Defender Buyers Guide

Land RoverDefender (1948 - Present)

'V5' Log book and 'VIN'

Does the 'V5' log book look like the pictures below?

Sections: 1. Registered keeper 2. Previous keeper 3. Special notes 4. Vehicle details 5. Registered keeper 6. New keeper 7. Vehicle changes 8. Declaration 9. Trade sale 10. New keeper supplement 11. Export.

Is the seller’s name and address the same as the name and address in the 'V5' log book? If not, ask why not, and decide if you trust the

answer.

Check everything on the log book is spelt correctly and there have been no alterations made to the document. If you are in doubt about

whether a log book is genuine, call the DVLA helpline on 0870 241 1878.

Does the vehicle identification number (VIN) plate on the car match the number on the V5? The VIN plate can be in several places (The

car hand book should tell you where it is, but usually it is under the bonnet, on the windscreen or near the driver’s door or seat. Example pictures

below).

Service book

Has the service book been regularly stamped?

Do the stamps match the MOT and any receipts?

Are key service details listed? For example, cam belt changes - see model specific checks for the key service issues on this car.

Data Check ('HPI check')

Data (or HPI) checks tell you whether a car has any outstanding finance, been declared a write-off or been stolen. It is essential that you have

your own check done, to ensure:

The car is not owed to a finance company

The car has not been written-off

The car is not stolen

The VIN number on the car matches the one the data check provides

Evolutions of Land Rover Defender (1948 - Present):Year Change or development

1948 Series I 80", 86", 88"/107", 109"

1958 Series II 88"/109

1961 Series IIA 88"/109"

1968 Lightweight 88"

1971 Series III 88"/109"

1983 90/110 new models included refinements such as coil springs, a wider track, 5 speed gearbox, constant 4WD, updated

interior, as well as power steering as an option.

1990 Defender. PETROL - 2¼ (Early models only), 2.5, and 3.5 litre. DIESEL - 2¼ (Early models only), 2.5 (1984 to 1986), 2.5

T/D (1986 to 1990), 2.5 Tdi 200 series (1990 to 1994) 2.5 Tdi 300 series (1994 to 1998), TD5 (1998 onwards).

Bodywork Checks

Standard checks to make on all cars:Is bodywork free from dents, scratches or other marks? Squat down on your haunches and look along the sides of the car to check for

dents. Ripples, small craters or swirly scratches in the paintwork indicate it has been given a quick top coat re-spray.

Pull back rubber seals and lift door handles right up. Are the colours the same (but less faded)? If the colour under the rubber looks older

than the rest or if there is a build up of paint where there has been an overspray it has been repaired. This tells you the car has been involved in

some kind of accident, but it may be minor. You only need to worry if it looks like the car may have been in a major accident (see other checks

below).

Do both bumpers and all the car’s panel colours match? Are all the gaps between panels (known as shut lines) consistent and evenly

spaced? Any big gaps may mean the car has had a poor quality repair after a fairly major accident.

Look at the number plates and the reflective mirrors in the back of headlights. Do they all match? If one headlight is darker than the other

or the number plates don’t match, it may have been in an accident

Open the boot and bonnet. Does all the metal look the same colour? Different colours tell you there have been major bodywork repairs.

Is the windscreen free from major cracks or chips?

Are all the locks the same? If not, ask why not. Changed locks can mean the car was stolen or broken into.

Paint Work. Never see cars in the rain or twilight as either condition makes it harder to sport defects.

If paintwork has white marks that rub off with a light rub, it is probably old polish that hasn’t been removed. Whilst it looks bad, it is a good sign;

the car will usually clean up well.

Is there any rust on the car? Look at all the bodywork, along the sills, under the bonnet and in the boot. Significant rust is to be avoided.

This picture shows a sill being squeezed to ensure it is solid and not rusting.

Squeezing the sill all the way from the front to the back will confirm whether the sill is suffering from corrosion.

Specific Bodywork Checks for Land Rover Defender (1948 - Present):

Area What to look for What it means What to do

Rear cross-

member

Look below the rear

towing point and follow

the metal cross-member

along the bottom of the

car with your hand.

Check for signs of rust

either with your hand or

by brushing the metal

with another blunt piece

of metal (e.g. a

screwdriver). Listen for

a change in the noise (a

dink, ding noise) and

look for flaking metal.

If the rear cross-

member is rusty it will

need to be replaced.

Negotiate a £600 - £700 discount or have the repair completed.

Vent panels Inspect the vent panels

around the bulkhead

(under the windscreen

and above the bonnet)

for rust.

If caught early (i.e.

minor spots of rust) this

can be repaired. If the

rust is significant, the

bulkhead needs

replacing.

Negotiate a £25 discount for minor rust or budget £500 for a new

bulkhead. Alternatively have the repair completed.

Door hinges Inspect the door hinges

and surrounding metal

work closely. Tap the

body work to ensure it

all feels and sounds the

same. If there are

patches where the

tapping sounds or feels

different, there may be

filler hiding rust.

The rust needs to be cut

out and the body work

repaired.

The extent of the rust will determine the cost of repair. A rule of thumb

is £100 per small spot of rust.

C-section Look under the rear

wheel arches (knocking

any built up mud away)

for a triangle of metal at

the back of the arch.

Look for rust around

that area.

If there is rust in that

area, the c-section will

need to be replaced.

Negotiate a £350 discount or have the repair completed.

Bulkhead Inspect the bottom of

the bulkhead (the part of

the body between the

engine bay and chassis)

for rust.

If the rust is severe, the

bulkhead will need

replacing. If the rust is

contained, it can be cut

out and the body

repaired.

Negotiate a £200 discount for minor rust and £1,000 if you believe a

new bulk head will be needed. Alternatively, have the repair completed.

Diesel tank

outrigger

Look under the car, to

the right of the offside

rear wheel arch for the

fuel tank. There are

square pieces of

chassis that jut out

(outriggers). Check

these for rust.

If these are rusting, they

need replacing and the

fuel tank will have to be

removed.

Negotiate £410 discount or have the repair completed.

Bump stops When looking under the

rear of the car, look at

the axle, just behind the

wheel arch. Look for two

large rubber blocks (one

on each side). Check

that they are not

cracked or perished.

If the bump stops are

cracked or perished

they need to be

replaced.


Engine ChecksStandard checks to make on all cars:Is the exhaust smoke-free on start-up? A small amount of white smoke on cold or damp days is fine. Any blue smoke or excessive smoke

means there is problem with the engine.

Is the exhaust completely smoke-free once the engine is fully warmed up? If not, there is a problem with the engine.

Is there plenty of clean oil? If the oil is black rather than golden brown it needs to be changed and suggests the car has not been recently

serviced.

A dipstick is pulled out to check the oil. Oil should be golden-brown & over half full.

A main oil cap is unscrewed from the top of an engine. This cap looks as it should, with just oil on the inside and no white creamy residues.

Is there plenty of water and anti-freeze in the radiator reservoir? Anti-freeze stops the engine freezing and rusting.

Are there any signs of any leaks? Leaks must be identified and repaired quickly to prevent further engine damage.

A radiator in good condition (all the fins are clean, strong and complete). The fat top rubber hose should feel bouncy. If it is very soft and floppy or rock solid when the engine is running then the head gasket may be failing. NB Use heat-protective gloves.

Radiator is by the yellow dot on the right and the reservoir, by the left dot.

Do all the belts and hoses look strong and free from frays, cracks or tears? If not they may be close to failure which can have serious

knock-on effects.

Where the model-speciifc checks recommend checking spark plugs, they will look similar to these:

Covered by leads. Lead pulled off. In socket.

If the model-specific checks need you to look for brake fluid or steering fluid reservoirs, they will look like these:

Oil leaks, (where the oil is clinging to the underside of the car) will look like these:

Specific Engine Checks for Land Rover Defender (1948 - Present):Area What to look for What it means What to do

Oil leaks Leave the car standing

for 10 -15 minutes, then

check for drops of oil on

the floor under the car.

Also check the engine

block itself for weeping

or dripping oil.

Experienced buyers

may want to clean the

oil off the engine and

drive round the block to

see if it reappears.

Common oil leaks come

from blocked breathers

forcing oil out the front

wading plug hole. Fixing

this requires the engine

to come out.


Cam belt The following engines

have cam belts: 2.5, 2.5

td, 300 tdi. Check the

paperwork to see if the

cam belt has been

changed on schedule.

On most of these

engines the cam belt

must be changed within

5 years or 60,000 miles

(some 2.0l can go to

72,000).

If the cam belt and

associated parts (such

as the tensioner) have

not been changed, and

the mileage is over

these boundaries, the

cam belt is likely to fail

soon. Usually the

engine has to be

replaced or at least re-

built after a cam belt

failure.

Ensure that the cam belt is changed before the car is driven anywhere

if it is coming close to its interval. Changing the belt will cost £420.

300 Tdi Engine

Head Gasket

Open the bonnet and

look at the left hand side

of the engine.

Approximately 2/3 of the

way back, there is a

piece of metal jutting out

from the side of the

engine (where the head

bolts to the main engine

block). This will have up

An engine with only two

holes has had a number

of problems with its

head gasket.

Budget £700 for a head gasket.

to 4 holes in it. Each

time the head gasket is

blown and repaired, one

hole is used up. If there

are 2 holes left, you can

only repair the head

gasket once more.

V8 Engine Look for the water

reservoir connected to

the radiator at the front

of the engine bay. You

should be able to see

red, green or blue fluid

in the reservoir. It

should not be brown.

Brown water means

there is no longer any

anti-freeze, which

means the head gasket

is more likely to fail. The

anti-freeze needs

replacing urgently.

Have the car inspected by an expert. Budget £50 for an antifreeze

change and £550 if the head gasket is damaged.

Head gasket Open the oil filler cap on

the top of the engine

and check to see if

there are any white

creamy substances on

the inside of the cap.

Check the water

reservoir (connected to

the radiator at the front

of the engine bay) for

deposits of oil (grey

sludge) floating on the

top of the water.

These symptoms mean

you need a new head

gasket. The head

gasket has failed

because of water leaks

and the engine

overheating (see

cooling system check).


Cooling system Under the bonnet, look

for a reservoir of water

connected to the

radiator at the front of

the engine. If the engine

is cold, open the top

and check that the level

is between the minimum

and maximum markers.

If the engine is hot, do

NOT open the top as

you will burn yourself.

Instead push down on

the car wing to make

the car bounce. Look at

the water as it moves in

the reservoir to check its

level.

Do not look at the side

of the reservoir and

think that the dirty mark

left by old water is the

current level; use the

checks to the left. If the

water is below the

minimum the car is

likely to have a leak and

will overheat.

Check the car for leaks and head gasket failure before buying. Do not

drive the car if it begins to overheat. Watch the temperature gauge very

carefully.

Interior ChecksStandard checks to make on all cars:Do all the controls and electronics work? Check: heating controls (both hot and cold), radio, windscreen wipers, all windows and sunroof,

central locking and alarm.

Do all the lights (inside and out) work?

Where the model-speciifc checks recommend checking engine management lights, they will look similar to these:

Engine Management

Handbrake

ABS

Oil Airbag Battery

Specific Interior Checks for Land Rover Defender (1948 - Present):Area What to look for What it means What to do

Bulkhead

outrigger

Lift out any carpets or

mats from the front

footwell and inspect the

metal work for rust. Also

look around the side of

the car and under the

footwell and A-post for

rust. Pay particular

attention to the area

around a large bolt

under the footwell.

Rust in this area will

need to be cut away

and repaired.

The extent of the rust will determine the cost. Have an expert examine

the car.

Gearbox input

drive

As you let the clutch

pedal up, to pull away,

listen for and feel for

backlash at the rear of

the car (a thumping

sensation and a dunk,

dunk, dunk noise).

The input drive and

gearbox need

overhauling.

Negotiate a £1,200 discount or have the repair completed.

Clutch Test-drive more than

one Defender to

establish how the clutch

should feel. Does this

clutch feel heavy?

This is an early warning

sign that the clutch

needs replacing.

Budget £400 to change the clutch. If the clutch is heavy you may want

to try and negotiate a percentage of this as a discount.

Gear lever Check that the gear

lever goes straight into

each gear without any

crunching or difficulty.

The gearbox needs to

be re-conditioned and it

is more cost-effective to

change the clutch at the

Negotiate a £1,200 discount or have the repair completed.

same time.

Water leaks Look around the

windscreen and in the

roof lining for signs of

water damage or leaks.

All Defenders develop

leaks in this area. They

can be rectified with

silicone sealant.

Negotiate a £100 discount for any leaks, or have them repaired.

Specific Suspension Checks for Land Rover Defender (1948 - Present):Area What to look for What it means What to do

Hub oil seals Inspect both the inside

and outside of the tyres,

in the middle of the

wheels for grease and

oil leaks.

If there is oil or grease

on the inside of the

wheel, the car needs a

new hub seal and brake

pads. If the leak is on

the outside, the car

needs a hub and drive

flange gasket.

Negotiate a £100 discount for inside leaks and a ££28 discount for

outside leaks or have the repair completed.

Wheel bearings During the test drive,

listen for a

droning/rumbling noise

from the wheels.

The droning/rumbling

noise indicates that a

wheel bearing needs

replacing.


Suspension arms Drive the car on a good

flat surface and test the

steering's accuracy. If it

feels wobbly and vague

rather than stiff and

accurate, or oversteers

(e.g. a slight steering

change leads to the car

aggressively changing

direction) the

suspension arms need

attention.

If the car oversteers, the

rear suspension arms

are likely to need

replacing. If the steering

is vague and wobbly,

the front arms are likely

to need replacing. It is

best to have both done

at once, and have the

bushes upgraded to

poly bushes.

Negotiate a £140 discount (for front and back) or have the repair

completed.

Swivel joints There is a big chrome

ball on each side of the

axle. Ask the seller if

they have ever been

fitted with one shot

grease.

Rather than continually

changing the

conventional oil, if one

shot grease is fitted,

they never need

attention again.

Budget £25 per joint.

Shock absorbers Look under the wheel

arch at the shock

absorbers. Look at the

rubbers on the shock

absorber and check

them for cracks.

If cracked or perished

they need replacing.

negotiate a £5 discount or have the repair completed.

Recall History of Land Rover Defender (1948 - Present):Date Model Recall

22 Jun 1993 Built: 04/01/1993 -

15/01/1993

A specific batch of inner tubes supplied as original equipment has been found to exhibit small

perforations. In the worst case this could lead to deflation of the tyre (s). VINs: LD925367 to

LD92591.

05 Jun 2000 Td5 diesels built:

01/09/1998 -

30/06/1999

As a consequence of the manufacturing process, the engine flywheel may develop surface cracks

which, under certain high load conditions can propagate, resulting in disintegration of the

flywheel. VINs: XA145775 to XA181042 (Defender), XA200000 to XA244647 (Discovery),

XA900000 to XA907209 (Discovery).

22 Apr 2002 Land Rover has received a small number of reports that detail a potential abrasion condition

between the front left hand flexible brake hose and tyre. In extreme circumstances, dependant

upon the position of the hose, the front left hand tyre can contact the hose and cause abrasion to

the outer lining material which could result in a brake fluid leak. VINs: XA159961 to 1A61705.

31 Mar 2004 Defender (with ABS

fitted) built: 01/10/1998 -

01/12/2003

A potential fluid leak from the brake modulator may result in a reduction in the efficiency of the

service brake or, in the worst case, complete failure of the service brake system. VINs: XA900016

and XA201612 to XA907213 and YA846241 and XA162896 and YA600000 to YA199999 and

YA671407.

Defender Buyers Guide

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