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GERMPLASM COLLECTION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF NATURA L DYE-YIELDING PLANTS

For. Guitolio G. Batoon

ABSTRACT

A study to identify and collect the sources of natural dyes that were used by hand cloth weavers in Namarabar, Peñarubia, Abra. The members of the Agaid Family headed by Mr. Luis Agaid and her sister Norma Agaid were chosen as the respondents of the study due to the existence of local indigenous knowledge and skills, willingness and enthusiasm of the informants to share their expertise in the native weaving industry, and accessibility of the place for proper coordination with the researchers. Results have shown that the used of indigenous knowledge and skills in color extraction, cloth dyeing, embroidery, and weaving was already a technology of the Agaid Family in the afore-cited place. It is also a sort of livelihood to sustain their meager income in subsistence farming. Furthermore, hand weaving and cloth dyeing practices are maintained to preserve the indigenous culture and tradition of the Tingguians particularly the Inlaod tribe. From the findings and experiences of the respondents, nineteen (19) species were identified with the researchers as sources of natural dyes. Thirteen (13) were trees, four herbs, one edible shrubs and one medicinal vine. Aside from sources of natural dyes, some of the species have economic values; sustain food for human and domesticated animals, provide construction materials, and used in medicinal preparation. The identification and description of the specie by their common, scientific, and family names are cited in the discussion of results. Of the nineteen identified natural dye-yielding plants, thirteen were propagated at the germplasm site of ASIST Main Campus. The researchers learned the indigenous method of color extraction from the respondents while the new technology of natural dye production was formulated by the Katutubong Kulay Project and the PTRI Laboratory in Metro Manila. The new technology is transforming the liquid form of natural dye into powder form. I. RATIONALE Abra is a province inhabited by rich cultural traditions and ethnic groups. It is a place of wide vast of rich environment and natural resources. It is located at the northern part of Luzon. On its east is Kalinga and Apayao, west, Ilocos Sur, North, Ilocos Norte and south is Mountain Province. The province is well known for traditional arts and skills such as pottery making, bamboo craft production, furniture industry, and the famous natural cloth dyeing and weaving. The Tingguians or Itnegs of Abra maintained the utilization of natural dyes due to their desire to preserve the beauty of their finished products. The art of natural dyeing is indeed a national heritage that must be preserved. And what better way to keep it alive than by re-introducing its use in the main stream of industries heavily reliant on colors (KFF, 1998). A number of agencies have banded together under one banner to revive and standardize the production of natural dye.

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Convenience is one factor that pushed natural dyeing industry to the edge of extinction. The traditional method was too laborious and time consuming to cope up with the increasing demands of users industries. For example, the demand for natural dye from tayum tayum, yellow ginger, and achuete by the weaving industry in several tons can not be met by farmers due to difficulty in the collection of raw materials and color extraction that could get several days to complete depending on the nature of dye source. Further, the specific shades or color could only be acquired through the trial and error process, as a result, the total production effort translates into costlier pricing.

However, natural color extraction from wild growing plants was converted to a more productive endeavor of livelihood and a ready source of income. Due to the advancement of technology, the indigenous method of dye production is alleviated by the products of KFF which is the natural dye powder form. It has all the attributes of natural dyes produced in the traditional method which means it carries all the advantages organic dyes enjoy over their synthetic counterparts.

The natural dye powder process is free from any environmental hazards since no toxic chemicals and or substances are used. Even the solid wastes are recyclable. For instance, wood based dye source like barks and leaves, roots can be used as fertilizer and fuel source (Gonzales, B.T., 1998). The Abra State Institute of Sciences and Technology (ASIST) was chosen by the Coca-cola Foundation Incorporated and Katutubong Filipino Foundation as partner to conduct scientific undertakings on natural dye-yielding plants due to the presence of researchers to explore further about the economic potential and because the raw materials used are endemic specie in the province. Likewise, the ASIST offers courses in Agriculture and Forestry with specialization in plant propagation, resources conservation and environmental protection. Reviving the interest in natural dyeing is a vision supported by science and economics which is a change in attitude and a second look at one’s culture. Farmers or interested parties who will embark their resources in natural dye farming will not cut down trees but to harvest the branches and leaves of grown trees, thus, the vegetation will remain as the protection of the soil from erosion until such time that the trees will provide saw logs and lumber that may be utilized thru selective cutting. In the end, it could contribute in the protection and development of the environment (Lasco & Pulhin, 1996). II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE Agaid, Luis (1996) in an interview with him said that dye-yielding plants can grow even in the backyard. They are not only easy to propagate but literally cost nothing. They are naturally attractive and do not fade. Using them promotes the unique beauty of the Tingguian natural dyeing and their endemic resource management. De Guzman, D. E., (1986) claimed and corroborated with Agaid that dye-yielding plants are widely grown and distributed in the Philippines and they can be easily cultivated in areas with high humidity. Of the 26 newly identified dye-yielding plants holding a potentially colorful niche in natural dye export market, most of the species are found and grow naturally in the upland communities of Abra. Gonzales, B. (1998) The Coca Cola Foundation Inc. envisioned finding a way to include the craft of natural dyeing of cloth in the curriculum of Public Schools in order to

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inculcate in the mind of the youth regarding the sources of natural color and the importance of trees. Hernandez, F. D.(1971) justified in their study of the Plants of the Philippines that natural dye yielding plants will not only yield dyes but provided various economic importance such as; food stuff, medicine, pH indicator and they are highly ornamental regardless of sizes. Lasco, R. D. & Pulhin, F. B. (1996) reported that annual Philippine carbon dioxide (CO2) emission is equivalent to 128.6 M tons and able to sequester an equivalent of about 100 M tons of CO2 or 78% of total carbon released. This implies that by reforesting the grassland areas, the Philippines could almost sequester all of its carbon emissions. The total carbon sequestered per year by Philippine forest represent about 0.11% of annual total global carbon emissions of 25 billion tons. Intensive planting of fast growing natural dye-yielding plants like atchuete, yemane, mahogany and tayum-tayum in agro forestry farms, and open denuded areas will surely help in the revival and upgrading of the traditional weaving industry. Likewise, it will contribute in solving the global warming problem because tree plantations are considered carbon sinks that reduced the amount of CO2 in the atmosphere. Tomboc, (1990) of the Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI) said that the government should continue its efforts to revive the natural dyeing technology to cut down the country’s heavy reliance on synthetic dyes imports and to explore advantages that can be derived from indigenous sources. Similarly, the National Statistics Office data showed that the Philippine imports of synthetic dyes and other coloring materials reached big amount of dollars annually. The Department of Environment and Natural Resources (Undated) have reported also that the textiles industry is one of the major sources of pollutants in the environment discharging harmful and toxic effluents in the water systems. By reviving the natural dyeing technology, it may contribute some measures in solving heavy pollution problem of the country. III. OBJECTIVES General Objective: To establish a Germplasm Collection Site for various Natural Dye-Yielding Plants (NDYP) used by cloth weavers in the Province of Abra. Specifically it aimed to:

1. Engage in the study of the habitat and characteristics of each dye yielding plants, 2. Identify the propagation method for each dye-yielding species. 3. Determine the appropriate collection method of raw materials for dye extraction,

and to identify the color extraction method used by weavers in line with the environmental conservation programs of the government.

IV. PROCEDURE/METHODOLOGY 1. Social Aspect

a. Preliminary Survey The study to identify the various natural dye-yielding plants was conducted in Namarabar, Peñarubia, Abra from June 10, 1996 to July 30, 1996. The members of the Agaid Family in Peñarubia, Abra was chosen as the respondents of the study due to the

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existence of local weaving knowledge and skills, willingness and enthusiasm of the citizen to share their expertise in the weaving industry, and the accessibility of the place for proper coordination with the researcher. Moreover, their products are well known in Abra and other institutions like the Katutubong Kulay Foundation and Coca-Cola Foundation Incorporated.

b. Data Collection Methods An interview schedule was the main instrument used, supplemented by personal interview or the question and answer method of extracting information from the concern individuals. In cases where the name of identified dye sources were not yet known or familiar to the researchers, the informants were very enthusiastic to describe the agronomic characteristics, habitat and phenology of the species up to the extent of collecting a sample for the researchers to ensure the botanical identity of the plants. As a result of the preliminary survey, it was known that the different natural dye-yielding species grow naturally and abundantly in the Province of Abra. Hence, collection and propagation of the different species was feasible also in the town of Lagangilang, and the neighboring places. After the identification and verification phase of the study, the different specie were propagated at the KFF Nursery. At the age of six (6) months some of the propagated seedlings have fully developed and were transplanted into the Germplasm area. Respondents were personally interviewed and asked to identify the NDYP that they used in thread and yarn coloring. Aside from describing the different species, the respondents were also very enthusiastic in sharing their experiences, knowledge and skills on how to extract dye from raw materials considering the conservation aspect of the natural resources. The Ilocano language which is a dominant dialect in the province was used during the question and answer portion of the survey. c. Observation of habitat by the researcher The researchers were brought to the field and were given a chance to study and observe the habitat of the NDYP’S that were identified by the respondents. They participated also in the collection of raw materials for color extraction and in the collection of planting materials for the germplasm establishment in ASIST. 2. Technical Aspect Sexual Propagation ►Media Preparation Top soil was gathered in Aguet, Lagangilang, Abra and pure sand was also gathered along the river bank of the same place. These were mixed together with compost before potting in a plastic bag. The presence of sand contributed a vital role because aeration took place in the potted media that prevented damages caused by regular watering of the plants. ►Seed Collection/Gathering and Propagation Collections of NDYP seeds were conducted in the different municipalities of Abra where they are available. Gathered seeds were air dried prior to sowing. Seed pre-treatment was done to ensure high rate of germination. Seeds were sown in 30 cm x 30 cm boxes and at least 200 seeds per species were sown. Watering was done as the need arises to keep the seed boxes moist and to hasten germination. It was observed that most

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seeds of large sizes like Tectona grandis,and Syzygium cummini have longer dormancy period compared to tiny seeds of indigofera suffroticosa and Bixa orillana. ►Potting and Transplanting Germinated seeds were transferred from the seed boxes into the potted media in a 4 cm x 12 cm polyethelene bags. It consisted of garden soil, pure sand and compost at a ration of 40-30-30. These were mixed thoroughly. Transplanted seedlings were cared and maintained in the nursery up to hardening period. Initial height, weekly growth increment and percent survival were measured and recorded. The planting stock has grown to a height of 30-40 cm during planting at the germplasm area. Asexual Propagation Rooting beds measuring 1 m x 1 m were prepared. The medium used was pure sand and zonrox was used to sterilize the rooting beds. Cuttings were collected from healthy growing species. The diameter of cuttings that were used measures to one centimeter and 100 cuttings per species were used. The cuttings were planted into the rooting beds in slanting position. The data gathered were; location of sprout in the stem that survived and number of cuttings that sprouted. Cuttings were only transplanted into the potted medium after distinct roots developed. Result shows that cuttings from younger stem sprouted earlier than older stems. Likewise, the former grow and developed robustly during the nursery stage. Under ground stems/rhizomes of the wild yellow ginger (Curcuma domestica) were used in planting. It was directly sown at the germplasm area. Maintenance of the perennial herbs after it was planted requires lesser labor cost and time because the plants multiply by production of suckers and this leads to aggregation of the progeny (clone). The young plants sustained by the parent plant at the start, but the former eventually contributes to the common pool of accumulated material which is important for survival. The rhizomes elongate continuously each year by growth of the terminal and adventitious buds. When the older parts of these rhizomes die or rot away, groups of individuals of the clone are separated and become new centers of dispersal (ASIS, C. 1971). During dry season, the vegetative parts above the ground will perish and only the matured rhizomes remained underneath the ground. This phenomenon could be the defense mechanism of the herbs to drought. ►Establishment of Germplasm After the propagated seedlings and cuttings have developed in the nursery, 13 species of natural dye-yielding plants were transplanted into the germplasm site with an area of 0.5 hectares which is located north east of the KFF Nursery. A one (1) hectare extension site is also located northwest of the Science Building which is planted to different dye-yielding plants like Mahogany, Narra, Yemane, Sapang and Kapok. Duhat and Banaba are pioneer vegetation of the extension site. The project serves as a venue of research and laboratory site for forestry and agriculture students. Protection and maintenance of the gene bank is essential to make it sustainable. From the time funds from the Coca Cola Foundation was terminated, protection and care of the germplasm area deteriorated due to absence of care taker and nursery aide.

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V. DISCUSSION OF RESULTS The direct participation of the Agaid Clan as informants during the identification and collection stage has successfully contributed in the attainment of project objectives. During the question and answer phase of the survey, they provided valuable information leading to the identification and evaluation thru local names of nineteen (19) natural dye-yielding plants. Moreover, habitat, phenology, economic importance and ecological status of the species were also validated with the respondents.

A. Characterization and Propagation of Natural Dye Yielding Plants

1. Common name – Achuete Scientific name – Bixa orillana Source of dye - Seeds Color - maroon Habitat – open field, back yards, and grow on almost all types of soils. Achuete can be propagated thru seeds and will start bearing fruits at the age of 3 years and remain productive up to 15 years. Local uses – food coloring as well as for coloring shoe polish, floor wax and flowers are a source of pollen for honey-producing bees.

2. Common name – Bangkoro/apatot Scientific name – Morinda citrifolia Source of dye – bark and fruits Color – brown Habitat – low to mid-mountain areas Propagation – Sexual and Asexual means Local uses – medicinal

3. Common name – Binunga Scientific name – Macaranga tanarium Source of dye – bark Color – brown Habitat – low to high elevation areas Propagation – Sexual and Asexual method Local uses – fermentation of native wine

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4. Common name – Duhat Scientific name – Syzygium cumini Source of dye – fruits and bark Color – brown Habitat – a distinct dry season and low to mid-mountain areas are favorable to duhat planting. Duhat can be propagated by seeds. Local uses – A good wine are obtained from ripe fruits and flowers are a source of pollen for honey-producing bees.

5. Common name – Kamachile Scientific name – Pithecellobium dulce Source of dye – bark Color – brownish Habitat – sandy soil, along rivers, brooks and low elevation areas. It can be propagated by seeds and maturity is attained in 6 to 8 years. Local uses – Bees visit the pale yellow flowers for their nectar and fruits are edible.

6. Local name – Karimboboa SC Name – Wendlandia uvariifoli Hance Family Name - Rubiaceae Source of dye – fruits and bark Color – yellow Habitat – low elevation area. Shade tolerant specie Propagation – Sexual means Local uses – enriched forest vegetation

7. Local name- Kotakot SC Name – Mucuna pruriens Family Name - Leguminosae Source of dye – bark Color – light red

Habitat – sparsely vegetated areas Propagation – Sexual/thru seeds Local uses – medicinal sap

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8. Common name – Mahogany Scientific name – Swietenia macrophyla Source of dye – bark Color – brown Habitat – low elevation and well drained soil Propagation – Sexual means Local uses – construction materials

9. Common name – Mala acle/kariskis Scientific name – Albizia lebbekoides Benth Family Name - Leguminosae Source of dye – bark Color – brown Habitat – low elevation to mid mountain areas Propagation – thru seeds and cuttings Local uses – wine fermentation 10. Common name – Pandakaki Scientific name – Ervatamina pandacaqui Color – white sap Habitat – open range, low elevation, it exude white sap Propagation – thru seeds Local uses - medicinal

11. Common name – Sapang Scientific name – Caesalpinia sappan Source of dye – leaves and bark Color – violet Habitat – low elevation and stony areas Propagation – thru seeds Local uses – promotes healing of wounds and stimulates stomach digestion

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12. Common name – Tayum-tayum Scientific name – Indigofera tinctoria Source of dye – leaves Color – blue Habitat – along river banks, brooks, and open sandy areas. The plant is propagated by seeds.

Each plant produces about 11,500 seeds. There are about 252 seeds per gram weight. The pods open explosively at maturity throwing out the seeds, which are then carried away by water and animals. Local uses – cover crop and for green manure. 13. Common name – Teak Scientific name – Tectona grandis Source of dye – bark and leaves Color – light brown Propagation – Sexual and Asexual means Habitat – low to mid-mountain areas Local uses – construction materials

14. Common name – Tinta-tintahan Source of dye – fruits Color – blue Habitat – along rivers, brooks, sandy soil and open range Propagation – Seeds and vegetative parts Local uses – soil protection and fruits are also edible

15. Common name – Turmeric/yellow ginger/kunig Scientific name – Curcuma domestica Source of dye – rhizomes Dye color – yellow Habitat – low to high elevation site.The species is shade tolerant. Propagation – thru rhizome Local uses – a condiment and as an ingredient of cutty powder

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16. Common name – Yemane Science name – Gmelina arborea Dye source – wood ash and leaves Color – persistent yellow Habit – moderately size to large deciduous tree Propagation – Sexual means Local uses – firewood, good fodder, furniture and flowers produces high quality honey

17. Common name – Narra Scientific name – Pterocarpus indicus Source of dye – bark Color – red Habitat – Grows throughout the country in elevation as high as 1300 meters above sea. Bark is grayish, fibrous and slightly flaky; leaves opposite and glabrous. The tree grows to a height about 40 m in densely vegetated areas, and propagated thru seeds. Local uses – raw materials for furniture making and flowers produced abundant nectar and pollen.

18. Common name – Paguringon Scientific name – Cratoxylum celebecum Source of dye – bark Color – red Habitat – low to mid mountain areas Propagation – thru seeds Local uses – construction materials

19. Common name – Hauili Scientific name – Ficus septica Source of dye – bark and leaves Color – gray Habitat – Thrives at low to medium elevations, especially along gullies or areas with abundant moisture. Small tree, 3 – 6 meters high. Propagation – Sexual means Local uses – medicinal

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B. The Traditional Method

According to Mang Luis Agaid, the following step by step process is the natural dyeing technique used by the early Tingguians/Itnegs. Equipment Like the early practitioners of the craft, a bolo for gathering and chopping the plants and a clay pot (or present-day steel kaldero) for boiling are the only major tools one needs. The size of the pot depends on the desired amount of dye (ergo, number of plant parts) to be extracted. Some water and firewood, a cloth or sack to strain the dye, a vat (or palanggana) for soaking, a place to dry the yarns, and you’re all set. Cutting Branches, barks, twigs, and roots are cut, pounded, or chopped while leaves are left as they are. The length of the cuttings range from three to six inches, though shorter or longer cuttings are not uncommon since there are no set measurements. Boiling and Soaking The plant parts are placed in a large banga (clay pot) filled with water. They are then boiled (using firewood) to extract the dye. While boiling, the banga is covered. A combination of plant parts or just a single variety can be boiled at the same time. The duration of boiling varies according to the plant’s parts and maturity. The shortest time is two hours while the longest can take up to five hours. Traditional dyeing follows no liquor ratio; everything is measured and mixed by simple estimates which, however, become more and more accurate by practice. Notwithstanding this trial-and-error technique, some maxims have been nevertheless noted:

♦ The more amount of water, the brighter the colors produced. ♦ Boiling several barks, leaves, roots, etc. yield darker shades; conversely,

boiling few plant parts produces lighter shades. ♦ The longer the plant parts remain in the solution, the darker the dye. As soon as the color comes out, the cloth or yarns to be dyed are immersed in the

banga and allowed to continuously boil together with the plant parts. After approximately three to four hours more, the fire is put out and the cloth or yarns are left to soak overnight in the banga. Some dyes require the addition of sukang Iloko (a variety of vinegar) in the solution to fix the dye. For some dye sources, soaking time is longer than 15 days.

The soaked cloth or yarns are hand-scrubbed and rinsed in tap water, then wrung to remove the excess color. If the desired color is too weak, the cloth or yarns are again immersed and left overnight in the banga. When doing this, the solution is no longer

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boiled again. The rinsing process is then repeated the next morning. Once the desired color is achieved, the cloth or yarns are rinsed and wrung for the last time. Drying The cloth or yarns are then hung and left to dry. Drying is not usually done under direct sunlight. The cloth or yarns are either dried in a spot with a natural shade or in a make-shift “shelter” with a screen (like a mosquito net or kulambo) overhead. Once completely dry, the cloth or yarns are then ready for weaving. VI. CONCLUSION The informants of the study were members of the Agaid Clan/family because they were the only resident who still practiced the traditional hand weaving and cloth dyeing in the locality during the conduct of the study. Other people will offer their assistance when the family can not cope up with large volume of orders from outside. For example, huge orders of finished products from Manila, Mampia-an, Bangued, Abra and the Partuat ti ABRA, located in front of the Provincial Capitol a place where indigenous finished products are being displayed especially during festival celebration in the province. The finished products colored with natural dyes are also open for sale to visitors and tourist. The users of natural dye-yielding plants in Peñarubia, Abra claimed that hand weaving and dyeing is fading away because it is laborious and time consuming due to scarcity of raw materials for the weaving industry. As it was observed and revealed by the informants, the public lands as well as private lands they used to gather raw materials for dye extraction were already covered by Tax Declaration and Land Title and were converted into residential and agricultural sites, Thus, to get inside those lands will mean trespassing which is a punishable offense. Unlike before, they are free to enter and gather raw materials in any private and public lands because those plants were naturally grown and free for utilization. As a tradition, raw materials for dye extraction are gathered from public lands or government owned land. Permission from the state or agency is not necessary for some time. However, in private lands, permission from the land owner was sought but without any rent or payment. As a structural accomplishment of the study a Nursery and a Germplasm were properly constructed. VII. RECOMMENDATIONS a. The Project should be maintained because the growth and development of trees

requires a longer period of time to reach maturity, hence young and matured species may differ in terms of dye color and volume.

b. The Project should be institutionalized for research and instruction. c. A nursery caretaker must be hired to maintain the project. d. Identify and introduce other plants that are not yet found in the germplasm area for

evaluation. e. In order to contribute measures on the problems of global warming, heavy reliance on

the import of synthetic dyes, and to create employment opportunities, the institution

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should continue in its role and endeavor to encourage land owners to plant dye-yielding specie.

VIII. BIBLIOGRAPHY Agaid, Luis. 1996. President, Namarabar, Weavers Association, Inc. Peñarubia, Abra ASIS, Consuelo V. 1971. Plants of the Philippines. Science Education Center, University

of the Philippines. Second Edition. Island Publishing House, Inc. Sta. Mesa P.O. Box 406, Manila.

Fernandez, Pamela G. 1993. Entrusting Seed Production to farmers. Department of Agronomy, UPLB, College, Laguna 4031, Philippines.

Gonzales, Barbara T. 1998. Katutubong Kulay “The Revival of Philippine Natural Dye”. Coca-cola Foundation Phils. Inc., Manila

Guzman de E.D., et al. 1986. Guide to Philippine Flora and Fauna Natural Resources Management Center, Ministry of Natural Resources and the University of the Philippines.

JMC Press Inc. 388 Quezon Avenue, Quezon city, Philippines. Lasco, R.D. & Pulhin, F.B. 1996. Consultation Meeting for the International Conference

on Tropical Forests and Climate Change: Status Issues and Challenges. Environmental Forestry Program College of Forestry University of the Philippines, College Laguna.

Tomboc, 1990. Revival and Upgrading of the Natural Dyeing Technology. Vergara, Benito S. 1996. Plant of the Philippines Pundasyon sa Pagpapaunlad ng

Kaalaman sa Pagtuturo ng Agham, Ink. Manila.