Decanter Aug15 Piedmont Whites

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DECANTER • August 2015 | 63 PANEL TASTING Piedmont whites The region may be famed for its reds, but native white grapes are thriving alongside international varieties to produce diverse, often underrated wines, finds Ian D’Agata PIEDMONT IS VIEWED, rightly, as a haven of great red wine production, but it also makes a plethora of interesting whites. Not only native white grapes, but international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and, believe it or not, Riesling, thrive in the region. You only need to think of Moscato d’Asti and Asti to realise the region’s white winemaking ability. The native white grapes of Piedmont include Arneis, Cortese, Erbaluce, Favorita and Timorasso, as well as the lesser-known Nascetta and Rossese Bianco, which give, for the most part, high-acid, food-friendly wines that won’t camouflage what you are eating. Those who favour wines made with the likes of Albariño and Verdejo will most likely appreciate these wines, too. Arneis is a great white grape, but often underrated because the wines can be a mixed bag. The best are made in the Roero area, where varied geology and microclimates lead to remarkably different wines, but you’ll also find outstanding Arneis wines made elsewhere in the region. Depending on where the grapes grow, they can be either floral and fruity or pungently minty and mineral. Not by chance, of all of Piedmont’s native white grapes, it is Arneis that is increasingly being planted in California, Oregon, Australia and New Zealand. Cortese adds sparkle Cortese is the grape with which the world-famous Gavi wines are made. The best are from grapes grown around Rovereto (chalk-laced soils) and Tassarolo (soils richer in clay), but fine wines are also made elsewhere in Piedmont. Poor wines can be thin and tart. On the other hand, it’s the high acidity that explains why there are also some very fine sparkling wines made with Cortese. Erbaluce is a lovely grape, making some of Italy’s daintiest dry wines. High in acid, great sparkling wines and even better sweet wines of real complexity are possible. In fact, it is the only native Piedmontese white grape from which world-class sweet wines are produced. Timorasso differs from all of Piedmont’s other native white grapes in that it produces richer, fuller-bodied wines, at times similar to dry, Pfalz-style Rieslings in their diesel-fuel, mineral and tactile characteristics. Some wines are more about ripe orchard fruit than flinty minerals, so knowing the producer is key. Nascetta is an up-and-coming, semi-aromatic white grape originally grown only around the town of Novello (better known for Barolo production), where wines labelled Anas-Cëtta del Comune di Novello are produced. The grape’s intense herbal and citrus profile has rapidly gained in popularity, and the variety is being increasingly planted all over the region. Last but not least, Rossese Bianco is but one of three Rossese Bianco varieties grown in Italy. Piedmont’s version expresses delicate notes of lemon-lime and white flowers. Piedmont whites: know your vintages 2014 One of the poorest in memory – almost non-stop rain at harvest. Happily, wines are low in alcohol. 2013 A cool spring and a hot summer made for flavourful, deep white wines of real personality. 2012 Huge winter snowfall ensured plenty of water reserves during the torrid summer months. White wines of power, not unlike 2003 and 2007. 2011 A year of low yields. The extremely hot summer made for high alcohol. White wines more powerful than usual. 2010 A cool and rainy spring, with more rain in early August, threatened overall wine quality, but the rest of the season’s very fine weather ensured production of fruity, high-acid, deep white wines. Map: Maggie Nelson N Po Po Tanaro Dora Baltea Tanaro Limit of Piedmont wine region Limit of Piedmont wine region Asti Alessandria Alba Bra Acqui Terme Casale Monferrato PIEDMONT Other wine regions Turin Gavi Tortona Vercelli 1 3 2 4 Piedmont whites 1 2 3 4 Erbaluce di Caluso Roero Colli Tortonesi Gavi kilometres 0 10 20 30 Limit of Piedmont region ITALY CORSICA FRANCE Ligurian Sea Po Adriatic Sea Marseille Monaco Milan Florence Venice Trieste Turin Asti SWITZERLAND PIEDMONT Ian D’Agata is a regular Decanter contributor who also writes on Italian wine, among others, for International Wine Cellar Piedmont whites: the facts Plantings in hectares; increasing/decreasing over last decade (2010 data)* Arneis 970ha, increasing; Cortese 2,800ha, slightly decreasing; Erbaluce 287ha, slightly decreasing; Nascetta 21ha, increasing; Rossese Bianco 7ha, increasing; Timorasso 68ha, greatly increasing (*Ian D’Agata, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, 2014)

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Tenuta Roletto - Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG 2014 Highly Recommended from Decanter experts

Transcript of Decanter Aug15 Piedmont Whites

Page 1: Decanter Aug15 Piedmont Whites

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PANEL TASTING

Piedmont whitesThe region may be famed for its reds, but native white grapes are thriving alongside international varieties to produce diverse, often underrated wines, finds Ian D’Agata

Piedmont is viewed, rightly, as a haven of great red wine production, but it also makes a plethora of interesting whites. not only native white grapes, but international varieties such as Chardonnay, sauvignon Blanc and, believe it or not, Riesling, thrive in the region. You only need to think of moscato d’Asti and Asti to realise the region’s white winemaking ability.

the native white grapes of Piedmont include Arneis, Cortese, erbaluce, Favorita and timorasso, as well as the lesser-known nascetta and Rossese Bianco, which give, for the most part, high-acid, food-friendly wines that won’t camouflage what you are eating. those who favour wines made with the likes of Albariño and verdejo will most likely appreciate these wines, too.

Arneis is a great white grape, but often underrated because the wines can be a mixed bag. the best are made in the Roero area, where varied geology and microclimates lead to remarkably different wines, but you’ll also find outstanding Arneis wines made elsewhere in the region. depending on where the grapes grow, they can be either floral and fruity or pungently minty and mineral. not by chance, of all of Piedmont’s native white grapes, it is Arneis that is increasingly being planted in California, oregon, Australia and new Zealand.

Cortese adds sparkleCortese is the grape with which the world-famous Gavi wines are made. the best are from grapes grown around Rovereto (chalk-laced soils) and tassarolo (soils richer in clay), but fine wines are also made elsewhere in Piedmont. Poor wines can be thin and tart. on the other hand, it’s the high acidity that explains why there are also some very fine sparkling wines made with Cortese.

erbaluce is a lovely grape, making some of italy’s daintiest dry wines. High in acid, great sparkling wines and even better sweet wines of real complexity are possible. in fact, it is the only native Piedmontese white grape from which world-class sweet wines are produced.

timorasso differs from all of Piedmont’s other native white grapes in that it produces richer, fuller-bodied wines, at times similar to dry, Pfalz-style Rieslings in their diesel-fuel, mineral and tactile characteristics. some wines are more about ripe orchard fruit than flinty minerals, so knowing the producer is key.

nascetta is an up-and-coming, semi-aromatic white grape originally grown only around the town of novello (better known for Barolo production), where wines labelled Anas-Cëtta del Comune di novello are produced. the grape’s intense herbal and citrus profile has rapidly gained in popularity, and the variety is being increasingly planted all over the region.

Last but not least, Rossese Bianco is but one of three Rossese Bianco varieties grown in italy. Piedmont’s version expresses delicate notes of lemon-lime and white flowers.

Piedmont whites: know your vintages

2014 one of the poorest in memory – almost non-stop rain at harvest. Happily, wines are low in alcohol.

2013 A cool spring and a hot summer made for flavourful, deep white wines of real personality.

2012 Huge winter snowfall ensured plenty of water reserves during the torrid summer months. white wines of power, not unlike 2003 and 2007.

2011 A year of low yields. the extremely hot summer made for high alcohol. white wines more powerful than usual.

2010 A cool and rainy spring, with more rain in early August, threatened overall wine quality, but the rest of the season’s very fine weather ensured production of fruity, high-acid, deep white wines.

map

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Po

Po

Tanaro

Dora

Baltea

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Limit ofPiedmontwine region

Limit of Piedmontwine region

AstiAlessandria

AlbaBra

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Turin

Gavi

Tortona

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Erbaluce di CalusoRoeroColli TortonesiGavi

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LigurianSea

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Marseille

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PIEDMONT

Ian D’Agata is a regular decanter contributor who also writes on Italian wine, among others, for international wine Cellar ➢

Piedmont whites: the factsPlantings in hectares; increasing/decreasing over last decade (2010 data)*Arneis 970ha, increasing; Cortese 2,800ha, slightly decreasing; Erbaluce 287ha, slightly decreasing; Nascetta 21ha, increasing; Rossese Bianco 7ha, increasing; Timorasso 68ha, greatly increasing(*ian d’Agata, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, 2014)

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Piedmont whites

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The resultsthe lack of any outstanding wines was probably down to the difficult 2014 vintage, but don’t let that put you off buying these characterful, food-friendly whites, said our panel. Amy wislocki reports

The tasters’ verdicts

‘tHis wAs A fascinating tasting, covering some really interesting grape varieties,’ said a contented michael Garner. ‘it’s a shame that most were from the difficult 2014 vintage. in the circumstances we had many very good examples of each grape variety, even if there was no absolute standout wine. i’d love to do a tasting in a really good vintage, to gauge the true potential.’

wine lovers looking for something beyond the usual international grape varieties should make a beeline for these wines, said Andrea Briccarello. ‘i really appreciate the fact that these are varietal wines, and not blended with sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. You can feel the respect for the varieties.’

the 10 Highly Recommended wines encompass many of the varieties featured, of which Arneis and Gavi will be most familiar to consumers. ‘Arneis is hard not to like, with its soft acidity, glycerol mouthfeel and effusively peachy fruit flavours,’ said d’Agata. ‘the style can vary though, depending on where it’s grown, from floral and fruity to minty and mineral. the best wines are from Roero, but even within that area you find different

The scores100 wines tasted

0Outstanding

10Highly recommended

84Recommended

5Fair

1Poor

0Faulty

styles, as part of it is on sandy soils and part on clay.’ Garner praised the way that Arneis combines richness and freshness and said it is unfairly maligned: ‘it has got a bad rap, because it can be so effusively fruity that no one takes it seriously, and when it’s bad, it’s bad. But it’s the most interesting white grape in Piedmont.’ it’s also very versatile when food matching, observed Briccarello: ‘Arneis has an extra gear over Cortese (Gavi),’ he said. ‘Cortese is an easy match with seafood, whereas Arneis can take stronger flavours.’

Briccarello and the other tasters were also taken with timorasso. ‘it’s the hottest variety in Piedmont right now, and can be almost dry Riesling-like, with diesel and herbal notes,’ commented d’Agata. ‘it’s a nightmare to grow as grapes within the same bunch ripen at different

‘Arneis has a bad rep, but it’s

the most interesting white

grape in Piedmont’ Michael Garner

Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is head sommelier at Galvin La Chapelle. He was previously group sommelier and wine buyer for Corrigan’s Mayfair, Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill, and Lindsay House. He has also worked at Michelin-starred Umu. In 2009, he was named Sommelier of the Year by Taste of London, and was the winner of the Wines of Roussillon Dessert Trophy in 2010.

Briccarello’s verdict‘overall, the tasting was extremely positive. As a proud Piedmontese, born and bred, i was pleasantly surprised to see so many native grapes and not international varietals. the stars were definitely the timorasso, Arneis and Favorita. timorasso impressed me for the structure, similar to a Riesling, and also the great ageing potential. Arneis is the cheeky, versatile grape that goes well with food, from fish to light meats. And Favorita is great for aperitifs and light, funky wines for all occasions.

‘i was also glad to see Anas-Cëtta: a variety, nascetta, almost extinct, that gives wines of great terroir and minerality. the slight downside was the Gavi, but that was due mainly to the vintages and the slight residual sugar in the wine to counterbalance the sharp acidity.

‘it was a great window of opportunity to see how these wines are ageing, thanks to some examples of 2011 and 2012 exhibiting great complexity and little or no oxidation. i was particularly surprised by the friendly alcohol level, sometimes as low as 11% – rare these days – which makes these wines very food-friendly and an ideal start to any meal.’

Ian D’Agata D’Agata is a DWWA Regional co-Chair for Italy and was named Italy’s best wine journalist 2012 by the Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia. He is an award-winning author of the ecco Guide to the Best wines of italy, and of native wine Grapes of italy, as well as being scientific advisor to Vinitaly International and director of the Vinitaly Academy.

D’Agata’s verdict‘it was a wonderful tasting overall, full of delicious wines, even though many were from the less-than-stellar, very rainy 2014 vintage. there was much to like: fresh, crisp whites that were almost all unoaked and with very low alcohol levels (many at 11.5%-12% abv), but lots of flavour. some wines were a little thin and short on personality, but the poor vintage contributed to that.

‘i got the sense that the Arneis wines were the best, but as usual with this variety, the offer is mixed; to pick safely, you need to know which are the best producers. timorasso performed well too, though not as exceptionally as one might expect from what many believe is one of italy’s greatest white grapes. the erbaluce wines revealed superior winemaking (there are few poor winemakers in the Caluso area, where it grows), and deserve to be better known. And the wines made with the semi-aromatic nascetta would surely have scored higher in a better vintage: all the raw materials are there for something special. the line-up of Favorita wines here also proved very strong and interesting.’

Michael Garner Garner has worked in the wine business for more than 30 years and has specialised in Italian wine for more than 25 of them. He is the co-author of Barolo: tar and Roses, writes and judges frequently for decanter and has also taught for the Wine & Spirit Education Trust.

Garner’s verdict‘such an encouraging tasting, given

that some 70% of the wines were from the difficult 2014 vintage (lots of rain and little sunshine). standards were very high and showed that Piedmont has some great whites, as well as its more famous reds. it was a pleasure to taste a wide range here, especially the comparatively rarely seen erbaluce di Caluso and Colli tortonesi timorasso which, along with Roero Arneis, probably stole the show.

‘there was a broad array of styles: from the ripe and accessible, earlier-maturing wines associated mainly with the Roero (Arneis and Favorita), through to the richly flavoured and intense wines from erbaluce and timorasso grapes, and finally the leaner, high-acid wines from Cortese and Gavi. Cortese – the most popular and widely planted white grape in the region – was perhaps least impressive overall, although some examples of Gavi were very good.

‘if the trend towards working with native varieties continues and distribution of the lesser-known lights improves, then Piedmont may have some superstar whites to set alongside its red wines.’

times, and so many producers gave up on it 40 or 50 years ago. But now it’s having a quality revival.’

‘Historically i haven’t been keen on Favorita, as i think vermentino in Liguria and sardinia is more interesting,’ said d’Agata, turning to another of the varieties tasted. ‘But it’s come on in leaps and bounds. i’d gladly drink most of the examples we tasted today as an aperitif. ‘they’re very fresh, and the alcohol is low – we had a litany of wines at 12% and 12.5%. overall quality was very high, too.’

Any disappointments? d’Agata highlighted the Gavi flight, which suffered also from the lean vintage style. ‘Cortese at high yields can be really acidic with no great character.’ Briccarello also observed that some were off-dry, which can be unexpected. to find the interesting examples, look to Roveretto or tasserello, d’Agata advised.

Lastly, don’t overlook erbaluce, he urged. ‘it’s a delicate wine which can be nondescript at high yields. But from the good producers in Caluso it’s a wine of sneaky concentration and good flavour definition – dainty white flowers, stone fruit, a hint of mint.’ ‘sadly, it’s a rarity, but it has great potential,’ echoed Garner. ‘make the effort to seek it out.’

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit the latest releases available in the UK of dry, still whites made from native Piedmont grape varieties Deltetto, Favorita Servaj, Langhe

2014 Decanter average score: 17.25/20pts (90+/100pts)Individual judges’ scores: Andrea Briccarello 17 Ian D’Agata 17 Michael Garner 17.5

£12.32-£12.95 Exel Wines, Hawkshead Wines,

Liberty Wines, Slurp

Lime and lemongrass infusion, with citrus undertones. very zingy and exotic, with great acidity. Quite full, round, with nutty and herbal aromas and a long, vibrant finish. Drink 2015-2017 Alcohol 12.5%

Highly Recommended17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Cascina Montagnola, Morasso, Colli Tortonesi 2011 17 (90) AB 16.5 IDA 17.5 MG 17

PoA Wine Paradiso

intensely mineral, almost diesel-like notes mix with botanical herbs and fresh citrus. Full, ripe and buzzing flavours of fresh-cut pineapple acidity and Brazil nuts. A long, nutty finish. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 15.5% ➢

Batasiolo, Roero Arneis 2014 17 (90) AB 17 IDA 17.25 MG 17

£11.75 Mondial Wine

Broad, fresh pear and melon aromas with delicate floral notes. Juicy orchard fruit with mango and pineapple. Rich and intense with good balance and a long finish. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 12.5%

Orsolani, La Rustìa, Erbaluce di Caluso 2014 17.25 (90+) AB 16.5 IDA 17 MG 18PoA Mille Gusti

Fresh mint and salinity, with lots of orchard fruit, some baked apple notes and a hint of beeswax. Balanced and juicy, with pretty, mineral-toned flavours. delicious. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 12.5%

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Ferrando, Cariola, Erbaluce Di Caluso 2014 17 (90) AB 17 IDA 17.25 MG 17

£16.50 Astrum Wine Cellars

very fresh lemon peel and lime notes, with hints of lemongrass. Full and juicy, with crisp acidity and fresh herbal flavours. sneaky complexity, with minerality and a long-lasting aftertaste. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 12%

Malvirà, Trinità, Roero Arneis 2013 17 (90) AB 17 IDA 17.25 MG 17

£15.99 The Sampler, The Secret Cellar

Broad and full, with spicy-toned fruit-salad aromas. Fresh and citrussy, with plenty of pineapple and greengage notes on the back, as well as white peach nuances. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 12.5%

La Giustiniana, Lugarara, Gavi di Gavi 2014 17 (90) AB 17 IDA 17 MG 17

£14.88-£16.99 Carruthers & Kent, Exel Wines,

Hawkshead Wines, Liberty Wines, Slurp, The Secret Cellar

Fresh with citrus blossom aromas, delicate and pretty. Rich and ripe, but with lots of juicy acidity. Light on its feet, with plenty of mineral and citrus notes. Crisp, with good length. Drink 2015-2021 Alc 12.5%

Marco Porello, Favorita, Langhe 2014 17 (90) AB 17 IDA 17 MG 17

£10 Winetraders

Flowers, white peach and fresh herbs on the nose. Forward and quite full, with juicy fruit flavours of pineapple and banana. very fresh and crisp on the end, with a hint of salinity. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 12.5%

Malvirà, Saglietto, Roero Arneis 2012 17 (90) AB 17 IDA 17 MG 17

£15.99 Tria Wines

Broad, ripe and full, with integrated oak aromas. mineral and savoury, with a very tactile mouthfeel. Lovely cleanliness and bite. Grown-up Arneis, with plenty of Burgundian references. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 13%

Roletto, Erbaluce Di Caluso 2014 17 (90) AB 17 IDA 17 MG 17

£14.50 Sardinian Wines

Fresh and enticing, with aromas of pear, flint and flowers. Juicy ripe flavours, with nutty tones and good balance. Fresh and lemony on the long, saline finish. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 12%

Highly Recommended 17–18.25pts (90–94pts)

Recommended 15–16.75pts (83–89pts)

Cascina Montagnola, Dunin, Colli Tortonesi 2013

16.75 (89)

16.5 17 17 Fresh, lemony acidity, with lingering notes of chamomile and honey. Broad, intense and limey, with slate and stoney flavours. Green apple finish.

14% 2015-2020

PoA Wine Paradiso

Claudio Mariotto, Derthona, Colli Tortonesi 2013

16.75 (89)

16.5 16.5 17 Beautiful golden colour, with honey and tropical fruits on the nose. Ripe, with concentrated flavours of stone fruits and strong mineral notes.

14% 2015-2022

£18.50 (2010)

Vinoteca

La Battistina, Nuovo Quadro, Gavi di Gavi 2014

16.75 (89)

17 16.75 16.5 Fresh nose with marzipan notes and stone fruits. Quite round and ripe, with light pineapple flavours and herbal tones. A creamy finish.

11.5% 2015-2017

£10.45 Amps, Boutinot, Corks Out, D.Byrne & Co, Hawkshead, Hennings, Slurp, The Butler's Wine Cellar, The Sampler

La Scolca, Gold, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.75 (89)

16.5 17 17 watermelon and cucumber notes on the nose followed by a dry, crisp, mineral palate. Fresh, lively and juicy. Flinty and poised.

11% 2016-2020

£17 Christopher Piper, Eurowines, Hollies Farm Shop, Swift Wines, Valentina Fine Foods, Viader Vintners

Nicola Bergaglio, Minaia, Gavi di Rovereto 2014

16.75 (89)

16.5 17 16.5 exotic, with nectarine, apricot and guava. Zingy fresh fruit with fair acidity and delicate, herbal-toned finish. Great structure and complexity.

12% 2015-2019

£14.95 Great Western Wine, Harper Wells, Hawkshead, Pall Mall Wines, Slurp, The Wine Cellar

Terre Antiche di Giustiniana, Gavi di Gavi 2014

16.75 (89)

16.5 17 16.5 Lovely flowers and a touch of vanilla bean on the nose. Lively acid with nuts, roses and violets. Crisp finish and mineral undertones.

12% 2015-2017

£11.99 Exel Wines, Liberty, Oddbins

Terre da Vino, Masseria dei Carmelitani, Gavi di Gavi 2014

16.75 (89)

16.5 17 16.5 Fresh almond paste and yellow apple nuances. Ripe mouthfeel, with hints of lilies and roses. Perfumed and seductive.

12% 2016-2018

£12.78 Widely available via UK agent Vinum

Araldica, Elisa, Gavi 2014 16.5 (88)

16.5 17 16 Grassy and green, with hints of minerality. Ripe apple and pear. Zingy and fresh, with fair balance and a lemon freshness.

11.5% 2015-2018

£10.49 Virgin Wines

La Monetta, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.5 (88)

16.5 17 16 Clean, fresh and pure, with good lemony zip to the orchard fruit and minty flavours. Light and fresh, with peachy and kernel flavours. Zingy finish.

11.5% 2016-2020

£10.99 Waitrose

Deltetto, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.5 (88)

16 16.75 16.75 Green grass with nettle and citrus notes. medium, full with juicy fruit flavours, balanced acid and a long, flinty finish.

12% 2016-2020

PoA Decorum

Fontanafredda, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.5 (88)

16.5 16.5 16.5 Fresh, nutty and herbal aromas of medium intensity, with hints of nectarine. Clean, straightforward and enjoyable. Finishes with a hint of almond paste.

12.5% 2015-2020

£13.95-£14.95

Alexander Wines, Carruthers & Kent, Great Western Wine, Hawkshead, Nicolas Spirited Wines, Slurp, Village Wines

Fratelli Antonio & Raimondo, Gavi di Gavi 2014

16.5 (88)

17 16.25 16 muted mineral nose with plenty of fresh, vibrant pineapple acidity. Floral and clean, long and lovely. touch of carbon dioxide for added freshness.

12.5% 2015-2019

£11.75 Corney & Barrow

Giacosa Fratelli, Roero Arneis 2014 16.5 (88)

17 17.25 15.5 Quite spicy, toned liquorice and tinned-pear aromas. solid mid-palate with ripe melon and cucumber. Lovely balance, finishing with mint and stone-fruit.

12.5% 2015-2017

PoA Coe Vintners

La Chiara, Gavi di Gavi 2013 16.5 (88)

16.5 16.5 16.5 Flinty mineral and citrus, with plenty of tropical notes and grapefruit acidity. Light and lively. tactile and peppery on the finish.

12.5% 2016-2019

£11.95 Tanners Wines

Wine Score AB IDA MG Tastingnote Alc Drink Price Stockists

Piedmont whites

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Recommended (continued) 15–16.75pts (83–89pts)

Bel Colle, Favorita, Langhe 2013 16 (86)

16 16.25 15.5 melon and ripe pear notes on the mid-palate followed by roasted pineapple. Full and ripe, though rather soft-centred.

13.5% 2015-2016

£11.94 Mondial Wine

Brjnda, Le Faville, Roero Arneis 2014 16 (86)

16.5 16.75 14.5 Hints of balsamic and sweet spices, with zingy acidity and chamomile at the back. Fresh and vibrant with undertones of greengage.

13.5% 2015-2017

£15-£18.90

ItalianWines.com, Vini Italiani

Castello di Tassarolo, Il Castello, Gavi 2014

16 (86)

16 16.5 15.5 very spicy notes to the apple and fresh citrus aromas and flavours. Lemony fresh and almost tart at the back. Great length.

12.5% 2015-2020

£7.84 Costco

Ceretto, Blangè Arneis, Langhe 2014 16 (86)

15.5 16.75 15.5 Lovely, clean, long, lots of nectarine and white peach. slight fizz with hints of grass, almost like a sauvignon. Fair balance and length.

13% 2015-2017

£24 The Wine Club

Claudio Mariotto, Cavallina, Colli Tortonesi 2013

16 (86)

16 16 16 Fat, luscious and peachy, with waxy and floral notes. Good acidity and a creamy texture. elegant, with plenty of character and body.

14% 2015-2020

PoA FMV Wines

Cornarea, Roero Arneis 2013 16 (86)

16.5 16.25 15.5 touch of earthiness to the aromas. Flavours of ripe citrus and baked apple. very charming and attractive, with a candied ginger finish.

13% 2015-2017

£16.50 Berry Bros & Rudd

Deltetto, Daivej, Roero Arneis 2014 16 (86)

16.5 16.75 15 Herbal and earthy, with notes of anise and fennel. Great freshness and balance. Plenty of mineral undertones.

13% 2015-2017

£13.95 (2012)

Uncorked

Dezzani, Monfrigio, Roero Arneis 2014 16 (86)

15.5 16.5 16 minty and mineral on the discreet nose, then richer and more tactile on the palate. Fresh, ripe and quite juicy, with light floral-toned flavours.

12.5% 2015-2017

£12.50 Buy Fine Wines, Eurowines, Inverarity Morton, Valentina Fine Foods

Giacomo Fenocchio, Roero Arneis 2014

16 (86)

17 16.25 15 Fennel and quinine on the nose, then orchard fruit and sweet botanical herbs. Good mid-palate and a well-balanced saffron finish.

13% 2015-2016

£13.46- £16.99

Exel, Selfridges

La Battistina, Gavi 2014 16 (86)

16.5 16.25 15.5 Clean and fresh on the nose, then a little earthier and coarse on the palate. Feels ripe, with melon, apricot and flower notes.

11.5% 2015-2019

£9 Amps, Boutinot, Drink Monger, Hawkshead, Highbury Vintners, Hoults, Momentum Wines, Slurp, Woodwinters

La Giustiniana, Montessora, Gavi di Gavi 2013

16 (86)

16 16.25 15.5 Fresh nuts and pineapple. Zingy marzipan flavours, with high residual sugar to finish.

12.5% 2015-2020

£18.83-£23.99

Exel Wines, Harrods, Hawkshead Wines, Hedonism Wines, Slurp, Toke's, The Wine Reserve, Valvona & Crolla

Michele Chiarlo, Rovereto, Gavi di Gavi 2013

16 (86)

15 16.25 17 Floral-toned nose with hints of saffron and chamomile. Crisp mineral and citrus flavours, with some length and a citrus finish.

12.5% 2015-2018

£15.25-£18.99

All About Wine, Great Wines Direct, Nickolls & Perks, Noble Green Wines, Strictly Wine, The Drink Shop

Monchiero Carbone, Favorita, Langhe 2014

16 (86)

16 16.5 15.5 Fresh, simple, clean. Hint of thyme and chamomile to go along with delicately balsamic herbs and minerals. well-balanced acidity. Lip-smacking finish.

12.5% 2015-2017

PoA Bianca Trading

Negro, Serra Lupini, Roero Arneis 2014

16 (86)

15.5 17.25 15.5 Beautiful nose of minerals and orchard fruit. Fresh, ripe and full, with juicy and fleshy fruit flavours, though some green notes too.

13% 2015-2018

£13.50 Caviste, Exel, Great Western Wine, Le Vignoble, The Wine Stand, Wapping Wines

Orsolani, Vignot San Antonio, Erbaluce Di Caluso 2011

16 (86)

16 16.75 15.5 Bright, lively, with balsamic herb nuances complementing apple and pear. Round and full, with stoney and slate flavours plus a note of saffron.

13.5% 2015-2017

PoA Mille Gusti

Pio Cesare, Gavi 2014 16 (86)

15.5 16.25 16 Green apple and wood smoke, with a saline edge. very mineral and crisp, with good acidity and a zingy finish. Lots of lime and pine nuts.

12.5% 2015-2018

£14.99-£16.88

MMD, Partridges of Sloane Square, Portland Wines, Roberson, Whitebridge Wines

Roberto Sarotto, Bric Sassi della Maddalena, Gavi di Gavi 2013

16 (86)

15.5 16.25 16 Fresh-cut melon and cucumber, with ripe pear and peaches. Light but balanced palate. Zingy, fresh pineapple fruit flavours.

12.5% 2015-2018

£12.50 Berry Bros & Rudd

Tacchino, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16 (86)

16 16.25 15.5 Quinine, fennel and chamomile mingle with apple and pear in this very fresh, crisp white that finishes with a slightly bittersweet lemony note.

12% 2015-2021

£12.75-£12.99

Ellis Wharton Wines, Garrigue Wines, Virgin Wines

Villavecchia, Gavi 2014 16 (86)

16.5 16.25 15 Fresh, clean and simple, but bright and juicy, with apple and pear aromas. very ripe and intense, with plenty of concentration and length on palate.

12% 2015-2017

£11.57 Coe Vintners

Broglia, Bruno, Gavi di Gavi 2013 15.75 (85+)

15 16.25 16 Herbal and green notes on the nose, with hints of wintergreen and herbs. Leafy flavours of peach kernel and pine nuts.

12.5% 2015-2020

£14-£24.95

AC Gallie, Berkmann, Exel, Hawkshead, Love Wine, Slurp

Broglia, La Meirana, Gavi di Gavi 2014 15.75 (85+)

16 15 16.5 exotic fruits followed by melon and nettle freshness. Bright fruit flavours with nutty tones. Clean, balanced and long.

12.5% 2015-2018

£9.20-£15.95

AC Gallie, Berkmann, Exel Wines, Hawkshead Wines, Love Wine, Slurp

Ca' Du Russ di Marchisio, Costa Delle Rose, Roero Arneis 2014

15.75 (85+)

16.5 16.5 14.5 Grapefruit and pear on the nose, which is richer than usual for Arneis. very well-balanced palate with plenty of character and crisp notes.

13% 2015-2016

£19.90 Vini Italiani

Cordero di Montezemolo, Arneis, Langhe 2014

15.75 (85+)

15.5 16.75 15 Blossom and peach nose, with ripe stone fruit and melon. intense, rich and complex, but lacks a bit of freshness.

13% 2015-2017

PoA Buy Fine Wines, Eurowines

Fratelli Alessandria, Favorita, Langhe 2012

15.75 (85+)

15 16.5 15.5 very mineral, with grassy and nutty notes. Round and soft with nutty, ripe yellow-fruit flavours. An unusually big Favorita.

13.5% 2015-2015

£11.95 Berry Bros & Rudd

La Raia, Pisé, Gavi 2012 15.75 (85+)

16.5 15 15.5 oxidative, almost Armagnac, with plenty of dry raisin notes. Full, ripe and juicy palate, with intensity and complexity.

13% 2015-2016

PoA Sardinian Wines

La Scolca, Etichetta Nera, Gavi 2014 15.75 (85+)

15 16.75 15.5 Quite fresh, with some breadth. nutty and limey aromas. Flinty, mineral and zesty. simple and straightforward.

12% 2015-2019

£29.99-£38

Widely available via UK agent Eurowines

Michele Chiarlo, Fornaci Tassaroli, Gavi 2011

15.75 (85+)

16 15.5 15.5 Beautifully golden rich colour, with notes of dried flowers and dried fruits. soft, ripe and full palate underpinned with rather green acid. oak dominates.

13% 2015-2016

PoA HDN Wines

Morrisons, Signature, Gavi 2014 15.75 (85+)

15.5 17 15 Greengage and apple notes followed by pineapple and grapefruit skin. Quite characterful and tactile, and amazingly only 11% alcohol.

11.5% 2015-2020

£5.99 Morrisons

Negro, Onorata, Favorita, Langhe 2014

15.75 (85+)

14 16.5 17 Fresh and scented nose. Pretty aromas of freesia and white peach. Hints of minerality in the back. Plenty of leftover carbon dioxide for added freshness.

12.5% 2015-2017

£11.51-£13.5

Bottle Apostle, Exel, Great Western Wine, Liquorice

Roletto, Muliné, Erbaluce Di Caluso 2012

15.75 (85+)

16 16.5 15 Lemon and white flowers, then green apple and underripe pineapple on the finish. nectarine and peach notes followed by dry apricot. decent acidity.

13% 2015-2018

£25.75 Sardinian Wines

Wine Score AB IDA MG Tastingnote Alc Drink Price Stockists

Recommended (continued) 15–16.75pts (83–89pts)

La Raia, Riserva, Gavi 2013 16.5 (88)

16.5 16.75 16 Broad, nutty and smoky, with tropical notes and refreshing lemon. Grassy notes, clean, crisp acidity and freshness. Great balance and structure.

12.5% 2015-2020

PoA Sardinian Wines

La Raia, Gavi 2014 16.5 (88)

16 17 16.5 Hints of almond and lime jelly on the intriguing nose. Light and quite zingy with faint melon and nettle flavours. Harmonious, with mineral notes to finish.

12% 2015-2019

£12.50-£17.50

Vintage Roots, Waddeson

Malvirà, Renesio, Roero Arneis 2013 16.5 (88)

16.5 16.75 16.5 Floral and ripe, with soft, peachy flavours and enough acidity to keep this bright and honest. Round and full. Aniseed notes and a lovely jasmine finish.

12.5% 2015-2018

£15.99 Quaff Wines, The Secret Cellar, The Vineking

Marco Porello, Camestrì, Roero Arneis 2014

16.5 (88)

17 17 15.5 Flinty, mineral notes, with lime and greengage acidity. Creamy texture and complex, with some sauvignon Blanc notes and a saline finish.

13% 2015-2017

£11.50 Connolly's Wine

Michele Chiarlo, Le Madri, Roero Arneis 2014

16.5 (88)

16 17 16.5 Broad and ripe, with floral-scented pear and liquorice aromas. Good mid-palate. Plenty of melon and passion fruit notes, and laser-beam acidity.

12% 2015-2018

£15-£17 Corking Wines, Davis Bell McCraith, Great Wines Direct, Strictly Wine, The Good Wine Shop

Monchiero Carbone, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.5 (88)

16.5 17 16 Broad and fresh. Hints of marzipan and orange blossom. Clean, fresh, rich and ripe, with lemony floral flavours and peppery hints on the long, bright finish.

12.5% 2015-2020

£13.95 Bianca Trading

Produttori del Gavi, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.5 (88)

16 16.75 17 very mineral and bone-dry on the palate. Hint of soft green grass and passion fruit. Lively and juicy palate with zingy fruit flavours and crisp acidity.

12% 2016-2021

£12-£13.50

Astrum Wine Cellars, Highbury Vintners

Araldica, Colle Rosa, Roero Arneis 2014

16.25 (87)

16.5 16 16 Fresh, juicy pear and liquorice aromas. Ripe white stone fruits with good acidity and balance. Round and ripe, with a fleshy texture.

13% 2015-2017

£11.99 The Wine Society

Ascheri, Cristina Arneis, Langhe 2014 16.25 (87)

16 16.5 16 Rustic nose with plenty of green grass and citrus notes. simple and lovely to drink. showcases all that is great about Arneis.

13% 2015-2017

£13.94 Carruthers & Kent, Great Western Wine, Hitchin Wine Co, Le Vignoble, Whalley Wine Shop

Batasiolo, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.25 (87)

16 16.5 16.5 melon and cucumber mojito-style, with lovely acidity and freshness. Zingy, with stone-fruit flavours. decent balance and length, too.

12.5% 2015-2021

£12.12 Mondial Wine

Castello di Tassarolo, Alborina, Gavi 2013

16.25 (87)

16.5 16 16 spiced apple and Christmas pudding on the nose, then tart and fresh, with more tropical apple and almond flavours. elegant and well balanced.

13% 2015-2018

PoA Special Cases

Coppo, La Rocca, Gavi 2013 16.25 (87)

15 16.5 17 Pristine mineral and green apple aromas and flavours. Palate is fresh, with plenty of fruit and candied citrus. mint and pepper finish.

12% 2015-2019

£14.50 WineStory

Deltetto, San Michele Arcangelo, Roero Arneis 2014

16.25 (87)

16.5 17.25 15 intense peachy fruit, pear and citrus on the rich, explosive nose. very dry and mineral, with plenty of grapefruit skin and lime notes. Lovely Arneis.

13% 2015-2017

£15.95-£17.99

Hawkshead, Liberty, Slurp

Elvio Cogno, Anas-Cëtta, Nascetta, Langhe 2013

16.25 (87)

16 16.75 16 Full, ripe and waxy, with banana and ripe melon aromas. Hints of lemony richness and salinity. well balanced, with plenty of dry fruits on the finish.

13% 2015-2018

£18.95 Flint

Fabrizio Battaglino, Bataglino, Roero Arneis 2014

16.25 (87)

16.5 16 16.5 Grassy, with plenty of minerality and citrus notes. Ripe, juicy and fleshy, with full fruit flavours. Great freshness, good balance and texture. Good example.

13% 2015-2018

£12 Big Red Wine

Fratelli Martini, The Exquisite Collection, Gavi 2014

16.25 (87)

17 16.25 15.5 Apple, jasmine and lemon verbena nose. Great texture and acidity with good balance and elegance. A touch green at the back.

12% 2015-2019

£5.49 Aldi

Josetta Saffirio, Rossese, Langhe 2012 16.25 (87)

16 17 16 very well-balanced mix of bitter herbs, white flowers and fresh citrus fruits. Full ripe banana and yellow peach flavours with floral notes. Pretty.

13.5% 2015-2017

£17.40-£19.95

Exel Wines, Vagabond

La Caplana, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.25 (87)

15.5 16 17.5 Fresh lanolin and orange blossom nose. dry, crisp and intense on the palate, with delicate flavours and herbal nuances. Pretty and delicate.

12% 2016-2021

£11.98 Coe Vintners

La Scolca, Etichetta Bianca, Gavi di Gavi 2014

16.25 (87)

16 16.75 16 Grassy, mineral notes followed by citrus and grapefruit acidity. Fresh, nutty and zingy, with firm acidity and some thyme notes.

11.5% 2015-2021

£16.50 Adams, Buy Fine Wine, Christopher Piper, Eurowines, Good Wine Online, Hollies Farm Shop, Robersons, Sheldons Cellars

Marco Porello, Roero Arneis 2014 16.25 (87)

16.5 16.75 15.5 Broad, fresh and ripe, with aromas of pear and hazelnut. Lovely length and a creamy aftertaste, finishing extremely saline. Rustic and complex.

13% 2015-2017

£12 (2010)

Wine @ West End

Monchiero Carbone, Recit, Roero Arneis 2014

16.25 (87)

15.5 17 16 sweet and simple at first but builds with aeration to develop peachy and pear complexity. Round and juicy, with a touch of lime and mint on the finish.

13% 2015-2017

£15.95 Bianca Trading

Tenuta Carretta, Cayega, Roero Arneis 2014

16.25 (87)

17 15.5 16 Full, broad and slightly smoky, with flint and grassy notes. A honeyed mid-palate with ripe stone fruits. decent balance and length. Clean finish.

13% 2015-2018

£19.90 Fine Foods SE1, Swig

Tenuta Olim Bauda, Gavi di Gavi 2014 16.25 (87)

16.5 15 17 intense and forward nose with limey and nutty aromas. Hints of nettle and cucumber, with gooseberry and pine nut flavours.

12.5% 2016-2020

£11-£12 Aged in Oak, Alliance Wines, Carruthers & Kent, Davis Bell McCraith

Terre da Vino, Villata, Roero Arneis 2014

16.25 (87)

16 17 16 Lovely big Arneis, but manages to stay refined rather than going over the top. Great mid-palate with plenty of juicy fruit and well-balanced acidity.

12% 2015-2017

£11.70 Hennings, Prohibition Wines

The Co-operative, Truly Irresistible Broglia, Gavi di Gavi 2014

16.25 (87)

16.5 16.25 16 delicate herbs and orchard-fruit aromas. Crisp and juicy, with freshness of flavour. Hint of sweetness and fresh apple.

12.5% 2015-2018

£9.99 The Co-Operative

Vigne Marina Coppi, Fausto, Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi 2012

16.25 (87)

15 16.75 17 Broad, ripe and full with sweet, waxy and floral perfumes and a distinct earthy note. Rich and peppery, with harmonious acids and saffron aromas to finish.

14.5% 2015-2020

£35.95 Ake & Humphris, Carruthers & Kent, Imbibros, Hawkshead, Liberty Wines, Slurp, The Wine Society

Vigne Marina Coppi, Marine, Favorita, Colli Tortonesi 2011

16.25 (87)

16.5 16.75 15.5 Pungently floral, with wax and honey. Palate is very mineral and balanced, with plenty of character and energy. smooth and long. well done.

13.5% 2015-2018

£22.51-£23.95

Exel, Liberty Wines, Hawkshead, Slurp, The Wine Reserve

Waitrose, La Rotonda, Gavi 2014 16.25 (87)

17 16.75 15 Clean, grassy and mineral, with gunflint notes. medium-weight palate that’s dry and crisp, with ripe melon and mint notes.

11.5% 2015-2018

£6.99 Waitrose

Asda, Extra Special, Gavi 2014 16 (86)

16.5 16.25 15 Fresh and ripe, with nettle and a touch of hazelnut. very good acidity and complex, with some pineapple and grapefruit flavours.

11.5% 2015-2017

£8 Asda

Wine Score AB IDA MG Tastingnote Alc Drink Price Stockists

Page 5: Decanter Aug15 Piedmont Whites

PANEL TASTING

7 0 | A u g u s t 2 0 1 5 • D E C A N T E R

Piedmont whites

My top threeAndrea Briccarellon Deltetto,FavoritaServaj,Langhe2014 A refreshing and zingy style of Favorita. the wine has not only incredible aromatics, but also a juicy mid-palate. it’s a versatile wine that shows great terroir and a well-balanced body. 17/20 (90/100) Drink 2015-2017

n LaGiustiniana,Lugarara,GavidiGavi2014textbook Cortese, with all the elegance and finesse expected in a glass. very polished. this was one of my favourite Gavis and showed the true rustic character of the grape, but also subtle nuances that make it stand out. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2018

n MicheleChiarlo,LeMadri,RoeroArneis2014this wine struck me for two reasons. Firstly, the structure: quite generous, with plenty of varietal character. secondly, a precise delivery of fruits and enough laser-like acidity to balance the wine. incredibly fresh and a great expression of this beautiful variety. 16 (86) Drink 2015-2017

My top threeian d’Agatan Ferrando,Cariola,ErbalucediCaluso2014Ferrando is known for its nebbiolo-based Carema wines, but it has a wonderful touch with erbaluce. there are two amazing sweet versions: a late-harvest and a passito (from air-dried grapes). this dry erbaluce is very precise. 17.25/20 (90+/100) Drink 2015-2017

n Malvirà,Trinità,RoeroArneis2014the damonte family specialises in Roero Arneis. the trinità is undoubtedly italy’s best oaked Arneis wine, where use of oak is gentle and complementary, making for a rounder, richer version of Arneis. 17.25 (90+) Drink 2015-2020

n Deltetto,FavoritaServaj,Langhe2014deltetto can’t seem to make a bad wine, something borne out by this 2014 servaj, one of the best Favorita wines i have ever had from anyone in Piedmont. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2017

My top threemichael Garnern Ferrando,Cariola,ErbalucediCaluso2014Historic Canavese winery based in ivrea, and probably better known for its excellent Carema, this is nonetheless a delightfully zingy and scented example of the local white wine. 17/20 (90/100) Drink 2015-2017

n ClaudioMariotto,Derthona,ColliTortonesi2013A really good example of timorasso from a highly regarded producer, combining fresh floral notes, ripe and juicy stone-fruit flavours and mineral-toned aromas. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2017

n LaGiustiniana,Lugarara,GavidiGavi2014A consistent and reliable producer, the Lugarara 2014 shows fresh and floral citrus notes, crisp acidity and good concentration. 17 (90) Drink 2015-2018

NB: the tasters’ top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learning the wines’ identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors

How times CHAnGe. twenty years ago, international varieties such as Chardonnay and sauvignon Blanc were (wrongly) all the rage in Piedmont. today, the better producers are instead (rightly) paying attention to grape varieties that essentially grow only in their region. Rather than making wines that are, by international standards, poor (for the most part, italian Chardonnays are a sad case in point), and worse, that can be made just about anywhere, Piedmont’s producers are finally garnering praise for wines using native white grapes.

the results of this Decanter panel tasting highlight the qualities of such cultivars; they clearly show that the highest scores were corralled by better producers. By that, i don’t mean the most famous or largest estates, but rather those with a long and distinguished history of dedication to a specific cultivar. this needs to be remembered when dealing with wines made from native grapes. making great wines this way is very hard.

Little-known and little-studied, without easy-to-follow winemaking protocols, native cultivars yield the best results in the hands of those who have, for the most part, devoted their lives to them. the results of this tasting were no fluke, and can be seen very much as a

bellwether. it’s no surprise that the erbaluce wines of Ferrando and orsolani excelled (with up-and-coming tenuta Roletto also showing well), or that the usually stellar Arneis wines of malvirà shone. or that Cortese and Gavi’s bigger names (La scolca, La Giustiniana) scored well, as did timorasso wines by expert Claudio mariotto or the rising Cascina montagnola.

overall, each of the varieties represented fared well, with Rossese Bianco and Favorita also eliciting positive comments. if there is one caveat, it’s that most wines were from the rainy 2014 vintage, so they weren’t able to show their best. this is probably why usually outstanding efforts, such as elvio Cogno’s nascetta or Broglia’s Gavi wines, failed to score 17/20 or above.

i have no doubt that future, more favourable vintages will see Decanter panel tastings reward these, and the other wines, with even better scores and comments. D

Ian D’Agata is a decanter world wine Awards Regional co-Chair for italy and was named italy’s best wine journalist 2012 by the Comitato Grandi Cru d’italia

Expert summary: Ian D’AgataMany are quick to jump on the latest, hottest grape, but such wines often amount to less than they should. Piedmont’s native grape experts show how it should be done

‘The results of this tasting were no fluke, and can be seen very much as a bellwether’

Fair 13-14.75pts (76-82pts)n Claudio Mariotto, Pitasso, Colli Tortonesi 2012 14.75 (82) n Marchesi di Barolo, Arneis, Langhe 2014 14.75 (82) n Marchesi di Barolo, Gavi di Gavi 2014 14 (80) n Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Vigna Meira, Langhe 2012 13.75 (79) n Tenuta Olim Bauda, Gavi 2014 13.75 (79)

Poor 11–12.75pts (70-75+pts)n Castello di Tassarolo, Spinola, Gavi 2014 12.25 (74) For full UK stockist details, see p89

Recommended (continued) 15–16.75pts (83–89pts)

Broglia, Villa Broglia, Gavi di Gavi 2014

15.5 (85)

15.5 16 15 intense, ripe white stone fruits with rich aromas of passion fruit and guava. Quite fresh, but high residual sugar dominates.

13% 2015-2018

£12.50 Berkmann, Laithwaite's

Diego Conterno, Nascetta, Langhe 2014

15.5 (85)

14.5 16.75 15 delicately aromatic, clean and mineral, with an almost Riesling-like quality to it. sweet flavours of nettle and flowers, with underlying green notes.

13% 2015-2017

PoA Mille Gusti

Pio Cesare, Arneis, Langhe 2014 15.5 (85)

16.5 16 14 Perfumed, with plenty of juicy exotic fruits. Round and quite soft, with tinned-fruit flavours.

13% 2015-2016

£13-£16 (2011)

Christopher Keiller, Four Walls Wine Co

Valfaccenda, Roero Arneis 2013 15.5 (85)

14 16 16.5 strongly balsamic notes on the nose, with hints of caramel, coriander and vanilla. Full, juicy flavours, with blossomy aromas. some finish.

13% 2015-2018

£22.00 Noble Fine Liquor, P.Franco, The Cheeseboard, The Winemakers Club, Toasted, Vintrepid

Alasia, Roero Arneis 2013 15.25 (84)

14 16 16 Balsamic, chamomile and sweet herbs complement ripe pear and stone-fruit aromas and flavours. Ripe, full and fleshy, with low acid.

13% 2015-2018

£9.95 Boutinot, D.Byrne & Co, Hawkshead, John Hattersley, Premier Cru Fine Wine, Slurp, Wine Poole

Cantina Sociale di Castel Boglione, Cortese-Chardonnay, Piemonte 2014

15.25 (84)

16 14 16 Broad, fresh and nutty, with melon and grapefruit aromas. Clean, fresh, vibrant palate, with juicy apple and pear acidity.

11.5% 2015-2017

£5.79 Waitrose

Castello di Neive, Montebertotto Arneis, Langhe 2014

15.25 (84)

16.5 15 14 mineral, flinty and grassy. Lemongrass and lime freshness. well-balanced and complex finish.

12.5% 2015-2016

PoA FortyFive10°

Ciabot Berton, Alissa, Favorita, Langhe 2014

15.25 (84)

15.5 15 15 Frothy. very fresh, clean mineral notes, with ripe tropical fruits like passion fruit and mango. Full, ripe and blossomy, with fat, ripe flavours.

13% 2015-2016

£11.50 Gerrard Seel

Malvirà, Roero Arneis 2014 15.25 (84)

14 16 16 Rather green and vegetal, with notes of mint and sage. Gains depth and richness with aeration. decent effort.

12.5% 2015-2017

£10.99 Waitrose

Vinochisti, e3, Vino di Tavola 2011 15.25 (84)

15 16 14.5 Pale orange. notes of bruised apple and sweet herbs. Rich and tactile on the palate, with a long creamy finish.

12.5% 2015-2017

£25 Handford, Starmore Boss, Theatre of Wine, Toasted, Whitmore & White, Winemakers Club

Monchiero Carbone, Cecu D'la Biunda, Roero Arneis 2014

15 (83)

14.5 16 14.5 Jasmine and lemon verbena aromas mingle with notes of gin. sweet, ripe fruit flavours with fair freshness and balance.

13.5% 2015-2017

£15.95 Bianca Trading

Wine Score AB IDA MG Tastingnote Alc Drink Price Stockists

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