Edition 41 - October 2010

No. 41 - www.bajagoodlifeclub.com October / octubre 2010

LIVE • WORK • PLAY • INVEST • RETIRE

B A J A G O O D L I F E C L U B M E M B E R S G U I D E

Two months alone on an island in the Sea of Cortez by Graham Mackintosh

W W W. B A J A G O O D L I F E C L U B . C O MMEM

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BAJA CALIFORNIA

PLUS:

Todos Santos - Baja’s Magical City

Creative Building for a “Green” Home

Centavo’s Two Cents: BAJA “BIJOU”

Clam Beach RV Resort

and so much more...

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Valle de los Gigantes

New Coastal Hwy

2D

8

Bahia Asuncion

Bahia Tortugas

Bahia de Sebastian Vizcaino

Bahia Rosario

Bahia Blanco

Bahia Maria

Bahia Santa Rosalillita

Bahia de Los Angeles

Bahia San Luis Gonzaga

Bahia Colonet

BahiaTodos Santos

Bahia las Palmas

Bahia Muertos

Bahia la Ventana

Bahia de la Paz

Bahia Santa MariaBahia Magdalena

Bahia San Nicolas

Bahia San Basilio

Bahia de Concepcion

Bahia Santa Ines

Bahia San Rafael

TijuanaTecate

Yuma

Hermosillo

Santa Ana

Nogales

Carborca

San Quintin

El Rosario

Guerrero Negro

SonoytaLukeville, AZ

La Paz

Loreto

Santa Rosalia

Gulfo de Santa Clara

Mulegé

El Coyote

San Ignacio

Todos Santos

San Jose del CaboCabo San Lucas

LA BOCANA

PUNTA ABREOJOS

PUNTA PRIETA

PUNTA FALSAPUNTA

EUGENIA

Lighthouse

BAHIA TORTUGAS

Santa Rita

CIUDAD CONSTITUCION

Ciudad Insurgentes

Rosarito Beach

Ensenada

Puerto de Santo Domingo

Bahia Almejas

Puerto Penasco(Rocky Point)

Guaymas

Tucson, AZ

San Carlos

Colonia Vicente Guerrero

Colonet

Villa Jesus Maria

BAHIA ASUNCION

La Purisma

Baja California Sur

Baja California

SonoraG

ULF O

F CALIFORN

IA(Sea of Cortez)

Bahiade Ballenas

Bahia San Hipolito

Bahiade Ballenas

San Felipe

MexicaliLos Algodones

Puertecitos

Valle de Guadalupe

La Bufadora

Santo Tomas

Maneadero

SAN PEDRO MARTIRNATIONAL PARK

National Astronomic Observatory

CONSTITUTION OF 1857NATIONAL PARK

Cataviña

PuntaPrieta

Santa Rosalillita

Los Barriles

Pescadero

SIERRA DE LA LAGUNANATIONAL PARK

Vizcaino

Isla del Carmen

Isla Danzante

Isla Monserrat

Isla Santa Catalina

Isla Santa Cruz

Isla San Jose

Isla San Francisco

Isla Espiritu Santo

Isla Cerralvo

Isla Santa Margarita

Isla San Marcos

Isla Tortuga

Isla Angel de la Guarda

Isla Tiburon

Isla San EstebanIsla San Lorenzo

Isla MiramarIsla Lobos

Isla EncantadaIsla San Luis

PACIFIC OCEAN

PACIFIC OCEAN

San Vicente

La Mision

Punta Estrella

Laguna Percebu

Ojes Negros

Heroes de la Independencia

Valle la Trinidad

Calamajue

Rosarito

LagunaOjo

de Liebre

San Juanico

San Javier

PuertoSan Carlos

San Miguel (1797) Guadalupe (1834)

1791

1780

Santo Domingo (1775)

1774

53 miles

29 M

18 M

23 M

35 M

get gas if southbound

get gas if northbound

77 M

64 M

Bahia LA turnoff

40 M33 M

91 M

46 M

46 M

86 M

12 M

80 M

133 M

70 M

49 M

19 M

48 M

Chapala

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Santa Maria (1767)

San Borja (1762)

Santa Gertrudis (1752)

1728

Guadalupe (1720)

1705

1720

16991697

San Juan Malibat (1705)

Delores (1721)

San Luis Gonzaga (1737)

1720

Santiago(1721)

1730

Santa Rosa (1730)

El Descanso (1767)

San Fernando (1772)

LEGEND:- Page of city map & directory

- Pemex Gas and/or Diesel

- Airport

- Highway Sign

- Marina

- Mission Site - Jesuit (17) (1683–1767)

- Mission Site - Franciscan (9) (1768–1773)

- Mission Site - Dominican (1) (1774–1834)BA

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ALIF

ORNI

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GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - �

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NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHERS

OCTOBER CALENDAR

The following events are Baja Good Life Sponsored Events, which are events we highly recommend. details of these events can be found featured on bajagoodlife.com commu-nity and in the baja Report email newsletter. The events take place on the dates indicated.

PUERTO NUEVO - Baja Book Fes-tivalSaturday, october 9, 2010 10am - 5pm. words, wine, food, art and more, at the baja book fes-tival at the joanna jones galeria Y cafe 47.6 kilometer on the free road, cantamar exit on toll road, just South of Puerto Nuevo. SHow YouR caRd baja good life members receive a 10% discount on you purcahse. Sponsored by baja good life club. more info: wwwbajabookfesti-val.com or 619-630-1170 or 619-318-5347.

SAN FELIPE - Red Cross fund rais-er featuring guitarist Javier Batiz.Saturday oct. 16th, 7 - 10Pm,The Red cross office in San felipe is in danger of closing due to financial problems. The leg-endary guitarist javier batiz, who taught car-los Santana to play rock guitar, is also socially aware of this problem. He will be donating his talent for this very worthwhile event. The pro-ceeds will be donated by the San felipe lions club, directly to the San felipe Red cross direc-tor. we hope you will support this event.

SAN FELIPE - OctoberFestSaturday oct. 23rd from 10am to 6pm; Held on the “malecon”. There will be vendors serving a variety of “german” style cuisine and arts & crafts booths. admission will be $10.00 and you will receive 5 drink tickets. SHow YouR caRd baja good life members receive oNe fRee ticket with admission. each ticket is good for one of 10 different beers. This is going to be fun and exciting event brought to you by San felipe lions club & Sponsored by baja good life club.http://www.bajagoodlifeclub.com/oc-toberfest

LA PAZ - 2nd Annual La Paz Festi-val D’arte 2010November 28, 2010. artist’s get Ready! with even more help from the State of baja Sur, city of la Paz, this year promises improvements over last year’s enormously successful festi-val. www.festivaldarte.com. location: marina Palmira. more info call or email Kathy bezy at (612)121-5886 - [email protected]

SubmiT YouR caleNdaR eveNT aT www.bajagoodlife.com EVENT SECTION.

baja caleNdaR eveNTS are published weekly in the baja Report.

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Here we go again, a new format. what can we say, it’s not in our nature to give up. for nearly four years we have been producing this publication and the last two have been a battle. How could we have known that just two years after starting the magazine, that baja would have such an economic downturn? but is it going to stop us, hell no! we love baja and will continue to do all we can to promote this amazing peninsula as a place to play, visit or call home.

desperate times require desperate mea-sure, and although this isn’t really desperate, it’s certainly a measure of our commitment. just two months ago, we had to make one of our toughest decision, to provide editorial via the internet only and provide the member dis-counts in print through direct mail. This was tough for us personally because we absolutely love publishing about baja. but when we start-ed getting emails and calls from our members, that loved it as much as we did, we had to find a way to bring it back. So here we are.

The new format may not have all the color of the previous editions, but the editorial is back and we you’re pleased, we are. we can continue to provide you with fun and useful in-formation about the place we all love. our baja merchants can also share their great products and services and our writers can share their passions. we are very happy to be here and feel blessed to be able to continue sharing baja with you.

Thank you,john & Rachel Pack

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Sometimes when the world seems too testy and turbulent i yearn

for a little time alone, ideally alone reveling in the silence and grandeur of baja california.

That quest for solitude has taken me around most of the coast of baja, up into its high-est mountains and - in com-panionship with a burro - along the trail of the missionaries. in january 2006 it led me out to a colorful mountainous island in the Sea of cortez.

Isla Angel de la Guarda is the second largest island in that sea. Separated from the baja peninsula and bahia de los an-geles by the deep and treacher-ous ballenas channel, it remains uninhabited apart from a few temporary fishcamps.

john Steinbeck, in the Log from the Sea of Cortez, recounted his visit to the island in 1940:

The long, snake-like coast of guardian angel lay to the east of us; a desolate and fascinating coast. it is forty-two miles long, ten miles wide in places, waterless and uninhabited. it is said to be crawling with rattlesnakes and iguanas, and a persistent rumor of gold comes from it. few people have explored it or even gone more than a few steps from the shore…

after spending time ashore, he added: “we want very much to go back to guardian angel with time and supplies.” Steinbeck never re-turned. but i was perfectly happy to venture out for him with two months supply of food, a thirty pack of beer and fifty gallons of water.

i bought a used kayak, a stable but slow two-seater “sit-on-top” that bore the scars of a former life as a fishing and duck hunting plat-form on the colorado River. it was bright blue with a thin camouflage of streaks of gray paint. it had seen better days, but with a 600 lb car-rying capacity it would do for my purposes of coastal exploration.

confronted by sudden blasting winter winds and swirling currents, boaters regularly get into trouble and occasionally lose their lives in and around la bay, so i had no intention of pad-dling fifteen miles out to Angel de la Guarda.

my plan was to arrange a panga ride and spend about two months exploring from one or more base camps. i wanted, as far as i was able, to get to know the island, its history and geology, the people and creatures that come and go, to photograph it, experience it, and

perhaps, if the spirit moves me, make it the subject of my fourth baja book.

The islands of the Sea of cortez enjoy overlapping recognition and protection as a uNeSco biosphere Reserve (1995), a world Heritage Site or “site of outstanding value to humanity,” (2005), and a mexican govern-ment designated and controlled “area for the Protection of wildlife (2000).”

one needs a permit to be there. i visited the “Islas del Golfo de California” office at la bay, and paid my fees, which were 40 pesos a day. Though i learned later i could have bought an annual “passport” that covers entry to all the National Parks in mexico, including the islands of the Sea of cortez, for about 400 pesos.

i had to wait a week for a day calm enough to attempt the crossing and i put the time to good use interviewing la bay residents about their guardian angel experiences. my head was duly filled with fascinating information and dire warnings about not only wind, cur-rent and tide, but also precipitous cliffs and canyons, feral cats, poachers, ravens, and rattlesnakes. above all, i was informed that i was about to venture alone into one of the ma-jor thoroughfares of drug trafficking. “we hear pangas out there on still nights; and you don’t need much imagination to guess what they are up to,” was a typical comment.

Steinbeck had said: “The difficulties of ex-ploration of the island might be very great, but there is a drawing power about its very forbid-ding aspect.” i was unshakably drawn. So on january 7, 2006, i helped load my kayak, gear, and provisions into a local panga.

i ended up camping on the west coast, a third of the way down from the northern tip, at

the sheltered north end of a mile-long bay. There was an aban-doned panga there above the high tide line which i incorporated into my campsite.

The first evening on the island was warm, still, and spectacu-larly colorful. it augured well for the days ahead, and i retired to my tent and sleeping bag feeling deeply privileged to be there.

about 1:30 a.m., after the moon had set, i was woken from my slumbers by the sound of a panga approaching. The three or four Spanish speaking occupants began shining a powerful light over my kayak and belongings. i thought it best not to emerge from my tent so they wouldn’t know

there was just me inside. fortunately, after a few minutes, they went elsewhere. i dressed then scouted up and down the coast to see if anyone had landed.

The experience underlined the precarious-ness of my situation. Next day, i hid three gal-lons of water close to my campsite, and took a large canvas bag of food and basic survival gear into a dead-end canyon and buried it be-neath brush and rocks.

Keeping busy is a great way to deal with

anxiety. although it was january, i needed shade so i rigged up a tarp between the old panga and a couple of long branches i’d found on the beach.

and kayaking on a calm day was always relaxing and fascinating. Several times i spot-ted sea turtles and found myself surrounded by schools of yellowtail. Some of the whale breaching activity out in the appropriately named canal de las ballenas was spectacular.

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - 5


Huge simultaneous explosions of spray often gave the impression of salvos of naval gun-fire.

back in camp i enjoyed the company of black and white oyster catchers which often waddled along the shore in pairs just a few yards away, prodding beneath the rocks with their long orange-red beaks.

Ravens on the other hand were a real nuisance, pecking at my posses-sions with their sharp beaks. i quickly learned to “raven-proof” my camp when i was away. even so, they man-aged to puncture my solar shower bag, vandalize a foam pad, and scatter all the batteries in my solar charger.

i was alone almost two weeks be-fore i had my first conversation. an intrepid canadian kayaker paddled into my bay. we spent two days hiking and exploring together and reached a point in the middle of the island offering a fantastic view of both coasts, and over to the baja peninsula and the coast of Sonora.

The kayaker was clearly concerned about the return journey to la bay. even though the seas hadn’t fully settled from three days of strong northerly winds, he started back before dawn battling five feet swells and was well out of sight by first light. Sharing his anxiety, i climbed a nearby peak and willed the wind to stay down for his crossing. when he was close to Smith island, almost within la bay, we managed to exchange a few words by vHf handheld radio. i was jubilant to know he was safe.

a few days after he left, i hiked across the mountainous backbone of the island. it always took a little faith to leave my kayak and all my possessions unattended all day.

january was delightful: not a mosquito or a no-see-um, and no scorpions or rattlesnakes, hardly even a fly or an ant. and it was surpris-ingly warm—the thermometer rarely dropped below the fifties at night, and often climbed above 75 degrees in the day.

The evening of february 6, having drunk my last can of beer about ten days before, i found myself looking up at a lovely moonlit gallon minikeg of Heineken. a few hours earlier the keg and a touching valentine’s card from my wife had been dropped via parachute into the sea by a friend piloting a cessna. i didn’t even have to kayak out to get it; some wild wind and waves drove it quickly to shore.

ironically, i found myself with almost as much beer as water! i’d spent most of the previous three days making drinking water by distilling seawater—a reliable but slow and te-dious process providing about a cup an hour

and necessitating constant tending and su-pervision of the still. fortunately, there was an abundance of driftwood for fuel.

february 9, i was climbing north into the mountains when i noticed two pangas racing purposefully towards my campsite. my cozy month-long routine of exploring, beachcomb-ing, and looking at life through camera and

binocular lenses was about to come to a sud-den end.

i dashed the two miles back and found myself dripping sweat in the presence of seven rather rough-looking marijuana puff-ing pangueros from Sonora. with the whole of guardian angel island to chose from, they

had set up their camp right beside my tent and tarp-covered possessions.

i tried diplomatically going with the flow but witnessing my clean, well-ordered campsite degenerating into an ecologically-challenged illicit fishcamp with containers of diesel and

gasoline all around, and finding myself totally out of sync with neighbors diving all night for lobsters, clams, and sea cucumbers, and then sleeping most of the day, i knew the time had come to move on. The need to move became urgent when their buddies in two more pangas pulled in from the mainland.

one of the pangueros agreed to take me to the splendid sheltered bay of este Ton, about 9 miles south. The kindly poachers gave me 5 gallons of water and promised to drop off any extra they had on their way back across the gulf.

at my new home it was too windy to put up my tent. i tried kayaking inside the bay and found the paddle nearly ripped from my hands as i struggled to keep from being blown out into an increasingly wild and dangerous sea.

with some difficulty i finally erected my campsite in the mouth of a little canyon. That night the wind shifted and came blasting from the northeast down the canyon threatening to rip my tent to shreds.

Next morning with the wind moderating, and better able to appreciate the stunning beauty all around, i busied myself cleaning up the beach and collecting driftwood, rope, pieces of fishing net, and other useful stuff. for shade i cut down some agave stalks and began mak-ing a sturdy framework that i could cover with the netting.

my new neighbors included several large endemic chuckwallas (Sauromalus hispidus), a pair of nesting ospreys and a belted king-fisher.

one morning i heard the kingfisher’s cries of distress and saw a falcon attacking it. The kingfisher stayed out over the bay and dropped into the sea every time the falcon closed. The splash seemed to confuse and deter the pred-ator. amazingly, the falcon tired first and broke away to land on the rocks. The gallant king-fisher flew in the opposite direction and made his escape.

There are no coyotes on the island. but one of the poachers showed me the scars on his arm where he said he’d been attacked by what he called a dracula cat. i saw cat tracks and scat all over, and several nights the silence was rent by their chilling screams, but so far i hadn’t seen a live cat. at my new location, i came across three of them, all dead. and these hairy beasts were not cute kitties. grotesque in death, with ugly protruding fangs, they in-deed looked like little vampires or werewolves. i wondered what had killed them.

as the days warmed, the biting and nui-sance flies began to wake up, and i had my

continued on page 12

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Todos Santos is located on the pacific side of baja california Sur. with cabo San lucas approximately 45 miles to the

south and la Paz to the North, Todos Santos is perfectly located to all of the amenities and at-tractions both towns have to offer visitors and natives alike. it also sits apart from both of these communities with its unique mix of old and new. The people of Todos Santos take great pride in their heritage and history, while striving to make visitors and those looking for a great place to live and work feel welcomed. Todos Santos ex-udes such a special appeal that the town has the honor of being the only town in baja california Sur to earn the distinction of “Pueblo magico” (magical city).

over the past few years, Todos Santos has inadvertently become an artisan’s village. with its oasis-like feel with plenty of green compared to the surrounding dessert landscape and the awe-inspiring scenes of natural beauty every-where you look, it is easy to see why so many established professional artists have flocked

to the area as their prime source of inspiration and business. Todos San-tos’ status as an artist’s colony is re-inforced by the many galleries, over a dozen, which are peppered through-out the town. galeria logan, with the works of jill logan, the N.e. Hayes galeria, galeria de Todos Santos, the charles Stewart galeria, galeria wall, with the works of catherine wall, li-busche, and a shop featuring the works of wendy faith, glass artist, all reflect the importance the arts have within this town. with renowned and accomplished artists with their own galleries working alongside writers, musicians, and other artisans in the

streets, Todos Santos is a true artist colony.Paint and canvas are not the only form of ar-

tistic expression found overflowing through the streets of Todos Santos. The town hosts many festivals throughout the year to showcase the abundance of local talent. The historic theater in town hosts plays and film festivals. There is an artisans craft fair and frequent musical concerts in the Plaza for visitors and locals to enjoy. There are plenty of shops highlighting intricate ceramic goods, leather goods and handmade clothing for visitors and locals to explore.

To get a real feel for the town’s historical significance, a visit to the casa de cultura-The Professor Nestor agundez cultural center-is a must. The center has a library, gallery and work-shop. There is also a museum with five exhibi-tion rooms to wander through. Todos Santos was known as the sugarcane capital of baja in the 19th century. The remnants of the el molino Sugar mill still give insight to the importance of this past industrial giant’s impact on the local culture. To get even more of a complete glimpse

into the past of Todos Santos, there is a historic house tours festival. music buffs will surely want to stop at the Hotel california. be forewarned, the eagles never stayed there and the song does not pertain to this establishment in any way; but that hasn’t stopped people from stopping in and tak-ing part in the fun urban legend that mistakenly surrounds this bar.

Todos Santos is as much a nature lover’s des-tination as well as a haven for those who enjoy the arts. The unbelievably clean beaches are per-fect for swimming, shell collecting and strolling along with a loved one. it is advisable to check local conditions, as some areas are simply too rough to swim safely. with that said, the shores of Todos Santos are ideal for surfers. many surf-ing competitions are held here throughout the year. The waters off of Todos Santos are also special in the eyes of anyone who relishes the thought of whale watching. grey whales make

the trek south to the waters of Todos Santos in january, february, and march. They give birth in the waters and often will tout their young close enough for onlookers to enjoy. The water is per-fect for fishing also. There is a plethora of marlin, yellowtail, swordfish and wahoo for fisherman to try their hand at catching.

Todos Santos - The Magical City of Baja’s Pacific CapeGPS: 29o 30’ 0 N 114o 45’ 0 wby Karri Moser

The coast along Todos Santos offers world class surfing

Todos Santos offers a large bariety of business and has one of the largest art communities in baja.



El Caballo Blanco

613-116-5374www.bajacaballobooks.com

Loreto BCS Mexico

“Big Surf”30” x 40” oil on canvas $2700

by JILL LOGAN

(686) 122-2668

Silver and Bone-carvedJewelry Creations

RESTAURANTS / BARS DISCOUNTS ROSARITO BEACH, BC

El Meson Restaurant20% discount. Not valid with other discounts or promotions. Not valid during special events. expired december 15th, 2011Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883

Café del Mar Restaurant20% discount. Not valid with other discounts or promotions. Not valid during special events. expired december 15th, 2011Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883

CANTAMAR, BCJoanna Jones Galeria y Cafe

member discount: 10% discountPhone: 661-614-0819

ENSENADA, BCRestaurant La Bufadora

25% off Your order excluding ThursdaysPhone: 646-154-2527

SAN FELIPE, BCThe Pavilion Restaurant

buy 1 meal get 2nd meal 50% offmx: 686-577-0003

The Sweet Spot

one free domestic (house) drink with meal.mx: 686-209-6369

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LORETO, BCSLoreto Islas Restaurant

free drink with mealPhone: 01-52-613-135 2341

SHOPPING DISCOUNTSSAN FELIPE, BC

Baja Ink Spot10% off on Tattoos.mx: 686-577-0746

Baja Beautybuy 2 Trailer Trash T-shirt receive 15% off686-105-7019

Pelicano Market5% on wednesdays686-577-0743

LORETO, BCS

El Caballo Blanco Bookstore10% off any purchasemx: 613-116-5374

Dali Market10% off Tuesday and ThursdaysPhone: (613) 135-2477

LOS BARRILES, BCSCopper River Designs

10% off jewelry purchase624-141-0125

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Fatboy’s Pizza 10% off any large Pizzamx: 686-577-4092

Rumors Bar & Grill

20% off second entree of equal or lesser value. mx: 686-577-3168

El Polloyon - Pollo Asado10% on total ordermx: 686-113-8042

Juanitos (El Colorado)fRee beverage with mealPhone:

Los Arcos Restaurant15% discount on food and beveragePhone:

Rabbit Pizzafree beverage with purchase on Tuesdaysmx: 686-577-0987

La Cabaña Restaurant10% off PurchaseNot available

Roadrunner Cafe15% off all day on wednesdays686-227-7668

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686-577-3168

while the allure of the sea makes Todos San-tos a perfect destination, there are plenty of land activities to enjoy also. There is a bird sanctuary for bird watching, eco-tours and hiking opportu-nities in the Sierra laguna mountains.

The “Pueblo magico” Todos Santos indisput-ably has the best climate in baja Sur, amazing artistic talent and opportunities, a distinctive history to learn about and safe picture perfect beaches to explore. with so much in the borders of one tiny town, Todos Santos has experiences waiting to be treasured by anyone.



Mar Caribe Sur #1088-4Across from ABC Bus Depot

686-577-0708

[email protected] - [email protected]

Well, let’s just say yes about that, as we dart in and out of our vehicles racing to any building that has air

conditioning to get out of the sweltering heat.in our little town of San felipe, siestas last

longer in these midyear months. we are not always sure when we will wake up just to do as little as possible. we know that most people

who like to travel are long gone to cooler places; destinations without tanning lotions and buckets of iced cold beer.

Those of us who stay here ride the roads like warriors from some abandoned desert acropolis, carry-ing coolers for groceries that would wilt, melt, or explode without them.

Picture us saying “we’re just go-ing to stay in baja for the summer.” Neighbors are careening out of their driveways in motor homes, waving to us in disbelief with smirks barely hidden on their faces. Yes...well, have fun!

This is my third summer here and my usual dialog with people who are passionate enough to be outside is this.... “was it this hot last sum-mer? i don’t remember it being this hot “. The question always defies a factual answer.

You will not see our malecon deserted. fami-lies travel here with their children who want

nothing more than to play on the beach and look for shells. School is forgotten and camping in the sand is a stunt these visitors have down pat. There are tents and tarps, clothing hanging and drying, and portable barbeques that main-tain their heat all day ready for the next meal.

our beach becomes a tented sculpture of colors, a nomadic odyssey for those that want to enjoy the ocean. You can do that on a sail-boat, a jet ski, a ponga, a banana boat, a kayak, a tube, a float, a boogie board, or a noodle. if you didn’t bring these objects you can rent or buy them here. because of the immense salt content of our cortez Sea you can float on the water without these gadgets as if you were as light as air!

i marvel how ingenious our town can be so-cializing in weather that almost forces you to sleep...or read...or watch movies rather than be outside. if you live or are a visitor at el dorado Ranch you can dip your toes or body into their pool while watching a movie at night on a huge portable blow up movie screen!

Centavo’s Two Cents: BAJA “BIJOU”Hot in Baja in the summer? by Penny Nask

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - �


Walking distances to North Beachfor all you Wind & Kite Surfers

www.fisheastcape.comLos Barriles BCS Mexico

HEALTH & BEAUTY DISCOUNTSROSARITO BEACH, BC

Las Rocas Spa 10% discount in service of your choice. Not valid with facials. Not valid with any other discounts or promotions. valid until december 15th, 2010Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883

SAN FELIPE, BCConsultorio Dental – Dr Jason Arias Corpus

30% off dental cleaningmx: 686-577-6212

Miller Dental10% discount on dental fillingsPhone: 686-214-9221

California Optical10% off SecoNd PaiR of Single-vision glasses.mx: 686-577-0708

Botica Sagrado Corazon

15% off all medications.mx: 686-577-1294

Santa Fe Pharmacy10% off all generic meds. mx: 686-576-0546

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do you have a business you would like to listed as a discount? let us know about it: [email protected]

SAN QUINTIN, BC Posada Don Diego R.V. & Motel

10% off Rv & moTelmx: 616-166-2181

LORETO, BCSEl Tiburon Casitas

10% off with min. 2 daysmx: 613-135-2536

SUN * FUN * BEACH3 Nights, breakfast, &2 tours for 2 people

ONLY $310.00 usdEmail Adriana Torres for

“Aug. 2010 Offer for Baja Good Life Club!”

613-134-0400 or [email protected]

LORETO BCSHotel Santa Fe$71.00 uSd per Room Per Night (includes daily breakfast buffet - all taxes)Phone: 1 877 2172 6823 uSa & caN - 01 800 472 6823 mex

SUN * FUN * BEACH3 Nights, breakfast, &2 tours for 2 people

ONLY $310.00 usdEmail Adriana Torres for

“Aug. 2010 Offer for Baja Good Life Club!”

613-134-0400 or [email protected]

LORETO BCSHotel Santa Feadventure Package - $354.00 uSd Tours with 3 nights StayPhone: 1 877 2172 6823 uSa & caN - 01 800 472 6823 mex

LOS BARRILES, BCSHotel Los Pescadores

12% off.mx: 624 121 8786

CABO SAN LUCAS, BCSHotel Mar de Cortez

fRee Room upgrade.uS: 1-800 347-8821

ACTIVITIES DISCOUNTSENSENADA, BC

Baja Country Club$25 green fees for women and Seniors.uS: 866-599-0631

MULEGE, BCSEcomundo de Eduardo / Ed’s World

10% off water activitiesmx: 615-101-0969

LA PAZ, BCSSeascape Charters

10% discount on charter feesuSa & canada: 707 237 6784

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Medicorama Farmacia-Pharmacy member discount: 50% off all generic medica-tionsPhone: 011-52-686-577-6261

Back to Life 10% for physical therapy treatment686-576-039

ALL OF BAJA Binational Emergency Medical Care Committee

11% off annual membership619-425-5080

LODGING & ACCOMMODATIONS DISCOUNTS

ROSARITO BEACH,BCBobby’s Baja by the Sea

Stay 2 nights get the 3rd night fRee 619-955-7710

Las Rocas Resort & Spaupgrade Package with reservation, includes: dinner for 2 at el meson Restaurant, 2 wel-come margaritas, & Yoga classes.Phone: +52 (661) 614 9883

SAN FELIPE, BCVIP Earth Events

10% off with min. 3-day uS: 619-203-5129

San Felipe Resort Rentalsmember discount: 10% discount Phone: uS Toll free 877-256-8060

ENSENADA, BCClam Beach RV Resort

one free night on a 2 night stayPhone: (619) 335-5487

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You can have dinner and drinks and plop yourself in a lounge chair... and wait for a plate of popcorn delivered to you mid movie.

“Poolside movies” do take a bit of adjust-ment. it helps if you have taken a dip into the pool before the movie starts. The ocean breeze will cool you off through most of it.

a few clouds float by, the stars twinkle, the evening birds fly above us. i watch it all.

a dive-in movie! doubt my traveling neigh-bors are doing that.



www.abat t i -gut ierrez .comUS Direct : 7�0-482-8�81Mex Cel l : �8�-2�1-7504

Off ice: �8�-57�-022�

Like an artists not wanting to show their unfinished work, bernardo Ruiz asked us to hold off on publicizing his Rv park

until it was complete. a project bernardo and his family have been working on for 5 years. clam beach Rv Resort may be incomplete in the eyes of bernardo, but from the perspective of this writer, a baja Rv nomad, this park was on it’s way to becom-ing a masterpiece, and we just couldn’t keep it secret.

clam beach Rv Re-sort at kilometer 71 on the Rosarito / ensenada toll road has the signs of work in progress, but not because of half completed construction, but rather from the stack of bricks near the soon to be completed club house and the half-dozen nearly completed Rv sites and clearly mark future home of the pool.

However, the other 90% of the park was complete and it was clear that much thought and care went into it’s design and amenities. The park has 82 sites offering pull-through, back-in and pull-in, each equipped with 30 and 50 amps, water and sewer hookups. The

bathroom facilities are large and clean, with shower areas, each complete with private dressing room and a laundry room with coin operated washers and dryers.

The office is conveniently located near the entrance gate and offers high-speed wi-fi ser-vice. clam beach has one of the nicest beach-es in the area; large clean and nearly a mile long and the park staff help to keep it clean, both by providing garbage pickup and cleaning up trash after those that chose not to use the provided trash bins.

The park also offers complete security with on-site management and a periodical police drive-through, although i can’t imagine there every being a need.

The park is quiet and even when it’s busy, it is well-managed and pleasant; we know be-cause we spent the mexican independence weekend here. The park has daily trash pickup and is well-groomed with regular mainte-nance of the lush lawns and the young palms

separating many of the Rv sites and scattered throughout the park.

clam beach also offers an extensive beach camping area on the north-side of the resort, which has it’s own restroom and shower fa-cilities, separate from the Rv guests.

daily rates start as low as $33.60 per day for an Rv site, or as low as $392 per month with all amenities included. it’s true the park is not yet complete, but it is very close and for

many, all the amenities that they would ever need are already in place. after all, its only the recreation areas that are not complete, and who really needs that when you have a beach like theirs?

clam beach Rv Resort can be reached via email at [email protected] or by phone

at 646-155-0976. if you’re dialing from the uS, call 011-52-646-155-0976. clam beach does not have a website, but i understand one will be available soon. if you’re a baja good life member, show your card and receive a third night fRee on a two night stay.

latitude: 32° 4’26.86”N longitude: 116°52’43.08”w

Clam Beach RV Resortby John Pack

- A masterful work in progress.



What would bring a woman in her 50s to the desert from the wet Pa-cific northwest? it is likely a sense

of adventure and freedom. with the experience of designing and building her last three homes, and the desire to build again—along with the freedom mexico provides . . . to try anything . . . to build anything—in addition to the lower cost of building was all the motivation andrena joyce needed.

San felipe offered a quiet and peaceful envi-ronment, like-minded friends and a lower cost of living. a place where creative talents can ex-pand and flow into all aspects of life.

inspired by friend and business partner, melody ashley, who first started tire construc-tion with a fence around her property, andrena joyce, a local artist, designed a house made entirely of tires.

choosing to build a “green” house came easy for joyce, both as an artist and having already built “green” in the past. originally from oregon,

she designed and built a log home with her fam-ily. She also built a solar home in el dorodo Ranch.

choosing to use old tires was easy—they were free, plus the material is both strong and smart. The tires are packed with red dirt then wrapped with wire and cement to cover, provid-ing excellent insulation. it also cleaned up tires in the desert and along the roadside. They’re or-ganic looking . . . a flintstone of bedrock look.

There are no fumes from tires, and it is NoT a friendly environment for insects or mold. The walls are two-feet thick, providing amazing strength and footing and incredible insulation for the hot mexican summers, plus the thick-ness in the walls significantly cuts down on out-side noise. in addition, these homes will still be

standing when oth-ers are long gone!

Tires are free for the pickin’! They create a unique structure and clean up the environment by using a mate-rial that does not decompose. joyce hopes others will be inspired to use this method of building and that we will see less discarded tires along the road and in the desert, and, instead, see more beautiful, sustain-able homes and structures.

when she first started building, joyce had no idea what the total cost would be. it was kind of

an experiment. She was very pleased that it was about the same as block construction with foam insulation. There were higher labor costs be-cause it is more labor intensive, but the building mate-rials were less.

joyce enjoyed building the home so much that she built a second one right next door and would love to build more. building a tire house was ex-citing and, in the

end, she found living in a tire house brings a sense of security, an organic feel from the curves and bumps of the tires, “almost womb-like” says joyce, “very cozy and welcoming as well as artistic and unique.”

joyce has been living in her larger tire home for almost three years, which is now for sale. when it sells she says she’ll move into the smaller one next door.

This unique home is being offered for sale by owner for $149,000. uS. owner financing is available.

casa de llantas features include a large kitchen with tiled counters, custom cabinets and com-fortable dining area. utility room with washer and additional pantry. The spacious living room w/ fireplace has beamed ceiling, beautiful tiled floors and sliding doors that open to a private patio. The extra large bedroom features a walk-in closet, bathroom, and also opens to the patio. upstairs, a large rooftop patio and roomy guest suite with bath and private entrance. The large 60’x130’ lot is nicely landscaped and complete-ly fenced. unattached garage with opener.The home has air conditioning w/ heat throughout. city water and electric.

“i love the ejido, it’s quiet and friendly and i can walk to a good restaurant, thrifty ice cream, and soon baja chocolate lovers will have a storefront! what could be better?”if a uNiQue Home iN baja iS YouR dReam THeN coNTacT joYce in San felipe at (686)210-4598 if youre calling from the uS dial (011) 52- 1 -686 210-4598 or send her an email [email protected]. joyce also has ejido lots available for sale.

Creative Building for a “Green” Baja Homeby john Pack

- A masterful work in progress.



Home Builders inSan Felipe

www.SanFelipeHomeBuilder.com

ProvidingQuality, Integrity and

Professionalism since 2005San Felipe (686) 577-3176 San Diego (619) 920-2292

www.bajacountryclub.comInformation & reservations

646-177-5523US Toll Free

1-866-599-0631

DeveloperFinancing

Homes from $154,500 usd

2,314 sq ft Lots from

$25,800 usdGreens Fees from $30usdGreens Fees Rental Homes

& Resales

REAL ESTATE DISCOUNTSSAN FELIPE, BC

Amor Property10% off fideicomisosmx: 686-577-0611

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BUILDING & CONSTRUCTION DISCOUNTS

ROSARITO BEACH, BCTo The Top Elevator

5% off on a wheelchair lift/residential elevator.uS: 619-342-2183

SAN FELIPE, BCSweitzer Construction Management

5% off all building Projectsmx: 686-577-0195

SAN FELIPE, BC

PC* * * * *

El Dorado Ranch 5 Star Contractor

Lupe Pérez, General Contractor 011.521.686.170.3979

Jane Allen, Contract Manager US: 480.600.2114 or MX:

011.521.686.236.4927www.sanfelipehomesbyperez.com

[email protected]

Pérez Construction“Best in Baja”

Perez Construction8% discount on construction projects. mx: 686-170-3979

Baja Home Improvement Servicesmember discount: 5% discount to all club membersPhone: 686-222-4507

CABO SAN LUCAS, BCSTankreto Precast Cistern Systems

member discount: 10% discountPhone: 624-173-9719

HOME & GARDEN DISCOUNTSSAN FELIPE, BCS

Versoleil Landscaping10% off on landscaping and building projects.mx: 686-573-0526

LORETO, BCSMedia Luna Loreto

membership discount: 10% percent discount on decoRaTive iTemS. and 15% disc on furniturePhone: 613-135-0533 / cell 613-104-8244

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author of baja adventure books:

Graham Mackintosh is a regular contributor to Baja Good Life and Adventure Writer specializing in Baja California. www.grahammackintosh.com

Nearer My Dog to TheeMarooned With Very Little Beer

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Into a Desert PlaceJourney With a Baja Burro

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

first rattlesnake and scorpion encounters. The col-orful but intimidating mountains and the thought of the rattlesnakes emerging curtailed my inland explorations. i preferred to kayak, fish and beach-comb.

i eventually ran out of water, which necessitated spending a good part of my day boiling seawater and condensing the steam. So i was ready when one fine morning in march, a launch from the villa bahía hotel came to take me back to la bay.

my two month guardian angel island adventure was over. i returned to San diego in great shape, greatly rested, and almost fifteen pounds lighter.

and like Steinbeck, i want very much to go back. and no doubt i’ll take a few more than thirty cans of beer.

continued from page 5

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES DISCOUNTSSAN FELIPE, BC

San Felipe Storage Company$20 off first month Storage.mx: 686-576-0432

San Felipe Disposal

15% off on all new accounts.mx: 686-121-1004

Alanis Insurance

15% off New Homeowner Policies.686-577-2464

686-121-1684www.bajahousecleaners.com

SAVE 10% on Baja

Cleaning ServicesBaja House Cleaners

member discount: 10% off cleaning servicesPhone: 01-521-686-121-1684

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do you have a business you would like to listed as a discount? let us know about it: [email protected]

GUIDE TO THE BAJA GOOD LIFE - 1�


DEVELOPER FINANCING AVAILABLE

An Exclusive Gated 8 Unit Townhome Complex in San Felipe

www.oasisdecortez.comUS 760-208-1700US 760-208-1700US 760-208-1700Starting at $159,900

PC* * * * *

El Dorado Ranch 5 Star Contractor

Lupe Pérez, General Contractor 011.521.686.170.3979

Jane Allen, Contract Manager US: 480.600.2114 or MX:

011.521.686.236.4927www.sanfelipehomesbyperez.com

[email protected]

Pérez Construction“Best in Baja”



Computer &SatelliteInstallation

Satellite Internet

Also Computers, Cell Phones, and DVD RentalsAv. Mar de Cortez, Plaza San FelipeVisit us Online: www.csibaja.com

686-577-2928 [email protected]

BUSINESS DIRECTORYbaja emergency numbers from any mexican phone and cell phone carriers

060 - Police 066 - ambulance 068- fire department076 - green angles Road assistance

ROSARITO BEACHbaja Public Storage.. ........................... .661-614-1642cisco-Sat... ..........................................661-616-0779la bamba 50’s diner. ......................... ..661-100-2560

ENSENADAel Rey Sol Restaurant ..........................646-178-1601baja country club Resort... ..................646-177-5523

SAN FELIPELODGInGRedwagon Property Services.. ............ .686-576-0081San felipe Resort Rentals... .......... uSa 877-256-8060San felipe vacations llc... ..................928-277-6863Sandollar condotels. ........................... .686-123-7688

RESTAuRAnT blowin Smoke.. ................................... .686-576-0710juanitos (el colorado). ....................... ..686-133-6500los arcos Restaurant.. ........................ .686-577-2585Rabbit Pizza delivery.. ......................... .686-577-0987Rosita Restaurant.. .............................. .686-577-1903Rumors................................................686-577-3168Sand Rail Pizza. ................................. ..686-576-0441The Sweet Spot... ................................ 686-209-6369

BuSInESS LISTInGbaja california Rental car. .......... ..uSa 619-470-7368california dental... ................................686-577-0708cSi - computer & Satellite.. ..................686-577-2928dr victor abasolo - medical... ...............686-577-1706 dr victor abasolo - medical ..................686-537-0174fandangos bar... ..................................686-577-0060Hair by Nancy.. ................................... .686-113-3682 luis lagarde - Pest control... ...............686-216-2281Panaderia especial - bakery.. ............... .686-577-1902Rumors - bar... ....................................686-577-3144Redwagon Property Services... ............686-576-0081San felipe Home builders. .................. ..686-577-3176San felipe moving & Storage.. ............. .686-577-0432

MULEGEPelican Reef Real estate center.. .......... .615-161-5499

LORETOel Tiburon casitas.. ..................... .(uS) 805-748-4566 las cabanas de loreto.. ...................... .613-135-1105

LA PAZomni Services .....................................612-123-4888

LOS BARRILEScooper River designs ...........................624-159-4780wolf Property management ........... www.wolf-pm.comHome maintenance, vacation Rentals, ground Trans-portation

LOS CABOSjungle cactus Nursery (San jose) ........624-122-0324Hotel mar de cortez (cabo). .................800-347-8821Hotel mar de cortez (cabo) .......... uSa 831-663-5803

01(661)614-0513www.bajasclick-on.com

Copies Internet EmailSnail mail Coffee

Soda Snacks

Internet Café & Business Center

SERVICES DISCOUNTSROSARITO BEACH, BC

Click On10% off on 100 copies/more5% off 6 mo./1 yr mail serv.mx: 661-614-0513

LOS BARRILES, BCSWolf Management Ground Transportation Service

5% off service in baja Sur.mx: 624-188-3027

San Felipe BCTaller Rallo - Brakes and Suspensionmember discount: 10% off servicesPhone: 01-52-686-946-7465

The Computer Guymember discount: fRee problem diagnosticmember discount: 25% off the first hour of laborPhone: 011-521-686-134-6183

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15% OFF MEXICO HOME OWNERS INSURANCE

MEXICAN HOME OWNERS

INSURANCE

686-121-1684www.bajahousecleaners.com

SAVE 10% on Baja

Cleaning Services

annual liability policies for members starting at only$83.10 per year

www.bajagoodlifeclub.com / 1-877-luvmex1 ext. 3

MEXICAN AUTO INSURANCE

building Homes Since 1990

Edition 41 - October 2010

Documents

Transcript of Edition 41 - October 2010