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Driving Tours of Puerto Rico

"The Panoramic Route" -- calledLa Ruta Panormica by Puerto Ricans -- winds its way through the

Central Mountains in the heart of the island for some 100 miles (161km). This is the most scenic drive in theCaribbean. The mountains are the home of thejbaro, the country farmer whose way of life is fast

disappearing in modern Puerto Rico. The agricultural life and ways of thejbaro, which have inspired some

of the most important works of literature and a whole genre of country music, still live on in the centralmountain towns, however, and this route is the most comprehensive way of seeing them. Expect winding,twisting roads, and don't forget to blow your horn as you turn blind curves. After rainstorms, there are

frequent washouts. Although locals speed by you as if in a race car, it's advisable for newcomers to go no

more than 25 mph (40kmph). In spite of some difficulties, it's worth the effort to cross through theCordillera Central's dramatic peaks and valleys. The Cordillera mountains rise more than 4,000 feet

(1,219m) in some places. You'll pass by Cerro de Punta, which at 4,389 feet (1,338m) is the highest in

Puerto Rico. These mountains have helped define Puerto Rico. Start: Drive from San Juan.

Day 1: From Carite Forest to JayuyaLeave San Juan early in the morning for the drive south, taking Highway 52 to exit 32, which will take you

to Rte. 184, also heading south. Stay on 184 as it cuts right through the most scenic parts of the Carite

Forest Reserve. Roadside grills tempt with the succulent lechn (roasted pig) sold at the area'sfamous lechoneras. Sanjuaneros flock here on weekends to enjoy the cool mountain breezes, the grills, and

even dance halls that line 184. There are also cool swimming holes throughout the forest and recreation

areas. For more information, refer to Carite Forest Reserve.

Highway 184 leads into Rte. 179, which you can follow out of the forest reserve (signposts lead to Lago

Carite, the largest lake in the forest). To continue west along the route, follow the signs northwest to the

town of Cayey, one of the larger towns in Puerto Rico's central mountains.

Once at Cayey, follow Rte. 1 south to Rte. 7722. On Rte. 7722, turn right onto Rte. 722 which leads directlyinto Aibonito, at 2,500 feet the highest town in Puerto Rico, and one of the prettiest.

Before town is the Mirador Piedra Degetau, an observation tower with a picnic area from which you can

see both the Atlantic Ocean to the north and the Caribbean Sea to the south, not to mention the vast

expanses of Puerto Rico visible to the west and east.You'll feel you've wandered back in time upon arriving in Aibonito, a former vacation retreat for the

wealthy, which is still marked by their majestic homes, as well as coffee plantations. The town is known as

a flower growing center of the island, and has an annual flower festival that is always worth a visit, sincethere is plenty of local food, live music, and other entertainment.

Beyond Aibonito, the Panoramic Route traverses the spine of the Cordillera Central for the next 30 miles,

offering awe-inspiring vistas along the way. You'll pass the Caon de San Cristbal, a canyon that cuts700 feet (213m) through the mountain chain, offering waterfalls and steep cliffs. Three rivers surge through

its ravines. The Conservation Trust of Puerto Rico has purchased surrounding lands to protect this natural

wonder and is working on establishing interpretive trails and an observation center. At its present level of

development, we recommend it only for experienced hikers.Beyond the canyon, the route continues towards Toro Negro Forest Reserve, a lush cloud forest, and Lake

Guineo, the highest lake in Puerto Rico. The forest is also home to Cerro de Punta, at 4,390 feet high,

Puerto Rico's highest peak. Stop inside the forest at the Recreativa Doa Juana, a picnic area beside a

swimming pool fed by mountain streams. The restaurant here serves good Puerto Rican barbecue. Thenearby Visitor Center, at Rte. 143, Km 32.4 (tel. 787/867-3040), offers you a trail map; it's open daily from

8am to 4pm. There are no supplies in the park, so bring mosquito repellent and bottled water.

At the eastern side of the forest is the famous Doa Juana Waterfall (Rte. 149, Km 41.5), cascading 120feet (37m) over a rock-strewn cliff.

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Head for the remote mountain town ofJayuya, surrounded by big green mountains, to the country

inn Parador Hacienda Gripias. From Rte. 143 cut north along Rte. 149, and then turn west at the junction

of Rte. 144 signposted into Jayuya. The inn is a wonderful place to relax and cool off from the Caribbeanheat. The town is also a great place to explore the island's Tano past. Make sure to visit La Piedra

Escrita (the Written Rock), a huge boulder beside a stream with Tano petroglyphs carved into it, and

the Cemi Museum (Rte. 149, Km 9.3), which has a nice collection of Tano jewelry and artifacts.Day 2: Utuado, Adjuntas & MaricaoLeave Jayuya in the morning, cutting south on Rte. 44, then northwest along Rte. 140 (which becomes Rte.

111), following the signs into the town ofUtuado, site of another well-known parador, Casa Grande

Mountain Retreat, which is another option for a stopover.With its Spanish-styled central plaza, Utuado still reflects its colonial roots, but it is also one of the spots in

Puerto Rico that most embraces its Tano past. Most visitors arrive here to explore the Indian Ceremonial

Parkat Caguaa, a 1,000 year old Tano site that was used for recreation and worship. There are

ancient bateyes (ball courts) and stoned monoliths covered with petroglyphs. This is the largest site of Tanoruins in Puerto Rico.

You can easily wander around for an hour or two before heading on towards Adjuntas, the heart of coffee

country, which you get to by taking Rte. 10 south. Adjuntas is known as "the town of the sleeping giant"because of its silhouette created by the enveloping mountains. In addition to coffee, it is also an important

producer of oranges.

Also worth a visit is Lago Dos Bocas, a beautiful lake surrounded by forest. Free ferries ply the lake and

you can take a ride to one of the rustic cafes along the shore. The lake is stocked, so it's a nice spot to fish aswell.

There is a tangle of roads leading here through the mountains to Maricao, a beautiful mountain town of

huge coffee plantations, and the last stop along the route. Travel along Rte. 129 to Rte. 111, then continuealong Rte. 128 until Rte. 431. From there, it's on to Rte. 4431, Rte. 124, and finally Rte. 120 into town. This

winding road changes its number so many times, you'll lose track; follow the signposts to Maricao and not

the route numbers, and you won't go wrong.

Maricao's Monte del Estado Forest, is the largest state forest on the island, and you can spend all dayexploring it. The coffee-producing town is the smallest municipality in Puerto Rico. It lies at the far western

end of Ruta Panormica, and is an idyllic retreat for exploring, as it's surrounded by mountain gorges, old

bridges, terraced houses, rushing streams of cold water, and enough switchback roads to challenge the mostskilled of alpine drivers.

The forest has swimming pools fed by mountain streams, a picnic area and campground with cabins for rent.

It's a perfect spot to have lunch here surrounded by mountain peaks. On hot days, the forest pools, fed bymountain streams, are particularly refreshing. Locals will do their own cooking on site, but you can also

bring food from any restaurant in town, such as El Buen Caf (tel. 787/838-4198), right on the main plaza,

which serves up cheap and flavorful sandwiches and plates ofcomida criolla, local island dishes.

There is a Visitor Center at Rte. 120, Km 16.2 (tel. 787/873-5632), which will provide maps of the forestand even hook you up with a private guide if you want to do more extensive exploring. Hours are Daily 8am

to 4pm. If you climb Torre de Piedra, a stone observation tower, you can take in a panoramic sweep of the

entire western half of Puerto Rico. It is open daily from 8am to 4pm (free admission).

The best place for overnighting in the area is Parador Hacienda Juanita, a converted, 160-year-old formercoffee plantation lodge in a beautiful setting. There's a wonderful restaurant on site, and meals are served in

a dining room and on a back porch overlooking a lush forest. Another option is to barrel on west down to

Mayagez, and then go on to the beach towns to the northwest or to the southwest. It's a 2-hour drive fromMayagez to San Juan, a distance of 98 miles (158km) up the west coast and across the north coast.