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    SPOTLIGHT

    On a visit to an 18th-century estate along the Schuylkill River, the best-selling

    author whose botany-infused novel, The Signature of All Things, is out now

    talks plants, people and the past with landscape architect Barbara Paca.

    By Norman Vanamee

    Photos by Barry Sutton

    OCTOBER 2013

    PHILADELPHIA STOR

    E l i z a b e t h G i l b e r t s

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    On a sunny Sunday morning September, Elizabeth Gilbert stand

    foyer of The Woodlands, a 230-

    neoclassical mansion in western Phil

    that now presides, somewhat eerily

    rambling urban cemetery. She wears a bright gre

    and sneakers and holds in her arms her small bro

    Rocky, who stares up at her with expectant eyes

    is the author of eight books, including Eat, Pray, L

    2006 memoir that tenaciously held a position on

    York Timesbest-seller list for 187 weeks. At the tim

    short pilgrimage to The Woodlands (Gilbert lives

    hours drive away, in Frenchtown, New Jersey), h

    book, a novel called The Signature of All Things, is

    momentarily, and she is about to begin a 15-city ga

    readings, signings and lectures. But on this bright

    day, shes eager for a tour. Do you think we can g

    to the cellar? she asks. Its my favorite part of the

    Elizabeth Gilbert set her latest novel, The Signature of All early-19th-century Philadelphia, where her heroine lives in

    inspired by The Woodlands, a city landmark to this day. Pr

    page: photo by Ryan Collard, courtesy of The Woodlands

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    The riverfront facade o

    with its central ne

    flanked by symmet

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    T

    he Signature of all Things is Gilberts first

    work of fiction in more than a dozen years,

    and its a big, rich novel unlike anything shes

    published. Set in the 18th and 19th centuries,

    it tells the tale of a wealthy Philadelphia

    woman who dedicates her life to botany. (It has receivedwarm and, in some cases, ecstatic reviews.) Gilbert first

    came to The Woodlands in 2011 while researching the book,

    and she used the mansion and records of its gardens and

    landscaping pre-cemetery as inspiration for her main

    characters estate, which she called White Acre. It was

    great to be able to picture what the light might have been

    like, what the view might have been, Gilbert explains. It

    almost becomes a character in the novel.

    The houses saloon its main entertaining space opens onto the

    portico. While almost entirely devoid of furnishings, the interior is

    filled with natural light.

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    W

    hile conducting her resea

    the novel, Gilbert consulte

    numerous experts b

    historians and architects them. These included Barbara

    noted New York- and Maryland-based landscape a

    and scholar of early American garden design. On

    of the publication of Signature,Gilbert and Paca

    to visit Woodlands together for a tour of the ho

    by Aaron Wunsch a Woodlands board membe

    assistant professor of historic preservation at the

    University of Pennsylvania and wound up eng

    a lively discussion about landscape, plants and t

    theyve long played in American society.

    Im having a flashback, Paca says shortly a

    emerges from her dusty Volvo station wagon. I ca

    twenty years ago to examine the stable block,

    almost exactly the same as the one at Wye Hall. (P

    done preservation research at this 18th-century pl

    on Marylands eastern shore, which was the hom

    ancestor Governor William Paca.)

    Landscape architect Barbara Paca and Gil bert stroll down

    Woodlandss front drive. Paca was one of many experts Gi

    sulted in the course of researching her novel.

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    The Woodlands was built in

    1780 by William Hamilton, a

    wealthy landowner with Tory

    sympathies and the airs of

    a gentleman scholar. Its an

    imposing stone mansion, with a central

    two-story portico on its southern side that

    once overlooked gardens sloping down to

    the Schuylkill River. Now, trees and train

    tracks have encroached on that view, and

    tombstones and mausoleums have figured

    in the vista since 1840. Thats when a privatecemetery company took over the estate,

    intent on protecting this rare tract of open

    land from the industrialization that was

    rapidly transforming Philadelphia.

    The house has many now-familiar attributes

    of post-Revolution-era design, but at the

    time of its construction, it was considered

    extraordinary. To have a dining room thrust

    out into the surrounding landscape was quite

    unusual, says Wunsch, gesturing toward the

    rooms bay of tall French windows. Even

    more so because the rooms oval shape

    mirrors planting beds that were part of theestates landscape. An avid gardener in her

    own right, Gilbert carefully surveys the room.

    She set her novel in a time when a

    and high society intertwined. M

    Hamilton dabbled in art, architec

    science, and their houses and garde

    often open to genteel visitors. H

    character, Alma Whittaker, writes

    for academic journals and turns h

    into a laboratory for research. (The

    a tortured love story, not to mentio

    searching trip around the world.)

    was one of the few sciences that w

    women, Gilbert says. Or at least it time. I was very concerned that all th

    I had Alma do were plausible.

    f

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    There werent really any

    architects in America in 1780,

    Wunsch tells the women as

    they continue their circuit of

    the ground floor. One theory

    is that Hamilton designed Woodlands

    himself with the help of a local builder.

    The house features a great number of

    architectural innovations, including a

    cryptoporticus thats tucked under the front

    steps and serves as a hidden passageway,and a spiraling back staircase that runs

    from basement to attic. Both allowed

    servants to move through the house

    without being seen, Wunsch explains.

    They also provided great ventilation. Shall

    we move into the next room? The dog

    lets out a sigh. But Rocky, Gilbert says,

    holding his face. I know youre a fan of

    early-American architecture.

    Views of the house (and, bottom right, stable

    block) show its various states of conservation.

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    Among the Woodlandss most

    impressive features were

    its elaborate grounds and

    large greenhouse. Hamilton

    collected rare botanical

    specimens from around the world. In Gilberts

    novel, Almas father, Henry Whittaker, is a

    low-born Englishman who finds his way to

    Philadelphia after a youth spent traveling

    the globe in search of specimens for the

    noted English botanist Sir Joseph Banks,

    and makes his fortune selling plants formedicinal purposes. I borrowed details

    from the life of John Bartram, Gilbert says

    of Hamiltons neighbor, another American

    botanist. (She rejected as muse the house at

    Bartrams Garden, just down the Schuylkill,

    because she found Bartrams Quaker taste

    too restrained for the likes of brash Henry

    Whittaker.) There was big money in

    horticulture.

    Paca nods her head. Wealthy Americans

    collected plants to display their status but

    also for the betterment of the country, she

    says. Finding new crops or anything thatoffered refinement it was considered a

    form of nation building.

    Since its sale in 1840, the house has bee

    within a park-like 54-acre private cemete

    by Ryan Collard, courtesy of The Woodla

    In the homes saloon, or entertain

    which opens onto the portico, the w

    shallow alcoves to hold statues and

    doors were once hung with mirrors

    the things I got from speaking with B

    Gilbert says, was the idea that wom

    often in charge of these estates w

    husbands were away making mone

    laughs and says, Yes, it was, Im

    the West Indies for five years, darling

    the grounds while Im gone.

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    IT WAS GREAT TO BEABLE TO PICTURE WHATTHE LIGHT MIGHT HAVE

    BEEN LIKE, GILBERTEXPLAINS, WHAT THE

    VIEW MIGHT HAVE BEEN.

    Only a few of the propertys t

    vive from William Ham iltons d

    Collard, courtesy

    Gilbert with her d og Rocky at right explains

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    With Wunsch in t

    the women ma

    way to the ba

    and Rocky

    begins to

    interest. If theres a rat behind thRocky will find it, Gilbert says, c

    stepping through a warren of rooms

    Wunsch explains, servants once c

    ate, slept, kept watch over the fami

    and wine stores and generally insur

    the household ran smoothly. (Hann

    Groot, the no-nonsense houseke

    Signature, oversees all these opera

    White Acre.)

    When I started the book, I was

    to have Alma be a brilliant scient

    nobody listened to because she

    woman, Gilbert explains, as she

    the horsehair plaster of the walls

    I decided she would be taken se

    but that she would be plagued by

    and couldnt present her work unt

    absolutely perfect. Thats an eveinsidious problem, and it persi

    women in the workforce today.

    Gilbert, with her d og, Rocky, at right, explains

    that visiting The Woodlands helped her

    bring to life her books historic setting.

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    Lunch soon follows, set out upon a table placed

    on the houses sun-drenched back porch. After

    the basements cool darkness, the contrast is

    striking. Gilbert and Paca start chatting about

    novels that have landscape as a major focus

    Wuthering HeightsandAtonementare mentioned. Gilbert

    is the center of calm, speaking in carefully constructed

    sentences. Paca is more animated as she recalls arcane

    texts and research projects. Its hard not to see a little of

    Alma in both of them.

    After you finished the novel, what surprised you most

    about the process? Paca asks. Gilbert closes her eyes

    for a moment and then says, How quickly I wrote it. I

    over-researched and over-prepared. So when I finally sat

    down, it came very fast. She points to the columns of

    the porch, their new coat of paint one of the buildings

    few visible refurbishments. Its like when youre fixing up

    a room, after youve moved all the furniture out, done the

    sanding, done the taping. At that point you can just roll

    the paint on.

    Following up on the remarkable success of her 2006 memoir, Eat,

    Pray, Love,Gilbert is enjoying nearly unanimous critical praise for

    her new novel.