Denim Washing Process

8/9/2019 Denim Washing Process

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denim washing process

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSFirst of all we thank Almighty Allah who brought this moment in our life when we

we came in US DENIM for the project. It has been a great experience to work with

with all of you and we are feeling proud that we can say we have worked in US

DENIM which is not only one of the best DENIM manufacturer & Exporters in

Pakistan but also all over the world and where the management and the workers have

workers have demonstrated a very good performance in all areas of the business.

business.

US DENIM is a dynamic organization with professionals loving and professionals

making setup. As it is said Time Spent in Training is time Well-spent. The golden

golden time, which we spend here and the practical, conceptual and industry- related

related knowledge, which we gained here will be a milestone in our professionalcarrier.

We would like to thanks

US DENIM MANAGEMENT

Mr. Asif (HR Manager US Denim)

Mr. Haroon (Admin)

Mr. Bilal Tariq (Production Manager)

Mr. Faisal (MT)

US APPAREL MANAGEMENT

Mr. khurram (HR Manager US Apparel)

Mr. Hanif Khan

We are grateful to our class advisor Mr. KASHIF MUNIR for arranging this project.project.

We always remember the hospitality we received during our stay at the US DENIM.

DENIM. We are privileged to work with experienced personnel, who are the master

master of their skill and field. Their ever supporting behavior, kind advice, and

professional approach taught us how to perform tough and critical tasks with utmost

utmost ease.

We have very much enjoyed being amongst wonderful people. We wish each and

and every one everlasting progress, success and of course wish US DENIM a very

prosperous future.


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T

ABLEOFCONTE

NTSContents

_________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________

U S Denim Introduction . . . . . .. . . . . . .... . ..... .. ... . . . . . . . . . . . .5

History Of Denim. . . . . .. . . . . .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . ... . .6

Types Of Denim.10

Cotton..... . . . . . ..13 Yarn

Manufacturing..... . . . . . .....14

arping .. . . .. . . . . . .. .. 16

Warping in U S Denim...19

Warping Plan...22

Dye in g . .. .. . . . . .

Sulphur Dye.25

Vat Dye...................30

Denim Dyeing.............33

Rope Dyeing...........38

Dyeing in U S Denim..44

ing. .... . . . . . . .. 46

ing... . . . . . .


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Beam..... . . . . ....48

eaving. .. . . . . . . . . .. .

Air-Jet Weaving.... . . . . .

Weaving in U S Denim... . . . . . .........54

Finis hing. . . .. . . . . . .

Sin g e in g .. .................... . ..... 5

Me r c e r iz in g ... .. . . .

St ent er ... ...... 64

Sanf or izing .. . 65

Department.... . . . . ....68

ing. .. . . . . . . . . . .. 70

s.. . .. . . .... 7

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Contents______________________________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________

U S Apparel

Room....75

Department...76

Department...79

Department....80

Types of Stitch..83

He m s ..

Wet processing...93 Chemicals On Denim.98. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . 110 Mechanical Washes. .

.. . ...... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .111 Chemical Washes. . . . . .. . .

. . . . . . . . .. . .... ...119

New Development in Denim Washes. .... . . . . . . .... . . . . . . .129

Trimming..

oning. .. 133

ing. . .. 136


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Finis hing.

. .. 137 Pac k

ing . . 138

Denim..139


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HISTROY OF DENIM:

In fashion history, jeans and denim history continues to baffle. No one truly knows

knows the perfect answer to where jeans began. As so often happens fashions often

often emerge together in various parts of the world and are the result of the sudden

sudden availability of a new fabric, cloth, dye or technique.

But we do know that the phrase denim jeans are thought to derive from several

sources. No one is totally certain where the words come from. A majority of sourcesource books suggest that denim derives from the English translation of the South of

South of France French phrase 'serge de Nmes'. Denim fashion history is thus

associated with Serge de Nimes.

It may well be that the fabric which was made in France also had a version made

locally in England and was called by the same name of denim in the same way that

that Cheddar cheese is called cheddar all over the world. The Serge de Nmes was

was originally a wool silk mix, twill weave. Certainly by the 19th century in England


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England denim had a white warp and a navy woof (weft). Denim was considered a

a hard wearing sturdy fabric, ideal for heavy laboring.

When talking about denim the name Levi s is one of the first to be mentioned. Levi

Levi s

which stands for Levi Strauss is normally called the forefather of jeans.

When tracing back the history of these trousers to its origins it is true that Levi

Strauss played an important role concerning their development and distribution but

but he had also other inventive business partners. Now the question is: who has sewn

sewn the first jeans and where does the history of this blue phenomenon begin?

begin?

Levi Strauss in the year 1860 In 1847, at the age of 17 Levi Strauss left his

Frankonian native country in Germany and emigrated to New York together with his

with his family. The members of the Strauss family were capable and skilful

businessmen and ran a pedlary at that time. So Levi and his brother followed their

their parents footsteps and also became peddlers. When his great gold rush began in

began in 1850, however, he decided to take part and sent over to San Francisco

in California. He took with him a spade, a pick hammer and a bale of fabric out of

of brown sail cloth which was meant to put up a tent. This did not happen, however:however: Levi found out that the gold diggers hard work in the mines made their

their clothes get worn out very quickly and he produced stout working trousers out of

out of the sail cloth he had taken with him which

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he called half overalls. When he continued producing these trousers he used cheap

cheap cotton fabrics coming from Genova. At that time Genova was a flourishing

flourishing place where cotton was exported all over the world. The name of the

town of Genova was modified into jeans in the American slang. At the end of thethe sixties of the 19th century he replaced the brown sail cloth by an indigo-dyed,

dyed, wear resistant cotton fabric coming from France.

The name of this fabric was Serge de Nimes. Serge is the French Expression for

combined twill and Nimes is the French town where the fabric comes from. The

fabric s name Serge de Nimes was quickly turned into Denimin American

colloquial language. By applying this indigo-dyed combined twill the first jeans out

out of Denim was almost born - or better sewn. The only thing missing were the

famous metallic vets. The application of metal rivets for jeans is due to the Polish

Polish emigrant Jacob W. Davis, also called Jacob Youphes. Although the working

working trousers out of Denim were stout they had a tendency to get worn out where

where the pockets were. Jacob Youphes mended the trousers with a needle and

thread. One day a customer inspired him to repair the torn off pockets with the helphelp of rivets. From then on Jacob Youphes made a lot of money out of repairing

trousers. Since he was worried that his invention might be stolen he wanted to apply

apply for a patent.

For doing so, however, he needed a financially strong partner. For that reason he

he addressed the manufacturer of the trousers that he mended, Mr. Levi Strauss. Levi

Strauss. Levi Strauss agreed and together they applied for a patent to strengthen the

strengthen the pockets of the trousers and Levi Strauss acquired a share of 50%. This


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patent was written down in 1873 and can thus be called the true year of birth. Under

the management of Levi Strauss the jeans were now produced in series. Since the

trousers were so stout not only the gold diggers liked them but which is not

surprising in America?The cowboys appreciated them very much, too. When the trousers were applied as

as working trousers for cowboys, however they got worn out at the crotch tip. This

This was no problem for Levi Strauss and Co. since they reinforced the trousersagain with metal rivets at the crossing point of the four seams at the crotch tip. The

The metal rivet at the crotch had to be removed quickly since the way of living of the

of the cowboys had not been taken into consideration. The cowboys used to repair

repair their meals at the campfire and then they spent the rest of the evening sitting

sitting round the campfire. When the cowboy approached the fire too much at night,

night, however he quickly learned the difference between the physical conductivity

conductivity of cotton and metal.

Those wearing these trousers were then suddenly startled out of their sleep. By

knowing very well the need for such a stout garment and thanks to the good

cooperation with Jacob Youphes as well as his very good instinct for marketing Levi

Levi Strauss is still an important brand name in todays textile industry. About 1947

1947 denim made a break-away from work clothing image, chiefly in the area of

sportswear and rainwear and an occasional appearance in high fashion collections as

collections as a "different-looking" evening dress. Jeans fashion history was truly

made in the 1950s when film stars wore it in movies that the teenagers of the day

day followed with avid interest. For many years jeans were only used as work wear

wear clothes, but by the 1940s they were considered leisure wear in America. Once

Once pop and film stars like Elvis Presley, James Dean, and Marlon Brando sported

sported them they became desirable internationally in the 1950s and are associated

associated with rock and roll and pop music. Later in the 1960s, jean brands old and

and new were worn universally in the

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western world. 1970 American youth adopted denim as their favorite fabric. Part of a

Part of a "back to nature" movement that emphasized ecology and the natural denim

denim being a fabric created from a natural fiber was a primary factor. Since 1960

1960 the jeans business has undergone an explosive transformation, from a source of

source of tough, cheap clothing for cowboys, blue-collar workers and penniless

youth into a fashion conscious market for a widening mass of people of almost all

all ages.

Substantial growth in overseas sales of American jeans and denim. Exports of

American- made blue jeans grew. Overseas manufacturers of jeans also grew.Production of indigo dyed denim started in Europe on an industrial level in 1972.

1972. Spreading of jeans fashions in the 1970s and doubling of denim capacity in

in U.S.led to the onslaught of imports. From 1976 to 1979 U.S. imports of denim into

into Europe enjoyed penetration levels between 33% and 42%. European textile

industry saw in denim, an opportunity to restructure itself into a more capital

intensive high technology industry, thus becoming more competitive against imports

from lower-cost countries. From 1972 to 1976 capacities grew from approximately


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20 million square meters to 130 million. All mills were basically running at capacity.

It was a period of worldwide shortage of denim when demand was substantially

greater than capacity. The 1976/7 fashion element subsided in Europe and U.S.

Return to specialist jean manufacturer producing basic jeans, with relative little

fashion styling. The introduction of "baggy" jeans originated in Italy where

previous shortage led to youth wearing any size jeans available. Since 1978

specialized denim manufacturers re established positions mainly in terms of quality.Indigo denim first produced at Yarraville during 1965 on a narrow width Slasher

dyeing machine designed and built on the area. This dyeing method has now been

been entirely replaced by the commissioning of the Morrison Rope Dyeing Machine

Machine on July 4th, 1980. Dyeing capacity 15 to 16,000,000 square meters of denim

denim per annum are possible on this new Morrison dyeing Machine. By the 1980s

1980s ripped, frayed and torn jeans were a normal sight. Colored jeans from white

white through to pastels were also popular as were stonewashed blue jeans. In the

the 80s, designer jeans with names like Gloria Vanderbilt, Calvin Klein and Armani

Armani among so many fashion designers became the designer label jeans to be seen

seen in. Stone washed jeans became a must.

By the 1990s black jeans were very popular for a while and jeans in general were

were seen a lot in the early 1990s. But shades of blue are always loved and

sometimes the darkest shade is high fashion and sometimes the most washed out

out faded pairs become the hottest. Colored jeans of all shades made an appearance.

appearance.

In 2000 designers were crystal beading and silver or gold spraying jeans amid tears,

tears, frayed slashes, and fur and feather decoration. Denim was hot yet again and

and used to make everything from footwear, jackets, bags, basque corsets to jeweled

jeweled cuffs.


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TYPES OF DENIM

While the original denim was a 100% cotton serge material, you can now get it in a

in a variety of materials, including blends that give you the same wonderful look of

of 100% cotton denim with some great additional features. Denims unique look

comes from the rich indigo blue in one shade or another woven together with white

white threads to give the depth that people associate with denim. Today, some

some denims no longer have indigo, but other colors with the white opposing

threads, producing denims in a rainbow of shades.

Dry denim

Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after

washed after being dyed during its production. Most denim is washed after being crafted

being crafted into an article of clothing in order to make it softer and to eliminate any

eliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item to not fit after the owner washes it. In


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addition to being washed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificially "distressed" to achieve

a worn-in look. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric

will fade in a manner similar to factory distressed denim. With dry denim, however, such

fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their

daily life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a more natural, unique look than

pre-distressed denim. To facilitate the natural distressing process, some wearers of dry

denim will often abstain from washing their jeans for more than six months,[3]though it is not a necessity for fading. Predominantly found in premium denim lines, dry

lines, dry denim

represents a small niche in the overall market

dry denim can be identified by its lack wash, or fade.it tipically start out as the

dark blue color picture here.

Selvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type of denim which forms a

clean natural edge that does not unravel. It is commonly presented in the

unwashed or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be located along the

outseam of the pants, making it visible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage

denim is not completely synonymous with unwashed denim, the presence of

selvage typically implies that the denim used is a higher quality. The word

"selvage" comes from the phrase "self-edge" and denotes denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These looms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread

(the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way down the length of the bolt.

As the weft loops back into the edge of the denim it creates this self-edge or

Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge cant fray like lower grade

denims that have.

separate wefts which leave an open edge that must be stitched. Shuttle looming

is a more time-consuming weaving process that produces denim of a tighter

weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts. Shuttle looms weave a

more narrow piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to

make a pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize yield, traditional jean

makers use the fabric all the way to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turnedup the two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn together, can be seen. The

selvage edge is usually stiched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow,

and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate

between fabrics.

Most selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic indigo, but natural indigo

is available in smaller niche denim labels. Loop dying machines feed a rope of

cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back out. The dye is allowed

oxidize before the next dip. Multiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue. In

response to increased demand for jeans in the 1950's, American denim

manufacturers replaced the old shuttle style looms with modern projectile

looms. The new looms produced fabric faster and wider (60- inches or wider),

yet lighter and less durable. Synthetic dyeing techniques along with post-dye

treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist. Raw selvage is

that has not been washed once undergoing the dying process. It is especially

desirable because the material will fade in the creases and folds of the jeans.

This process is known as whiskering.

Here are some of the newer types of denim on the market.

Denim Washing Process

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