DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015 EN · DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN 1. General...

DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN

1. General Introduction

Fairtrade Standards support the sustainable development of smallscale farmers and workers in the Global South. Producers and traders must meet applicable Fairtrade Standards for their products to be certified as Fairtrade. As part of our standard development procedures, Fairtrade consults with stakeholders to ensure that new and revised standards reflect Fairtrade International’s strategic objectives, are based on producers’ and traders’ realities, and meet consumers’ expectations.

We invite you to participate in this public consultation on the Fairtrade Textile Standard. You will find questions on draft proposals regarding the ambition and scope, structure and content of the standard. You will be able to save your answers and return to the survey at any time as long as you access the survey using the same device (computer, smartphone, tablet etc.). We recommend that you read the complete draft Fairtrade Textile Standard along with this survey in order to participate fully in this consultation. Comments on the separate Standard document can be submitted to [email protected] between March 9 and May 8, 2015.

Elisabeth Byström

Senior Project Manager, Fairtrade International Standards & Pricing

PART 1: Introduction

http://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/standards/documents/generic-standards/2015_09-03_FT_Textile_standard_public_consultation.xlsx


2. Background Fairtrade planned a 2 phase approach for the labelling of sustainable textiles: Phase One designed for certifying raw cotton as a primary product with the use of a specified certification mark, and Phase Two for research and analysis of a certification mark covering the full textile supply chain. The extensive research and pilot projects of Phase Two led to cornerstones of a Fairtrade textile standard, outlining the essential elements needed for a standard to bring improvements to workers all along the textile supply chain processing Fairtrade certified cotton. In order to ensure proper support to workers and manufacturers processing Fairtrade cotton (and possibly other sustainable cottons) under a Fairtrade Textile Standard, a 5 year Fairtrade Textile Program (“roadmap”) is also being implemented.

PART 1: Introduction

http://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/standards/documents/Cornerstones_final.pdf

http://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/standards/documents/generic-standards/2015_02_25_Roadmap_public.pdf

http://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/standards/documents/generic-standards/2015_02_25_Roadmap_public.pdf

DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN3. Objectives

The impacts of a Fairtrade Textile Standard are intended to reach workers in cotton processing industries as well as manufacturers. For workers, the standard aims to ensure a secure household income, and an improved standard of living for workers and their families. This Fairtrade will do through enforcing payment of a living wage and robust auditing at all levels of the supply chain. The standard also aims at enhancing the influence and status of workers in the work place, as well as increasing their feeling of confidence, control and choice through organizational strengthening of and participation in workers’ organizations. Fairtrade recognizes the work of trade unions and is committed to working with the trade union movement in order to help them reach their objectives. Fairtrade also aims to ensure a safe working environment through rigorous health and safety requirements.The current scope of the standard is limited to workers employed onsite and does not include homeworkers.

The Standard also aims at increased environmental sustainability and improved health for workers. Requirements are benchmarked against leading health and safety and environmental standards in the industry.

For textile companies and manufacturers, the Textile Standard aims to improve efficiency through increased worker capacity via training programs and efficiency plans as part of the broader Fairtrade Program.

Fair and secure terms of trade are ensured with sustainable trading partnerships and committed brands via the Fairtrade Trader Standard and licensing contracts. The Trader Standard, in concert with the Textile Standard, provides a platform for certification of the complete textile supply chain and aims at making trade fair for all operators along the chain.

4. Project and Process Information The Fairtrade Textile Standard project started in March 2014 as part of the broader Fairtrade Textile program. The project assignment (PA) is available on the Fairtrade website.

Below is a summary of the progress to date and next steps:

http://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/standards/documents/generic-standards/2015-03-01_TS_EN.pdf

http://www.fairtrade.net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/standards/documents/generic-standards/2014_04_08_PA_textiles_Final_update.pdf


5. How to participate in this consultation You will find questions starting in PART 2 of this document. After providing information about you and your organization, there are targeted questions aimed at the following groups: consumers (C.1C.4); supply chain operators (SC.1SC.10); and garment and textile brands or retailers (B.1B.10). You are welcome to answer any of the questions as they are applicable to you. Questions A.1A.3 are aimed at all stakeholder groups. Questions on content in the Textile Standard begin with General questions on scope and ambition in section 2 (2.12.6) followed by detailed questions on selected requirements in section 3 (3.13.28). All information we receive from respondents will be treated with care and kept strictly confidential. The results of this consultation will only be communicated in aggregated form. All feedback will be analysed and used as far as possible to draw up the final Fairtrade Textile Standard.

We encourage you to give explanations, analysis and examples underlying your statements. Your written feedback is very important to us.

Other


This consultation is divided into the following sections:

0. Information about you or your organization

1. Targeted questions

l For Consumers l For Supply chain operators l For Brands/retailers

2. Scope of the Fairtrade Textile Standard

3. Content of the Fairtrade Textile Standard Chapter 1 General Requirements and Commitment to Fairtrade Chapter 2 Social Development Chapter 3 Labour Conditions Chapter 4 Environmental Responsibility Chapter 5 Trade

Annex 1 Freedom of Association Protocol

Questions in section 1 can be answered without the draft Textile standard. Questions in sections 2 and 3 refer to requirements in the draft Fairtrade Textile Standard. It will be useful to you to have Textile Standard [insert link to standard here] available to you while answering these questions.

PART 2: Draft Standard Consultation

Other,


DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN1. Req. # – Requirement number for reference to the chapter and section of the standard.

2. Year the year the requirement is expected to be fulfilled 0, 1, 3, 6 or 9 years, and correspond to the auditing cycle. Fairtrade believes that development is a continuous process of improvement; therefore some requirements in this standard are required at initial certification, denoted by Year 0. Other requirements are expected to be met over time, such as in the first, third, sixth or even ninth year of certification

3. Core/dev – this indicates whether a requirement is a Core requirement which reflects Fairtrade principles and must be complied with by the year indicated; or a Development requirement which refers to the continuous improvements that operators must make over time, on average. The certification body determines compliance based on a ranking of 15. An average score of 3 is required for the sum of all development requirements. For example, an operator may be making progress but not yet fully compliant on a “dev” requirement in the year indicated and receive a score of 2, while they exceed indicators (rank) on another and receive a score of 4. Their combined score is equal to 3 and would then be sufficient for compliance. The majority of requirements in this standard are Core requirements.

4. Draft Requirement – proposed requirement

Note that "You" and "your company" are used throughout this standard and refer to supply chain operators certified under this standard.

Other,


Please provide us with information about your organization so that we can analyse the data precisely and contact you for clarifications if needed. The results of the survey will only be presented in an aggregated form and all respondents’ information will be kept confidential.

0. Information about you or your organization

Organizational profile*Name of your organization

Name of contact person

Email address of contact person

FLO ID (if applicable)

Country

What is your responsibility in the supply chain (if applicable)?

If applicable, which organization in the Fairtrade system do you work for?

Cotton producer gfedc

Spinning gfedc

Ginning gfedc

Knitting/weaving gfedc

Dyeing, printing gfedc

Cutmaketrim gfedc

Finishing facilities gfedc

Brand/Retailer gfedc

Exporter gfedc

Importer gfedc

Licensee gfedc

Consumer interested in sustainable textiles and garments

gfedc

Other, please specify (e.g., advocacy group, consumer protection group, NGO, trade union, textile association)

gfedc

National Fairtrade organization gfedc

Producer Network gfedc

Fairtrade International gfedc

Not Applicable gfedc

Other (please specify)


These questions seek to get your opinion about a number issues related to the production of sustainable garments and textiles. Sustainable production in the garment sector aims at ensuring that a decent, living wage is paid to the workers involved in making the product that you buy, the work place is safe and workers know their rights and freedoms and are able to excise them. For all:

Question A.1 How important is it to you that one or more workers’ rights advocacy groups, such the Clean Clothes Campaign or the Worker Rights Consortium endorse the Fairtrade Textile Standard?

Question A.3 How important is it to you that governments – both in the producing countries and the countries where garments are sold – endorse the Fairtrade Textile Standard?

1. Targeted questions: for all

Question A.2 Are there particular advocacy groups whose endorsement of a sustainable standard you consider more important than others?1.

2.

3.

Very important nmlkj Important nmlkj Slightly

important nmlkj Not at all

important nmlkj No opinion nmlkj

Very important nmlkj Important nmlkj Slightly

important nmlkj Not at all

important nmlkj No opinion nmlkj


Targeted questions

The following section is divided into three groups: Questions for consumers, supply chain operators and brand/retailers. Please answer the questions that are most applicable to you.

The next section is targeted at consumers of sustainable textiles and garments.

I would like to answer the questions for consumers nmlkj

I would like to skip this section nmlkj


1. Targeted questions: for consumers

For consumers: The questions in this section are directed consumers of sustainably and ethically produced products.

Question C.1 How much (increase in % on selling price) would you be willing to pay more for a sustainable garment or textile product, labelled Fairtrade?

Question C.2 Do you think that product labelling is an important or useful way to create consumer awareness about the conditions under which a garment is made?

Question C.3 Are you interested in reading details about how a garment or textile is produced on a tag, label or website?

less 5% nmlkj 510% nmlkj more than 10% nmlkj No opinion nmlkj

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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Other,

Other,

DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion C.4 Would you consider yourself knowledgeable about the different sustainable standards and/or labels for textiles and manufacturing that exist in the market?

The next section is targeted at textile supply chain operators.

Yes, very knowledgeable nmlkj Yes,

somewhat knowledgeable

nmlkj Not really nmlkj Not at all nmlkj

Comments

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I would like to answer questions for supply chain operators nmlkj



Question SC.1 Generally fees for social and environmental audits are determined by the size of the operations, the number of workers, and the number of days required for an audit. Please tell us what you pay on average per audit for the sustainable standards you are certified or verified for? and please indicate in Euros.

1. Targeted questions: for supply chain operators

For supply chain operators: The questions in this section are directed to facilities that process cotton, including but not limited to: ginning, spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing, cutmaketrim and finishing.

Question SC.2 Does your company pay this fee or is it paid by another operator in the supply chain?

Question SC.3 Do you consider the cost of compliance (fees for audit and measures required to comply with a standard) with social and environmental audits to be reasonable in view of what you receive in return from the brand/customer/buyer?

My company nmlkj

Another operator in the supply chain nmlkj

Not applicable nmlkj


nmlkj

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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Please explain

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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion SC.4 As an employer and operator in the supply chain, what is your experience working with trade unions and/or labour rights organisations? Please provide details on which organisations you have worked with.

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Question SC.5 What percentage of workers in your factory are unionised?

Question SC.6 Is your company certified under, or a member of, any of the following sustainable standard or verification schemes? Please tick all that apply

Question SC.7 If you are processing sustainable cotton in your factory, what program is it sourced under? Please tick all that apply

0 % nmlkj ≥25% nmlkj ≥50% nmlkj ≥75% nmlkj I do not know nmlkj Not

applicable nmlkj

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) gfedc

Fair Wear Foundation gfedc

BSCI (Business Social Compliance Initiative) gfedc

SA8000 (Social Accountably International) gfedc

ETI (Ethical Trading Initiative) gfedc

iVN BEST gfedc

SteP (Sustainable Textile Production, OEKO TEX) gfedc

Not applicable gfedc

Other, please specify

gfedc

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Fairtrade gfedc

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) gfedc

Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) gfedc

Organic Cotton gfedc

Not using sustainable cotton gfedc

Not applicable gfedc


gfedc

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Question SC. 10 What kind of support do you expect from Fairtrade International in the implementation of the standard in factories throughout the supply chain? Support can be in the form of workers’ rights trainings, efficiency improvements in the factory etc. How many visits do you expect from the support each year? Please be as specific as possible in your answer

Question SC.8 Which operations in the supply chain do you control yourself and which do you commission to others/subcontract through suppliers. Please tick the appropriate column that applies for each activity.

Control own operationsCommission/subcontract

through suppliers

ginning gfedc gfedc

spinning gfedc gfedc

knitting gfedc gfedc

weaving gfedc gfedc

dyeing gfedc gfedc

embellishing gfedc gfedc

printing gfedc gfedc

finishing gfedc gfedc

washing gfedc gfedc

garment manufacturing/confection

gfedc gfedc

wholesale gfedc gfedc

retail gfedc gfedc

Question SC.9 Does your company have its own standard or code regarding social compliance in factories?

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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj


Comments

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Other,

DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENThe next section is targeted at brands/retailers.

I would like to answer questions for brands and retailers nmlkj



For brands/retailers: The questions in this section are directed to companies that sell textiles and garments with their own label or brand.

Question B.1 Does your company work with its own sourcing office in producing countries?

Question B.2 Does your company work with purchasing agencies in producing countries?

1. Targeted questions: for brands/retailers

Question B.3 What is your expectation regarding a possible increase of FOB price and selling price (in %) for a Fairtrade labelled garment or textile? Please tick the appropriate column that applies for each price.

less than 5% 510%more than

10%No opinion

a possible increase of FOB price (in %)

nmlkj nmlkj nmlkj nmlkj

a possible increase in selling price (in %)

nmlkj nmlkj nmlkj nmlkj

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj


Comments

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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj


Comments

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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion B.4 If you are using sustainable cotton in your garments or textiles, what program is it sourced under? Please tick all that apply

Question B.5 Does your company have its own standard or code regarding social compliance in factories?

Question B.6 Is your company certified under, or a member of, any of the following sustainable standard or verification schemes, please tick all that apply:What is your responsibility in the supply chain? Please tick all that apply

Fairtrade gfedc

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) gfedc

Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) gfedc

Organic Cotton gfedc

Not using sustainable cotton gfedc


gfedc

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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj


Comments

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SA8000 (Social Accountably International) gfedc


iVN BEST gfedc

SteP (Sustainable Textile Production, OEKO TEX) gfedc


gfedc

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Question B.8 What kind of support do you expect from Fairtrade International in the implementation of the standard in factories throughout the supply chain? Support can be in the form of workers’ rights trainings, efficiency improvements in the factory etc. How many visits do you expect from the support each year? Please be as specific as possible in your answer:

Question B.7 In your opinion should factories (processors, spinners, weavers, dyers, etc.) pay audit fees themselves?

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Question B.9 Fairtrade charges a license fee for companies to use the FAIRTRADE Mark on their certified products. The fee is calculated by multiplying the net invoice value of the sales or purchases (as appropriate) of Fairtrade certified products. What would you consider to be a reasonable percentage for this license fee?

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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Less than 2% nmlkj 25% nmlkj More than 15% nmlkj

Comments

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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion B.10 Fairtrade understands the interdependency in the supply chain from raw cotton to finished product. In order for benefits to reach workers throughout the supply chain, each company or manufacturer must make commitments to their suppliers. Would you agree to a minimum commitment towards your supply chain members, regarding for example lead time for orders, size of order, etc.?

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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The ambition of the Fairtrade Textile Standard is to improve livelihoods, working conditions and ensure rights in the workplace for all workers working in the full and complex textile supply chain, thus providing certification for a completed product on retail shelves.

2. Ambition and scope of the Fairtrade Textile Standard

Question 2.1: The Fairtrade Textile Standard is proposed to apply to all operators in the complete cotton processing supply chain for Fairtrade cotton. This includes operators at the ginning, spinning, knitting, dyeing, printing, and cutmake and trim stages. Do you agree that the standard should apply to all operators along the supply chain?

Question 2.2 Fairtrade is exploring the possibilities for allowing sustainable fibres in addition to Fairtrade certified cotton to be processed under the Textile Standard. On the one hand, opening the standard for other sustainable fibres such as CmiA (Cotton made in Africa), BCI (Better Cotton Initiative), and Organically Grown cotton could be in direct competition with Fairtrade farmers. On the other hand a Fairtrade Textile Standard aimed at certifying factories processing greater volumes of cotton brings benefits to more workers in the textile industry. What is your opinion about extending the scope of the Fairtrade Textile Standard to other sustainably labelled fibres?

Yes, I agree nmlkj

No, I don’t agree nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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Yes, I agree nmlkj


No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion 2.3 Do you think the Fairtrade Textile Standard should apply to fibres other than sustainable cotton, such as synthetics, wool, or linen for example?

Question 2.4 The geographical scope of the Textile standard is proposed to be open to processors in all regions covered by Fairtrade Standards, both in the global north and global south, with the exception of countries with legal restrictions on any of the required core labour rights covered in the standard (for example China). Do you agree with this scope for the standard?

Yes, I agree nmlkj


No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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Yes, I agree nmlkj


No opinion nmlkj

Comments

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Question 2.6 Additional comments on the scope or ambition of the Fairtrade Textile Standard?

Question 2.5 Fairtrade is working toward recognizing other sustainable certification and verification systems for textiles. Please indicate the sustainable label(s), social codes and/or initiatives that you would be most interested in seeing Fairtrade recognize.

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SA 8000 (Social Accountably International) gfedc

No opinion gfedc

Other, Please name:

gfedc

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The Fairtrade Textile Standard is benchmarked on the most prominent verification and certification standards systems for the Textile industry. While these systems address the key issues of child labour, forced labour, health and safety, discrimination, working hours, freedom of association and fair wages, the Fairtrade Textile Standard is proposing unique measures designed to ensure impact, along with a support program of training and capacity building in factories. These measures are particularly in the areas of living wages and worker empowerment. In this section there are specific references to requirements proposed in the Fairtrade Textile Standard that we would like your detailed feedback on. You are welcome to comment on the content, scope, level of detail, if anything is missing or needs elaboration, as well as the year for implementation and the designation core or development. This section follows the structure and chapters of the draft Textile standard. You are also encouraged to include comments in the standard [link to standard again here] directly, particulary reqarding any requirements that are not addressed in this questionaire. Chapter 1. General Requirements and Commitment to Fairtrade

l Compliance and continuous improvement

In order to ensure commitment to compliance and continuous improvement, Fairtrade requires that operators have procedures in place to assess their own performance. Requirement 1.3.1 details what is expected of the company and expects companies to have procedures in place at the time of initial certification.

1.3.1 Your company must have policies and procedures in place designed to monitor and assess your own performance and to ensure compliance and continuous improvement with the requirements in this standard.

Management structure and their responsibilities and the responsibilities of the Fairtrade officer, Fairtrade Committee and management representatives must be defined in the procedures. Your company must make these policies and procedures publicly available. (YEAR 0 CORE)

3. Content of the Fairtrade Textile Standard


l Subcontracting

Subcontracted workers are often the most vulnerable because they generally fall outside the scope of the certified company’s control, and it is therefore difficult to ensure that their rights are being upheld. Subcontracted sites can be dangerous work places that are challenging to regulate for the same reason. In the Textile Standard, through a number of requirements, Fairtrade requires that certified operators ensure that their suppliers, subcontracted sites and workers are in compliance with this standard through a number of requirements in the standard.

Question 3.1 In your opinion, are such policies and procedures effective tools to ensure compliance?

Question 3.2 Do you agree that these policies and procedures should be in place by initial certification?

Yes, I agree nmlkj


No opinion nmlkj

Please explain and give examples of other effective tools

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Yes, I agree nmlkj


No opinion nmlkj

Please explain

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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN1.2.1 Your company must accept announced and unannounced audits of your premises, including all production units and contractually require subcontracted premises that contribute inputs/material to the Fairtrade certified products, to also accept audits of their premises. You must provide all necessary information in relation to Fairtrade Standards as requested by the certification body. (YEAR 0 CORE) 1.2.2 Your company must provide the certification body with a list of all subcontractors used for the production of the Fairtrade certified goods. Outsourcing any portion of the work for Fairtrade production is not permitted without informing the certification body. (YEAR 0 CORE) 1.3.2 Your company must ensure that current and new suppliers, commissioned operators and subcontracted sites comply with the requirements in chapter 2 (Social Development, req. 2.1.42.1.9 only) chapter 3 (Labour Conditions), and chapter 4 (Environmental Responsibility), in this Standard (see 1.2.1). The minimum activities for the organisation to fulfil this requirement must be recorded and include: • Effectively communicate the requirements of this Standard to senior leadership of suppliers, commissioned operators and subcontracted sites; • Assess significant risks of nonconformance by these entities; • Make reasonable efforts to ensure that these significant risks are adequately addressed by these entities and your company; Guidance: This requirement applies to commissioned and subcontracted operators when the added value of their operation is 5 % or more of the total retail value of the final product, or if the process is essential for the product (ginning, dyeing, embellishing, finishing). (YEAR 1 CORE) 1.3.3 All subcontractors must commit by contract with your company to comply with the requirements specified in 1.3.2 and agree to be subject to audits if found appropriate by the certification body. Secondtier subcontracting by the prime subcontractor is not permitted. (YEAR 1 CORE). 1.3.4 In line with the due diligence approach by the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights, your company must develop a monitoring system that enables you to evaluate your suppliers in order to have full insight and assess risks in the working conditions in your supply chain.

DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion 3.3 In your opinion, are the above requirements sufficient to ensure that subcontracted workers and sites will be adequately audited and lead to improved conditions?

Question 3.4 Requirement 1.3.2 applies to subcontracted operators when the added value of their operation is 5 % or more than the retail value of the product at the respective processing stage. In your opinion is the parameter of 5% or more of retail value of the product an appropriate measure?

Question 3.5 If you answered "No" to questions 3.4, what % do you think should apply?

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Please explain your answer

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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

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1% nmlkj 2% nmlkj 3% nmlkj More than 5% nmlkj I don't

have an opinion

nmlkj


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l Workers involved in compliance

Fairtrade requires operators to confirm their commitment to Fairtrade values and in such requires a Fairtrade Committee made up of workers and management to support the understanding of and compliance with the standard. Requirement 1.1.6 below outlines the parameters for a Fairtrade Committee and requirement 1.2.3 is a specific example of how workers are directly involved in Fairtrade compliance. Questions 3.7 through 3.8 refer to the proposed text in these requirements.

Question 3.6 In requirement 1.3.4 above, Fairtrade requires that companies develop a monitoring system that enables them to evaluate their suppliers in order to have full insight and assess risks in the working conditions in their supply chain. In your opinion should this be a Core requirement or Development requirement and by when should it be applied?

Core year 1 nmlkj

Core year 3 nmlkj

Development year 3 nmlkj



No opinion nmlkj


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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN1.1.5 A Fairtrade Committee (FC), with democratically elected worker members and appointed management representatives must be created with the purpose of implementing the requirements in this standard and informing the workforce about Fairtrade matters. The tasks of the FC include but are not limited to: • Disseminate information on Fairtrade matters and audit results to workers either through a general assembly of workers or in smaller groups and through written communication. • Conduct periodic risk assessments and meet and consult with workers to identify and prioritize areas of potential and actual nonconformance with this standard. • Elect one or more member(s) as Health and Safety representative(s) • Recommend and prioritize actions with time lines to senior management to address these risks. • Facilitate periodic internal audits and report on these to senior management. The composition of the FC must reflect the composition of the workforce, taking into account gender and type of work and rank and the number of workers’ members in the FC must be significantly higher than the number of management advisors.A current list of FC members must be posted and accessible to all workers in the workplace. Guidance: In case a workplace is unionized, the trade union representatives may take on all or some of the responsibilities outlined for the FC. In cases where the union(s) does not appoint a representative or the organization is not unionized, workers may freely elect representatives from themselves for this committee. In this event, the elected worker representative does not in any way substitute for a trade union representative. 1.2.3 Your company must share audit results with workers following each audit in a way that workers, through their representatives, understand these results. Worker representatives or Fairtrade Committee members must participate in the audit opening and end meeting in order to increase worker involvement and understanding in the process of compliance. Time must be allowed for representatives to be able to understand the audit report and to inform and explain the final results to all workers. Workers participation in audit must take place during working time and it must be ensured that they do not lose income.

DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion 3.7 In your experience or opinion, how effective is this type of committee in providing an opportunity for workers to participate in monitoring and improving the conditions of their workplace?

Question 3.8 Fairtrade stands for worker empowerment and understands trade unions to be the most effective means for supporting workers in the workplace. In your opinion, would a Fairtrade Committee conflict with worker representative structures currently in place in a work place?

Very effective nmlkj Moderately

effective nmlkj Not very

effective nmlkj Not at

all effective nmlkj No

opinion nmlkj

Please explain

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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj

Please explain which structures you consider to be in place

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Chapter 2 Social Development Fairtrade believes in supporting workers through the strengthening of their individual skills, competencies and abilities. The Social Development chapter in the Textile Standard outlines the obligations operators must adhere to in order to enable worker empowerment. Questions 3.9 and 3.10 refer to the proposed text in the relevant requirements.

2.1.4 Your company must provide opportunities to workers and staff to develop appropriate personal skills and/or professional qualifications. Guidance: Trainings and other employee development programmes should focus on improving conditions of work and/or the position of all groups in the workforce. (YEAR 3 DEV)


Question 3.9 In your opinion, does the development requirement 2.1.4 meet Fairtrade’s intent to support workers through strengthening their skills and profession qualifications?

Question 3.10 Evidence shows that educating children is linked to improved livelihoods. Therefore, Fairtrade requires companies to ensure access to primary education for children of all workers (requirement 2.1.7, YEAR 3 DEV). In your experience, is this requirement applicable in the setting where textile operators are located?

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj


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Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj


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Chapter 3 Labour Conditions Fairtrade International regards the 1998 ILO Declaration on Fundamental Principles and Rights at Work, as well as all other applicable ILO Conventions as references for decent working conditions. The requirements in the Labour Conditions Chapter, section 3.1 intends to prevent discrimination against all workers. In the requirements in this chapter Fairtrade outlines behaviour that is not tolerated in the work place and policies that are required by the operator to ensure that discrimination does not occur. Question 3.11 refers to the proposed text in the requirements below.

3.1.1 Your company must not discriminate, support or tolerate discrimination …in recruitment, promotion…(YEAR 0 CORE) 3.1.5 Your company must not directly or indirectly tolerate behaviour, including gestures, language, and physical contact that is sexually intimidating, abusive or exploitative. This applies to management and workers alike. Your company must establish and implement a policy that clearly prohibits sexual harassment and ensure that all workers are aware of and understand this policy.(YEAR 0 CORE)


Question 3.11 In your opinion, do the policies in 3.1.1 and 3.1.5 provide assurance that discriminatory behavior will not take place?

Yes nmlkj

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No opinion nmlkj


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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENl Workers’ organizations

Fairtrade believes that workers are empowered through organization and requires that workers must be organized in order for an operator to become Fairtrade certified. Requirement 3.4.1 recognizes that trade unions may not be established in a workplace at initial certification, and allows for workers to create a democratic and independent workers’ organization in Year 0. Requirement 3.4.2 necessitates that this workers’ organization, by year 3, must be associated with a free and independent trade union that has an affiliation with an international confederation or global trade union. Questions 3.11 and 3.12 refer to the proposed text in the requirements below.

3.4.1 There must be some form of democratically elected and independent workers’ organization established to represent workers in the company and negotiate with management. Your company must respect the selforganization of workers by engaging with representatives of these organizations through regular constructive and supportive dialogue recognizing the imbalance of power whilst workers are strengthening their union and building their capacity to negotiate. Guidance: If workers wish to establish a trade union in the workplace, the company is expected to provide the necessary support to help further the capacity of those workers wishing to do so. Those workers will be afforded, within reason, paid time off to attend those capacity building activities. The local point of contact can support workers to organize and enter a process of collective bargaining (see 3.4.6) (YEAR 0 CORE) 3.4.2 The workers’ organization must be affiliated with a free and independent, recognized trade union representing workers of the certified company. Guidance: Only when a workers' organization is affiliated with a recognized trade union can it be empowered to bargain collectively. Free and independence is indicated by an affiliation with a global trade union federation such as IndustriALL or International Trade Union Confederation (ITUC). (YEAR 3 CORE)


l Freedom of Association

Fairtrade International follows ILO Conventions 87 and 98, and Recommendation 143 (protecting the rights of workers’ representatives) on freedom of association (FoA) and collective bargaining. To ensure company’s commitment to freedom of association, Fairtrade requires that employers actively accept and promote this right by signing a Freedom of Association Protocol (see annex 1 at the end of this questionnaire) and informing workers of their rights in a Right to Unionise Guarantee. Questions 3.133.14 refer to these documents.

Question 3.12 Do you agree that workers are required to organize themselves by initial certification?

Question 3.13 Do you agree that by the third year of Fairtrade certification workers’ organizations must be affiliated with a local trade union that has ties to a global trade union federation?

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj

No opinion nmlkj


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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN3.4.3 All workers have the right to join or form trade unions and to bargain collectively. Your company must • Respect the right of all workers to form or join trade unions; • Respect the right of workers to bargain collectively in practice; • Accept that it has a duty to bargain in good faith with unions Workers must take the initiative to organise themselves and must be allowed to do so independently of management. Management must not interfere in the process nor directly or indirectly conduct elections related to the formation, recognition or governance of this organization. Your company must not have opposed any of these rights in the last 2 years prior to application for certification. Guidance: If there has been any opposition to these rights within two years prior to application for certification, your company will not qualify for certification unless you can demonstrate that the circumstances have changed substantially, for example a change of management responsible for prior violations and a full remediation of violations committed. (YEAR 0 CORE) 3.4.4 Your company must not punish, threaten, intimidate, harass or bribe union members or representatives. Management must not interfere in the formation, recognition or governance of the worker's selforganization. Your company must not engage in any antiunion discrimination or discrimination against workers for their past or present union membership or activities, or base their hiring on joining or not joining, or giving up their union membership, or against external union representatives trying to organise members for the union inside or outside company premises. Your company must not make any statements or take any actions which interfere with (or seek to influence) worker's choice to form or join a trade union. (YEAR 0 CORE) 3.4.5 Your company must actively accept and promote the conditions in requirement 3.4.3 and 3.4.4 by signing the Freedom of Association protocol provided by Fairtrade International in Annex 1 to this Standard. (YEAR 1 CORE) 3.4.6 Your company must proactively and effectively communicate to workers their right to unionise freely create or join a trade union of their choice, through the Right to Unionise Guarantee, which is included in the Freedom of Association protocol, by at least:

DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN• Translating it into the appropriate the languages of the workers • Displaying it publically in the workplaces in a way that all workers have access to it • Ensuring that illiterate workers understand their rights (YEAR 1 CORE)

Question 3.15 In addition to signing the Freedom of Association protocol and communicating to workers their rights, what other tools might there be to ensure that a company not only allows workers to organize themselves, but respects and supports them to exercise this right?

l Living wage

Fairtrade believes that all workers’ have a right to earn a fair wage that enables them afford a decent standard of living for the worker and her or his family. Elements of a decent standard of living include food, water, housing, education, health care, transport, clothing, and other essential needs including some discretionary income and provision for unexpected events. Fairtrade requires that employers pay a living wage to all workers, and acknowledges that this must be done through effective negotiation with workers representatives and management resulting in CBA agreements. Fairtrade also acknowledges that some workplaces will not have effective workers’ organisations in the first years of certification to enable effective wage negotiations. Therefore, the Standard requires that living wage benchmarks, approved by Fairtrade, be used to guide wage negotiations, and also requires that workers organise into unions that are recognized to bargain with employers as explained above. Questions 3.16 3.19 refer to the proposed text in the requirements below.

Question 3.14 Do you agree with the content in the Freedom of Association protocol that is reflected in requirement 3.4.3 above (full content of protocol is included in draft Textile Standard)?

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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN3.5.1 Your company must set wages for workers and other conditions of employment according to legal or regional CBA regulations where they exist, or at regional average wages or at official minimum wages for similar occupations; whichever is the highest, with the intention of continually increasing salaries (see 3.5.2). Your company must specify wages for all employee functions and employment terms, such as piecework. Guidance: National laws and applicable CBA terms need to be complied with especially if they exceed this Standard. However, this Standard applies if it goes beyond those laws and terms. (YEAR 0 CORE) 3.5.2 If remuneration (wages and benefits) is below living wage benchmarks as approved by Fairtrade International, your company must ensure that real wages are increased annually to continuously close the gap with living wage. Wage increments must be negotiated with elected worker representatives considering the living wage. Guidance: Real wages refers to wages that have been adjusted for inflation. The real wage increase is intended to raise wage levels to an eventual living wage. Once a living wage is reached, wage increases are expected to continue to keep up with inflation. Negotiations on annual wage increases do not have to take place every year, as long as real wages increase every year. Negotiations can take place according to industry practice, for instance every year, every two or even three years, depending on the term of the wage agreement. If wages are set at a regional or sector level in such a way that the gap with living wage is not closed by regular increments, the employer can satisfy this requirement by increasing other forms of remuneration as long as this is agreed by elected worker representatives. If the company is in a financial crisis or if Fairtrade sales are not sufficient to justify an increase toward a living wage, wage increases will, at least, cover inflation until the situation is resolved. (YEAR 0 CORE)


Question 3.18 How do you see the role of trade unions for achieving the objectives in this standard regarding wage negotiation with employers?

Question 3.16 Requirements 3.5.2 and 3.5.1 rely on negotiations between workers’ representatives and management to arrive at wage increases, and over time a living wage. Fairtrade recognizes that workers represented by internationally affiliated trade unions can effectively bargain for wages and does not specify a time line by when living wages must be reached. Do you agree with this approach?

Question 3.17 The above requirement allows for the possibility that a garment or textile is labelled that it is produced under Fairtrade conditions even if workers are not yet being paid a living wage, as long as the wages are increasing and agreed by the trade unions representing the workers. Do you agree with this approach?

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Yes, I agree nmlkj


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l Worker safety

In section 3.6 Occupation Health and Safety, Fairtrade sets requirements to promote a safe working environment and intends to ensure that worker related accidents are prevented and hazards in the work place are minimized through specific requirements, including the placement of a Health and Safety officer who reports to the Fairtrade Committee and is required to involve workers in the process of monitoring safety in the workplace. Requirements are grounded on ILO Conventions C155 (Occupational Safety and Health Convention) and ILO Recommendation R164 (Occupational Safety and Health Recommendation). Questions 3.203.21 reflect on the OHS section in the Standard.

3.6.3 The H&S Officer in your company must meet regularly with the worker representative of the Fairtrade Committee to discuss health and safety in the workplace. The FC H&S representative must actively communicate with all workers on issues of health and safety and make suggestions for improvements to the H&S Officer. Guidance: The H&S Officer performs his/her duties in close cooperation with the FC committee and evaluates its complaints and suggestions for improvements. (YEAR 0 CORE) 3.6.4 Your company must ensure that regular H&S risk assessments are carried out, and safety measures are adapted accordingly. The appointed H&S member of the FC must be provided with findings of the risk assessment and suggested measures in order to report back to the FC. Guidance: Risk assessments are undertaken by relevant technical experts such as fire fighting brigades, engineers, technical representatives of machinery suppliers, internal teams (after training and if the company has the capacity), local labour inspectors and in some cases a medical expert.

Question 3.19 The guidance in requirement 3.5.2 states that, “If the company is in a financial crisis or if Fairtrade sales are not sufficient to justify an increase toward a living wage, wage increases will, at least, cover inflation until the situation is resolved.” What do you think is a reasonable lower limit for Fairtrade sales to be considered “not sufficient”?

≥ 2% of total sales nmlkj ≥ 5% of total

sales nmlkj ≥ 10% of

total sales nmlkj No opinion nmlkj

http://www.ilo.org/dyn/normlex/en/f?p=NORMLEXPUB:12100:0::NO:12100:P12100_INSTRUMENT_ID:312300:NO




Question 3.21 Fairtrade requires that all buildings and workplaces are safe and that companies train workers regularly on fire safety, evacuation procedures, and that fire drills must be conducted every 6 months. In your opinion, what additional measures would best ensure worker safety?

Question 3.20 Would you consider 3.6.7 a core requirement to be complied with by year 1 or 3, or a development requirement to be complied with over time?

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Core 1 nmlkj Core 3 nmlkj Development nmlkj



Chapter 4 Environmental Responsibility The environmental requirements in the Fairtrade Textile Standard aim to control chemicals and practices in textile manufacturing in order to reduce the negative impacts on workers and the environment. Questions 3.22 – 3.25 address specific details in the standard for your feedback.


Question 3.22 Fairtrade proposes in requirement 4.1.5 to ban processes with high environmental damage and pollution potential such as: chlorine bleaching, crosslinking agents with high formaldehyde levels, toxic and persistent organic and inorganic textile preservation chemicals, use of chromsalts for colour fastness, nanomaterials. If you have a dyeing or bleaching facility or a washing mill, do you agree with the ban on chlorine bleaching?

Question 3.23 If you have a dyeing or bleaching facility or a washing mill, do you agree with the ban of nanomaterials?

Yes nmlkj

No nmlkj


Please explain

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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion 3.24 Are there any other processes not listed above that should be banned?

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Question 3.25 In your opinion is the Environmental Responsibility chapter of the Fairtrade Textile Standard:

Too weak on environmental criteria nmlkj

Sufficient in covering the essential environmental criteria nmlkj

Too stringent for a social standard nmlkj

Please explain

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Chapter 5 Trade The Trade Chapter in the Fairtrade Textile Standard sets out specific criteria for terms of trade. Questions 3.263.29 address questions in the Trade chapter.

l Contracts

The Fairtrade Textile Standard will provide companies with an opportunity to drive positive change in the industry. Commitment to the new Fairtrade Textile Standard will allow companies make vital social and economic contributions to workers’ conditions in the entire cotton supply chain. Requirement 5.3.1 in the Trade section details what must be included in buyer contracts to ensure this commitment.

5.3.1 Contracts with your buyers must include a stipulation that they support your compliance with the Fairtrade Textile Standard by maintaining responsible purchasing practices, including prices that allow for Living Wages within parameters of the Standard, feasible lead times, consistent application of rules for evaluating quality, refraining from negotiating discounts after signing contracts and by providing other support as needed for continuous social improvement. If you purchase from another operator falling under this Standard you must agree to the same contractual stipulation. (YEAR 0 CORE)

Question 3.26 In your opinion will this requirement achieve the intended result of more committed trading partners, better pay for workers and reduce the frequent shifting of suppliers and short term notice in the industry? Please explain why you do or do not think so.


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DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENDRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_ENQuestion 3.27 The Fairtrade Textile Standard applies to processors in the textile supply chain, but not to brands and retailers selling the end product. Brands and retailers selling garments and textiles that will carry a label indicating a product is processed under Fairtrade conditions will be expected to demonstrate their commitment to their supply chain through a licensing contract with Fairtrade. Please tell us what you expect to be included in such a licensing contract. This can include, but is not limited to: lead time and volume commitment, prefinancing, responsible purchasing practices, pricing to allows for living wages to be paid to all workers in the supply chain within the parameters of the standard, adherence to the UN guiding principles on human rights, etc.

Question 3.28 Fairtrade believes that transparency in the supply chain is essential to ensuring that companies are accountable for their actions to workers, suppliers, as well as to consumers. We would like your opinion on alternative ideas for increasing transparency in the supply chain, such as publishing a company’s suppliers on a Fairtrade website, publishing audit results, etc. Please include as much detail as possible:

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Thank you

You have reached the end of the questionnaire.

Thank you for completing the survey and submitting your valuable feedback. All answers will be kept strictly confidential. We regard your input as essential to the process of developing a high quality standard. When you have completed all sections please click "done".

If you have additional comments on draft standard, please comment directly into the Fairtrade Textile Standard Please direct any questions to: [email protected]

Elisabeth Byström

Senior Project Manager, Fairtrade International Standards & Pricing


DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015 EN · DRAFT Fairtrade Textile Standard, 2015_EN 1. General...

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