Designing Fashion 1 Chapter 7 DesigningFashion The Design Process Making Fashion.

Designing FashionDesigning Fashion

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Chapter 7Designing Designing FashionFashion

The Design ProcessThe Design Process

Making FashionMaking Fashion


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Chapter ObjectivesDescribe the three divisions of apparel manufacturers

Explain the roles and types of fashion designers.

Identify the elements and principles of design used to create fashion.

Identify the steps in the garment production process.

Compare haute-couture production and prêt-à-porter production.

Explain how women’s and men’s apparel are sized.


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Apparel Company Divisions

The three divisions of apparel manufacturers are:

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DesignDivision:

Buy Fabrics/Design a line

ProductionDivision:

Produce the garments

SalesDivision:

Sell completedapparel to stores

All divisions work together to make it happen!


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The Role of the Fashion Designer

Designers must anticipate what their target market will buy

Select the appropriate fabrics that will sell.

Produce finished garments or accessories at prices that customers will pay.

Create original designs and choose appropriate fabrics Supervise assistants who carry out their ideas. May also spend time on administrative tasks.

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The Role of the Fashion Designer

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Types of Designers

Self-EmployedDesigners

Design-HouseDesigners

Designers forManufacturers

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Elements of Design

The elements of design are:

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Color

Silhouette

Line

Fabric

Texture

The elements must be chosen according to principles.

The elements must be combined effectively to achieve harmony.


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Elements of Design

Research has shown that customers respond to color before any other design element.

Texture is determined by fibers, yarns, and the method of construction.

color a visual characteristic, representing hue and tone, that is one of the most important elements of fashion design

texture a characteristic of the surface of a material in terms of how it feels and looks

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Elements of Design

The next considerations are the silhouette and line.

silhouette the overall form, or outline of a garment

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line a distinct elongated mark that directs the eye movement when viewing the garment


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Principles of Design

Besides using the basic elements of design, a skilled designer also applies the principles of design.

principles of design the standards for creating good design that include proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony

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Principles of Design

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The relationship of all the spaces of the garment.Proportion

The relationship (either symmetrical or asymmetrical) of one side of the garment to the other.Balance

A sense of movement through the repetition of lines, shapes, and colors.Rhythm

The center of interest, or the focal point, of the garment.Emphasis

Harmony is achieved when the designer has applied all of the principles of design to a fashion design.Harmony

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Design Process and Schedules:Marketing period is 6 months before customers will purchase…

Designers have it ready 2-3 months before that!

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Steps of the Design ProcessStep 1 Step 2 Step 3

Step 4 Step 5 Step 6

Basic Decisions

Design Concept and

Samples

Sales Research Analysis

Design Presentation

Purchase Orders

Production

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Design Process and Schedules

Designers use computer-aided design (CAD) systems as a tool, like a paintbrush, to produce creations.

computer-aided design (CAD) computer programs that perform many design functions to create design

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CAD allows for quick production through technology and machines.


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The Garment Production Process

The fashion industry uses computer-aided design (CAD) systems to complete patternmaking.

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patternmaking the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to produce an apparel item

Computer systems also facilitate grading.

grading the technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size


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Costing is the process of calculating the production costs of a garment in order to set a wholesale price.

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wholesale the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers

The wholesale price includes:Cost of labor

Materials

Markup


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Garments are mass-produced and cut and sewn in an assembly-line manner.

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computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and-sewing process

Many manufacturers use computer-aided manufacturing (CAM).


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After a garment is constructed:An inspector checks it for flaws.

Hangtags attached to garments provide information such as fabric content and care instructions.

Labels attached to garments identify the name of the manufacturer or the line of clothing.

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Haute couture is the French term for high-fashion custom made designer clothing.

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prêt-á-porter French term for designer ready-to-wear clothing

Prêt-á porter is less expensive than haute couture, but it generates more income for couture fashion houses.


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Size ClassificationsThe different groupings of a sizing system in retail stores are known as size classifications.

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sizing system a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development

Vanity sizing gives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size.

Standard measurements vary from one manufacturer to another…

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Women’s Size System- based on shape of figure

MissesWomen’s/

LargeJuniors Petites

Styling

Conservative adaptation of previous season’s styles

Same as misses with some junior styles

Young, trendy, figure-conscious styles

Same as misses’ styles

Age 25 and up 18 and up 15 to 25 25 and up

Size Range

Even sizes 0-20Even sizes 16-26W, 16-26WP or higher

Odd sizes 3-15 Petite 0-14

FigureFully developed; over 5’4”

Larger proportioned

Not fully developed

Fully developed; under 5’4”

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Size Classifications-Men’s sizing

More standard than women’s sizing.

Men’s slacks, dress shirts, and tailored apparel

are sized with a dual-sizing system,

or a combination of two measurements. Example: pants – 30/32 (waist/length)

dress shirts – 16, 34/35 (neck/sleeve length)

Most men’s sports shirts and sweaters are offered in small, medium, large, and extra large.

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What are some roles of the fashion designer?Anticipate what target market will buy, produce finished products at prices customers will pay, create original designs, select appropriate fabrics, supervise

What are the five basic principles of design?Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis and harmony

What are the three divisions of apparel manufacturing and what do they accomplish?Design Division: Buy fabrics, design a line

Production Division: Produce the garments

Sales Division: Sell completed apparel to stores

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What are the six key steps in the apparel production process? Basic decisions -> Design concepts and samples -> Sales research analysis -> Design presentation -> Purchase orders -> Production

What are the production differences between haute couture and prêt-á-porter?Haute-couture garments are more precise, custom-made by hand (hand sewn) to fit the customer. Pret-a-Porter garments require very little hand sewing and are mass produced in ready-to-wear styles and sizes (not custom)

What is the difference between women’s and men’s sizing? Women’s clothing is based on shape of the figure and includes numbered sizes. Men’s sizing is more standard and uses a dual sizing system based on measurement numbers.

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Designing Fashion 1 Chapter 7 DesigningFashion The Design Process Making Fashion.

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