DARLA SIVARAM - Research Proposal
Transcript of DARLA SIVARAM - Research Proposal
1 | P a g e Darla Sivarama Prasad London College of Fashion / Womenswear
DARLA SIVARAM PRASAD
{ DAR09282249 }
London College of Fashion
BA (HONS) FDT WOMENSWEAR
RESEARCH PROPOSAL
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CONTENTS
ABSTRACT 3
INTRODUCTION 4
RATIONALE 8
FABRICS 9
COLORS 10
CONSUMER PROFILE 11
COMPETITORS 12
DESIGNER AND COMMERCIAL BRANDS REFERENCING 13
RESEARCH METHODOLOGIES 15
ART REVIEW 16
FILM REVIEW 17
LITERATURE REVIEW 18
CRITICAL PATH 19
APPENDIX 21
BIBLIOGRAPY 23
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ABSTRACT
“What will the superwoman be, of whom we sing -
She who is coming over the dim border
Of Far To-morrow, after earth’s disorder
Is tidied up by Time? What will she bring
To make life better on tempestuous earth?
How will her worth
Be greater than her forbears? What new power
Within her being will burst into flower?”
- Ella Wheeler Wilcox
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INTRODUCTION
A mix of two forces War and the Flora.
The subject is chosen to show the power of women in the new age and bring out an image of
their supremacy and compassion. I have always been intrigued to combine two strong
elements, one being war and another Flora. Phrases such as violence, conflict,
aggression, disturbance, destruction, political, strength are associated with war.
The Iraq war is one of the latest conflicts. The war began on March 20, 2003 and is still going
on. This was the political involvement of an international power led by troops from the United
States under the administration of President George W. Bush and the United Kingdom under
the Prime Minister Tony Blair. The war had a huge toll on many innocent human lives and has
resulted in massive destruction. There were many reasons for war to begin but the final picture
results in devastation and fatality. The idea of war sounds adventurous in the video game world
but the actual fact is that in reality it has
always been a negative impact in human lives
and people who have been under its wrath.
Few films like Black Hawk Down (2001), Hurt Locker (2008) truly show the scenario of
being in a warzone and risking one’s life in it.
The element of new warfare methods and new age uniforms are going to be a major
source of inspiration in my collection.
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The second concept is Flora, which is always considered as clean, natural, romantic, and peaceful.
The concept of flowers is quite heritage in many ways of arts and fashion but in my collection the
idea of bringing a positive sense by combining a negative factor like war can be achieved by using
flora inspiration.
I have taken Claude Monet’s flower paintings as my inspiration. He was a founder of French
impressionist painting, and the most consistent and prolific practitioner of the movement's
philosophy of expressing one's perceptions before nature. Monet has beautifully expressed his art by
various beautiful floral paintings. Flowers have always been used in womenswear collections. The
idea of utilizing floral prints or floral embellishments would add a sensitive feel to the collection. The
theme here is to unify these two elements and show it in form of a womenswear line, where the
final outcome would be a strong yet compassionate
woman. To support these elements there would be
the concept of a Feminist woman who is proving a
point that she is strong in battle even with a flower
dress. The duty of women has only been restricted as
Amy de la Haye mentions in the book Cinderella’s of Soil: Land girls, where women
worked in farms and took position after their husbands were sent to war. They were
banned in being in the front line. Such discrimination was prevalent during the World
War – I. The aim is to create an image which portrays that women are also fighters and
showing it in the form of a Dress or a novel ensemble.
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RATIONALE
War has always been associated towards the masculine side globally but to show the power of women with floral inspiration in form of
ensembles is my visualization.
The new-age military style is a huge influence for my collection. Various details can be picked up from their uniforms such as epaulettes,
accessories, trims etc. Silhouettes would be a mix and match of voluminous and constriction. The garments would have the elements of
layering, wear and tear, fastening and minimal drapes.
I will be looking to draft creative patterns with a sense of commerciality in the collection. Innovative use of fabrics playing with different
weights would add to a new dimension in the collection. The garments would be contemporary styled and surface embellishments such
as Embroidery would also be added. I am looking forward to play with various types of fabric dyeing and industrial washes. For
example washing with raw edges would give a wear and tear effect. Even stone washing the fabric can give a rough feel.
Detailing and silhouette play would be a highlight in my collection.
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FABRICS
For a Spring – Summer 2012 collection I have been thinking to play with a mix and match of fabrics varying from heavy weights to fluid
weights would be incorporated. The idea of volume and constraint would be quite challenging. Wovens such as cotton, poplins, voile,
jerseys, suede, canvas and chiffon would be incorporated and experimented with.
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COLORS
Colors would be a mix palette earthy and war colors such as dirt browns, mud, and ash inspired from the Iraq war and a striking bright
floral color accents taken from photographs of flora to show feminism as this project focuses on a combining contrast elements.
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CONSUMER PROFILE
The consumer is the woman with demography ranging from 20 yrs – 45 yrs. My ideal client would be the one who is sensitive and yet
she is daring enough to join a battle. She is a new age woman who is fearless and doesn’t worry how her future looks ahead. She believes
in today and fights for her rights. She prefers to be quiet and show her work in actions. She likes the aroma of flowers and incense and
loves combat. She loves to experiment with her styles and is bold. I have chosen Uma Thurman as my ideal client as her attributes would
easily suit my collection. “Call her the Bride, Black Mamba, Arlene Machiavelli, Beatrix Kiddo, or Mommy,” quotes Rikke Schubart in the
book Super Bitches and Action Babes about Uma Thurman in Kill Bill Vol -1 & 2.
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COMPETITORS
Military and War have been mostly explored topics in fashion. Many designer labels such as Burberry Prosum, Banana republic,
Alexander Wang, Jil Sander and Chloé have created highly contemporary commercial collections inspired from military and war based
themes.
My collection is a new entry design label which will stand in a high end ready-to-wear store. The ensembles can be sold globally in
countries such as England, India, South Africa and Dubai to clients who relate themselves with the brand and its aesthetics. The pricing
would range from 200£ - 1500£. The design and style would be a highlight and make the consumer feel special.
Competitors would range from Asos, Liberty, Topshop and Harrods.
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DESIGNER AND COMMERCIAL BRANDS REFERENCING
Designer References and Magazines have been researched to track contemporary and commercial fashion.
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RESEARCH METHODOLOGIES
I would like find answers to few initial doubts like:
If a dress is taken to war and asked to fight. How would it be?
A coloured ensemble which is surrounded by a dread dessert. How would the treatment be?
I have recently visited the Imperial museum of war in Manchester. The museum showcases various weapons, uniforms/costumes and
other military equipment, wartime propaganda and exhibits on civilian life during World War one and World War two. The raise of
women power has been an inspiring factor for my project.
Flowers bring out the softness and balances with the roughness in the war. For example the colours of flowers or the textures can be
played with. I would be sourcing fabrics which relate to my theme of war and flora. I am looking to play with these fabrics and treat
them in various ways. Embellishments and embroidery would also add a good dimension to my collection. Hence I would be working on
the samples. I would visit Delhi to source good spring cotton like fabrics. As India has a rich source of cotton fabrics. There would also
be leather trimmings added as details in the collection. I have already visited the Imperial war museum in Manchester which was very
helpful in my research. Numerous pictures have been taken to add to my research. I am going to work on many fabric samples and treat
it with washing effects such as pigment dye, batik dye etc… which should show a rugged or distressed feel in the fabric. Ripping the
seams and trying to making new seams to add highlights in the samples. Illustrations and sketches would be made keeping commercial
value in mind.
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ART REVIEW
Paintings by Claude Monet are one of the inspiring factors for my collection. His floral paintings have lots a depth in terms of colors and
textures.
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FILM REVIEW
Movies like Kill bill have portrayed a fighter woman image. Other films like Black Hawk Down, Hurt Locker and Inglourious Basterds are
great motivating movies for my collection. The theme of war and combat is in both these films. An amalgamation of these films would
show the true character of the new age fighter woman.
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LITERATURE REVIEW
Land Girls: Cinderellas of Soil by Amy de la Haye and Lee Millers War are few books which show the involvement of women in war and
how women have adapted the roles of men due to the world war.
Super bitches and action babes by Rikke Schubart also demonstrates the female hero in popular films.
Flowers by Beane and Monet: The gardener have given tremendous floral inspiration
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CRITICAL PATH
Week 11 - 4 October 2010 Source books from library and make notes.
Week 12 - 12 October 2010 Image research and start with proposal.
Week 13 – 18 October 2010 Research Proposal, Colors and initial design.
Week 14 – 25 October 2010 Fabric Sourcing and Research Proposal.
Week 15 - 1 November 2010 Trend, forecast study and Proposal Submission.
Week 16 - 8 November 2010 Design Development and Initial Samplers.
Week 17 - 15 November 2010 Toile development and work on design.
Week 18 - 22 November 2010 Toiles, Portfolio and Fabric.
Week 19 - 29 November 2010 Toiles and Design enhancement.
Week 20 - 6 December 2010 75% of Toiles to be completed.
Week 21 - 13 December 2010 Review completed toiles and note changes.
Week 22 - 20 December 2010 Work on Production and Manufacturing ideas.
Week 23 – 27 December 2010 Surface development techniques.
Week 24 – 3 January 2011 Portfolio development.
Week 25 – 10 January 2011 Discuss ideas and remaining designs.
Week 26 – 17 January 2011 Finalize fabrics ideas and trims ideas.
Week 27 – 24 January 20101 Leave for Manufacturing Outfits & work on toiles.
Week 28 - 31 January 2011 Complete Outfit 1.
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Week 29 - 7 February 2011 Complete Outfit 2.
Week 30 - 14 February 2011 Complete Outfit 3 & source for accessories.
Week 31 – 21 February 2011 Complete Outfit 4 & work on Spec sheets.
Week 32 - 28 February 2011 Complete Outfit 5.
Week 33 - 7 March 2011 Return and Complete Outfit 6 and Spec Sheets.
Week 34 - 22 March 2011 Hand in Portfolio and Collection.
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APPENDIX
1 Iraq War
http://messengerandadvocate.files.wordpress.com/2007/03/ir
aq-war.jpg
2 Gears of War video game
http://www.flickr.com/photos/eldave/3322780298/
3 Vogue Italia September 2007 : Agyness Deyn by Steven Meisel
http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f78/vogue-italia-september-
2007-agyness-deyn-steven-meisel-59727.html
4 Army Specialist Jennie Baez, Photographed by Lance Cpl
Clifton D Sams
http://kennysideshow.blogspot.com/2010/02/equal-
opportunity.html
5 Kill Bill Graphic
6 Iraqi woman, Kurdistan: Photo by James Gordon
http://www.allamericanpatriots.com/news_topics/iraq?page=4
7 Flower Image from Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by
Anthony F. Janson.
8 Monet Painting from Monet : the gardener / Robert Gordon,
Sydney Eddison.
9 Flower Image from Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by
Anthony F. Janson.
10 Screenshot of Gucci flora perfume advertisement 2009
11 Weber Tulip 1995 from Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by
Anthony F. Janson.
12 Flower War from
http://tracostortos.blogspot.com/2008/08/flower-war.html
13 Uma Thurman in UK Harper's Bazaar, July 2009
14 Another Magazine Spring/Summer 2008: Uma Thurman by
Craig McDean
15 November 2003 Uma Thurman Vogue
16 Asos logo.
17 Liberty logo.
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18 Topshop logo.
19 Harrods logo.
20 Military Vogue 2010 USA
21 Military Vogue 2010 USA
22 Military Vogue 2010 USA
23 Iris Van Herpen’s SS10 Radiation.
24 Global Warrior Woman Fashion Story Designer Jin Joo Ma
25 Silk Dupion from www.google.com
26 The Garden in Flower, 1900 by Monet Claude.
27 Monet Painting from Monet : the gardener / Robert Gordon,
Sydney Eddison.
28 Monet Painting from Monet : the gardener / Robert Gordon,
Sydney Eddison.
29 Hurt Locker directed by Kathryn Bigelow 2009
30 Inglorious Basterds directed by Quentin Tarantino 2009.
31 Kill Bill directed by Quentin Tarantino, vol 1 - 2003 and vol 2
– 2004.
32 Monet : the gardener / Robert Gordon, Sydney Eddison -
2002
33 Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by Anthony F. Janson -
2008
34 Super bitches and action babes : the female hero in popular
cinema, 1970-2006 / Rikke Schubart.
35 Lee Miller's war : photographer and correspondent with the
Allies in Europe 1944-45 / foreword by David E. Scherman ;
edited by Antony Penrose.
36 Land girls: Cinderellas of the soil / Amy de la Haye. 2009.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
BOOKS
Beane, C., & Janson, A. F. (2008). Flower. New York: Artisan.
De La Haye, A. (2009). Land girls : Cinderellas of the soil.
Brighton: Royal Pavilion & Museums.
Gordon, R., & Eddison, S. (2002). Monet the gardener. New York:
Universe.
Miller, L., & Penrose, A. (2005). Lee Miller's war: photographer
and correspondent with the Allies in Europe, 1944-45. London:
Thames & Hudson.
Schubart, R. (2007). Super bitches and action babes. London: Mc
Farland & Company, Inc.
MOTION PICTURE
Bigelow, K. (Director). (2008). The Hurt Locker [Motion Picture].
Scott, R. (Director). (2001). Black Hawk Down [Motion Picture].
Tarantino, Q. (Director). (2009). Inglourious Basterds [Motion
Picture].
Tarantino, Q. (Director). (2003). Kill Bill: Vol. 1 [Motion Picture].
Tarantino, Q. (Director). (2004). Kill Bill: Vol. 2 [Motion Picture].
WORLD WIDE WEB DOCUMENTS
Wilcox, E. W. (n.d.). Retrieved October 2010, from www.great-
inspirational-quotes.com: http://www.great-inspirational-
quotes.com/the-superwoman.html
Meisel, A. D. (2007). Vogue Italia .
Military. (2010). Vogue USA .
Spring/Summer 2008: Uma Thurman by Craig McDean. (2008).
Another Magazine .
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