Electric Copper Etching
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I was looking a while for a good set of instructions for electric copper etching and
found a quite good instruction at Jake von Slatts Steampunkworkshop and decided
to refine it a bit and create an own instruction set in german. Now translating it
back, i will also provide it here, making it my first instructable...
Here is an overview on what will be neccessary during all the steps:
- a power source ( DC, continuous current ) and electrodes
- an electrolyt ( a conductive liquid ): copper sulphate
- copper as basis material and for the anode
- some plastic or glas containers.
- inkjet paper
- sanding paper
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FTK/BZPR/GXL61QQY/FTKBZPRGXL61QQY.LARGE.jpg)
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Posted:Feb 2, 2012
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Step 1: The Method
The whole process i will describe is based on anelectrolytic bathusing acopper
sulphate dilution.
Electrolysisitself is a quite easy thing: it is a process, which enforces a chemical
reaction due to electricity. What kind of reaction is happening depends on the
ingredients being used.
A detailed description of electrolysis can be found here
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis)
What do i need for the setup?
- a power source ( DC, continuous current ) and electrodes
- an electrolyt ( a conductive liquid )
- copper as basis material and for th anode )
- some plastic or glas containers.
Related
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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FF4/QHFZ/GYE872PJ/FF4QHFZGYE872PJ.LARGE.jpg)
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The Power Source
It is a good idea to have a switchable power supply. I use one from Graupner
(http://www.graupner.de/de/products/294a2a60-66ab-4547-b822-
8ff610f392e4/6458/product.aspx).
It can adjust both current and voltage, so i can vary a bit depending on what
materials i use.
I would aim at having at least 12V and 15-20A output.
The electrolyt
A traditional substance for eletric etching of copper and zinc seems to be copper
sulfate (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_sulfate).
It easily dissolves in water to a nice blue liquid. I used a concentration of 4 parts
water to 1 part copper sulfate ( assuming 1 kilo being one litre ;) ). Copper sulfate
is defined as an irritant, but can be bought online. The potential danger is that it
destroys organisms over a longer period of contact. Don't put it on your skin and
do not drain it in the sink.
If you need to get rid of it, contact your local waste disposal dealer.
Copper
Since you want to etch copper, you need to copper object you want to etch. This
will be attached to the anode of the power source to let the current run through it.
On the cathode you need another piece of copper, on which the Cu2+ molecules
can settle. I actually used brass, also works fine, as will all other materials, that are
able to join with copper.
Written in chemical terms, this happens:
On the Anode: Cu => Cu2+ + 2e-
On the Cathode: Cu2+ + 2e- => Cu
The anode dissolves slowly, producing cations, which will transform copper at the
cathode through reduction of copperions.
Step 2: Image Transfer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper(II)_sulfatehttp://www.graupner.de/de/products/294a2a60-66ab-4547-b822-8ff610f392e4/6458/product.aspx -
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There are two useful methods of transfering the desired image to the copper plate:Photo exposure (http://fritzing.org/learning/tutorials/pcb-production-tutorials/diy-
pcb-etching/) or direct toner transfer, which saw as the easier ( but maybe more
inaccurate ) method i will describe now.
Before continuing, we have to clean the surface of our copper thoroughly, using
rubbing alcohol or other good cleaner. No spot of whatever may be left before the
transfer.
Now we need a negative of the image we want to etch. You need to print that on a
as glossy as possible sheet of paper. You have to experiment a bit. I chose photo
paper for inkjet printers, but i read, that also pages from product catalogs are good.
You need a paper, which has a very flat surface so the toner cannot stick to it too
good.
Use your iron at a high temperature to first heat up the copper. Then put the sheet
with the print towards the copper on the plate and apply it with high pressure of the
iron. Take care not to move the sheet or the picture will be messed up. How long
you have to press them together depends on the materials used. Again. a bit
experimenting is neccessary.
When the sheet is stuck on the plate, put i in hot water for some minutes, until the
paper just comes off. After a bit of soft rubbing, the paper should come of
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F1S/751M/GY18KBEK/F1S751MGY18KBEK.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJO/GC71/GY18WG1X/FJOGC71GY18WG1X.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FHV/8M0W/GY3E1W4Z/FHV8M0WGY3E1W4Z.LARGE.jpg)
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completely and only the toner remains.
That was the tricky part...
Step 3: Etching
In this step, you will do the etching ( and waiting... )
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FKP/NMWK/GY18WG23/FKPNMWKGY18WG23.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FRS/8LSD/GY19835E/FRS8LSDGY19835E.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FRS/8LSD/GY19835E/FRS8LSDGY19835E.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FKP/NMWK/GY18WG23/FKPNMWKGY18WG23.LARGE.jpg -
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You will do the setup described in step 1. The copper plate, that you want to etch
has to be attached to the anode using some conductive connector. I used alligator
clips, but you can as well just build a small conductive frame, which holds the
material. Again some experimenting is needed... Same for the cathode.
The coppler plate has to be covered in the dilution as complete as possible. parts,
that are not covered, will not be etched.
When everything is setup properly, power on the power source. I used 15V and
20A as an initial value. If you measure the resistance or the current flow, it will
change with time and more power will flow.
Take care, the dilution does not get to hot. Some steam is fine, as long as it is
colorless and does not smell. Boiling water will destroy the plate very likely.
From time to time slew the anode plate a bit, that the coat, which will appear after a
while, disappears. Try not to remove the toner.
The duration of the process depends on how deep you want to etch and how much
current your power source is able to deliver.
The piece i took for demonstration took me almost an hour.
Step 4: Finishing
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F4U/OSQQ/GY18RCQL/F4UOSQQGY18RCQL.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/F4U/OSQQ/GY18RCQL/F4UOSQQGY18RCQL.LARGE.jpg -
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Let the dilution drip of well after the etching. Let as much as possible drip back to
the container, since you do not want to put it in the sink. Then clean it with clear
water. A low concentration of coppersulfate won't harm the environment, but keep it
as low as possible.
Use some very fine sanding paper or grinding swart to clean the plate from toner
remainders and to get a nice and clean surface.
As you can see on the gun handle, i did not do the transfer properly. There was not
enough toner on that line, or it was not well transfered, since it seemed to have
fallen off during the etching.
Well.. that' it.. etching done...
Step 5: Addendum
(http://cdn.ins tructables.com /FMF/JGDI/GY485VTM/FMFJGDIGY485VTM.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FMF/JGDI/GY485VTM/FMFJGDIGY485VTM.LARGE.jpg -
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What happend to the dissolved copper? Does it disappear?
No.. it does not... it is attached to the cathode...
Here is a link to the German version
(http://cdn.ins tructables .com/FJV/MT5R/GY485VUX/FJVMT5RGY485VUX.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables .com/FFJ/MBPQ/GY18RCYE/FFJMBPQGY18RCYE.LARGE.jpg)
http://cdn.instructables.com/FFJ/MBPQ/GY18RCYE/FFJMBPQGY18RCYE.LARGE.jpghttp://cdn.instructables.com/FJV/MT5R/GY485VUX/FJVMT5RGY485VUX.LARGE.jpg -
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We have a be nicecomm ent policy.
Please be pos itive and cons tructive. I Made it! Add Images Post
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shobo (/member/shobo/)
have you tried this method in pcb etching?
JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) shobo
not me personally, but our
hackerspace did.
works quite well.
fusion (/member/fusion/)
any ideas for harvesting/using the remaining copper? and i can't tell by the pictures,
how deep was the etch?
thekendall (/member/thekendall/)
This may be stupid but how could I etch more than one piece at a time? Just a bigger
tank and adjust voltage and current?
Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/)
Thanks for posting this. Does the cathode have to be copper or can it be any
conductive metal? I need to etch an 18" long control panel and finding a long narrow
plastic container isn't easy. I can get a long stainless steel restaurant pan which could
work as the container and the cathode but I'd like to be sure that stainless is a
suitable cathode material.
Does the distance between the cathode and the anode have any effect on the results
or the speed or depth of the etch?
JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) Ramundicus
other conductives will also work, since
you can use this method also for copper
plating ( look at the comment below ).
so you want to use the pan as container
and cathode? i would not do this, since
you put a not small amount of electricity
on it! you have to use a non conductive
material as container.
in general i don't know, ich stainless stell
works as a cathode...
the distance does have an effect, it will
speed it up, but might also result in
increasing heat...
Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/) JohnCopper
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2 years ago Reply (CE96TDFGYDLQHDE)
Almost forgot. You mention that the
distance between the anode and
cathode can effect the speed of the
etch. You're using a narrow cathode
strip compared to the width of the
anode plate. The distance between the
two nodes is further at the ends of the
anode than at the center. The
difference is small but if you positioned
the two pieces 1" apart, there may be
several times that distance between the
cathode and the ends of the anodeplate. Have you experimented with that
and does that matter?
Ramundicus (/member/Ramundicus/) JohnCopper
You may have a point about the amount
of current on the metal pan. I got the
idea from an etching system I found
online. They use a smaller steel pan
and a small power supply for etching
small pieces. I don't know how much
voltage or current it uses but it appears
to work, I just don't know how well. It's
the only method I've seen that uses a
steel cathode/container. (Disclaimer: I
have no interest in that company or
product, it's very expensive and I'm not
recommending it.)
I do like the idea of etching horizontally,
though, with the cathode lying on the
bottom of the container. I think I can
control the distance between the
cathode and anode better than if
they're vertical.
I plan to use an Xbox power supply that
delivers 16.5A at 12V. I'm back to
searching for a 20" long plastic
container. ;)
ResaJo (/member/ResaJo/)
You know, you can use this process in reverse to actually do copper plating? just
reverse the charges from anode to cathode, having coated whatever you want to
plate with a electrolytic paint, (even organic things such as leaves, so long as you
have coated it completely with a thin coating of wax & then painted it with the paint)
and run your bath at a low amps over a period of time and you can "grow" copper
onto just about anything.
JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) ResaJo
yep... i know... that's described in this
wonderful instructable:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrof
an-Iris-Seed-Pod/
ericCycles (/member/ericCycles/)
When I was a high school student, we used ferric chloride as a pcb etchant. Of
course, the solution would become saturated with copper and stop working.
This approach sounds more interesting as it should never become exhausted, copper
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should be entering and leaving the solution at the same rate. Hmm, however, there
would be a problem getting electricity to all the paths, so I guess this isn't something
you could use for PCB's.
Thought: could you use an epsom salt (magnesium sulphate) solution instead of a
copper sulphate solution? Epsom salts are cheap and easy to come by.
JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) ericCycles
yes, technically is should not become
saturated, but after a while, since yourmaterial will never be 100% clean, you
will have some other dirt in the dilution.
it can of course be easily filtered and
used again.
i have seen pcbs etched with that
method for smd chips, so quite
detailed and fine. i do not see, why it
should not work, because the paths will
form during the process of etching...
i don't know, if it works with epsom salt.
i never tried it, so i can't recommend it.i have seen prices vary from 30% (
fishbowl use ) to 200% (
pharmaceutical use ) of the price of
coppersulfate. always depends on the
quality...
i got my coppersulfate for 8/kg from
ebay... so also cheap and easy...
crysisatutz (/member/crysisatutz/)
Please change the words "Anode" and "Kathode" against each other. A Kathode
(cathode) is defined as a thing which gives the system electrons. And a Anode
(anode) is defined as a thing which take electrons from the system.
JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) crysisatutz
hm.. actually you are right... i guess i
mixed that up at the beginning.. thanks
for the hint.. will be changed...
friger (/member/friger/)
I like this. Have you tried coating the copper plate in wax and scratching you design
into the wax? I did that once to etch aluminum and used copper as the anode.
JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) friger
thanks :)
no i did not try did... for a reason... my
skills in scratching wax ;)
designing the image on the computer
and just printing it, seemed more
usable for me...
hjjusa (/member/hjjusa/)
Will this etch brass also?
http://www.instructables.com/member/hjjusa/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/member/friger/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/member/crysisatutz/http://-/?-http://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/C4XXM5FGY4RACXIhttp://www.instructables.com/member/hjjusa/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/CWENBI5GY4R8NSXhttp://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/CC1CY4FGY4RFQA0http://www.instructables.com/member/friger/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/COBX94YGYDLQHDIhttp://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/CO9MTAXGYDJPRF0http://www.instructables.com/member/crysisatutz/http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-copper-etching/C2E59Y7GYE871FRhttp://www.instructables.com/member/JohnCopper/ -
8/13/2019 Electric Copper Etching
12/12
(/member/JohnCopper/)
2 years ago Reply (CSLVQLBGY4RADU3)
flag
JohnCopper (/member/JohnCopper/)(author) hjjusa
yes it should, since brass is an alloy of
copper and zinc. the instruction i
based this on, was using brass to
etch...
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