoraros,

who thinks along the same wavelength as the designer. Maurizio and I, he explains,

have been going in the same direction for some time now and in this store we wanted to

express the soul of his stylistic research cultured, sophisticated and modern. The outcome

is an unexpected equilibrium between layers and materials which blend into a single essence.

The true secret of a space designed from within, by subtraction, continues Cravel.

The co-existence of apparently alien ways of thinking in which signs of the past and modern

flair meet in a unique space, to be explored for seductive clothing and original design.

Maurizio Pecoraro, p.zza Risorgimento 10, MI, www.mauriziopecoraro.it elledecor.it

Maurizio Pecoraros clothing

cohabits with the stores

furniture in total symbiosis.

In the background,

sixties mirrors, lamps

by J.P. Johansson and, on

the Joseph Frank cabinet,

late 19th century papier-

mch flowers. Armchair by

Kerstin Hrlin-Holmquist.

Right, the marble exalts

the elegance of the 1960s

console table and the

Norman Cherner chair.

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For exhibitors rigorous

lines interrupted by the

curved shapes of the

vintage mirror collection.

On the 1950s coffee table,

Italian made like the

sofa, a Christian Dell light.

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A changing room closed

off with a full length door in

brass and marble inserts

designed by Pierfrancesco

Cravel. Wall lamps by Arne

Jacobsen, floor lamps by

Jo Hammerborg. Mirrors

by Gio Ponti, vintage mini

armchair. Below, coffee

tables with marble, onyx

and alabaster top designed

by Maurizio Pecoraro, a

Poul Henningsen lamp.

An ongoing search for harmony between dress and life styles which represents my concept of contemporary luxury. Through the things I love.

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JUST LIKE HOME

by Rosaria Zucconi and Francesca Benedettophotos by Giorgio Possenti

A famous hair stylist in the world of fashion,

Davide Diodovich loves to work in a private, refined

studio/atelier. An oasis of calm and perfection

Furnishings and accessories in this

Milan atelier are designed by Pietro Russo.

Lamps, mirrors and armchairs recreate

the mood of a private room in the thirties.

LIfESTyLE

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lifestyle

Signature photos and fashion books

on the brass bookcase designed by

Pietro Russo. Bouquets that are always

fresh (by Fiori), vintage lamps and small

sofas, refined collections of objects

(by Raw) on the shelves. Davide Diodovich

looks for perfection in every detail. One

of his talent is discovering who people

really are, devoting all his attention to them.

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lifestyle

The inlaid wooden panelling in the kitchen

is inspired by a design by Jean-Michel

Frank, its colours reworked by Pietro Russo

to create a psychedelic effect that

is a return to the future. The veined marble

bathroom with its brass details is also

inspired by the thirties. Pastels and

vintage furnishings lend a relaxing feel.

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The veranda, with one wall covered

in greenery, plants (by Potafiori),

vintage garden furniture and photos

by Giampaolo Sgura, is a real haven

from the city. The ideal place

for a chat over a cup of coffee or tea

(from the Teiera Eclettica tea shop).

With his understated manner and natural empathy, Davide Diodovich goes from the

adrenalin-driven world of fashion to the more private atmosphere of his hair stylists studio-

atelier in Milan. Located in a ground-floor apartment in a period building, it is in the most

elegant area of the city. Working in fashion, following photo shoots, campaigns and runways

gives me energy, frees up my creativity and allows me a wider vision of what is happening

or will happen in the world. I spent a long time in London and my professional training

at the Vidal Sassoon School ended with me as the art director of the Academy. On my return

to Milan in 1996, I was lucky enough to work on the set of Nirvana, the film by Salvatores.

I was called back to London by a famous fashion and advertising agency and I threw myself

enthusiastically into this job and four years later came back to Milan. Fashion editors,

celebs, photographers and creative designers all came to my house by appointment to

have their hair cut, and we would end up in the kitchen, chatting over a coffee. I have always

pursued quality, a made-to-measure relationship and attention to privacy. My desire

is to work in a relaxing setting, where I can welcome each person as a special guest and

devote time and attention to them. When, after a lengthy search, I found the right location

for my salon-home, I showed Pietro Russo a book by Jean-Michel Frank and together

we started to follow a thirties theme. As an example of understated, unique elegance, made

up of plasterwork, pastels, inlaid wood and brass details. Pietro Russo trained at the stage

set design academy; he is a talented designer who conceives space as an environment in

which one can immerse oneself. I am crazy about Italian historic design. I admire the old

school of architecture and I designed everything, from lights to furnishings, taking care with

every detail, as they did. The biggest room has been divided into two complementary rooms

by a glass wall. The round mirrors have been designed to dispel shadows