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Your Bike & Barge vacation

Rhine & IJssel route

FVI 2013

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Character of the tour The Netherlands is sometimes seen as one big park, severed by rivers and roads. Should this apply, then it is certainly true of the area of the central Netherlands. This area has a lot of water, among which the big rivers the IJssel and the Rhine, the IJsselmeer (IJssel-lake) and the peat moors north of Utrecht. By bicycle you are surprised by the ever changing scenery: dry sand grounds, idyllic river landscapes, alternated with meadows, corn fields and woods. A relaxed cycle tour will take you to small country roads, passing beautiful country houses and little castles. There is a small climb when you go up the Utrechtse Heuvelrug. This lateral moraine was formed during the latest ice age. In this period, the Veluwe also came into existence. Here you can find the first National Park of the Netherland: the Hoge Veluwe. In this park you can visit the interesting Kröller Müller museum and admire works by Van Gogh, Picasso and Mondriaan. Along the IJssel river lie small towns that gained their economic and cultural prosperity because of the water. SATURDAY: Amsterdam, boarding at 2 pm, sailing to Wijk bij Duurstede When you arrive on board the ship you can put your luggage away in your cabin and then enjoy a cup of coffee or tea. It is also a good moment to become acquainted with the guide, skipper and crew, and of course your fellow passengers. Your bicycle will be handed out to you and you can join a short tour on bike from the ship's berth through the quieter parts of the city. If time permits the tour will also take you a short way out of the city.

Amsterdam: In the 12

th century Amsterdam was no more than a modest

settlement at the mouth of the river Amstel, with open connection to the sea. In those days fishermen and craftsmen built a dam in the Amstel (now the site of the National Monument) and Amstel-re-damme was born. Amsterdam was granted a municipal charter in 1275 and has since expanded continually. In the 17

th and 18

th

century Amsterdamers were the most prosperous Europeans. The famous rings of canals were dug in the Golden Age, the 17

th

century. Powerful merchants had their abundantly ornamented mansions built here, thus manifesting their riches. Amsterdam is a city to be explored on foot and we recommend the

following places of interest: the rings of canals, the Jordaan area, with its many pubs, outdoor cafés and quaint shops, Vondelpark with its open air concerts, Leidseplein, Rembrandtsplein, the antique shops in the Spiegel district, Museum Square with the Rijksmuseum (National Museum), Stedelijk Museum (Museum of Modern Art) and the Van Gogh Museum. Other typical features of Amsterdam are its numerous 'hofjes' (almshouses), the floating flower market, and the hundreds of houseboats lining the canals. Amsterdam is inextricably related to the diamond-cutting industry, which has brought much fame to the city since the 17

th century. The palace on Dam Square

is sometimes called the eighth Wonder of the World as it was built on 13,659 piles. Did you know that:

there are 222 trams, 277 buses, 106 underground trains and eight ferries in Amsterdam?

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the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is the oldest edifice of Amsterdam?

there are 600,000 bicycles in Amsterdam?

there are 165 canals and 1,281 bridges in Amsterdam?

there are 2,500 houseboats in Amsterdam? By barge you travel on the Amsterdam-Rijncanal in a south-easterly direction. This is one of the busiest waterways in Europe. It was dug to connect Amsterdam Seaport with the European hinterland. You spend the night in Wijk bij Duurstede on the river that, up to that point, is called the Rhine, but downstream the name changes to Lek. During the early Middle Ages, this town was a prestigious trading centre. The marauding expeditions of the Norsemen put an end to their flourishing period however. The old city centre is picturesque with its marketplace surrounded by trees, the town hall dating back to 1662 and the Main Church dating back to the 15th Century. The gothic tower has never been finished, though. On the other side of town you will find the hidden ruins of Duurstede Castle, consisting of the (restored) Burgundy Tower and the Donjon (= bell tower) dating back to the 12th Century. In the 15th Century Bishop David of Burgundy lived in the castle.

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SUNDAY Wijk bij Duurstede – Wageningen – Kröller Müller Museum - Arnhem 50 km During breakfast, the ship sails to Wageningen. Along the way, you’ll pass the grain mills ‘Rijn en Lek’ (“Rhine and Lek”) by one of the city gates. Arriving at Wageningen, the first bicycle trip is taken, first through the flat river valley of the Rhine, then along the protected nature reserve “De Blauwe Kamer” (the Blue Chamber), followed by the wood and moorlands of the Veluwe nature reserve, the largest unbroken nature reserve (woodland and heath) of the Netherlands. In this reserve you find the “National

Park the Hoge Veluwe”, where deers, roes, wild boars and other wildlife roam free. In the middle of the park the Kröller Müller museum is situated, with works by famous painters (many 19

th and 20

th century). It contains a large

collection of paintings by Van Gogh.

The ‘National Park De Hoge Veluwe’ is one of the oldest and biggest national parks in the Netherlands. Here you can find no less than 5.500 acres of woodland, heath, pools and drift sands. Together with the Kröller-Müller Museum and the sculpture garden the Park is a unique combination of nature art and architecture. You ride through suburbs with lovely parks such as Sonsbeek and Zijpendaal to Arnhem, where you spend the night close to the centre. Arnhem is the capital of the province of Gelderland. In September of 1944, the center of the town was heavily damaged by the efforts of the “Geallieerden de Rijnbrug” to conquer over the Germans (Operation “Market Garden”). The plan backfired. (The battle of Arnhem has been filmed in "A bridge too far"). Following the war, the city centre was reconstructed to reflect its past patterns and design as closely as possible. The buildings included in this restoration were the Grote Kerk (Big Church) and the Duivelshuis (Devil’s House), the latter

having acted as Arnhem’s former city hall. The Sabelpoort (Sable Gate) along the marketplace is the only remaining city gate and the rest of the city was constructed anew. What makes the city especially interesting is its surrounding landscape. Arnhem is generally known as the “Park City of the Netherlands” in large part due to its centuries old city parks, which extend well into the city centre. Sonsbeek Park is the most important park of the city. It is located against the city’s dam walls and offers a multitude of breathtaking views with far-reaching vistas of the Rhine river on the one hand and hidden, intimate corners on the

other. It contains waterfalls, a deer camp, a belvedere and the watermill, “Arnhem”. Arnhem also houses many museums such as the Netherlands Open Air Museum where you will find authentic houses, farms, bakers, farmers and more all illustrating how the Dutch lived centuries ago. The Netherlands Wine Museum in Arnhem provides an overview of the wine industry, grape cultivation and the role played by wine in society in general. Two especially noteworthy churches are the Eustabiuskerk from 1452 and the St. Walburgis Basilica.

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MONDAY Arnhem – sailing to Doesburg – biking to Zutphen – sailing to Deventer, 35 km We sail to the small Hanseatic town of Doesburg. We continue by bike via the Hanseatic Town Route along the Ijssel to the beautiful small town of Bronkhorst. A visit to Zutphen should be possible, and is recommended. Zutphen is a hanseatic town and one of the oldest

cities in the Netherlands. You will find many almshouses and courtyards here of which the Agnietenhof, an old convent dating from 1397, is especially noteworthy. The town contains many well-preserved houses and buildings dating back to the late Middle Ages of which Zutphen’s town hall, its surrounding square, “‘s Gravenhof”, the Vleeshuis (Meat Hall) and the Gothic Grote Kerk (Big Church) are good examples. The Grote Kerk is also known as the Walburgkerk and supports an authentic gold-plated tower. Beautiful gables and facades further enliven the marketplaces: the Gravenmarkt, the Houtmarkt and the Zaadmarkt. Many of the former city wall’s gates, which formed the city’s defence, can still be seen today.

During dinner the ship sails to Deventer. This city is one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands. It is therefore not surprising that the oldest stone house can be found in ‘Deventer (in the Sandrasteeg). Deventer is a prominent ‘Hanzestad’. In the Middle Ages, merchants from all over Europe came here to participate in the annual fairs. In this period, the current city centre came into existence. There are numerous monuments reminiscent of the Hanze (for example the beautiful building ‘The Three Herrings’ on the Brink).

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TUESDAY Deventer – Zwolle by barge to Kampen 50 km.

The first stretch of today’s route takes you via a park-like landscape directly east of the IJssel River. By Wijhe, you’ll cross the river and follow the meandering IJsseldijk (IJssel dike). Sometime in the afternoon, you’ll arrive in Hattem. This is a small town located at the foot of the hills of the Veluwe. On the other side lies Zwolle, the capital of the Overijssel province. In Hattem you will find the Anton Pieckmuseum. Among other things this artist was inspired by the fairy tales of the Grimm Brothers. The museum is built from

a couple of old houses. It shares its shelter with the Voermanmuseum, which present the paintings and drawings of both the father and son Voerman. You’ll also find a bit of history here of Hattem. You board in Hattem and during dinner you sail to Kampen. Kampen is the largest hanseatic town and has been declared protected townscape. Kampen retained three of its original city gates from the Middle Ages: the Broederpoort, Cellebroederspoort and the Koornmarktpoort.

The last gate mentioned is the oldest gate dating back to the 14th century. The town contains two town halls, which are open to the public, and a visit to the St. Nicolaaskerk (Church of St. Nicholas) is highly recommended. The view of the town from the Main Station Hall is impressive, to say the least. In 1999, the city received a new bridge.

Kampen has had a permanent cross-river connection since the Middle Ages. The river IJssel was and still is a very important means of transportation.

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WEDNESDAY Kampen – Elburg - Harderwijk, 50 km Today the route leads you to the fortified town of Elburg. As far back as the 14

th century this

was a lively trading port. Just like Kampen and Harderwijk it was a member of the Hanseatic League, an organisation of merchants from north-western Europe in the late middle Ages). The lay-out of fortified Elburg makes one think of a chessboard, surrounded by city walls and a moat. For those who like to cycle a little less today there is the option of leaving the ship only at Elburg. From here you continue along the former Zuiderzee shore. If the weather is nice you may want to go for a swim. The last part of the route will take you through the large woods of the Veluwe, with its undulating landscape a remainder of the Ice Age. The Veluwe is the largest connected nature reserve of the Netherlands, totally consisting of sandy soil. The final town today is Harderwijk, like Elburg, a Hanseatic town. Its charming boulevard, the little beaches and the largest mammal zoo (including dolphins) of Europe make Harderwijk an important tourist attraction.

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THURSDAY Harderwijk - Spakenburg, 50 km Today's itinerary first leads you through the Veluwe forests and then through a peaceful agricultural area. Then you have the choice of cycling to your destination via Nijkerk and the Zuiderzee dike or making a detour via Amersfoort.

If you do the latter a well laid-out bike trail will lead you to and through the city, thus taking you to the very

centre of town in an easy way. Amersfoort is one of the oldest cities of the Nether-lands and was granted a municipal charter as early as 1259. Much of its history has remained. Small canals, the 100 metres' tall Onze-Lieve-Vrouwe-Toren (Our Beloved Lady Tower), St Joris Church, the famous Koppelpoort (a city gate) and other attractions can be part of an interesting tour on foot. In the 17

th century, Amersfoort was a city of beer

brewers. Since 1989 the new Amersfoort municipal brewery 'The Three Rings' has made beer once again in the old way, thus keeping the old brewing history of the city alive. There will be plenty of time for lunch and sightseeing here. In the afternoon the trip continues along the Eem River, a small river flowing into the Eem Lake, west of Spakenburg. In spite of the enormous density of population of the province of Utrecht, you can still find green countryside here.

Following the dike you enter Spakenburg from the west. Spakenburg has always been a fishermen's port and now forms a kind of twin village with Bunschoten. Many wonderful wooden fishing boats are moored here and you may come across villagers in their traditional dress. The 27 km option takes you all the way along the Zuiderzee shore. Another possibility is to sail the first part, pick up cycling near Nijkerk and then follow the route via Amersfoort.

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FRIDAY: Spakenburg – Amsterdam, 50km. Today the route takes you through quiet polder land and a wooded area to one of the best-preserved fortified towns of the country, Naarden-Vesting.

In Muiden the Muiderslot (Muider Castle) can be visited; a medieval castle which is still in good condition. The castle is a square water fortress with round towers on each corner. Within the walls there is a large building with step-gables. The Muiderslot was built in 1280 by Count Floris V, an immensely rich person ('stone rich' as we say in Dutch: in times when almost anything was built out of wood he could afford to have a stone castle built). The castle is situated on the spot where the Vecht flowed into the Zuiderzee, today's Ijsselmeer. Nearby is Muiden with its picturesque harbour. In Floris's days toll would be levied on passing ships by placing a chain across the river. After his death the Muiderslot was mainly occupied by castellans, governors of the castle looking after the it for their lords, i.e. bishops or landgraves. In the Eighty Years' War the castle was seized by William of Orange in 1577. The furniture, utensils and paintings that can now be seen in the castle all date from the 17

th

century. In those days the writer Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft lived at the castle. Hooft was surrounded by a group of people of importance, called the 'Muiderkring' (Muider Circle). During the French occupation the castle was used as a barracks for the French army. Since 1795 nobody lived in it any more and the castle started falling into decay. Restoration was taken up only in 1895, executed under the guidance of the well-known architect Pieter Cuypers. The castle has a moat with a drawbridge. Outside the walls there is a plum orchard, which was already there in Hooft's days. The old decorative gardens and the functional gardens for kitchen use have been rehabilitated.

Winding roads along the little rivers Vecht and Gaasp

will take you back to Amsterdam. A shorter way is also possible: from Muiden straight into town along the Amsterdam-Rhine Canal. In the Middle Ages the Vecht was an important shipping route between the Zuiderzee, from where North-Western Europe could be reached, and the Rhine, giving access to what is now called Germany. Some of the castles on the Vecht built for strategical purpose are Nijenrode Castle and Muider Castle. The river itself was also part of the Holland Water

Defence Line, an ingenious system of fortifications, sluice gates and areas that could be inundated and which could serve as a defence line against attacks from the east on the province of Holland. In the 17

th century, the Golden Age, wealthy Amsterdam tradesmen

had country houses built and renovated along the river Vecht. At about 4 o'clock you will be back at the place you left on Saturday. Time to hand in your bicycle and several hours ahead of you, to further explore the city of Amsterdam. To wile away the afternoon and evening hours, we can explore the city again – either on foot or in a tour boat on the city’s graceful canals. SATURDAY: Amsterdam, end of trip after breakfast