Danish Serk

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Danish Serk

Grazia Morgano

1 Febrary AS XLVIII

Abstract

This serk (underdress) is based on the construction techniquesshown in three fragments (57, 72C, and 55) found in the harbor atHedeby, in Denmark. Hedeby was a Viking village that existed fromthe 8th century until it was sacked in 1066. These fragments showthat inset sleeves were used in Hedeby. The sleeve fragment shows acurved armscye, similar to that found in modern clothing. The thirdfragment shows that triangular gores were in use. These fragmentsshow that these were Danish tailoring techniques. Whether these par-ticular fragments were part of a mans shirt or a womans serk isunknown.

My serk is hand sewn from linen. The stitching is done in hand-

spun linen thread, using the same size stitches and types of stitchesfound in the original fragments. The thread is Z-spun, S-plied, asare all the seaming threads in Fragments 57 and 72C. Hilde Thunemreports that Inga Haggs analysis of Hedebys graves shows serks tohave commonly been tabby woven, plain and undyed. Several of theserks found in Hedebys graves were linen (Thunem,2011).

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Contents

List of Figures 3

1 Reconstruction 4

2 Conclusions 6

A Archaeology 8

A.1 Fragment 57 - the sleeve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8A.2 Fragment 72C - the shoulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9A.3 Fragment 55 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Bibliography 12

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List of Figures

1.1 Hand-spun linen thread was used . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4a Spinning sewing thread. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4b Linen sewing thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

1.2 Seam finishing on reproduction, showing hem-stitch seam al-lowances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

2.1 Finished work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7a The serk alone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7b The serk worn with a smokkr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

A.1 Diagram of Fragment 57, from Hagg, pg 59. The thick linesare the seam lines, showing a 3-piece assembly. The thin linesare what remains after deterioration. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

A.2 Line drawing and photo of assembled sleeve fragment . . . . . 9a Drawing of Fragment 57, from Hagg, pg 56 . . . . . . . 9b Photo of Fragment 57, from Hagg, pg 58 . . . . . . . . 9

A.3 Diagram of Fragment 72C, from Hagg, pg 48 . . . . . . . . . . 10A.4 Diagram of Fragment 55, from Hagg, pg 46. . . . . . . . . . . 11

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1. Reconstruction

I used unbleached, undyed linen for this serk, similar to the fabrics found inHedebys graves (Thunem,2011). Because the threads used to sew seams are

usually the same type of fiber as the fabric (Ewing, 2006, p. 158), and I didnot want the stitches to be too visible, I chose to use the linen thread I hadalready spun. There was not enough, though, so the first step in constructionwas spinning some more linen thread (Figures2.1aand 2.1b).

(a) Spinning sewing thread (b) Linen sewing thread

Figure 1.1: Hand-spun linen thread was used

A muslin was created, based on measuring the ratios of the reconstructedoutlines found in Haggs drawing of the sleeve pieces (seeA.1) and shoulderfragment(seeA.4). These ratios were scaled up to fit my body. The sleevehead was re-drafted for better fit (so range of motion would not be restricted),

and then the muslin pieces were disassembled and traced onto linen.Unfortunately, some seams were sewn with a single ply of this hand spun

linen before I double-checked the information Hagg provided and realized itshould be a 2-ply thread. Part way through the first sleeve, I switched toa 2-ply. All seams were sewn with a running stitch and finished with each

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Grazia Morgano 5

seam allowance being individually folded under and hem-stitched (1.2), as

shown in Haggs detailed drawing of Fragment 57 (see A.2a). According tothe table at the back of Haggs report, stitch lengths on Fragment 57 (the onefor which the most information is given) range between 2mm and 7mm, withmost seams having stitches between 3mm and 5mm (Hagg and Schweppe,1985,p. 255). The size of the seam allowances are not given.

Figure 1.2: Seam finishing on reproduction, showing hem-stitch seam allowances


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2. Conclusions

When I tried on this serk after attaching the sleeves, I was concerned becausethe elbow piece seems so high. My elbow hits at the bottom of that insert.

Then I looked at the diagram again. The worn out area is at the bottom ofthe elbow piece, suggesting my placement is correct.I am pleased with my draft of the sleeve head and armscye. I have never

worked with a curved sleeve head, let alone drafted one, so having a fullrange of motion feels like an accomplishment.

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(a) The serk alone (b) The serk worn with a smokkr

Figure 2.1: Finished work


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A. Archaeology

A.1 Fragment 57 - the sleeve

Figure A.1: Diagram of Fragment 57, from Hagg, pg 59. The thick lines arethe seam lines, showing a 3-piece assembly. The thin lines are what remains afterdeterioration.

The sleeve is made of three pieces. One of these is placed for the elbow,

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cut on grain but placed on a slight angle to the sleeve, allowing some bias in

movement. There is a 6cm long slit at the wrist (Hagg and Schweppe,1985,p. 55).

(a) Drawing of Fragment 57, fromHagg, pg 56 (b) Photo of Fragment 57, from

Hagg, pg 58

Figure A.2: Line drawing and photo of assembled sleeve fragment

Hagg includes a long table of information about seams on this fragment.Overall, seam stitches are 3mm in length, with the occasional aberration (oneshort seam has some stitches up to 7mm in length). The hem stitches usedto tack down the seam allowances are generally 3mm long, sometimes 2mm,sometimes 4mm or 5mm. All seams are sewn with a 2-ply thread, Z-spun,S-plied (Hagg and Schweppe,1985, p. 255).

A.2 Fragment 72C - the shoulder

Two matters of construction are clearly evident from looking at Fragment72C: the strongly curved armscye, and the scoop neckline.

Supporting the idea that the scoop neck would be common in Hedeby arethe facts that a brooch to close a keyhole neckline is a rare find in Hedebys


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graves and that the tortoise brooches in Hedebys graves are placed far apart

(Thunem, 2011).

Figure A.3: Diagram of Fragment 72C, from Hagg, pg 48

A.3 Fragment 55

Haggs diagram of Fragment 55 is being shown here as evidence of triangulargores being used to provide room for walking.


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Figure A.4: Diagram of Fragment 55, from Hagg, pg 46


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Bibliography

Thor Ewing. Viking clothing. Tempus, 2006. ISBN 07524358769780752435879.

Inga Hagg and Helmut Schweppe. Die Textilfunde aus dem Hafen vonHaithabu. Berichte uber die Ausgrabungen in Haithabu, Bericht 20. K.Wachholtz, 1985. ISBN 0352919208.

Hilde Thunem. Viking women: Clothing: Underdress (serk). http://urd.priv.no/viking/serk.html ,2011. [Online, accessed 6-August-2013].

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