Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2014
description
Transcript of Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2014
1www.discovertnt.com
Editor: Anu LakhanConsulting Editor: Jeremy TaylorOnline Editor: Caroline TaylorEditorial & Design Assistant: Marissa RodriguezResearch Assistant: Shivanee RamlochanDesign & Layout: Bridget van Dongen, Kevon WebsterSales: Denise ChinProduction: Jacqueline SmithGeneral Manager: Halcyon SalazarOn the cover: (Top) Port of Spain Waterfront by Chris An-derson L to R: Hyatt Regency Trinidad, Port of Spain Inter-national Waterfront Centre, Government Campus Plaza(Below) 2013 Soca Monarch, Super Blue (Austin Lyons) in concert by Aaron RichardsPrinters: Caribbean Print Technologies
A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP)6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad & TobagoT: (868) 622-3821 / 5813 / 6138 F: (868) 628-0639 E: [email protected] W: www.discovertnt.com
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© 2013 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of the publisher
ContentsWe are Trinidad & Tobago – Welcome 3
What you need to know about T&T 5
Calendar of events 12
We are limers 26
Top 10 things to do for free 28
We are Carnival 31
We celebrate 39
We’d like to show you … 45
We are hikers 53
We’re at the beach 55
We are contenders 58
We are artists of all kinds 66
We are shoppers 70
We are food lovers 76
We have just the place for you 82
Welcome to Tobago 95
We are saving the turtles 97
We’re sunning, surfing, swimming … 99
We are more than just beaches 105
We are divers 108
Things to find out about 112
Moving to Tobago 114
Where to stay 115
Getting married? 119
Maps 122
Index 132
2 Trinidad
Canada: [email protected] • Germany: [email protected] • India: [email protected]: [email protected] • United Kingdom: [email protected] • United States : [email protected]
3www.discovertnt.com
Welcome to Trinidad and Tobago, two wonderful islands where contrast and contradiction is the
norm rather than the exception – and for the most part, that works for us.
Trinidad is nothing like what you think of when you imagine a tropical paradise, but Tobago might
deliver on that front. Tobago is nothing like the frenzied party island you imagine when you think of our
Carnival; that is what Trinidad is for.
We are naturally friendly and easy-going and quick to laugh (at ourselves, the world, the person
standing next to us). We’re not turning on the tourist charm, it’s the national personality. Some might think
us frivolous: we just think we have a lively sense of humour.
As light-hearted as we can be, we can be equally serious. Cricket, football and steelbands are some
of the things we can be surprisingly solemn about.
We were once Indian, African, Chinese, Syran, French, Spanish,
English, Portuguese, Amerindian. It used to be a commonplace to refer
to us as a melting pot, but that is a bit of a disservice to the real triumph
of our all living together. While some things blend and fuse, there are
festivals, foods and all manner of artistic expressions that show real
influence from these old ancestors. And therein lies the magic. We share.
We are individuals and we are a people. And in this country that means
everything.
Anu
Lakh
an
We are Trinidad and Tobago
Ayan
na Y
oung
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What you need to know about T&T
Getting hereArriving by sea (yachts & sailing boats)
• Arriving yachts should have a
clearance certificate from the last
port of call, and the vessel’s regis-
tration certificate (or authorisation
for use)
• In Trinidad, check in with Cus-
toms & Immigration at CrewsInn
in Chaguaramas; in Tobago, check
in with Customs & Immigration in
Scarborough or Charlotteville
• Chaguaramas in Trinidad is the hub
of yachting activity, with sheltered
anchorage maintained by the
Yachting Association and strings
of maintenance and repair yards,
marinas and essential services
• There are no official anchorage
sites in Tobago, but Mt Irvine Bay,
Grafton Beach, Store Bay and Eng-
lishman’s Bay are popular. On the
southeast coast, Anse Bateau is a
good anchorage and fuelling point
Major international gateways Miami, Fort Lauderdale, New York, Toronto, London
You will need:• A passport valid for three months beyond your intend-
ed stay
• Documentation for return or onward travel and a local
address (non-residents)
• To double-check visa requirements with your airline
or travel agent (for many nationalities, visas are gener-
ally not required for visits up to 30 days)
Airports Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles
from Port of Spain)
Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10km/7
miles from Scarborough)
Transport from the airport Authorised private taxis are available at the airport: con-
firm the fare in advance (a list of fares is displayed in
the arrivals area). If in doubt, check the taxi dispatcher.
Authorised private taxis have licence plates beginning
with “H” (for “Hire”), and are not metered.
6
While you are hereMoney mattersMoney: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit cards are routinely used
Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1= approximately TT$6.4 (floating exchange rate)
Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; 15% VAT (value added tax) on most goods and services
DrivingWhich side? We drive on the left. Seatbelts are required by law
Speed limits (private cars): Trinidad, 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas, otherwise 80kph
(50mph); Tobago 50kph (30mph)
Driving permits: Visitors can drive for up to 90 days on a valid foreign or international licence
UtilitiesElectricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz
Water: Tap water is safe to drink (boil it if you want to be doubly sure); bottled water is widely available
Mail: TTPost operates the national mail service; FedEx, DHL, UPS and others provide courier service
Telecommunications Country phone code: 868 (regional code: 1)
Landline telephones: Provided by Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT)
and FLOW. Prepaid international phone cards are available
Mobile telephones: Bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate on GSM networks and have intro-
duced 4G broadband mobile service; prepaid SIM cards are available for unlocked phones
Public wi-fi• FLOW’s FSpots are available free at Rituals, Pizza Boys, Church’s Chicken, Mario’s and Boom-
er’s restaurants. Bmobile and blink broadband customers can register for free wi-fi at over
50 locations nationwide, including Piarco International Airport, Chaguaramas Boardwalk,
Maracas Bay, the Trinidad Ferry Terminal, Ariapita Avenue, the Cruise Ship Complex, West Mall,
Grand Bazaar, Long Circular Mall, Trincity Mall and Gulf City Mall
• In Tobago, bzone offers wi-fi at the Ferry Terminal, Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Gulf City Mall
(Lowlands)
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Getting around
There are basically five ways of getting around in Trini-
dad & Tobago: private taxis; public taxis and maxi-taxis
(plying specific routes); buses; a rented car; or with a
tour operator.
Bicycles are hardly ever used except for sports: roads are
generally unsafe for cyclists
Private taxisAvailable at the airports and the larger hotels; otherwise
summoned by phone
Public taxisRoute taxis are cars registered as taxis, bearing “H” plates.
They work specific routes, picking up and dropping off
passengers anywhere along the way
Maxi-taxis (12- to 25-seat mini-buses) operate in the
same way, mostly connecting urban centres (e.g. Port
of Spain to San Fernando) or servicing suburbs (e.g.
Port of Spain to Chaguaramas,
Diego Martin, Petit Valley, Maraval,
St Ann’s, Cascade). These “maxis”
carry brightly-coloured bands ac-
cording to their area:
Black: San Fernando-Princes Town,
connecting to Mayaro
Blue: Tobago
Brown: San Fernando-La Romaine-
Siparia-Point Fortin
Green: Port of Spain (City Gate)-
Curepe-Chaguanas-San Fernando
(King’s Wharf)
Red: Port of Spain-Arima, connect-
ing to Blanchisseuse, and to Matelot
via Sangre Grande
Yellow: Port of Spain-Diego Martin-
Petit Valley-Chaguaramas
Step
hen
Jay
Phot
ogra
phy
8
Getting aroundBusesBuses operate from Port of Spain (City Gate) to most towns, sometimes on an “express” basis,
and from hubs in Chaguanas, San Fernando (King’s Wharf) and Scarborough (Sangster’s Hill).
Check the Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC) at www.ptsc.co.tt for current sched-
ules and fares. Tickets must be purchased from the hub before boarding
Car rentals & tour operatorsLocal and international rental companies operate in both islands and at both airports. Check the
Yellow Pages
FerriesTrinidad-Tobago
Daily inter-island car and passenger ferry ser-
vice between Port of Spain and Scarborough
is operated by the Port Authority of Trinidad
& Tobago (www.patnt.com). All passengers
must provid ID.
• The T&T Express and T&T Spirit do the
trip in about two and a half hours each way
• Fares: TT$100 return; children 3-11 years
half price; children under three and senior
citizens (65 and over) travel free; passenger
vehicle charge: TT$150; tickets available
from the ferry terminals, and from some
post offices and travel agencies
• You can find the ferry schedule at
www.ttitferry.com
POS-Chaguaramas
• The POS-Chaguaramas ferry was intro-
duced in 2013. It takes about 30 minutes
and costs TT$20
Port of Spain-San Fernando
The water taxi service between Trinidad’s two
cities is operated by the National Infrastructure
Development Company (www.nidco.co.tt).
• The trip takes about 45 minutes each way
• Fares: TT$15 one way. Infants under the
age of one travel free; senior citizens (65
and over) travel free on off-peak sailings
Trinidad-Venezuela
Pier 1 in Chaguaramas operates a weekly ferry
on Wednesdays to Venezuela for TT$1,380
round-trip plus departure tax. Call 634-4426
for information
AirbridgeCaribbean Airlines operates several flights a
day between Trinidad & Tobago (625-7200,
www.caribbean-airlines.com). Both airports
have separate departure and arrival areas for air-
bridge passengers. Flight time is about 20 minutes.
9www.discovertnt.com
ContactsEmergencies Ambulance (public hospitals) 811
EMS (emergency medical services) 624-4343 (north Trinidad)
653-4343 (south/central Trinidad)
639-4444 (Tobago)
Hyperbaric medical facility
(decompression chamber, Roxborough, Tobago) 660-4369
Fire 990
Office of Disaster Preparedness 640-1285 (Trinidad)
660-7489 (Tobago)
511 in emergencies
Police: in Trinidad 999 or 555
in Tobago 639-2520 or 639-5590
Visitor informationDivision of Tourism, Tobago 639-2125, www.visittobago.gov.tt
Immigration Division 625-3571/2 (Trinidad), 639-2681 (Tobago)
www.immigration.gov.tt
Tobago House of Assembly 639-3421, www.tha.gov.tt
Tourism Development Company 675-7034, www.tdc.co.tt,
www.gotrinidadandtobago.com
Tourist information offices 639-0509 (ANR Robinson Airport, Tobago)
635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago)
669-5196 (Piarco Airport, Trinidad)
Trinidad & Tobago government online www.ttconnect.gov.tt
10
Our country Capital National capital: Port of Spain
Tobago capital: Scarborough
Climate Tropical, with a dry(ish) season from Janu-
ary to May and a wetter season from June to
December. The islands are just south of the
main hurricane belt, though they have been
hit by hurricanes in the past (most recently by
Flora in 1963, which passed over Tobago). The
daily temperature range is 72-95°F (22-35°C),
with an average of 83°F (29°C)
Location & coordinates 11°N, 61°W. Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21
miles) apart; Trinidad is 10km (7 miles) from
Venezuela at the nearest point
SizeTrinidad: 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles); 105 x
80km (65 x 50 miles)
Tobago: 300km2 (116 sq miles); 48 x 16km
(30 x 10 miles)
Time zoneAtlantic Standard Time year-round (GMT/UTC
-4, EST +1)
Official language English
Population1.3 million, descended from Africa, India, Europe,
China, the Mediterranean and the Middle East
HistoryPre-Columbian: the islands have been settled
since around 5,000 BC, originally by Amer-
indians travelling up the island chain from
South America
Colonial: Columbus claimed Trinidad for
Spain in 1498, but it remained a neglected
backwater until the late 18th century, the ar-
rival of French Catholic settlers, and seizure by
the British in 1797. Tobago was fought over by
several European powers before becoming a
British colony. It joined Trinidad at the end of
the 19th century
Modern: Trinidad & Tobago became inde-
pendent in 1962, and a republic within the
Commonwealth in 1976. It is a parliamentary
democracy holding regular free elections. To-
bago has a separate House of Assembly
EconomyMajor resources: oil and natural gas
Major industries: LNG, steel, methanol, am-
monia, urea, light manufacturing and assembly
Major services: tourism, conference and con-
vention facilities, financial services, construction
Indicators: GDP per capita US$20,400 (2012),
unemployment 5.3% (2012), est. GDP growth
in 2014: 2.5% (IMF)
12
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
* Public HolidayCalendar
1New Year’s
Day *
6
8
13
15
20
22
2
7
9
14
16
21
23
27
29
31Chinese
New Year
Sailing
season
begins
28
30
January
Carnival
season
begins
Chinese New Year
It’s the Year of the Horse.
Celebrations last 15 days
and culminate in the
Lantern Festival.
New Year’s Day
Friends old and new; par-
ties great and small. The
good-luck dish for bringing
in the new year is our pelau
with black-eyed peas.
Dam
ien
Luk
Pat
13discovertnt.com* Public Holiday
Tobago
Carnival
Caravan
2
3
5
10
12
17
19
1
4 11 18
24
26
28
25
27
February
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Tobago Carnival
Regatta
Held at Pigeon Point,
it’s also known as the
“festival of wind”. It is
a combination of four
sailing categories: Opti-
mists and Bum Boat sail-
ing, as well as the more
dynamic windsurf and
kite surfing classes.
Radi
cal S
ports
Tob
ago
Carnival
season
continues
Soca
Monarch
Finals
14* Public Holiday
Calendar
31
Tobago
Inter-
national
Game
Fishing
Tourna-
ment
Turtle nest-
ing season
begins
2Dimanche
Gras
3Carnival
Monday
5
9
10
12
16
17Phagwa
19
23
Trinidad
& Tobago
Golf Open
1Panorama
Finals
4Carnival
Tuesday
11 18
24
26
30 Spiritual
Shouter Baptist
Liberation Day *
25
March
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Carnival Monday and
Tuesday
From J’ouvert morning to Las
Lap and all the music and mas
in between, the biggest party of
the year is on.
Chr
is A
nder
son
15discovertnt.com* Public Holiday
4
6
11
13
18 Good
Friday *
20Easter
Sunday
21 Easter
Monday *
23
25
27
5 Jazz
Artists on
the Green
12 19
22
24
26
28
30
Jazz on
the Beach
29
Tobago Jazz
Experience
Point Fortin
Borough Day
April
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Easter Weekend
The long Easter weekend
brings horse racing at the Santa
Rosa track in Arima in Trinidad,
and goat and crab races in Mt
Pleasant in Tobago, on Monday
and Buccoo on Tuesday.
Ediso
n Bo
odoo
singh
16* Public Holiday
Calendar
Maypole
Festival
Rainbow
Cup Inter-
national
Triathlon
2
4
9
11
16
18
23
25
1
3
8 La Divina
Pastora
10
15
17
22
24
30
29
31 Indian
Arrival
Day *
May
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
La Divina Pastora
Pilgrims from all over the country wor-
ship La Divina Pastora in Siparia with
prayers, gifts, and a street procession.
Catholics recognise her as the Divine
Shepherdess, Hindus as Soparee Mai.
We pride ourselves on how well differ-
ent cultures co-exist, and here it shows
in a simple, moving ritual.
5
6
7
Aria
nn T
hom
pson
17discovertnt.com* Public Holiday
30
We Beat
Festival
(St James)
5 12
27
29 St Peter’s
Day
26
28
June
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Ediso
n Bo
odoo
singh
4 11 2518
3 10 2417
2 9 2316Labour Day
June 19, 1937 was a landmark day for the trade union movement,
when police tried to arrest the firebrand labour leader Uriah “Buzz”
Butler in Fyzabad in the face of huge grassroots defiance. That’s
why Labour Day in Trinidad & Tobago is on June 19 rather than
the conventional May 1.
19 Labour
Day &
Corpus
Christi *
St Peter’s Day
The sainted fisherman is celebrat-
ed in fishing villages across the
country with church services and
festivals. One of the biggest ones
is held in Carenage where there’s
a full day of festivities, some
more secular than religious.
18* Public Holiday
Calendar
Tobago Heri-
tage Festival
(date TBA)
6
7
13
14
20
21
27
1
5
8
12
15
19
22
26
28
30
Mango
Festival
Tobago
Great Fete
Weekend
Eid-ul-
Fitr *
(date TBA)
29
31
July
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Tobago Heritage
Festival
Tobago’s premier festival
celebrates island folk
traditions in different
villages, especially in food,
folklore, song, dance,
craft and storytelling.
Caf
é M
oka
19discovertnt.com* Public Holiday
14 21 28
1 Emancipation
Day *
3
8
10
15
17
22
24
Arima
Borough
Day
Castara
Fisher-
man’s Fete
2
7
9 16 23
29
31Independence
Day *
30
August
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Osun River Festival
Osun is the Orisha goddess of the river. She is
also associated with love, beauty and courage.
The Orisha community is not large (slavery was
not conducive to the maintaining of traditions)
but worship in the African religions is becoming
more visible.
Tobago Underwater
Carnival
A week-long dive festival: daily
north and south reef-diving
expeditions, seminars and presen-
tations on best diving practice.
Ediso
n Bo
odoo
singh
20* Public Holiday
Calendar
1
4
8
11
15
18
22
24 Republic Day *
2
3
9
10
16
17
23
25
29
30
September
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Republic Day
The day in 1976 when T&T became a republic within
the Commonwealth, replacing the British monarch as
head of state with a president of its own choice. Public
parades, a presidential address, and one of Trinidad &
Tobago’s most significant horse racing events.
trinidad + tobago film
festival
The Caribbean’s second
largest film festival show-
cases shorts and full-length
productions from the
region and the diaspora,
plus workshops and training
sessions, storytelling.
Maracas Open
Water ClassicM
arlo
n Ja
mes
(cou
rtesy
ttff)
21discovertnt.com* Public Holiday
Amer-
indian
Heritage
Day
5
6
12
13
19
20
26
4
7
11
14
18
21
25 Divali *
(date TBA)
27
29
31
28
30
October
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Ramleela
This nine-day Hindu festival precedes
Divali, and re-enacts scenes from the life
of Lord Rama, the main figure of the epic
Ramayan. Large-scale Ramleela produc-
tions take place in Couva and Felicity in
Central Trinidad.
Caf
é M
oka
22* Public Holiday
Calendar
Trinidad &
Tobago:
Pan is
Beautiful
XIII (starts
in October
and con-
tinues into
November
Hosay
(date TBA)
2
3 17 24
7
9 Pan,
Parang &
Pork
14
16
21
23
1
10
8 15 22
28
30
29
November
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
turd
aySu
nd
ay
Hosay
Hosay is of Islamic origin
(and controversial in some
sections of the Muslim
community). It com-
memorates the martyrdom
of Hassan and Hussein,
grandsons of the Prophet
Mohammed.
Nic
hola
s Lau
ghlin
23discovertnt.com* Public Holiday
5
7
12
14
19
21
26Boxing Day *
28
4
6
11
13
18
20
25Christmas Day *
27
29
31Old Year’s
Night
30
December
Mo
nd
ayT
ues
day
Wed
nes
day
Th
urs
day
Frid
aySa
tSu
n
In many cases, firm dates are only announced close to the event. For up to date information, visit
the Discover Trinidad & Tobago or Tourism Development Company websites:
(www.discovertnt.com, www.gotrinidadandtobago.com)
Paramin Parang Festival
The Venezuelan influenced music of
T&T Christmas is played everywhere
from as early as October. The village of
Paramin, high in the hills of the Northern
Range, has a long-established reputation
for producing some of the finest paren-
deros - the singers, cuatro players and
drummers who make the music.
Parang
music
every-
where
Ediso
n Bo
odoo
singh
24 Trinidad
Five Tips for Planning your International Meeting in Trinidad and Tobago
A D V E R T O R I A L
Arguably one of the most business friendly destinations in the Caribbean, Trinidad and Tobago is the perfect location for international meetings. The destination’s expanding portfolio of hotels and meeting facilities are amply complemented
by an attractive capital city with historic buildings, a modern waterfront and a diverse leisure product, including health spas, golfing, bird watching, spectacular reefs, glorious rainforests, majestic mangroves, friendly people and enough festivals and excitement to make any visit unforgettable.
Perfectly facilitating this buzzing destination is the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau, which provides international meeting planners with all the expertise and local knowledge required for the execution of flawless events.
A one-stop-shop for meeting planners, the Convention Bureau provides unbiased and professional advice and support, along with offering customised solutions that meet the specific needs of an event or group.
• Top 5 Destination Tips for Meeting Planners •
Be Informed Contact the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau to start familiarising yourself with Trinidad and Tobago as a meeting and event location. The Convention Bureau can provide comprehensive information about meeting space and conference facilities in Trinidad and Tobago, as well as flights, transportation and tour options.
Get an Insider’s View To get a feel for the available venues and experience the tour offerings as well as sites and attractions, it is advisable to plan a site visit. The Convention Bureau can coordinate and arrange site visits for meeting planners. We can also arrange tailor-made tours by working closely with the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association and assist in finding local speakers and other resources.
Get Connected While email is quick, interpersonal communication via telephone is often a more effective way to get the ball rolling. The dedicated people at the Convention
Bureau are ready to chat with you and are always responsive to enquires. We can also provide contacts, introductions and comprehensive destination information, in addition to assisting with marketing and advertising.
Think about Accommodation After you have determined the venue which best suits your meeting or event, the Convention Bureau can assist in sourcing a wide range of accommodation options, from internationally branded chains to intimate boutique hotels, and bed and breakfast properties. We can also facilitate the RFP process and act as a liaison between meeting planners and hotels.
Get Ready for a Great Time Pre and post event, Trinidad and Tobago has amazing entertainment and attractions, from thrilling eco-experiences to sumptuous exotic culinary fare and the Caribbean’s biggest Carnival. The Convention Bureau can help meeting planners and groups enjoy the destination’s best experiences.
To learn more about hosting your event in this exciting Caribbean destination, contact the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau at: [email protected] or visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings
Plan Trinidad & Tobago – your clients will love you for it.
Trinidad T &World Meetswhere the
obago
www.tdc.co.tt
• Two Islands, Two Unique Experiences• World Class Facilities • Spectacular sites and attractions• Idyllic Tobago
Contact Info: (868) 675-7034/7 E-mail: [email protected] Website: gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings
25www.discovertnt.com
Five Tips for Planning your International Meeting in Trinidad and Tobago
A D V E R T O R I A L
Arguably one of the most business friendly destinations in the Caribbean, Trinidad and Tobago is the perfect location for international meetings. The destination’s expanding portfolio of hotels and meeting facilities are amply complemented
by an attractive capital city with historic buildings, a modern waterfront and a diverse leisure product, including health spas, golfing, bird watching, spectacular reefs, glorious rainforests, majestic mangroves, friendly people and enough festivals and excitement to make any visit unforgettable.
Perfectly facilitating this buzzing destination is the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau, which provides international meeting planners with all the expertise and local knowledge required for the execution of flawless events.
A one-stop-shop for meeting planners, the Convention Bureau provides unbiased and professional advice and support, along with offering customised solutions that meet the specific needs of an event or group.
• Top 5 Destination Tips for Meeting Planners •
Be Informed Contact the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau to start familiarising yourself with Trinidad and Tobago as a meeting and event location. The Convention Bureau can provide comprehensive information about meeting space and conference facilities in Trinidad and Tobago, as well as flights, transportation and tour options.
Get an Insider’s View To get a feel for the available venues and experience the tour offerings as well as sites and attractions, it is advisable to plan a site visit. The Convention Bureau can coordinate and arrange site visits for meeting planners. We can also arrange tailor-made tours by working closely with the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming Tour Operators Association and assist in finding local speakers and other resources.
Get Connected While email is quick, interpersonal communication via telephone is often a more effective way to get the ball rolling. The dedicated people at the Convention
Bureau are ready to chat with you and are always responsive to enquires. We can also provide contacts, introductions and comprehensive destination information, in addition to assisting with marketing and advertising.
Think about Accommodation After you have determined the venue which best suits your meeting or event, the Convention Bureau can assist in sourcing a wide range of accommodation options, from internationally branded chains to intimate boutique hotels, and bed and breakfast properties. We can also facilitate the RFP process and act as a liaison between meeting planners and hotels.
Get Ready for a Great Time Pre and post event, Trinidad and Tobago has amazing entertainment and attractions, from thrilling eco-experiences to sumptuous exotic culinary fare and the Caribbean’s biggest Carnival. The Convention Bureau can help meeting planners and groups enjoy the destination’s best experiences.
To learn more about hosting your event in this exciting Caribbean destination, contact the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau at: [email protected] or visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings
Plan Trinidad & Tobago – your clients will love you for it.
Trinidad T &World Meetswhere the
obago
www.tdc.co.tt
• Two Islands, Two Unique Experiences• World Class Facilities • Spectacular sites and attractions• Idyllic Tobago
Contact Info: (868) 675-7034/7 E-mail: [email protected] Website: gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings
26 Trinidad
We are limers
It’s strange that the word “lime”, as it is used in Trinidad & Tobago, up the islands and through
the diaspora, is absent from most of the world’s leading dictionaries (New Oxford American
excepted). “Liming” is doing anything at all in company. Its closest English-language equivalent is
the American “hanging out”. You can lime with one person on a trip downtown to buy new shoes.
You can lime with a group of friends at a party (where you will meet new people with whom to
lime). You can lime cosily over coffee at a café.
The main thing to keep in mind is the spirit of the thing: an unquestioned acceptance that
things are more fun when done with some congenial others, with room for spontaneity. It is not,
as some have suggested, the art of doing nothing. Far from it. It is how to turn any and everything
you do into an opportunity for a good time.
Night limingAriapita Avenue runs through the middle of Woodbrook, a once genteel sort of residential area
west of Port of Spain. On the Avenue at least, all pretence of quiet family life has been quite lost.
The entire strip is lined with bars, restaurants, street food and very, very trendy crowds out for a
night of partying and liming. Once it’s not raining, chances are there’ll be as much going on on
the sidewalk as in the bar.
Aaro
n Ri
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ds
27www.discovertnt.com
Not five minutes away, the Western Main Road in
St James offers a less shnazz but even more populous
liming area. Here the bars are more functional than fancy:
you want a drink, they sell drinks. St James if our official-
unofficial city-that-never-sleeps. The music is loud, the
carousing is of the gritty variety, the street food is the best
in the country.
And. Everyone. Goes. There.
You’ll run into everyone from the person you bought fruit from that morning to ministers of state.
Out of Port of Spain, it’s harder to find dedicated liming zones. In San Fernando and Cha-
guanas, for instance, in south and central Trinidad respectively, there are clubs and restaurants
aplenty but not concentrated in one area. So too in St Augustine and Trincity in the east. Over the
past few years, the night clubs of those areas have been upping their game, achieving a tough feat:
they’re getting Port of Spain partiers to head out of town for their entertainment.
Think about: live entertainment. Almost anywhere you go, you’ll find good music
and lots of variety. But a live band, local, and one that plays originals and not only cov-
ers, is definitely a treat to look out for.
Important: If you’ve rented
a car, be sure to obey park-
ing guidelines or risk being
towed by the police.
Trin
iwav
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28 Trinidad
Top ten things to do for free
Carnival spirit If you’re here for Carnival, listen to
the steelbands rehearsing in the pan-
yards, watch the costumed bands on
Monday and Tuesday; catch tradition-
al Carnival characters appearing in
the week before Carnival. All for free.
Birds and butterfliesTrinidad has a staggering number
of birds and butterflies. Drive up to
Mount St Benedict in Tunapuna and
walk the grounds or the butterfly
trail.
Browsing Frederick Street runs through the heart of Port of Spain
and gives a fair idea of what you’ll find all over the island in
shopping areas and malls. Plenty of local craft and hand-
made goods.
Visit a Hindu temple Those in central Trinidad have become quite grand. The
one on Ethel Street in St James was the first in the coun-
try to be built with actual architectural plans. For some
fine colonial architecture, look out for Anglican and
Catholic cathedrals and churches.
Hit the beach Most beaches in Trinidad and Tobago are public.
If you’re in Tobago, you should be able to walk to
one. In Trinidad, you’ll need to work out transport.
29www.discovertnt.com
Alice Yard On Roberts Street in Woodbrook, this is a contemporary
arts/performance space and network, and there’s usu-
ally something interesting going on there.
www.aliceyard.blogspot.com or
www.facebook.com/aliceyard
Queen’s Park SavannahWalk, ride, or run around the Queen’s
Park Savannah in Port of Spain.
Nearby, the Botanical Gardens and
the row of eclectic, eccentric build-
ings called the Magnificent Seven.
Hot work maybe – have a coconut or
sno-cone for recovery. Or both.
Discover the artists Port of Spain has some good private, commercial
art galleries, often showing work by leading paint-
ers, sculptors and jewellers. The National Museum
and Art Gallery has some treasures too, but the
space itself is not in excellent condition.
Weavers of the Dust. One of artist LeRoy Clarke’s most famous paintings. More work from the Mas-ter Artist can be seen at DE LEGACY... HOUSE OF EL TUCUCHE. It’s in Wellsprings, Cascade, just outside of Port of Spain. Clarke himself often shows you around while discussing all things art.
30 Trinidad
ChaguaramasThe Chaguaramas peninsula, west of Port of Spain, has
a new waterside boardwalk. Find out what the “bamboo
cathedral” is, or walk to Edith Falls from the car park of the
golf course; check out the marinas and enjoy the breeze
off the sea and the boats at anchor.
Check the calendar for celebrations and festivals It’s a rare week when there’s
nothing happening, secular or
religious, day or night. Carnival,
Divali, Hosay, Emancipation Day,
various Borough Days, Indepen-
dence and Republic Days. You
can often catch live music at
various clubs and bars (check the
daily papers).
Will
iam
Bar
row
Yachts at anchor
31www.discovertnt.com
We are Carnival
Carnival is excessive, expressive, and full of glorious abandon. Like those in Brazil and
Venice, it’s premised on the idea of a grand romp before the austerity of the Christian
season of Lent. Once we’ve finished our Christmas feasting, our Carnival feting begins in ear-
nest. In 2014, Carnival Monday and Tuesday fall on March 3-4; that gives us just over two months
to obsess over the season’s new calypso and soca tunes and fit in as many fetes as possible
before the two-day street parade.
Mar
ia N
unes
Fetes are just huge parties by another name, but they provide the training you need to make
the most of the big days to come. You need to jump, wave and dance with thousands of
strangers in the comparative safety of the party zone before you can really lose your inhibitions
(and most of your clothes). From the mud, paint and cocoa of J’ouvert in the darkness of early
Monday morning, through the two days of street parades, to the frazzled, exhausted frenzy of
Las Lap on Tuesday night, you want to have as few inhibitions as possible.
While the glamorous tiny, sequined costumes rule the streets, there are still some “tradition-
al” characters and events – swaggering Dames Lorraines, oratorical Midnight Robbers, prancing
fire-eating Blue Devils, Pierrots, Jab-Jabs. They’re worth
looking out for. Below Kees Diffenthaler of Kes the Band.
Opposite page J’ouvert in full swing.
Trin
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32 Trinidad
33www.discovertnt.com
Chri
s And
erso
n
34 Trinidad
www.trinidadcarnivaldiary.com
Ryan
Kon
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35www.discovertnt.com
Thinking about it?
If you plan on playing mas, that is, getting a costume and being part of one of the parade
bands, you’ll find it’s simple. Most of the bigger and more popular masquerade bands now
have websites where you can view and buy costumes online. That goes for J’ouvert bands too.
Important note: While the main website photographs may be of the most va-va-voom, Brazilian-style
costumes, there are usually different versions on offer for each design. If you’re not ready for too much
self-exposure, look for the one-piece suits, the more demure two-piece ensembles and other options.
Carnival safety
If you’re going to take part in the festivities, recall all the things you know and practise as a
safety-conscious traveller and ramp them up a bit. It’s easy to get lost or lose something in a
hedonistic atmosphere involving large crowds. So stick with friends, pre-arrange meeting points
in case you become separated, don’t carry wads of money or wear easily detachable valuables
at parties or on the road. Take care of that expensive camera, and don’t forget about your sur-
roundings completely, or the people nearby. Helpful checklists appear in the daily papers on
how to have a safe Carnival without sacrificing the fun.
Trin
iwav
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36
Dimanche Gras
Carnival Sunday night’s big show tradi-
tionally sees the crowning of the Calypso
Monarch and the King and Queen of the Band
(but new formats are being tried out)
J’ouvert
The official start of Carnival. Covered in mud,
paint, oil or cocoa, the masses take to the
streets from as early as 4am on Carnival Mon-
day morning
Las Lap
Carnival officially ends at midnight on Tues-
day. Once the day’s formal parade and
competition are over, bands can roam
where they want, for the sheer joy of it,
until the clocks strike 12
Mas
Short for “masquerade”
Panorama
Steelbands of all sizes, from all over the coun-
try, compete here for the most coveted title
on the pannist’s calendar
Parade of the Bands
The procession of large and small costumed
bands on the streets on Carnival Monday and
Tuesday. They follow a set route (more or less).
Monday starts late and is basically a warm-up;
Tuesday starts early, and that’s when the full
costumes come out
Pretty mas
Bands with costumes of bikini-and-beads and
strategically placed feathers. The term distin-
guishes them from other types of mas (“sailor
mas”, traditional mas”, “mud mas”)
Soca Monarch
This competition has overshadowed the long-
established Calypso Monarch contest. The
faster rhythms of today’s dance music draw
fanatical audiences as the singers pull out all
the stops for this highlight of the season
Traditional mas
A cast of familiar costumed characters (stock
figures as in commedia dell’arte). Long before
the arrival of the pretty mas bands, the Mid-
night Robber, Dame Lorraine and Pierrot Gre-
nade provided the theatre of the streets
Wining
To “wine” is to dance, but deploying hips and
waist more than feet. It is a mild gyration at its
tamest, blatantly sexual at the other end of the
spectrum
Glossary of terms
Trinidad
37www.discovertnt.com
Ryan
Kon
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38 Trinidad
Vacation
Family
Quality Service
Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island
Ferry Service
T&
TINTER - ISLAN
TRANSPORTATION CO.L
T&
TINTER - ISLAND
TRANSPORTATION CO.LT
D
39www.discovertnt.com
We CelebratePanorama Finals (February)The climax of the steelband
year: the cream of the crop
battle it out in furious
competition for the title of
Panorama Champions.
Soca Monarch Finals (February) This annual double-header takes place on Carnival Friday (“Fantastic Friday”) and showcases
soca artists from around the region vying for two different titles: Power Soca Monarch and
Groovy Soca Monarch.
Cour
tesy
CAL
Inva
ders
Ste
el O
rche
stra
40 Trinidad
Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day (March – public holiday)A celebration of religious freedom. On this day in 1951, the colonial Shouters Prohibition Or-
dinance of 1917 was repealed: it had outlawed the activities of the Shouter or Spiritual Baptists.
Tobago Jazz Experience (April)Tobago’s biggest annual music event; a musical odyssey across the island, from Speyside to
Signal Hill, Scarborough to Castara, ending at the Pigeon Point Heritage Park. Though billed as
a jazz concert, it is a truly eclectic blend, embracing calypso, soca, chutney, latin and contem-
porary as well as jazz. Usually held during the last week of April. Past headliners include Sting,
Chaka Khan, Erykah Badu, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J. Blige, India.Arie, Diana Ross and
Dionne Warwick.
Nic
hola
s Lau
ghlin
Phagwa (March)The Hindu spring festival, also
known as Holi. Participants
douse one another in colour-
ful vegetable dyes known
as abir. Traditional folksongs
called chowtals are sung to the
pulsating rhythms of dholak
drums.
41www.discovertnt.com
Ganga Dhaara Festival (June)The main observances happen at the Marianne River, but the trek starts in the Blanchisseuse
forest in the pre-dawn darkness. Lit deyas in prayer boats made of coconut fibre are floated
along the mountain river. Devotees, mostly dressed in yellow, stand in the water or line the
banks or stony hillocks.
Indian Arrival Day (May – public holiday) Until the 1830s, agricultural estates
were worked by imported African
slaves. After emancipation, colonial
Britain solved the labour crisis by im-
porting over 140,000 labourers from
India between 1845 and 1917. This
holiday marks their first landing in
Trinidad. Nearly 170 years later, African
and Indian descendants each account
for about 35% of the population.
Aria
nne
Thom
pson
NGC Bocas Lit Fest: The Trinidad & Tobago Literary Festival (April)
This annual literary festival at the end of the month
brings together readers, writers and publishers for
a four-day celebration of books and writing, with
readings, performers, workshops and discussions.
Nic
hola
s Lau
ghlin
42 Trinidad
We Beat Festival (June)Centered around the Western Main Road in St James, featuring vintage kaiso (calypso), talent
shows and a steelband parade at the end. Most of these events take place at the St James Am-
phitheatre.
Corpus Christi (June – public holiday)The feast of Corpus Christi (Latin for “body of Christ”) is celebrated by Catholics in honour of the
sacramental Eucharist, with a procession in downtown Port of Spain.
Santa Rosa Festival (July)The Amerindian (First Peoples) community in Arima remembers its long (and not always happy)
relationship with the Roman Catholic church; the event is named after Santa Rosa de Lima,
the first Catholic saint in the “new world”. There’s a church procession, highlighting the Carib
Queen, with music and entertainment including parang competitions and traditional prepara-
tion of cassava bread.
Eid-ul-Fitr (July – public holiday)This Islamic holiday signals the end of
the holy month of Ramadan. Muslim fami-
lies gather for prayer in mosques and large,
open air spaces, followed by the greeting
and exchange of gifts and good wishes
between worshippers. The date may vary
slightly according to circumstances. About
5% of the national population is Muslim.
Ediso
n Bo
odoo
singh
43www.discovertnt.com
Hosay (November)Hosay is of Islamic origin, though its religiosity is heavily debated within the Muslim community.
It commemorates the martyrdom of Hassan and Hussein, grandsons of the Prophet Moham-
med, and is principally observed in St James, though processions can also be seen in Cedros
and Curepe. Tadjahs, ornamented replicas of Hussein’s tomb, are carried through the streets to
the rhythmic accompaniment of tassa drumming.
Divali (October – public holiday)The simplest things can create the most ar-
resting sights. Small clay bowls known as
deyas are filled with oil, lit by cotton wicks,
and displayed in their thousands in homes,
mandirs and public spaces for the Hindu
“festival of lights”. The tiny flames symbol-
ise the victory of righteous forces over evil.
Hindus, representing over 18% of the popu-
lation, perform religious ceremonies in wor-
ship of Lakshmi, the goddess of light and
prosperity.
Aria
nn T
hom
pson
44 Trinidad
Will
iam
Bar
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45www.discovertnt.com
We’d like to show you ...Around Port of SpainUptown
The Queen’s Park Savannah is the city’s green heart, the haunt of everyone from cricketers
and footballers to joggers and kite-flyers. On the northern side are the Emperor Valley Zoo,
the Botanical Gardens, and the President’s House, now being renovated. On the western
side are “the Magnificent Seven”, a quirky mix of historic buildings, several in dire need of
restoration. From south to north they are, Queen’s Royal College; Hayes Court (home
to the Anglican bishop); Milles Fleurs; Roomor (privately owned); the Roman Catholic
archbishop’s house; Whitehall (formerly the Prime Minister’s office); and Killarney or
Stollmeyer’s Castle.
The National Academy of Performing Arts, with its multiple stages and performance
spaces lies just to the south of the Savannah. The much older (but beautifully renovated)
Queen’s Hall is at the Savannah’s northeast corner.
Mar
tin F
arin
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Stollmeyer’s Castle
46 Trinidad
DowntownThe Brian Lara Promenade runs
east-west down the middle of
Independence Square, the focal
point of downtown Port of Spain.
At the western end, it borders the
waterfront and ferry terminal; at the
eastern end is the (Roman Catho-
lic) Cathedral of the Immaculate
Conception, where our many eth-
nicities are depicted in the stained
glass.
A few blocks to the north is
Woodford Square, laid out by a Brit-
ish colonial governor nearly 200 years ago. Traditionally used for political rallies, it is bordered by
the Red House (the customary seat of parliament, now being renovated), the Hall of Justice (law
courts), the National Library and the (Anglican) Holy Trinity Cathedral.
Beyond the capitalAsa Wright Nature Centre & LodgeNestled in the hills at the head of the Arima valley, this 193-acre eco-centre and former estate house
is a world-renowned study centre and guesthouse where visitors can see a huge variety of bird life.
Originally a cocoa and coffee plantation, it was bought by an Englishman, Dr Newcombe Wright,
and his Icelandic wife Asa in 1947, and acquired two years later by the New York Zoological Society
as a research station. After her husband’s death, Mrs Wright sold the land on condition that it re-
mained a conservation area; a non-profit trust was set up in 1967.
The Centre provides guided tours, nature trails, bird watching, a plunge pool, restaurant, and gift
shop. The veranda has fantastic views down the Armia Val-
ley, and is a great place for bird photography. The restau-
rant serves good local cuisine (reservations recommend-
ed). Visit www.asawright.org for more information.
Top Fountain in Woodford Square.Opposite page, clockwise from top
Red-rumped agouti; green honeycreeper; blue-backed manakin; spectacled caiman,
southern tamandua, tufted cocquette.
Ryan
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www.discovertnt.com
Fara
az A
bdul
Chaguaramas National Heritage ParkChaguaramas is a playground for nature-lovers and eco-adventurers: hiking trails, historic
landmarks, a military museum, golf course, restaurants, marinas, waterfalls, beaches (in-
cluding the popular Macqueripe), land sports (cycling, hashing, mountain biking), water
sports (kayaking, sailing, yachting, power boating, dragon-boat racing), and boats to the
offshore islands. A recently constructed boardwalk starts at Williams Bay, and there are bike
trails, gazebos for cooking, liming spots, rest areas, roller-blading and fishing. Zip lining is a
new experience for Trinidad – the lines overlook the peninsula, both coast and forest – and
it’s catching on fast.
Offshore, the 30m (98ft) deep limestone Gasparee Caves on Gaspar Grande island are
breathtakingly beautiful. Tours are arranged with registered tour guides, or the Chaguara-
mas Development Authority.
Chaguaramas was a US military base during
World War II, a signal station in the hills and several
buildings survive from that time.
Will
iam
Bar
row
This page This abandoned house on the island of Chacachacare was the living quarters for the doctor caring for patients at the leprosarium on the island. Rumoured to be haunted.
48 Trinidad
49www.discovertnt.com
Banwari TraceThe oldest pre-Columbian site in the West In-
dies, on the southern shore of the Oropouche
Lagoon south of San Fernando, dating to
about 5,000 BC. Excavations have unearthed
stone tools and the earliest human skeleton so
far recovered anywhere in the Caribbean. The
site probably represents one of the first settle-
ments established by the Caribbean’s First
People as they emigrated northwards from
South America into the Caribbean islands.
ChaguanasHome of traditional Indian pottery, and the
site of Nobel laureate VS Naipaul’s childhood
home, Lion House.
Devil’s Woodyard Mud VolcanoNear Princes Town, and not as terrifying as
its name suggests (European settlers weren’t
sure how to explain the bubbling and rum-
bling), this is one of many small mud vol-
canoes in the southland. Mud volcanoes
emit hot mud through a vent or fissure,
propelled by methane or other gases below
the surface. Though usually quiet, the Devil’s
Woodyard can occasionally produce large
muddy eruptions.
Will
iam
Bar
row
Fort GeorgeDriving west out of Port of Spain, you’ll
see this colonial-era signal station on
the crest of a ridge 335m (1,100ft) above
the city (access from St James). Can-
nons, a small museum, and magnificent
panoramic views of the west coast.
50 Trinidad
Divali Nagar Centre The Divali Nagar site just north of Chaguanas
is the venue for many Hindu activities and
performances – lectures, Indian trade fairs,
cultural shows, Divali celebrations. A 12m
(39ft) statue of Swami Vivekananda keeps a
watchful eye over the area.
Galera Point, TocoA magnificent headland marks the northeast-
ern tip of Trinidad, where the navy-blue Atlan-
tic meets the electric-blue Caribbean Sea.
Hanuman Temple & Dattatreya Yoga Centre The distinctive 26m (85ft) statue of the Hindu
god Hanuman near Carapichaima is the tall-
est of its kind outside India, and towers over
the Yoga Centre and mandir.
La Vega Garden CentreThis estate in Gran Couva, home to a range of
plants and trees, is popular for picnics, kayak-
ing, and outdoor activities.
Lopinot In the Northern Range foothills, Lopinot
was once a cocoa estate. Now there is
a small museum in the former estate
house, near the old slave quarters and
prison. The estate was developed by
the Compte de Lopinot, who fled Haiti
for Trinidad after the 1791 Haitian revo-
lution (and is said to appear on stormy
nights astride a white horse – Lopinot
was featured on the popular US televi-
sion show Ghost Hunters International).
The area is now popular for sports, river
bathing, cave exploration, and parang
music around Christmas time.
Will
iam
Bar
row
51www.discovertnt.com
Mount St Benedict Church & Monastery Perched 240m (800ft) up in the Northern Range
above St Augustine and Tunapuna, the oldest
Benedictine monastery in the Caribbean offers
panoramic views of the Caroni plains and be-
yond. Built in 1912, its 600 acres support nature
trails, an art gallery and studio, a gift shop, and
a guesthouse and café, as well as the central
church. The monks produce excellent yoghurt
and honey.
National Science CentreOn the southern side of the highway to Arima,
hands-on science exhibitions for both adults
and children.
Northern RangeThis range is a continuation of one branch of
the great South American cordilleras, rising
to over 914m (3,000ft) into elfin woodland
at El Tucuche and Cerro del Aripo. Well worth
exploring, but you’ll need a good guide. The
Heights of Guanapo, the Guanapo Gorge, and
the Sombasson and La Laja waterfalls are big
attractions. Large colonies of bats and oil birds
inhabit the Aripo Caves.
Pitch Lake A slowly-churning lake of natural bitumen, covering about half a square kilometre, at La Brea.
Natural springs, said to have healing properties, appear at its centre during the rainy season.
Most of the surface is hard enough to walk on. A small museum houses some (sometimes
bizarre) artefacts that have been recovered from the pitch.
Point LisasTrinidad’s first major industrial complex
sprawls along the west coast near Couva,
housing an international port and a range
of plants fuelled by the country’s own
natural gas; it produces steel and petro-
chemicals (methanol, ammonia, urea) and
a range of downstream products. Guided
tours available.
Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl TrustA magnificent 25-hectare (62-acre) sanc-
tuary and breeding centre for endangered
waterfowl, with a learning centre and
eco-lodge. It is actually hidden away on
the grounds of the oil refinery at Pointe-à-
Pierre, so you need to make reservations.
Visit www.papwildfowltrust.org.
San Fernando Hill In the middle of Trinidad’s second city, San
Fernando, this hill is a national park, despite
being badly scarred by quarrying. It has
magnificent views of the city, the Gulf of
Paria, the Caroni Plains and Northern Range.
Picnic huts and a children’s play area.
52 Trinidad
SwamplandsThe Caroni Bird Sanctuary is an extensive
area of lagoon, marshland and swamp on the
northwest coast. The highlight: flocks of rare
scarlet ibis flying home to roost each evening
at dusk – an unforgettable sight. Boat tours
last a couple of hours from late afternoon to
dusk (though T&T Sightseeing Tours operates
tours all day). On the opposite side, the east
coast, the Nariva Swamp & Bush-Bush Wildlife
Sanctuary is the largest swamp in either island.
You’ll need a guide and permit to explore it by
kayak for a glimpse of manatees in their natu-
ral habitat, anacondas, caimans, and bird life.
Turtle watchingTrinidad’s northeast coast (like
southwest Tobago’s) is among the
world’s most important turtle nest-
ing grounds. During nesting months
(March-August), from mid-evening
through early morning, female tur-
tles – endangered leatherbacks as
well as hawksbill, green and occa-
sional loggerheads and olive ridleys – heave
themselves out of the ocean and crawl up
the beach. Laboriously, they dig nests in the
sand and deposit their eggs, carefully camou-
flaging the spot. Two months later, the eggs
hatch, and the baby turtles make a dash for
the sea; few survive the predators and make
it to maturity. Grande Rivière and Matura are
both popular and protected beaches.
Temple in the Sea, WaterlooA Hindu temple built literally in the sea
a short way offshore, accessible by a
causeway. Indian indentured labourer
Siewdass Sadhu toiled for decades to
build it after being forbidden to build
on colonial land.
Note: permits are required, and can be arranged by tour operators and hotels. Go with a guide, and give nesting tur-tles lots of space, especially during the digging and covering process. Do not touch or in any way disturb them – lights and activity can disorient turtles and hatchlings. Don’t pick up hatchlings or impede their progress to the sea, and don’t drive on nesting beaches, as vehicles can crush whole clutches of eggs hidden in the sand.
Will
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Bar
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53www.discovertnt.com
We are hikersOf all the out-doorsy things you can do in Trinidad & Tobago, hiking is one of the best.
Much like the country, hikes can accommodate almost everyone, from the gentle soul
who’s looking for equally gentle terrain to the most intrepid, bring-it-on types.
Comfortable rambles for beginnersEdith Falls (Chaguaramas, northwestern peninsula)
The trail is well marked by the Chaguaramas Development Authority. Ideal for novice hikers, it
reveals a broad range of local flora and fauna, culminating in a breath-taking view of the 250-
foot (76-metre) falls. Estimated completion time: 30 minutes at a leisurely pace.
Rio Seco (Salybia, northeast coast)
Complete with a fine natural swimming pool, these falls are part of Matura National Park. The
trail paths are largely shaded by mora rainforest canopy. Estimated completion time: 45-60 min-
utes, trekking casually.
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iam
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54 Trinidad
Maracas Waterfalls (Maracas/St Joseph Valley, north Trinidad)
The trail leads through rich forest scene to Trinidad’s tallest waterfall, tower-
ing 299 feet (91 metres) high. Estimated completion time: 30-45 minutes,
meandering peaceably.
For the intermediate hikerTurure Water Steps (Cumaca, northeast Trinidad)
Natural limestone provides safe paths for exploration. The hike ends in bath-
ing pools beside the Water Steps themselves: the unique rock face delights
budding geologists. Estimated completion time: an hour, at a steady pace.
For seasoned hikers only!Saut d’Eau (Paramin, northwest Trinidad)
Veterans love the challenge of this gruelling trek: a high-altitude start leads
steeply down to an expanse of secluded beachfront. The uphill return is truly
not for the faint of heart. Estimated completion time: three blood-pumping
hours, there and back again.
Will
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Mar
iann
e H
osei
nWe’re at the beach
Maracas BayThe top choice for those in Port of
Spain. A beautiful semi-enclosed
bay, 40 minutes from town along
the scenic North Coast Road. The
water can generate strong currents.
Parking, basic facilities, hotel and
gas station nearby. Vendors sell local
food, including the signature dish,
bake and shark. However, with the
shark population on the decline, you
might consider trying some of the
other offerings like catfish, kingfish,
cheese or shrimp. Have a sandwich,
save a shark!
Other choicesMacqueripe: small and secluded, on the north coast
of the Chaguaramas peninsula, 20 minutes from town;
some of the best swimming and snorkelling in Trinidad.
Parking and changing room facilities, small entrance fee
Tyrico: right next door to Maracas (at the eastern end),
and usually quieter
Las Cuevas: a short drive beyond Maracas, with good
bathing, calmer water, and small caves at the far end.
Snack bar, car park, tables, benches, lifeguards, chang-
ing rooms with showers and toilets
Blanchisseuse: a popular weekend getaway at the
end of the north coast road, about an hour from Port
of Spain. Hiking trails, guesthouses and holiday homes,
kayaking on the Marianne River that flows into the bay
From Port of Spain
56 Trinidad
Other choicesManzanilla: the northern extension of Mayaro: the road
wanders through coconut plantation (the Cocal) along
the shore. A few guesthouses and holiday homes for
rent nearby; some facilities at the northern end, and life-
guards in some areas
Balandra: sheltered, good for swimming, even body-
surfing at the rougher end of the bay
Matura: rough water, but between March and August this
is a popular and important leatherback turtle nesting site
Paria: turtles also come ashore in season at this pristine
bay, accessible only by hiking or by boat; waterfalls and
rocky pools nearby.
Saline (“Sally”) Bay: not to be confused with Salybia
Bay further north: good for swimming, with clear water
and facilities on site
Salybia: a popular bay for surfing (November-April); good
swimming between June and September. Fringing reef off
the eastern end, unusual for Trinidad; beach facilities
The east coastMayaro The longest beach in the
island stretches for miles
along the Atlantic coast,
great for walks; noted for its
“chip chip” (small, suppos-
edly aphrodisiac molluscs
buried in the sand), and
fishermen bringing in their
catch, called “pulling seine”,
in the evening. Popular for
long weekends (it’s 90-
120 minutes from Port of
Spain) and public holidays;
vacation homes and guest-
houses. The currents and
undertow can be surpris-
ingly strong, so take serious
care in the water.
Nic
hola
s Bha
jan
Above Easter holidayers camping on the beach
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The northeast coast
Vessigny BeachQuiet during the week (usually), and a week-
end venue for beach parties and excursions.
Changing rooms, picnic tables.
Other choices
Grande Rivière Small, friendly north-coast fishing village, two
hours or more from Port of Spain, perfect for
a weekend getaway. Its placid main beach is a
major leatherback turtle nesting ground. Good
bird watching, river bathing, hiking and kayak-
ing; hotels, guesthouses and cottages for rent.
Other choicesSans Souci: between Toco and Grande
Rivière, a slightly sloping bay with choppy
waves, a favourite with surfers
Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am-5pm or 10am-6pm, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas. Sunscreen and insect repellent are essential – tropical sun can quickly give a bad burn, even through cloud, and mosquito-born illnesses like dengue fever are still health threats.
Granville Beach: a lengthy stretch of sand,
shallow water at low tide. Popular at weekends
and for post-Carnival cool-down parties. The
road to the beach is an adventure in itself – but
have faith, keep following the signs
Columbus & Cedros Bays: on the south-
western peninsula, a longish drive from Port
of Spain, but both are irresistible in good
weather. Cedros has the widest beach on the
island at low tide. Good views of the south-
west coast and, on clear days, neighbouring
Venezuela. No facilities but, this being Trini-
dad, there are food and drink establishments
nearby
Quinam: the most popular south coast
beach, about a mile long. Calm water good
for swimming, and the sand is fine and
brown, though it disappears at high tide. A
favourite for family weekend outings; trails
into the woods
The south & southwest
Aish
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58 Trinidad
We are contenders
Athletics The big local events are the annual Hamp-
ton Games at the Hasely Crawford Stadium
in Port of Spain and the Southern Games
at Guaracara Park, Pointe-à-Pierre. There
are 45 athletics clubs across the country;
the presiding body is the National Amateur
Athletics Association.
BasketballOver the years we have supplied several play-
ers to professional NBA teams. It’s popular with
youngsters at high school level and with ama-
teurs of all ages, as constantly crowded public
courts can attest. The Jean Pierre Complex (Port
of Spain) and the Sport & Physical Education
Centre (St Augustine) are the main venues, with
others in Maloney, Point Fortin and Pleasantville.
Cycling We’ve been avid cycling fans for a long
time, and the Easter International Grand
Prix is one of the most eagerly anticipated
events on the sport calendar. Other ma-
jor events are the Tobago Cycling Clas-
sic, the Rainbow Cup Triathlon, West
Indies vs. the World, and the National Champi-
onships. The Queen’s Park Savannah and the
Arima Velodrome are prime venues.
Dragon boat racingThis 2,000-year-old sport is catching
on in both islands, with several clubs
following rigorous regimes to com-
pete internationally. Competitions
are held at local beaches in both
Trinidad & Tobago, where thousands
of athletes and supporters enjoy the
weather and the competition.
Trinidad & Tobago Dragon Boat
Federation: www.ttdbf.webs.com
Ediso
n Bo
odoo
singh
Apart from games which require a temperate climate, we dabble in just about anything
involving a ball, net or finish line. Here are some of our favourites.
59www.discovertnt.com
CricketEnormously popular here and throughout the West Indies, with an intense rivalry between islands. The relatively recent T20 format and the Caribbean Pre-mier League have pumped new life and excitement into the sport. The Queen’s Park Oval in Port of Spain is a beautiful venue for international Tests and One-Day Internationals, and has been the home of the Queen’s Park Cricket Club since 1891.
www.ttcb.co.tt
WIC
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60 Trinidad
Gyms & health clubsGyms are everywhere, not least at larger
hotels and malls; many offer weekly, monthly
and daily passes which allow visitors access
to group exercise classes, aerobics, spin, etc.
Yoga and pilates are popular ways of pursuing
health and wellness.
Hiking & hashing Hiking is popular, especially guided weekend
hikes to some of the island’s most dramatic
caves and waterfalls. The Port of Spain Hash
House Harriers host a 100-strong bi-weekly
event, with healthy attention to the social side
of things.
Hockey The hockey year is split in two: an indoor
season (September-January) and an outdoor
season (March-August), on Tacarigua’s Astro-
turf in Trinidad and at the Dwight Yorke Sta-
dium in Tobago.
Horse racingEvery weekend hundreds gather at the Santa
Rosa Park near Arima to gamble, frolic and
generally have a great time – a pretty good
reflection of our culture on the whole. Thor-
oughbreds pound the dirt most Saturdays
and public holidays, totalling about 40 race
days a year. Prestige events include New Year
races, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes, Midsum-
mer Classic, President’s Cup and the Santa
Rosa Classic.
Trinidad & Tobago Racing Authority:
www.ttra.net
Horse ridingIn Trinidad, dressage and show jumping in-
struction can be found at stables in Santa
Cruz and St Ann’s. For trail riding, contact
Hidden Valley (Chaguaramas) or Bonanza
Stud Farm (Arima).
KayakingRiver kayaking is best in the wet season when
rivers are full. The Yara and Marianne Rivers
on the north coast are popular; so is the Nari-
va Swamp where the Godineau River takes
you through saltwater mangrove swamps
and freshwater marshland. The Kayak Centre
in Chaguaramas offers the sheltered waters
of Williams Bay and provides equipment.
GolfTrinidad has three 18-hole courses, at
St Andrew’s Golf Club in Moka, Millen-
nium Lakes in Trincity, and the Pointe-à-
Pierre Golf Club at the Petrotrin refinery
near San Fernando. There are nine-hole
courses at Brechin Castle, Usine St Mad-
eleine and Chaguaramas.
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Football “Soccer” is a universal language that speaks to us. Everywhere you turn you can see a ball zealot scuffling across any blade of grass, concrete, or gravel he can find. In 2006, Trinidad & Tobago became the smallest country ever to reach the finals of the World Cup. It is likely the most popular sport in the country, from the school leagues to our national team, the Soca Warriors, to the local players who represent us in famous clubs around the world. Soca Warriors: www.socawarriors.net
www.ttffonline.com
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Foot
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62 Trinidad
Motor sports Rally Trinidad and Rally Tobago are the big events. Drag
racing is popular, though lacking a permanent base.
Locations in south and central Trinidad include the pop-
ular Zig Zag and Indian Trail tracks in Couva. American
autocross defensive driving competitions and karting
events are held in the car park of the Santa Rosa race
track.
NetballAt the international level, netball has been Trinidad & To-
bago’s most successful team sport. We won the World
Netball Championship in 1979 and our women have ex-
celled ever since. Trinidad & Tobago Netball Association:
Mountain bikingChaguaramas is ideal for beginners, but
the Santa Cruz valley and Matura-Matelot
are popular stretches.
Power boatsIn late August, powerboats vie for
supremacy on an 84-mile route
from Trinidad to Tobago in the Carib
Great Race.
RugbyNot the most popular sport, but we’ve
done very well internationally. Our
teams have done us proud and are
showing more and more promise as
players get the chance to join top re-
gional clubs. Trinidad & Tobago Rugby
Football Union: www.ttrfu.com
SailingTrinidad has one of the largest rac-
ing fleets in the Caribbean, and
Chaguaramas is a major sailing hub.
The racing season begins around
November-December and contin-
ues till May-June. The Sailing As-
sociation hosts over a dozen races,
including general handicap races
where any boat can take part. The
Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Associa-
tion: www.ttsailing.org
Lyde
n Th
omas
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Mixed martial arts (MMA) A few MMA gyms have opened in Port of Spain, and
their events have been flooded with fans. Trinidadian
Dwayne Hinds has dominated the sport regionally
and is set to take the world by storm.
Lyde
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64 Trinidad
Swimming Competitive swimming always had its fans, but the glory
of local hero George Bovell III (four-time Olympian) has
increased its popularity. Swimming Association of Trini-
dad & Tobago: www.swimtt.com
TennisThere are public courts at King George V Park in St
Clair, and courts can be rented by the hour at the
Trinidad Country Club and some hotels. Courts
at Tranquillity and Westmoorings require yearly
membership. Tennis Association of Trinidad & Tobago:
www.tennistt.info
The Trinidad & Tobago Olympic Committee website, www.ttoc.org, documents all sports in
which Trinidad & Tobago participates.
Sport fishingOnshore fishing is popular in
Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera
Point and the mouth of the Nariva
River, while popular boat-fishing
spots include the Chaguaramas
islands, where fishermen troll for
carite, kingfish and cavalli, and bank
for redfish, salmon and croakers (or
grunt). The key offshore seasons are
October-April for marlin, sailfish,
wahoo, tuna and dorado, and May-
September for barracuda, kingfish,
bonito, and snapper.
SurfingTrinidad’s north coast beaches pro-
vide satisfactory swells from Novem-
ber to March, though the wet sea-
son (and the occasional hurricane
passing further north) can generate
strong waves as well. But even in
peak season, surfing isn’t possible
every day. Sans Souci, Las Cuevas,
L’Anse Mitan, Grande Rivière, Rough-
side and Salybia are favourite surfing
spots. In March, the Surfing Associa-
tion stages the CSN Sans Souci, the
first event in the cross-Caribbean
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Heart & Soul: Yoga
There are dozens of yoga studios across the country – Akasha Studio, Bliss Yoga and
The Sangha among them – offering classes in various traditions such as Kundalini,
Ashtanga and Hatha. Most studios are open-air, though some are quiet air-conditioned
rooms. Classes are generally very affordable, and some are even donation-based. There are
classes for kids and teenagers too.
In Tobago, Elspeth Duncan teaches group classes at the Kariwak Hotel. Her company,
Thou Art Yoga, offers one-on-one Kundalini yoga weekend retreats known as WOW – Won-
derful One Weekend. She also does workshops and Kundalini yoga and creativity retreats for
small groups.
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66 Trinidad
We are artists of all kinds
Despite our famous “fete culture”, we don’t actually spend all our time jumping and
prancing. There’s a rich and varied arts scene, for example, with enough theatre groups,
fashion designers, writers, musicians, filmmakers, dance companies and visual artists to keep
you busy and engaged every night of the week.
DanceCaribbean people are natural dancers, and a
dance performance might mean folk, ballet,
jazz, modern, Indian, African, Latin, Chinese …
Fashion & jewelleryThere’s a confident and fast-developing fash-
ion industry with some highly gifted design-
ers; lovely handcrafted jewellery is produced
by, among others, Barbara Jardine, Rachel
Ross, Jasmine Thomas Girvan.
Film & cinemaThe trinidad+tobago film festival in late
September/early October screens local
and diaspora features and shorts. The Eu-
ropean Film Festival (October) screens new
and classic European movies. Multiplexes
(MovieTowne in Port of Spain, Chaguanas
and Tobago; Caribbean Cinemas 8 in Trincity)
have all but replaced single-screen cinemas.
Literature The big names include VS Naipaul, Earl
Lovelace, Michael Anthony, and the late Sam
Selvon among the veterans. Look for titles
by Lawrence Scott, Elizabeth Nunez, Shani
Mootoo, Robert Antoni, Elizabeth Walcott-
Hardy. Monique Roffey won the 2013 Bocas
Prize. For beautiful memoir-esque writing, get
your hands on Wayne Brown’s work. Vahni
Capildeo’s poetry manages to be timeless
and other-worldly at the same time. Paper
Based bookshop in St Ann’s is one of the best
places to find local and West Indian reading.
67www.discovertnt.com
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68 Trinidad
Music The music that was invented and developed in Trinidad & Tobago – calypso, soca, steelpan – is
best heard at Carnival time, though there are shows of one sort or another most months of
the year. The music has been evolving from local roots into various kinds of world music: look
out for Mungal Patasar and Pantar, Ella Andall, David Rudder, Orange Sky, 12theband, jointpop,
3canal, H20 Phlo and recordings by the late André Tanker.
Theatre Localised farce and musicals dominate the scene but there are occasional productions of classic
Caribbean plays, experimental theatre, and intimate solo shows and dramas.
Visual arts Distinguished work is displayed at the National Museum and city art galleries, and a significant
art market has developed. Key names include sculptors Ralph and the late Vera Baney, Edward
Bowen, LeRoy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy
Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Irénée Shaw, Peter Sheppard and Sundiata. Work by earlier generations
is highly valued (MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Jean-Michel Cazabon,
Carlisle Chang, Boscoe Holder, Noel Vaucrosson).
Daily papers carry information on current performances and
exhibitionsM
ariss
a Ro
drig
uez
Opposite page Pantar, Gary Hector from the band jointpop
This page H2O Phlo
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www.triniscene.com
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70 Trinidad
We are shoppers
No, a ceramic coconut made in China is
probably not how you want to remember
your trip. Fair enough. But there are excep-
tionally talented local craftsmen in Trini-
dad working in leather, clay, fabric, cop-
per and other raw materials like seeds, shells
and gourds. And you can find just about anything
mainstream, from clothes, houseware and aroma-
therapy candles to fancy local foods, fashion and
jewellery.
Considering the size of Trinidad (it’s less
of a problem in Tobago), there’s an almost
alarming number of shopping malls. In
downtown Port of Spain, Frederick Street
is a hectic shopping stretch which keeps
a finger on the pulse of our culture
even as older buildings and shops
are replaced by bigger and trendier
ones.
Downtown Non-mall shopping is focused on a few key streets in each urban
centre: Frederick and Charlotte Streets (Port of Spain); High Street (San Fernan-
do); Main Street (Chaguanas); Milford Road Esplanade and the Market at Car-
rington Street in Scarborough, Tobago.
OnlineThough relatively new, online shopping is gaining traction. So far, food, shoes, clothing, lingerie
and accessories are the main items that can be bought from local sites.
Mar
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Artisan chocolates Some of the world’s best cocoa comes from Trinidad, but it usually goes straight out of the
country for others to do wonderful things with. Now, chocolatiers are offering exquisite hand-
made truffles and other rich delights to local buyers.
Shopping mallsThere are five major shopping malls in Trinidad: The Falls at West Mall (Westmoorings)
and Long Circular Mall (St James) in the western suburbs of Port of Spain; Trincity Mall
near Piarco airport; Grand Bazaar (Valsayn); and Gulf City (San Fernando). They house
branches of popular downtown stores, but also high-end stores you won’t find anywhere
else. There are several smaller shopping plazas and mini-malls as well (e.g. Valsayn and
Ellerslie Plazas, and Excellent City Centre in the heart of Port of Spain).
Unexpected gifts
Handmade and decorated chocolates by Cocobel www.cocobel.com
Cour
tesy
Coc
obel
India? Here?Travelling trade fairs from India have become a regular event. Don’t
be surprised to find some great buys in Indian apparel, textiles,
jewellery, ornaments, even furniture. There’s something for every
budget, and the savings start with not having to buy an actual ticket
to India.
Find Art On both islands you’ll find galleries selling the work of some of the
country’s top artists and photographers, and there are often several
exhibitions in progress. Expect a broad range in terms of quality and
price, but the best work is world-class.
Wild Ride at the Savannah; sculpture,bronze and nautilus shell by Jasmine Thomas Girvan
72 Trinidad
73www.discovertnt.com
Rachel Ross Jewellery on facebook
www.janicederrick.com
www.jasminethomasgirvan.com
74 Trinidad
Be JewelledJewellery for any budget, preference or
occasion. From the slightly expected shell-
and-seed type of handicraft, to haute cou-
ture gold- and silversmith designs. And you
can’t discover Trinidad & Tobago without
running into insanely low-priced fashion
jewellery. Local chain Wonderful World is
an extravaganza of affordable and trendy
accessories. Another well-kept secret:
Gemstones in Maraval and West Mall.
Surprise! Not Just Soca!Apart from pan, calypso and soca, Trini-
dad & Tobago is a music-lover’s dream.
Jazz, Indian, gospel, parang (a Spanish-fla-
voured music popular around Christmas),
fusion, chutney. We have a long, long-
standing love affair with rock (from mild-
alternative to semi-hardcore). And we have
some excellent choirs with classical and
contemporary repertoires. Most success-
ful performers have produced their own
albums. Have a listen to some other very
Trinidadian kinds of music from names like
Mungal Patasar and Pantar, 3 Canal, Theron
Shaw, jointpop, Ataklan, the Marionettes
Chorale and the Lydian Singers.
18 carat gold long leaf-cell chain by Janice Derrick
75www.discovertnt.com
We are food lovers
Pretty much everything we do revolves around food. Out for drinks? Yes but we’ll stop
for doubles/roti/gyros after. It’s Christmas! Midnight mass, love to your fellow man, wrap
presents. The reward: pastelles, ham, ponche de crème, black cake. Beach! Where’s the shark
and bake? Cricket! Who’s bringing the pelau?
Trinidad & Tobago can be complicated. But our united, delighted appreciation of food
is our society at its simplest and most artless. Where there be food, there we go.
Restaurants are plentiful, from the internationally noted to the dives known
only to those living nearby. Fine dining restaurants with celebrity chefs are
often located in converted traditional city houses, drawing ambience from
memories of old Port of Spain. If you like Chinese food, you’ve come to the
right place, oddly enough. The number of Chinese restaurants, mostly Can-
tonese, is in insane disproportion to the actual Chinese population. Not that
we’re complaining. And there are some divine Indian, Thai, Italian, and Creole
restaurants too.
But Trinidad is, above all, the land of
street food. There are areas famous for
Opposite page Clockwise from top: as-sorted hot peppers; swizzle sticks; all spice; pumpkin; aluminium graters.
Aria
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76 Trinidad
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www.trinichow.com
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78 Trinidad
this, like the Western Main Road in St James, or the southeast
corner of the Queen’s Park Savannah.
In Tobago, Store Bay stands in
the winner’s circle for having
so much good food in one
place.
Here’s the challenge: eat
your way across the sheds,
tents, carts, mobile units,
stalls and basketed bicycles
of this country and then go
out into the world and try to match
the experience.
Emily Narayans
ingh
79www.discovertnt.com
Two great sites for descriptions,
definitions and desires:
www.Trinichow.com,
www.CaribbeanPot.com.
P.S. About green seasoning ... Wonder
what that flavour is that seems to make its
way into all local dishes? Referred to sim-
ply as “green seasoning”, it’s a minced mix
of chives, thyme, onions, garlic and celery.
Many home and professional cooks keep
their special variations fiercely guarded.
80 Trinidad
Mar
sha
Edw
ards
Sno-coneShaved ice drenched in a variety of
syrups and, for a little extra decadence,
condensed milk
81www.discovertnt.com
Street foodBarbecue: in our version,
the sauce is thinner and
more heavily seasoned than,
say, its sweet and tangy
American cousin
Chow: fruit, especially
young ones, pickled in
vinegar, salt and pepper. Add
as much hot pepper as you
can stand. Favourites include
mango, pineapple, West
Indian plums
Coconut water: straight
from the nut
Corn: boiled, roasted or in
soup
Curried crab and dump-
lings: a Tobago speciality,
in which the steamed flour
dumpling offsets the dense
curry of the crab
Doubles: a pair of fried
Indian flatbread pieces with a
curried chickpea filling
Gyros: the traditional Arabic
wrap of grilled meat and
unleavened bread has been
gaining popularity outside
clubs, bars and parties
Oyster cocktails: fresh oys-
ters served in a tomato-based
sauce, sold by the glass
Roti: soft Indian flatbread
filled with meat or vege-
tables and wrapped over
itself to keep everything in
place
Shark and bake: the bake
is the mellow, fried round
of dough that houses the
sandwich. Add deep-fried
slices of shark or other fish.
Fresh vegetables, pineapple,
and an array of condiments
complete it
Souse: the brined feet of
pigs or chickens served with
lots of hot pepper
82 Trinidad
For the business travellerTrinidad offers accommodation options for business travellers of all kinds –
whether your needs are basic or fairly complicated. There are local as well
as international hotel brands in and around the capital and industrial centres.
In a place with a growing reputation for its conference-hosting facilities, our
business hotels can provide the services needed to make a professional visit
efficient.
Cour
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Hilt
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& Co
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We have just the place for you
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Some popular choices among business travellers:
Port of SpainHyatt Regency Trinidad on the city waterfront
Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre
overlooking the Savannah
Courtyard by Marriott less than
ten minutes from downtown Port of Spain
Kapok Hotel in Maraval
Near the airportHoliday Inn Express Hotel and Suites
San FernandoRoyal Hotel
Tradewinds Hotel
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86 Trinidad
Conference facilitiesThe idea of Port of Spain being the next great conference city is not
far-fetched.
One promising new area is our ability to facilitate conferences, semi-
nars, tradeshows, conventions and any other conceivable type of meeting.
We have well-equipped spaces for all sizes of gatherings, good infrastruc-
tural support services (technical and otherwise), and professional organisers
to pull everything together.
Cour
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For the vacationerMany good reasons to visit Trinidad, many different kinds
of places to stay. Charming boutique inns, no-frills self-
catering and nature retreats. Some of the hotels listed
in the business travel section cater to those with a little
luxury in mind.
Guesthouses and B&BsThe Allamanda (Woodbrook) and Par-May-La’s
(Newtown) are handy for Port of Spain.
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For the eco-enthusiastBirds, butterflies, turtles – yes, we have them
all. And gorgeous forests and hiking trails.
Many of our visitors who keep coming back
are nature lovers and each encounter with
the landscape is special.
There are some wonderful nature-orient-
ed havens in remote parts of Trinidad – some
on the beach, some in the mountains.
Bargain huntingDiscounted rates and packages are often available.
The peak visitor season is December-April
(expect higher rates); prices also increase
around Carnival time.
Last-minute rooms are often available, but
it’s best to book ahead for any international
events and conferences, and for traditionally
popular periods like Easter, Carnival, Christmas
and New Year.
Visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com
for current information.
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92 Trinidad
With a prime location in the heart of downtown Port of Spain, Hyatt Regency Trinidad is the premiere hotel for any type of getaway. Spacious suites o� er spectacular gulf views, fl at-screen televisions and our signature Hyatt Grand Bed, while our 9,000 square-foot locally inspired spa and rooftop infi nity pool overlooking the gulf provide a luxurious retreat. World-class cuisine and deluxe facilities designed to accommodate weddings, events and parties of all sizes ensure guests will get the most out of their stay. For reservations, call 868 623 2222 or visit trinidad.hyatt.com.
Escape the ordinary. Discover Hyatt Regency Trinidad.
HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2013 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
HYATT REGENCY TRINIDAD1 Wrghtson Road, Port of Spain868 623 2222
93www.discovertnt.com
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Welcome to Tobago
Here are two things to remember:
Tobago is small
Auchenskeoch, in the south of the island, is pronounced or-kin-skew.
While Tobago is certainly a more postcard Caribbean island than Trinidad, as we so often point
out, it really isn’t the most touristy place you can find. It can be surprisingly real. In its smallness,
everything is a shorter distance than it appears on the map. If you get off the coastal roads
and drive through the densely forested middle (where “forest” includes rainforest, bamboo,
deciduous and evergreens), the hills are low and close. Intimate. These narrow ribbons of road
wrap tightly around bends. Drive slowly: depending on the season, the way may be treacherous
with over-ripe mangoes spilling wantonly into the street. The dogs and chickens are all suicidal.
Tobago is very hilly, but gently so.
Auchenskeoch and its unlikely pronunciation is a good reminder that Tobago is full of surprises.
We’re eating out … and in
Tobago’s restaurant scene might not be as diverse as Trinidad’s but there’s a fair range
from the fine to the fast. It’s a great island for an outdoor lifestyle and that includes eating.
Establishments great and small offer al fresco dining and gorgeous views. Whether your table
is on a veranda overlooking the north coast or at the poolside of a luxury hotel, the ambiance
can be as good as the food. The Magdalena Grand does wonderful buffet dinners – a different
theme every night.
Tobago’s own specialities are fresh seafood, including lobster and crab: its signature dish
is curried crab and dumplings. The stalls at Store Bay are famous for this must-taste meal.
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If you’re in a position to do some self-catering, avail yourself of the fresh seafood and vege-
tables, homemade sauces, even yoghurt and cheese (look for the Orange Hill brand). Penny
Savers is a chain of small supermarkets in Canaan (Milford Road), Scarborough (Wilson Road)
and Carnbee village. If you need a few not-so-basic extras, Morshead Gourmet Foods at
Mt Pleasant, just off the Shirvan Road, carries some very fancy imports and exotic ingredients.
EtceteraFor other things you might need to pick up:Gulf City Mall (Lowlands), on the north side of the Claude Noel Highway opposite Tobago
Plantations estate, is the island’s main shopping centre. It also has Tobago’s only cineplex.
Scarborough Mall, in lower Scarborough, is a plaza with the essentials: banks, post office,
library, pharmacies, bus station, etc. The Scarborough Market, next to the Mall, is the place for
fish, fruit, vegetables and local foods, especially on Friday and Saturday mornings.
Save Our Sea Turtles (SOS) is a community-based organisation
that’s been working since 2000 to understand, monitor and protect
the vulnerable leatherbacks, hawksbills and green turtles that come to
shore in the Courland area of Tobago.
This year, instead of just telling you
how great turtles are, Discover asked
SOS member, Giancarlo Lalsingh, to
tell us more about what the guardians
of the turtles are thinking.
Why is keeping turtles
safe so important?
Sea turtles are incredible
creatures that have survived for
millions of years. They play an
integral part in the marine and
coastal environment they
inhabit. They provide many
beneficial ecological services,
and as a natural living resource,
contribute to building sustain-
able communities, not only in
Trinidad and Tobago but around
the world.
We are saving the turtles
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What makes someone stalk beaches for hours on end, losing sleep and
weight, to check on them?
In many respects, our lives are not that different from the long journey that sea turtles undertake.
From a tiny hatchling with a 1-in-1,000 chance of survival to a giant of the seas, travelling thousands
of miles through the ocean and finally returning after many decades to the beaches of their birth to
lay their eggs and begin the process all over again ... It would be a shame, after all that effort, to have
their eggs poached or worse, be killed. This is something we can all relate to.
What’s the hardest part?
Most people in T&T, even if they’ve never seen a turtle, know about them and the threats that
they face. Yet we still continue to engage in damaging activities that are leading these magnifi-
cent creatures down the path toward extinction.
Do more people want to help now? Why?
People feel a deep connection to sea turtles and are
helping in many different ways. Either through volun-
teering for beach patrols, helping with education and
awareness, or simply by supporting those who do.
Step
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This page Trinidad & Tobago has the third largest leatherback turtle nesting population. Matura and Grand Riviere, are the most important landing sites in Trinidad – they’re on the northeast coast. In Tobago, Turtle Beach on the southwest coast is the main spot.Previous page SOS’s Giancarlo Lalsingh says the most beautiful part of what he does is seeing the hatchlings head off into the sea. “Those are the fruits of many sleepless nights on the beach,” he says.
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We’re sunning, surfing, swimming …
As clichéd as it sounds, yes, this tiny island is full of hidden gems. But we don’t all treasure
the same things. Drive. Drive. Drive. Take it all in. It’s not impossible to plan an itinerary in
Tobago (and you should try it that way at least once), but sometimes you find the best things on
the way to somewhere else.
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Crown Point & the Caribbean coast
Back Bay: secluded small bay between Mt Irvine and Grafton, reached via a cliffside trail. Good
for body surfing, tanning and snorkelling. It’s isolated, so go in a group
Bloody Bay: nothing at all like its unfortunate name, this is one of Tobago’s most peaceful and
unspoilt beaches. There are changing rooms, picnic tables, bathroom facilities and lifeguards
on duty
Buccoo: home of the Easter time goat and crab racing. There’s a small bar on site
Canoe Bay: calm, shallow waters, great for kids and less enthusiastic swimmers. Just a five-
minute drive down a dirt road off the Milford Road. It’s rarely crowded, and the excellent facilities
include a bar and beachfront cabanas; there is a small entrance fee
Castara: a quiet beach in a friendly west-coast fishing village. Watch the fishermen hauling in their
nets, or buy bread baked in old-fashioned dirt ovens. Facilities include a restaurant, stores and craft
stalls, and there’s accommodation nearby
Englishman’s Bay: with its distinctive blue-green-gold water surrounded by rich forest, there
should be a colour named after this bay. One of Tobago’s popularly photographed beaches.
Great snorkelling
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Great Courland Bay (also called Turtle Beach): this long, sandy stretch is a nesting place for
leatherback turtles during the season (March-August), as is Stonehaven Bay next door
King Peter’s Bay: quiet and calm, with dark sand. Good snorkelling
Mt Irvine: a pair of beaches with excellent facilities, snorkelling and surfing. The hotel side
offers refreshments and beach amenities (a bar, restaurant, lifeguards, watersports and tour
operations). Equipment for various watersports can be hired on site
Parlatuvier: fishing village with a tranquil beach and a few snackettes
Pigeon Point: near Crown Point and close to Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, this is prob-
ably Tobago’s most popular and most photographed beach. There’s an entrance fee at the
end of the road into the Heritage Park. Food and drink, amenities and bathroom facilities,
watersports equipment, glass-bottom boat trips to Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool
Stonehaven Bay: a magnificent, rugged dark-sand beach. The area is home to some of
Tobago’s more luxurious resorts and villas
Store Bay: extremely popular beach with some of the best food in Tobago. The swimming
is good and the craft and souvenirs are better than you’d usually expect from beach stalls.
Glass-bottom boat tours leave twice a day for Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool. Can get a bit
crowded
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Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am-5pm or 10am-6pm, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas. Sun-screen and insect repellent are essential – tropical sun can quickly give a bad burn, even through cloud, and mosquito-born illnesses like dengue fever are still health threats.
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The Atlantic (windward) coast
Bacolet: close to Scarborough, this dark-sand beach is popular with surfers
Bellevue: accessed from the Belle Garden Bay Road junction, the waters here are calm by
windward-side standards
Granby Point: a windswept, dark-sand beach with the remains of a colonial fort
King’s Bay: a long, picturesque stretch with calm water and good facilities, including showers,
lifeguards and shaded cabanas. A good place to buy fresh fish, sometimes just hauled in
Little Rockly Bay: a scenic stretch running along the old coast road south of Scarborough,
with Atlantic Ocean views. Accommodation, restaurants and hangouts in the area
Man-o’-War Bay: in Charlotteville, at the northern tip of Tobago, you’ll find cottages, guest-
houses and eateries. The village is the main venue for the Fishermen’s Festival in June
Pirate’s Bay: a stunning beach with crystal-clear water and a fabulous view; accessed via dirt
track from the end of the Charlotteville seafront, or by sea
Richmond Beach: a quiet, pretty beach near a river mouth
Speyside & Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay: sandy beaches within swimming distance of the reef.
Speyside and Blue Waters offer tranquillity and great snorkelling. Glass-bottom boat trips to Angel
Reef, Goat Island and Little Tobago start here. Speyside itself, Tobago’s dive capital, has a tourist
office, watersports facilities, varied accommodation, and restaurants
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Forts: the British built a series of defensive forts around the coast in the
late 18th century, terrified (with good reason) that they were going to be
attacked by the French. By far the most important is Fort King George,
named after George III, standing high above Scarborough and com-
manding the town and the sea approaches. Several original buildings
and cannon survive. The Fort now houses the Tobago Museum (early
Amerindian and colonial collections), and provides a spectacular view
of the windward coast and the Atlantic. Fort Milford (1777) at Crown
Point is a good place to watch the sun go down, Fort Bennett (1778)
surveys part of the Caribbean coast near Mt Irvine, and Fort James
commands the headland at Plymouth, overlooking Courland Bay.
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We are more than just beaches
You’ve finally seen more gorgeous magical beaches than you thought could exist in one
tiny space. No? Even so, Tobago has more to recommend it than the soothing sand, the
luxurious water, the plentiful racing goats. Sometimes, something delightful (like a fruit punch
slushy) or fascinating (like a bizarre grave) is just around the corner. Don’t be surprised if you find
your favourite experience somewhere unexpected. Here are some of our favourites.
Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve: just beyond Plymouth – tropical fruit,
birdlife, a butterfly garden, shelter for endangered species
Arnos Vale: the 1857 waterwheel that once powered the mill at the old Arnos
Vale sugar estate is still there; so is an old Amerindian site, and the remains of
a slave village
Botanical Gardens: sloping grounds with majestic trees, a quiet escape from
the bustle of Scarborough among brilliant flamboyants, silk cotton trees and
royal palms
Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoon is the island’s first Ramsar Site (i.e. rec-
ognised as a wetland of international importance); the system includes the
inshore coral reefs and the Bon Accord mangrove swamps and seagrass beds,
where the rare green sea turtle is sometimes sighted
Charlotteville is peaceful and beautiful, snug on the shore of Tobago’s finest
natural harbour, Man-o’-War Bay. Like Speyside, it is an excellent dive centre
with its own dive shops. The beach is great for swimming, with beach facilities
at the southern end
Cuffie River Nature Retreat: hidden away inland and dedicated to nature
and tranquillity. Great bird watching, nature tours, and an easily accessible river
Flagstaff Hill: almost the northernmost tip of Tobago, reached via an un-
paved road from the crest of the hill before descending into Charlotteville.
It was the site of an American military lookout and radio tower during World
War II. The view is panoramic, encompassing St Giles Islands and the village of
Charlotteville
106 Tobago
Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary: a former cocoa estate which evolved into a bird
sanctuary after 1963’s Hurricane Flora; the birds are fed at the Copra House around 4pm
Kimme Museum, Bethel: the workshop and gallery of the late German sculptor Luise Kimme,
best known for her larger-than-life Tobago dancers and folklore characters hand-carved from
wood. Kimme died in 2013 and a large part of the collection was lent to the Duesseldorf Kuns-
takademie. Call the gallery for up-to-date information (639-0257)
King’s Bay was once a large Carib settlement. The water is
calm and warm, and there are beach facilities. King’s
Bay Waterfall can be reached via a trail on the oppo-
site side of the road; the falls may be dry if there’s
been little rain
Main Ridge & Forest Reserve: the Main Ridge
runs down two-thirds of the island like a spine.
Designated in 1776, it is the western hemi-
sphere’s oldest protected reserve – pro-
tected specifically for reasons of con-
servation. A good scenic road runs
across the Ridge from Bloody Bay
to Roxborough, giving access to forest
trails like Gilpin Trace, an easy 45-minute walk to
a small waterfall
Richmond Great House: this quiet and charm-
ing Great House (1776) has been attractively re-
stored to function as a guesthouse/hotel and
restaurant. It houses an extensive collection of
African art
Speyside is Tobago’s diving centre, and the
departure point for Little Tobago, the island
bird sanctuary off the northeast coast. Stop
and enjoy the magnificent view from the
Speyside Lookout just before the descent into
the town. Tourist office, good dive shops and waters-
ports operators
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Waterfalls: experienced guides will
take you to the three-tiered Argyle
Falls near Roxborough (there is an
entrance fee). Rainbow Waterfall is
another beautiful spot
Right Laughing gulls are everywhere in TobagoBelow Argyle Falls, Tobago’s highest waterfall,
cascades down a series of steps. There are refreshing pools along the hike to the falls Opposite page Tobago-based artist Luise
Kimme’s larger-than-life dancers
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We are divers
Take a deep breath, breathe out slowly, look around. Fish everywhere: silver, black, yel-
low, blue. Big ones, tiny ones, listen to the crackling of the rock shrimp. Turtle! Look, a
hawksbill! So majestic! Check under that rock, it’s a nurse shark. Amazing! Wait, there’s a lobster,
its massive feelers waving in the current. Is that a stingray covering itself with sand? It’s huge!
There’s another one. Turtle! This one is a green turtle, you can tell from the mouth.
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www.tobagoscubadiving.com
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Diving in Tobago is a sensory trip. There is
so much going on, vistas of beautiful fish and
coral, usually excellent visibility; manta, eagle
and sting rays are perennial attractions, as well
as hammerhead, nurse and black-tipped
reef sharks; hawksbill, green and leather-
back turtles; moray eels; barracuda; dol-
phin; and pelagic species such as marlin. With
really friendly and helpful dive operators like
Marcus from Extra Divers in Crown Point
([email protected]), you are sure to enjoy
your dives.
There is good diving to be had everywhere
around the coasts, with over 60 established
dive sites (mainly around the northern tip)
— shallow reef dives, deep diving, wreck div-
ing, drift diving. Most dive operators offer in-
troductory courses; there is a decompression
chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility,
20 minutes’ drive from Speyside.
Licensed operators offer PADI or NAUI
dive training for the inexperienced, as well
as equipment rental and sale for those who
don’t have their own. Most dives are drift
dives and the current can be fairly strong but
your dive operator will know the best sites
for the conditions and the divers’ relative
experience. The best part is that there is usu-
ally a maximum of ten people on any dive,
including the dive-master, which makes for a
much more personal experience.
We strongly recommend using a PADI
(Professional Association of Diving In-
structors) registered guide.
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Healing with horsesThis is a weekly programe that brings differently-abled Tobagonian children together with horses. The kids can also try arts and crafts, music, dance, yoga, nature walks, gardening and sport. All of these are highly successful forms of therapy – and they’re fun. This is a non-profit organisation run by Veronika LaFortune and her husband along with many volunteers. To volunteer time or to contribute in cash or kind, write to [email protected]
The same team is responsible for Being with Horses. Here, visitors to Tobago can enjoy swim-ride sessions, trail rides and picnic rides. Call as much in advance as possible as they’re almost always fully booked.
www.healing-with-horses.com
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Find out about ...
Rockly Bay, Scarborough’s natural harbour, looks peaceful enough now, but in 1677 it was
the scene of two horrendous naval battles between fleets of French and Dutch warships, and
the sea bed is supposedly strewn with wrecks and remnants. The first serious excavations have
begun and may well produce some interesting discoveries in the coming months.
Plymouth, on the Caribbean coast, has a striking modernist sculpture, the Courland Monu-
ment (1976), which commemorates 17th-century settlers from Courland, now part of Latvia.
How on earth did proto-Latvians end up settling by beautiful Courland Bay in far-off Tobago?
It’s a long and intriguing story.
Plymouth is also the site of the Mystery Tombstone, a small grave whose inscription is
supposed to be so mysterious that no one can figure out what it means. It is the resting place of
one Betty Stivens: “She was a mother without knowing it, and a wife without letting her husband
know it, except by her kind indulgences to
him ...”
Tobago’s culture and folklore are
quite different from Trinidad’s, and well
worth discovering. Various traditions are
celebrated at the Tobago Heritage Festival
in July: the old-time wedding in Moriah, for
example, the groom sporting his stove-
pipe hat and tailcoat, and the bride with
her trousseau on her head as the wedding
party processes slowly to church and on
to the reception with the distinctive To-
bago three-step “brush back”.
Tambrin music is quintessential
Tobago, driven by three shallow goat-
skin tambrin drums (high-pitched cutter,
roller, and boom bass), fiddle, and steel
Not everything is as it seems. Sometimes there’s a lot more story; sometimes it’s just
utterly unexpected.
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triangle. The Tobago reel and jig are indigenous dances from Pembroke, with roots in West
African rituals invoking the ancestors, and accompanied by tambrin music. Speech bands are
a Tobago Carnival tradition, featuring a cast of costumed characters speechifying in rhyme.
Harvest festivals are held in the villages, a church service followed by a lavish cook-up.
Right Traditional dirt oven still in use
Previous page The curiously inscribed tombstone of Betty
Stivens has been offering up its riddle
since 1763
114 Tobago
REAL ESTATE SALES ... VILLA RENTALS ... PROPERTY MANAGEMENT
Corner Milford & Golden Grove Roads, Canaan, Tobago, W.I.
Tel.: (868) 639-5263 / 639-9663 Fax.: (868) 639-2258
Website: www.realestatetobago.comEmail: [email protected]
FOR BEAUTIFUL PROPERTIESTHROUGHOUT TOBAGO
Moving to Tobago
There are some holidays you
never want to end. Visitors to
Tobago often find a way to make
that happen: they move there. Quiet,
gorgeous Tobago isn’t just a good
idea as a holiday home or a place to
retire. You might find the pace and
space simply suit you.
The full market range is avail-
able in Tobago, from single-family
homes, townhouses and duplexes
to luxury mansion and villas by the
golf course. Just as if you were buying a house anywhere, get a feel for the island. Small as it is,
there’s still variety: beach or mountain, small community or far-flung farm. Get a good agent,
like Abraham Tobago Realty or Caribbean Estates, and start looking.
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Where to stay
Crown Point is the hub of tourist activity,
with restaurants, shopping, beautiful beaches
(Store Bay, Pigeon Point), historical sites and
the airport all in walking distance of most
properties. It also offers the most options:
beach/inland, hotel/apartment, restaurant/
self-catering, upscale/budget, etc.
Scarborough accommodation is less
appealing for vacationers hankering for a
beach, but may suit business travellers with
work to do in town.
Villas: if you’re travelling with a group and
sharing costs, a villa can be a luxurious but
very affordable option. At the high end you
can live like royalty, though the simpler,
cottage-style properties are very congenial
too. Apart from spectacular ocean or moun-
tain views and elegant neo-colonial design,
The southern tip of Tobago is where hotels and resorts are thickest on the ground – per-
fect if you like lots of activity and company. If you prefer to get away from the crowds,
head for the nearby coasts – Mt Irvine, Lowlands, Tobago Plantations. The further north you
go, the more tranquil accommodation tends to get.
116 Tobago
services like airport transfers and
tours are often included. Villas are a
popular choice for wedding ceremo-
nies and wedding parties. Typically, a
villa will supply staff to cook for you,
or you can opt to cater for yourself.
Themed holidays: Tobago is a des-
tination noted for bird watching, div-
ing, and a variety of eco and outdoor
pursuits. Conveniently, these tend to
be grouped in specific areas.
Diving enthusiasts tend to head
straight for the northeast, towards
Speyside and Charlotteville
Golfers like to be near Mt Irvine or
Tobago Plantations in Lowlands
Grafton Beach Road, Black Rock, TobagoTel: (868) 639-0686 • Fax: (868) 639-0057
T H E S E A H O R S E I N NR e s t a u r a n t & B a r
BEACH SIDE DINING AT ITS BEST
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www.MagdalenaGrand.com
Tobago is not your ordinary island, it is an unspoiled island rich with eco-adventure, beaches and superb diving. The island is home to the oldest protected rainforest in the world.
Magdalena Grand has all oceanfront rooms with balconies, golf, tennis, three swimming pools, a Padi dive center, spa services and a choice of restaurants and bars. It is located in the tropical Tobago Plantations Estate, a 750-acre gated community.
Visit the “True Caribbean” in beautiful Tobago.
MaGdalena Grand is TobaGo’s
PreMiuM HoTel
Reservations : 1.868.660.8500 U.K. Local Rate: 0845 004 8276
MAG-13-193 Consumer HalfPgAd - Discover Trinidad & Tobago.indd 1 8/5/13 12:16 PM
STUNNING BEACHFRONT PROPERTIES FOR SALE
Beautiful Homes & Land for saleVacation Villa Rentals
www.abrahamrealty.comEmail: [email protected]
Tel: 868-639-3325
Whether you desire a luxury ocean frontvilla or a small retirement cottage…
or simply wish to spend your vacation inparadise, we’ll find “your place in the sun”
Nature lovers look outside the touristy
southwest, heading instead for inland prop-
erties near the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, or
further up the Caribbean coast
Wedding parties tend to opt for the island’s
upscale villas (see above)
Therapeutic holiday, a break to regroup and
recharge the batteries. Kariwak Village (which
describes itself as a “holistic haven” and
pioneered this sort of vacation in Tobago)
offers yoga, tai-chi, ozone and photon light
therapies etc.
Visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com and
www.visittobago.gov for current deals.
118 Tobago
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Getting married?
There are local wed-
ding planners who
can organise part or all of
your arrangements. Venue,
flowers, decorations, pho-
tographers and entertainers
– they’ve got it covered.
Church? Beach? Under-
water? All-inclusive honey-
moon package, an oceanside
vista, accommodation for a
hundred guests? Villa, hotel
or resort for your honey-
moon? All can be arranged.
Need to do• Establish temporary residency in Trinidad &
Tobago by scheduling any wedding
activities for at least three full days after
your arrival
• Obtain a special marriage licence (US$55) at
the Inland Revenue Department, with proof
of identity (e.g. valid passport) and a valid
return air ticket
• If you are divorced or widowed, bring
evidence of your single status, and show
the relevant divorce decree or death
certificate. Documents which are not in
English must be accompanied by a
notarised English translation
• If you are under 18, get the written consent
of your parent or guardian
• Bring two witnesses to the ceremony,
identified by their passports
• Schedule the ceremony between 6am and 6pm
• You will receive two official marriage certifi-
cates that are accepted in most countries,
but confirm this and check well in advance
for any additional requirements for recogni-
tion in your home country.
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See you soon!
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The Villas at Stonehaven & The Pavilion Restaurant
Black Rock • Tobago • West Indies
Tel: 868-639-0361
www.stonehavenvillas.com
Savour your stay, treasure your visit...
*
* Image courtesy Skene Howie
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Trinidad
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Port of Spain
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San Fernando
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Tobago
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132 Index
AAccommodation 82-93, 115-118
Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve 105
Airbridge 8
Airlines 8
Airports 5
Alice Yard 29
Amerindian Heritage Day 21
Argyle Falls 107
Ariapita Avenue 26
Arima 7, 15, 19, 42
Aripo Caves 51
Arnos Vale 105
Asa Wright Nature
Centre 46
ATM, ABM 6
BBack Bay 100
Bacolet 103
Balandra 56
Banwari Trace 49
Beaches 28, 55-57, 99-103
Bed & breakfast 89
Bellevue Beach 103
Blanchisseuse 55
Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay 103
Bmobile 6
Brian Lara Promenade 46
Buccoo Reef 101, 105
Bus service 8
Bicycles 7
Birds 28, 51, 106
Bloody Bay 100
Bon Accord Lagoon 105
Book festival (NGC Bocas Lit Fest) 41
Botanical Gardens 29, 45, 105
Bovell, George III 64
Buccoo 100, 105
Business 82, 84
Business hotels 82
Butterflies 28
Bzone 6
CCalendar of events 12-23
Calypso 36, 68, 74
Canoe Bay 100
Capitals 10
Carnival 12-14, 28, 31-37, 113
Caroni Bird Sanctuary 52
Car rentals 8
Castara 19, 100
Cathedrals 28
Cedros Bay 57
Cerro del Aripo, El 51
Chacachacare 48
Chaguanas 7-8, 49-50
Chaguaramas 5, 8, 30, 48, 53
Charlotteville 5, 105, 116
Chinese New Year 12
Chow 81
Index
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Christmas 23
Climate 10
Columbus Bay 57
Coral reefs 105
Crab racing 100, 15
Cricket 59
Crown Point 100, 115
Cuffie River Nature
Retreat 105
Cuisine (see Food)
Curried crab & dumplings 81, 95
Cycling 58
DDance 66
Decompression chamber 9
Derby 60
Devil’s Woodyard 49
Dimanche Gras 14, 36
Divali 21, 43, 50
Diving 19, 106, 108-110, 116
Domestic flights 8
Doubles 81
Dragon boat racing 58
Driving 6
EEaster weekend 15
Eco-lodges 46, 51, 90
Economy 10
Edith Falls 30, 53
Eid-ul-Fitr 18, 42
Electricity 6
El Tucuche 29, 51
Emancipation Day 19
Emergencies 9
Emperor Valley Zoo 45
Englishman’s Bay 5, 100
Entry requirements 5
Events (see Calendar)
FFashion 66, 70, 74
Ferries 8
Festivals 12-23, 39-43
Film festival 20, 66
Fine dining 76
Fisherman’s Fete 19
Flagstaff Hill 105
Food 76, 81, 95
Football 3, 61
Fort Bennett 104
Fort George 49
Fort King George 104
Fort Milford 104
GGalera Point 50
Game fishing 14, 64
Ganga Dhaara Festival 41
Gasparee Caves 48
Gas stations (see Maps)
Glass-bottom boats 101
Goat racing 15
Golf 60
Grafton Beach 5
134 Index
Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary 106
Granby Point 103
Grande Rivière 52, 57, 64
Granville Beach 57
Great Courland Bay 101
Great Fête 18
Great Race 62
Guanapo Gorge 51
Guesthouses 89
Gulf City Lowlands 96
HHall of Justice 46
Hanuman Temple 50
Harvest festivals 113
Hasely Crawford Stadium 58
Hashing 60
Heights of Guanapo 51
Hiking 53, 60, 90
Hockey 60
Holi 40
Holidays (see Calendar and Festivals)
Horse racing 60
Horse riding 60
Hosay 22, 43
Hotels 82-93, 115-118
IIndependence Day 19
Indian Arrival Day 41
JJazz 15, 40
Jean Pierre Complex 58
Jewellery 66, 70, 72-74
J’ouvert 14, 32, 36
KKayaking 55, 57, 60
Kes the Band 32
Kimme Museum 106
King’s Bay 103, 106
King’s Bay Waterfall 106
LLa Brea 51
Labour Day 17
La Divina Pastora 16
Las Cuevas 55
La Vega Garden Centre 50
Liming 26-27
Literature 66
Little Rockly Bay 103
Little Tobago 103, 106
Location 10
Long Circular Mall 6, 71
Lopinot 50
MMagnificent Seven 29, 45
Mail 6
Main Ridge, Tobago 106
Man-o’-War Bay 103
Manzanilla 56
Macqueripe 48
Maps 122-131
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Northwest Trinidad 126
Northeast Trinidad 127
Port of Spain 124-125
San Fernando 128-129
Tobago 130-131
Trinidad 122-123
Maracas Bay 6, 55
Maracas Open Water
Classic 20
Maracas Waterfall 54
Marriage licence 119
Mixed martial arts 63
Mas 36
Masquerade 35-36
Matura 52, 53, 56, 98
Mayaro 56
Methanol 10, 51
Mobile phones 6
Motor sports 62
Mount St Benedict 28, 51
Mount Irvine 101
Mountain biking 62
Mud volcanoes 49
Music 27, 36, 40, 42, 68,
74, 113
Mystery Tombstone 112
NNariva 52, 64
National Academy of
Performing Arts 45
National Museum 29, 68
National Stadium 58
Nightclubs 26-27
Northern Range 50-51
Nylon Pool 101
OOropouche 49
Osun River Festival 19
PPan 22
Pan Is Beautiful 22
Panorama 36, 39
Paramin Parang Festival 23
Parang 22-23, 42, 50, 74
Paria Beach 56
Parlatuvier 101
Parties and partying 26
Petrochemicals 51
Petrol stations (see Maps)
Phagwa 14, 40
Phone service 6
Pigeon Point 6, 13, 101, 115
Pirate’s Bay 103
Pitch Lake, The 51
Plymouth 104-105, 112
Point Fortin Borough
Day 15
Point Lisas Industrial
Estate 51
Pointe-à-Pierre 51, 58
Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl
Trust 51
Population 10
Port of Spain 1, 10, 26-30,
45-46, 70-71, 84, 86, 89
Port of Spain Waterfront 1
President’s House 45
QQueen’s Hall 45
Queen’s Park Oval 59
Queen’s Park Savannah 29,
45
Quinam Beach 57
RRamleela 21
Real estate 114
Red House 46
Regatta 13
Republic Day 20
Restaurants 26-27, 76, 115
Richmond Beach 103
Richmond Great House 106
Rockly Bay 112
Roti 76, 81
Roxborough 110
SSafety & security 35
Sailing 5, 12-13, 62
Saline (Sally) Bay 56
Salybia 53, 56
San Fernando 8, 51, 70-71, 84
San Fernando Hill 51
Santa Rosa Festival 42
136 Index
Scarborough 5, 8, 10, 70,
96, 112, 115
Scarlet ibis 52
Scuba diving 108-110
Shopping 28, 96
downtown 70
malls 71
online 70
Spiritual Shouter
Baptists 14, 40
Snorkelling 55, 100-101,
103
Soca 13, 36, 39
Soca Monarch 36, 39
Soccer (see Football)
Speyside 103, 106
Sport 58-64
Steelband/Steelpan 39
Steelpan Music Festival 22
St James 27
Stonehaven Bay 101
Store Bay 5-6,95, 101, 115
Street food 26-27, 76, 81
Surfing 13, 56, 64, 99-101
Swimming 55-57, 64, 99,
101, 103, 105
TTaxes 6
Taxis 5, 7
maxis 7
maxi-taxi routes 7
private taxis 7
route taxis 7
water taxi 8
Telecommunications 6
Television 50
Temple in the sea 52
Tennis 64
Theatre 68
Tobago
accommodation 115-
118
beaches 99-103
environment 97
food 95
Tobago Carnival Regatta 13
Tobago Forest Reserve 106
Tobago Heritage
Festival 18, 113
Tobago Museum 104
Tobago Underwater
Carnival 19
Toco 50, 57
Tour operators 8, 52
Tourism Development
Company (TDC) 9
Trade fairs 50, 72
Traditional mas 36
Trekking 53
Triathlon 16
Trincity Mall 6, 71
TT Post 6
Turtle Beach 98, 101
Turtles 52, 56, 97-98
Tyrico Bay 55
VVessigny Beach 57
Visual arts 68
WWater 6
Waterfalls 48, 51, 54, 56,
60, 107
Waterloo 52
Water sports 48
We Beat Festival 17, 42
Weddings 119
Wi-fi 6
Woodford Square 46
Y Yachts 5