Discover

1 Sights

5 Eating

6 Drinking

4 Sleeping

8 Information

ContentsI

Throughout this book, we use these icons to highlight special recommendations:

These icons help you quickly identify reviews in the text and on the map:

Don’t MissA must-see – don’t go home until you’ve been there

If you like…Lesser-known alternatives to world-famous attractions

Local experts reveal their top picks and secret highlights

DetourSpecial places a little off the beaten track

The Best…Lists for everything from bars to wildlife – to make sure you don’t miss out

This edition written and researched by

Fionn Davenport Catherine Le Nevez, Etain O’Carroll,

Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Neil Wilson

Ireland

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p51

Dublin

p99

Wicklow &EasternIreland

p137

Kilkenny& the

Southeastp175

Cork & theRing of Kerry

p217Galway,Clare &

the West

p261Sligo &Donegal

p293

Belfast,Derry & the

Antrim CoastKilkenny & the

SoutheastHighlights .............................. 140

Dungarvan

Rock of Cashel

Kilkenny City

Walks on Hook Head

Southeastern Kitchens

National 1798 Rebellion Centre

Cork & the Ring of KerryHighlights .............................. 178

Killarney

Skellig Michael

The English Market

Killarney National Park

Kinsale

Slea Head

Galway, Clare & the WestHighlights ............................. 220

Trad Sessions in Clare

Connemara

Galway

Music Festivals

Cliff s of Moher

Clonmacnoise

Aran Islands

Wicklow & Eastern IrelandHighlights .............................. 102

Brú na Bóinne

Glendalough

Powerscourt Estate

Monasterboice

Castletown House

Old Mellifont Abbey

DublinHighlights ............................... 54

Chester Beatty Library

Trinity College

Irish Museum of Modern Art

Kilmainham Gaol

A Pint of Plain

Dublin Greenery

tH

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Contents

Dublin 51Highlights ..................... 54

Best… .............................58

Walking Tour ................ 60

Dublin ............................ 62

Wicklow & Eastern Ireland 99Highlights ....................102

Best… ...........................106

Itineraries ....................108

County Wicklow ......... 110Glendalough................ 112Sally Gap ..................... 112Enniskerry & Powerscourt Estate .... 116Blessington ................. 119Southern Wicklow ......120Brook Lodge & Wells Spa .......................121

County Kildare ...........122Maynooth ....................123Straffan .......................124

County Meath .............125Brú na Bóinne .............125Battle of the Boyne Site ............................... 127Trim .............................. 127Tara ..............................129Loughcrew Cairns ......132

County Louth ..............133Drogheda ....................133Around Drogheda .......133

This Is Ireland .................6

Ireland Map .....................8

Ireland’s Top 25 Experiences ..................10

Ireland’s Top Itineraries ......................32

Month by Month ......... 42

What’s New .................. 46

Get Inspired ..................47

Need to Know .............. 48

Counties Sligo & DonegalHighlights ............................ 264

Surf Beaches

Slieve League

Drumcliff & Benbulben

Climb Mt Errigal

Ardara Weavers

Golf Links

Belfast, Derry & the Antrim CoastHighlights ............................ 296

Coastal Causeway Route

Bogside, Derry

West Belfast

The Antrim Coast

Mourne Mountains

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Historic Derry/Londonderry

On the RoadPlan Your Trip

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Contents

County Galway .......... 230Galway City ................ 230Aran Islands ............... 234Dún Aengus .................237Connemara .................237Lough Inagh Valley ....... 241

Clonmacnoise ............ 242

County Clare ..............244Ennis ........................... 244Bunratty ......................247Kilkee .......................... 248Kilkee to Lahinch ....... 249Cliffs of Moher ............ 251The Burren ................. 252

County Mayo.............. 256Cong ........................... 256Croagh Patrick ............257Westport .................... 258

Counties Sligo & Donegal 261Highlights ...................264

Best… .......................... 268

Itineraries ................... 270

County Sligo ...............272Sligo Town ...................272Drumcliff & Benbulben . 276

County Donegal .........276Donegal Town .............277Around Donegal Town .278Southwestern Donegal ...................... 280Surf Spots ................... 281

Cork & the Ring of Kerry 175Highlights .................... 178

Best... ...........................182

Itineraries ....................184

County Cork ................186Cork City .....................186Midleton & Around ......191Western Cork .............. 191The Gourmet Heartlandof Ballymaloe .............. 193Eyeries to Lauragh ......194Mizen Head Peninsula .....................195Beara Peninsula(Ring of Beara) ...........196

County Kerry ..............196Killarney ......................196Around Killarney........200Muckross Estate .........201Ring of Kerry .............. 204Skellig Islands ............ 206Skellig Michael ........... 209Dingle Peninsula ......... 211

Galway, Clare & the West 217Highlights ................... 220

Best… .......................... 226

Itineraries ................... 228

Kilkenny & the Southeast 137Highlights ................... 140

Best… ...........................144

Itineraries ....................146

County Kilkenny.........148Kilkenny City ...............148Central Kilkenny .........152

County Wexford .........152Kilmore Quay .............. 152Saltee Islands .............. 153Hook Peninsula & Around .........................153Jerpoint Abbey ............154New Ross ....................155Enniscorthy .................156Wexford & the Kennedys ...................... 157

County Waterford ...... 157Waterford City ............ 157Southeast County Waterford ....................160Dunmore East .............160Dungarvan .................. 162Ring Peninsula ............164Ardmore ......................164Lismore .......................166Northern County Waterford .................... 167

County Tipperary .......168Cashel ..........................168Cahir ............................ 172

0b-contents-dc-ire2.indd 4 25/11/2011 4:22:54 PM

Ireland Today .............330

History ........................ 332

The Irish Way of Life .......................... 345

Food & Drink ..............348

The Pub ....................... 353

Irish Mythological Symbols ...................... 355

Literary Ireland ......... 358

Traditional Music ...... 362

Family Travel ..............364

Sporting Ireland ........366

Directory ....................370Accommodation ........ 370Activities ..................... 371Business Hours ......... 373Customs ......................374Electricity ....................375Gay & Lesbian Travellers .....................375Health ..........................375Insurance ....................375Internet Access ..........375Legal Matters..............376Money ..........................376Public Holidays ...........376School Holidays..........377Safe Travel ..................377Telephone ...................377Time ............................ 378Tourist Information ... 378Travellers with Disabilities.................. 378Visas ........................... 379Women Travellers ..... 379

Transport .................... 379Getting There & Away ........................... 379Getting Around .......... 380

Language ...................386

Behind the Scenes ....388

Index ........................... 391

How to Use This Book ...................399

Our Writers .............. 400

Slieve League ............. 282Northwestern Donegal ...................... 283Maghery & the Glen Gesh Pass ................... 284Eastern Donegal ........ 285Glenveagh National Park ...............................286Northeastern Donegal ....................... 287

Belfast, Derry & the Antrim Coast 293Highlights ................... 296

Best… .......................... 302

Itineraries ...................304

Belfast.........................306

Around Belfast ...........316Mourne Mountains .....316Holywood ....................316Portrush ......................318Bushmills.....................318Giant’s Causeway to Ballycastle ...................319Giant's Causeway ....... 321Glens of Antrim ......... 322

County Derry ............. 322Derry/Londonderry .. 322

Survival GuideIn Focus

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This Is Ireland

...postcard-perfect

peninsulas, the brooding loneliness of Connemara

and the wildness of

Donegal

For such a tiny country, Ireland gets a pretty big billing. Its praises are sung in song and described in prose; its many charms are evoked to delicious perfection by artists on canvas and poets in verse. They tell of a green landscape brushed with rain, a wild coastline tormented by a wind-blown sea… Hang on, can this idyll actually be real?

As it turns out, it is. You’ll find this side of Ireland along the postcard-perfect peninsulas of the southwest, the brooding loneliness of Connemara and the dramatic wildness of County Donegal. Ireland may have modernised dramatically, but some things never change. Brave the raging Atlantic on a crossing to Skellig Michael or spend a summer’s evening in the yard of a thatched cottage pub and you’ll experience a country that has changed little in generations – this is most likely the Ireland you came to see.

Despite the trappings of modernity and the fickle hand of fortune, Ireland remains one of the world’s most beau-tiful countries, and is worth every effort you make to explore it. And when we say Ireland, we mean the whole island – the North, for so long scarred by conflict, is now finally engaged in the process of recovery and is able once again to parade its stunning self to a world that for so long only knew of it through the stories on the evening news.

Céad míle fáilte – a hundred thousand welcomes. Why a hundred thousand when one is perfectly adequate everywhere else? Everyone has heard of Irish friendliness, and once you arrive you’ll gladly dis-cover it’s not a myth. A bit of friendly banter and the offer of a helping hand – to read a map, make sense of garbled directions or share a pint (it’s a sin to drink alone!) – are never far from the first hello, for the Irish consider hospitality to be their greatest asset. A hundred thousand welcomes. It seems excessive, but in Ireland, excess is fine, so long as it’s practised in moderation. Friendly but never fawning.

Cliff s of Moher (p251), County ClareRICHARD CUMMINS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

6

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