EL CHILENO

By O. A. GANGL

On JarwaT1f 20, 1943, Chile Mt.tertd An diplomalic relalioM willa ,II. AN,lalioM. "We could ft04 cloIre our ear. anylo1lgff to IIaottll urgllN calu and IA.nJoreWll M1Ill Jaad, to lake Ua~~ _re," Pruicknl RUM Mid apologlll1cal11l whllnannouncing Uaw decWitm.

Til. tDOrld no- from wMnI "1AcMe .".,., eau." 00_. E_ ftnee lite RioconJ_ oj Janwary 1942, ROOHWlIb doM ht.~ to dfWI Soutla Amnica~"to lite war. AJm Bnuil Jaad, duiared a .. oj~ on Augu.tC 22. onlyChile and Argentina remained fIeUInd and contintUd 10 oJJer .ubborn ruUfanee10 1M Utreau Jrotrt WuAington. Bill Chile'. economic dqmderlce on llae otIUiIMtDOrld, Mr military tHGiMu, and leer ,ulicau relaltion. ,cilll tile neiuhboring countriuof P_ and Bolit1ia, made An a prey 10 1M ._rul prulIUre.

By lite end 0/ September 1942. whlln Pruicknl RiOil "lann~ hie mJlil 0/ nJ>.",iuiott to WuAi~, CAile IIUmed ruu/y 10 gille in. H_. Ihll blunderingepeecIa 0/ Undllr«erdary 0/ Stale Sumner WeUu of Octolwr 4 created mcll an uproarin Chile tlaal Ihe Preftdmt had to gi". up lit. journey. N_theleu. til. prU8UrecontintUd. On October 20 til. Cabinet feU, and the new Cabinet whicla Wa.t JororrwJlwo day. loUr no longer incluthd any chUrmimd eupporter. 0/ Oltile'. MtIlrality.Altlaougia~ can be no doubt tlaal 1M majori/y oj CltileaM were agoi'" .wringrelation. with lite AN and IIlat Ihll hearl6 oj m<my are on Ille eid4 oj tile AN, I1af'UmOll1M later Ollile took the Jatal "tIp.

KnQ1L;,.g Iha' tile Chilean nalian it nol rUJlQrurihle Jor Ihe action tak_ bfIher ",i.VUithd leader•• we detJOle lite JoUowing pogu. u-nUftn by a long-time ruidnaIoj 'he country, to llae people oj CAile i" '!f"lpolhelic ",.derlflanding.-K.M.

NEW YEAR'S EVE IN SANTUOO

THE favorable situation of theChileancapital in the Southern Hemispherehas endowed it with unbelievably

glOrio08 summer weather during Christmasand New Year. The sky is deep azureduring the day and fiUed with brilliantstars during the nighta, which, after theheat of the midsummer days, bringwelcome coolness to the city, lying as itdoes at a height of almost two thousandfeet.

The whole town is in a frenzy of cele­brating New Year's Eve; all restauranta,bars, hotels, clubs, and da.nce halls arefiUed to capacity, and the fiery Chileanwine does ita share to put the people ina gay and happy mood. The merrimentreaches its peak when at the stroke oftwelve aU the lighta go out and everyoneembraces the person nearest him-wheth­er friend or stranger-to wish him, orpreferably her, joy and happiness.

In the luxurious Club de 1& Union wefind Chile's high society reveling. The

cool night has lured most of the peopleaway from the huge marble baUroom andthe elegant club rooms onto the roofgarden. From below comes the roar ofboisterous Santiago, over which archesthe clear night sky. In the backgroundthe vast range of the Andes with itssnow-capped gianta shines in the whitemoonlight. The band never seems tostop playing, while paper streamers andconfetti fiU the air. The celebrationshave reached their climax, when themountain range before 08 begins to glowin unbelievable colors and the dawningNew Year's Day tells 08 that it is timeto go home. We leave all this luxurywith ita fashionable, by now slightlypale-looking people and walk down thewide marble steps into the Alameda,Santiago's gorgeous main road with itaparks and Bowerbeds.

Here we are confronted with an entirelydifferent picture. The steps and sidewalkare crowded with ragged beggars-chil­dron, women, and men. Their tired eyesare full of misery and despair. But

EL CHILENO 213

The harbor of Puerto MonU. with t.he volcanoes ofOeoruo and Calbuco in the background

hardly one of the departing members andguests of the club even glances at thesepoorest of the poor. A few chaucluUJ,the small Chilean coins, drop into thepleading hands, and the new year beginsJust as the old one left this nation: withan unbridgeable gap of social contrasts.

CONTRASTS

Vast wealth and abject poverty livehere peacefully side by side. Only thechoicest products of the Old Worldcould satisfy the tastes of the rich'~deed, to find fa~or in their eyes, thing~sunply had to be lmportado. The fashion­able Chilean lady gracefully wore herParis gown-fllightly crumpled, in orderto prove that it had just been takenfrom the carton in which it crossed theocean. The products of their own coun­try are consequently, often without justi­fication, treated with disdain by theupper classes. On the other hand, everyChilean reveals a glowing patriotism whentalking of his country, which he clingsto with all the fibers of his heart, nomatter whether he is a native of thebarren North or the green South. Andjust as the people are full of queer con­tradictions, the nature and geography ofthe country are full of strange contrasts.

Having an average width of 183 kilo­meters, Chile extends over a length of4,200 kilometers. Deserts give way sud­denly to fertile valleys, 8oQ.d low plains toalmost perpendicular mountain rangeswhich are among the highest in the world.In the immediate vicinity of the coast,theCordilleras tower up to heights of 7,000meters. In spiteof its differentlatitudes, thecountry has auniform tem­perate climatebecause ofthe RumboldStream of theAntarctic,whichflows along thelength of thecoast. In thenorth there isthe completely

barren pampa, and in the south vast re­gions are covered by impenetrable, unex­ploredjungle whose wealth of timber seemsimmense. Beside cold mountain riverswhich have their sources in the snowfiel?s and glaciers of the Cordilleras, hotspnngs gush out of the earth which owetheir existence to the proximity of llumer­ous active volcanoes.

While the North is inhabited by strik·ingly robust people who can stand thehard life of the pampa and its miningindustries, the Chilean of the central zoneresembles the slender southern European.Further to the south he gives way againto a more robust type, whose ancestorsofte~ came from northern Europe. Croats,SerbIans, Greeks, and Dalmatians werepredominant among the settlers of theNorth; Spaniards, Italians, Frenchmen,and Turks chose the center; while it wasmostly Germans and Swiss who decidedfor the cooler regions of the South. Inthis way, each of the European nationsfound its new home in a latitude of Chilethat corresponded to the climate of theold country. Yet, in spite of this mixtureof all nations and races, a certain humantype has developed in Chile in the conrseof time. This type did not arise solelyfrom the mixture of the old Spanishcolonists with the native Indian popula­tion but also from nationalistic trainingand from the traits which people abroadhave the habit of involuntarily taking onfrom their surroundings.

CHILEAN TRAITS

The Spanish language is the firmestbond unitingthese people.Spain's thor­ough colonialspirit has donea complete jobhere as in allformer Spanishcolonies and hasswept away alltraces of thelanguage of theoriginal nativepopulation.There are only

THE XXth CENTURY

a very few terms to rem.llld us ineveryday language of the old Indio8 orAraucano8 who led their peaceful liveshere before the Spaniards came. Tothis day, a baby is called "guagua" inChile, and many an Araucanian name ofriver, mountain, or luke bears witness to

+ I,.on6 Coppn­a Gold• Sjlv~,.• Sall'p.t.,.o l.od• Coal• Borax• Sulphu,.

the language of the earlier inhabitants.In fauna and flora we al80 find suchnames, as, for example, that of thebrilliant national flower of Chile, theCO']»hue, whoso fiery red bell-like blossoID8shine through the green gloom of thesouthern forests, scentless, like a tear ofblood, a melancholy reminder of the cruelextermination of the Indios in the earlySpanish colonial days.

There seems always to be a slightshadow over Chile's happiness, a memoryof those early crimes that 800ms to subduethe spontaneous gaiety of the people.A breath of sadness lies over the Chileans.The melodies of their songs, their na­tional dances, oven their humor, only toooften have an undertone of melancholyand gloom. How different from theeternally cheerful nature of their Spanishancestors !

The Uncle Sam or John Bull of thisnation is not as self-assured a figure asthe symbols of the United States andEngland. It is a mi...o:erable, ragged fellowwith a t.om hat and threadbare coat andthe ugly face of a drunken vagabond.He personifies happiness in misery, beingwitty and quiok with his tongue, andcontent with the inevitability of his fate.The living embodiment of this symbol isthe Chilean roto (literally: broken one).Ragged and unkempt, he hangs aroundin the streets of the towns of Chile andenjoys the wretched freedom of his self­chosen existence. A monument has evenboon erected in the capital to this uniquenational figure. The base bears theinscription: Al Roto Chilena.

PEOPLE OF THE TOWNS

In Santiago, the skyscrapers standbeside huts built of mud and corrugatediron. The ill-famed conventillos, wretchedone- or two-roomed huts, often withoutwindows or floors, which stand in lanesoff the side roads of the main streets ofSantiago, offer a picture of appallingpoverty. By contrast, the residentialsections contain, with their broad roadsand beautiful parks, charming villas builtin the architectural styles of the wholeworld. There are Tudor houses, villaa

EL CHILENO til

On the other hand, the agrioulturalworker leads a wretched existence inChile. He is completely dependent onthe landowner, u patron, who gives hima piece of land and seed to plant it with.In return he is allowed to keep a shareof the harvest for himself and his family.Many are lucky enough to get bread andhot food in payment for their work onthe patron'8 fields, for the small additionaloash wages are often spent on drink onSundays. In this way his wife and hisusually very numerous children are atleast assured of the bare necessitiee oflife. The countless drunks in the countryon Sundays and holidays bear witness tothis most tragio of Chile's evils. Onomeets them everywhere, and it is often

TIlE RURAL DISTRICTS

The rural distriots, however, show afar more individual nature than thetowns. The grand Spanish colonial style

The Chilean woman, who has beenemancipated from the traditional fettersstill borne by her Spanish sisters, movesaround freely in public. During the teahour she dominates the appearance ofthe streets and cafes. She is elegant,and with the innate charm of the Latinrace she always wears the latest fashionsof Europe and the United States. Beauti­ful shoes are her passion.

Thus the everyday life of Chilean townsresembles that of European towns of thesame size, outwardly perhaps a littlemore loud and colorful, but inwardly alittlo poorer and more superficial.

reminisoent of the gives many of theSouth of France, entire ranch- and farmhousesblocks in North A- the appearance ofmerican and Spanish magnificent residencescolonial style, and next with wide galleriesto this the straight and colonnades sur-lines of modern rounding the entirearohitectural designs. building. Their own-Incidentally, a few ers are the unlimitedlarge concerns have in rulers of what arerecent years built ex- ..... often vast domains,cellent living quarters which are hermetical-for their workmen. The official residence of the Chilean ly sealed from the

In the center of State Pl'88ident. in the government surroundings by highthe large cities there quarter of Santiago walls. These land-are prosaic office buildings, banks, and owners are a splendid sight when theydepartment stores, as in all progressive come to town to make purchases orcities in the world. Spirited and noisy, for a festival. Their horses are Chileanas is usual in southern regions, the busi- thoroughbreds, robust, short·legged, usual­ness life of the towns overflows into the ly dun-eolored, with shaggy blackstreets. There are numerous cafes where, hair over their eyes. The huge Chil­in the afternoon, you can have your can saddles and the shiny harness areon('.e, which is an afternoon tea or coffee. richly ornamented. The men's costumeOnce really means "eleven," and it is said reminds one of that of Andalusia, withthat in the colonial days the monks of its wide-brimmed sombrero, short jacketan old Spanish monastery used secretly with rows of buttons, its long trousersto go off in the afternoon for a drink of that narrow down at the ends, its high­aguarditnte, but, in order to maintain heeled boots and huge, clanking spurs.their good reputation, excused their sud- The colorful little poncho adds color toden disappearance with the one word the picture, especially when the men"eleven." If you. count the letters in come riding into town for the feria, thethe Spanish word for "firewater" you cattle market, and show their riding skillwill have the solution of this riddle. at the rodeo, or watch the competitions

of the h1UUJ08, 1\8 the cowboys are calledin Chile.

216 THE XXth CENTURY

amazing to see the good-naturedness andskill with which the Chilean horses carryhome their masters, who sway along inblissful slumber. The cruel method ofthe Spaniards of subduing their colonialpeople with the aid of firewater has hadits grievous consequences in this Chileanhabit. King alcohol rules the small na­tion of Chile with all his short delightsand ugly accompanying effects.

The Government is doing its best tocombat this evil. It has limited con­sumption in the industrial areas andlevies high taxes on spirits. But in spiteof all this one can soo signs in all thestreets of the poorer districts and onhuts on lonely highways reading: Expen­deduria de Alcaholes. Here the laborerand the rot.o enter, here the driver stopsfor a rest who brings the mighty trunksof forest giants to the sawmills on histwo-wheeled oxcart, and here the huasohalts while riding into town. A strongwooden beam in front of the door of thebars along the highways is there to pre­vent overeager customers from ridingright up to the counter.

"INDIOS"

There are still a few thousand pure­blooded Indians living in the count,rysurrounding Temuco. That is all that isleft of Chile's original population. Al­though the unmistakably Mongoloid fea­tures of this race are to be seen in many

Chilean faces as a result of former inter­breeding with the natives, pure Indiosare today only a rarity that is facingextinction. Quiet and rather lazy, theycontinue to live in their humble strawhuts. On market days they bring thefruit of their fields and a few handwoven,colored woollen ponchos and small rugsto Temuco. With their oxcarts, the mendressed in wide ponchos and the womenadorned with ancient silver ornaments,they endow the little town with 8 specialcharacter on such days.

Today we can scarcely imagine thatthis race once gave the Spaniards andother colonists in southern Chile a lot oftrouble with its turbulent urge for free­dom. One can still meet old C'hileanswho remember Indian attacks on theirlands south of Concepci6n from theirchildhood days. In contrast to otherAmerican countries with a similar Indianpast, the great deeds of these Indios haveremained alive in Chile, glorified inpatriotic epics and stories. The Arau­canian chief Caupolica.n stands in stonein many places and is honored as a heroof national liberty, although he led thebloody revolt against the first Spanishcolonists. Thus Chile, more than anyother country of the continent, payshomage to the courage of her originalinhabitants.

A Capuchin DUSSlOn in Temuco istrying with much patience and idealismto educate the younger Araucanian gen­eration for life in modern Chile. In itsown school, it is teaching these young

EL CHlLENO 217

people simple handicrafts and the basicprinciples of civilization. In this way,they will gradually merge with the nation,perhaps the best future that can beoffered this dying race.

SCHOOLS, Ami\"" , AND POLITICS

In contrast to Spain, it is not theohurch hut the modern school building

with its large,n.iry rooms andadjoining recrea­tion groundwhich is tho prideof the village orhamlet. In thisway, progressand enlighten­ment, the b&8ictraits of modernAmerican coun­tries, have theiroutward expres­sion in Chile. Acomprehensi veand generouslegislation pro­vides for the erec­tion of schools

and institutes of learning to be oon­tinued in the future. Although thislarge country h&8 a population amountingto only 4.3 million inhabitants, there arethree universities and manyspeoial institu­tions scattered about the country for thetraining of artisans, farmers, miners, andtechnicians.

The sight of a Chilean body of troopsinvoluntarily reminds one of Germany.There are the same uniforms, the same8tyle of marching, and evcn the samemarching songs. So great htls been theinfluence of the many German instructorson the army and the sma,rt police troopof carabineros. The navy, on the otherhand, is organized on the English pattern,and most of its ships were built in Britishshipyards. On September 18 of everyyear, a hrillill.nt parade of all arms beforethe Stnte President displays the militarymight of tho country to the enthusiasticpeople. On that occasion there is a greatfestival in Stlntiago's city park which lasts

several days and where young and old havea good time at picnics with wine and thecueca, the national dance, in the mildspring weather. The whole city is deckedout in the beautiful Chilean flag, whichonce fetched first prize in a Paris beau­ty contest for flags.

The political parties uphold their doc­trines with typical southern temperament.Every nuance of the democratic world ofparties can be found, and electiondays are always times of great politicalexcitement. As in all South Americancountries, political coups and revo­lutions occur more frequently than else­where. On the other hand, they areforgotten correspondingly quickly in thebustle of everyday life.

SPORT AND ENTERTAINMENT

Chile has a tremendous enthusi&8m forsport and games. In the giant stadium inSantiago, which can seat over 80,000spectators, one tenth of the populationof the city meets on the occasionof important football matches and otherathletic events. Almost all the greatnations of Europe have given Santiagotheir own magnificent sports grounds:the French the Stade Fran~ais, theEnglish the Country Club, the Germansthe Sportverein. And in addition to thisthe police, the army, and Chilean athleticclubs compete among each other withtheir sports grounds and swimmingpools.

One of the most beautifully situatedracing tracks in the world, with magnif­icent buildings andthe finest horses, pro­vides for the entertain­ment of Santiago'sracegoers. In the gam­bling casino of thefashionable seasideresort of Vma del Mar,the roulette ball rollsthroughout the sum­mer and exerts itsmagic power of at­traction far into Ar- La Coplhue, the

national flower ofgentina, where gam- Chile

218 THE L"'Itth CENTURY

bling is prohibited. Of course, there aretheaters and cinemas as everywhere else.Punctual, well-kept trains entice one totake holiday trips to the gloriousSouth, wbere there are mountains andlakes similar to those in the most beauti­ful parts of the European Alps.

SHADOWS

But there are also dark clouds thatsometimes obscure Chile's blue skies. Nowand again, natural disasters of vast extentafltict the country, such as the recentearthquake in central Chile in January1939. The flourishing towns of ChillAnand Concepci6n were almost completelydestroyed on that occasion. The lossesin human lives and property weredoubly grave for so thinly populateda country as Chile; and it was only theiron determination of the survivors thatgradually set life ill these devastated

areas in motion again, although thework of reconstruction has proceeded veryslowly. Frequent light tremors are aconstant warning to the Chileans thatthe danger of similar catastrophes neverceases to hover over the country.

However, even more dangerous forthe Chilean nation than the disasters ofNature is the pressure of a foreign anddistant power in the northern part of thecontinent. During the Great War, Chilesucceeded in remaining neutral; never­theless, as a result of Anglo-Americanpolitics, she lost her greatest naturaltreasure, the nitrate monopolyI as wehave shown in a previous article. Inthe present war, she has succumbed toRoosevelt's pressure, and it is alreadypossible to predict that she will bitterlyregret the decision that was forced uponber.