December 2012 #130

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

On The Cover:Tran Trong ToanVietnamese Ambassador for Korea

Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No FearA Chat with the Film’s Director

Hold On Tight!Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing

December 2012Issue No. 130

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM

Gwangju News December 20122

Advertise with Gwangju News!Gwangju News is the longest-running English magazine in Korea. Its print andonline versions bring Gwangju to the world.

Target your customers by advertising with us. Gwangju News Print and Onlinereceive more than 30,000 readership in just six months!

Contact us for more details: 062-226-2733 or e-mail us to [email protected]

Volunteers needed!Gwangju News is looking for enthusiastic individuals who would like to join themagazine.

Currently we are looking for these positions: Chief Proofreaders, Proofreaders and In-house Photographers

If interested, please contact us for more details: [email protected]

SSuuppppoorrtt GGwwaannggjjuu NNeewwss!!

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM

Gwangju News December 2012 3

THE EDITORIAL TEAM

Gwangju News is a monthly English magazine written and editedby volunteers. We welcome your contributions for proofreading,copy editing, administration, layout/design and distribution. Pleasewrite to [email protected] and tell us your area of interest.

Special thanks to the City of Gwangju andall of our sponsors.

Copyright by the Gwangju International Center.All rights reserved. No part of this publicationcovered by this copyright may be reproduced inany form or by any means - graphic, electronic,mechanical, photocopying, recording orotherwise - without the written consent of thepublishers.

Gwangju News welcomes letters to the editor([email protected]) regarding articles andissues. Articles and submissions may be edited forreasons of clarity or space.

Publisher: Shin Gyonggu

GWANGJU NEWS PRINTEditors: Kathleen Villadiego, Kim Minsu Assistant Editor: Stephen RedekerCreative Consultant: Warren ParsonsCopy Editors: Darren Bean, Vanessa Cisneros, Heather Douglas,Michael Moak, Jon Ozelton, Bradley WeissCoordinators: Karina Prananto, Jung JayeonLayout Designer: Karina PranantoPhoto Editor: Matt FurlaneProofreaders: Megan Batal, Gian-Marco Bussandri, Erin Hamayda,Jon Ozelton, Samantha Richter, Eva Ryan, Pete Schandall, AndrewSweeney. Special thanks to Jessica KeralisResearchers: Kang Heera, Choi Minyoung, Jo Ara, Park Soyoung

GWANGJU NEWS ONLINEEditor: Maeve StoreyTechnical Manager: Carl HedingerAssistant Site Administrator: Nathan FulkersonArts Editor: Andrea EdwardsFeatures Editors: BreeAnn Cowger, C. Adam VolleMedia Editor: David CowgerFood Editor: Rani CheemaTravel Editor: BreeAnn Cowger

Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International CenterAddress: Jeon-il Building 5F, Geumnam-ro 1-1,

Dong-gu, Gwangju 501-758, South KoreaPhone: +82-62-226-2733~4

Fax: +82-62-226-2731Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com

E-mail: [email protected] No.: 광주광역시라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315)

Registration Date: February 22, 2010Printed by Logos (Phone +82-62-444-8800)

Publication Date: November 28, 2012

December 2012

Cover Photo: Tran Trong ToanPhotographer: Christian Oey

www.gwangjunewsgic.com ON THE COVER

CORRECTIONS

On November 2012 issue page 24-25, the photos weretaken by Jannies Le.

The publication date of November 2012 issue was onOctober 26, 2012

Good Afternoon, VietnamBy C. Adam VolleAmbassador Tran was invited toGwangju to share his ideas andviews on relationships betweenVietnam and Korea.

Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of NoFear By Rachel RedfernThe film Aung San Suu Kyi: Ladyof No Fear attracted world-wide attention at this year’sGwangju International FilmFestival. Read the interview withthe film’s director Anne GyritheBonne, on the reason why shemade it.

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Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM

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contentscommunity

food and drink

travel

health

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Revitalize at Damyang Spa/Doug Stuber

A History and Use of Ondol:Korea’s Traditional HeatingSystem/ Andrew Sweeney

Squat, Don’t Sit/ Kristal Lee

Gyeongju: a Mini Break tothe Shilla Kingdom/ AndreaEdwards

GIC Tour Annual Review/Warren Parsons

Angkor: Jewel in the Crownof Cambodia/ CarlHedinger

Tequilaz MexicanRestaurant: The perfectplace to start a Saturdaynight/ Andrew Sweeney

Taisho/ Gabriel Ward

Sautéed Squid with HotPepper Paste/ Jo Ara

Adopt a Child for Christmas2012/ Daniel Lister

Gwangju Indoor RockClimbing/ Shay Meinecke

Browsing Through AladinBookstore/ Gabriel Ward

Wonder Place/ Lee Hyemin


Local NewsThis Month inGwangjuBy Carl Hedinger

Upcoming Events

Photo EssayMunsusaBy Doug Stuber

Home Pages

Language StudyFor Your ELT BookshelfBy Dr. Dave Shaffer

LiteratureSelected Poems byMoon In-sooTranslated by SongChae-Pyong andAnne Rashid

LiteratureA Very ShortCollection of PoetryBy Ashe Middleton

FashionFash-on with xxl jjdp: My Favorite FallThingsBy jjdp

CultureKorean Ghost:Fishin’ for GwishinBy Stephen Redeker

Community Board

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6 Gwangju News December 2012

EditorialIt's the end of yet another year, a time when many look back, reflect, and perhaps consider what they canbe grateful for. There are a number of things on my list, and as the Gwangju News (GN) Editor, I'm verygrateful to all our volunteers, the coordinators at the GIC and for the support of our readers.

I'm thankful to all the writers and poets who have allowed us to be the platform through which they can keepour readers informed, share their experiences and express their creativity. I'm amazed by our new team ofhighly dedicated copy-editors and our growing list of reliable proofreaders many of whom have been with usfor a long time and are irreplaceable. Darren Bean, who I consider our head copy-editor, has revolutionizedour style guide and has been the driving force for better standards.

It's not just the words that make up our magazine. I'm grateful to all the photographers for providing us withsome very awe-inspiring images, and to our outgoing judge, Mark Eaton for his careful selections. Muchappreciation goes to Matt Furlane, our new photo editor who has seamlessly stepped into his role.

I'd also like to thank our creative director, Warren Parsons, for steering us toward new heights, and ourassistant editor, Stephen Redeker for keeping us strong and steady.

Although our coordinators work for the GIC, they dedicate so much time supporting all of us who volunteerfor GN. Jung Jayeon's enthusiasm for the magazine is happily infectious. Karina Prananto, who also does ourlayout and design, is the reason why people say GN looks so professional. Karina has always been, andforever will be, integral to the magazine. None of this is possible without the continual support of our publisher,Dr. Shin and his pearls of wisdom.

It's not always smooth sailing, and we do at times make mistakes. However, the need to learn and do better doesn'tgo away. We at GN hope we can continue to deliver a magazine that you want to pick up, read and enjoy.

Thank you, Kathleen Villadiego

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A brief roundup of news stories from in and around Gwangju

By Carl Hedinger

The Concerts at Pungam Lake Close for WinterThe final curtain came down on the Pungam LakeConcerts for 2012 at the beginning of last month(November 3). Seo-gu's District Office put on theseconcerts to provide local residents with a nicebackdrop to the relaxing atmosphere at the lake everySaturday starting in April. To keep up an eclectic mix,25 different groups have represented pop, dancemusic, Korean traditional percussion music andinstrumental ensembles throughout the year. Anaverage crowd of 500 came to each show with a totalof 13,000 people enjoying the entire series this year.Due to increased participation from residents, artistsand members of amateur clubs, 13 extra concertswere held on weekdays this year. This series was theonly one held every Saturday in Gwangju andcontributed to a rebirth of local music and satisfied theresidents' growing demand for a cultural outlet.According to one Seo-gu official, “These smallconcerts present the joy of becoming one with nature.Because this year's concerts were so popular, themusic will continue in 2013.” For those interested inplaying next year, contact Seo-gu Office Culture andSports Division at 062-360-7596 for more details.

Mt. Mudeung Yellow Bus Goes into HibernationThe City announced the suspension of the Yellow Busthat runs around Mt. Mudeung at the end of November.It will resume service in March 2013 but has stoppedservice for the upcoming winter. At the announcementcity officials cited the risks of accidents during the winterand low demand as reason to suspend winter service.Service will resume in March. When it picks back up thebus will run every weekend starting from GwangjuStation. Notable stops along the way are Chungjangsa,Soswaewon and Jeungsimsa. In all, there are 23 stopsand it takes 2 1/2 hours at a cost of 2,000 won. A tourguide also tags along for the ride to providecommentary (Korean) with folktales, history and hikingroutes of Mt. Mudeung.

This Month in Gwangju

Free Library in Pungam Lake Open for Business Our next story takes us back to Pungam Lake, wherethe Seogu District Office has announced that anunsupervised library has opened for residents. This willserve as the only library of its kind in Gwangju and issaid to be available year-round for everyone. Thislibrary contains around 300 titles including children'sbooks, essays, novels, etc. Seo-gu is taking donationsfrom residents to help promote the materialsavailable at the library and to spread the culture ofsharing. Donations can be made through Seo-guOffice Culture Sports Division or the Eco-LearningLibrary. Another way is to personally add to the list ofdonations by simply leaving books at the library. ASeo-gu official said that he “hopes residents will usethis library and make it a precious place wherepeople can meet through books.” Buses no. 45, 47,59, 71, 75, 78 go to Pungam Reservoir (풍암저수지).

International Astronomy Olympiad 2012, Korea WinsFirst PlaceThe 17th International Astronomy Olympiad was held at theHonam Small Business Training Institute and Korea took firstprize with three gold, one silver, and two bronze medalswith all representative students receiving prizes. In this year'stournament 93 students from 22 countries took part, andafter the final medal tally, Russia finished second andRomania came in third place respectively. The tournamenttook place over nine days and included competitions intheory, observation, and other work related to astronomy.There were also a variety of programs that introducedKorean culture and industry to foreign students andspectators. Astronomy figures from around the globe –along with Korean experts – took part as judges and thisrendition of the Olympiad made the fifth time that Koreatook first prize. The country has participated since the 8thOlympiad in Sweden. 2013's version of the InternationalAstronomy Olympiad will take place in Lithuania and thecompetition is set to begin on September 5.

Photo courtesy of Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall

Photo courtesy of Seo-gu Office, Gwangju Metropolitan City

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM


Upcoming Events

Modern Family 가가족족시시네네마마Genre: DramaDirectors: Shin Su-won, Hong Ji-young, Lee Su-yeonStarring: Jung In-gi, Kim Ji-young, Sun Woo-sunLanguage: KoreanSynopsis:This film is made up of four storylines.Circle Line – A man loses his job out of the blue and hiswife is in her second pregnancy. One day he rides thesubway all day to kill time and comes across a womanbegging for money to help her baby.Star Shaped Stain – A couple loses their daughter in a fireaccident at the kindergarten camp. A year later, sheseems to be alive.E.D. 571 – Gold Miss Kim is attacked by an egg shedonated 12 years ago to receive university tuition.In Good Company – A woman is at risk of unfair dismissalfrom work because of her pregnancy. Her selfish co-workers are only trying to see how things go.

Namyeong-dong 1985 남남 동동 11998855Genre: DramaDirector: Jung Ji-youngStarring: Park Won-sang, Lee Gyeong-yeongLanguage: KoreanSynopsis: On the 4th of September 1985 when militarydictatorship was in full swing, a pro-democracy activist,Jong-tae Kim, is taken somewhere. As he was often takento the police station before, he thinks it is no big deal buthe is taken somewhere by a strange man. From then on,he is tortured and forced to make a false statement. Herefuses to do so in spite of the cruel torture. However, as thetorturer Du-han Lee a.k.a. 'Undertaker' appears, a merciless22 days that will change his life completely begin.

Amour 아아무무르르Genre: DramaDirector: Michael HanekeStarring: Jean-Louis Trintignant, Emmanuelle RivaLanguage: FrenchSynopsis: Georges and Anne are a musician couple intheir eighties. One day, Anne has a stroke whichparalyzes one arm and Georges nurses her devotedly.However, their bond of love is tested.

Dupa Dealuri (Beyond the Hills) 신신의의 소소녀녀들들Genre: DramaDirector: Cristian MungiuStarring: Cosmina Stratan, Cristina FluturLanguage: Romanian

Contributors: Kang Heera, Choi Minyoung, Jo Ara, Park Soyoung (GIC Gwangju News Team)

Movie @ Gwangju TheaterMovie @ Gwangju TheaterChungjang-no 5-ga (two blocks back behind Migliore)Phone : 062-224-5858Films change weekly to bi-weeklyFee : 8,000 won per person per filmCheck online for calendar and prices: (in Korean)http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju

Synopsis: Alina and Voichita grew up in an orphanage.Alina, who left for Germany, came back to Romania totake Voichita, who is in a convent. But Voichita is so usedto the life in the convent that she wants to live as a nun.Alina stays in the convent to persuade Voichita. Asconflicts between Alina and the convent deepen, thepriests and nuns start to perform an exorcism.

Vous n'avez encore rien vu (You Haven't Seen AnythingYet) 당당신신은은 아아직직 아아무무것것도도 보보지지 못못했했다다Genre: DramaDirector: Alain ResnaisStarring: Mathieu Amalric, Pierre ArditiLanguage: FrenchSynopsis: After the death of a renowned playwright,Antoine d'Anthac, 13 actors and actresses who haveappeared in Antoine's play Eurydice are invited to hiscastle. They watch a video message from Antoine and arecording of Eurydice performed by young actors andactresses.

Rent-a-Cat 고고양양이이를를 빌빌려려드드립립니니다다Genre: Drama, ComedyDirector: Naoko OgigamiStarring: Mikako Ichikawa, Reiko KusamuraLanguage: JapaneseSynopsis: Sayoko lives alone after her grandmother passedaway. She rents cats to lonely people. She talks to thepeople who rent the cats and gets to know their loneliness.Their stories make her feel connected with them becauseshe is lonely as well. She wants to marry a good man andone day make a family but she is unable to do so in reality.

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM

9Gwangju News December 2012

Yeosu Hyangiram Temple Sunrise Festival 여여수수 향향일일암암 일일출출제제Date: Dec. 31Venue: Impo Village, Dolsan-eup, Yeosu, Jeollanam-doPrograms: Korean traditional music festival, Sunrise singingcontest, Orchestra, Candlelight ceremony, New year'scountdown, Watch-night bell ringing, Fireworks, Dancefestival, Family movie festivalDirections: Take the bus to Yeosu from U-square Gwangjubus terminal (Frequency: every 10 - 20 minutes). FromYeosu bus terminal, take bus 111 and get off at Impo busstop (Frequency: every 60 - 90 minutes, duration: 50minutes).For more information: 061-690-2041

2012 Haenam Kimchi-Making for the Winter SharingFestival 해해남남 김김장장나나눔눔축축제제Date: Dec. 1Venue: Uhangri Dinosaur Fossil Site, Uhang-ri, Hwangsan-myon, Haenam-gun, Jeollanam-doPrograms: Making kimchi, Tasting kimchi, Performancesby local artistsDirections: Take the bus to Haenam from U-square(Frequency: every 1 hour). From the Haenam busterminal, take the bus named “Haenam- Jeunguido” andget off at Haenam Uhangri Dinosaur Fossil site bus stop.For more information: 061-530-5919

Boseong Green Tea Plantation and Light Festival 보보성성차차밭밭 빛빛 축축제제Date: Dec.14, 2012 to Jan. 27, 2013Venue: Dahyanggak Pavil ion Observatory area,Yeongcheon-ri, Hoecheon-myeon, Boseong-gun,Jeollanam-doPrograms: lighting ceremony, celebratory performance,fireworks, photo zone, milky way tunnel, street of lights Directions: Take the bus to Boseong, from U-square(Frequency: every 30 minutes). From the BoseongTerminal, take a local bus bound for Yulpo and get off atBoseong Green Tea Plantation.For more information: 061-850-5211~5214

Festival

advertisement

Welcome to the December Edition of what'shappening and new at Holiday Inn Gwangju.

Great Shellfish Platter

Small platters from22,600 won andlarge platters from38,000 won whenpurchasing ourbuffet.

Christmas in Hourglass and Bookings are EssentialWith Christmas day fallingon a Tuesday this year, wehave decided to extend ourSpecial Christmas Buffetfrom Saturday December 22through to December 25.Plus a huge spread ofprawns with fresh oystersand clamsLunch: 39,900 won per person Dinner: 49,900 won per person

Reservations are essential: 062-610-7061or 7062

Wonderful Winter Coffee'sAs winter is on our doorstep we will again promotea range of winter coffees that include, JamesonIrish Coffee, Gluehwein, Kahlua Coffee and BaileysCoffee.

Best wishes,Michael WilsonGeneral ManagerHoliday Inn [email protected]

This Month at Holiday Inn Gwangju

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM


Mudeung Mountain Punggyeong Sori (Tinkling of a Wind-bell) 무무등등산산 풍풍경경소소리리Christmas Music FeastVenue: Naju Noahn CathedralDirections: Take bus 38 at the U-square bus station whichgoes to Songjeong Park station. Then take town bus 601,get off at the Leeseul-chon station.Date: Dec. 22Time: 7 p.m.Admission: FreePhone: 062-226-0826

Soul Play – Brown Eyed Soul Gwangju Concert 브브라라운운아아이이드드소소울울 광광주주 콘콘서서트트Venue: Yeomju GymnasiumDate: Dec. 15Time: 6 p.m.Admission: Seat SR 132,000 won / Seat R 110,000 won /Seat S 88,000 won/ Seat A 77,000 wonPhone: 1588-0766

Musical – Ballerina Who Loved a B-boy 뮤뮤지지컬컬 비비보보이이를를 사사랑랑한한 발발레레리리나나Venue: Grand Theater, Gwangju Cultural and Art CenterDate: Dec. 24 - 25Times: 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. (24th)/ 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. (25th)Admission: Seat VIP 66,000 won/ Seat R 55,000/ Seat S33,000 wonPhone: 1600-6689

Musical – Don't Cry Tonj 뮤뮤지지컬컬 울울지지마마 톤톤즈즈Venue: Grand Theater, Gwangju Cultural and Art CenterDate: Dec. 8 - 9Times: 3 p.m. / 7 p.m.Admission: Seat VIP 77,000 won/ Seat R 66,000 won/ SeatS 55,000 wonSeat A 44,000 wonPhone: 1600-6689

Rocky Man – Singer Lee Seung-chul Gwangju Concert 이이승승철철 광광주주 콘콘서서트트Venue : Kim Daejung Convention CenterDate: Dec.12Time: 7 p.m.Admission : Seat VVIP 121,000 won/ Seat VIP 110,000 won/Seat R 99,000 won/ Seat S 88,000 won / Seat A 77,000 wonPhone: 1588-0766

Sarah Chang Violin Recital 사사라라 장장 바바이이올올린린 리리사사이이틀틀Venue: Grand Theater, Gwangju Cultural and Art CenterDate: Dec. 1Time: 7 p.m.Admission: Seat VIP 143,000 won/ Seat R 132,000 won /Seat S 99,000 won/ Seat A 77,000 won/ Seat B 66,000 wonPhone: 062-417-6022

Performance

Project Gwangju: Postcards from Abroad and YourGwangju Community Photography Exhibition 프프로로젝젝트트 광광주주Venue: Gwangju International Center, Jeonil Building 5F,Dong-gu, GwangjuPrograms: Postcard Exhibition, Gwangju Photo Exhibition.Project Gwangju is a community art project incollaboration with the Gwangju Biennale. The concept ofthis project is to see our local region, Gwangju, in a newand different perspective, and to think about how theGwangju community is connected to the world throughits people.For more information: www.gic.or.kr

2012 Gwangju Photowalk – GIC Photo Exhibition 광광주주포포토토워워크크 사사진진전전Venue: Gwangju International Center, Jeonil Building 5F,Dong-gu, GwangjuDate: Nov. 24 - Dec. 17This exhibition showcases photos taken during the 5thWorldwide Photowalk happening in Gwangju on Nov. 13.

A-AUCTION Modern and Contemporary Art & AntiquesAuction Preview Exhibition 에에이이옥옥션션 근근현현대대 및및 고고미미술술품품 경경매매 프프리리뷰뷰 전전시시Venue: U-Square Culture Center (Kumho Gallery)Date: Dec. 6 - 11Time: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.Admission fee: FreePhone: 062-360-8432

36th Yeonuhoe Calligraphy Exhibition제제 3366회회 연연우우회회 서서예예전전(*Yeonuhoe means The Group of Painters dealing with anInkstone. Yeonuhoe is instituted to make contribution toadvance in Korea art as well as show their art throughexhibition.)Venue: U-Square Culture Center (Kumho Gallery)Date: Dec. 13-19 Time: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.Admission fee: FreePhone: 062-222-4155

Providence 천천명명Venue: Gwangju Museum of Art (Sangrok Exhibition Hall)Date: Nov. 2 to Dec.16Time: Tue-Sun 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. /Mon closedAdmission Fee: Adults 500 won/Youth 300 won/Children 200wonPhone: 062-613-7114

Wild-eyed Friends 엉엉뚱뚱한한 친친구구들들Venue: Gwangju Museum of Art (Children's Gallery)Date: Oct 25, 2012 to Feb 10, 2013Time: Tue-Sun 10 a.m.-6 p.m. /Mon closedAdmission Fee: Adults 500 won/Youth 300 won/Children 200wonPhone: 062-613-7114

Bitgoeul Handmade Fair 빛빛고고을을 핸핸드드메메이이드드 페페어어Venue: Kimdaejung Convention CenterDate: Nov 29 to Dec 2Time: 10 a.m to 6 p.m.Admission Fee: FreePhone: 062-360-2623

Exhibition

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM


Sports

Gwangju FC TeamNovember Match Schedule

Date

1

Match Team

Jeonnam Dragons

Time

3 p.m.

Venue: Gwangju World Cup Stadium (광주월드컵경기장)Direction: Buses 6, 16, 20, 26, 47, 74 and get off at theWorld Cup Stadium bus stopTicket Price: VIP 10,000 won, Gold 5,000 won (10%discount for online purchases)Website: www.gwangjufc.com

Time & Place: Every Saturday, 3:00 p.m. - 4:30 p.m.,GIC office (Jeon-il Bldg 5th Fl.) For more information visit www.gic.or.kr or [email protected] out pictures from previous GIC Talks athttp://picasaweb.google.com/gictalkWatch highlight clips of previous GIC Talks atwww.youtube.com/GICTALK

December 1Speaker: David Magee (England)David Magee was born and raised in Liverpool,England, and studied English at the University ofManchester. He was brought up listening to hishometown band The Beatles and watching classicJames Bond movies, and retains his love for thesethings today. He is passionate about music, cinema,and literature, and dreams of one day earning aliving as a writer. Background: B.A. in English language, University ofManchester (UK)Topic: The Global Reach of Contemporary BritishCultureAfter producing such legendary figures rangingfrom film director Alfred Hitchcock, musicalpioneers The Beatles, and, more recently, wand-wielding author JK Rowling, this famouslyunassuming island nation can deservedly call itselfone of the world's greatest cultural superpowers –British names such as these, and many others likethem, can now command an almost peerlessrecognition in the realms of literature, music, andcinema.This talk aims to explore and discuss this wide rangeof artists, and make apparent just what it is thathas led to the immortality of the likes of JohnLennon and Paul McCartney, J.R.R. Tolkien, andeven the ageless British secret agent, James Bond.

[ GIC Talk ]

December 8Speaker: Mary Beth Wims (USA) Mary Beth Wims is an English teacher at InseongSchool Institute in the Cheomdan area of Gwangju.Her background is in health education, programplanning and biology. Prior to moving to Korea topursue her dream of teaching internationally, sheworked for five years in oncology researchadministration at the University of Wisconsin CarboneCancer Center.Background: B.S. in Health Sciences, Truman StateUniversity; TEFL Midwest Teacher Training ProgramTopic: The Doctor Will See You Now: A Look atHealthcare SystemsGood health – we all want it, but many of us find itillusive. For most people, good health comes froma combination of prudent lifestyle choices,genetics, luck, and adequate and affordablehealthcare. This last variable is so important to ourwell-being, but finding, accessing, and paying forquality care can be affected by many thingsoutside our control. This talk will outline the generalhealthcare policies of South Korea and the USA aswell as compare these two systems to those ofother nations. The speaker invites the audience tobring their knowledge and opinions and beprepared for a lively discussion.

December 15Speaker: Jonathan Haines (USA)As a child growing up in Brooklyn, New York City, hewas introduced to sports by his father, who was hisbasketball coach for years. His father taught him thenuts and bolts of both English and basketball, butnever cared at all for the game called baseball. Afterdiscovering an athlete named Mike Piazza, ourcurious protagonist became infatuated with thegame of baseball, especially the lesser known NewYork team from Queens – the New York Mets. Background: B.A. in Media Studies at FordhamUniversity, New York, New York, USATopic: Why Baseball Matters Countless American authors, poets, and long-winded people with too little to do have calledbaseball a metaphor for not just the great countryof the United States of America, but also for lifeitself. Every spring, the excitement of a new seasonlulls the end of a cold offseason. For decades,baseball has been called “America's pastime.” Inrecent years, it has become extremely popular inother nations, including our very own South Korea.While in America it has been surpassed byAmerican football in terms of popularity, it still holdsplenty of meaning for a country that began arelatively short time ago. This talk will explore howbaseball grew up alongside a new, young countryand what kind of importance it has for some of itsbiggest fans, including the speaker.

December 22 & 29No GIC Talk

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM


can't decide if I'm not learning anything or I'mlearning a lot.

It's Saturday, November 3, and I have been giventhe honor of sitting down to a classy lunch atGwangju's popular Arirang House with one of themost important men I've ever met: Vietnam'sambassador to South Korea, Tran Trong Toan. Withus is a small committee sent to welcome him by theGwangju International Center (GIC), where theambassador is scheduled to give a speech. Thiscommittee includes two university professors.

To summarize, I 'm easi ly the least culturallysophisticated person at the table - and that's partof my motivation for showing up today. What sortof conversations do brilliant academics have witheach other? Let me tell you, I am learning. So farwe've heard from the ambassador threequintessentially Vietnamese jokes about drunkpeople (and they were funny, mind you), anexplanation of the idiom “planting the bananatree,” a few factoids about how cultural exchangewith China has changed his country's language,

I and a few suggestions about Vietnamese food totry. The ambassador has in turn complimented thefish we are eating and inquired about the Koreantranslations of a few words.

In short, the conversation is strained. The ice justisn't breaking. There is an overwhelming sense atthe table that the topic of conversation simplymust be related to Vietnam, South Korea, or therelationship between the two. After all, one doesn'tformally invite an ambassador to lunch so he cantalk baseball. But since the words of a diplomatcarry exceptional weight, Tran's statements oncurrent affairs must of necessity be eithernoncommittal or vaguely positive, and thereforevery little fun. It also doesn't help that I've beenadvised not to ask certain types of questions. Thusour circumscribed conversation gravitatesinexorably toward the trading of little nuggets ofinformation that are always politely received withsome variation of “Oh, is that so? You don't say.”

Finally, the problem is compounded by the factthat the ambassador is the private sort. He informs

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GoodAfternoon,VietnamBy C. Adam VollePhotos by Christian Oey and courtesyof Chonnam National University

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:34 AM


me of this himself, in a perfectly kind manner,during our car ride to the GIC after lunch. Yes, hesays, he does indeed have two daughters, but hedoesn't elaborate. Fair enough, I think. Here's whatI do learn about him:

Ambassador Tran was born on a Sunday inOctober of 1952, in the Ha Tay province justsouthwest of Hanoi's city gates. His father Ahnnamed him Toan, meaning “safe,” on the groundsthat there was precious little else in the Red RiverDelta that had gone by that description for quitesome time; the atrocity-laden First Indochina Warwas still in full swing after over five years, with theVietnamese Communists and French Union forcesdishearteningly stalemated. Tran's father's ownname meant “peace,” but it was the man's latersoldiering with the Communist army, as well as theenlistment of Tran's elder brother, that allowed Tranto be safe in more than name. For their service, theSocialist Republic of Vietnam exempted Tran fromthe draft.

But as it turned out, the state had other uses forhim anyway. “I had no idea,” the ambassadorrecounts with an authentic laugh (we are gettinga little friendlier now), “but they were alreadylooking at me while I was in high school.” Tran'sexcellent grades and commitment to the Party

convinced the government to send him off touniversity in the Soviet Union, where he obtained aMaster's in Philosophy and Oriental Studies atTashkent State. He has lived the life of the careerdiplomat ever since, steadily working his way upfrom the junior posit ion of desk officer in hiscountry's Ministry of Foreign Affairs to headier rolesat its embassies in India, Malaysia, and South Korea– and it doesn't get too much more heady than hiscurrent job, fully titled His Excellency, AmbassadorExtraordinary and Plenipotentiary.

Even native speakers of English usually need adictionary to parse that title, so let's spend amoment on it. The word “extraordinary” may seemflattering, but it actually just means the man's job istemporary; Vietnam follows the internationalstandard of reassigning its ambassadors everythree years. A “plenipotentiary” is a representativein the fullest sense - a person with the power totake any action on behalf of the person beingrepresented, in this case the president of Vietnam.That Tran is a plenipotentiary of Vietnam's presidentis signaled by the honorific “His Excellency” beforehis name, a form of address usually reserved forpresidents and governors of territories. The clearimplication is that, so far as everyone in SouthKorea should be concerned, Tran is the presidentof Vietnam.

Ambassador Tran giving a presentation on Vietnam at the GIC Talk

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Obviously that's not a responsibility he takes lightly,but it is one with which he's grown comfortable.Not only has he served in the post for over 2 1/2years now, but he came to it after having alreadycompleted a term as Vietnam's ambassador toMalaysia, back in 2003. I ask him how muchdifference there is between his work there and hiswork here. “There is not so much difference,” hereplies. “The paperwork is essentially the same.”

There's probably a little more of it, though. WhileMalaysia does employ nearly 130,000 Vietnameselaborers, “Korea is the second biggest foreigninvestor in Vietnam and Vietnam is the third largestforeign market for Korean investment … Korea is thefourth biggest trade partner of Vietnam and Vietnamis Korea's ninth largest market for Korean exports [aswell as] Korea's 21st largest import source.” A freetrade agreement is currently in the works.

But how much does all of this activity have to dowith Gwangju?

You might be surprised. Even if Gwangju doesn'thave any sort of official relationship with a “sistercity” in Vietnam like Seoul and Busan do, it still hassignificant ties to the Socialist Republic. Tran notesthat Gwangju has taken a leading role inpromoting a positive perception of Vietnameseculture among South Koreans.

The first major exhibition of Vietnamese art in SouthKorea opened in 2010 at the Gwangju Museum ofArt. Last year the city organized the firstinternational workshop in Korea dedicated to thelife of modern Vietnam's founder, Ho Chi Minh.When one considers South Korea's adversarialrelationship to that man during his lifetime - hiscommunist beliefs are still considered seditiouswithin the R.O.K. Army – this gesture of goodwill isgenuinely impressive.

Moreover, there is a large Vietnamese community

in Gwangju comprising Vietnamese workers,students and Vietnamese brides. The ambassadorslyly notes that, considering the number ofVietnamese women who now l ive with theirKorean husbands in the countryside ofJeollanamdo, Gwangju will never have a “sister”city in Vietnam. “It will have a mother-in-law.”

But seriously: “We have here [in South Korea] aquite significant number of Korea-Vietnam bi-cultural families which are now around 50,000families. I reserve a lot of my time and attention tothis community as we want them to be stable,prosperous and happy.” By his estimate, aboutthree-fourths of Korea-Vietnam marriages now fitthat description. His government is trying to improvethat figure by, for example, requiring Koreangrooms to have some knowledge of Vietnameselanguage and culture before they can wed.Vietnam's government has also recently authorizedthe Vietnamese Women Union to establishcounseling centers and classes on Korean culturefor Vietnamese women interested in Korean men.

The ambassador is also working hard to sellVietnam's business environment. One of the

Ambassador Tran meeting Vietnamese community inGwangju

Ambassador Tran at the GIC Talk

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Vietnamese embassy's duties in South Korea is topromote the idea of investment in Vietnam toKorean businesses, including those in Gwangju.

“Gwangju has five industrial parks and is home toover 1,200 companies,” the ambassador explains.“Vietnam would like to attract investment fromthose companies with high-tech industries,automobile industry, textile and garment industry,supportive industries, [and the] food processingindustry which are active in Gwangju.

“We are happy to provide necessary informationto Korean companies in Gwangju and tointroduce Vietnamese partners for them to dobusiness in Vietnam.”

Pushing past family assistance and economicdiplomacy, the ambassador also likes to pay anoccasional visit to the Vietnamese community inGwangju which includes students in Gwangju'suniversit ies. Chonnam National Universityspecifically has an active Vietnamese StudentAssociation (VSA), and many of its members are inthe audience when we enter the GIC lecture hall.

At the GIC, Tran delivers his speech. Naturally, HisExcellency begins by noting some of the culturaland historical similarities between South Korea andhis homeland, and then proceeds to the usualstatements about how well the countries'

partnership isprogressing. I 'mmainly interestedin the short Q&Asession fora u d i e n c emembers, duringwhich they mayask anything theylike. How will thea m b a s s a d o rhandle a stack ofquestions thathaven't beenvetted for possiblediscomfort?

The answer is:exceedingly well.He's warm. Open.Knowledgeable.He doesn't speakin statements.When someoneasks, “What roledoes Socialism stillplay in Vietnam?”the ambassador

replies with his own personal definition of Socialism:To him, Socialism is the goal of “a democratic,equitable and civilized” country “of the People, bythe People, and for the People” (a clever choice ofphrase; he is quoting Ho Chi Minh, who wasquoting the U.S. Declaration of Independence).The ambassador then adds that there isn't muchdifference in principle between the “socialist-oriented market economy” of today's Vietnam andthe supposed capitalism of countries like the UnitedStates.

The answers he gives to the next questions areequally as intelligent and heartfelt. When askedagain about the possibility of a sister city in Vietnamfor Gwangju, he offers his opinion on what citywould be most appropriate (he suggests Hue,Vietnam's capital in the 19th century). I amenjoying this visit from the ambassador now morethan at any point in the day. I feel I understand alittle better why Vietnam's president sent thisparticular man to be his plenipotentiary. Like mostof the other attendees, I'm genuinely disappointedwhen he soon runs out of time, and when thecrowd begins advancing on the ambassadorafterward instead of dispersing, I join it. Like them, Iwant a handshake, perhaps even a picture. It tookuntil the last few minutes of my observation of theman from Ha Tay, but Ambassador Tran has finallyconnected with me, and that is the skill of a gooddiplomat.

Ambassador Tran during the interview with Gwangju News and Chonnam National University

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his year the annual Gwangju International FilmFestival was held November 8-12 and featureda formidable variety of notable and

provocative international films. The final film was adocumentary about Burmese human rights activistand pro-democracy leader, Aung San Suu Kyientitled, Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear. Thefilm's director, Anne Gyrithe Bonne, was also inattendance for the screening (a remarkable thingconsidering that she had flown from her nativeDenmark in order to attend) and she was graciousenough to grant Gwangju News a private interview.

Aung San Suu Kyi: Lady of No Fear naturally coversSuu Kyi's infamous periods of house arrest and thepersonal discipline and mental fortitude shepossessed which allowed her to be such a powerfulleader and democratic activist. However, the filmfocuses on Suu Kyi's private life, which Bonne wouldargue is essential to understanding her involvementin the Burmese struggle for democracy. Bonnespecifically chose to focus on the astoundingrelationship between Suu Kyi and her husband,Michael Aris, since Aris was a major support to SuuKyi and similarly held her belief that Burma waseverything: more than each other, more than theirchildren.

What the film is especially good at demonstrating isthe incredible mythic power that Aung San Suu Kyihas over the Burmese people. Because of herbackground as the daughter of the greatcommander and soldier of independence, AungSan, as well as her renowned public speakingabilities, Aung San Suu Kyi was able to step into herfather's shoes; as one loyal Burmese supporter saidof her, “She is not only a fighter, she is acommander.”

There is a second side to her though; her gracefuland poised nature set her apart from other would-be leaders, and even from her college friends. Suu

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Aung San Suu Kyi:Lady of No Fear By Rachel RedfernPhotos courtesy of Gwangju International Film Festival (GIFF) OrganizingCommitee

Kyi was educated at Oxford during the sixties andwhile other women were exploring the sexualrevolution, Suu Kyi protested that she wanted to be avirgin when she married and that for now she would,“just hug her pillow at night.” In many ways Suu Kyinever forgot that she was from Burma, even refusingBritish citizenship as a way to maintain her heritage,for, as she told Aris when they married, “If Burmaneeds me, I will go.”

This dual-nature she possesses highlights herrelationship to Burma: Burma was always her home,but neither was she the government's puppet,sporting a rebellious streak of her own. A rebelliousstreak that Bonne believes is demonstrated in hermarriage to Aris, who despite his cosmopolitanupbringing, was still an “enemy of Burma” as anEnglishman. Suu Kyi directly went against hermother's wishes, her family's wishes, and even thewishes of her country by marrying the man she loved– her mother refused to even attend the wedding.

For many years Suu Kyi stayed in Oxford with herfamily, giving birth to two children and supportingher husband's rising career as a Buddhist scholar, a

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Director Anne Gyrithe Bonne

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topic that surprisingly Aris actually taught Suu Kyiabout and an interest that the two of them shared.Eventually, Suu Kyi began to start her own projects,beginning a biography about her father and evenapplying to graduate school. However, the suddenfailing health of her mother in 1988 called her backto Burma, unknowing that she would become itsmost outspoken and inspiring democratic activist injust a few short months.

In reference to Suu Kyi's sudden propulsion intoBurmese politics, Bonne felt that Suu Kyi had beenseduced by Burma, stating that, “She had been aproper housewife for a long time, 'ironing Michael'ssocks.' During that time period the world was moreabout the man; if you wanted to get a Ph.D youcouldn't because you had your children and yourhouse and your husband. Then there was the 8-8-88revolution and she went to Burma to visit her motherand she was finally elevated. She gave a lot ofpublic speeches, speeches with some say 250,000people, some say even 500,000 people; she was anamazing public speaker and people loved her.”

But her success would lead to great personalsacrifice, a situation that Bonne outlines in her film.While many are aware that Suu Kyi was held underhouse arrest for almost 15 years, some might not beaware that she was allowed to leave as she chose:she just wouldn't be allowed to return. The

conditions for her release were dependent upon herwillingness to live in exile from Burma. However,despite her desire to see her family (Aris and herchildren were refused visas into Burma starting in1995) she knew that she could only be effective ifshe stayed in Burma. And how could she leaveBurma knowing that so many others could not? Howcould she leave knowing that Burmese people weresuffering and political prisoners were being abused?She therefore chose separation from her familyrather than abandon her people, a decision thatled to criticism against Suu Kyi, some saying that shehad ‘abandoned her children’, which is a harshaccusation against any mother.

However, exposing the information about Suu Kyileaving her children in England to serve Burma wasBonne's greatest concern about producing this film;“I was afraid of destroying her cause. It was abalancing act to make her story and also berespectful because I was afraid that the general[leader of Burma] and others would see the film andthink she's a bad mother and end up damaging hercause.” However, Bonne continued to make thefilm, believing it was essential to uncover the storybehind the icon, to realize what had nurtured sucha strong and effective supporter of democracy andcivil rights.

The documentary then walks a delicate line in

Aung San Suu Kyi

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respectfully baring Suu Kyi's unique past, highlightingher political achievements, while alsodemonstrating Suu Kyi's own humanity. In that light,the film focuses more on her personal relationshipsand features interviews from several of her closefriends and family. These interviews revealed justhow much Suu Kyi sacrificed for the people ofBurma after the Burmese government refused toallow Aris to visit his wife, even as he was dying ofprostate cancer. Aris died in 1999 in England,unable to say goodbye to his beloved wife.

Despite the tragic circumstances surrounding Aris'sdeath and the Burmese governments unwillingnessto allow him into the country, Bonne believes that itserved to increase Suu Kyi's popularity and poweramong the Burmese people. When it becameknown that she had given up everything for them,she became even more beloved and hersupporters ever more loyal.

While great attention should obviously be paid toSuu Kyi's incredible political triumphs, when askedabout what she wanted audiences to take awayfrom the film, Bonne explained that she hopespeople see, “That there's always a story behind theperson and then realize what price they had to payto become that person and who they are.” A tie-into a beautiful line in the film where Aung San Suu Kyisays, “Nothing is free: if you want something ofvalue you must make payments accordingly.”According to Bonne, Suu Kyi, “paid a big price.”

The extended version of the film (which I was ableto view on Monday night) actually starts at the endof her house arrest, with the first few minutes of thefilm showing footage of Suu Kyi after her 2010release. This is unique for many reasons: thedocumentary was originally released a mere twodays before Suu Kyi's 2010 release. Bonne is humble

Director Anne Gyrithe Bonne receiving awards from theGwangju International Film Festival 2012

Aung San Suu Kyi - Lady of no Fear Director: Anne Gyrithe Bonne Screenplay: Anne Gyrithe BonneCinematography: Erik Molberg, Anne Gyrithe Bonne Cast: Aung San Suu Kyi (self) Website: www.ladyofnofear.com

Synopsis: Aung San Suu Kyi is known first andforemost as the political opposition leader at thecentre of 20 years of social unrest and turmoil inBurma. She started out as a British housewife in theupper echelons of Oxford society before she wentback to her oppressed homeland and joined thestruggle for freedom. Since her return she was heldunder house arrest for fifteen out of twenty-oneyears during which she had minimal contact withher family and closest relations. 'Lady of No Fear'offers a close-up of the freedom fighting womanAung San Suu Kyi and her husband, Dr MichaelAris, who died on his 53rd birthday in 1999, stillunable to see his wife. Together they gave up theirnormal life and marriage for the cause of freedom inBurma. The film is a tribute to the woman at theheart of the rebellion, her steadfast husband andsupporter, and not least to Gandhi's vision of non-violent civic resistance.

about this astounding coincidence however,acknowledging that the film certainly, “broughtpeople's eyes to her.” Obviously the film created afair amount of exposure about Suu Kyi's situationand must have helped to place pressure on theBurmese government. In 2011, the film was selectedfor the exclusive Berlin 'Cinema for Peace' Festival,after which a journalist was finally allowed intoBurma to photograph Aung San Suu Kyi.

Bonne's film exposes Aung San Suu Kyi's humanityand in so doing has shown the strength and desirefor freedom that is possible in leaders and which isfundamentally necessary for the development ofhuman rights in the future. As Aung San Suu Kyi hassaid, “we must nurture mental strength and supporteach other,” because it is then that we experiencetrue freedom: “freedom from fear.”

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dopt a Child for Christmas is slowly becoming astaple in the Gwangju calendar as residents,Korean and expat alike, are invited to give to

those who otherwise won't receive. Simply put,residents of local orphanages are asked preciselywhat they would like, drawing up a Christmas wish listof sorts, and you, the good people of Gwangju areinvited to 'adopt a child', in other words go and buythe item they require. Gifts traditionally include warmwinter clothing, school bags, and other items thatbudgets at orphanages just can't quite cover.

As well as the assurance your gift will be one thereceiver requires, there is the further bonus that alldonators are invited to attend a Christmas Party at1:00 p.m. on December 15 at Sungbin Home for Girlsto witness the young ladies at that particularorphanage receive their gifts.

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community

By Daniel ListerPhoto by Stephen Redeker

Adopt A Child ForChristmas 2012


Life in an orphanage in fairness probably isn't thegreatest, and when Christmas comes round, muchlike the rest of the year the chance to receiveclothes which aren't hand-me-downs is one that ishugely appreciated. Anyone who has been to oneof the previous parties will confirm how muchappreciation the girls at Sungbin showed at the twoprevious parties when they unwrapped their gifts.

So you want to get involved this year? Followthe following steps:

Step#1. Find “Adopt A Child For Christmas2012” on Facebook, make a post on the wallof the page, send a private message tocontact Daniel Lister, or alternatively [email protected] saying how manychildren you'd like to purchase for (you maymay purchase for more than one!).

Step#2. You wil l be given a name, age,required gift and details (color, size, brandetc.)

Step#3. Go shopping!* All gifts should be wrapped and clearlylabeled with a gift tag stating the child's nameand yours. Please include receipts.

Step#4. Drop off gifts – Downtown at the GIC.At Chonnam National University or GwangjuWomen's University, though contact Daniel firstto make exactarrangements. Thedeadline for gifts isDecember 12.

Step#5. Comealong to theChristmas party –all donatorswelcome! 1:00 p.m.on December 15 atSungbin Home forGirls.

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nd as I walked to Tequilaz, for my maiden visitinside, I was a little apprehensive about whatI might see. When I hear of a “Mexican”

restaurant, located hundreds of miles away from itsorigin I get worried. It reminds me, an Irishman, ofwalking into those “Irish” bars that seem to think anIrish bar has to be decorated in green, withGuinness signs draped from the ceiling to the floorand with pictures of men who look as old asmountains, wearing a paddy hat and looking cold.So I was relieved when I saw Tequilaz. There wereno cheap gimmicks or stereotypical Mexicansymbols such as a statue of a small, happy, chubbyman with an anchor mustache wearing asombrero. In fact, my first impression was one of amodern, stylish and sophisticated restaurant withMexican food as its primary attraction. It's stylish in itssetting; it's spacious with the bar serving as theepicentre of it. The open space allows for twothings: a room for multiple groups to sit comfortablywith one another which gives rise to a relaxed andfree social environment where people can talk withtheir friends, as well as an area that looks out ontoGwangsan-dong street. If you are having troublelooking for it on a Saturday night, you will probably

hear it before you see it, because of the jubilantenvironment inside.

While I was there I did two things, speak to Sung-juand sample Tequilaz's menu. I found Sung-ju to bereserved when speaking of himself, yet passionateand hungry to succeed as we spoke of Tequilaz.Sung-ju, a former agent, is a well-travelled man,having spent time living in Canada, Australia andEngland. Upon his return, in 2010, he decided toopen up a Mexican restaurant with its manifesto to“give people the opportunity to meet others” andto “share and change cultural experiences withone another” in Gwangju. Thus, it is a restaurant,but it also acts as a social space for people tocome and chat together.

Sung-ju's hunger is seen in his ambition for the businessand in his knowledge that to succeed, change isnecessary. Given that nearly 80% of his customers areexpats, he was keen to get Korean people tasting hisMexican food and by doing so, making them awarethat such food exists in Gwangju. GIC Day 2012provided Tequilaz with the perfect platform to makepeople aware that Mexican food exists in Korea and to

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food and drink

By Andrew SweeneyPhotos by Oronzo Venturoso

Tacos Nachos

Tequilaz is growing in both customers and reputation. Recently, on a rainy, windy Sunday night, I wasgiven the opportunity to take shelter in Tequilaz, meet its owner, sample the Mexican food theyserve, and take in the atmosphere and see what all the hype was about...

Tequilaz Mexican Restaurant:The perfect place to start aSaturday night

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allow them to taste his food. The event was a greatsuccess for the owner, and he hopes that word willspread about his business. Change came about in 2011when he decided to move Tequilaz from its originallocation, Chonnam National University back gate, todowntown. With a new location brought a new menu,serving “high quality food,” according to the owner. Inthe beginning there was only Sung-ju in the kitchen, butnow he has three chefs working for him. Thisimprovement in quality became obvious to me as I wastreated to a sampling of their Mexican cuisine. I wasserved tortilla tacos, chorizo nachos with fresh salsasauce and pork chimichanga. The food, cooked withall fresh produce, was tasty and extremely filling.Mexican food is the ideal food to eat on a night outwith others. The food is authentic, served fresh and it isfood made to be eaten around a table and sharedwith friends in a fun environment. Tequilaz provides thisfor its customers and at a reasonable price too.

Tony, the manager, has brought not only a hungerto succeed to match Sung-ju, he has also broughthis own stamp to Tequilaz; most noticeably in itsmyriad of cocktails served at the bar but also in his“baby” as he calls it, “Wing Wednesdays”. EveryWednesday at Tequilaz, you can enjoy a classic trioof American style chicken wings, beer and football.The wings are served with sauces all made in house,and they are sauces you will not have tastedbefore. There is a peanut butter and jelly sauce, aspicy chocolate and coca-cola sauce as well as

the traditional sauces you would expect to find. OnWednesdays, you can get a healthy helping ofwings and a draft beer for only 8,000 won, a pitcherof beer for 10,000 won and for those going in agroup you can get a platter of twenty wings for abuck each. Another great offer is buffet night, whichhappens on the first Thursday of every month, from7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. The charge is 15,000 won forall you can eat of Mexican food only, with a draftbeer included. While Wing Wednesdays show thatTequilaz is not exclusive to Mexican cuisine, and apossible sign of things to come, it does show thatthey are willing to change and alter to cater for theappetites of their customers.

While my visit was short, I feel I got a sense of whatSung-ju is trying to achieve at Tequilaz. It is arestaurant that serves Mexican food, beer andcocktails. Yet, it can be more than that; it's a socialhub for the Gwangju people to come and talk, tocommunicate with others. It is the perfect place togo on a Saturday night with a group of friends to eat,drink, and laugh, all hallmarks of a great night out.

Kang Sung-ju, Tequilaz owner

Food and drinks at Tequilaz

Tequilaz 데데낄낄라라즈즈

Address: 79-6 Gwangsan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju(Tequilaz is located downtown in Gwangsan-dong onthe second floor, next to Soul Train.)Phone: 062-224-2436To see more promotions available at Tequilaz, visit theirFacebook page.

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MunsusaBy Doug Stuber

photo essay

lthough Baegyangsa is very popular in autumn, perhaps due to its reflecting pond, or large parkingcapacity, there is another Buddhist temple north of Gwangju which offers over 500 maples on an easyhike that presents overflow crowds with every fall color. Located near Gochang, Munsusa is a series of

seven buildings nestled among some of the older trees. Munsusa was originally built in the 1630s and rebuilt inthe early 1800s. One old building remains rustic, giving its courtyard an authentic ambiance. A meditativerespite from the crowds of tripod-toting shutterbugs is thus ensured for the spiritually inclined.

Direction: From Gochang Bus Terminal, take bus to Munsusa (duration: 30 minutes).

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This page: Munsusa’s autumn foliage

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Munsusa atop the old foundation rocks

Munsusa’s rustic building

Munsusa’s fall berries Munsusa’s small waterfall

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By a month's time, it is possible to improve to themore advanced levels.

The more advanced level training classes forprofessionals are at least four to five days a weekincluding customized coaching and costs 200,000won a month. While in this class, it is possible to joincompetitions and compete against other localand international climbers. At this stage, you willlearn a series of holds. Some of these holds requirethe suspended boulderer to maintain a hold usingonly their fingertips. This specific example is calleda crimp or crimping. Extreme upper-body strengthis needed for this.

wangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym iscertainly unique. Walking through the door,one can see the difference. Instead of

towering walls and hanging ropes, this gym boastsslanted beams, grips on the walls and even on theceiling.

The back walls are staged for beginners withdifferent grip classes and paths. The side walls arereserved for more extreme climbers. As you scaleacross the walls, the holds and paths becomeincreasingly demanding and more awkward. Eachgrab brings you closer to the more difficult levels.You can easily feel the burn in your forearms, handsand fingers as you scale across the room.

Climbing to the intermediate side of the gym allowsfor ceiling suspension and even more challengingand uncomfortable grips. By this point, the graspsare very tiny and almost impossible to grip. Even thefoot holds are hard to put your weight on. If you canget to this point, you will find yourself hanging fromthe skewed walls trying not to fall. Depending onyour level though, it is best to get some training. Theowner of the gym, who is highly skilled himself, offerstraining for all levels – beginner, intermediate,advanced and sport competitive. In fact, a studentof the gym is on his way to compete in theInternational Federation of Sport Climbing – the“World Series” for bouldering athletes. This is a greatsource of pride for the climber and the teachersalike.

The beginning classes consist of two-hour sessions ofthree to four times a week for one month at a rateof 100,000 won. The first 30 minutes consist ofstretching exercises needed for climbing. The next60 minutes are a warm-up and for instruction. In theclass, you can expect to learn footing and handand body techniques. Each hold and techniqueallows the climber to relieve the most amount ofstress while easily remaining on the wall or rock.There are quite a few grabs and positions that helpthe more experienced climber remain suspended.

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Gwangju Indoor Rock ClimbingBy Shay MeineckePhotos by Jannies Le

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While advancing, you will find yourself attempting theextreme angles of the walls and impossible holds. Notonly that, but the lanes are also incredibly difficult –expect to see some Mission Impossible wall jumps forthe expertly trained dare-devil climbers. In fact, whilethe jump from the movie seemed impossible, there isactually a name for what Tom Cruise's character,Ethan Hunt, attempted. It is called a dyno movement.This is when the climber completely releases his/herholds in order to regain contact with a grip outside ofprevious reach. While this is an extreme move, youcan expect to learn this and other moves/holds suchas campusing, chest jam and manteling. Each ofthese varies in difficulty and requires practice andcoaching.

However, if you prefer less competition and more fun,Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym opens its doors

to the public for 10,000 won a day. This admissionincludes shows and an all-day pass. Their hours are10 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Monday to Friday and 10 a.m.to 4:30 p.m. on Saturday. The trainers will also offeradvice for beginners and help with basic positionsand holds in order to get people on their way.

The atmosphere of the gym is very friendly. Climbersand trainers alike offer recommendations and whatworks for them. Even the owner's wife and daughter,who are also gifted climbers, offer advice. You canexpect to see the family climbing around the roomat all levels. It's quite a sight to see a 10-year-oldbouldering at an advanced level. Both the daughterand mother easily spring from grip to grip anddangle around the holds in simple, fluid motions.

Whatever your level or reason for getting in a greatworkout, Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym is agreat way to spend a day. Your body will thank youfor the tremendous workout and you will find a senseof accomplishment as you learn how to climb a wall.In addition, you can even take your new skills outand try your hand at Korea's many mountains andnatural bouldering sites. Before then, learn from thebest at Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing gym.

Gwangju Indoor Rock Climbing Gym 광광주주실실내내암암벽벽

Address: 1597 Unam-dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju Directions: The gym is located on the 2nd and 3rd floor of171 Unam-dong’s Machinery & Tool Street (운암동 공구의 거리171번 2층/ 3층) Phone: 062-514-5325 (Lee Yoon-jae/ 이윤재)

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Gyeongju National Museum (more on that later).You can also see the largest Shilla tomb standing at22 meters high with a circumference of 250 meters.Both these parks are beautiful to relax in, althoughTumuli Park does get more crowded, and of course,due respect must be paid to the tombs by notclimbing on them.

The Gyeongju National Museum (free) is definitelyworth a visit and is vast in its collection of artifactsfrom Gyeongju's past. A word of warning though,don't try walking from downtown to the museum. Itis just that little bit too far and you will be tooexhausted to see most of the museum. The highlightof going is to see the golden crowns of Shilla ondisplay along with the relics that were pulled fromthe Anapji Pond (an artificial pond built inside thecrown prince palace). All are stunning and givesyou a sense of the richness of Korean history andculture that has all been wiped out in most places.

Down the road from the museum is Anapji Pond, agarden that once commemorated the unificationof Korea under the Shilla Kingdom but now is just abackdrop for wedding photos. The scenery isbeautiful and especially so at night with thereflection of the buildings in the pond. However, beprepared to have your elbows out to get a goodspot for a photo, you will want to take a few. I got alittle too Instragram-happy there!

The jewel in Gyeongju's crown would be theUNESCO World Heritage Sites of Bulguksa Templeand Seokguram Grotto (both 4,000 won entrance

umber two on the list of Lonely Planet's toppicks for South Korea is Gyeongju, but itoften gets forgotten in favor for the draws of

Seoul, Busan and Jeju. However, it is definitely worthmaking a trip to soak up the fresh air, mountainviews and a taste of old Korea.

Only two buses per day leave from U-Square forGyeongju (9:45 a.m. and 4:40 p.m.), taking threeand a half hours to get to the ancient Shilla capital,winding their way past Daegu through thebeautiful scenery of Gyeongsangbuk-do. Onceyou arrive you are an easy 10-minute walk from thebus terminal to downtown Gyeongju.

The first thing you notice when you arrive indowntown Gyeongju is the sky. It sounds strangebut you can really see the sky, from horizon tohorizon, in every direction. There are no skyscrapersblocking your view, no E-marts, no noraebangs, notowering shops blaring K-pop, just the sky, themountains and the dome tombs of the kings ofpast. Of course, these things do exist in Gyeongju,we are in Korea after all, but thankfully they arekept at arm's length away from the treasures thatmake this city so special and give you thebreathing space to really appreciate it.

In the centre of town are the two main parks to seethe dome tombs, Tumuli Park (1,500 won entrancefee), and across the road the Noseo-dong Tombs(free). The latter housing tombs were built betweenthe 4th and 5th centuries, which contained twogold crowns that can now be seen at the

Gyeongju:a Mini-break to the Shilla Kingdom

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Words and photos by Andrea Edwards

Tumuli Park

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Bulguksa

fee). Both sites are out of town but can be easilyreached by bus. I would recommend going toBulguksa first as you have to pick up a connectingbus from there to reach Seokguram. You can alsouse your MyBi bus card on the local buses there.

Bulguksa is a fine authentic example of Shillacarpentry and artistry, nestled into the mountain;you can explore the terraces and pagodas in thecomplex. Being one of Korea's national treasures,the temple does get busy and here too there is noend to photo opportunities. As impressed as I wasto see genuine Korean craft, I was also a littledisappointed. Right in the central courtyard of thetemple a metal structure has been erected thattowers over all the terraces and totally destroys theview. It is extremely difficult to take a photo of thetemple without this metal monstrosity getting in theway. Unfortunately the structure will remain inplace until 2015.

Of course you exit the temple via the gift shop, butit is worth taking a look. They have a fine collectionof Korean paintings of varying sizes and pricesavailable, along with other souvenirs. If you areinterested in picking up some artwork I wouldrecommend stopping here.

Seokguram Grotto BellBulguksa Pagoda

A short 20-minute bus ride further up the mountainfrom Bulguksa is Seokguram Grotto, where thestatue of Sakyamuni Buddha sits. From here youcan see stunning views of the whole Gyeongjuregion and even see out towards the East Sea.From the entrance it is a short walk through thewoods to the grotto. Seokguram was constructed inthe mid-eighth century from granite that wasquarried in the north and brought to the current siteon a narrow mountain path. Inside the grotto sitsthe Buddha, considered to be the protector of theland as he looks out to the East Sea. Even thoughtourists push and bump each other in the smallspace, all vying for the best view, you can still beoverwhelmed by the beauty of the statue andstone carvings, and the peacefulness inside thegrotto. Seokguram is a must-see in Gyeongju.

Not being too far from Andong you can enjoy thefamous Andong Steamed Chicken, not to mentionthe famous Gyeongju bread that can be boughton every street! In the university area of the citythere are a host of western-style restaurants and theusual array of coffee shops and hof bars.

Overall I would highly recommend Gyeongju. Seewhere it all began and appreciate the natural andhistorical beauty on offer in this ancient city.

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health

Revitalize at Damyang SpaBy Doug StuberPhotos courtesy of Damyang Resort Spa

amyang, well known for its bamboo-linedroads and dozens of organic restaurants,also gives Gwangju a nearby top-notch spa

and resort. A day visit to the spa is a scant 8,000won. The outdoor pool and spa (summer seasononly, from the beginning of July to the end ofSeptember) cost 13,000 won, but it's two pools inone, with a nice deck and chairs to sunbathe in.This warm-weather outdoor pool is the very bestplace to swim laps in the area; it is deep enoughand cool enough to swim for a long time.

But, in the cold weather, the indoor spa, with fourhot Jacuzzi-laden pools on each gender's side iseven better, and only two short bus rides away.(The men and women switch sides daily at the spa,as the two experiences are different.) But is theextra effort of two bus rides worth it, consideringthere are many other “wet spas” in Gwangju?

As a comparison, the Cinus spa in Buk-gu, nearChonnam National University offers three poolsranging from 36 to 44 degrees Celsius, and onecold bath that a polar bear might find chilly. Onlythe cold bath offers a straight-down heavy blastacting as a shoulder massage. There is only onepool with Jacuzzis, and there are only two seats forJacuzzi users, but at 39 degrees the pool is alsoheat therapy. They also have wet and dry saunas,and a heat-lamped area for lying down in. Thelocker room also offers a barber shop and shoeshine. A day visit to the spa costs 4,500 won (4,000won if you buy ten tickets or more).

The Damyang Spa has all of that, plus Jacuzzi jets inevery bath, and a powerful plunging hot-water“waterfall jet” that can work out any shoulder orback muscles' tightness, provided you can withstandits force. It also has a hot pool outside surrounded bybamboo, and gives bathers fresh cool air to breathe,a relief from the super-humid air inside. DamyangSpa calls these “event” pools, and the concept isfairly accurate, as each pool has a different bodypart targeted for Jacuzzi-massage relief.

Damyang Spa has one major health advantage to

offer as well: mineral water. The spa is full ofrevitalizing mineral water, but not the odorous sulfurvariety. Also, as mentioned, the two sides of thespa are considerably different. The same amountof saunas and baths are offered, but theatmosphere changes, both inside and out.

Between the two sides is a full-service Korean-farerestaurant, and a very small convenience store.The restaurant looks out on the outdoor pool, andthus is the site of much family activity in warmmonths.

For those new to public baths, be prepared tohang out in the nude. Anywhere from 20 to 250people might be skipping from one pool to

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another, as the ample locker rooms in Damyanghandle over 300 per side.

The spa opened July 19, 2003 according to hoteland resort manager Park Sang Jin. “FormerPresidents Roh Moo-hyeon and Kim Dae-junghave stayed here, as well as the wife of Lee Kun-hee, the chairman of Samsung Electronics," Jinsaid. "We welcome visitors from all over the world,but Japanese and Chinese people lead the list offoreign guests.” The hotel, with luxury rooms thatare western-style or Korean-style (with or withoutbeds) opened in November 2003, and sports agourmet restaurant.

This cheap getaway starts with a ride on regionalbus 311, which stops at the U-Square bus terminal,out in front where the city busses are. The 311 bus

travels north through town, also stopping at MalbauMarket and many other stations before traveling onto Damyang. Once in Damyang, a bus runs every30 minutes right to the spa. Thus, transportation plusspa fee will come to less than a 3-D movie at CGV.

Staying in the hotel is a wonderful experience, butnot on everyone's budget, as rooms range from157,000 won to 316,000 won on weekdays and174,900 won to 352,000 won on weekends on highseason (May 1 to January 31), depending on sizeand style. The hardest thing about a day visitthough, is having to leave.

For a family of four, Damyang also offers a FamilySpa experience for four hours, which costs 80,000won and comes with a personal TV room and stairsthat directly connect to the swimming pool area.The outdoor pool also has mineral water in it, oneJacuzzi and a winding, river-shaped pool thatchildren and adults can float in on inner tubes. It isopen during good weather.

Damyang Spa opens 365 days a year. In the wintertime, the spa is open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. onweekdays and from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. on weekends.To get a complete look at the facilities you can visitwww.damyangspa.com (in Korean).

Damyang Resort Spa 담담양양리리조조트트온온천천

Address: 399 Wonyul-ri, Geumseong-myeon, Damyang-gun, Jeollanam-doPhone: 061-380-5000 (hotel), 061-380-5111 (spa)

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ecember, with the cold of winter, ends the2012 GIC tour season. An adventurous two-day trip to Yeosu, with an overnight stay in a

seaside temple, provided an exciting finalprogram for the year. Highlights from the tripincluded: the interesting historical legacies ofSeonso and Jinamgwan, the delicious andhealthy vegetarian cuisine, and the mountainousvistas of the South Sea. Together with the greatparticipants that make every tour possible and thehelpful volunteers and staff workers from the GIC,the right elements combined to make anotherenjoyable experience.

Food is always an important part of each GICtour. When traveling, tasting new foods andlearning about the local cuisine allow visitors tohave a better appreciation of the people and theplace. Every destination has a distinct flavor, andthe restaurants are carefully selected to show thisunique character. Naju in April is a perennialfavorite with great sights and great weather not tomention great eating. Hearty beef soup, freshteas, and organic soybean products broughtparticipants to the heart, soul, and stomach ofJeollanam-do.

In September, after a morning of trekking throughMt. Wolchul National park, visitors to Yeongammet an onslaught of a meal starting with slicedfree-range chicken served raw and ending threecourses later with a hot bowl of porridge madefrom the stock of the same bird. One of the most

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GIC Tour Annual Review

Hiking in Mt. Wolchul, Yeongam

By Warren ParsonsPhotos courtesy of GIC

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popular and far out meals of the year was a porkcutlet and pizza set above the waves of the seaby Jindo in October. Eating was an activity initself. Menu items varied and the reactions werealways mixed, but no one ever was left unable tocomment over a full table with good company.

Understanding gives people knowledge,perspective and hopefully an opinion about theplaces they visit. To the chagrin of some and thepleasure of most, each day provided a healthydose of history and culture. In Gochang, with coldspring breezes, eager ears listened to descriptionsof Baekje temple l ife, the history of Dolmenconstruction in pre-historic Korea, and thevicissitudes of invasion and conquest by theJapanese. Guests to Damyang learned about theromantic poetry of exi le and the rusticdevelopments in porcelain ware during the

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Top: Group photo at Mt. Jiri, GuryeAbove: Team game at salt pond experience inYeonggwang. Previous page: Participants making sand castle atMyeongsasimni Beach in Wando

Joseon Dynasty. While on Wando, the charismaticpirate hunter and trader Jangbogo shared hisfantastic stories. Regardless of age, gender, ornationality, all concurred wisdom helps the worldgo round.

Nature is constantly beautiful, and is never left outof a single tour. Mountains and rivers, islands andcoastlines, and farmland with forests fill in the gapsbetweens the cities and villages of the SouthProvince. The heights of Nogodan and Jirisan inGurye enlightened viewers on the most auspiciousday of the Buddha in May. Typhoon rain and windgreeted sun-seekers to Sinji Island and the goldensands of Myeongsasimni beach during the earlyweeks of summer. Children and teenagers inspiredthe older at heart to shed some layers andbarefoot their way over the rocks, through therapid streams of the Wonhyo Valley to cool off inthe midsummer heat on Mt. Mudeung. On WhiteQuartz beach in Yeonggwang, finding somerespite from the late August heat proved to bedifficult, but for some resourceful channeling ofmuddy waters and crusty applications of thegrayish clay.

Given all the excitement of 2012, the next roundof tours in 2013 should provide just as much if notmore. Popular destinations will be revisited withnew twists, and fresh itineraries are in the mix fordifferent challenges in different locations. Look outfor repeat visits to favorite locales such as Naju,Wando and Mt. Jir i , but also for f irst-t imeexcursions to Boseong, Jangheung, Namwon andGoheung in the year to come.

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turmoil in the region and eventual civil war thattore the country apart forced the work to cease.

Nevertheless, my interest lay in exploring theregion's glory days. Getting to Angkor entails goingthrough Siem Reap, a city in Cambodia'snorthwest. After passing through customs, wedeparted in a tuktuk with “Mr. Jim” and drovethrough the city on the way to our room. SiemReap is an interesting place. It is a place full ofcharacter and has many things to do for travelerswho might be “templed out” from Angkor.Standing in at around 150,000 people, the cityheavily depends on tourists from Asia andelsewhere that come to see the Khmer ruins eachyear.

In order to get around for the duration of our stay,my fiancé and I asked Jim to “take us around

Angkor for a few days” and showed him amap of the place. Being an experienced

tour guide and having a strongcommand of English, Jim offered to

drive us to the “important” stops ofAngkor. The former Khmer capital is

huge and requires lots of roadtravel to get around. We barelyscratched the surface, but after15 hours and over two daysdriving around Angkor, wevisited 13 temples in all. Hereare some highlights:

Banteay SreiBanteay Srei is known as

the “Temple ofWomen” and is a

beautiful place.C o n s t r u c t i o n

h e r e

ne small conversation wil l sometimesnudge us toward something big. During aparty while chatting with friends about the

typical places that we expats tend to visit(Thailand, etc.), I met someone on holiday fromCambodia. Working there for some time andteaching English, she focused mostly on helpingwith community development. Her description ofdaily life really captivated me.

In comparison to Korea, she said, “This country iseasy. Down there is a country where people stillunderstand life, which sometimes involves doingwithout.” That conversation really stuck with me.This person really is doing something in a placewhere help is needed, I thought to myself. Some ofus come to Korea to enjoy an easy life and takecertain things for granted. For example, whatwould some of us do without our easi lyacquired electronics and the planet's fastestinternet connection?

I kept digging into Cambodia. Furtherconversations and readings led me tothe storied Khmer Empire, which ruledmuch of Southeast Asia through the15th century. Amid lots of recentspeculation and hypothesizing,nobody really knows whathappened to the Khmer Empire.The empire's vast collection oftemples were re-discovered bya French archaeologist atthe beginning of the 20thcentury and led to a newwave of interest in theKhmer. A templerestoration effortcommenced butstopped in the1960s. The rising

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Angkor: Jewel in the Crown of Cambodia

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By Carl HedingerPhotos by Christina Riley


Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM

began in 967 A.D. and it is thought to be the onlyAngkor temple not commissioned by a king.Thanks to the absolutely vibrant colors andstructures within this complex, it is commonlyknown as the “jewel in the crown of Angkor art.”

Kbal SpeanReaching Kbal Spean was a long but worthwhilejourney. Situated 50 kilometers northeast of Angkor,it is aptly referred to as the “River of 1,000 Lingas”.These stone carvings (Linga) that appear in thewater are everywhere at Kbal Spean. Each Lingarepresents Shiva, whose importance cannot beunderstated in Hindu traditions. The photo on thetop right on the next page represents a “Linga-Yoni,” said to combine the forces of Shiva (Linga)and the goddess Shakti (Yoni).

Preah KhanThis was the last temple we visited on our first dayat Angkor. Preah Khan was one of many 12thcentury temples built for Jayavarman VII. Knownfor its maze of corridors, this complex's massive sizecertainly suggests its importance within the KhmerEmpire.

Angkor WatAngkor Wat is the largest religious complex in theworld. First built as a Hindu temple in the 12th centuryduring the reign of Khmer King Suryavarman II, it waseventually converted to Theravada Buddhism. Thissite is also noted for combining two Khmerarchitecture plans: The “temple mountain” and the“galleried temple.” If you are visiting Angkor but donot want to travel to the many temples in the area,this is definitely the one you should see. Wordscannot fully describe this temple complex, but thewords “awe-inspiring” or “breathtaking” come close.

BayonClose to Angkor Wat, Bayon is a temple in the centerof Angkor Thom (the last and most enduring Khmercapital). It was originally built as a MahayanaBuddhist Temple during the reign of KingJayavarman VII in the late 12th – early 13th century.Over time, Hindu and Theravada Buddhist KhmerKings modified the temple accordingly. The mainattractions here are the many stone faces found onsite.


This page and previous page: Angkor Wat

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


Bayon Kbal Spean’s “Linga-Yoni”

On the way to BaphuonBaphuon: “be careful!”

Bayon

Ta ProhmTa Prohm was built in the late 13th century and islocated two kilometers east of Angkor Thom. It wasfounded as Mahayana Buddhist Temple andUniversity during the reign of Khmer KingJayavarman VII. It is famous for the dominance ofnature over it and also gained fame for itsappearance in the filming of Tomb Raider.

ConclusionAh, if only we could have stayed for more time inSiem Reap and especially Angkor. Even at thetime of writing, I am longing for more time to walkaround Angkor. It was a sad moment when we leftCambodia. The people have such big smiles thatthey use often, and everybody I encountered wasfull of hope and happiness. Though I did notinclude any people in the photos shared here, thistrip was in fact about the people. It is about thegreatness that these people once enjoyed andwill hopefully see again in the future. Cambodia ison the rise and the increased commercialdevelopment that is taking place may changepeople's attitudes as more tourists come calling.Regardless, I will always fondly remember SiemReap and Angkor, and I'm certainly lookingforward to going back.

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM

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IT Training for Disabled Youngsters The 2009 housing and populationcensus showed that only 66.5percent of disabled children agedsix to ten go to school. Nearly 30percent of disabled adults areilliterate whereas thecorresponding rate in non-disabledadults is less than one-half of apercent.Nearly 500 children with disabilitieswill be given an educational boost.The two-year project titled"Enhancing Access and Quality ofInclusive Education of Children withDisability through InformationCommunication Technology" willprovide youngsters aged six to 15with technology designed to meettheir specific learning requirements.This project's main activities focuson applying IT to help disabledchildren with their studies, includingsoftware with screen readers forthe visually impaired, setting upvideo lectures for the deaf andsetting up remote learning modelsfor children who cannot go toschool. The project is planned torun in Ha Noi, HCM City, ThaiNguyen and Quang Binh until theend of 2014. Conducted by theMinistry of Education and Training,the project received nearly US$500,000 supported from the UnitedStates Agency for InternationalDevelopment (USAID) andCatholic Relief Services (CRS).

IrelandBy Patrick Conway

Goodbye 2012! Was it a good or bad year for theEmerald Isle? There are plenty ofobvious negatives: economy stilldown the toilet, soccer teammauled at the Euros and terrorismrefusing to completely go away inthe North. On the upside, Leinsterbrought more European glory inrugby, our new president raisednational spirits and, Mayo peopleexcepted, we all were happy tosee Donegal collect only theirsecond-ever All-Ireland. No visitsfrom queens or presidents thisyear to get us on CNN. Hopes for2013 then? Derry will be a city ofculture and will host the All-Ireland Fleadh. Please God, let itall pass off peacefully.

Reclaiming our MountiesCanada's Royal CanadianMounted Police – more widelyknown as the RCMP, or simply"the Mounties" have longformed part of the iconicimage of Canada. In the pastyear, however, it hadbecome evident that, inaddition to being Canada'snational police force, theRCMP was somewhat of an"old boys club." Many of eventhe highest-ranking womenhave come forward withallegations of a longstandingculture of sexual harassmentwithin the force. Despite theseissues the RCMP have come along way in the past yeartoward instituting a culturechange on all levels. This pastmonth, 20 openly LGBTmembers filmed a ten-minutevideo documenting theirexperiences as LGBT youthand while coming out to theirfriends and families. Actionssuch as these, in support of aninclusive, tolerant andwelcoming society, aremaking Canadians onceagain proud to claim theMounties as their own. Wherewould we be without ournational icons, eh?

CanadaBy Ally Sztrimbely

VietnamBy Nguyen Thi Le Hoa


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health

A History and Use of Ondol:Korea's Traditional Heating SystemBy Andrew SweeneyPhotos by Karina Prananto

he first documented usage of the ondol inKorea's history has been recorded at anarchaeological site in Unggi,

Hamgyeongbuk-do, in present-day North Korea.This particular find of the ondol has been dated asfar back as the Bronze Age, circa 1000 B.C.E.

The word ondol, meaning “warm stone,” was notalways the term used to describe Korea'straditional underfloor heating system. The termgudeul, which has the same meaning as ondol,has been recorded as the term used colloquiallyfor the modern day ondol in Korea for over twothousand years. Korean historians have recordedthe use of ondol in traditional Korean housing,called hanok, as beginning around the end of the19th century.

Korean homes use the ondol heating system towarm their houses against the bitter cold thatresides in Korea during the winter months. Theprimary difference between today's heatingsystems and the original ondol is that today ahomeowner can turn his heating system on by aflick of a switch, whereas traditionally the initialheat would have to be generated by lighting afire. The principles, however, remain the same. Theondol warms a home by transferring heat viaunder-floor flues, or passages.

This system is unique in its method because it heatsa room, or l iving space, from the outside, asopposed to the typical Western-style heatingsystem, which dictates that the heat should comefrom inside the room which you are trying to heat.It achieves this, heating a space from outside,

through its structure. Each part of its structureprovides a specific service; a synergy takes place.Firstly, the heat is created in agungi, a furnace,located in the kitchen, where firewood is burned.The hot air is f i ltered through horizontal f luepassageways that run beneath the room's floor,connecting the burning furnace to the chimneylocated at the opposite side of the house. Hot aircould then move along the flues, heating thestone, ondol and mud floor. For this process tosucceed, two conflicting requirements had to bemet. For the fuel to burn well, its smoke had to passquickly through the flues and go out of thechimney for any heat to generate under the floors.Flues that were straight and short were best for thatpurpose. For the heat from the fire to warm thefloor, however, the hot air and smoke had to stayin the flues as long as possible. To accomplish this,the flues were made to cover the area under thewhole floor, thus preventing the hot air from goingout through the chimney too quickly. Thus, theheat would circulate the room as much as possiblebefore exiting through the chimney.

Dealing with a dangerous element such as firebrought its difficulties, such as the potential for theflames coming from a burning furnace to damagethe house itself. To overcome such a difficulty,Korea's ancestors, remarkably, divided the flamefrom the smoke. The flame would be senthorizontally, against its very nature to rise vertically.This was achieved by having a flue entry locatedbeside the furnace. This was essential as it wouldnot allow the smoke to travel upward, causing theflame to go out too soon. And as the flame wouldpass through the flue entrance, it would be guided

T

The ondol, Korea's traditional underfloor heating system, has not only heated the houses of Korea forthousands of years, it has also, by its very use, shaped and landscaped Korean culture and lifestyle aswe witness and experience it to this very day.

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through the network of passages with the smoke.

Traditionally, the ondol was used primarily for twothings, heating a home and cooking. With thelatter, when a fire was lighted in the furnace tocook rice for dinner, the heat would not only cookthe rice as was expected, but the heat wouldremain inside the home until the next morning,thus keeping the house warm throughout thenight. The smoke, in addition, was put to itsmaximum usage.

Traditional Korean houses, hanok, due to beingconstructed with wood primarily, were extremelyprone to insects, fungi, bacteria and otherworrying hygienic problems attacking a home.However, by lighting a fire, thus causing smoke,the smoke would become a natural sanitizer forthe home, killing germs and bacteria as it filteredthrough the flues. It is incredible to think that theancestors of Korea, thousands of years ago, wereequipped with the knowledge and wisdom to useone of the elements to its full potential, turning anatural danger, fire, into something that bothheats and sanitizes a home all at once.

We cannot but admire the ondol system,particularly if you come from the “Western world”,where the individual home relies on oil, a naturalresource in diminishing supply but in high demand,to heat homes. The ondol also retains more heatthan lighting a fire inside the room you intend toheat. It achieves this as the smoke never entersthe room, it remains in the flues.

On a final note, it cannot be stressed enough justhow pivotal the ondol system was in landscapingKorean culture and lifestyle. This is evidenced thefirst time you arrived in Korea and enter a livingspace or restaurant. The first thing you do is take offyour shoes, and more than likely, you sit down onthe floor. When you become aware of the ondolheating system, it is logical and makes perfectsense as to why Korean people sit on the floor, forthe floor is warmer than the air that is circulatingaround, thus sitting on a chair would not be ascomfortable as sitting on the floor.

The ondol heating system is distinctly Korean. Itdates back to the pre-historic age, and as aconsequence it is embedded into Korean folkloreand tradition. It is remarkable how intuitive andclever Korean ancestors were when creating sucha dynamic piece of architecture. It has also givenadded comfort to one of Korea's unique anddistinctive cultural traits, using the floor as the socialspace, and not a higher table and chairs, to cometogether to talk, eat and share in one another'scompany. This is, I am sure, something we alltreasure about Korea.

Above: Old furnaceRight: Exhaust pipes

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nybody who reads the books section of theNew York Times or The Guardian, or anybook blog, will no doubt be familiar with the

incessant articles talking of the imminent death ofbooks and the book publishing industry as weknow it.

Even if this is true in the western world, and that isdebatable, I have often found myself thinking thatthis does not seem to be the case at all in Korea.The bookstore at the bus terminal is frequentlybusy, with people happily reading books selectedfrom the shelves, as well as actually buying them. Ihave always found it frustrating that the store'sEnglish book section is rather lackluster, for I missbeing able to walk into my favorite bookstore backhome and breathe in all the books. To spend timeperusing, taking books from the shelves, holdingthem, and reading them, is what I enjoy.Bookstores are one of the best places to comeupon books by pure serendipity, as the cover of abook you did not know about might catch youreye. Also, having conversations and sharing yourpassion with the staff, who are more often than notstrangers, but still fellow book lovers nonetheless, iswonderful. Purchasing books from the Internet isconvenient and necessary in Korea, not tomention cheaper, but it is just not the same asshopping in a real bookstore.

Thus, I was both happy and surprised when I heardthat a new secondhand bookstore had recentlyopened up downtown. It is called Aladin andlocated next to the Starbucks/ bookstore, justaround the corner from the YMCA. As well as usedbooks, it sells CDs and DVDs. It's a Korean chainstore, and the Gwangju store opened on October27th. Aladin has had an online store since 1999,and it is one of the biggest online bookstores inKorea, known for its cheap prices and wide rangeof books. The online store sells new and usedbooks, as well as e-books and DVDs. You can find itat aladin.co.kr (in Korean).

A

community

I recently went to the store to have a look. I got tothe entrance and was delighted in seeing thebooks lining the walls. I then descended the stairsto get into the store, which is underground. When Igot to the bottom of the stairs I was immediately inview of the store, which is capacious, brightly lit,and well stocked. For a second I thought it mightactually be a purveyor of new books, as myconnotations of small, cramped, dimly lit usedbookstores were emphatically contradicted.

I was greeted by the sight of people of all ages,from children through to the elderly, sitting attables happily reading books they had taken fromthe shelves right in front of me.

Browsing ThroughAladin's BookstoreWords and photos by Gabriel Ward and Karina Prananto

The exterior of the bookstore in downtown

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Top: Book displays as you enter the bookstoreAbove: The reading corner

I had a look around the store and from what Icould tell there were books of all kinds on theshelves. Sadly, there were not many English books,save a few copies of Harry Potter and a few othertitles, as Aladin has not been open in Gwangjulong. Hopefully they will eventually get a decentsupply in though. Despite the lack of English books,I still really enjoyed having a look around the store.It made me happy to see that people still want toread physical books, even in Korea whereeverybody seems to be attached to a screen ofsome form or another, and wi-fi connections are ininfinite supply. To know that there are stores like theone in Gwangju all over the country, which soundlike they are doing a wonderful trade in usedbooks, is heartening.

The store's opening hours are from 9:30 a.m. to 10p.m. If you are interested in selling your books, takethem along to the store and see what kind of anoffer they will give you. There are a few conditionsthough: the books have to be in good condition,be on their database (which is large), and youhave to register on their website atused.aladin.co.kr (it is all in Korean). Please don'tforget about the GIC library and the regular bookand bake sales though!

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


language study

By Dr. Dave ShafferPhoto courtesy of KOTESOL

For Your ELT Bookshelf

hat does your personal “library” of books onEnglish language teaching (ELT) look like?Or how large is the stock of TESL books that

you have ready access to? From my experiencewith native English-speaking teachers here inKorea, their collection of ELT books is often fewmore than a handful. This is due somewhat to thetransitory nature of the native English speaker inKorea, but the Korean English teacher often hasfew more. This is somewhat astounding to asedentary person like me who adds approximately50 ELT books and 50 academic journals to mylibrary yearly. What is more, the books Englishteachers do have consist of many course books,and teachers' institutions' libraries are often thinlystocked with useful ELT books. This scarcity of ELTresources makes professional developmentextremely difficult for English teachers across thepeninsula.

What I would like to do here is introduce a fewbooks that I think could be quite helpful to manyEnglish teachers for their own professionaldevelopment and for better performance in theclassroom.

How to Teach English (HTE)HTE is written by Jeremy Harmer one of the mostwell-known authors and authorities on teachertraining on the planet. This book is often used as ateacher training text, but is can be also be quiteeasily used for self-study. The 288-page book isdesigned as a practical guide for teachers whoare in the early stages of their careers, but it is alsoan excellent refresher for the veteran teacher. Asthe book is a general introduction to the field ittouches on almost all aspects of teaching: learnersand teachers, learning and teaching, classroommanagement, the language system, teaching thefour skills, lesson planning, using coursebooks,testing, and more. HTE comes with a DVDcontaining videoclips from actual classes andaccompanying activities.

Learning Teaching (LT)As a guidebook for English language teachers, LTtouches on all the major areas of teaching much

like HTE. However, at over 400 pages, LT is able togo into more detail. The strong point of the book isthat it presents a large number of very effectiveactivities and devotes a large amount of the bookin guiding the teacher to create their own activitiescustom-made for their own classes. You will be verypleased with the 20 photocopiable resources thatcan be used for a variety of activities and a varietyof language proficiency levels. This very successfulbook is now in its third edition and comes with anaccompanying DVD featuring a lesson beingtaught as well as demonstrations of particularteaching techniques. The author, Jim Scrivener, iswell-known as an ELT author and teacher trainer,and his notoriety is quickly increasing with recentpublications.

The CELTA Course (TCC)TCC is designed as a CELTA (Certificate in EnglishLanguage Teaching to Adults) preparation course.The CELTA is the most widely taken qualification inEnglish language teaching and TCC is the onlyCELTA preparation course endorsed by CambridgeESOL (English for speakers of other languages), the

W

Teachers Helping Teachers: A classroom activitybeing demonstrated by Nico Lorenzutti at the Nov.10 Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL Chapter meeting.

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


David E. Shaffer is the currentPresident of the Gwangju-JeonnamChapter of Korea TESOL (KOTESOL).On behalf of the Chapter, he invitesyou to participate in the teacherdevelopment workshops at theirmonthly meetings. Dr. Shaffer is a

professor of English at Chosun University, where he hastaught graduate, undergraduate, and postgraduatecourses for many years. He is the recipient of theKOTESOL Lifetime Achievement Award.

BibliographyHarmer, Jeremy. (2007). How to Teach English. PearsonLongman. ISBN-13: 978-1405853095Klippel, Friederike. (1984). Keep Talking: CommunicativeFluency Activities for Language Teaching. CambridgeUniversity Press. ISBN-13: 978-0521278713Lightbown, Patsy, & Nina Spada. (2006). How LanguagesAre Learned (3rd ed.). Oxford University Press. ISBN-13:978-0194422246Scrivener, Jim. (2011). Learning Teaching: The EssentialGuide to English Language Teaching (3rd ed.) .Macmillan. ISBN-13: 978-0230729841Thornbury, Scott, & Peter Watkins. (2007). The CELTACourse - Teacher's Manual. Cambridge University Press.ISBN-13: 978-0521692076Thornbury, Scott, & Peter Watkins. (2007). The CELTACourse - Trainee Book. Cambridge University Press. ISBN-13: 978-8130903118Ur, Penny, & Andrew Wright. (1992). Five-Minute Activities:A Resource Book of Short Activities. Cambridge UniversityPress. ISBN-13: 978-0521397810

Upcoming Gwangju KOTESOL EventsGwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL December Chapter Meeting

Date & Time: December 8 (Sat.), 1:30 p.m.Place: Chosun University, Main Building (Bon-gwan)Featured Workshops(1) Implementing Writing Activities into the English

Classroom in KoreaWarren Merkel (Chonnam National University)

(2) Good Teachers and Bad Coursebooks: Adapting Materials to Fit Your ClassHenry Gerlits (Gwangju University)

Swap-Shop: Share your teaching ideas and activities.Admission: FreeNext Meeting: January 19, 2013 (Sat.)

Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOLWebsite: http://koreatesol.org/gwangjuEmail: [email protected]

provider of the certificate. In addition, coauthorScott Thornbury is a renowned ELT author andteacher trainer. TCC consists of over forty concise4-6 page units. The main areas that this coursebookconcentrates on are classroom teachingtechniques and language awareness. Languageawareness is an area that many native speakers ofEnglish are weak in, but it is an area that Thornburyis especially strong in. TCC was developed forclassroom use; it has both a trainee book and atrainer's manual. For self-study, you will want bothof the 200-page volumes.

The TKT Course (TTC)TTC is the preparation text for the Cambridge ESOLTeaching Knowledge Test (TKT), a qualificationgaining in popularity. But whether you take the TKTor not, this book is an excellent source of teachingknowledge. Much like TCC, TTC consists of morethan 30 compact 3-4 page units. Its forte is that itwas designed for self-study and its heaviercoverage of describing language and languageskills as well as background to language learningand teaching.

How Languages Are Learned (HLAL)There are many books out on languageacquisit ion, but HLAL is both accessible andrelevant to the language teacher. Thoughteachers often think that understanding languageacquisition is for the researcher rather than theteacher, the understanding of both first andsecond language acquisit ion that this bookprovides can very positively impact the languageteacher's techniques and effectiveness. The fourthedition of this popular, award-winning book iscoming out in January 2013.

Keep Talking (KT)Keep Talking is a book choked full of engagingdiscussion activities developed especially forfluency practice. It contains 123 activities of a widevariety of types and proficiency levels. For eachactivity, in addition to describing the procedure,the user is provided with the aim of the activity,proficiency level, type of organization (groups,pairs, etc.), preparation time and materialsneeded, and variations of the activity. A big plus isthe 50-page section of worksheets at the back ofthe book which are to be used with the activities.

These are but a few of the many helpful ELT booksavailable, but they are some of my favorites. For alook at what is available, access ELT publishers'online catalogues, or go to Amazon's book searchand type in “English Language Teaching.” You willfind much to satisfy your ELT needs.

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


literature

Moon In-soo (1945-) was born in Sungju, Gyeongsangbuk-do. He studiedKorean literature at Dongkuk University in Seoul. He made his debut when hewas 42 years old. He published poetry collections such as “All the Roads Inthe World Lead To Home” (1992), “The Horn” (1992), “The Nesting Mountain”(1999), “Shhh!” (2006), “Umbilical Cord” (2008) and “The Sound of Silence”(2012). His prestigious literary awards include the Kim Dal-jin Literary Award(2000), the No Jak Literary Award (2003) and the Meedang Literary Award(2007).

SSeelleecctteedd PPooeemmss bbyyMMoooonn IInn ssoooo Translated by Song Chae-Pyong and Anne Rashid

ShhhI have been to his father's funeral.He told me a story: he, who had passed his sixtieth year, held his father, beyond 90 and helped himurinate. Even though life's important controls had left the old body, his mind was still like a lantern. Afraidthat the old man might feel hopeless, he helped him, half joking and half playing the baby, saying“Father, shhh, shhh, all right, all, right, you must feel good.”When he held his father, it was as if he entered deep into the whole body. When he held his father likethat as though giving back to the body, how much might the old man have tried to shrink himself to makehimself smaller and lighter? His urine thread cut off frequently, but such a long thread that the son againand again tried to tie it down to the earth pitifully, but the father with difficulty might sever it now. Shhh,Shhh! The universe must be quiet.

*In Korean, this word refers to not only a way to make someone hush, but also is used as an onomatopoeia to helpchildren urinate.

쉬쉬

그의 상가엘 다녀왔습니다.환갑을 지난 그가 아흔이 넘은 그의 아버지를 안고 오줌을 뉜 이야기를 들었습니다. 생의 여러 요긴한 동작들이 노구를 떠났으므로,하지만 정신은 아직 초롱 같았으므로 노인께서 참 난감해 하실까봐 "아버지, 쉬, 쉬이, 어이쿠, 어이쿠, 시원허시것다아"농하듯 어리광부리듯 그렇게 오줌을 뉘 다고 합니다.온 몸, 온 몸으로 사무쳐 들어가듯 아, 몸 갚아드리듯 그렇게 그가 아버지를 안고 있을 때 노인은 또 얼마나 더 작게, 더 가볍게 몸 움츠리려 애썼을까요. 툭, 툭, 끊기는 오줌발, 그러나 그 길고 긴 뜨신 끈, 아들은 자꾸 안타까이 땅에 붙들어 매려 했을 것이고 아버지는 이제 힘겹게 마저 풀고 있었겠지요. 쉬,쉬! 우주가 참 조용하 겠습니다.

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


DanglingThe grandmother who lives alone visits the district office. So bent, she looks like a snail.She walks up the alley unbearably slowly, as if licking her life, hiding her hungry belly, folded in upon itself.At the end of the serpentine alleyway, she squats down alone, dangling;she resumes walking and rests again. Below the electric pole, why, a dandelion blossom is yellow. At thebottom, the end of her memory

appears yellow.

Yellow, starved of milk. When are you going to climb over the sky's summit, dangling?

As the kettle's top breaks off, a birds flies away some point in time.

꼭꼭 지지

독거노인 저 할머니 동사무소 간다. 잔뜩 꼬부라져 달팽이 같다그렇게 고픈 배 접어감추며여생을 핥는지, 참 애터지게 느리게골목길 걸어올라간다. 골목길 꼬불꼬불한 끝에 달랑 쪼그리고 앉아 꼭지야,걷다가 또 쉬는데전봇대 아래 웬 민들레 꽃 한 송이노랗다. 바닥에 기억의 끝이

노랗다.

젖배 곯아 노랗다. 이년의 꼭지야 그 언제 하늘 꼭대기도 넘어가랴.

주전자 꼭다리 떨어져나가듯 저, 어느 한점 시간처럼 새 날아간다.

사사랑랑,, 오오래래 통통화화 중중인인 것것

그곳은 비 온다고?이곳은 화창하다.그대 슬픔 조금, 조금씩 마른다.나는, 천천히 젖는다.

Love: Making a Long Distance Phone Call So it's raining over there?It's bright and sunny here.Your sadness dries up little by little.I am slowly getting drenched.

The Moon's Bare FootThe Moon lingers for a long while,and she, too, crosses the river again awkwardlyvia the iron railway bridge.Why are these shoes here?Wearing the clouds, the Moon has been dark for a moment,and is barefoot again.Some woman's feet – they stink.

달달의의 맨맨발발

달이 한참 뭉그적거리다가 저도 한강,철교를 따라 어설프게 건너본다.여기, 웬 운동화?구름을 신고 잠깐 어두웠던 달, 다시 맨발이다.어떤 여자의 발 고린내가 차다.

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM

Dusk

purple grey highlighted pink slow gyration of cool air

against mountain curvesshiver of green and gold

a land without its tiger

a body white like boneagainst

tea dark skinthe breath is mist

risen from water and shared

Gaia

She breathesin tidal pools

the wind stretchesa languid

bodyover empty space

uncovered earth

cool bodiesformed

to one another

soon, she whisperssinks salt lips

against stone

the tide surges inpouring over her.

Nju

to wake incold milkiced pearsbutterfly fingertipsdriftingover underbelliesundercovers“it is not the dawn”staydrink of meit is good

to be unafraid

AA vveerryy sshhoorrtt ccoolllleeccttiioonn ooffppooeettrryyBy Ashe MiddletonPhoto courtesy of photos-for-you.com


Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


always go to Wonder Place with my friends orboyfriend whenever I go shopping inChungjang-dong. The store is three stories tall.

There are vintage styles and unique men's clothingin the basement, basic men's clothing on the firstfloor, and women's styles on the second floor.

Wonder Place features a modern interior designand also unusual and fun furniture throughout thestore.

My favorite thing about the store is the music. Assoon as I open the main door, I hear loud musicwith an exciting beat that makes my heart race.Electronic music is the most popular kind.

When you enter, you can see employeeseverywhere. They reply kindly and are not aburden to customers, which is different from otherstores.

The style and appearance of the staff that workthere is also top notch.

People go there regardless of sex or age becausethere are a variety of styles and lots of uniqueproducts displayed such as bags, accessories, andeye catching shoes.

I

My Korea is a new column which represents the voice of young Korean University students eager to share their stories and experiences.

My Korea

community

Words and photos by Lee Hyemin

Wonder Place

Wonder Place is not expensive considering theluxurious atmosphere of the store. Whencompared to other stores, Wonder Place hassimilar prices.

I recommend that you shop there rather thanother clothing shops because you can buy themost unique items at good prices. In particular,you can buy jeans there that make your legs looka little more beautiful. Even though they are moreexpensive than other shops at around 5,000 to20,000 won more, it is worth it.

Wonder Place is located in Geumnam-ro 4-ga onChungjang Street 50 meters from Zara in a largebrown building. If you know the building, you caneasily find it!

If you want something unique or truly fashionablevintage looks, men and women of all ages canchange their style for the better at Wonder Place.

Wonder Place

Address: 9-1 Geumnam-ro 3-ga, Dong-gu, GwangjuPhone: 062-385-0722Directions: Buses no. 7, 9, 36, 51, 57, 61, 95, 518, 1187and get off at Geumnam-ro 4-ga Station (금남로 4가역)

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM

ark back to the Sound of Music; raindrops onroses, and whiskers on kittens, bright copperkettles and warm woolen mittens, brown

paper packages tied up with strings, what are afew of your favorite things?

Autumn in Korea tops the list amongst some ofmine. The pleasure of taking a long lazy walk in theafternoon, sipping on a delicious toffee-nut latte,and turning on my favorite mellow K-pop like YoonGun while wandering through the park feeling thecrisp breeze: Heaven. The scene becomes evenbetter when the wind picks up and all of a suddenI'm caught in a mini storm of flame colored foliagethat gently floats to the ground. Taking a deepbreath and appreciating the small wonders, couldthis be what Julie Andrews was on about? With allthis amazing inspiration from nature around us it'snot hard to adopt some aspects of it into the waywe dress for this season.

Being inspired and having your imagination setablaze with bright yellow and reds have come justat the right time. Some might want to update totheir closets, or entirely redefine and restructurethem. Go with it, you only live once.

The main color focus for this edition is natural hues,in particular mustard. This color has transitionedamazingly well from spring/summer '12 and is hereto see you through to keep you warm and on trendall winter long. This shock hue took people bysurprise and it is still gaining attention and followers.Even I had my doubts about this being more than afad. My previous train of thought being thatmustard is an accompaniment for hotdogs androast beef, and not the color de jour.

Oh, how my palate has evolved with this warmglowing shade now considered refreshing andplayful. Add it to your wardrobe in sl ightsmatterings and dashes much like you would to ahotdog or in cooking. But always remember thattoo much can overwhelm the palate as well as theeyes. Strive to get the right balance and serve up agreat autumnal Fash-on feast.

FFaasshh--OOnn wwiitthh xxxxll jjjjddpp

By jjdpPhotos by HSHShot on location at Sajik Park, Gwangju

fashion

MMyy FFaavvoorriittee FFaallll TThhiinnggss

H


Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM

The first look I put together is a lightweight mustardutility coat that can be worn as outerwear or just aseasily underneath some layers to add a burst ofcolor. It also works as an element to color-blockwith. This can be achieved by wearing it with abright colored pair of jeans, or downplay it withsome neutral jeans inspired by nature. I havechosen a pair of timber-brown jeans, which is thisfall/winter's update of the traditional light tan chinoof summer. These colors go overwhelmingly welltogether because they form part of nature'spalette and you can't go wrong combining variousshades of browns, dark greens, and even black.

For the second look I have layered a black denimshirt, a standard for 2012, and a mustard sleevelesscardigan. This is more a daytime look, or for whenyou remove your layers but still want to be noticed.Complete the look with a warm wooly hat as it isgetting a bit nippy out. You always want to beprepared to keep your extremities warm..

Finally to keep you really toasty in the approachingweather invest in an all-round durable waterproofcoat for winter. I find that a strong natural neutralcolor such as hunter green works well. This coat is100% cotton. It is specially treated for the elementsis lined with sheep fur on the inside and can belayered with virtually anything. It is also a greattransit ion within the seasons as the l ining isremovable so it can be used for the spring/summerseasons as well. Complete this look by adding

rounded tortoise shell glasses for an indie-inspiredtwist on your fall foliage outings.

I would also suggest that you start preparing nowfor a freezing Korean winter by investing in a pair ofheavy duty boots. Once the cold weather sets inyou will be thankful for dry and warm feet. There isnothing quite as irritating as sub-zero temperatureswhile slipping and sliding around with wet feet.There are some great stores downtown that havean excellent array of boots for the season so beprepared and don't get caught unaware.

Lastly, please don't forget that in the harsherweather, taking care of winter fabrics is also veryimportant. One should always use a delicate fabricsoftener and let clothing dry properly when caughtin a slight flurry or some rain, as your clothes coulddevelop mold. Easier still, take your coat into yourlocal dry cleaners where they will gladly do all thehard work, and you can rest assured that youdidn't mess anything up.

Enjoy frolicking in the foliage, wrap up warmly, andSeason's Greetings!

ClothingMustard Utility Jacket at 8seconds.comBlack denim shirt (Gap) at Shinsegae Department StoreJacket (Giordano) at Shinsegae Department StoreBoots (Guess) Jeans (Calvin Klein) at Lotte Department store Hat & Glasses (TimeZone) at downtown


Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


ehind the Myth" covered the Koreansuperstit ion about "moving day spiritsfol lowing and haunting you on your

moving day" in the October issue. Let's keep itgoing with the scary stuff and reveal some morespooky beliefs: “Korean style” ghosts.

What exactly are Korean style ghosts? There areprecisely four types of ghosts, called "gwishin" (귀신) which are believed to be the spirits of thedeceased who have not fulf i l led their l i fe'spurpose. They are stuck in the afterl ife, st i l lhaunting the living, not able to cross over to "theother side", waiting for their souls to be appeased.The origins of these spiritual beliefs stem fromShamanism, an ancient religion that many inKorea still follow, which deals with spirits in thenatural world. Numerous shamanistic rituals dealwith appeasing these gwishin. Subsequently, thereare many Korean horror films which feature ghostslooking like deathly pale girls wearing whitegowns. Their lips are blood red and they seem tofloat on air. This resembles the ghost called"cheonyeo-gwishin".

Cheonyeo-gwishin (처녀귀신) is the most commonof the four ghosts. She is the virgin ghost, the girlwho could not serve her purpose in life. It was verydifficult to be a woman in early Korean times; herlife would consist of only serving her father, herhusband and her children. If she had failed inachieving her wish and had lifelong resentment,her life would have been meaningless and hersoul would still be stuck in our world. This ghostwears traditional white mourning clothes called"sobok" (소복) and wears her long hair downbecause she does not have the right to wear herhair up, as married women did traditionally. Sheholds a grudge over those who may have causedher harm and continues to haunt them. The Ring is

B“

This series of articles will shed light on some Korean myths, folklore, traditions and superstitions. Every country has their own share of beliefs, fact orfiction, and many foreigners living in Korea are yet to hear or understand the basis of various Korean beliefs as they become apparent.

Behind the Myth: Exploring Korean Tradition

culture

By Stephen Redeker

Korean Ghosts:Fishin' for Gwishin

a film based on an earlier Japanese horror moviewhich features a ghost such as this.

The male equivalent to the cheonyeo-gwishinghost is called the "chonggak-gwishin (총각귀신)".Also known as "mongdal-gwishin” (몽달귀신), he isthe unmarried bachelor ghost. Sometimes thereare shamanistic rituals that aim to unite both formsof ghosts, cheonyeo and chonggak gwishin, sothat they may be married. If successful, their lifewould be completed and satisfied (in a spiritualsense). At peace, they may then be permitted toheaven. In pop culture and films, the female ghostis much more common than the male version.

Some people say drowning is the worst way to die.Well, there's a ghost for that. A mulgwishin (물귀신)is the spirit of someone who drowned; a waterghost. These ghosts are very lonely living in the

A depiction of a cheonyeo-gwishin

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM


cold water where they died, so they may pull youdown into the watery depths if you are not careful.This spirit has led to the Korean term 물귀신 작전¸(mulgwishin jakjeon) which translates to "waterghost tactics". This expression means someone isdragging you down to suffer along with them; aform of sabotage. It's something like the "I'm takingyou down with me" expression.

The ghost named "dalgyal-gwishin" (달걀귀신) mightbe the strangest. It has an egg shape with no eyes,nose, mouth, or even arms and legs. According tolegend, if one sees this egg shaped ghost, they willdie. The ghost has no personality or discernableemotions or origins. This is the deadliest and mostfrightening ghost. Some say this ghost lives in themountains and haunts those who traverse its paths.

Another ghost worth mentioning here is the "NineTailed Fox" ghost (구미호). Long ago, it was believedthat certain animals could obtain human-likecharacteristics. This nine tailed fox is an example, asit can change into a beautiful woman and lure anunsuspecting man to his death (by eating out hisliver). This ghost is mainly seen as an evil spirit, but arecent Korean romantic film called My Girlfriend isa Gumiho (내 여자친구는 구미호) totally changed thatimage. This film, starring Lee Seung-gi and Shin Min-ah, gives a very cute and bubbly depiction of thegumiho ghost. In the movie, the ghost is trying tohave a successful relationship with her boyfriend inorder to fully become a human!

Shin Min-ah as a “nine-tailed fox ghost” or gumihoin the film My Girlfriend is a Gumiho

As in many other countries and cultures, Korea hasits share of unique ghosts which are old beliefscarried down through the centuries. Although notas feared as they were in the past, they still servetheir purposes as entertainment and a glimpse intowhat people once believed to be true. Nowarmed with an education in Korean "ghost lore",many of these popular Korean horror movies mayhave more meaning. How about some Hollywoodremakes with a few gwishin in the plot? Wouldn't itbe great to see a Korean version of Ghostbustersfeaturing all the ghosts mentioned above?

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM

few weeks ago I went along to Asakusa, aJapanese restaurant (above Pho Bay onWedding Street) to celebrate a friend's

birthday. However when we got there, wediscovered that they weren't serving sushi thatevening – which was what my friend wanted toeat – as it was a Thursday.

Disappointed, we wandered down the road toanother establishment called Taisho. I had noticedthe place before, and was happy enough tocheck it out.

Being a Thursday night it was quiet when wearrived, however as a group of around eightpeople we quickly changed that. My firstimpression was that Taisho had a nice vibe to it. Itwas quite dark and small, giving it an intimateambience. The staff were friendly and quicklyarranged a couple of tables next to each other,and we were promptly seated.

To begin with, we ordered a couple of plates ofsushi to share, with a range of salmon, tuna, andbeef sushi. The kitchen was in plain sight, so wecould see the chefs working away, and it wasn'tlong before we were eating delicious pieces ofsushi. There were only eight pieces per plate, andthere were four people to a plate, so it was hardlysubstantial. To be fair, around eight pieces of sushito a plate is pretty standard at Japaneserestaurants in Korea. Still this clearly wasn't going tosuffice as a meal. So we ordered j jambbongnoodles, and another noodle dish (but I am notsure of the name). We ordered another two platesof sushi as we enjoyed the first round.

A

Taisho 타타이이쇼쇼Address: 92 Gwangsan-dong, Dong-gu, GwangjuPhone: 062-233-8570Directions: Buses no. 6, 7, 9, 12, 55, 59, 70, 80, 98, 150, 151 and getoff at Culture Complex (문화전당역)

We did not have to wait too long before ourjjambbong arrived, and we eagerly dug in as bythat stage we were famished. The broth of thejjambbong was amazing and gave the whole disha wonderful flavor. It also had generous amounts ofseafood and vegetables in it, as well as plenty ofnoodles. The other noodle dish took a little longerto arrive, as by this stage the restaurant had filledup (always a good sign), and so the chefs werebusy trying to prepare everyone else's meals aswell. I did not eat as much of that particular dish,as I enjoyed the jjambbong so much.

I would recommend Taisho as an enjoyable placeto eat with a couple of friends. The atmospherewas really good and the food was great. We wereeasily the biggest party in the restaurant, though –the rest of the patrons were only groups of two.From what I hear, Asakusa does quite big sushiplatters that are reasonably priced as far as sushigoes. Furthermore, by all accounts the sushi there isfantastic, so Asakusa is a better bet if you areeating with a larger group of friends. But for a niceenjoyable evening with a couple of friends, Taishois a perfectly good option.

To get to Taisho, go down Wedding Street. If youare walking towards the Kunsthalle, take the streeton your right that has the little square/intersectionon it, where Mix Lounge is. Taisho will be on yourimmediate right when you are looking down thestreet from Wedding Street – you really can't miss it.

Taisho 타타이이쇼쇼

food and drink

Words and photos by Gabriel Ward


Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:35 AM

1. Cut pork and squid into bite-sized pieces along with onions andhot peppers.2. Put Korean hot pepper paste, minced garlic, sugar, starch syrup,soy sauce, and sesame oil in a bowl and mix. 3. Mix the sliced pork and squid with sauce, keep in sauce for 20-30minutes.4. Put cooking oil, marinated pork and squid in a heated pan and fry.5. Sautéed squid and pork with hot pepper paste is done!

Things to prepare Cooking Method

Squid 120g, pork (samgyeopsal) 300g,onion 120g, hot pepper 5g, beansprouts 100g, cooking oil 15ml, Koreanhot pepper paste 15g, minced garlic10g, sugar 15g, starch syrup 10g, soysauce 45ml, sesame oil 15ml

Sautéed Squid and Pork with Hot Pepper Paste 오오삼삼불불고고기기Words and photos by Jo Ara

his food has been catching on among many Koreans as a lunch menu because it is highly nutritiousand furthermore, inexpensive. Squid is a type of mollusk and is mostly caught from the East Sea inKorea. It contains a lot of taurine, which prevents heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes, and

the list goes on. Samgyeopsal is pork, specifically the belly of the pig. Being composed of fat and leanmeat, it is savory and smells good. With regard to nutrition, pork is rich in essential amino acids,polyunsaturated fat and vitamin B, so it decreases cholesterol.

T


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quat, don't sit” should be the rallying cryfor all those wanting better health.

We've been pooping wrong all along. As it turnsouts, sitting while doing the deed is the sneakyculprit in many digestive and colorectal ailmentssuch as hemorrhoids, constipation, colitis andcolon cancer. If you don't suffer from any of theseproblems, you're not yet in the clear;gastrointestinal complications are a quickly-risinghealth risk for people across the globe. Colorectalcancer, for example, now appears among the topfive deadliest cancers for all ethnic groups.

A major contributing factor to this epidemic israpid acculturation, marked by high-fat diets andthe increased use of the Western-style toilet.Dietary failure, especially the lack of fiber, wasonce thought to be the most significant cause ofnearly all digestive and colorectal problems but anew theory, supported and promoted byStanford's gastrointestinal and colorectal cancerdepartments, posits that toilets and toilet postureare the real problem.

In an effort to determine the number one way togo number two, researchers recorded how longand how much effort it took people to do theirbusiness. Volunteers used the loo in three alternate

Squat, Don't Sit By Kristal LeeImages from www.cafe24.com

health

positions: sitting on a standard toilet, sitting on alow toilet, and squatting. Squatting took the leasttime and effort.

The result came as no surprise to some, such asgastroenterologist and co-author of What's YourPoo Telling You? and What's My Pee Telling Me? Dr.Sheth Anish. "There is definitely physiologic sense tosquatting,” Shethm states, "Simply put, it straightensout the colon." Standing pushes the colon againstthe puborectalis muscle, the sling-like bundle offibers that control the anal sphincter and passageof waste. Sitting only partially relaxes the muscle.Squatting fully relaxes the muscle, making for aquick and easy evacuation of the bowels.

Sheth is not the only proponent of squatting; manyexperts argue that most gastrointestinalcomplications stem from the sitting and strainingpeople do on the toilet. For this reason thesquatting method is also recommended forpregnant women, children and people withCrohn's disease. Studies have linked the amount oftime spent of the toilet to the amount of bowelproblems people have.

However, this beckons the question, is it thechicken or the egg? Either way, leave thenewspaper at the kitchen counter and focus all

“S

VVSS

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that brain power you'd otherwise be using to solvethe back page crossword puzzle on proper toiletposture. It will do you a lot more good in the longrun.

Though most of Korea has converted to themodern toilet there are a few strongholds wherepeople still squat - out in the countryside, schoolbathrooms and highway rest stops. But how canyou get in proper anorectal position?

A bench-like platform that wraps around the baseof your toilet, the “Squatty Potty”, was created toallow people to squat at that perfect 35-degreeangle. Worried this stool, no pun intended, will bean interior design faux pas? Worry not my fairbottomed friend, the Squatty Potty comes in threestylish designs: The Squatty Classic, Tao Bamboo,and the Squatty Eco. Starting at $34.95, thesquatties are worth giving a shot. Aligning yourcolon may just be the first step to aligning yourhealth.

Video Link:www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYcv6odWfTM(Video name: Squatty Potty-Toilet Stool: Squattingfor proper toilet posture)

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:56 AM

Community BoardHave something you want to share with the community?Gwangju News’ community board provides a space for the community to announce club’s activity, special events and so on. Please send us the information to [email protected].

Dance Workshop in GIC The dance workshop will be held everyTuesday from 6:30 p.m. by Angie Harley atthe GIC. If you are interested in joining, please contact Angie [email protected]. You will learn basic dance and createdance performance with specific theme inthis workshop.

Sung Bin Home for GirlsSung Bin Home for Girls is looking forcreative/ active/ energetic/ outgoing/enthusiastic long-term volunteers to join inour regular Saturday program. We wouldlike you to give at least two Saturdays permonth. Meet every Saturday at 1p.m. infront of downtown Starbucks. All arewelcome. For more volunteeringinformation please contact Daniel Lister at: [email protected].

2012 Christmas Book and Bake Sale:December 8 from 12 to 5 p.m. at the FirstAlleyway, downtown Gwangju. Allproceeds will be used to helpdisadvantaged children in and aroundGwangju. Read more about this event onpage 19.

Come Try Yoga! Vinyasa/Ashtanga style yoga class (either continuousflow or set series of postures). Email [email protected] for moreinformation and updates!

All levels welcome. Yoga has many benefits including soothing the immunesystem and strengthening/toning the body inside andout. Connect to your breath. Set time in your scheduleto take good care of yourself! 5,000 suggesteddonation if you have it. Money is donated to charity

Sunday Evening Class: 5:30-7:00 p.m. in GIC.Facebook page: Gwangju Yoga

It's coming back. The V-word will be heard again in 2013. . . in Gwangju!The Vagina Monologues

Director Leigh Hellman has started stirring thepot…again. Her efforts to raise awareness aboutstopping violence against women gave Gwangju its firsttaste ever of TVM. For V-Season 2013, V-Day Gwangjuwill be joining "One Billion Rising" by performing TheVagina Monologues in 2013.

Actresses Needed!GJ TVM is looking for actresses! Auditions will be heldduring the winter months. Rehearsal and otherfundraising events occur during the spring. TVM's finalperformance will also be in spring.

Contact the Director via Facebook Group: The VaginaMonologues in Gwangju 2013

Gwangju Inter FCThe Gwangju international soccerteam (Gwangju Inter FC) playsregularly most weekends. If you are interested in playing, e-mail: [email protected] search ‘Gwangju Inter FC’ onFacebook.

Kittens to haveThey are free, but you need tovacinate them. They are Koreanshort hairs. The kittens are 8 monthsold.Contact Lynne at 010-8692-9101 ore-mail [email protected]

Looking for Nature and Wildlife SupportLooking for videographers, interviewers and others toconduct some interviews of nature experts and habitats inSouth Korea. These are unpaid positions.

Needed are:- People to record a few interviews- People to take a day to video some habitat shots- People to translate or to provide captions/subtitles forvideo & interviews- People to help with design and layout of materials formultimedia project coordinated with Cornell University.

If interested please contact Maria Lisak at [email protected].


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Midway between Kunsthalle and theGrand Hotel, across the main street atthe traffic lights from the Crown Bakery.On the 3rd floor of the T World building.

Gwangju Ice Hockey Team Looking for men and women of all ages to join usevery Saturday night from 7:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. atYeomju Ice Rink near World Cup Stadium. If youare interested, contact either Andrew Dunne [email protected] or Chris Wilson at:[email protected]

The Gwangju Photography ClubThe Gwangju Photography Club is a placewhere many different people can meet, shareadvice, give ideas, and practice photography.Every month, the Photography Club goes on aphoto outing to different places around the cityand country to capture the moment andpractice new techniques. Anyone is welcome tojoin the photography group and help share inthe experience. To join the group, searchGwangju Photography Club on Facebook.

Have any questions about living inGwangju?Let us help you! Simply write us an e-mailwith your inquiry [email protected] and ourvolunteers will help you solve your problemsabout anything related to Gwangju.


Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:56 AM

Dec 2012 2012.11.28 11:56 AM

December 2012 #130

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