Servicing of the FourStar Cruiser

Changing the Throttle Assembly

On occasion, the throttle assembly will need to be replaced. This is not uncommon due

to owners accidentally using the throttle handle to move the vehicle around and as a

result, they break it. Damage to the throttle handle is mostly common on vehicles with

the older style throttle control handle, the new one is much sturdier, but you should always

tell the owners to be careful not to use force on it or they will need to replace it again!

This step by step guide will help you change over the throttle on older vehicles (which

have a different controller and wiring set up) and the newer vehicles.

Time required: approximately 60 minutes

Tools and equipment:

-8mm socket

-3mm Hex (Allen) Key

-Pin removal tool

-600mm of thin wire or string

Fig. 1 Pin Removal Tool.

The pin removal tool can be found at any good electrical store such as Jaycar. A small

thin flat head screwdriver filled down can substitute if the tool is not available

Before starting work on the vehicle:

Make sure the vehicle is switched off and remove the key before performing any

maintenance.

As you will be working directly with the electrical system of the vehicle, it is essential that

the batteries have been disconnected for safety. This will prevent electrical shock. For

extra safety, make sure the work area is clean and dry, free from any water or other

liquids.

1: Disconnecting the batteries.

1(a) Remove the golf bag holder if fitted from the front of the vehicle. Undo the rear

shock absorber by undoing the large green screw, remove the bolt. Tilt the shock

absorber up under the seat. There is a magnet there to hold it in position.

Magnet

Unscrew & Remove

Fig. 2: Rear Shock Absorber Fig. 3: Tilted Up Shock

1(b) Carefully tilt the body of the vehicle all the way forward. This will give easy access

to the wiring and controller.

Fig. 4 Fig.5 Fig. 6

Tilted forward New controller Old controller

This will show you which controller is fitted to the vehicle. The older style controllers have

an aluminum plate with circuit breakers on the rear. The new ones have no plate or circuit

breakers, these could be either a Yiyun or Curtis controller. Most new vehicles will have a

Yiyun controller, the Curtis is an optional extra and is not fitted from the factory.

The wiring connections are different from the old controller and the Yiyun/Curtis

controllers.

Fig. 7: Old Controller Fig. 8: Yiyun Controller Fig. 9: Curtis Controller

1(c) Remove the 3 large black screw bolts from the battery box and lift off the lid, lift up

at the rear then slide backwards. Be careful not to pull the cover away before

disconnecting the charging wires from the cover. Disconnect the white plastic clip and

then place the cover aside.

Screw bolts

Charging clip

Fig. 10: Battery box cover Fig. 11: Charging clip

1(d) Disconnect the 2 battery clips to isolate the batteries from the electronics of the

vehicle.

Disconnect these 2 clips (N.B. make sure all clips

have been disconnected.)

12: Battery Clips

The vehicle is now safe to work on.

2: Remove and replace the throttle.

2(a) First disconnect the wiring from the old throttle. You will need to locate the wiring in

that runs from the throttle. It will be connected to the 9 pin connector.

Before disconnecting anything, it is a good idea to take several photographs of all the

wiring in its current position so you can refer to it later if required.

6 pin (main switches,

note the fuse holder)

4 pin (not used at

this stage)

9 pin (throttle/brake

inputs)

Fig. 13: Wiring

If the vehicle has an older throttle, the wires will be Yellow, Red, Green and Black.

If the vehicle has a new style throttle, the wires will be Yellow, Red, Green and Blue.

Fig. 14: Throttles Fig. 15 Throttle wiring

Top- Old, Bottom- New Top- Old, Bottom- New

Disconnect the plastic connectors from each other on the 9 pin connector and then un-

pin the wires from the plastic connector on the throttle side (the wiring goes up through

the vehicle into the handle bars) using the pin removal tool. This may take some patience

to get the pins out, but be careful not to pull the wires too hard or the pin will be very

hard to remove and will have to be re-attached to the wiring. Make sure that only the

throttle wires are removed and all other wires are left in place.

Fig. 15: Using the pin removal tool.

To use the tool correctly, look inside the end of the connector and see where the small

tabs on the pins have expanded to hold the pin in place. This will be on the side opposite

to the wire. Insert the pin removing tool gently to press down on the tabs and at the same

time gently pull the wire out of the connector. You may have to move the pin removal

tool in and out slightly to remove the wire. When done correctly (it may take some

practice), the wire should come out quite easily. Repeat the steps to remove all of the

wires on the throttle. Keep the plastic connector.

2(b) Pull the now disconnected wires through from the underside of the body to bring

them up to the base of the handle bars and through the plastic sleeve. Attach a piece

of thin wire or string that is at least 600mm long.

2(c) The umbrella holder will now have to be removed to allow easy access to get the

wires through the handle bars. Use an 8mm socket to undo the bolts on the handle bars

and remove the umbrella holder bolts, place aside. At the same time, undo the fastening

bolt on the throttle handle using the 3mm hex key.

Umbrella bolts (on top)

Throttle bolt (hex head)

Throttle wiring hole

Throttle wire

Fig. 16: Umbrella holder/throttle

2(d) With the above removed, gently pull the throttle wire (Fig. 16) through the handle

bars whilst at the other end where the wire or string is attached to the end of the throttle

wire, keep light tension on to stop it coming loose or jammed in the handle bars.

Wires will go up

through here

Fig. 17: Handle bar wire hole

2(e) The wiring should be now through the handlebars. Disconnect the wire or string

attached to the end of the throttle wiring and leave it inside the handle bars. Gently slide

the existing throttle off the end of the handle bars. Slide on a new throttle. Attach the

wire or string that is running through the handle bars to the end of the new throttle wires

and feed into the hole, gently pulling it from the end that is coming out through the base

of the handlebars. Be careful not to pull too hard, you may have to gently pull it back

and forwards to get the wire all the way through. When all the way through, remove the

string or wire and then thread the wire back through the plastic sleeve and back through

the body.

2(f) Reverse the steps of point 2(c)

3: Re-connecting the new throttle.

The new throttle wire will need to be connected into the plastic connector in the correct

positions. This is critical as incorrect positions can result in irreversible damage to the

components which will require replacing. Please double check all the wiring connections

before proceeding to the next steps.

The arrangement and positions of the wires will differ depending on the type of controller

that is in the vehicle (see figures 7, 8 & 9). The Yiyun and Curtis types are the same whilst

the older style is different. The next section will be broken up into two sections for each

type of controller. Refer to 3(a) for the old style and 3(b) for Yiyun/Curtis controllers.

3(a) Old Style Controllers

Insert the new throttle wires into the plastic female connector left over from step 2(a) in

the following positions:

4 pin connector

9 pin connector

Both of the above illustrations are looking from the side of the wires going into the

connector, with the plastic locking clip on the top.

Fig. 18 Fig. 19

3(b) New Style Controller (Yiyun or Curtis)

Insert the new throttle wires into the plastic female connector left over from step 2(a) in

the following positions.

9 pin connector

3(c) Reconnect all connectors

Connect all back the white plastic connectors. Make sure all connectors are joined

together securely and there are no loose wires.

4: Testing

4(a) Raise the vehicle.

Place some wheel chocks or wedges on both sides of the front wheels so the vehicle

does not roll forward or backwards. Lift the rear of the vehicle up and place a large block

under the frame, just in front of the rear wheel. Ensure that the rear wheel is now off the

ground and can rotate freely (the hand brake should be released).

Fig. 20 Fig. 21 Fig. 22

4(b) Reconnect the battery.

Connect the battery connectors in the battery box (Fig. 12). It does not matter which

clips are connected as they are both fed into the same circuit. There will be a small

blue spark when connecting the first of the two battery clips, this is a normal

occurrence. It is not yet required to connect the charging clip yet (the smaller of the 3

plastic clips in the battery compartment).

4(c) Test.

Turn the vehicle on at the main key switch on the top of the vehicle. The battery

indicator lights should now be illuminated on the top of the throttle controller. Make

sure the forward/reverse switch is in forward. Gently roll the throttle on and the rear

wheel should start to turn. Increase the throttle to full and then release. The wheel

should come to a complete stop. Repeat the same process for reverse.

For all servicing, spare parts and accessories, please contact:

Electric Vehicles Oceania

220/354 Eastern Valley Way, Chatswood NSW 2067

(02) 9417 1547 www.electricvehiclesoceania.com.au

© 2014 Electric Vehicles Oceania/Lordco (Australia) Pty Ltd. Document and contents may not be used

without written permission.