EAT Magazine Jan | Feb 2013

RESTAURANTS | RECIPES | WINES | CULINARY TRAVELJA

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Honeyed Squash Salad p.24Celebrating The Food & Drinkof British Columbia

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2 EAT MAGAZINE JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2013

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3www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2013

TapasConcierge Desk . . . . . . . 05

Top Shelf . . . . . . . . . . . . .07

Epicure At Large . . . . . . .08

Get Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . .09

Good For You . . . . . . . . .10

Food Matters . . . . . . . . . .11

Reporter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Eating Well For Less . . . .18

Liquid Assets . . . . . . . . . .26

VINcabulary . . . . . . . . . .28

Cookbooks . . . . . . . . . . .29

Wine + Terroir . . . . . . . .30

Wine & Food Pairing . . .32

News from around BC . .34

What the Pros Know . . . .38

Cover photography: “Eat, Quaff, Play” by Michael Tourigny

EAT is delivered to over 300 pick-up locationsin BC including Victoria, Vancouver,Kelowna, The Islands and the Okanagan

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Editor in Chief Gary HynesContributing Editor Carolyn Bateman Vancouver Contributing Editor Julie Pegg

DRINK Editor Treve RingSenior Wine Writer Larry Arnold

Okanagan Contributing Editor Claire Sear

Food ReportersTofino | Uclulet: Jen Dart, Vancouver: Anya Levykh, Okanagan: Claire Sear,Victoria: Rebecca Baugniet | Cowichan: Lindsay Muir | Nanaimo: Kirsten TylerWeb ReportersColin Hynes, Van Doren Chan, Elisabeth NylandContributors Larry Arnold, Joseph Blake, Michelle Bouffard, Jennifer Danter, Jen Dart,Jasmon Dosanj, Pam Durkin, Gillie Easdon, Jeremy Ferguson, Nathan Fong, Tracey Kusiewicz,Anya Levykh, Ceara Lornie, Denise Marchessault, Elizabeth Smyth Monk, Michaela Morris, Eliz-abeth Nyland, Julie Pegg, Treve Ring, Claire Sear, Michael Tourigny, Scott Trudeau, SylviaWeinstock, Rebecca Wellman, Caroline West.

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Main PlatesRECIPESBest Brunch . . . . . . . . . . .....22

FEATURESTofino Eats . . . . . . . . . . . . ....16First Look: Fry’s Bakery ....37

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A MEETING OF THE MOUTHS


Vanquish the Winter Blues

WHILE IT’S HARD to beat the excitement and indulgences of theholiday season, once the last of the free-range turkey has beeneaten and the pile of empty wine bottles taken to the recyclingdepot, January comes with a certain sense of relief. Curl up in a thick sweater in front of the fire for a quiet evening

of reading, sipping a steaming cup of hot chocolate. I make minethe way I had it in France. In a small pot melt the finest chocolate

you can lay your hands on. Put it into a serving pitcher. In another pot, heat some creamor milk and also put it into a pitcher. Pour the melted chocolate and hot cream togetherinto your cup, stir, and sip for the ultimate winter treat, replenishing from the pitchersas needed. Or go for a walk in the brisk cold and come back home to the aromas of a longsimmering stew brimming with earthy root vegetables. For me, winter means warming,easy-to-prepare dinners that are laid-back and low-key. Add in a big red wine and I’m inheaven (on page 28, Vincabulary recommends six Syrahs). Although your wallet might have taken a beating during the holidays, that doesn’t

mean you have to stop dining out. Many restaurants offer winter specials at affordableprices—especially midweek—or try going to a good restaurant for lunch instead of din-ner and save a bit that way. Starting on page 12, Reporter and Eating Well For Less offersup new and favourite restaurants to try. For a mid-winter splurge, take your honey out for Valentine’s Day. Book early for the

best seats. One of my Valentine’s Day traditions is to open a bottle of sweet dessertwine—a Vancouver Island blackberry port-style wine would be a perfect choice—andtoast the gods of amour. Check out eatmagazine.ca on Feb. 1 for our top picks forValentine celebrations.Winter also means having a lie-in with a lingering brunch and the Sunday paper—

maybe sneak in a cocktail or two—who’s watching anyway? In Eat, Play, Quaff on page22, we offer an antidote to the winter blues with a scrumptious brunch of cheesy toasts,a wintry salad of roasted squash and hearty greens and a cocktail that blends apple ciderwith whiskey and warming spices. Go on, stay in bed a little longer – this is down timeat its finest.Have a great winter and I’ll see you again when the leaf buds are bursting and the

blossoms are out.—Gary Hynes, Editor

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JANUARYWINTER MARKET (Victoria, BC)The Victoria Downtown Public Market Society continues to raise awareness, supportand funds for the return of a permanent downtown public marketplace. Visit the InnerCourtyard of Market Square on Jan. 5th and 19th, and Feb. 2nd and 16th to enjoylocal food and music and support a great cause. (victoriapublicmarket.com)

WINTER MARKET (Vancouver)Held every Saturday, from 10am -2pm, at the Nat Bailey Stadium. Once again, youcan also bring your food scraps from home to recycle at the Food Scraps Drop Spot,sponsored by Recycling Alternative and Vancouver Farmers Markets. A donation of$2 per drop is appreciated. (www.eatlocal.org)

11th DINE OUT VANCOUVER FESTIVAL (Vancouver)Celebrate the eleventh anniversary of Canada’s largest restaurant festival. From Jan18- Feb 3, eat your way through 17 days of culinary events. Hundreds of restaurantswill be offering three-course prix-fixe dinners paired with BC VQA wines orKronenbourg beer. Restaurants and menus will be announced January 7.(www.dineoutvancouver.com)

CHOCOLATE MASTER SERIES AT COOK CULTURE (Victoria)Six hours of lectures, tastings, slides and interactive discussion split over twoconsecutive Wednesday nights with David Mincey. Learn about all aspects of thecultivation and processing of cacao into chocolate as well as take an in-depth look atthe ecological impact of cacao farming on a global scale. Trace the path of chocolatethrough three thousand years of Western civilization and examine its impact on everyfacet of our modern lives. Most importantly, taste over thirty of the world's finestchocolates and learn to differentiate between country of origin, species of cacao treeand method of processing. Jan. 12 and 19. (www.cookculture.com)

WINTER OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL (Okanagan)Set in the magnificent alpine setting of Sun Peaks Resort, the annual WinterOkanagan Wine Festival is one of a kind. While the vines are snoozing through thewinter, the Okanagan winemakers are hard at work. Well, okay – they get a break fromtime to time. And they want you to visit them. Jan 12- 20. (www.thewinefestivals.com)

TASTE BC 2013 (Vancouver)Taste BC is an experience of BC’s finest wine, beer and spirits accompanied by tasty farefrom some of Vancouver’s best local restaurants. With excellent food and drinks, at-tractions include live music, door prizes, and a silent auction that rivals any other. AllTaste BC’s proceeds benefit one of the province’s most vital medical institutions, theBC Children’s Hospital. Jan. 15th, 4.30-7.30 pm. Tickets $49.99. (www.tastebc.wordpress.com)

BC BITES & BEVERAGES SERIES (Victoria)Rich in Food: Revitalizing traditional food on the Northwest Coast. Join cookbookauthors Dolly McRae and Annie Watts, together with ethnobotanist Dr Nancy Turner,asthey tell the story of the native food movement of the Northwest coast. EnjoyIndigenous tapas and tips on how to prepare and preserve the natural harvest. Janu-ary 17, 7 – 9 pm, Member $35 +hst, Non-member $40 +hst (royalbcmuseum.bc.ca)

8th ANNUAL VICTORIA WHISKY FESTIVAL (Victoria)Once again, the Hotel Grand Pacific is hosting the popular four-day Whiskycelebration. Events include Jim Murray’s guided tasting of 2013 Whisky Bible winners,the Grand Canadian Club Dinner, masterclasses and tastings. Jan. 18-20.(www.victoriawhiskyfestival.com)

SPICES OF NORTH AFRICA AT LONDON CHEF (Victoria)The food of North Africa - from Morocco in the western tip to, the Red Sea in the east- is diverse and varied, by its nature often very healthy, always vibrant, and inevitablyfit for gathering and feasting. CONT’D ON THE NEXT PAGE

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead

the concierge desk by Rebecca BaugnietFor more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2013



This class will include looking at, cooking and eating four dishes from this fascinat-ing region, discussing tradition, outside influences and the typical ingredients. Jan. 23(www.thelondonchef.com)

INTRODUCTION TO HONEY - AN OPIMIAN WINE PAIRING EVENT (Victoria)Since 2011, The Westin Bear Mountain has had an active beehive at the resort and hasutilized the honey from the bees to produce some fantastic meals. The Opimian,Canada's wine club, is encouraging members and non-members to meet and learnfrom the Chef/Beekeeper as well as experience Bear Mountain's Wine Cellar Honeymenu. Mead wine, produced from a honey farm in Sooke, will also be on the menu. Opimian wines will be paired with the special menu. The event is slated for Saturday,January 26. Tickets are available by emailing [email protected] or calling Steve orCarole Hutchinson at 250-472-1415.

FEBRUARYBIGLEAF MAPLE SYRUP FESTIVAL (Duncan)Participate in mini-workshops facilitated by experienced maple syrup producers, in-cluding tapping demonstrations, presentations, and displays. This year features cook-ing with local maple syrup and maple foods will be available. Features a maple syrupcompetition with judging by celebrity chefs from Vancouver Island. The evaporatorwill be running all day so visitors can savour the warm maple aroma of sap and seehow syrup is made. Feb 2, 10am – 4.30pm at the BC Discovery Centre in Duncan.(www.bcforestmuseum.com)

LOCAL CHICKEN: EVERYTHING BUT THE CLUCK (Duncan) Meat sourcing and butchery class featuring dishes such as chicken liver pate (raised toan art form with quince jelly), pan-fried chicken dumplings, ballotine of chicken withmorel mushrooms and split roast BBQ chicken with garlic and chilies. Includes allmaterials and products, includes a meal we prepare in class. $100 per person. Feb 1,noon - 5:00 pm. Duncan. (www.deerholme.com)

DINE AROUND AND STAY IN TOWN (Victoria)Tourism Victoria and the BC Restaurant and Food Services Association’s 10th AnnualDine Around and Stay in Town will take place from Feb. 21- Mar. 10. Participatingrestaurants will offer three-course menus for $20, $30, $40 CND per person and are allpaired with BC VQA wine suggestions. This year select restaurants will once againoffer celiac-friendly menus. (www.tourismvictoria.com/dine)

SEEDY SATURDAYS ON VANCOUVER ISLAND (Qualicum Beach and Victoria)These events are the premier networking and educational event for gardeners of allabilities! Feb 2 at the Qualicum Beach Civic Centre, from 10am – 3.30pm (QualicumBeach). Feb 16 at the Victoria Conference Centre, from 10am – 4 pm (Victoria)(www.seeds.ca)

7th ANNUAL TEA FESTIVAL (Victoria) Hosted in the tea capital of Canada, the 7th annual event features tasting of teas thatoriginate from around the world, tea-food selections, complimentary presentationson a variety of tea topics, and opportunities to purchase hundreds of teas, tea-relatedproducts, and exquisite tea wares. A Silent Auction will be offered. Proceeds toCamosun College Child Care Services. It’s a one-stop shop for all things tea. Feb. 9,11am- 5pm at the Crystal Garden. (www.victoriateafestival.com)

PARKSVILLE UNCORKED WINE & CULINARY FESTIVAL (Parksville)From wine or beer newbie to seasoned palate, you'll enjoy tastings, featured winedinners, bubbly brunches, wine-inspired spa treatments and local tours from. Lastyear's festival events sold out. Feb 21-24. (www.parksvilleuncorked.com)

CULINAIRE (Victoria)The third annual Culinaire event will be held at the Crystal Garden on March 21 thisyear. This event provides locals with the opportunity to savour signature menu itemsand inspired dishes from an abundant selection of restaurants, lounges, pubs, cafes,specialty purveyors, and sip from a fine selection of local and regional wine, cider,and craft beer. Partial proceeds provide scholarship awards to the Camosun CollegeCulinary Arts Program and a donation is made each year to the BC HospitalityFoundation. (www.culinairevictoria.com)


www.eatmagazine.ca JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2013 7

top shelf— by Jeff Bateman

Every other Friday, adelivery van drops off fourhalves of two “happy pigs”raised like free-rangeroyalty on cabbage andboiled eggs at Qualicum’sSloping Hill Farm. LukeYoung and Paige Symondsimmediately get busy withhandsaws in their kitchenat Choux ChouxCharcuterie. “We’re likeMennonite butchers,” saysYoung, flashing a first hintof his dry wit, “only weown cellphones and listento music while we work.”In short order, the pairtransform flattened sides ofmeat into bacon, ham,sausages, terrines and pȃtéssoon to be snapped up bythe regulars who frequenttheir jewel-box of a formerantique store on Fort Street.

Like grandfather, like grandson: Ralph Young was a butcher in Gravenhurst,Ontario. “He was a meat-cutter, plain and simple,” says Luke, 36, who also worksmarvels with chicken, rabbit, beef, turkey and duck. “He’d packed in his knives beforeI can remember, but I do have a butcher block with a plaque that reads ‘To Muskoka’sfinest butcher, Ralph Young.’ That’s pretty cool.” Young studied at Vancouver’s Dubrulle Culinary School before arriving at Raincity

Grill for two pivotal life moments in his mid-twenties. Then-chef Sean Cousins shiftedhim to a trainee role as house butcher “just as I was losing my mind doing 200covers a night as a saucier. I spent my days slicing through mountains of salmon,halibut and black cod, then moved on to whole animals—a Raincity specialty waybefore the ‘nose-to-tail’ phenomena took off.”He also fell for Symonds, a Victoria native who’d replaced him in the restaurant’s

kitchen brigade. The two ran off for the first of several spells in France, footloose andbroke but soaking up knowledge at every turn. Symonds apprenticed on a goat farmnear Toulouse, where she began developing an expertise reflected in the shop’sselection of imported cheeses. The pair also learned the butcher’s trade in earnest inVancouver – Young with Dunbar’s Meet the Butcher, Symonds at Oyama Sausage Co.on Granville Island. Fast-forward to spring 2005. “We had $10,000, no business sense and a lot of faith.

Paige and I tore out everything, painted, did all the renos ourselves and worked thefront counter. It was chaos.” Local carnivores were ecstatic, however. And the pace hasmellowed as staff were added, a lunch menu established and wholesale accountsopened (led today by Pizzeria Prima Strada and Dockside Green’s Fol Epi). “It’s been a big learning curve and business has gotten a bit better every year,” says

Young, who bikes to work daily from the Finlayson/Cook Street neighbourhood homehe shares with Symonds and a beloved elkhound. He’d love to see his end of FortStreet (between Quadra and Blanshard) evolve further into a culinary mecca and wouldwelcome a pȃtisserie or specialty wine store as a neighbour. “So many businesses comeand go around here. The sushi and cigarettes joint failed, because of course when youeat sushi you want a cigarette for dessert. But we’re seeing some great independentbusinesses root in for the long run and we intend to remain one of them.”

Choux Choux CharcuterieCharcuterie lovers cherish Luke Young and Paige Symond’slittle European-style delicatessen that could.

Rebecca Wellm

an


IT’S THE COLOUR OF DARK RUM. It stinks. It’s overbearingly salty and pungent. It hasa certain tang of decay. It seems to call up the souls of 10 million dead anchovies. Theinitial response from Westerners is like a child’s first bite of an olive: “Ewwwwwwwww”But fish sauce, made from the juices of fermented fish, is one of the world’s greatest

components of cuisine. Its glutamate content renders it the very soul of umami. Andcautiously employed, it gives all takers a million-dollar mouth. We know it as nam pla in Thai cuisine and nuac mam in Vietnamese, but it plays with

slight variations in the kitchens of Myanmar, Cambodia, Laos, the Philippines, China,Japan and Korea, where it is a natural for kimchi.Asian chefs regard it religiously, none more than the Vietnamese. They ladle it into

soups, sauces, marinades, salad dressings, dips and stir-fries. Didier Corlou, chef-ownerof Hanoi’s Madame Hien and Verticale restaurants, compares it to a drug. The coastal town of Phan Thiet, where anchovies and salt are layered in barrels and

fermented for six months, is practically a pilgrimage centre. The whole town reeks of thestuff. Tourists hold their noses but after a while start to like it. Its history in Asia is clouded. Towards the end of the 17th century, the fish sauce

known as ke-tsiap travelled out from China, and two centuries later turned up in theU.S. as the icky sugar-and-tomato sauce known as ketchup. Another fish sauce bastardis Worcestershire sauce, which is both fermented and contains anchovies.Now comes the surprise: In ancient times, fish sauce was a gastronomic superstar in

Europe. It could even be more Western than Asian. One historian even speculates thatit travelled from Europe to Asia on the trade routes.More than 2,000 years ago, fish sauce was a thriving industry from Spain to the Black

Sea. Called garum, it was made from fish intestines and salt and occupied a lofty posi-tion in the Roman Empire kitchen. Not everyone went along: “... that expensive bloodymass of decayed fish consumes the stomach with its salted putrefaction,” ranted Seneca,but he was a philosopher, not a food lover.The Romans mixed it with wine, vinegar and black pepper to sauce meats and fishes.

They diluted it to a blondish hue and drank it. They considered it medicinal, a cure fordog bites and diarrhea. And they used it cosmetically to frighten off freckles.As the Roman Empire toppled, oddly, so did the popularity of garum. And poof, it

disappeared from Western food.Fish sauce remains omnipresent in Southeast Asian restaurants: in Victoria, make your

way to the Vietnamese Green Leaf or Kim’s, which are both excellent, and the LaoVientiane. On supermarket shelves, the Fairway Market on Quadra stocks five labels, allThai. Thrifty’s and other non-Asian markets proffer Thai Kitchen, a fine, slightly lessaggressive product bottled in Canada. Most important, infusing fish sauce in western cuisine is an adventure. The classic dip

of fish sauce, lime juice and chilies sings on any continent. From burgers to bouilla-baisse, chefs are using it to kick up their flavours. And coming your way any day now:the Umami Burger, with fish sauce its transcendent ingredient.My wife’s miracle is butterflied chicken or Cornish hen marinated in garlic, onion,

ginger, orange peel, sesame oil, sugar and fish sauce. The marinade serves as a brine,rendering the bird stupendously juicy and tender. Then—such wondrous alchemy—thefishiness dissipates and the sauce becomes a catalyst for everything else. The flavours come at you in the gastronomic equivalent of IMAX and leave the palate

blushing with the savoury, mouth-filling richness of umami—and a distant dream ofthe China Seas.


epicure at large — by Jeremy Ferguson

The mouth-fillingumami richness of fish sauce conjures adistant dream of theChina Seas.

Where chefs, foodies andknife nerds shop

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BUTTERSCOTCH-SWEET, nutty-tasting parsnips should be as popular as their carrotrelatives, but these roots are often overlooked as a delectable ingredient. You mightbe surprised to learn that parsnips are higher in vitamins and minerals than carrots(with the exception of vitamin C) and are an excellent source of potassium, calciumand folic acid. These versatile vegetables can be braised, sautéed, deep-fried, boiledor roasted, and are a sweet substitute for potatoes or carrots in many recipes. Roastedchicken, pork, duck, bacon, duck confit, venison and turkey are perfect partners.Peruse these parsnip possibilities and you’ll soon be a snip convert.Parsnips are at their peak of flavour right now, when the cold weather converts

their starches into sugars. I love creating dishes that pair parsnips with sweet, crispapples from my apple tree, which store well through the winter. The rich tastes ofhoney-roasted parsnips, apples and sweet potatoes are irresistible. I use the apple-snipcombo to make curried parsnip soup, spiced with garam masala, cloves and plentyof garlic. Another favourite is parsnip-yam-apple soup, sparked with coriander andshavings of fresh ginger root.Pears are another delightful fruit pairing for parsnips. My pear tree was very boun-

tiful this fall, and I preserved batches of chunky pear sauce to use throughout thewinter in sweet and savoury dishes. I serve silky pearsnip sauce, made with orangejuice, orange zest, maple syrup and cardamom, with potato latkes, pork, chicken orroasted duck. Try making a delectable side dish for pork roast or roasted chicken bybraising pears, parsnips and ginger root in white wine and chicken broth. Gratedparsnips and firm pears make wonderful latkes (pan-fried pancakes).I make a delicious stuffing for roasted chicken or turkey with parsnips, apples,

chorizo sausages and fresh mint or oregano from my winter garden. A rich breadpudding stuffing made with roasted parsnips, a cubed brioche loaf, grated Parmesancheese, leeks, dry white wine, heavy cream, eggs and fresh thyme is a superb stuff-ing for roasted birds that doubles as a side dish.Parsnips are so sweet they deserve to be served for dessert. Try gorgeous golden

snip pie, made with pureed parsnips, honey, orange zest, eggs, cinnamon, nutmeg,cloves and lemon juice, baked in a pastry crust and served with whipped cream.Soup is a popular choice for parsnip creativity; these starchy roots are a natural

thickener and can be pureed into a velvety, creamy potage after being roasted orboiled. Roasted parsnips, pears and onions are delicious pureed with chicken stockbroth. Add a hit of balsamic vinegar to balance the sweetness of the caramelizedfruit and veggies. If you crave a creamier soup, add heavy cream to a soup madewith parsnips, apples, potatoes and chicken broth. Garnish with sautéed leeks foroniony crunchiness.It’s time to savour snips for their sweet earthy essence.

get fresh — COOKING BY THE SEASON — by Sylvia Weinstock

Rooting for ParsnipsTry sweet and earthy “snips” in soups, sauces, stuffing —even desserts.

Roasted Parsnip Soup (Serves 4)

1 pound parsnips, peeled and roughlychoppedOlive oilSalt and freshly ground pepper, to taste 1 cup diced onions1/2 cup diced carrots 1/2 cup diced celery1/2 cup diced leeks2 Tbsp. minced shallots1 Tbsp. minced garlic2 tsp. white vinegar1½ litres chicken stock2 tsp. honey1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme 3 chorizo sausages, cooked and crumbled ½ cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Placeparsnips in a medium-size mixing bowl,drizzle with olive oil and season withsalt and pepper. Place parsnips on abaking sheet lined with parchmentpaper. Roast parsnips in the oven for 30minutes until they are lightlycaramelized and tender. Add a dollop of olive oil to a 4-litre potset over medium-high heat. Addonions, carrots, celery and leeks to thepot and sweat, stirring for 6 minutes.Add shallots and garlic and sweat, stir-ring, for 1 minute. Deglaze the panwith vinegar. Add chicken stock,parsnips, honey and thyme to the pot.Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.Simmer 30 minutes, until vegetables aretender. Puree to a smooth, velvetyconsistency. Add chorizo and cream.Taste, adjust seasonings, and serve hot.

Pick up your Valentine’s dinner-to-go,

join us for a deelish lunch,

stock up on delectables, or just

drop in for a fine cuppa joe!

Check out our

Valentines Menu

at feysandhobbs.com

2249 Oak Bay AvenueVictoria, BC

250-590-5761feysandhobbs.com

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good for you — by Pam Durkin

Earthly VeggiesRoot vegetables are the perfect antidote to winter. LONG THOUGHT OF as comforting dinnertime staples, root vegetables rarely get therecognition they deserve as nutritional all-stars. They are, in fact, nutrient power-houses that can enhance our health and fuel our bodies, particularly throughout thecold winter months when other vegetables are not readily available or at their peak.Here’s a closer look at four root vegetables whose nutritional profile far exceeds theirhumble reputation. Sweet PotatoesDespite their moniker, sweet potatoes are not related to potatoes. Norare they yams, which are actually huge root vegetables grown in Africa and hailingfrom the Dioscorea genus. The colourful tubers beloved to North Americans are mem-bers of the morning glory family, and in addition to being sweet, they are remarkablynutritious. In fact, the Center for Science in the Public Interest awarded sweet potatoesits highest ranking of all vegetables based on their wealth of nutrients and disease-fighting potential. What has the scientific community so impressed? Sweet potatoesare teeming with a trio of antioxidants—carotenoids, polyphenols and flavonoids—which have been proven to help prevent macular degeneration, age-related cognitivedecline and lung, breast, kidney and colorectal cancer. Besides antioxidants, sweetpotatoes also contain impressive amounts of vitamins B6, C, E and folate, as well aspotassium, magnesium and fibre. Furthermore, despite their candy-like taste, sweetpotatoes are low in calories and have a stabilizing effect on blood sugar levels. Theyare, undoubtedly, one sweet treat you can indulge in with impunity! Rutabagas They may not be the most aesthetically appealing vegetable in theproduce aisle, but rutabagas are winners when it comes to providing excellent nutri-tion for little cost. Often mistakenly called “yellow turnips,” rutabagas are brassicas, agenus of plants in the cabbage family. Like other members of the cabbage clan, rutaba-gas are chock full of isothiocyanates—sulfuric compounds that can lower levels ofharmful estrogens and stimulate cancer-preventing enzymes. The piquant root is alsoa surprisingly good source of vitamin C, with one cup providing 53 percent of theRDA for the vitamin. It’s also abundant in fibre, an essential component of a diet thatcan help lower cholesterol and improve digestive health. In addition, rutabagascontain a fair amount of manganese, a trace mineral that plays an important role inbone health and wound healing. Try pleasing your palate and improving your healthby expanding your “rutabaga repertoire.” Have it grated raw in salads, thinly sliced androasted in the oven as “chips” or mashed and added to meatloaf for a robust flavourboost. Parsnips This often overlooked, decidedly underrated veggie deserves more than asecond glance. Along with carrots and celery, parsnips are members of theUmbelliferae family. Members of this tribe contain a specific group of phytonutrientscalled phenolic acids—compounds that fight cancer by inhibiting tumour growth.The pale root is also a good source of heart-friendly potassium and an excellent sourceof vitamin C, folate and fibre. In fact, parsnips contain twice as much fibre as theirbrightly coloured cousins, carrots. Furthermore, they’re one of the very few abundantsources of vitamin K, a nutrient that plays a crucial role in preventing blood clottingand osteoporosis. To ensure the parsnips you purchase are full of their characteristicsweetness, Darin Brise of the Root Cellar suggests selecting only those that areuniformly white, free of ridges and devoid of any “slimy spots.” Overgrown parsnipscan unfortunately taste rather bitter. Beets When you think of superfoods, beets don’t immediately come to mind—butthey should. The crimson orbs are a unique source of phytonutrients called betalainsthat have been proven to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and detoxificationproperties. And their bright red colour comes from betacyanins, plant pigments thathelp knock out cancer cells. In addition to powerful phytonutrients, beets contain aplethora of beneficial vitamins and minerals like folate, iron, manganese, magnesiumand potassium, as well as the amino acid tryptophan. Though beets have the highestsugar content of any vegetable, they are high in fibre and low in calories—one cup ofcooked beets contains a waistline-friendly 53 calories. Their sugar content gives theman earthy sweetness enhanced by roasting—but they’re equally delicious steamed,boiled, pickled, juiced or grated raw into salads.



food matters — by Julie Pegg

The Cabbage PathRAW, shredded, braised, brined, fried, steamed—white, green, red, smooth or crinkle-leaved—cabbage and I have enjoyed a long relationship. Good thing too. This past fallI was inundated with the stuff. It started mid-September while on a press trip in south-ern Alberta with Stephanie Kolk’s version of sauerkraut at JoJo’s café at Kayben Farms.The young chef does not crock-ferment the vegetable in the traditional manner. Rather,she salts, presses and weighs down layers of shredded cabbage and lets it “marinade” fora week or two. The outcome is more of a crunchy, pickled slaw—delicious served warmwith a homemade smoked lamb and pork sausage. A few days later, I am again tucking into a heap of sauerkraut, this time at Mutter

Hoppe in Berlin. Like many Alt Berliner “taverns” scattered about the city, Mutter Hoppedishes up curt service and classic German fare—bratwurst, eisbein (pork knuckle) andbouletten (a savoury large and flattened meatball) with potatoes and sauerkraut,naturlich. Wine-soaked and at once sweet, sour and salty, this is brined cabbage at itsbest. I polish off a goodly amount as well as what my husband is unable to finish. Themenu also features Grunkohlsuppe, a hearty cabbage potage laced with bacon, potatoand onion. After a three and half hour chilly trek through the former DDR, this is rib-sticking comfort. Cabbage rolls at the nearby Georghaus microbrewery are not the tight,meat-and-rice, tomato-sauced packets I am used to. They are hearty wads of ground porkrolled in a large leafy blanket and pooled in a rich, dark sauce. Washed down with ahopped helles (light) or malty dunkel (dark) lager, they, too, fit the bill on a raw, rainyday.A week later while ambling through Prague’s side streets, well off the ultra-touristed

Charles Bridge, Steve and I stumble upon cozy hideaways coated in patinas of well-worntapestry and frequented by locals. Here forest mushrooms and braised red cabbage area spot-on match for game. Soft, plummy Moravian wines, usually from Saint Laurentgrapes, flatter the sweet earthy flavours of the dishes.

Was I tiring of following this inadvertent cabbage path? Not at all.The texture, taste and tang of the cabbage always surprised. The cook who roasted

duck in one haunt had clearly braised the cabbage in the bird’s fat. In another, juniper-berry-studded cabbage accompanied wild boar and rabbit stew.Back in a British “caff” (a.k.a. greasy spoon), I tucked into bubble and squeak, a fry-

up of cabbage, potatoes and onion, so-called for the noise it makes while cooking andexcellent with cold roast beef. Then there is Irish colcannon, where potatoes, whitecabbage (or kale) and leeks collapse into butter and cream. Absolutely nothing faresbetter with baked ham.Like the beet, the carrot and the turnip, the common cabbage defies cold weather,

stores well, is packed with nutrients—and is as cheap as borsch. Then there are napaand Savoy cabbages. Not the dense smooth orbs that we know so well, these cabbagesare pretty things, with crinkly green leaves that separate easily. They are, for instance,responsible for kimchi, that fiery Korean “pickle” that reeks to high heaven if you don’tkeep a lid on it. Savoy cabbage also makes excellent cabbage rolls. I like to roll the leavesaround seasoned ground pork or turkey (no rice) and braise in beefy, onion broth. Coarse-sliced red or green cabbage combine with red onion, radishes, fennel, carrot

and celeriac for an ideal winter slaw, tossed about with a few pumpkin seeds for crunch.It’s tasty with leftover roast, even tastier piled beside a burger.And chopped steamed cabbage and bratwurst, a couple of slices of pumpernickel,

grainy mustard and a bottle of Pilsner is one of my favourite meals in minutes.The lowly cabbage is not the tender asparagus of early spring, or the ripe, heritage

tomato of late summer. However, its humble and easy-going nature is its very charm.Whether roughed up, salted, sauced or pickled, it demands little of the cook and playshappily by itself or in a pan with just a few ingredients. It costs little and delivers much.In any case, I’m a fan. Perhaps I did indeed come from a cabbage patch.

Follow the versatile brassica from rural Alberta to ultra-urban Berlin, savouring its many flavours.

royalbcmuseum.bc.ca#bcbevs

BC Bites & BeveragesRich in Food: Revitalizing traditional food on the Northwest Coast

Join cookbook authors Dolly McRae and Annie Watts, together with ethnobotanist Dr Nancy Turner, as they tell the story of the native food movement of the Northwest coast. Enjoy Indigenous tapas and tips on how to prepare and preserve the natural harvest. Get your tickets today.

Thursday, January 177 – 9 pm Member $35 +HST Non-member $40 +HST



Padella Italian Bistro

reporter — Victoria

The Crooked Goose Bistro opened at Wilkinson and Interurban in

early November and was near full each time I visited in its first two

weeks. “At least 30 people have been here every single day, for at

least a drink,” says partner Gina Basra (Zambri’s), eyes glowing, con-

veying not an ounce of the fatigue and toil that she, Steve Watson

(Brasserie L’Ecole, Zambri’s), chef Chris Bremner (Lumiere, Culinary

Capers), Andrew Moffat and Ben Peterson (Heron Rock) have ex-

pended completely renovating this longtime bar/pub hub themselves.

Two solid months of sweat, focus and industry-lifer expertise.

The name Crooked Goose Bistro reflects the area: proximity to the

Galloping Goose, the incessant echo of the plentiful Canada geese

nearby as well as a tip of the hat to the predecessor, the Knockan-

back, named after a hill up the road.

On my first visit, I sat at a booth over mimosas with a close friend.

It was cozy and intimate. We chose the Poor Little Piggy burger with

a side of chicken confit poutine and the Crooked Goose burger with

mushroom soup. The “piggy” burger is a local pork patty with pulled

pork, Hertel’s bacon and smoked cheddar. It was moist, the contrast

and play of textures rich, satisfying and deeply tasty, and the house-

made bun the best I have ever enjoyed. The chicken confit poutine

was tender, salty and satisfying. The mushroom soup, with portabella

and button mushrooms with a garlic cream broth, was both light and

luscious and I could have just supped on that all evening. The Crooked

Goose burger was a blend of pork, grass-fed beef and foie gras. This

was a new animal to me—feral, gamey, unusual and quietly extrava-

gant. The menu seems consciously to play with texture while deliver-

ing good, solid food done extremely well.

I sat in the sports area for my second visit sampling the calamari and

the wings, along with the beef jerky Caesar and a Crooked Juice

(sage-infused bourbon, cranberry and soda). I expected deep fried

calamari but was greeted with pan-fried calamari with a charred

lemon vinaigrette co-mingling with hot, crisp onion rings nestled on a

bed of balsamic-stewed radicchio. It was surprising, crispy and tender.

The stewed radicchio provided a fragrant, bitter base that worked

beautifully. The plump cornmeal-crusted wings with a thick Roquefort

dip were delicious.

On my most recent outing, I enjoyed the Caesar salad with lar-

doons and fried capers, and the mushroom soup with a White Bark.

I had a bite of the messy, gorgeous porchetta sandwich: slow-roasted

pork with chimichurri sauce and smoked onion jam as well as a bit of

a kid’s cheeseburger and fries. The service, the food, the space were

all seamless and lovely.

Crooked Goose Bistro is a wide space of booths, café tables, bar

stools and restaurant seating. A raised area houses a single flat-screen

TV for sports. The space is welcoming whether you’re up for casual

or something nicer, a relaxed special coffee at the window or an an-

niversary dinner. This is a venture that complements and furthers fan-

tastic food by great people in Victoria. And I hear the chorizo hash

is terribly addictive …

BY GILLIE EASDON

Crooked Goose Bistro | 4136 Wilkinson Rd., Victoria | 250-590-4556 | crookedgoosebistro.ca

Crooked Goose Bistro

left: Grilled kalamari chili marinated squid rings, sweet & sour radicchio & CGB Lager battered onionrings. right: "The Crooked Goose" moniker came from their proximity to both the Galloping Gooseand the Wilkinson jail.

Elizabeth Nyland

Gary H

ynes

above: Chef John-Paul Turions and Padella owner Geoff Parker.insert: Spaghetti with clams, chili, garlic and olive oil.

Padella Italian Bistro, located in the former Paprika restaurant in Estevan Village, is a lively, casual bistro;

the kind of restaurant you can walk into on the spur of the moment for drinks and a bite.

Owner Geoff Parker brings an extensive background in the food and beverage industry to the restaurant.

He helped to open Vista 18 and, before coming to Victoria, worked in several wine bars in south London,

UK and in the French Alps. Working in Europe changed his view on restaurants, after seeing how “people

in Europe eat because they want to, not because they have to and always for the love of food”. He would

love to see “some of the Euro-

pean wine bar influence come to

Victoria” as well. Parker, with 20

years in the industry, says “it has

been, and always will be, a

passion and love (for food)” that

keeps him in the business.

Parker has brought in John-Paul

Turions to be Padella’s head chef.

Turions has an impressive resume

in the business as well, having

worked at Camilles, The Black

Hat, Stage, and Rare (Vancou-

ver), among others. Turions’ menu

scoots through Italy, not restricting

itself to any specific region. You’ll

see influences from southern Italy

in the Linguini with spiced pork

sausage and sauce arrabiatta

(Parker’s wife’s favorite dish),

central Italy gets Pappardelle

with a chicken liver ragu, and

there’s even a North American-

Italian dish, Cioppino, a fish stew

that originated in San Francisco.

Parker and Turions have also rid

the menu of a traditional, Italian-

style menu construction—primi,

secondi, etc. —and instead have

gone with a more open-ended

CONT’D TOP OF THE NEXT PAGE

Padella Italian Bistro | 2524 Estevan Ave., Victoria | 250.592.7424 |padellaitalianbistro.com



Drive, walk or bike west across either one of Victoria’s bridges and you enter what people are nowreferring to as ‘the Baking District’. If you don’t get across the bridges often, you may have missedrecent developments, which have earned the community its new nickname. In addition to Fol Epi at Dock-side Green and Fry’s on Craigflower Rd, the Lone Tree Bakery has now rooted at the Vic West/Esquimalt border. After two years of baking out of her home kitchen, Terry Worland, who graduated from the pastry

school at SAIT (Calgary) in 2004, was on the lookout for a commercial kitchen from which to grow herbusiness. At the time, Worland was selling her baked goods wholesale to a few independent grocerystores around Victoria and at the Moss St. Market. In July 2011, kitchen space beneath Ho Ting ChineseRestaurant at Craigflower and Dominion Rds. became available and (to the great relief of her husband)Worland moved all the eggs, butter, flour and baking trays over to her new headquarters. A few weekslater, Autumn Maxwell of Cold Comfort joined Worland in the kitchen; her home-based artisan ice creambusiness having also outgrown its domestic kitchen. The baker and the ice cream maker soon discovered how well their products compliment each other,

and when the time came earlier this year to renovate the kitchen, the pair decided to incorporate astorefront from which to sell their goods directly to the customer. So it was that the Lone Tree Bakery/ColdComfort Creamery opened its doors to an excited crowd in early December. A few steps down from the sidewalk, it feels as though you are entering into a little fairy-tale cave of

treats. Open the door and you are faced with a tempting display of Worland’s impeccable delicacies,from individual orange cheesecakes and chocolate caramel tarts to fruit pies, muffins, scones, andgranola. Worland uses all organic flour and oats, Vancouver Island eggs and local fruits in season. Shedescribes her baked goods as having the “homemade touch”, and as someone with a sophisticatedsweet tooth I can attest that these baked goods are exquisitely executed yet unpretentious. Across the room you’ll find a cooler filled with an assortment of Cold Comfort’s irresistible concoctions,

including dairy-free and gluten-free selections. At last count, Maxwell had created over 170 uniqueflavour combinations with her ice cream sandwiches, pints and now ice cream pies. As she explains it,this ice cream is “curiously-flavoured, seasonally inspired, and locally hand-crafted”. In other words –nothing you’ll find in the frozen aisle at the supermarket. If you don’t happen to live in Victoria’s newBaking District, it’s certainly worth a visit. Whatever it is that is drawing all these bakers across the water,the locals are grateful. BY REBECCA BAUGNIET

Lone Tree Bakery and Cold ComfortCreamery809 Craigflower Rd. | 778-432-2070

approach to allow diners to choose how they dine. Go for small bites or settle in for a multi-course night.

Padella is focused on using local ingredients and making as many menu items from scratch as their

small kitchen will allow. Turions and his sous chef arrive at Padella early in the morning to make all the

fresh pastas by hand—often making pasta up to three times a day when busy. When they can’t do some-

thing in-house, like the charcuterie, they call local makers (all of their charcuterie comes from The Whole

Beast on Oak Bay Avenue). They also bake all the breads that they serve. The meats and seafood are

locally sourced, with mussels coming from Saltspring, pork and poultry from farms up-island, and trout

from Sooke. The kitchen still makes the house sausages that Paprika was known for, but they’ve been

given an Italian makeover.

To start, we had the Polpette (house made meatballs) and the crowd-pleasing Arancini (risotto

croquettes sporting a satisfying breadcrumb-y exterior). Delicious. For mains, we had the trout and the

linguini. The Sooke trout is filleted and deboned, then pan-grilled. It comes with potato hash, green filet

beans, chunks of bacon and a light, savoury jus. The new sausage turns up in the linguini —it now has a

nice kick of heat, garlic, and spice. You can also try the sausage as a main course with white beans and

mostardo. Both dishes were excellent, showing the kitchen’s skill and precision, and were served in rea-

sonable, but satisfying, portions.

For the drinks menu, longtime server Vincent has created new, Italian-style cocktails. For wines, there

are five whites and five reds by the glass, as well as a good bottle selection.

Desserts are kept simple. The addition of Fernet—a bitter, herbal Italian spirit— adds complexity to a

very good chocolate mousse. The panna cotta, with a layer of strawberry preserve, is a smooth, light

delight.

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At first glance, tapas might seem like an overdone and outdated concept for Vancouver. We’ve had our

share of share-plate dining, after all. The authentic tastes of Spanish cuisine are another matter entirely,

however, and have, for the most part, long been a culinary mystery. Now with the opening of places

like The Sardine Can and, most recently, España, there is hope that authentic Spanish flavour might be-

come just another good Friday night dining option.

That authenticity rings strong and true at España. Chef Neil Taylor and manager Ed Perrow (who are

also the co-owners), have together created a comfy and soothing little room in the West End where a

seat at the long, polished bar means you have a close-up view of some of the stellar Spanish bottles that

grace the beverage list. In fact, don’t bother looking for B.C. or California reds on this menu, it’s all

about Spain here—and everything is available by the glass.

I started with an excellent cava rosado brut from Cristalino ($9.50), which I paired with rustic duck

liver, anchovy and sherry vinegar pȃté on country toast ($4). Delightful salt cod and potato croquettes($6) were next and were crispy, flaky, light and creamy, all at the same time, with a slightly pulpy orange

aioli that didn’t overstate the citrus. Sautéed, then roasted, octopus ($8) was almost fork-tender, but still

able to hold up to the housemade chorizo, potatoes and radicchio in the dish. It’s hearty, beautiful food

presented in small plates that are still large enough to be shared properly, and priced well enough to

allow you to indulge in multiple dishes. Crispy pork belly ($10) was another winner, served over creamy

white beans and topped with housemade romesco.

The menu is small and seasonal, so expect changes frequently, but count on various charcuterie and

Spanish cheeses to always round out the mix, along with a truly fine sherry list, small but select. For a

great finish, try the sherry flights, either three dry or three sweet sherries for $11 or $16

BY ANYA LEVYKH

vancouver

España |1118 Denman St., Vancouver | 604.558.4040 | espanarestaurant.ca

España

The room is slightly smaller, the bar is slightly longer and the wine and craft brew list is considerably

expanded, but Forage, the new restaurant replacing the long-standing O’Doul’s at the Listel Hotel, is—

as its name might suggest—all about sustainability. According to executive chef Chris Whittaker, one of

Vancouver’s most under-sung (undeservedly so) culinary talents, it’s not about 100-mile menus—coffee,

tea, lemons and salt are all available—but a more holistic focus. The kitchen hood vent uses 50 percent

less BTUs than the commercial standard, the burners are pressure sensitive to reduce energy, and the

entire restaurant is designed to maximize efficiency and minimize waste. The partnerships with Green

Table, BC Hydro, Ocean Wise and other sustainability groups might make this the most sustainable

restaurant in Western Canada.

As for the food, “It’s about 70 percent B.C., 20 percent from the Pacific Northwest and rest of Canada,

and the remainder from international sources,” says Whittaker. It’s a practical approach that is also

indicative of Whittaker’s unique philosophy on what constitutes sustainability. That view means no beef

on the menu because of its high methane output, not even local, grass-fed varieties. Instead, look for local

lamb and pork, wild venison and bison, and sustainable seafood galore.

The menu is categorized by serving style, rather than ingredient, so $5 snacks include pork and duck

cracklings with popcorn and crispy spiced kale and apple chips that are ridiculously addictive. A

bannock-style pan bread ($6) off the “Irons” menu is skillet-roasted with Golden Ears cheddar and a

lightly spiced honey. A deep dish of albacore tuna ($20), seared rare, sits on a drool-worthy base of

brown-butter gnocchi, chanterelles, hazelnuts and squash, with a blackberry and fir jelly made for

dipping. Wild bison ravioli with grilled matsutake mushrooms ($16) is served open-face and topped

with watercress and crispy parsnip. For dessert, we sampled the pain perdu ($8), served as autumn-

spiced brioche with brie anglaise and hazelnut caramel, courtesy of pastry chef Welbert Choi. It’s a

fantastic team effort that is sure to be sustainable in longevity as well as output.

BY ANYA LEVYKH

Forage | 1300 Robson St., Vancouver | 604.661.1400 | foragevancouver.com

Forage

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Minami Minami | 1118 Mainland St. | 604.685.8080 | www.minamirestaurant.comSushi in Vancouver is so popular that it deserves to be its own food group. So, when another sushi

restaurant opens up in Yaletown, it may not necessarily strike one as cause for comment. Minami, how-

ever, is not just another sashimi-slinging joint. Specializing in aburi, a form of nigiri that is partly flame-

grilled and partly raw, the menu at Minami is an eclectic mix of traditional and modern Japanese

influences, with a healthy dose of West Coast inclusiveness to round things out.

Ingredients like yuzu, fresh wasabi, lotus root, miso and sesame abound, but it is in the combinations

of east and west that the menu shows its worth. Spring Creek tenderloin aburi nigiri is topped with soy-

glazed foie gras ($6). Slow-roasted beet and watercress salad ($12) comes with yuzu crème fraîche,

fig chutney and yuzu chardonnay vinaigrette. Pair it with Gold Omachi Junmai sake off Minami’s

stellar sake list. Junmai refers to the highly polished quality of the rice. The result is a silky smooth, light,

almost frizzante beverage that holds a hint of melon on the palate, and balances the citrus elements in

the dish.

The sake list is long and complex, and it’s okay to ask for help, especially when there are sake experts

on hand like Miki Ellis, who led us through a tasting that brought out sake’s often overlooked ability to

pair well with multi-course meals. According to Ellis, sake, unlike wine, refreshes the palate, rather than

overloading it with tannins, meaning that constant sipping with multiple courses actually keeps the buds

from overloading.

That was certainly the case on the night we went in for the omakase menu. Multiple courses ranging

from miso-seared sablefish with oyster mushrooms, yuzu foam and kale gomae to local oysters with yuzu

sparkling sake foam, pickled celery and cucumber, and a neat twist on a Rockefeller, with Miku secret

sauce and wasabi relish, showed off the ingenuity of the kitchen, especially executive sous chef Alan

Ferrer, who was responsible for our omakase experience and is the reason I will be returning soon.

BY ANYA LEVYKH

The Parker The Parker | 237 Union Street St., Vancouver | 604.779. 3804 | theparker-vancouver.comVancouver has long been blessed with a thriving cocktail culture, one that shows itself at a multitude of

restaurants showcasing everything from casual comfort food to molecular stylings and multi-course menus.

One glaring exception in all this crafted bounty, however, has always been in the area of vegetarian

dining. It seemed that cocktail-forward and plant-based were two terms destined to live apart, until, that

is, two young lads decided to do something about it.

Chef Jason Liezert and barman Steve da Cruz have worked together before, at the ill-fated but

popular Corner Suite Bistro de Luxe. Now they have come together as co-owners on this new project

and the results are about as cocktail-friendly as they are food-fantastic.

The menu, which changes daily, is all about hyper-local, super-sustainable and very fresh ingredients.

Organic and biodynamic are de rigueur, and the wine list follows suit, with many local Demeter-

certified options. And, despite its vegan leanings, this is food that is full of flavour and richness, like the

delectable gluten-free housemade gnocchi, graced with local mushrooms, Golden Ears cheddar and

fresh thyme. Or the hazelnut dukka—a crumbly nut spread—served with crunchy lotus root chips.

Chickpea fries are almost creamy inside, with light, crispy coatings that maintain their crackle, even

when dipped in the truly outstanding housemade ketchup.

As for the cocktails, they pair perfectly with the food, like the Shiroki, a sparkling wine-sake combo

with apple and yuzu that refreshes the palate the more you sip. Another winner paired local vodka with

walnuts, vanilla and pear liqueur for a lovely match to the gnocchi.

Like the dishes, the cocktails are seasonal and based on what’s available locally. One doesn’t

normally talk about the terroir of a mixed drink, but, in this case, it’s clear that the cocktails show as

much sense of place as the food—which perhaps explains their uncanny ability to pair so well with every-

thing from savoury to sweet dishes like the hand-rolled chocolate vegan truffles. I have a feeling doing

a stick-of-butter count might be a daunting proposition, so, instead, I’ll just enjoy the truffles, have a drink,

and—like the menu—make myself at home.

BY ANYA LEVYKH



travel close to home

Eating the Island Jeremy Ferguson reviews two of the best Tofinorestaurants.

HOW COULD IT POSSIBLY have been so long? The Pointe at the Wick is into its 16thyear. It hasn’t changed much, still defining rustic elegance, still delivering that wrap-around view of the ocean and Chesterman Beach (and the piped-in sounds eight-metre-high waves crashing in from Japan in the winter months).There are smallish, stylish changes in keeping with the inn’s $2.7-million reno ear-

lier this year: new hand-woven runners from Italy, new tabletops and in a blow for ro-mance, tables for two with both seats facing the ocean. Plus, more tasting menus anda sensible option allowing you to split starters between two choices at no extra charge.At the stoves is exec chef Nick Nutting, a former chef de partie returned with his own

sense of contemporary coast cuisine, mostly fish and seafood with inventive prepara-tions and pairings.Nutting likes marrying silk and satin textures to audible crunch: he pan-fries ling-

cod and pairs it with prosciutto deep-fried in a spring-roll wrapper, a sweet-and-salty,soft-and-crisp riff on surf-and-turf, and it takes right off.And the tower, good grief, is back: a substantial slab of sablefish arrives under a

sprawling mop of micro-greens under an unruly frizzle of deep-fried turnip.“Outlandish Carbonara” brings a deconstructed pasta — seared Quadra Island scal-

lop sausage, clams and bacon with ink-blackened noodles, a sous-vide egg the binder,to deliver a kick that transcends the sum of its parts. And pastry chef Matt Wilson has come with up a most seductive dessert based on

local coffee guy (Tofino Coffee Co.) Michael Farrow’s fine espresso. He devises a cof-fee ice cream cake, sets it on a base of Muscovado sugar jelly, crumbles caramelized cof-fee beans over it and garnishes it with biscotti and molecular biscotti foam. Coffeehits you every which way, as jelly, as silky ice cream, as crackling coffee beans—rea-son enough for coffee aficionados to be trekking to Tofino.

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Redefining surf-and-turf, ling cod paired with deep-fried prosciutto at thePointe restaurant, Wickaninnish Inn

Carol C

lemens

Best of both worlds

7th Annual

The Pointe at the Wickaninnish Inn | 500 Osprey LaneTofino | 250.725.3106 | www.wickinn.com

The Pointe at the Wickaninnish Inn



The whole beast

- -

Carol C

lemens

She cooks, he manages and they’re coastal legend. The trajectory of Lisa and ArtieAhier zigzagged from running the exclusive Cibalo Creek Ranch in West Texas to threeyears in a catering truck before they established SoBo—“Sophisticated Bohemian”—asTofino’s most winning independent resto.And the legend is about to spread: Random House is set to publish The SoBo Cook-

book next year. At lunch, Ahier turns out the best deep-fried oysters in town or, for that matter, all

of B.C. when the mood strikes, gilding her bivalve lily with jalapeño, avocado andtequila for a tempest of sweet, salty, hot and sour. I might not die for her oysters. ButI’d probably kill for them.

The dinner menu is unusually inclusive, something for everyone at amiable prices,starting with a slate of pizzas classily topped with Parmigiano-Reggiano and dressedwith the likes of house-smoked chicken and whisky habañero barbecue sauce. Not adull bite in the room.There is duck confit and enchilada with green-chili- braised chicken and fish taco

seething with spices that reflect chef’s background in the American Southwest. Herflavours aren’t big, they’re gargantuan. “Lisa,” says Artie wryly, “is not fond of subtle.”(And neither are we, not here.)Turning to fish, ceviche nestles marinated halibut, scallops and prawns in a basket

of blue corn chips, the natural flavours intact courtesy of a relatively brief spin in thelime juice. When it comes to ceviche, Ahier could teach our Mexican cantinas a thingor two.“Left Coast” seafood stew brings a glorious mélange of halibut, scallops, mussels and

clams in rich-tasting tomato-fennel broth, Tofino’s response to bouillabaisse. And frommy experience—yes, I realize this is heresy—it’s even more pleasing than its Marseillescousin.

Sobo | 311 Neill Street, Tofino | 250.725.2341 | www.sobo.ca

Sobo

Sobo's Fried Oysters and Polenta Chips


Pictured left: Chicken Roti wrapabove: Owner/Chef: Nirmala andJeffrey Singh

What’s behind the name of the Trinidadian dish “Buss Up Shut”? I had to have it spelled out for me. It means “busted up shirt.” Foodwise, it is a buttery, flaky, airy naan substi-

tute that I enjoyed with some curried goat at this new Trinidadian restaurant. To create it, roti dough is rolled into a ball. Once it’s cooking, the chef takes two sticks and beats it

until it looks like a tattered, torn – and busted up – shirt. A cross between a croissant and flaky pie pastry, the bread was perfect for scooping up the gamey, cumin-infused goat

curry. This Saturday special for $13 also included a light chickpea curry.

You don’t come to Trini to D Bone, the newest addition to Victoria’s multicultural food scene, for atmosphere. Unless of course you’re hankering for the décor of a 1985 social

services waiting room. But I don’t care. You come here for the food. As owner Nirmala says, in what I would love to see become an anti-slick-marketing motto, “Whatever I serve

at home, that’s what you’re getting.” Go another day and, for $9.50, you might luck upon a special of stewed pork and dumplings—no fancy names here! Nirmala uses the tech-

nique of caramelization to achieve the complex flavour. The pork is seared in sugar and seasoned with cilantro, chives, garlic, green onions and Trinidadian curry spices.

All the dishes can be takeout, but the easiest one to grab and go is the chicken roti wrap for $9.50. Again, the baking skills are evident: the roti is soft and flavourful, stuffed with

chicken and a mild chickpea-potato curry. It can all be jacked up with a homemade hot sauce, heavy on habanero and cilantro. The vegetarian version could include spinach or

pumpkin on top of the potato-chickpea mix. This restaurant is just off Interurban, near the federal Plant Sciences building and not far from the Victoria General Hospital in one

direction and Tillicum Mall in the other. Worth darting off major roads to check out.


Trinidad to Tibet With a stop at a Nourish-ing garden in between.

Trini to D Bone | 650 Burnside Rd. W. | 778-440-6755

Elizabeth Nyland

eating well for less — by Elizabeth Smyth Monk



Metchosin lamb curry served with lentil soup, black rice and hand rolledpoonies

Elizabeth Nyland

Tibetan Kitchen, 680 Broughton St. nearDouglas, 250-383-5664

Tibetan food has elements of Indian and Chinese cuisine but also some significant

differences. It doesn’t use dairy, as Indian cuisine does, and it doesn’t use fish sauce,

as Chinese cuisine does. This fusion is seen in Tibetan Kitchen’s delicious Organic

Quinoa Stir-fry, on the lunch menu for $11. The seasonings for this dish, on top of the

fragrant cumin, coriander and lashings of garlic, are both soya sauce and curry—China

meets India. Curries come with a small lentil soup and two puris—puffy, airy flying

saucers of bread—which makes for a satisfying lunch. The Metchosin Farm Lamb Curry

has a beautiful deep ochre tone and a rich creaminess thanks to its cashew base. Like

all the curries, it comes with a brown basmati and black wild rice mixture; the wild rice

imparts a deep purplish tone to the dish, making it visually dramatic as well as tasty.

The beef fried rice for $11 was a pleasant surprise and a far cry from what I’ve had

in Chinese restaurants. It is, in fact, a meal on its own: plenty of good quality AAA beef,

snow peas and broccoli. And you can’t leave Tibetan Kitchen without sharing a plate

of momos, a signature item of the restaurant, with your friends. These large dumplings

are stuffed with vegetables or pork and come with a dipping sauce fragrant with

cilantro. For more on chef-owner Pemba Doma and her Tibetan Kitchen, keep an eye

out in January on the Food Network; she’ll be featured in an episode of You Gotta Eat

Here.



Sleeping Beauty Pancakewith poached local plums

Nourish | 505 Quayle Rd. off Interurban (HorticulturalCentre of the Pacific) | 250-590-6346

This is a special, hidden-away place. Enter the gardens of the Horticultural Centre of

the Pacific, and you’ll see one building that looks like a dull and functional trailer,

with a small sign saying “Nourish.” Take a few steps in, and it turns into a Narnia-like

experience: the dull cupboard opens up to a pastoral vista. The restaurant has an in-

door section with broad windows and two sheltered decks from which to view the

gardens and a distant pond—a combination of rustic and romantic.

The food matches the wholesomeness of the view. The breakfast menu includes the

Sleeping Beauty Pancake for $11, a buttermilk-oatmeal-cranberry confection with the

texture of a moist banana bread and served with a bowl of braised local plums. I am

ever grateful to restaurants that make it possible to feed small children in a healthy and

affordable way, and so I commend them for offering a single of this pancake for only

$3. Their version of the benny ($12) is fascinating; the poached egg is served on sweet

potato, and the deep yellow sauce is a blend of softened pureed cashews, canola oil,

nutritional yeast and turmeric. The lunch menu generally offers a soup, a sandwich,

two hot dishes, and, for $5, a snacking plate of hummus with baguette or raw vegeta-

bles—another way to include small children. The beef cheeks stew with parsnip and

carrot noodles is a rich mix of tender meat and lentils, with the fruity top note of an

Asian pear chutney. The long “noodles” are actually raw parsnip and carrot. And while

certainly wholesome and visually appealing, these would have been better on the side

Elizabeth Nyland

Open 7 days a week

5325 Cordova Bay Rd. 250-658-3116

Our service can best be described as“Knowledgeable,

yet not pretentious……approachable,

with a hint of sass!”

ON THIS FARM THERE ARE SOME WINE CHICKS...

a tMATTICK’S FARM

www.vqawineshop.ca

VQA Wine Shop"Beat the Winter Blues where buying wine is FUN!"



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or cooked to a slight softness. I experienced a mechanical difficulty; the long, stiff

strings tended to fling hot gravy around, specifically at me.

Desserts here are fabulous. An apple crumble for $4.25 includes both roasted and

dried apples, almonds and quinoa, and is served with whipped cream or coconut

whipped cream, depending on availability. It is also offered in a breakfast portion. In

line with its commitment to good health, Nourish offers an unbeatable special: on

weekends, if you show up looking sweaty, having just worked out or come off the run-

ning and cycling trails that pass near it, you qualify for a two-for-the-price-of-one

breakfast (as chosen by the restaurant). If I could bear the thought of exercise, I would

certainly spend a Saturday morning on the trails and end the morning here (and then

pick up a Trinidadian dish for dinner, since Trini is not far away.) Note that the restau-

rant is closed for the holidays until January 12.

While driving to a hiking trip in the Rockies last summer, my wife and I stumbled upon

an “organic restaurant” sign five minutes outside Golden, B.C., and just below the

Kicking Horse Ski Resort. (Note: the sign has since been changed to “True Rocky

Mountain Dining” as they don’t always have just organic food on the menu.) We followed the sign

off the highway and onto a winding road up the mountain across from the fabled ski hill.

After a short drive, we arrived at Cedar House Restaurant and Chalets, a 10-acre, heavily wooded

site with a handful of green-built cabins scattered over the grounds and a 40-seat restaurant with a

long, fir bar overlooking an open kitchen under the direction of Max Charbonneau.

The Quebec-bred chef worked at several restaurants at the Mont Tremblant ski hill before moving

to the Rockies in 1999. The self-described “passionate skier and mountain biker” immediately fell in

love with the mountains surrounding Golden.

Charbonneau trained under European masters such as Sunshine Village executive chef Martin

Brenner and Delta Banff Royal Canadian Lodge’s former executive chef Hans Hacker while work-

ing as sous chef in Banff. He moved to Cedar House Restaurant a year ago and “loves to create

dishes with fresh, local ingredients inspired by classic French cuisine.”

Cedar House is on the Top 50 Places to Eat in Canada list and was chosen one of the nation’s

Top 20 Weekend Getaways by enRoute magazine. Darrin DeRosa, another ski and wilderness en-

thusiast, bought and began renovating Cedar House in 2008. His chalets have from one to five bed-

rooms, kitchens, flat-screen televisions, down duvets, and washer/driers as well as patios with hot tubs

and gas-fuelled barbecues. Some feature hybrid, passive/active heating and cooling systems and

roof rainwater collection systems for the extensive gardens.

Those gardens provide most of the restaurant’s organic fruit, vegetables and herbs in the spring

and summer. Charbonneau loves cooking duck confit, scallops and risotto and makes a killer Banof-

fee pie for dessert. His personal weakness is French fries in duck fat and Chinese pork dumplings.

After appetizers of seared scallops and garden greens, my wife and I shared the chef’s Crispy Skin

Brome Lake Duck Breast with warm, beluga lentil salad, apple and rosemary puree and black cur-

rant sauce with a medley of fresh vegetables from the garden as well as a perfectly grilled beef ten-

derloin with Yukon Gold potato gratin, truffled veal jus and veggies.

Chef’s German-bred partner, Sabine Klauck, manages front of house and offers a well-curated wine

list featuring Okanagan favourites from Tinhorn Creek, Summerhill and Hester Creek. During our

visit, the restaurant was celebrating a month-long German Riesling showcase. We tried several with

our meal and shared a dessert of Semifredo Mocha Cognac Prune Terrine before strolling to our

quiet, comfy chalet for a deep sleep. Imagine a Rocky Mountain Sooke Harbour House.

The Cedar House kitchen closed for holidays in mid-October. The restaurant re-opens December

7. Watch for wine tasting and tapas events in the New Year and Charbonneau’s special Christmas

martini, a secret recipe that includes pomegranate liquor, Calvados and cinnamon, during the holi-

days.

BY JOSEPH BLAKE

Cedar House Restaurant & Chalets | 735 Hefti Rd., Golden, B.C. |cedarhousechalets.com

Cedar House Restaurant & Chalets



22

local kitchen



Recipes and food styling by JENNIFER DANTER Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY

Art Direction by GARY HYNES

Sick of winter already? A warming brunch can be the antidote. Cook in your

pyjamas, rock the bedhead and unabashedly savour the drippy pleasure of

cheesy toasts and a wintry salad of roasted squash and hearty greens. A

cocktail blending apple cider with whiskey and warming spices will put a

rosy glow on your cheeks. Grab the Scrabble board and let the games begin.

3 Tbsp butter

1 garlic clove, minced

1 large bunch spinach, chopped

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

1½ cups homogenized milk

1½ tsp Dijon mustard

Pinches of sea salt, black pepper and ground nutmeg

3-oz crumbled blue cheese

8 slices rye bread, toasted

2 pears, sliced into thin wedges

Melt 1 Tbsp butter in a frying pan set over medium heat. Add garlic andstir until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then add spinach. Stir until wilted, 1to 2 min. Remove from heat and set aside. When cool, squeeze out excessliquid.Melt remaining 2 Tbsp butter in a medium saucepan over low heat.

Whisk in flour. Whisk constantly until mixture bubbles and turns lightgolden, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in milk until evenly mixed andlump-free. Add Dijon, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir often until warm andbubbly, 2 minutes. Gradually add cheese, stirring well between additions,until melted. Stir in spinach. Taste and adjust seasonings.Preheat broiler to high. Place toasts on a baking sheet. Generously spoon

spinach-cheese mixture overtop, then finish with pears. Broil until bubbly,1 to 2 minutes. Serve warm. If you have any chutney kicking around thenether regions of your fridge, bring it on.

CONT’D ON NEXT PAGE

West Coast BluebitThis is a twist on traditional Welsh rarebit: creamy spinach meets blue cheese on slabs of toasty rye bread. Caution: Dish is rich and may cause drowsi-

ness. Avoid operating heavy machinery. Serves 4.

Doctors’ orders: A wintry brunch, warmingcocktails and an afternoon game of Scrabble.

BR

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CHEESY TOASTS & A WINTRY SALAD

Eat, Quaff, Play


24


M e m b e r o f P r e f e r r e d H o t e l s ® & R e s o r t s

463 BELLEVILLE STREET, VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA V8V 1X3 1.800.663.7550 | www.hotelgrandpacific.com

A contemporary take on the traditional afternoon tea featuring Green Tea Cured Wild Salmon Lox, Cowichan Bay Farms Duck Confit, Poached Wild Spot Prawn Brochette, and many other unique dishes. Our food is grown and harvested locally and made from scratch in house.

$38.00 per personReserve today at 250.380.4458

West CoastAfternoon Tea

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ochetwn Brat PrSpoonfit, Parms Duck Cy Fwichan Bawichan Bay FoCed Wila Cureeen Tturing Graea fa feet

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Whisky Cider Snap

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Pour in 1 cup apple cider. Add a few cloves and 1 tspgrated ginger. Top with a generous 2 ounces whiskey (rye or bourbon). Shake well,then strain into 2 glasses. Repeat as necessary!

Honeyed Squash SaladHoney is the hero here. If you stocked up during the summer on different types fromMoss Street market, break out the most bold and gutsy one for this recipe. The roastedveggies go well with robust wintry salad greens. Try mixing up a variety of greens:thick leaves of spinach, baby kale, curly endive or shredded cabbage. Serves 4.

1 butternut or acorn squash, skin on, cut into wedges

2 red onions, cut into wedges

2 to 3 Tbsp olive oil

4 Tbsp local honey

¼ cup chopped hazelnuts (optional)

6 to 8 cups salad greens

2 Tbsp white wine vinegar

1 tsp Dijon mustard

Preheat oven to 400°F. Place veggies on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 1 Tbsp oil andgenerously season with salt and pepper. Roast until crispy around edges and soft incentres, 20 minutes. Drizzle with honey and scatter hazelnuts overtop and continueto roast until toasty, about 5 more minutes.Whisk vinegar with Dijon and remaining oil. Place roasted veggies in a large bowl

and place salad greens on top. Drizzle with dressing and toss to mix.

Downtown 250-383-2121 250-595-0212 d 250-744-1177

Langford 250-474-2121 250-746-9944

5 locations on Vancouver Island

w w w . r o m e o s . c a

w i t h a R o m e o ’ s P i z z a o r B a k e d pa s ta

warming your winter heart

Pizza, Pasta . . .and so much more !



liquid assets —by Larry ArnoldSPARKLINGTaittinger Brut Reserve Champagne NV France$62-70 Founded in 1734, Taittinger is one of the great names inthe Champagne biz. The blend is 40% Chardonnay,35% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier aged for 3 yearson lees before release. Fresh and delicate with subtleflavours of honey and bread dough. Light and elegant.

Charles de Cazanove Tradition Brut ChampagneNV France $50-55Family owned and located in Reims, the heart ofChampagne, the house was founded in 1811. Thisbubble is lip-smacking good. Elegant, with a beautifultight bead and fresh apple, citrus and brioche flavoursthat linger on through the finish.

WHITESSynchromesh Riesling 2011 Okanagan $32-36* Located just outside of Okanagan Falls, Synchromeshmay be one of the new kids on the block but from whatI have tasted so far these folks look like they know whatthey are doing. The 2011 Riesling was a revelation! Veryaromatic, very Riesling. Light, seductive and charming,with a flowery disposition, apricots and a whiff ofpetroleum. There is ample residual sugar, but make nomistake - the sweetness is nicely balanced with a crunchof mouthwatering acidity. Unfortunately only 41 caseswere made.

Devil’s Lair Margaret River Chardonnay 2009Australia $42-47*Having just won, Vancouver Magazine Wine Awards2013 “Best of Show” this Aussie chard from MargaretRiver will not last long on retailer’s shelves. Barrel-

left to right: Chateau Jouclary “Les Amandiers” Cabardes, Adegas Valminor AlbarinoRias Baixas 2011, El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Old Vine Garnacha 2010



DRINKING Guide: How to use our purchasing information. *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may bein limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.

fermented and aged on its lees for 9 months in French oak Devil’s Lair is a beautifulbalance between elegant fruit and toasty oak. Great depth and complexity with citrus,spice and hazelnut aromas. Full-bodied and full-flavoured with a soft creamy textureand a long spicy finish.

Neudorf Moutere Pinot Gris 2011 New Zealand $32-34* The 2011 vintage was voted best New Zealand Pinot Gris at The Age/The SydneyMorning Herald Good Wine Guide Awards in 2012. I can understand why; nothingcan prepare you for a wine like this. Powerful and intense, a symphony of aromasbursting out of the glass: quince, white peach, honey and smoke. On the palate it isluscious and ethereal all at once with layer upon layer of exotic fruit flavours.

Adegas Valminor Albarino Rias Baixas 2011 Spain $23-25*Albarino’s greatest asset is its directness! Adegas Valminor is anything but subtle. It isfresh, it is electric, it is the pointy end of an ice pick! Stick your nose into a glass andtake a deep sniff. The wine shouts out for fresh oysters or perhaps a trio of scallopsshimmering in a light cream sauce. Albarino is the perfect foil for all manner ofsea-bound creature. Straw yellow with an aromatic intensity that can come as a shockto the uninitiated. Citrus, grapefruit, green melon, all can be found within itsshimmering depths! The palate is opulent but the mouthwatering acidity and slightspritz give it a nice edge.

Domaine Rene Mure Pinot Gris Alsace Signature 2010 France $24-26*The Mure family has been making wine in the Alsace since 1650. The family vineyard,Clos St. Landelin was certified organic in 1999 with plans for biodynamic certificationby 2015. This is all very good but the clincher is in the glass. The gris is a dazzler, purepleasure to drink. Fruity, yes, spicy, yes, richly textured and unctuous, mind blowing,with great length and a finish that lingers and lingers.

REDSChateau Jouclary “Les Amandiers” Cabardes 2009 France $22-24* The Languedoc (pronounced long-dock) is a broad, crescent shaped swath of vine-yards and scrub stretching from the Pyrenees, east through southern France. It is thelargest wine-producing province of France and as such, is a good place to look forinteresting wines at reasonable prices. The wines of this little 60-hectare, family-runestate are worth a hard look. This hearty little brute is a blend of Merlot, Syrah andGrenache. It is compact yet powerful, a middleweight that packs a punch. Dark andrefined with lovely spice, bramble and black olive aromas and restrained fresh fruitflavours, with none of that heavy baked fruitiness found in many from the neigh-bourhood. Sleek with a soft tannic structure and a long gritty finish. A very honestCabardes with a real sense of place.

Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2008 Australia $22-26* Wynns Coonawarra Estate was the first winery to be established in the Coonawarra in1896. The region’s famed terra rossa soils are well know for producing fruit ofexceptional quality and this wine does not disappoint. Aged for 18 months in a com-bination of French and American oak this tasty blend is a profusion of up-front, redberry, plum, cedar and anise aromas. Medium-bodied with blackberry and cassisflavours, nicely integrated oak nuances and fine-grained tannins.

Calera Central Coast Pinot Noir 2009 California $42-45* Perched on a ridge, high on Mount Harlan, The Calera Wine Company is an icon ofthe California wine industry. They have been around a long time and are well knownfor making distinctive Pinot Noirs. The fruit for their Central Coast Pinot Noir issourced from seven different vineyards. Delicious. The aroma leaps out of the glass:black cherry, flowers, spice. The nose is elegant, intense and very complex. A firmwine with great depth and length.

El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Old Vine Garnacha 2010 Spain $25-27* This is a terrific Spanish Garnacha (Grenache) from the Navarra, a region just east ofSpain’s famed Rioja. Bright ruby, lovely, savory aromas of violets, spice, dark cherry andwild herbs. Lots of character with delicious ripe fruit flavours and well-integrated oak.Plenty of power but nothing aggressive, just pure, simple pleasure.

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 Italy $35-45* Predominantly Sangiovese with a splash of Cabernet from the estate’s vineyards inPeppoli, Badia a Passignano and Tignanello. Full-bodied and concentrated with redcherry, earth and floral aromas, great depth of flavour with incredible complexity anda blush of fine grained tannins! Dubbed “Baby Tignanello” by Robert Parker.


Que Syrah? Est Shiraz! Though two different names, the grapes are indeed the same. What’s in a name? Well, inthe case of Syrah/Shiraz, a LOT. Over time, the words have come to differentiate the grape stylistically. Syrah denotes old world in style: savoury,

high acid, high tannin, black pepper and dark floral notes. Shiraz as a name lends itself to fruitier examples ofstyle: new world plump ripeness, soft tannins, earth, black licorice. The grape is late budding, very deep in colourand with very high anthocyanins, indicative of texture, longer aging and making friends with oak. The grape itself is ancient – Syrah is the offspring of the grape varieties Dureza (father) and Mondeuse Blanche

(mother), from the Ardèche and Montpellier regions of south eastern France. DNA typing has concluded Syrahoriginated from northern Rhône, though the date of first plantings are unknown. In the year AD 77, Pliny theElder wrote in his Naturalis Historia about the wines of Vienne (today’s Côte-Rôtie), where famous and prizedwine was made from a dark-skinned grape variety that had not existed some 50 years earlier, in Virgil's age. Forcenturies it has been recognized that the spiritual home of Syrah in the northern Rhône are the wines ofHermitage, the hill above the town Tain-l'Hermitage. There is a little hermitage (chapel) built on the top that youcan still hike up and visit today, and where the Knight Gaspard de Stérimberg is supposed to have settled as ahermit after his crusades. The chapel was built in honor of Saint Christopher and today is owned by thenegociant Paul Jaboulet Âiné. Syrah loves granite, especially when it’s well draining and angled on a slope. You may increasingly hear

people volley about the term “cool climate Syrah” and the like, attempting to differentiate the wine’s structureand freshness from the backlash against flabby, warm climate Australian Shiraz (a cloak that Australia as a wholeis still struggling to disrobe).


Syrah

vincabulary - By Treve Ring

*Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may be in limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.

Liberty School Syrah 2008

ORIGIN: Paso Robles, CaliforniaTHE WALLET: $22-26*

ALCOHOL: 13.5% abv

TASTE: Mellow through time

in bottle, this 2008 is a

current release in this

market, and a phenomenal

price if you’re looking for a

well-crafted, pedigreed wine

with some age. Dusty cassis

and light raspberry spice

lead into a silken textured

wine, with tannins worn to

the nub, and a concentrated

cocoa finish. Liberty School

only releases the Syrah to

the Canadian market (lucky

us).

MELLOW

{SEE-rah} {seh-ra} {shir-AZZ}

TorbreckWoodcutters Shiraz 2010

ORIGIN: Barossa Valley, AustraliaTHE WALLET: $33-37

ALCOHOL: 14.5% abv

TASTE: This big, damson,

grilled juicy plum red is

dense, without being heavy.

There is a cooling and rivet-

ing pulse of floral through-

out – violets, iris –

overlaying lush blackberry,

sweet fennel sausage, fresh

black pepper and black

licorice finish.

FLORAL

Nichol VineyardSyrah 2010

ORIGIN: Naramata Bench,Okanagan Valley, BCTHE WALLET: $35-40*

ALCOHOL: 13% abv

TASTE: I love pouring this

wine blind for people. 9 out

of 10 wine pros will peg this

old world. The freshness!

The bright acidity! The

savoury elements! Yes – all

of that, plus an unmistak-

ably alluring dried and fresh

herbal vein. Dark cherry,

pan roasted Christmas spice,

textured and mineral, and

that length… Wow. Oldest

Syrah vines in Canada, on

steep granite.

HERBAL

Reyneke WinesReserve Syrah 2010

ORIGIN: Stellenbosch, South AfricaTHE WALLET: $30-34

ALCOHOL: 14% abv

TASTE: This organic syrah is

like bittersweet cocoa in the

mouth. Powdery, plush,

bittersweet. Intriguing and

mysterious. A bit of dried

currants and polished blue-

berries over an undercurrent

of clay. Medium bodied,

lifted acidity with powdery

cloaked tannins trail a long

finish.

SOFT

M. ChapoutierLes MeysonniersCrozes-Hermitage 2009

ORIGIN: Rhone, FranceTHE WALLET: $27-32

ALCOHOL: 13% abv

TASTE : To me, Syrah IS

northern Rhone. It’s the

style I personally love,

though challenging for

many to conquer. If you’re

not there yet, don’t give up.

Come back later. Grilled

meat, savoury black cherry,

and whole cloves on the

nose. The textured palate

echoes with charcuterie,

black cracked pepper, dried

cassis. The tannins, while

hard edged and structured,

act as the perfect frame for

the fruit. Espresso on the

lingering finish.

CLASSIC

De MartinoLegado Reserva Syrah 2010

ORIGIN: Choapa Valley,ChileTHE WALLET: $20-24*

ALCOHOL: 14% abv

TASTE: The untamed wild-

ness of this delicious wine is

direct from its site. Choapa

is approximately 800m

above sea level, in the

Andes, in Chile’s dry north.

These ungrafted vines yield

fresh, thorny, red cherry and

charred/caramelized onion

aromas. The Juicy, full palate

is bright with fresh cracked

pepper, cured salami and

spiced red currant. Intense,

almost saline minerality and

a spicy lingering finish.

WILD

Photo by Gary H

ynes


cookbooks EVERYONE CAN COOK EVERYTHINGBy Eric Akis, Whitecap (Hardcover) $35.00isbn 978-1-77050-109-6

With six Everyone Can Cook books and 750 original recipes underhis belt, Everyone Can Cook Everything is author Eric Akis’ rockcompilation album—a best hits medley sung to the tune of user-friendlyand deliciousness. The 240 recipes included in the 434-page bookwere chosen by the author and feature his signature, easy-to-followinstructions. The premise is you don’t need to be a cook at Momofukuor go to culinary school to be able to prepare good tasting meals foryour family and friends. Akis believes that all it takes is a little desire,

inspiration, and confidence to succeed in the kitchen. There is a great variety of recipes in Everyone Can Cook Everything—from the sublimely simple Shrimp

Cocktail Canapés; Fettuccini with Chicken, Pesto & Cherry Tomatoes; and Halibut and Spinach Wrappedin Phyllo Parcels to homey dishes like Devilled Eggs; Deluxe Potato Salad; Glazed Meatloaf with OnionGravy; and Easy Roll Ginger Cookies. If you own a slow cooker, you’ll appreciate innovative recipes like

Slow Cooker Durban-Style Chicken Curry, Sweet and Sour Meatballs, and Barbecue Pork Back Ribs withBourbon. Fans of brunch (and who isn’t?) will love the Sweet Bell Pepper Hash Browns or the Make-Ahead Eggs

Benedict when they want a step-up from their usual fare. Vegetarians will be happy, too. Chapters onsalads and vegetarian entrées have been included. I tried the Chickpea Burgers and found them asatisfying and healthy alternative to beef burgers. Next, I’m looking to trying the Pumpkin Chili with PoblanoPeppers and Corn. The salad section features 17 salads for all seasons—from Moroccan-Spiced Potatoand Carrot Salad to Candied Salmon, Goat Cheese and Blueberry Salad. The book ends with Baked Goods and Desserts. Look for enticing sweets such as Lemon Lover’s

Cupcakes, Mandarin Cherry Tarts with Ganache, and Creamy Coffee Cheesecake. There’s also a recipefor Flaky Pie Dough that I’ve used to make tourtière and apple pie and even I, a non-pastry person, canvouch for it—definitely flaky.

Everyone Can Cook Everything is extensive, comprehensive, and well laid out. No matter the meal orthe occasion, home cooks will find plenty of recipes that appeal to them and, by following the recipes, canbecome a rockstar in the kitchen. —staff

vincabulary - By Treve Ring


A Special Promotion

EAT MAGAZINE 29

IT’S A NEW YEARTRY A NEW VARIETAL

Church and State Wines2010 Coyote Bowl Syrah3rd Best Red Wine in Canada -2010 Canadian Wine Awards"Addictive aromas of blackpepper, cassis, crushed violetand cured meats are found onthe nose of this syrah. Thestructured palate is full, withdried cherry and sweet cassis,charcuterie, hints of medicinalcherry cola and violet notes. Ithas impressive texture andlength." - 2012 CWA Judgechurchandstatewines.com

Quails’ Gate 2011 Dry RieslingCrisp and dry with great acid,our Riesling is made from es-tate vines over 25 years old.The wine is zingy and fresh onthe palate with mouth-water-ing acidity. It finishes withfresh citrus and beautifullybalanced ripe fruit sweetness.Pair with citrus cured wildsalmon or a roasted pork sand-wich with zesty coleslaw. TrueRiesling lovers will appreciatethis wines cellaring potentialof 5-10 years.quailsgate.com

Kettle Valley Winery 2009 Petit VerdotKettle Valley’s first Petit Verdotgrapes were harvested in 2000and were added to our OldMain Red, a bordeaux blend.In 2001 we produced our firstsingle varietal Petit Verdot.The wine has gone through afull malolactic fermentationand was aged in French oakfor 21 months. This late ripen-ing, small berry grape pro-duces intense colour, brightfruit flavours and aromas ofviolets.kettlevalleywinery.com

Mt. Boucherie Family Estate WinerySummit Reserve 2009BlaufränkischAt over 300 acres Mt. Boucherie isone of the largest family ownedand operated vineyards and win-ery estates in British ColumbiaAromas and flavours of blueberriesand plums with a hint of spice.Rich tannins with balanced acidityleads to a smooth finish. Pair withbraised beef dishes, lamb or fetadishes.mtboucheriewinery.com

Moon Curser VineyardsDead of Night 2010Dead of Night is a blend ofTannat and Syrah. Tannat isa red grape variety tradi-tionally grown in the Madi-ran region of France. Ourplanting of Tannat (the onlyone in Canada) has yieldedan award-winning wine thatdisplays notes of cocoa, darkplums, violets and blackpepper.mooncurser.com

Vancouver Island University, Culinary Institute, Cowichan Campus, is due to opena satellite program for Professional Cooking Apprenticeship P.C. 1 & 2, at ProvidenceFarm February 4, 2013. This will be a full time adult training program with anemphasises on local, sustainable and field to plate experience.The course will run for ten months, Tues - Sat in the evenings. Students can expect an

"Artisan Field to Plate" experience through the seasons and to participate in farm ac-tivities. The Culinary Program will operate a small "Farm / Community" stylerestaurant which will be open to the public. For more information vist the website at www.cc.viu.ca/progserv/culinary.htm or call250-746-3500.



Wine ResolutionsSeven promises to keep for 2013 that are sure towiden your wine horizons.

The New Year offers an opportunity to review our lives and relationships andmake some improvements. How’s your relationship with wine? Could it usesome rejuvenation and attention in 2013? Who knows, your resolve in the

wine arena might even catch on in other parts of your life.

Drink more bubbleNothing suggests celebration like a glass of steadily rising bubbles. And while nofestivity should be without, it’s a shame that sparkling wine is restricted to specialoccasions. Bubble has a place beyond the token wedding toast. It’s a great partner withfood and is home at the dining table next to any meal. Cristalino, Brut Cava DO, Spain $13-15 (SKU #551218)It’s important to have a steady supply of bubbles. Thank you, Spain, for making themaffordable without sacrificing character. Drink anytime.Oyster Bay, Sparkling Cuvée Rosé, New Zealand $25-28 (SKU #772079)Slightly fuller-bodied, it’s an appropriate choice for lunch. Tasty red berries abound.

Be adventurousIt’s human nature to stick with what we know, but this tendency can hinder thechance of discovering something fantastic. In 2013, be brave and stray off the beatentrack, exploring lesser known grapes and regions. With its assortment of characterful,indigenous varieties, Italy is a natural place to start. Don’t be intimidated by all the un-recognizable names. You are guaranteed to find food-friendly wines packed withpersonality. Having recently visited the southern region of Campania, we are fasci-nated with the Aglianico grape. Want to venture further? Why not try a new Italiangrape every month? Barbera, Primitivo, Nero d’Avola, Negroamaro … the choices areendless! Your resolve to be adventurous might catch on in other parts of your life.2005 Rivera ‘Cappellaccio’, Aglianico, Castel del Monte Riserva DOC, Italy $28-32Aglianico has beautiful flavours of black plum and tar. High acidity and firm tannin alsoallows the best to age. This fine example can be enjoyed now.

Reconnect with old friendsWe refer fondly to wines we used to buy when we first started drinking, yet in our tire-less quest for the new we overlook these old favourites. Okay, some of them neverneed be revisited, but the best ones inspired us to dedicate our lives to wine. Onceupon a time, Aussie Shiraz and Chilean Cab were staples for us. Some of the names thatwere good 10-15 years ago are still going strong today. As well, a dizzying selection ofnewcomers is demonstrating how these countries have evolved. Australia diversifies byhighlighting distinct regions while Chile is venturing into new, cooler areas likeCasablanca, Limarí and Elqui. 2009 Xanadu, Shiraz, Margaret River, Australia $15-17 (SKU #106525)Cooler Margaret River produces wines with restraint and elegance. This is a great example;fresh and lively if and still full-bodied. Put your preconceived ideas of Aussie Shiraz aside.2009 Cousino Macul, ‘Antiguas Reserva’ Maipo, Chile $20-23 (SKU #298075)This old favourite stands the test of time. Buy multiple bottles and put a few in your cellar.It has proven to deliver great surprises with some aging.

Support the home team Once you start venturing into the world of wine don’t forget our own backyard. Thewine industry in B.C. is very young and still searching for an identity. For us it has beenexciting to see what stars emerge. Our latest loves are the best examples of dry Ries-ling, light pure Pinot Noir and refreshing Syrah, all of which exude the cooler climate.2011 Mission Hill Martin’s Lane Riesling, Okanagan Valley BC VQA, $25-28*Precise with great concentration of flavours balanced by searing acidity. Loves Indian food.

terroir — by Michelle Bouffard and Michaela Morris



2010 Tantalus, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley BC VQA, $30-35*Crunchy cherries and cranberry flavours with subtle vanilla notes. Happily, not over-extractedor over-oaked. Enjoy with salmon, tuna or charcuterie.

Go greener After all of your efforts to reduce, reuse and recycle, you deserve a glass of wine.Integrate this ritual into your green initiatives by choosing environmentally consciousproducers. While organic farming focuses on the health of the soil, biodynamic prac-tices offer a holistic approach beyond the vine. Then there is sustainability, anextremely broad concept but one that can address economic and social responsibili-ties. Plenty of debate surrounds these topics, but if you care enough, a little researchwill help you choose the wines most aligned with your beliefs. Whatever you do, don’tsacrifice taste! Your wine should be delicious. Some favourites that grace our shelvesregularly include Emiliana and Cono Sur from Chile, Yalumba from Australia,Chapoutier in France and Telmo Rodríguez in Spain. 2011 Poggiotondo, Bianco Toscana IGT, Italy, $15-18 (SKU #137570)This blend of Vermentino, Trebbiano and Malvasia gives thirst-quenching citrus, apple andmineral notes. Fabulous with seafood.2011 Bila-Haut, Côtes-du-Roussillon Villages AOC, France $15-18 (#175042)Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris with a dash of Macabeu. Medium to full-bodied whitewith tons of lemon, grapefruit and an intriguing saline minerality. Enjoy with poultry.

Spend less We’ve been known to blow our week’s wine budget on a single bottle. Come Wednes-day, we’re thirsty and broke. This can be avoided! Plenty of great wines under $20exist and nothing is more satisfying than finding an inexpensive wine that over-delivers for the price. South America is a treasure trove of fabulous values whilePortugal is really starting to blossom. The latter also boasts fantastic indigenous grapevarieties that will encourage you to be adventurous.2009 José Maria da Fonseca, ‘Periquita’, Setúbal, Portugal, $10-12 (SKU# #25262)The perfect everyday drinking wine. Savoury aromas and flavours of cherries and leather.Versatile enough to match pasta, pork, chicken and red meat.2010 Las Moras, Reserve Tannat, San Juan, Argentina $15-17 (SKU: #104018)The Tannat grape shines in Argentina. Full-bodied and packed with dense prune and raisinnotes. Perfect with a juicy steak.2008 Canta Perdices, Ribera del Duero DO, Spain $16-18 (SKU #16733)You can also count on Spain for well-priced unique wines. Made from Tempranillo, this full-bodied red offers black currant, leather and meaty flavours that will complement any lambdish.

Spoil yourselfSometimes you need to throw practicality out the window and indulge. Cool dampweather getting you down? Frustrated at work? Kids driving you nuts? A glass of yourfavourite tipple can help put the world right. For best results, treat yourself to some-thing really special. We have a well-known weakness for Champagne and even havea separate budget for good and bad times. We also have a current obsession withBrunello, spawned by a trip to Tuscany last spring. We are spoiled for choice as boththe classic and refined 2006 and the more precocious and richer 2007 vintages arecurrently available from a variety of great producers. What is your desert island wine?Here are a couple of ours.n/v Bollinger, Special Cuvée, Brut Champagne AOC, France $75-83 (SKU #384529) Powerful yet light on its feet. Enticing brioche aromas and incredible depth. Pure pleasure!2007 Talenti, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italy, $65-72 (SKU #154500)Elegant and feminine, this Brunello offers complex flavours of leather, cherries, sweet tobaccoand lingering mineral notes. Cooking osso buco? This is the one.

Our wine program for 2013 looks something like this: don’t get complacent but don’tneglect your roots. Spend less more often and more less often. Consider the environ-ment by supporting producers who share this philosophy and by going local. Anddrink bubble whenever appropriate, which is always.

WINE, SPIRITS & ALE FOR EVERY OCCASION From B.C. and around the world.

Victoria: University Heights Mall, Tuscany Village, Brentwood Bay Kelowna: Downtown Cultural District | metroliquor.com

/metroliquorstores

Lets be friends:

/metroliquor

DRINKING Guide: How to use our purchasing information. *Asterisks denote wines that are only available at the winery or select private liquor stores. Some may bein limited quantities. All other wines are available through BC Liquor Stores. Prices may vary.




Stephen is diploma graduate of WSET, former OIddbin’smanager in London and a graduate of Terrance Conran’s But-lers Wharf Chef School in restaurant management. He hasbeen the sommelier for Waazubee Café, Kitsilano Daily, andthe Daniel Group. He is currently GM of BierCraft Restaurantsand creator of the BC corkage fee blog www.bccorkage-fees.blogspot.com

COMFORTFried chicken with yeasted semolina waffle, ham and cloverhoney.

SB. Chicken is a blank canvas for both red and white wine. To bridge the flavours of the

clover honey, inherent sweetness of the ham, and the textural element of the waffle I’d rec-

ommend a Chenin Blanc preferably an off dry “Moelleux” style from France’s Vouvray,

Coteaux du Layon, or Quarts de Chaume appellations, or South African oak influenced

Chenin Blanc. The honeyed quality of an aged French Chenin with its balancing acidity

makes it a perfect foil to this dish with the rare combination of contrasts and compliments.

The floral and rice pudding quality of an oak influenced South African Chenin comple-

ments the chicken and waffle.

NI. Bottled autumnal sunshine is the most comforting thing ever, with the possible

exception of fried chicken. Together can they do no harm. My favourite sun with that

chicken would be a lovely & juicy off-dry Loire Chenin Blanc: a Vouvray or Savennieres

would work a treat with the juicy flesh, ham and honey, the underlying acidity of the grape

running herd on the richness. A nice alternative, as always, would be a big, round Spatlese-

level Riesling from the Rheingau.If red is called for something light, bright, fruity and with

a gentle slap to balance its tickle: a good Cru Beaujolais from 2010 or a pretty Lange

Nebbiolo from 2009. And, if you’re feeling decadent, chicken, waffles and champagne never

did no one wrong.

CP. This definitely calls for wine with good structure and acidity to cut through the fat and

salt of the meal. A rich, dry Riesling from Alsace is my top pick. Flavours of peach, grape-

fruit and lemon, as well as, the ripe, juicy acidity will really enhance the meal. I would

also love to pair this dish with sparkling wine. Sparkling wine has too often been kept only

for celebrating, but the yeasty flavours, acid structure and delicate bubbles make it an amaz-

ing food wine. Champagne would be absolutely divine with the fried chicken and waffles.

Stephen Bonner (SB)General Manager, Sommelier, BierCraft

what to drink with that — DRINK editor Treve Ring asks local wine experts how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours.

T H I S M O N T H ’ S E X P E R T S Carmen Parry (CP)Sommelier, The Westin Bear Mountain Victoria

COMFORTFried chicken with yeasted semolina waffle, ham and clover honey.

CLEANSEAvocado and tofu salad with dark sesame oil, scallions and lemon juice.

Neil Ingram (NI)Wine Director and co-owner of Boneta restaurant

This curious and thirsty fellow has been an avid member ofVancouver’s wine community since 1996, when he returned home tohelp his friend Andrey Durbach open Etoile Restaurant. It was therewith Andrey and Barb Philip he began to turn away from the stageand fall in love with the grape. From 1999 to 2006 he ran the wineprogram at the storied Lumiere restaurant. In 2007 he opened the pi-oneering Gastown spot Boneta. He was named Sommelier of theYear by his peers in 2008 and continues to judge, consult, taste andopine whenever there’s a free moment.

Carmen started her food and beverage journey at the HotelGrand Pacific in 2003 as a banquet server while she attended col-lege. During her tenure there she began studying and appreciat-ing wine, and completed her Sommelier Diploma through theInternational Sommelier Guild in 2009. Presently she is the Som-melier at the Westin Bear Mountain, where she can be found host-ing an informal tasting series on Friday nights and continuing todevelop the wine program.

CLEANSEAvocado and tofu salad with dark sesame oil,scallions and lemon juice.

SB. Although a simple sounding dish this salad has complexity andlayers of flavours. The perceived neutral flavor of tofu is enhanced by itsumami qualities when married with sesame oil. This dish cries out for apungent new world Sauvignon Blanc preferably from the Marlboroughregion of New Zealand. The zesty acidity of the wine balances the lemonjuice and the pungent gooseberry, passion fruit, nettle, and capsicumnotes contrast the rich earthiness of the sesame, avocado, and umami.Chilean Casablanca Valley Sauvignon Blanc is another option with asimilar flavour profile to New Zealand.

NI. Isn’t asking for the best cleanse wine like asking for the best road-tripbeer? It’s a mixed message at the best, but hey, at least nobody gets hurton the cleanse-cheat.A nice Australian Semillon would fit the bill well. The lemon and sesameoil would play well with it and the texture of the avocado and tofu wouldflesh out the wine too. Plus it’s usually lower in alcohol so you won’t feelbad about having that nip of Tequila on the side.

CP. The rich, creamy texture coupled with the zesty dressing lead me inmany directions. Fruity and floral, aromatic wines are a great match forthis salad. The ability of the wine to refresh the palate from the smooth,creamy texture of the avocado is important to consider when pairing thisdish. A Chenin Blanc from the Okanagan Valley, with flavours of quinceand beeswax, fresh and crisp, yet honeyed and bursting with flavour,would be a wonderful match.

][EAT Magazine Jan-Feb 2013_Victoria_40_Layout 1 12/27/12 1:09 PM


]Perfec tly placed

in theSouth Okanagan

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Perfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn � " � � � � # � � " � # # � � � ' $� � # � � � � # � � � & %& %� � ! " � � � � ' $� ' � & � � ' $� � ) & %� " � � �namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of � & %� � � " � � � � � �& � # % � � � ! � � � # %� ' $� � � � � ! � � � � � � � � � %! $� � � %� �� & %$# " %� � " � � � � � # % � ' $� � � # � � � %� � & � � � � � %! $( � � # ' $� � " # � & � � � �� ) & ' $� ' $� � � " �& ' � ' # � ! " � � ' � ' $� � � �� " � � � ' � " " # & " � � " & � � %� ) & %� � ' $� ' �) � " � � � %# ) %� � # " ( � � � " � ' # � � ' & � " � � � � � & � � � � � � " & � � � " � � " � � � %' � � ' $� �finest of each vintage.


The BuzzVICTORIA: Tis There is an old British New Year’s tradition that involves opening the back door at thestroke of midnight to let the old year out. This tradition came to mind when rounding up Victoria’srestaurant news for this issue and I think you’ll see why. The last few months of 2012 saw a lot of doorsopening and closing. The most notable of these was the late October closure of Ronald Orr Butcher and Sons’ three

locations. The Orr’s traditional butcher’s shop was known for its quality antibiotic and hormone free meats,as well as its sausage, haggis and other ex-pat treats. After 34 years in business, Orr’s will be greatlymissed. Another loss that will be felt in both the food and music communities is the December closing ofthe Fort Street Café. After six years in business, the popular lunch spot/music venue was not able torenew its lease, however fundraising efforts are underway to finance their relocation.The end of 2012 saw several reincarnations as well. In the Estevan Village, Paprika Bistro owner Geoff

Parker decided the time had come to rebrand and in early November the restaurant reopened as PadellaItalian Bistro. The new bistro is open for lunch as well as dinner offering traditional Italian cuisine usingVancouver Island’s best ingredients. Chef John Paul Turions (Stage, Camille’s, Devour, Les Faux Bourgeois)has taken over the kitchen. (www.padellaitalianbistro.com) Another change occurred at the corner of Oak Bay Ave and Monterey, where the Oak Bay Bistro

transformed momentarily into a supper club, but in early November new owners Nick Hopkins and IsaHosein opened the Oaks Restaurant and Grill, serving a family-friendly, inclusive menu which featuresa children’s menu and gluten free dishes. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant serves dailysoups, burgers, sandwiches, pizza as well as a few tips of the hat to the Blethering Place with items likeBangers and Mash. In Fernwood, Kulu Restaurant closed its doors, and has since become Ça Va Bistro Moderne. Chef

Fauna Martin is a Victoria native who completed her culinary degree at Camosun College and spent fouryears apprenticing in Australia. This experience contributes to her unique take on West Coast cuisine.Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday- Sunday, and Brunch Saturday-Sunday. (www.cavavictoria.com) In food truck news, the Taco Justice League truck rolled into town in September and has been “fight-

ing hunger one taco at a time” in the form of their Cali-Mex, Asian Fusion and West Coast style tacos atthe corner of Cook and Pandora. Open Tuesday – Saturday from 11.30am-4pm. (www.tacojustice.com) Opimian, Canada’s wine club, is pleased to announce that Steve and Carole Hutchinson will be

taking over the responsibility as Area Representatives for Opimian’s Victoria chapter starting January 1,2013. Opimian is a wine-purchasing cooperative based in Montreal, Quebec. There are more than 20,000members across Canada, with over 500 members on Vancouver Island. Steve and Carole can be reachedat [email protected] and are available to answer questions about upcoming events, becoming anOpimian member and more.We already know 2013 is going to be a good year for Victoria’s food lovers because it is the year the

city sees the long-awaited return of its permanent public market. The new Public Market at the historicHudson Building is slated to open in April 2013, and in November the Victoria Downtown PublicMarket Society announced a preliminary list of vendors, including shops by well-respected local busi-

nesses Silk Road, Salt Spring Island Cheese, and Wildfire Bakery; hot food outlets by amazing localchefs like George Szasz (formerly of Stage) and Cosmo Means (Hot and Cold Café); and great newand emerging businesses like the Island Spice Trade, Tortilleria Monterrey, and Bounty Seafood atthe Hudson. Modeled after popular markets like the Ferry Building in San Francisco, the Atwater Marketin Montreal and London’s Borough Market, the Victoria Public Market is a food-centered Public Market thatwill feature farmers’ day tables, semi-permanent kiosks with 1-year leases and permanent vendors with 3-year leases. The market will also include a commercial kitchen for cooking classes, special dinners, urbanagriculture workshops and special events. We’re already counting down the days until opening!—Rebecca Baugniet

VANCOUVER: Food Organic Acres (www.organicacresmain.com), a local, independently-ownedgrocer located at Granville Island Public Market, has moved to 3603 Main Street and expanded theirofferings to include a wide variety of organic goods, both fresh and dry.On the west side, Beaucoup Bakery & Café (www.beaucoupbakery.com) has opened their doors at

Fir Street and West 6 Avenue, specializing in childhood favourites and French classics, including sweetpastries, cakes, viennoiserie, sandwiches and croissants, as well as 49th Parallel coffee and select retailitems.Year-round pork…local food truck Pig on the Street (www.pigonthestreet.com) has expanded their

offerings by opening a brick-and-mortar location aptly named Pig & Mortar in the South Granville neigh-bourhood. The pork-centric menu will focus on pub eats, craft brews, and wines on tap from VancouverUrban Winery.In other food truck-inspired news, Diva at the Met (www.metropolitan.com/diva) Executive Chef Hamid

Salimian has created street food-style lunch offerings, including a corndog made with sweetbread sausagebattered in buttermilk and cornmeal and topped with truffle mayo. The menu will change weekly, and runsthrough to the end of January.A Fraîche start…Executive Chef Jefferson Alvarez of Fraîche (www.fraicherestaurant.ca) has left his

culinary home in West Vancouver to take over the kitchen at Lift (www.liftbarandgrill.com) in Coal Harbour.Beachside Forno EC Jason Harris will be taking over from Alvarez.Vancouver Urban Winery (vancouverurbanwinery.com) has released their first wine label. Roaring

Twenties Wine Co. currently has two releases, a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and a Mendoza Malbec.Both are available in steel kegs via the FreshTAP system as well as in select private wine retailers. Edible Canada (www.ediblecanada.com) has released their first custom label, Market Red, in part-

nership with Okanagan Crush Pad. The Gamay Noir-Syrah blend features grapes from Seacrest Moun-tain Vineyards in Oliver and Cerqueira Vineyard, respectively. With only 100 cases produced, it shouldsell out fast. Available at the bistro (by the glass and bottle), as well as at select private retailers.Stanley Park Brewery (www.stanelyparkbrewery.ca) has released a new Belgian-style dark ale,

Stanley Park Brun, for the winter months. Made from a mixture of Crystal, Pilsner and Munich malts, lookfor large, lingering head of chocolate, malt biscuit and roasted nuts. Pair with stews, chocolate and mildcheeses. At private wine and beer stores.The 2nd Annual FeastVan (www.feastvan.com) will be taking place January 18 through February 3.

Dozens of East Side restaurants will participate by donating one dollar from each prix fixe meal sold toStrathcona Community Centre Backpack Food Program, helping children in the DTES bridge the “week-end gap” when school food programs are not running.Sean Heather of The Irish Heather, Judas Goat, Salt Tasting Room, et al, is opening another new

Gastown spot, Rainier Provisions, at the corner of Carrall and Cordova. Part deli/butcher, part restau-rant, look for quality meats from JN&Z and Moccia, as well as fine imported cheeses, cornichons, etc.Opening this month.Andrea Carlson, former EC at Bishop’s and Raincity Grill, is opening Burdock & Co. in the former

Cafeteria space at 2702 Main Street. Look for a menu that features urban agriculture projects like SOLE-food, as well as other local/sustainable producers.Section (3) has closed its doors after 18 years in Yaletown. The space is being taken over by Romer’s

Burger Bar (www.romersburgerbar.com) for their third location. —Anya Levykh

TOFINO: Just in time for the winter blues, a new Tofino business offers fresh organic cakes and cupcakes,some of which can be delivered right to your door. Tofino Cake Studio is the brainchild of Leah andGord Austin,former owners of Chocolate Tofino. Out of a small footprint certified kitchen built off theirhome, Leah and Gord are dolling out some of the best sweet treats I’ve ever tried. The cupcakes I’ve sam-pled include a pumpkin cream cheese icing fall special, as well as lavender buttercream. It’s evident thatthese recipes are tested and have been perfected by pastry chef Gord and master gardener Leah (she uses

Cont’d on the next page

WHO’S DOING WHAT IN VICTORIA, VANCOUVER, THE OKANAGAN, TOFINO, THE COWICHAN & NANAIMO


Gift certificates for The Pointe Restaurant at The Wickaninnish Inn. They’re in superb taste and offer memories that last a lifetime. Call us toll-free for yours today.

tel 1.800.333.4604 www.wickinn.com Follow us @tastewickinnBC

GIVE THE GIFT OF GOOD TASTE.

GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE.



her edible flowers in many of the designs). “Cupcakes on your doorstep” is a weeklydelivery service they offer, as well cakes for every occasion. Tofino Cake Studio treatsare also available at Green Soul Organics and at the Tofino Public Market, whichruns every summer weekend. Ask about gluten free and vegan options.www.tofinocakestudio.comShelter Restaurant is making the most out of storm season with their Epicurious

Series. This around-the-world dinner series started Nov. 11 and runs until February 10.Starting with Mexico and ending with India, Shelter is exploring the cuisines of theworld. The team welcomed Chef Peter Zambri (Zambri's in Victoria) for Italian nightNov. 25. Moroccan night took place in December, and January brings both Thailand(Jan. 10) and Greece (Jan. 24) to Tofino. Indian night takes place Feb. 10. To reserveand to find out more, visit www.shelterrestaurant.com or facebook.com/shelter-restaurant. Thanks are due to Long Beach Lodge Resort for opening its doors Dec.2 for a festive fundraiser for a local non-profit organization. The Raincoast EducationSociety benefitted from the ticket proceeds of the Lodge’s annual open houseevent.Locals were invited to sample canapés and various specialty foods– includingsushi and oysters - at many stations set up around the Great Room. With room spe-cials and free shuttle service, this event is a always a great community celebration.www.longbeachlodge.comThe Wickaninnish Inn's Pointe Restaurant Chef Nick Nutting participated in the

Gold Medal Plates competition in Vancouver in November. The event is a fundraiserfor the Canadian Olympic Foundation. At the event, guests had the chance to min-gle with 25 Olympians while enjoyed the culinary feats of some of British Colum-bia’s best chefs. The gold medal went to Mark Filatow of the Waterfront Restaurantand Wine Bar in Kelowna. In more news from the Wickaninnish Inn, the PointeRestaurant now carries the Ocean Wise certification. While sustainable seafood wasalways on the menu, it's now official: "Becoming a member of the Ocean Wisefamily means actively supporting the Vancouver Aquarium in their mandate to edu-cate and empower consumers about the issues surrounding sustainable seafood,"states the website. www.wickinn.com If you’re planning a storm season visit to the coast, be sure to phone ahead to your

favourite restaurants, as many temporarily close their doors in January. Mostare ready to go again for Valentine’s Day. —Jen Dart

The Buzz

Cont’d on the next page

Gift certificates for The Pointe Restaurant at The Wickaninnish Inn. They’re in superb taste and offer memories that last a lifetime. Call us toll-free for yours today.

tel 1.800.333.4604 www.wickinn.com Follow us @tastewickinnBC

GIVE THE GIFT OF GOOD TASTE.

GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE.


TAKE A BITE OUT OF

VALENTINE’S DAY

www.eatmagazine.ca


COWICHAN VALLEY: A very tasty trend has taken over one of Duncan’s downtown neighborhoods:charming older homes being converted into restaurants. Ladysmith’s beloved Indian restaurant, TheRoyal Dar, delighted Duncan patrons by relocating to Third Street last summer (www.royaldar.ca) 250-597-1483. Then in November, Hudson’s on First opened on First Street. Hudson’s offers a beautifullyrenovated heritage home interior and a fine dining menu that showcases local ingredients with Britishand French influences. The intimate décor and Chef Dan Hudson’s exquisite food make this a perfectplace to take your Valentine on February 14th. Be sure to also check out their “steampunk” inspiredlounge for after-work drinks and lighter fare (www.hudsonsonfirst.ca) 250- 597-0066.Tin Cup Coffee & Espresso Bar has opened on Canada Avenue. Owners Kuldip and Nadine

Badyal have done a spectacular job renovating the former Dayley Planet premises into a beautiful caféthat is perfect for enjoying a warm cup of your favourite brew on a cold winter day. Not only does theTin Cup boast Drumroaster Coffee and Teafarm teas, Nadine will also be offering interior designservices out of a corner of the shop. (www.tincupespresso.com) 250-597-3738.Friday, January 25th is Robbie Burns Day, and Birds Eye Cove Farm is the perfect place to celebrate

the beloved Scottish Poet. This “Ode to Robbie” pub style celebration will feature Celtic music, dancing,and some Scottish style fare- local artisan meats and cheeses and of course, Haggis! Another great up-coming event at “the farm” is the start of their Secret Supper Club series, where an unknown mystery chefwill prepare an incredible meal for the group without revealing their identity until end of the evening.Thursday, February 14th, providing a fun idea for your Valentine’s Day dinner plans(www.birdseyecovefarm.com) 250-748-6379.The winter blues can sneak up on you at this time of year, but chef Bill Jones has just the cure. On Feb-

ruary 16th Jones will hold a “Happiness Dinner” at Deerholme Farm, featuring foods that boost sero-tonin levels. With a menu that includes BigLeaf maple syrup, truffles, oysters, crab, and chocolate, it’shard to imagine anyone leaving this event in a bad mood (www.deerholme.com) 250-748-7450.What could be a more iconic Canadian winter pastime than harvesting maple syrup? This year’s an-

nual BigLeaf Maple Syrup Festival will take place February 2nd, at the BC Forest Discovery Centre.There will be syrup competitions, tastings, tapping demonstrations, and vendors offering syrup and maplethemed food and drink. (www.bcforestmuseum.com) 250- 715-1113.Don’t forget to save the date for the upcoming Cowichan Chef’s TableMS Dinner on March 10th.

A collection of the Valley’s most talented and generous chefs will be coming together to create an elab-orate multi-course feast complete with local wine pairings, all for a great cause! Tickets are $125, andtend to sell out early. Contact Anne Muir of the MS Society for more details ([email protected])250-748-7010. —Lindsay Muir

NANAIMO & UP ISLAND: The first thing that I saw as I parked in front of Morning Star Bison Ranchjust south of Nanaimo, were beautiful piercing eyes belonging to two golden eagles in an atrium besidethe porch. They didn’t take their gaze off of me until Bob, or Buffalo Bob as he is know around here,pulled up in a big beefy pickup truck with his two boarder collies riding shotgun. Bob raises his buffalofor meat, lucky for us! Lovingly and carefully forming this herd of Plains Buffalo and raising them 100%naturally on his 250 acre ranch. He doesn’t believe in middleman, so every other week he drives all overthis island delivering orders to real people. These buffalo graze and feed on grass and hay harvestedon the ranch and enjoy stress free lives before they reach our table providing a high protein, low fat, lowcholesterol alternative to beef with a larger than life, beefy yet not at all gamey flavour. If every farmerwe know were as responsible and knowledgeable in raising their meat animals as Bob, our island wouldbe a better place. Check out Morning Stars’ web site at: www.m-star.caMid February here normally brings the scent of green grass being cut for the first time, so bust out of

hibernation and head to Parksville for an Uncorked weekend of sophisticated food and wine tasting.Thursday February 21st starts the 4 day festival off with an evening of regional brews paired with regionalfoods, followed on Friday with The Beach Club Resort Swirl signature event. Two Winemakers Dinnersfeaturing the wines of Burrowing Owl and Road 13 highlight Saturday night, followed with Bubbles& Brunch on Sunday to complete the line up at Tigh Na Mara Resort. Don’t miss out on your share ofthe grape, use the online reservation system at: www.parksvilleuncorked.com or call: 855-254-wine.Indulge in decadent guilt free chocolate after enjoying an hour of leisurely snowshoeing in fluffy soft

powder up on our very own Mt Washington in the Comox Valley. The 3-course fondue dinner in thecozy mountain side Raven Chalet fires up with silky melted cheese as you relax into the après atmosphereand prepare for the generous meat and seafood dunk and dine. Finally, finally the chocolate you earned,savoured at the end. These excursions are offered each Friday and Saturday evening and are definitelya post holiday treat to your senses. www.mountwashington.caDowntown Courtney is the lucky benefactor of that warm fresh-out-of-the-oven baked bread smell orig-

inating from Bill Marler’s new Vassilis’ Bread Shop, formerly of Denman Island fame. Follow your noseinto the yeasty kitchen and pick up a lovely homemade sprouted grain loaf baked daily and walk outwithout a gooey cinnamon bun or Greek sesame ring if you can! Order up one of their unique take &bake pizzas to go, with your personalized ingredients built from scratch on its own baking sheet readyto pop in your oven. 556 5th St Courtney B.C 250-871-0880 —Kirsten Tyler

The Buzz

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While waiting for the flour that hasmade its way onto his apron to bedusted off, and watching the enjoy-

ment of a fresh pretzel being eaten for breakfast,it is clear that Byron Fry is living and breathinghis new bakery.The small shop that opened its doors less than

three weeks ago has a warm presence to it. Withclean white walls, an open concept wood-fireoven, and rustic wood shelving surrounded byautumn coloured flowers, Fry’s Bakery is reminis-cent of a corner shop one would find in a farmingcommunity of years past. The smell of fresh breadand croissants coupled with the ease at whichcustomers are greeted, add to the overall invitingatmosphere of this new Victorian, soon to be,staple.Byron Fry, the man behind the bakery has had

his hands deep in dough for over four years.Despite being part of a long line of bakers on bothsides of his family, it wasn’t until after beginningto bake that Fry learnt of his great, great grandfa-ther’s Victorian Bakery Fry’s Bakery, which waslocated across the street from his new shop.Although primarily self-taught, through learningcurves and burnt loaves, Fry bounced around dif-ferent bakeries learning the production side ofbaking. However, Fry ultimately realized thatworking for places that did not produce hisdesired quality of bread, was not what he had setout to accomplish.Through the generosity of his parents, who let

him bake out of the bottom of their Metchosinhome, Fry began to create bread that was rich inorganic grains and heirloom wheat. Since relo-cating to a store with more space, his repertoireof baked goods now includes croissants, locallamb sausage rolls and pretzels, alongsideCowichan Pasta, free range Metchosin andSaanich eggs, and of course new types of bread.Today, the daily baked loaves include styles such

as those with 100% rye, flax-rye and sesame seeds,honey, raisins and cinnamon, and of course theirtwo staples: Pain Rustique (30% wholegrain) andWhole Wheat Country (Red Fife, rye, wholemeal).A loaf sells for ten dollars, as Fry has baked thebread with the consideration of those customersthat want to purchase a loaf or two a week.Since Fry has committed to using high quality

ingredients that are utilized in a traditional styleof extended fermentation, the gluten is morereadily broken down compared to more conven-tional baking operations. In large grocery storeswhere the mass production of bread sees greatamounts of yeast used to increase rising times, thegluten and nutrients often become indigestible.With gluten sensitivities now more common insociety, Fry’s bread is an option for the carbohy-drate lover that resides in most of us. He explainshow his bakery has quickly gained a reputation asgluten-free, despite having never baked anythingthat lives up to the description. This misunder-stood concept lays in the fact that many people,aside from those with celiac disease, do not feelthe common sickness in their stomachs that is ofttimes associated with supermarket breads.The ambitions of Byron Fry for his new bakery

are simple, “ have consistent value, a really goodquality product and make it comfortable for thepeople that come by.” The relationship with theimmediate community is what Fry hopes to firstdevelop. Eventually he aspires to have his bakerybecome a destination spot for Victorians who livefurther away yet can still appreciate high qualitybaking from a local business. At this point, Fry’sBakery is in the process of learning what it is thelocals need from them, and how they can bakethe bread that they want.BY MORGAN K. STERNS Fry’s Bakery 416 Craigflower Road, Victoria, BC(hours) Tuesday – Saturday: 8:30am – 5:30pmwww.frysbakery.com

First Look: Fry’s Bakery

Byron Fry standing in front of Fry's Bread storefront

Elizabeth Nyland



What the Pros Know – compiled by Rebecca Baugniet

“The coffee that I'm most excited about right now is a natural process Beloyafrom Ethiopia. This coffee is exceptional and unique in its flavour profilebut it's also special because it has been very hard to get for the last few yearsdue to changes in the Ethiopian coffee market. We have tasted and approvedthe landed samples and are now anxiously awaiting its arrival to our facility.”

- Ben Cram, Fernwood Coffee (250) 590-3320

“Although a latecomer to the scene, Bolivia has all the ingredients to producea great coffee: altitude, climate, good varieties, and a tradition of organicfarming. These are complex, rich coffees, the classic clean cup, and aromat-ically sweet. They also have subtle fruit flavours, like apricot and lemon. Itake our Bolivian beans to a Full City roast, between medium and dark, wherethey develop roast flavours like malt, milk chocolate, and caramel. Pair withone of Byron Fry’s pain au chocolat or a slice of Lone Tree Bakery’s bananabread, and thank me later.”

- Ken Winchester, Mile Zero Coffee at Niagara Grocery (250) 383-1223

“Several years ago I had the privilege to work with some quality-driven cof-fee farmers in Kenya. Nyeri, a region in the Central Highlands was a partic-ularly special place for me. The care and attention that we witnessed startingto take hold there was what our mission was all about. Quality coffee at everystep from seed to cup. Currently we are offering an amazing coffee fromGatomboya that was shipped in vacuum-packed bags to ensure freshness.It’s a sweet and juicy coffee that immediately demands your palate’s atten-tion. It is truly remarkable and makes me smile remembering all that hasgone into making this coffee so great.”- Shane Devereaux, Habit (250) 294-1127

For this issue, we asked localroasters and baristas to tell uswhat their personal favouritebean is these days.

Here’s what thepros are drinkingat home.

1715 Government [email protected]

Dinner 5:30 - 11 pmTuesday to Saturday

left: Ben Cram at theParsonage Cafe

Colin H

ynes

Barista Talk



Looking for tips on tea & food pairing or how to brew the perfect pot of tea? Need some fabulous tea mocktail or cocktail recipes? Visit our new online magazine at silkroadtea.com - your ultimate resource for tea recipe ideas.

1624 Government St. Victoria Chinatown silkroadtea.com

SilkRoadVictoria @silkroadtea

THERE’S always SOMETHING BREWING AT SILK ROAD

“We have lots of great coffees at Discovery right now. One that is really stand-ing out for me at the moment is a single bean varietal called Pacamara fromEl Salvador. It is an extraordinarily beautiful and large coffee bean with fla-vor notes of black cherry and plum. This coffee comes from a farm ownedby the Valiente family and managed by Luis Rodrigues, together they growand process this coffee to emphasize its naturally sweet and fruity flavours.I find it to be extremely versatile and have enjoyed it in many brew meth-ods. Recently I have been brewing it as a pour-over using a V-60 #2 ceramiccone with a paper filter.”- Logan Gray, Discovery Coffee (250) 477-2323

“My favourite coffee right now is a coffee that I sourced last May and it'sfrom Guatemala. The producer's name is Octavio Herrara and his farm, in theHuehuetenango region, is called Finca La Esperanza. La Esperanza is deli-cious as a filter drip, French press, and single-origin espresso. It's got beauti-ful notes of ripe red fruit, apricot and almonds. As it cools, the cup evolves,allowing different nuances to emerge sip after sip.”- Carsen Oglend, Drumroaster Coffee (250) 743-5200

“As we settle into the cooler months, there is no coffee which brings a smileto my face quite like the Sumatra Mandheling. Originating on Sumatra, thelargest island in Indonesia, it takes the second half of its name from theMadailing people, who live and produce coffee on the northern part of theisland. Versatility is what makes this bean really shine; whether it's first thingin the morning, or late in the afternoon, the bold presence and heavy bodyof this coffee, along with the subtle spiciness and sweetness are just what Ineed for calm and comfort.”- Alan Ray Tatro, Caffe Fantastico 250.385.2326

“For the last little while my home hopper has been full of the GuatemalaFinca Jauja. It is a delightfully versatile coffee, offering subtle raisin and dark,warm chocolate in the cup. I was fortunate enough to meet the owner of theplantation where this coffee is grown last year at the SCAA convention inPortland. We Fantasticats liked this offering so much we bought up the lot!The Jauja is delicious as a pour over or press and sweetens beautifully as it be-gins to cool. My wife swears it makes the best cafe au laits.”- Jesse Owens, Tre Fantastico 250.590.8014

“My first mind blowing coffee experience was a cup from Yirgacheffe almost15 years ago. This was the beginning of my love for specialty coffee. In re-cent years however, it has been increasingly difficult to find high quality,traceable Ethiopian coffee largely due to the new Ethiopian commodities ex-change.I was thrilled when I recently acquired a micro-lot by a man namedZelele. His remarkable coffee exemplifies the qualites of this famous region:Sweet floral, citrus, and berry aromas. Predominant ripe lemon and stonefruit flavors with deep exotic spice and jasmine undertones. Delicate yetsoftly bright acidity with a lightly syrupy mouthfeel and a rich resonant fin-ish.”- Derek Allen, Caffe Fantastico 250.385.2326

2524 estevan ave. | padellaitalianbistro.com | [email protected]

Tuesday to Thursday lunch: 11:30am to 2pm dinner: 5pm to 9pm

Friday & Saturday 11:30am to 10pm

ph. 250.592.7424

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