Denim Fading Made Flexible
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Transcript of Denim Fading Made Flexible
November 2011
Page 2
Impact of lots of people
7 Billion people in 2011 / 9 billion people by 2050 Our dependency on many current production methods comes at a huge and unsustainable
economic, environmental, and social cost.
Feeding, clothing, and providing shelter for everyone does not come free. Everything has a cost.
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V a l u e C h a i n
Farm Consumer
Auxiliary
Chemicals
Textile Mill
Contractor Brands / Retailers
Auxiliary
Chemicals
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Agenda
Presentation
PrimaGreen® collections
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®
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Flexible Fading effects with PrimaGreen® EcoLight 1
Starting from
Sulphur black
A B C D
E F G H
I G K L
®
®
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•
less
•
•
potassium permanganate spray
®
desizing enzymatic
stonewashing fading
Genencor® Cool DS
Optisize®
Genencor® Neutra Star
Primafast® GOLD PrimaGreen® EcoFade LT100
/EcoLight 1
Single bath
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•
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Benefit to brand
house/retailer
Feature Benefit to processor
Claim lower water use Single bath system Decrease water consumption
Potential for lower carbon footprint Low processing temperature Decrease energy consumption &
CO2 emissions
1.Create flexible fading effects on
one substrate
2. Reduce the number of substrates
required to get varied wash effects
Color modification of indigo &
sulphur dyestuff
Differentiated and varied casts
compared to the chemical
treatment
Improve quality and consistency
Controlled shade adjustment Lower material rejection compared
with chemical bleach
Controllable and reproducible
process
Reduce the variation batch on
batch
Increase care for people Neutral pH and biodegradable Gentle & safe processing
conditions
No damage to LYCRA® elastane
fiber containing denim when
compared to chemical bleaching
processes
No strength loss Reduce the risk of fabric damage
®
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drop &
refill
drop &
refill
drop &
refill
drop &
refill
Chlorite
bleach
drop &
refill
50oC 10 min
Cellulase
wash
60oC 15 min
Desize
40oC 30 min 50oC 10 min
Neutralize
60oC 7 min
Rinse
Cellulase
wash
40oC 30 min
EcoFade
fade
20-40oC 20-60 min 60oC 7 min
Rinse 60oC 15 min
Desize
drop &
refill drop &
refill drop &
refill
Traditional chemical
bleaching
Enzymatic one bath
fading
One bath
Desizing+Abrasion 50oC, 6’ 50oC, 10’ 50oC, 13’
A B C D
A B C D
Chlorite
bleaching
EcoFade
fading
Desizing+Abrasion 35oC, 20’ 35oC, 40’ 35oC, 60’
The same fabric
drop
&
refill
drop
&
refill
drop
&
refill
®
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60oC 15 min Desize Enzymatic fade
60oC 30-60 min 60oC 5 min Rinse
Desizing+abrasion 45’ 20’ 70oC 30’ 70oC, 36’ 70oC
A B C D
A1 B1 C1 D1
Peroxide
bleaching
EcoLight
fading
Desizing 30’ 60oC 60’ 60oC 90’ 60oC
(drop bath after 60mins,
re-dose and wash extra 30mins)
60oC 5 min Cellulase
wash
drop
&
refill
70oC 20-40min 60oC 15 min
Desize
50oC 30 min H2O2 bleach
Rinse
drop
&
refill
drop
&
refill
drop
&
refill
Traditional peroxide
bleaching
Enzymatic fading
On the same fabric
27% 39%
8%
-5%
5%
15%
25%
35%
45%
Water Steam Time
EcoLight process savings (C1
fading level) vs. peroxide
bleaching (D bleaching level)
PrimaGreen®
EcoLight 1
®
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A
E
H
Desized
NeutraStar 40’ NeutraStar 40’
EcoFade 30’
NeutraStar 40’
EcoFade 60’
NeutraStar 40’
EcoFade 60’
EcoLight 60’
EcoLight 60’
Sulphur/Indigo
dyed fabric
EcoLight 60’
NeutraStar 40’
EcoFade 30’
EcoLight 60’
NeutraStar 40’
EcoFade 60’
B C D
F G
Genencor ® Neutra Star: a cellulase for abrasion
PrimaGreen ® EcoFade LT100: a laccase for fading Indigo dyestuff
PrimaGreen ® EcoLight 1: a esterase for fading Sulphur dyestuff
Changing the
process/recipe
to achieve your
desired effects
Flexible Fading with the combination of EcoFade/EcoLight
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®
®
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Peroxide bleaching PrimaGreen® EcoLight 1 fading
Chemicals 2.0 g/l amylase
2.0 g/l wetting agent
2.0 g/l anti backstaining agent
0.5 g/l Genencor Neutral
Finish
1.0 g/l anti backstaining agent
2.0 g/l caustic soda
3.0 g/l hydrogen peroxide30%
2.0 g/l dispersing agent
USD 0.07 /
kg garment
2.0 g/l amylase
2.0 g/l wetting agent
2.0 g/l anti backstaining agent
3.0 g/l hydrogen peroxide 30%
5.0 g/l DSP
2.0 g/l Triacetin
1.0 g/l PrimaGreen EcoLight
2.0 g/l dispersing agent
USD 0.24 /
kg garment
Energy 60 oC, 15 min (desizing)
40 oC, 30 min (abrasion)
70 oC, 40 min (fading)
USD 0.58 /
kg garment
60 oC, 15min (desizing)
60 oC, 60 min (fading)
USD 0.35 /
kg garment
Water 3 baths of process water
5 baths of rinsing water
USD 0.07 /
kg garment
2 baths of process water
2 baths of rinsing water
USD 0.03 /
kg garment
Total cost USD 0.72 / kg garment USD 0.62 / kg garment
14 % total cost savings with EcoLight process: USD 5.11 / 100 garments!
®
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Sulphur/Indigo dyed fabric
Man wear
Pure Sulphur
Man wear
Pure Indigo
Man wear
Sulphur/Indigo dyed fabric
Women Stretch
Thank you! www.primagreen.org
Enzymes are the future for environmentally-friendly textile processing.
However, it needs all of us to work together to develop and implement these
efficient and greener applications effectively.
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®