Culinary Castles - Trevor Claringbold's Award Winning Article on Emilia Romagna

Pro Traveller Issue 52

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Of course, if you’re having a jaunt through one of Italy’smost historic regions, eating and sleeping in medievalcastles, you expect the odd ghost story or two. However,being told not to stand in the centre of the room,because that’s the trapdoor where prisoners werethrown to their deaths down the tower, was probablynot on my list of expectations. Neither was the cagehanging high on the outside of a cathedral tower, wherelocal villains were literally hung out to dry.

But the bizarre award of the week has to go to thestatue of the Virgin Mary, pierced by rows of daggers,and standing across the room from a glass cabinetwhere assorted body parts from a long dead saint weredisplayed.

Before we really had time to take it in, Attila the TourGuide had flicked the switch, plunging us into an eeriedarkness, and ushered us on through the gloom toanother gallery, where lay a collection of medievaltorture implements.

It was the last evening of a fascinating foray into theheartland of northern Italy, and our private tour of theRivalta Castle was both intriguing and bizarre. But don’tlet the scary stuff put you off. Modern day Italians arefar more welcoming than their aristocratic predecessors.

Just a axe throw from the castle gates were our foodand accommodation for the night. The Residenza Torre

di San Martino nestles in a cobbled courtyard thatwouldn’t look out of place in a medieval movie. Theindividually styled bedrooms seem to reach out and hugyou as you close the heavy oak door, and the adjacentrestaurant was equally warm and enticing. Of course,the meal was unbelievably good, and lubricated bysome choice local wine.

I say ‘of course’, because this is a region where food isking. In fact we’d been seduced by so much idylliccuisine, I was amazed the Italian women all looked tohave such perfect figures. The previous evening was ashining example, when we joined a hundred or so otherrevellers in the majestic Castello Fontanellato. It’s anopportunity for the locals to get dressed up, gather inthe courtyard under the illuminated towers, and sip aglass or three of Frizzante. We were then invited for atour of the upstairs galleries, which are home to art andantiques covering four hundred years of the castles’history. No sooner had that finished, and with the airfull of anticipation, we took our places for the mainevent.

The Ricordanze di Sapori (‘Remembering Old Flavours’)is a popular culinary festival, and tonight we were to bespoiled by not one, but three Michelin starred chefs.The local community feel was further enhanced by theuse of some thirty school children as waiters andkitchen hands. The food was absolutely amazing, andduly accompanied by specially selected local wines for


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each course. The ambience and majesty of the castlesetting made it a thoroughly delightful evening.

If, by now, you’re thinking that you need to spend yourchildren’s inheritance to have a good time in this area (oreven to eat well), well think again. Just around the cornerfrom Piacenza’s main square, is the Michelin starredAntica Osteria del Teatro, where the three course setlunch with wine is sure to impress any self-respectingfoodie. And will only set you back €30.

Chef Filippo Chiappini Dattilo is not one to shout about hissuccess, but this quaint and comfy little restaurant is onethat those in the know regularly frequent. Talk nicely toFilippo, and he may even take you below stairs to visit his


Situated on the Via Emilia, it may not be aslarge as Parma, but its history is every bit aslong and impressive. It was founded around175BC as a Roman settlement, and its strategicposition has maintained its importance andwealth over the centuries.

Occupying one whole side of a paved square isthe Valli Theatre, which has been the focalpoint of the city’s cultural life for a century anda half.

Facing it is a busy street lined with ornate,pastel coloured buildings, which hail from thedays of Reggio Emilia’s glorious past. Lines ofquality shops, & refined eating establishmentslead you to an older piazza, with a tall belltower at one end. In the centre is the Cathedral,which, like many in the region, was neverproperly finished. That doesn’t detract from itsbeauty however, as certainly on the inside it isa cornucopia of glorious frescos, carvings, andart works.

At the far end of the piazza is a building that isnow the Town Hall. It was here, in 1797, thatthe Italian tricolour flag was created, thuscementing the city’s place in its nation’s history.It’s worth a visit, not just to see the original flag,but also to muse over the design of the councilchamber.

The architect, it seems, had only designedtheatres before this commission... and it’s nothard to see he did little to change his style!

Founded in Roman times, Parma has alwaysremained important both strategically andpolitically. During the renaissance period thewealthy ruling Duchy of the Farnese familygreatly improved the centre, with impressivebuildings and grand squares. The FarneseTheatre still retains the grandeur of a bygoneera, and is a major attraction during theVerdi Festival.

In the remains of the Palazzo Pilotta (animmense square palace, now sadly partiallydestroyed by fire) masterpieces by Da Vinci,El Greco, and Correggio are amongst theexhibits of the National Gallery of Parma.

Parma is a bright, welcoming city, and thewide streets of orange and yellow buildingsgive it a warm feel even on the cloudiest ofdays. In a corner of the Piazza Garibaldi isthe magnificent Romanesque Cathedral, builtwith pink marble from Verona. The interior isa masterpiece of Gothic columns & classicalpaintings. Somewhat hidden until you areclose, is Correggio’s stunning painted domeIt’s an amazing piece of art, as well as alesson in optical illusion, creating extra layersand ledges that are not actually there. Takea few Euros with you, as it is only illuminatedby feeding the meter!

Elsewhere, there are plenty of chances tosample authentic local produce, including theParmigiano Reggiano cheeses, Parma Ham,Culatello di Zibello, Porcini Mushrooms, andthe area’s balsamic vinegars.

With its maze of historic streets, and stylisharchitecture, Piacenza is the classic gatewayto entice you into the Emilia Romagna region.

The highlight for many is undoubtedly thevast Palazzo Farnese, whose sprawling, lavishinterior is home to an extensive collection oftreasures and artefacts. In typically Italianstyle, its grandeur is not obvious from theoutside, in the same way as Versailles orNeuschwanstein. That’s often the case in thiscountry, where what’s on the inside countsfor much more.

The collection would take an article of its ownto cover, but the highlights include Botticelli’s15th Century circular masterpiece ‘Madonnaadoring the Child with Little St John’, which isin an equally awe inspiring original frame,carved and gold plated by Benedetto daMaiano. In the underground galleries lays anEtruscan mystery, in the shape of a sheep’sliver. The rare bronze model dates back over2000 years, and is covered with inscriptionsrelating to the religious beliefs of the day.

The grand piazzas of the old city centre givea spacious, elegant feel. The largest, PiazzaCavalli, is a popular gathering place for localsand tourists alike. It is dominated along oneside by the magnificent gothic styled ‘Gotico’,which has become the symbol of the city. ThePalazzo del Comune, to give it the correct title,is decorated with porticos and merlons thatindicate an undoubted influence from theneighbours in Lombardy.

Parma Reggio Emilia Piacenza

Parmigiano Reggiano cheese production in Baganzolino

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real passion – the immaculate and well stocked winecellar. Alongside the impressive range for the restaurant,is his own eclectic collection. He is justifiably proud of therarer examples, but when he mentioned the values, weall became far more cautious as we walked around!

The whole region has an air of quality about it. Unlike myhometown, where the buskers seem to limit their reper-toire to Oasis, Elvis, and The Beatles, in the art citiesalong the Via Emilia you’re much more likely to encounterVerdi being performed on a street corner. To be fair, thegreat composer did come from the area, and there is anannual Verdi Festival in Parma. The coming year is amilestone, as 2013 marks the 200th anniversary of his birth.

Earlier in the year is the Reggio Parma Festival, which issteadily expanding as it’s popularity increases. The city literally springs to life with classical music, opera, dance,

theatre, films, and most recently jazz.

However, no visit to Parma and its surroundings would becomplete without paying homage to two of its mostfamous exports; Parma ham, and Parmesan cheese (orParmigiano Reggiano to be absolutely correct. For thelatter, head a few miles out of the city to Baganzolino,and the Consorzio Produttori Latte.

This communal dairy serves the best farms in the region,and will arrange tours to show exactly how the famous



Castello di Agazzano

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A short drive into the foothills of the Apennines, south ofPiacenza, lays the village of Agazzano.

The Scotti family, who are somewhat famous in theseparts, built an imposing, turreted castle here way back inthe 13th Century, and they are still here. Nowadays, theoriginal quadrangle of the fortifications plays host toweddings and events, for those who like to do things instyle.

The later residential part of the complex now has a moresubtle way of waylaying its visitors, as deep in thedungeons it now houses an exclusive winery. The limitedproduction means the wine can only be purchased fromthe castle, or a few select outlets in the region. But theyare worth seeking out.

Wine tastings can be arranged for small groups, and theywill pour from de-labelled bottles of Milione Rosso, Ca’ delBarigello, and Rocca Barbera, to see if you can tell whichis which. Let me give you a hint... look at the ‘MR’, ‘CB’,and ‘RB’ that are helpfully marked on the bottom of thebottles!



cheeses are produced. The flimsy white hats and over-shoes that you need to wear may not be the height ofMilan fashion, but the jibes from your fellow travellersare a small price to pay for the experience.

As you watch from the gallery, it takes three men to liftthe new cheeses in the giant nets. They are forced intowooden moulds, which then float on water beds inanother room. Finally you take your life in your hands,as you walk amid towers of maturing cheeses, some ofthem many years old, and learn how those ruthlesscheese-masters will reject any poorly performing exam-ples without mercy.There are also ample places to witness the productionof Parma ham. One of the best is undoubtedly atanother castle, this time in the flat lowlands of the Povalley. The Antica Corte Pallavicina once stood on thebanks of the great river, until the river decided itpreferred a different course. Nowadays, just a smalltributary flows past, and the castle is now the home ofyet another Michelin stared chef – Massimo Spigaroli.

As you approach, there are hints as to the owner’spassion, since every spare bit of land seems to beplanted with (or grazed by) something that can beeaten.

Once inside, you carefully thread your way down theancient stone steps to the castles dungeon, at whichpoint the unmistakable aroma of ageing culatelli racesup to confront you like a medieval guardsman.

Negotiate the low doorways, skirt around a dimly litpassageway, and you are in a dark mysterious world,

Castello Fontanellato

How to Cheat at Wine Tasting...

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with objects gently brushing you on the shoulder as youmanoeuvre around. It takes a few moments for your eyesto adjust, and several more for your sense of smell to catchup, and then you realise that you are surrounded byhundreds and hundreds of hanging hams.

To the uninitiated they seemed to be randomly strung fromevery available inch of ceiling and wall space. I was advised,however, that there is a very precise system, and that themarkings on each one help determine how far they areplaced from the drying air which creeps into the tinywindow.

Unbelievably, there are over 6000 in these vaults, and withvalues nudging the €200 mark, you can see why they sliceit very thinly. As you exit, there is a short, but informativefilm, before you get to try or buy for yourself.

The Antica Corte Pallavicina also has a small number ofexclusive rooms in which you can stay. Personally, I lovedthem, although I would suggest taking a look; as featuressuch as a bath in the middle of the room may not be toeveryone’s taste. They ooze character, though, and in thewider setting of the castle you can almost feel yourselfletting your long-suppressed eccentric side loose on theworld... albeit temporarily.

USEFUL CONTACTS

Tourist Information: www.travelemiliaromagna.com

Residenza Torre San Martino: www.torresanmartino.it

Antica Corte Pallavicina: www.anticacortepallavicinarelais.it

Matilda di Canossa Resort: www.matildedicanossaresort.com

Palazzo Farnese: www.musei.piacenza.it

Castello di Agazzano: www.castellodiagazzano.it

Culinary Castles - Trevor Claringbold's Award Winning Article on Emilia Romagna

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