East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

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East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

description

Walk guidebook detailing walks along the John Muir Way in East Lothian part of the transnational long distance walk "The North Sea Trail."

Transcript of East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

Page 1: East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

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Introduction to East Lothian and the John Muir Way

The selection of routes in thisbooklet give a flavour of thecountryside and heritage that

can be seen along the John Muir Way,East Lothian’s section of the NorthSea Trail.

The John Muir Way extends for over70km between Fisherrow Harbour inMusselburgh and Dunglass on theboundary with the Scottish Bordersand is named after the world-renowned conservationist andfounder of America’s National Parks,born in Dunbar in 1838.

Along the Way, you will see iconicfeatures such as the Bass Rock, NorthBerwick Law and Traprain Law,remnants of major prehistoricvolcanic activity.

Inland, East Lothian’s rolling landscapegave rise to its reputation as the ‘breadbasket of Scotland,’ inspiring nationalpoet Robert Burns to state that thecounty was “the most glorious corncountry I ever saw.” Golden fields ofwheat and barley rise to meet a greenand purple patchwork of grassland andheather moor on the Lammermuir Hillsto the south.

East Lothian also has a colourful history.Traprain Law is thought to have beenone of the principal hill forts of theancient Celtic people called the Votadini.Over the centuries the Romans, Picts,Scots, Northumbrians, and Englisharmies have claimed the county and leftevidence of their presence in a richtapestry of place names.

ContentsIntroduction to East Lothian and the John Muir WayAbout the North Sea Trail 1How to use this Guide 1Key to map 1Route 1 Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular 3Route 2 Musselburgh to Prestonpans on the John Muir Way 5Route 3 Wallyford to Prestonpans - Station to Station 7Route 4 Seton Collegiate Church 9Route 5 Longniddry to Haddington Railway Walk and

the River Tyne Path 11Route 6 Aberlady to Gullane on the John Muir Way 13Route 7 Gullane Circular 15Route 8 Dirleton and Yellowcraig Circular 17Route 9 North Berwick and the Law 19Route 10 North Berwick Circular 21Route 11 East Linton to Traprain Law 23Route 12 Dunbar’s Cliff Top Trail to John Muir Country Park 25Route 13 Thorntonloch to Dunglass on the John Muir Way 27Route 14 Dunglass to Oldhamstocks 29Scottish Outdoor Access Code 30Useful safety tips 30Getting to East Lothian and public transport 31Where to stay and eat 31Useful information 32

John Muir StatueOld Town House, Dunbar

Bass Rock

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How to Use this GuideDistances and suggested times are listed for each route, as well asindications of local points of interest, local services and publictransport. Distances are given in kilometres (km) and miles; forsome of the routes the amount of ascent or descent is given inmetres (m) or feet. Some of the routes start and finish at the samepoint, whilst others may be completed by using public transport, bypre-arranging car transport at either end, or by re-tracing yoursteps back to the start. Many of the routes are signposted, butothers are not and directions are given as a guide. Timings areapproximate.

Some of the routes in this booklet may be suitable for cycling,horse riding and access by people of all abilities; contact EastLothian Council’s Outdoor Access Officers (see page 32) for furtherinformation. Follow the guidance of the Scottish Outdoor AccessCode www.outdooraccess-scotland.com (see page 31). A briefsummary of the Code (Know the Code before you go) is available in11 different languages online: www.snh.org.uk or available to orderfree of charge from Scottish Natural Heritage’s publication section,tel. 01738 444177.

About the North Sea TrailThe North Sea Trail is aEuropean Union funded projectthat promotes opportunities forexploring natural and culturalheritage through pathnetworks around the North Sea.26 regions from Norway,Sweden, Denmark, Germany,The Netherlands, England andScotland are involved inproviding access to trails,information about localheritage, and promotingbusiness development for localservice providers. Furtherinformation on the trail can befound onwww.northseatrail.org, or formore information on the NAVENortrail project visit

www.nave.no

Nungate Bridge, Haddington

Picturesque ruined castles and towersbear testament to this turbulent past.Hailes, Dirleton and Tantallon areamong a number of ancient castlesand monuments in the care ofHistoric Scotland where visitorinterpretation is provided.

You can visit other historic buildingsand monuments in the care ofHistoric Scotland and the NationalTrust for Scotland, as well as the JohnMuir Birthplace Museum, the ScottishSeabird Centre with its remotecameras trained on the Bass Rock(the third largest gannetry in theworld), the Museum of Flight and the“Concorde Experience”, GlenkinchieDistillery (home of the “EdinburghMalt”), and 21 quality golf courses.

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Many visitors come to discoverthe beauty of East Lothian’scoast and countryside forwalking, cycling, horse riding,watersports and other outdooractivities. We hope you willdiscover the delights of EastLothian. Take your time, enjoythe great views, stay a while,and seek out the manyfascinating places that havehelped to shape the county andmake it the place it is today.

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Public ToiletsDisabled Facilities Seasonal OpeningWeekends only in winter

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Fisherrow Harbour,Musselburgh

The Manor House, Inveresk

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Route 1 Musselburgh and Fisherrow Circular

Start and Finish: Fisherrow HarbourDistance: 8 km/5 miles

Time: 2 – 2½ hoursTerrain and path information: Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements, some steps.

Points of Interest: 1 Fisherrow Harbour – a late medieval harbour with possible Roman origins.

2 River Esk – habitat and roosting area for birds, such asmute swans, and waders, which feed on the tidal flats.

3 Musselburgh Tolbooth – its prominent clock was agift to the people of Musselburgh from 'the Dutchstates' in 1496.

4 Lewisvale Park – an Edwardian public park datingfrom 1911.

5 Inveresk Village – a delightful conservation village –location of the National Trust for Scotland’s InvereskLodge Garden.

6 Roman Inveresk – a prominent fort between 142 and163 AD.

7 Roman Bridge - dating from the 16th century, it isreputed to be built over a Roman foundation.

Directions: From Fisherrow Harbour follow the signposts for the JohnMuir Way along the promenade and around the west sideof the river mouth. Cross the first bridge and continuestraight ahead along James Street, turning right at Mill Hill,then left at Kerr’s Wynd to join the High Street. Cross atthe pedestrian crossing and continue up Newbigging; turnright at Inveresk Road, then almost immediately turn leftup Inveresk Brae. Enter Lewisvale Public Park on the leftshortly after. After passing the bandstand look out for ablack signpost on the right. Ascend the steps herefollowing the sign for the cricket pitches and follow thepath around the fields. Exit the park to come out on DoubleDykes. Cross over Inveresk Village Road, turn left then rightto enter Wedderburn Terrace. A path at the end of the street leads to the River Esk. Onceat the riverside turn right heading back into Musselburgh.Leave the path at Eskmills Park, and cross Mall Avenue tofollow the river downstream. Cross the Esk by the RomanBridge and continue along Market Street until North HighStreet is reached; use the crossing to reach the startingpoint at Fisherrow Harbour.

Public Transport: There are regular bus and rail services to Musselburgh.

Local Services: Musselburgh is well served with shops, cafes, andrestaurants.

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Prestongrange looking towards Cockenzie Power Station

Oystercatchers

Levenhall, Musselburgh

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Route 2 Musselburgh to Prestonpans on the John Muir Way

Start: Fisherrow HarbourFinish: Prestonpans

Distance: 6 km/4 miles (one way)Time: 1½ - 2 hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Mostly well-surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1 Fisherrow Harbour – as Route 1.2 River Esk mouth – as Route 1.3 Musselburgh Racecourse – a venue for horse racing

since 1816.4 Musselburgh Links – reputed to be the oldest playing

golf course in the World. Mary Queen of Scots isalleged to have played golf here in 1567.

5 Levenhall Links – 134 hectares of reclaimed landwidely recognised as being one of the best places towatch birds on the Scottish mainland.

6 Prestongrange Industrial Heritage Museum – site offormer colliery and where the industrial heritage ofPrestonpans is interpreted. A site of industrial heritagesince the 13th century.

7 Morrison’s Haven – historic harbour, now disused, butoriginally established by the monks of Newbattle Abbeyin 1526.

Directions: From Fisherrow Harbour follow the signposts for the JohnMuir Way along the promenade and around the rivermouth to cross the pedestrian bridge. Turn left followingthe river downstream until another sign at the end of theroad is reached. Continue across the playing field to reachthe track adjacent to the perimeter sea wall. Follow thistrack for approximately 2km until a sign points inlandacross a grass meadow; follow this to eventually reachRavenshaugh Road. Follow the signposted route of theJohn Muir Way left via Morrison’s Haven and continuealong the John Muir Way to reach Prestonpans.

Public Transport: Regular coastal bus service. Rail stations at Musselburgh,Wallyford and Prestonpans.

Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and public toilets atMusselburgh and Prestonpans.

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PRESTONPANS

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View from Fa’side Hill towards Edinburgh

Wallyford Sculpture Trail

Fa’side Castle

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Start: Wallyford Train StationFinish: Prestonpans Train Station

Distance: 8 km/5 miles (one way)Time: 2½ - 3 hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Paths and quiet roads mostly. Fa’side Hill involves 360 feetof steep climbing over 2.5km from Wallyford (more gradualapproach from Prestonpans).

Points of Interest: 1 Fa’side Castle (private house, no access) – a restored 15th century tower.

2 Fa’side Hill – good views of the coast and the formercoalfields of East Lothian.

3 Tranent Church – built in 1800 on the foundations ofan earlier 15th century church.

4 ‘The Bing’ and Battle of Prestonpans interpretationpoint – panoramic views of the site of Bonnie PrinceCharlie’s victory in 1745.

5 Colonel Gardiner’s Monument – Colonel Gardinerwas killed in the Battle of Prestonpans.

6 Bankton House (private house, no access) –beautifully restored 18th century building, formerlyColonel Gardiner’s house.

Directions: From Wallyford Rail Station, head eastwards to InchviewRoad and continue uphill beyond the houses to a widepath. After a short distance turn right through a kissinggate. Follow the path, stopping to notice occasional stoneblocks carved with images reflecting mining heritage andforming the Wallyford Sculpture Trail. Continue until youreach a pedestrian bridge over the A1. Cross this andcontinue straight ahead, starting to ascend the steep pathto Fa’side Hill. At the top of the hill, just beyond Fa’sideCastle, turn left on to a quiet road. Continue on this road,taking care and looking out for traffic, turning right afterapproximately 1 mile/1.6km to enter Lammermoor Terracein Tranent. Continue on this road heading into town and asthe road curves towards Edinburgh Road head for the stepsto ‘The Heugh.’ Continue on the path under the bridge of thebusy A199. Continue straight ahead and eventually crossingunder the A1. Beyond the tunnel make for the ‘Bing’ andclimb the path up to the viewpoint. Descend and turn leftonto the signposted path to make for Prestonpans Station.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service between Wallyford andPrestonpans.

Local Services: There are shops, cafes and restaurants in Wallyford,Tranent, and Prestonpans.

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Seton Collegiate Church

Seton House

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John Muir Way

Route 4 Seton Collegiate Church

Start and Finish: Port Seton, just west of Seton Sands holiday campDistance: 3 km/2 miles

Time: 1 hourTerrain and path information: Paths, tracks, pavements and quiet roads.

Points of Interest: 1 Seton Collegiate Church – a fifteenth century church built by the powerful Seton family. Historic Scotland property.

2 Seton House (private house, no access) – lavishRobert Adam designed house, on the site of SetonPalace former home of the Seton family.

3 Seton Mill – the stream here once drove a series ofwater mills.

Directions: From the B1348 coast road follow the Sandy Walk inland,bearing west to the Fisher’s Road and then continuing untilyou meet the B1361. Turn left, heading east, passing theentrance to Seton House, a private residence, and take thepath to the Collegiate Church shortly after. Pass theentrance gate and join a faint path through the wood andacross a field to meet the Sandy Walk again. Head back tothe coast.

Public Transport: Regular coastal bus service to Prestonpans.

Local Services: Port Seton is well served by shops, cafes and public toilets.

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Robin

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St Mary’s Church, Haddington

Crown Copyright. OS Licence 100023381

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R. Tyne

HADDINGTON

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Route 5 Longniddry to Haddington Railway Walk and the River Tyne Path

Start: Longniddry Rail StationFinish: Haddington

Distance: 11.4 km/7 miles (one way)Time: 3 – 3½ hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Well surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1 Former Railway Line - this branch line was opened in 1846 and carried passengers and farm produce to Edinburgh. The line closed in 1968.

2 Redhouse Castle – 15th century tower house that canbe seen from the Railway Walk.

3 Lots of wildlife watching opportunities - hedgerowsand woodland along the route offer shelter to a greatdiversity of wildlife and many rare wild flowers.

4 Hopetoun Monument – this monument, visible fromthe Railway Walk, was dedicated to John Hope, the 4thEarl of Hopetoun (1765-1823) and built in 1824.

5 River Tyne Path – moorhens, swans, ducks and heronsare usually seen on the river and the path is flankedwith mature trees.

6 St Mary’s Church – dating from the 14th century.Restored in 1971. Visitor interpretation and café.

7 Nungate Bridge – a 16th century bridge.8 Haddington Town House – built to a plan by William

Adam in 1748.

Directions: From Longniddry Rail Station head east along the B1377and cross the road to follow the signs for the Railway Walk.Continue on the Railway Walk for 7km/4½ miles to the endat Alderston Road, Haddington. From here turn right todescend to West Road (B6471) and cross straight overmaking for the path by the red letterbox. Follow this as itleads into Burnside and then Clerkington Road, eventuallyleading to the Pencaitland Road (A6093). From here turnleft and then immediate right across the road and downLong Cram. After approximately 200m, the path leading tothe River Tyne path is joined on the right hand side of thestreet. Continue on the River Tyne path to the town centre.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail services to Longniddry andHaddington.

Local Services: Shops, eating places and public toilets in Longniddry andHaddington.

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Route 5continued on map below

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Storage Buildings,Aberlady

Saltcoats Castle

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Route 6 Aberlady to Gullane on the John Muir Way

Start: AberladyFinish: Gullane

Distance: 5 km/3 miles (one way)Time: 1½ - 2 hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Well surfaced paths and pavements.

Points of Interest: 1 Scottish Ornithologists' Club, Waterston House – the Headquarters of the SOC, which holds the largestlibrary of bird literature in Scotland.

2 Aberlady Church – the tower dates from the 15thcentury and is reputed to be on the site of a muchearlier Celtic church.

3 ‘Loupin on Stane’ and Mercat Cross – dating fromthe 18th century.

4 Aberlady Bay – the Royal Burgh of Haddington’s port,which was established here in 1149. The Bay is also ahaven for thousands of waders and wildfowl.

5 Luffness House – late 16th century tower house anddoocot possibly on the site of 14th centuryfortification. Formerly site of Carmelite Friary firstmentioned in 1335-6, but may have been founded inthe previous century.

6 Saltcoats Castle (no access) – a late 16th centuryfortified tower with doocot.

Directions: From the church on Main Street head east along thepavement out of Aberlady and follow the John Muir Way.After approximately 1¼ miles/2km the John Muir Waycrosses the main road. Cross the road carefully here.Continue on the John Muir Way until you meet the trackfrom Saltcoats Farm. Continue on this into Gullane forfood and refreshments or for the bus back to the start.

Public Transport: Regular bus service to Aberlady and Gullane.

Local Services: There are shops, cafes, restaurants and public toilets inAberlady and Gullane.

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Tank traps

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Route 7 Gullane Circular

Start & Finish: Gullane Bents Car ParkDistance: 7.5 km/5 miles (2 km/1¼ miles for shorter option)

Time: 2-2½ hours (40 minutes for shorter option)Terrain and path information: Grassy paths and tracks, sandy beach.

Points of Interest: 1 Gullane Bents – much of the dune area has been replanted with sea buckthorn to combat the constantthreat of erosion. Large flocks of fieldfares can be seenfeeding on this in winter. Wild flowers such as viper'sbugloss can be seen in the nutrient poor soils.

2 Tank traps – defensive relics of WWII.3 Good views out over Gullane Point and the Firth of

Forth.4 Muirfield Golf Course – host to the Open

Championship.5 St Patrick’s Chapel – known to have been in existence

in the early part of the 16th century.

Directions: Cross the car park to the south–west corner and gothrough the narrow ‘vennel’ path leading to Hill Road.Turn right, continue uphill to the top of the road and gothrough the metal gate where there is a waymarked trailacross Gullane Hill and the golf course. Continue on this asthe path descends to a junction with another path signedfor “Gullane Point” (W) and “Gullane Bents” (E). Take thepath to “Gullane Point” out to the headland aboveHummell Rocks. After taking in the fine views of GullanePoint retrace your steps back to the signposts, this timefollowing the route for “Gullane Bents” back to the carpark. You can finish here.

However, for the longer route continue on the mown-grasspath out of the car park to Marine Terrace. Take thewaymarked trail immediately on your left, and afterapproximately 1km bear to the right at a junction of paths.The path eventually goes through a wood before emergingonto a wide track. Turn left and continue around a smallpromontory. Continue on this track past the ruins of abuilding near the beach and the Black Rocks. Follow thepath by the beach until you reach the path leading back tothe car park.

Public Transport: Regular bus service to Gullane on the Edinburgh – NorthBerwick coastal route.

Local Services: There are shops, cafes, restaurants and public toilets inGullane.

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Dirleton Castle

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Route 8 Dirleton and Yellowcraig Circular

Start & Finish: Yellowcraig Car ParkDistance: 6 km/4 miles (1 km/ 5/8 mile for shorter option)

Time: 1½ - 2 hours (allow longer for visiting the Castle)(20 minutes for shorter option)

Terrain and path information: Grassy paths and tracks, road.

Points of Interest: 1 Yellow Craig – this is part of an ancient volcano that erupted in Carboniferous times, over 340 million years ago. There are fine views of the coast, east and west, from the summit.

2 Fidra Island and lighthouse – the Cistercian Nuns ofNorth Berwick had a hermitage on the island from 1154.This was also the site of Castle Tarbet, which precededDirleton Castle. The lighthouse dates from 1885 andwas the first to be automated in Scotland in 1970.

3 Bird watching – in summer look out for eiders, greatcrested and red-necked grebes. On the sea look forpuffins from Fidra or Craigleith and passing manxshearwaters from further afield.

4 Dirleton Gallery – exhibition space and coffee shop5 Dirleton Auld Kirk - The sixteenth century Kirk houses

the beautiful 'Archerfield window', a stained glassdepiction of wildlife found in the local area.

6 Dirleton Castle – built in 1220, and substantiallyre-built in the 15th century.

Directions: From the Yellowcraig car park follow the path into the wood,next to the bicycle racks, and continue eastwards until youalmost reach the boundary wall of the plantation by somewind-twisted pines. From here there is an option to climb tothe top of Yellow Craig: ascend the steps, with care, to takein the panoramic views of the coast. Follow the path infront of the toilet block and continue to reach the main pathto the beach. Enjoy the beautiful views of Fidra and thecoastline from the beach. You can return to the car park viathe path that leaves the beach to the left. You can finish here.To continue on the longer route turn right along the southside of wood just before the interpretation panel by thefence. Follow the track by the side of the wood and afterapproximately 500m leave this to follow a field track toDirleton village. Take time to enjoy the charming setting ofthe village, church and castle. Turn left and follow the signsfor Yellowcraig, taking care on the road back to the car park.

Public Transport: Regular bus service to Dirleton on the Edinburgh – NorthBerwick coastal route.

Local Services: Dirleton has a variety of eating places and services.

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Path toNorth Berwick Law

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Route 9 North Berwick and the Law

Start: Scottish Seabird CentreFinish: North Berwick Law

Distance: 3 km/2 miles (one way)Time: 1½ - 2 hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements. Steep climb(178 metres/583 feet) to the top of the Law.

Points of Interest: 1 Scottish Seabird Centre – lots of opportunities for learning about the amazing wildlife of the Firth of Forth and its islands.

2 St Andrew's Old Kirk – ancient church with remainsdating from the 12th – 17th centuries surrounded bymedieval graveyard. Recent excavations have identifiedeven earlier remains.

3 Boat trips – many operators sail from North BerwickHarbour.

4 Lodge Gardens and Grounds – victorian designedPublic Park.

5 North Berwick Law is the remnant of ancient volcanicactivity and is a typical ‘Crag and Tail’ land formationas a result of glacial erosion during the Ice Age. There is also an earlier Iron Age hill fort, a Napoleoniclookout shelter on the Law, used during World War I.There are great views from the summit of the BassRock, Craigleith, and the Forth islands; as well asTantallon Castle to the east.

Directions: Head south on Victoria Road and Quality Street. Continuethrough the Lodge Gardens and Grounds, keeping straightahead to emerge on to St Baldred’s Road. Cross the roadand follow the signs for the John Muir Way, straight aheadand along the path over the tree-covered knoll andcontinue to Lochbridge Road. Turn right and at the end ofthe road turn left and follow the path to the car park. Fromthe car park follow the main path to the summit of theLaw. This is a very steep ascent, but well worth the effortfor the views from the top. Please note that there arehidden drops along the route and that grass slopes can bevery slippery – please take care. Retrace your steps to makeyour way back to North Berwick and local services.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service to North Berwick.

Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and drink, and public toiletsin North Berwick.

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Route 10 North Berwick Circular

Start and Finish: Scottish Seabird CentreDistance: 4 km/2.5 miles (one way)

Time: 1 - 1½ hours (one way)Terrain and path information: Mostly paths and well-surfaced pavements, some steep

steps at Rhodes Braes and The Glen.

Points of Interest: 1 Scottish Seabird Centre – Scottish Seabird Centre – as Route 9.

2 St Andrew's Old Kirk – as Route 9.3 Boat trips – as Route 9.4 Milsey Bay – there is evidence here of lava-flow with

enormous deposits of volcanic ash, forming flat redtuffs that are visible at low tide.

5 The Glen – the ruins of the Mills of Kintreath can beseen here. These are recorded in a charter of 1434 andbelonged to North Berwick Priory.

6 Castle Hill – thought to be the site of the original DeVaux castle prior to this Norman family buildingDirleton Castle in 1220. There are great panoramicviews of Milsey Bay, the Bass Rock, Craigleith, and theForth islands.

7 Lodge Gardens and Grounds – Victorian designedPublic Park.

Directions: Head east along the pavement adjacent to MelbourneRoad, Marine Parade, and Tantallon Terrace, passing therocky shore by Milsey Bay. Just past the Scottish Waterbuilding, climb the steep steps on your right and follow thepath out to Lime Grove housing estate, eventually reachingthe A198. Turn right, continue for approximately 400metres, and then turn right onto the path down the Glen.Follow the path through the Glen. Near the end ascend thesteps on your left just beyond the ruins of former millbuildings. Continue along the path taking a short diversionto Castle Hill, which offers a fine viewpoint. Shortly after,cross East Road (B1346) with care to enter the LodgeGardens. Exit the Gardens on to Quality Street, and headback to the Seabird Centre.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail service to North Berwick.

Local Services: There are shops, places to eat and drink, and public toiletsin North Berwick.

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Traprain Law

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Route 11 East Linton to Traprain Law

Start: East LintonFinish: Traprain Law

Distance: 6 km/4 miles (one way)Time: 2 – 2½ hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Mostly surfaced paths, and grassy tracks. Steep climb toTraprain Law (600 feet/180 metres). Undulating terrainelsewhere on walk.

Points of Interest: 1 East Linton – picturesque village dating from at least the 12th century.

2 Tyne Bridge – ancient 16th century bridge, part of theGreat Post Road.

3 River Tyne - ducks, herons and dippers may be seen4 Hailes Castle – ruin of castle, parts of which date

from the 13th century.5 Traprain Law – location of prehistoric and medieval

settlement. Also associated with St Monenna and StKentigern (St Mungo) in the 6th century.

6 Great views of the Tyne estuary, Bass Rock, Craigleith,and the Forth islands.

Directions: From East Linton's village square turn right along StationRoad towards Haddington. About 50 metres after passingunder the railway bridge look for a sign directing you leftdown a narrow road. At the bottom of this road the pathturns right along the river. Continue along the path untilyou reach the footbridge signed for Hailes Castle. Continueto the minor road from where a diversion west may bemade to Hailes Castle. Retrace your steps and follow thesignposted path to the Haddington Road. Turn left alongthe road (take care as the road is a busy road) to bringyourself to the foot of the Law; follow the direction signsto summit.

Public Transport: Regular bus services to East Linton from Haddington (W)and Dunbar (E).

Local Services: There are lots of shops and places to eat in East Linton andinformation.

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Route 12 Dunbar’s Cliff Top Trail to John Muir Country Park

Start: Dunbar HarbourFinish: John Muir Country Park

Distance: 8 km/5 miles (one way)Time: 2 – 2½ hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Mostly well-surfaced paths, grassy tracks, and concretepromenade with several flights of steps. Stay clear of cliffedge.

Points of Interest: 1 John Muir Birthplace Museum – learn about John Muir's adventures and travels all over the globe, andfind out how you can follow in his footsteps.

2 Cromwell and Victoria Harbours, and ‘The Battery’– take time out to explore the two harbours and ‘TheBattery’ – a defensive structure built in 1781 to defendthe town from privateers.

3 Dunbar Castle – successfully defended in 1338 by'Black Agnes, Countess of Dunbar'. At Castle Park thereis an Iron Age promontory fort, and an Anglianstronghold has also been discovered. The castle is nowhome to a large colony of kittiwakes.

4 Baird Promenade – paid for and gifted to Dunbar bythe local Baird family in 1893. This is now part of theCliff Top Trail.

5 Belhaven Bay – this was the site of Dunbar’s harbourprior to the 16th century

6 Great views of Belhaven Bay, the Tyne Estuary andFirth of Forth. Great opportunities to view bird life –such as grebes, cormorants and eider.

Directions: Starting at Dunbar Harbour the path climbs steeply uptowards the Leisure Centre. After passing in front of theLeisure Centre follow the signs for the “John Muir Way”. Beaware that there are lots of steps on this section. Continuefollowing the John Muir Way along the coast, taking carearound the cliff edge and around the edge of WinterfieldGolf Course to emerge at Shore Road car park by BelhavenBay. Continue along the John Muir Way to John MuirCountry Park. Just beyond the public toilets at Linkfield carpark leave the John Muir Way and continue around theheadland of Hedderwick Hill. Rejoin the John Muir Way bythe bridge over the Hedderwick Burn and turn left to headback to the car park. Retrace your steps to make your wayback to Dunbar and local services.

Public Transport: Regular bus and rail services to Dunbar from Edinburgh.

Local Services: Shops and places to eat in Dunbar. Public toilets at LinkfieldCar Park, Shore Road, Belhaven and Dunbar.

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John Muir StatueOld Town House,

Dunbar

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Bilsdean Path

Bilsdean Waterfall

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Route 13 Thorntonloch to Dunglass on the John Muir Way

Start: ThorntonlochFinish: Dunglass A1 layby

Distance: 4.4 km/3 miles (one way)Time: 1 ½ - 2 hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Mostly paths, some steep ascents, shingle and sandbeaches.

Points of Interest: 1 Great views out to the North Sea, and the Berwickshire cliffs. Birdwatching – look out for eider and long tailed duckoffshore. Fulmars may fly overhead while at the wateredge you’ll be able to spot oystercatcher, turnstone andredshank.

2 Bilsdean and Dunglass burns – look out for thedramatic steep-sided ravines and the waterfall. Athriving fishing community was also based at Bilsdean.

3 Castledykes Fort – Iron Age fort.4 Post Road – Dunglass Bridge is a remnant of Great

Post Road from the early 17th century. Bridges furtherup the dean date from the 18th – 20th century.

5 Dunglass Collegiate Church – 15th century church6 Dunglass – a large sycamore tree, close to the remains

of the church, marks the centre of the ancient village.

Directions: From the car park at Thorntonloch, follow the signs for theJohn Muir Way to the coast. Turn right (south-eastwards)along the sandy beach. Look out for the sign for the JohnMuir Way taking you up the coastal slope. Continue tofollow the John Muir Way signs, past Bilsdean Waterfall.After this there is a short section along a shingle beach.Take care that you are not cut off by the high tide alongthe beach section. From the beach, look out for the JohnMuir Way sign directing you inland, up through DunglassDean. From here you can either retrace your steps back toThorntonloch or continue on to Cockburnspath for publictransport. Cockburnspath can be reached by foot from theA1 layby along the signed path from the John Muir Way.Check for public transport (see page 31) for return at theend of the route, or retrace your steps to make your wayback to Thorntonloch.

Public Transport: Bus service to Cockburnspath linking Edinburgh,Haddington, Dunbar, and Berwick Upon Tweed.

Local Services: Cockburnspath in the Scottish Borders can be reached byfollowing the signed path from the John Muir Way.

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500 metresnorth

Village Pump, Oldhamstocks

Dunglass Collegiate Church

Oldhamstocks

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Route 14 Dunglass to Oldhamstocks

Start: Dunglass A1 layby Finish: Oldhamstocks

Distance: 3.8 km/2.4 miles (one way)Time: 1 – 1½ hours (one way)

Terrain and path information: Mostly paths, and tracks.

Points of Interest: 1 Dunglass Collegiate Church – as Route 13.2 Dunglass – as Route 13.3 Oldhamstocks – lovely village and architecture on the

edge of the Lammermuir Hills.

Directions: Follow the signs for the John Muir Way from the layby,turning right in a short distance to go under the railwaybridge. Continue to the public road and cross over,following signs for Dunglass Collegiate Church. Continuefollowing the estate road round the right hand side of theruins of the church, passing a pond on your left afterapproximately 200m. Continue to the next junction wherea sign for a public path points left towards SpringfieldFarm. Continue beyond Springfield Farm to emerge on thepublic road to the north of Oldhamstocks. Unless transportis pre-arranged retrace your steps to start.

Public Transport: Bus service to Cockburnspath linking Edinburgh,Haddington, Dunbar, and Berwick Upon Tweed.

Local Services: Cockburnspath in the Scottish Borders can be reached byfollowing the signed path from the John Muir Way.

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Scottish OutdoorAccess Code

Useful Safety Tips

Know the Code beforeyou go . . . Enjoy Scotland’s outdoors! Everyone has the right to be onmost land and inland water forrecreation, education and for goingfrom place to place providing theyact responsibly. These access rightsand responsibilities are explained inthe Scottish Outdoor Access Code.The key things are:

When you’re in the outdoors: • take personal responsibility for

your own actions and act safely; • respect people’s privacy and

peace of mind; • help land managers and others

to work safely and effectively; • care for your environment and

take your litter home; • keep your dog under proper

control; • take extra care if you’re

organising an event or running abusiness.

If you’re managing the outdoors: • respect access rights; • act reasonably when asking

people to avoid landmanagement operations;

• work with your local authorityand other bodies to helpintegrate access and landmanagement;

• respect rights of way andcustomary access.

Find out more by visiting

www.outdooraccess-scotland.comor phoning your local ScottishNatural Heritage office.

Walking should present no serious problems even to abeginner, provided you follow a few simple rules.

• Don’t take unnecessary risks by tackling overly long ordifficult routes.

• Know where you are or have a map and the ability toread it.

• On longer walks, be aware of "escape routes" in caseyou need to cut your walk short for whatever reason.

• Make sure you have plenty to eat and drink and areadequately dressed for the length of time you’ll beout. Wear sturdy footwear.

• Check the forecast before you set out, always take awaterproof and keep an eye on the sky.

• Make sure someone knows where you are and whento expect you back

Road SafetyFollow the advice in the Highway Code: use thepavement if there is one and safe crossings whereverpossible, help drivers to see you, and where there is nopavement keep to the right, facing oncoming traffic,crossing to the other side before sharp right-hand bends.Take special care on country roads with no pavementswhere traffic may be moving very fast.

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Winterfield rock pools, Dunbar

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Getting to East Lothianand public transport

RailFirstScotRail services run from Edinburgh toMusselburgh, Wallyford, Prestonpans,Longniddry, Drem and North Berwick.www.firstgroup.com/scotrail

GNER [www.gner.co.uk] and Virgin[www.virgintrains.co.uk] serve Dunbar RailStation

National Rail Enquiries: Telephone 08457 48 49 50 or visitwww.nationalrail.co.uk

BusA variety of bus services link Edinburgh alongthe coast to Musselburgh, Prestonpans, andNorth Berwick, or inland to Tranent,Haddington, and Dunbar. Bus services also gofrom North Berwick to Dunbar via East Lintonand to Haddington via the Museum of Flight.A bus service also operates betweenEdinburgh and Berwick Upon Tweed, linkingHaddington, Dunbar, Dunglass andCockburnspath.

Eve Coaches www.eveinfo.co.uk First Bus www.firstgroup.com Lothian Transport www.lothianbuses.co.uk Perryman’s Buses www.perrymansbuses.co.uk

Traveline Scotland provides a telephoneservice for public transport enquiriesavailable by calling 0870 608 2 608. Lines areopen daily from 7am to 10pm, 7 days a week.Or visit www.travelinescotland.com

By AirEdinburgh Airport is 8 miles (12 km) west ofthe city. Glasgow, Glasgow Prestwick andNewcastle airports are also all within easyreach of East Lothian. For information onMain UK airports visit - www.baa.com

Where to Stay and EatThere is a wealth of hotels, guesthouses,caravan or campsites to cater for yourparticular needs when visiting East Lothian.

For practical advice, ideas and informationabout exploring Scotland click onwww.visitscotland.com where you can alsochoose and book accommodation;alternatively, you may wish to email [email protected] or phone +44 00 1506 832121. Look out for the“Walkers Welcome” logo denotingaccommodation committed to providingservices for the walker. This may includedrying facilities, facilities for cleaning bootsand outdoor clothing, packed lunches andproviding information.

East Lothian is also home to many food anddrink businesses offering a wide variety oflocal and seasonal produce.

Visitwww.foodanddrinkeastlothian.com/home.aspfor further information on locally producedEast Lothian food and drink.

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East Lothian Councilwww.eastlothian.gov.ukOutdoor Access Officers01620 827671 (East) 01620 827419 (West)Heritage Officer01620 82 7158John Muir Birthplace Museum01368 861951 www.jmbt.org.uk Local History & Promotions Officer01620 828209

OutdoorsScottish Outdoor Access Code0131 654 2466 www.outdooraccess-scotland.com John Muir Award01620 829904 www.johnmuiraward.org Keep Scotland Beautiful01786 471333 www.keepscotlandbeautiful.org North Sea Cycle Routewww.northsea-cycle.com North Sea Trailwww.northseatrail.orgRamblers' Association Scotland01577 861222 www.ramblers.org.uk/scotlandScotWays, the Scottish Rights of Way and Access Society0131 558 1222 www.scotways.com Sustrans Scotland0131 539 8122 www.sustrans.co.uk

HeritageCouncil For Scottish Archaeology0131 247 4119 www.scottisharchaeology.org.uk Edinburgh & Lothians Greenspace Trust0131 654 1933 www.egbt.org.uk Historic Scotland0131 668 8600 www.historic-scotland.gov.uk John Muir Trust0131 554 0114 www.jmt.orgNational Trust for Scotland0131 243 9300 www.nts.org.uk Scottish Natural Heritage01463 725000, 0131 654 2466 www.snh.org.ukScottish Ornithologists' Club (SOC)01875 871330 www.the-soc.zenwebhosting.com Woodland Trust Scotland01764 662554 www.woodland-trust.org.uk

TourismEast Lothian Attractionswww.visiteastlothian.orgEast Lothian Food & Drinkwww.foodanddrinkeastlothian.comGolf East Lothianwww.golfeastlothian.comVisitScotland0845 2255121 www.visitscotland.org

WeatherThe Meteorological Officewww.meto.gov.uk

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The maps in this brochure are reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with thepermission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office. © Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead toprosecution or civil proceedings. OS Licence 100023381

Photography by:

Nick Aitken, George Mole, Nick Morgan, Duncan Priddle, Colin D Read,Scottish Cultural Resources Access Network (SCRAN), Scottish Seabird Centre,VisitScotland and East Lothian Council

Page 35: East Lothian and the North Sea Trail

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Kittiwakes, Dunbar Castle

Rock pool, Yellowcraig

Tank traps, Gullane

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The North Sea Trail/NAVE Nortrail projectis partly funded by the EU through the

Interreg IIIB North Sea Programme

Front Cover Photos:Top row: Bass Rock; Foxglove; Seton Collegiate Church; Bilsdean coastSecond Row: Fisherrow Harbour; St Mary’s Church, Haddington;Wallyford Sculpture Trail; Common Blue butterflyFront cover main photo: John Muir Country Park, Dunbar

Longniddry Beach

Bilsdean path

★★

★★

★★

★★★ ★

www.eastlothian.gov.uk/northseatrail www.northseatrail.org