CTC-International Spring2013 WEB

www.ctcgroupe.com

Spring 2013

> CTC SoluTionsUS Market: rely on CtC teSting SolUtionS... p.4

> NewsenvironMentA global environmental solution in China!... p.3

> Testing SolutionsChineSe MarketChinese Footwear: a market under monitoring... p.6

> NewsaCCreditationCPSC & CNAS Accreditations for CTC... p.3

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asiaShanghai - ChinaTel.: +86 21 68 55 50 [email protected]

Dongguan - ChinaTel.: +86 769 23 03 77 [email protected]

Hong Kong - ChinaTel.: +852 24 29 70 [email protected]

Wenzhou - ChinaTel.: +86 577 28 80 10 [email protected]

Xiamen - ChinaTel.: +86 59 25 09 20 [email protected]

New Delhi - IndiaTel.: +91(0) 11 42 09 19 [email protected]

Ho Chi Minh City - Vietnam Tel.: +84 8 38 27 44 [email protected]

north americaCambridge (MA) - USATel.: +1 617 576 [email protected]

europe & africaLyon, Paris, Cholet - FranceTel.: +33 (0)4 72 76 10 [email protected]

Porto - Barcelona - [email protected]

www.ctcgroupe.com

summary> Summary

> News • p.3 •Environment: A global environmental solution in China!

•Appointment: An Environmental Lab Manager in China

•Development: Opening of CTC Xiamen

•Accreditation: CPSC & CNAS Accreditations for CTC

•CTCNewsinbrief

> CTC Solutions • p.4 US Market: Rely on CTC Testing Solutions

> Testing Solutions • p.6 Chinese Footwear: a market under monitoring

Jean-Luc CHAVEROTDevelopment and International Director, CTC Groupe

Edito> Edito

A fashion footwear is not a casual footwear. A hiking boots is not mountain boots. Nor do your customers use travel luggage as they do handbags. It is thus only logical that your inspection, testing, and quality partner should be a “specialist”.

Let us take an example. Suppose you want to put a new sport shoe on the market. You must provide a description to your marketing executives to help the design team develop a spe-cific product that meets customer expectations. But who are your customers? Children, young women, or seniors? Are they diabetic or athletes? Would they like to walk in the forest or climb the summits of the Alps? Are they experienced or new to the sport? As your product has to respond to customer needs, your partner must be able to bring specific skills, abilities, and equipment to the table.

For over 100 years, CTC experts have been assisting companies from start-ups to multinational corporations with footwear and leather goods.

There is no such thing as a “generic” product for CTC.

With its team of experienced professionals, unique know-how, and platforms exclusively dedicated to the various types of footwear, leather goods, and glove products, CTC has a comprehensive range of services to assist clients all along the life cycle of their products, from design and manufacturing to end-of-life management. We are committed to helping you improve your products and reach your performance and quality objectives.

CTC:Thespecialistforallfootwearandleathergoods.

ComEANDsEEusATiNTEr

NATioNAlfAirs

> APLF MM&T - Hong Kong, 25 to 27 March 2013, booth 1A,

A01 Hall 1

> All ChinA Shoe-TeCh - Wenzhou, 29 to 31 August 2013

> ModA ShAnghAi - Shanghai, 4 to 6 September 2013

> le Cuir à PAriS - Paris, 17 to 19 September 2013

> dongguAn ChinA ShoeS & ShoeTeC - Dongguan, 1 to 3

November 2013

> A+A - Düsseldorf, 5 to 8 November 2013

3CTC International - Spring 2013

> newsCtC GroupE

News

dEvElopmEntOpening Of CTC XiamenCTC continues its international expansion with the opening of CTC Xiamen. This 5th CTC site in China will provide audit and inspection services to Fujian and its vicinity, where several headquarters of international brands are located.

CTC XiamenR 226, Bingo Business Center, N° 57Hu Bin Bei Road, Si Ming DistrictXiamen, Fujian Province - ChinaTel: (+86) 59 25 09 20 [email protected]

appointmEntan envirOnmenTal lab manager in China

Helena PERCHE has been appointed Environmental Laboratory Supervisor of CTC Dongguan. She graduated with a degree in analytical chemistry in 2006 and worked as an R & D engineer in analytical development in Chile and Argentina. After a year at CTC Lyon as a Laboratory Supervisor, she is now tasked with setting up and running the environmen-tal laboratory of CTC Dongguan in China.Under the responsibility of CTC Dongguan Manager Antoine Barbar, Helena will be

developing the environmental lab of CTC Dongguan, enhancing its test methodology, providing technical support to our Chinese clients for the innocuousness lab, coordinating with the commer-cial team, and implementing client test programs.

> Contact: [email protected]

EnvironmEntA glObal EnvirOnmenTal sOluTiOn in China!In March 2013, CTC opened its CTC Dongguan laboratory for the environmental analysis of water, which is based in China. Drawing on extensive experience in chemical analysis and water effluent treatment in France, a skilled team of specialists, and cutting-edge equipment, CTC is expanding its international chemical business with a wide range of analyses on water, air, soil, sludge, and waste. In Europe, CTC is considered to be the leading specialist in water and effluent analysis for the leather, footwear, and garment industries.

Serving manufacturers and local authorities, it looks at global parameters like BOD, COD, suspended solids, nitrogen, and pH, as well as heavy metals, pesticides, chlorinated solvents, and PCBs.

This activity will be managed by Helena PERCHE, the new Environmental Laboratory Supervisor of CTC Dongguan.

> More information: [email protected]

CtC nEwS in BriEf> 10 years anniversary Of CTC in vieTnamSet up in 2002, CTC Vietnam will celebrate on March 20 its 10th anniversary during a cocktail with the Vietnamese clients of CTC.

> Contact CTC Vietnam: [email protected]

> inspeCTiOn in CTC indiaCTC India has reinforced its inspection network for the Chennai area with a dedicated team of CTC inspectors for footwear, leather goods and leather tanned material.

> 18Th uiTiC inTernaTiOnal TeChniCal fOOTwear COngressThe International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians (UITIC) will organize its 18th International Technical Footwear Congress in Guangzhou (China) from 13 to 16 November 2013. Footwear manufacturers and experts will discuss “Social Responsibility: a challenge for the footwear industry”.UITIC has entrusted the organization of the event to the China Leather Industry Association (CLIA). Yves MORIN, CTC Groupe CEO, is the President of UITIC (www.uitic.org).

> Official website of the congress: http://uitic-congress.chinaleather.org

aCCrEditationCpsC & Cnas aCCrediTaTiOns fOr CTCThe physical and chemical analysis lab of CTC Dongguan has received EN ISO/CEI 17025:2005 accreditation from the China National Accreditation Service (CNAS) for Conformity Assessment (reference L5912).

CTC is also now CPSC-accredited for several lead analysis methods. CTC Dongguan is the second lab to receive this American qualifica-tion, following the February 2011 accreditation of CTC Lyon in France.

> More information on the CNAS & CPSC accredited scopes: [email protected]

The

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NEW CTC BOOK

28,34 € VAT excluded

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> new bOOk

CTC International - Spring 20134

> CTC soluTionsuS markEt

us markeT: REly on CtC tEStinG SolutionSSince the opening of its American subsidiary in 2004, CTC Groupe has been delivering unique expertise to the world’s largest footwear market. Women’s footwear accounts for 40% of the market, making it a major target. CTC can give you its global eye to deliver quality assurance solutions and ensure your business.

CTC Groupe has been in the quality assurance business for over 100 years with various locations in France, Portugal, Spain, Tunisia, the US, China (Hong Kong, Shanghai, Dongguan, Xiamen, and Wenzhou), Vietnam, and India.

The US is the biggest importer of footwear in the world, with 2,384 million pairs entering the country every year. The American footwear industry generated about $48 billion in 2010, and women’s footwear accounted for 40% of the market that year, according to the National Shoe Retailers Association and the US Census Bureau.

It is therefore in the interest of the American footwear industry to value quality assurance for women’s footwear that incorporates chemical analysis and physical testing.

CTC Groupe is the world leader in footwear quality assurance and can provide the necessary support for products to be released on the US market.

> phYsicaL testsCTC’s expertise covers different physical tests for ladies’ footwear in order to ensure the quality and durability for the ladies’ footwear market.

High heels are often seen as a fashion symbol for ladies. Our heel attachment tests can offer brands security by helping them

PHYsiCAlsTEsT sTANDArD

Color fastness to crocking AATCC8 – ASTM D 5053

Upper/Sole adhesion ISO 17708

Slip resistance ASTM F609

Heel attachment ASTM F 2232

Slide fastener resistance ASTM D 2061

Water resistance of upper (Maeser) ASTM D 2099

Heel fatigue tester EN ISO 19956

Sizes conformity In House Method

Corrosion resistance ASTM B 117

Color fastness to perspiration AATCC 15

Tear strength resistance Upper (trouser) ASTM D 4704

Tear strength resistance Upper (double) ASTM D 2212

Thickness ASTM D 1813

Sole flexing

ISO 17707 (Bennewart)

Bata belt test pm 133

ASTM D 1052 (Rossflex)

Strap pull test Instron method

Touch and close fastener peel strengthDIN 3415 prEN ISO 22777

ASTM D5170

Touch and close fastener shear strengthDIN 3415 prEN ISO 22776

ASTM D 5169

AbrasionISO 4649 (method A)

ASTM D 1630

Whole shoe water resistance In House Method

Water absorption ISO 22649

Water vapor permeability IUP 15, EN ISO 14268

Laces resistance (Abrasion through eyelets)

ISO 22774

Abrasion resistance (Martindale)BS 5690 ASTM D 4966 ISO 12947-1

EN ISO 20344 § 6.12

Abrasion resistance (Tabber) ASTM D 3884

Abrasion resistance (Martindale)BS 5690 ASTM D 4966 ISO 12947-1

EN ISO 20344 § 6.12

Heel attachment (ASTm F 2232)

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guarantee the safety of customers who wear high heels. Nowadays, style is not the only thing governing a customer’s choice of shoes. Quality and durability are the main factors in their selection.

Thus, outsole quality is a driving factor for the customer. Outsoles of casual shoes can indeed wear off quite easily with daily use. Our footwear specialists would suggest the Abrasion Resistance test (ASTM D 1630 Standard Test Method for Rubber Property-Abrasion Resistance) for evaluating outsoles. The tests measure an essential quality of sole materials to determine how suitable they are for their intended usage.

Numerous testing methods exist, either standardized or developed by CTC. Our testing experts can help you identify consumer needs and provide you with targeted solutions for specific problems. A good way to get comparative testing and market positioning!

> chemicaL anaLYsisThe Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986, also called «Proposition 65” is a Californian regulation. It was intended to protect citizens and the State’s drinking water sources from che-micals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm, and to inform citizens about exposures to such chemicals.

To comply with the law, manufacturers must either ensure that consumer exposure to a list of 910 regulated chemicals in their products do not exceed the established safe harbor levels or label their product.

Enforcement is carried out through civil lawsuits against Proposition 65 violators. In the event of failure with this posting, any Californian citizen can be turned over against the businesses in the form of “60-Day Notes”. Some of these “60-Day Notes” relate to shoes and leather goods. The substances concerned are lead and some phthalates.

CTC Groupe would like to also introduce some of the European safety standards on the chemical substances use for the US footwear market.

At the moment, Azo Dyes are the most commonly used on paint and pigments on textile, leather and PVC. The limit for Azo Dyes according to REACh is 30 ppm so all the EU import products cannot exceed the limit of 30 ppm.

CTC Groupe is dedicated to help our clients (brand names, trading companies and factories) to heighten their awareness on the use of chemical substances.

Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions regarding our services: [email protected]. We will be glad to custo-mize your quality and testing program for your unique footwear products.

CTC can also help you for children shoes, casual shoe, etc. CTC is CPSIA Accredited in China and France.

suBsTANCEs sHoEsANDlEATHErgooDs

PhthalatesDEHP, BBP, DnHP, DBP, DIDP

1000 ppm

lead

In leather 300 ppm

In PVC, polymers 200 ppm

In metal

In surface coating (paint or other similar surface coating)

90 ppm

In leather 300 ppmLaurence Yung Commercial Manager South East AsiaHong Kong - ChinaTel.: +852 24 28 31 [email protected]

Hugues Emeraud Sales and Marketing Manager Greater ChinaShanghai - ChinaTel.: +86 21 68 55 50 32 [email protected]

Total Lead Content (CPSC methods)

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Come and see us at the next FFANY Fashion & footwear fair in New York, 5-7 June 2013.http://ffany.org/

> Contact:

CTC International - Spring 20136

> TesTing soluTionsChinESE MarkEt

Chinese FooTwear: A MarkEt UndEr MonitorinGCTC has been a major player in the Chinese footwear testing market since 1996: this unique experience makes CTC your global quality partner for securing your value chain in China. The first footwear manufacturing country enhanced its quality policy: let us take a closer look on this leading country.

With 15 years of business experience in China for leather, footwear, leather goods and PPE market (safety gloves and footwear); CTC can help you to define the right quality program and to manage your risk to meet the different international regulations and consu-mer needs. This article presents the main Chinese standard for shoes in China.

1. hoW Do the chinese authorities controL shoes quaLitY in china?There are two levels of controls on the Chinese market:

• When the shoes come from oversea and enter Chinese territory, the customs will control the shoes’ quality to make sure it respect Chinese regulation

• When the shoes are selling in Chinese market, the industry & commercial bureau will control the shoes’ quality

Governmental bodies implement controls of goods according to the availability of their manpower. They will also implement a focus every month on different industries (for example, January & February is dedicated to the food industry; March & April are for the toy industry, etc.)

At both the customs and sales level, they are actually taking the random checking to the merchandises.

2. is it manDatorY to test the proDucts soLD on the chinese marKet?There is no formal regulation requiring testing the products. However, it is mandatory to ensure quality of the products sold. It is therefore the brand’s responsibility to guarantee that quality is satisfying, and an efficient way to do it is to perform tests on the products.

Consequently, to sell your shoes on the Chinese market, in order to ensure your products’ quality and to avoid troubles or chec-king from Chinese authorities, it is recommended to make test according to Chinese GB standards.

3. What tests are requireD for the chinese marKet?Just a few words about the compulsory test and recommend test:.In Chinese standard, normally GB is compulsory while GB/T or QB/T are recommended tests. But because of the time necessary

to updated of GB standard, actually for this moment all the GB test are for MATERIAL, therefore most of time, GB/T and QB/T are used as the compulsory standard by customs or the industrial and commercial bureau, to test the shoes.Chinese authorities can apply the testing standard by themselves. Normally the shoes should fulfill the requirement of both GB and GB/T or QB/T, so customs or industry & commercial bureau can choose either GB to test, or GB/T QB/T to test. Most of time they will choose GB/T QB/T because it is for finished products.

4. What are the LaBeLLinG requirements? is there anYthinG specific to KnoW aBout siZinG anD corresponDinG LaBeLLinG?Indeed, labeling test is one of the key test in GB standard, and most of time all the GB requirement are fulfilled while labeling test is failed.

The Chinese standard QB/T 2673 “Footwear specification of marking” explains what kind of requirement you will need to fulfill. After a common normative references, this standard set the basic principles of the marking, the content and the way of labeling: size, name and address of manufacturer, place of origin, products name, upper materials description, duration of guarantee, standards use for each type of products, color, trademark, net weight, …

5. What are the risKs of not testinG shoes?As explained above, as long as you can make sure your shoes can fulfill Chinese quality requirement, you are not compulsory to do the test. But of course, without test you will not be able to understand the difference between your shoes quality and Chinese regulation.

In case your shoes are checked by Chinese authorities and the quality cannot reach Chinese requirement:

• If it is in Chinese custom: merchandises will be rejected

• If it is in sales store: merchandises will be confiscated and brand name will be reported to public media.

6. What aBout the cft& ctc partnership?CFT is the China National Testing Centre for Footwear, which has a solid partnership with CTC since 2008. CFT has been CTC Approved Lab since 2009. For this program CTC is working with CFT.

They possess certifications of CNAS and the CMA of CNCA, and it is a national testing organization and the national level testing laboratory for footwear that approved by the AQSIQ. It is one of the largest testing organizations in China. CFT belongs to CIQ


ShanghaiTel.: +86 21 68 55 50 [email protected]

DongguanTel.: +86 769 23 03 77 [email protected]

Hong KongTel.: +852 24 29 70 [email protected]

WenzhouTel.: +86 577 28 80 10 [email protected]

XiamenTel.: +86 59 25 09 20 [email protected]

system, which mainly provides technical support and laboratory testing to Chinese Customs. As the biggest laboratory that spe-cialized in footwear industry in China, the testing report issued by CFT enjoys wide recognition in China.

7. the proceDureFor more information about this program, please contact our CTC offices in China: Xiamen, Shanghai, Dongguan, Wenzhou and Hong Kong. Testing report are issued in both Chinese and English. Samples needed are: 3 pairs + 1 box (1 extra pair if the same model is submitted in 2 colors).

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Environmental Analysis

CTC offers a new range of services to help you to conduct your environmental surveys in China. Applying its solid expertise in the field of environmental and sustainable development, CTC Groupe offers:

 Chemical testing Environmental assessment

CTC | Environment | [email protected] | www.ctcgroupe.com

+86 769 23 03 77 70CTC Dongguan Clients Service

> CTC officies and laboraties in China:

" social responsibility: a challenge for the industry "footwear

13-16 November 2013GUANGZHOU (CHINA) & Dongguan

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18th INTERNATIONAL TECHNICAL FOOTWEAR CONGRESS

official eventorganizer

http://uitic-congress.chinaleather.org

Shangri-La hotelGuangzhou

CTC-International Spring2013 WEB

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