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60 DRIVEN 61DRIVEN

papua new guinea

Cruising Gone Wild in Papua New Guinea

Our close neighbour, Papua New Guinea, is one of the last truly wild frontiers. To fully experience this vivid and exciting land, adventure cruising is the way

Words and Photography Roderick Eime

Like fLeeting shadows in the undergrowth, they moved silently and stealthily, occasionally stopping, half-hidden, to check the progress of our canoes along the narrow, mangrove-lined creek. Smeared head-to-toe with thick, dark volcanic mud and just a tiara of mangrove leaves as camouflage, they were stalking us.

 Through the silent swamp our mysterious followers continue to monitor our journey like the fabled masalei (forest spirits) of local legend. The heavily-laden canoes glide effortlessly along the still waters, just yards from the densely-wooded embankments. Now our pursuers reveal themselves in spectacular fashion. Leaping out from behind huge trees, they bring our party to a halt with incomprehensible, blood-curdling cries. From hidden vantage points within the undergrowth, saplings are hurled at us and some bounce menacingly off the side of the canoes. Gasps of alarm are clearly heard from several passengers and muffled chatter comes from others as we try to interpret their apparently hostile intentions.

papua new guinea is a rugged, untamed land with an equally wild reputation. Largely devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, small ship cruising is the ideal method of travel

aBove ThE LuxuRiOuS OCEaNiC diSCOvERER.

Left ThE TuFi viLLaGERS.

60 DRIVEN 61DRIVEN

papua new guinea

Cruising Gone Wild in Papua New Guinea

Our close neighbour, Papua New Guinea, is one of the last truly wild frontiers. To fully experience this vivid and exciting land, adventure cruising is the way

Words and Photography Roderick Eime

Like fLeeting shadows in the undergrowth, they moved silently and stealthily, occasionally stopping, half-hidden, to check the progress of our canoes along the narrow, mangrove-lined creek. Smeared head-to-toe with thick, dark volcanic mud and just a tiara of mangrove leaves as camouflage, they were stalking us.

 Through the silent swamp our mysterious followers continue to monitor our journey like the fabled masalei (forest spirits) of local legend. The heavily-laden canoes glide effortlessly along the still waters, just yards from the densely-wooded embankments. Now our pursuers reveal themselves in spectacular fashion. Leaping out from behind huge trees, they bring our party to a halt with incomprehensible, blood-curdling cries. From hidden vantage points within the undergrowth, saplings are hurled at us and some bounce menacingly off the side of the canoes. Gasps of alarm are clearly heard from several passengers and muffled chatter comes from others as we try to interpret their apparently hostile intentions.

papua new guinea is a rugged, untamed land with an equally wild reputation. Largely devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, small ship cruising is the ideal method of travel

aBove ThE LuxuRiOuS OCEaNiC diSCOvERER.

Left ThE TuFi viLLaGERS.

62 DRIVEN 63DRIVEN

 The traditional challenge, thankfully, is all part of the show put on for us today by the Tufi villagers. Once strangers would be challenged and encouraged to state their purpose – whether friendly or hostile. Our passivity assumed, we are welcomed by anthony, the local chief, dressed in the stunning costume that makes Tufi one of the most spectacular cultural experiences in Papua New Guinea. Set amid stunning tropical fjords, Tufi is only accessible by air or sea and renowned for its diving, trekking and rare orchids. For the next hour we are feted like visiting royalty, shown the convoluted process of sago extraction, ritual tattooing and treated to local ballads performed by a tiny choir of children with the voices of angels.

 This delightful scene sets the mood for our 11-night, seaborne exploration along Papua New Guinea’s remote northern coast where we’ll make numerous such visits before swinging back to New Britain for the volcanic finale.

 “Thank you for visiting our village,” says anthony as the experience comes to a close, “please come back again soon. Once upon a time, we would be so happy to see you, we’d make sure you stay – we eat you up!” and with that delivery he reels back in raucous laughter slapping his tummy, bright orange, betel nut-stained teeth exaggerating his mirth.

Preserving and encouraging local tradition and culture are important elements of modern adventure travel, but for now i’m content this once sacred ritual is discussed in the past tense.

 Papua New Guinea is a rugged, untamed land with an equally wild reputation. Largely devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, small ship cruising is the ideal method of travel. With less than 100 passengers, some as few as 36, these perfectly appointed cruise vessels can pop in to a remote village somewhere and be gone again in a few hours without leaving a trace.

 Within the course of the last century, first contacts were still being made with remote tribes and cannibals continued to eat their dinner guests. devastated by war and plundered by unscrupulous miners and governments, Papua New Guinea doesn’t

immediately strike one as somewhere to go for a holiday – until you meet the people. Their genuine hospitality and warmth is difficult for suspicious, westernised visitors to interpret initially, but once acclimatised, their powerful generosity of spirit is penetrating.

 This is a land of magic and mysticism, exotic cultures and mind-boggling rituals like the convoluted (to us) Kula trade where chattels and ‘favours’ are exchanged in secret and sensuous ceremonies. Just 160 kilometres north of the Commonwealth of australia, Tok Pisin (Pidgin English) is the only unifying dialect among the 700-something unique languages. visitors

will find the true essence of the Melanesians along the coastal fringe between alotua in Milne Bay all the way to the mouth of the Sepik River, Papua New Guniea’s longest, and across to volcano-ravaged Rabaul on New Britain.

  Long before the disruptive intrusion of Europeans, the ancient Papuans plied the waters of the Solomon and Bismarck Seas in large, ornate canoes, expanding their influence with trade and diplomacy. Likewise, we employ the most relevant transport for our own exploration, Cairns-based Coral Princess Cruises luxury expedition yacht, Oceanic discoverer.

This exclusivity, i’m pleased to report, does not equate to haughty disregard for the isolated communities of Papua New Guinea. While generally happy and healthy thanks to an abundant diet of fresh vegetables and seafood, there are the privations of island life to contend with. Expedition cruisers often assist by bringing educational materials, books, clothing, simple medicines and first-aid supplies in their luggage – and refilling it again with exquisite art, custom carvings and souvenirs.

 We bid a reluctant farewell to the villagers at Tufi as the excited children scamper along the old wharf to get one more wave before we disappear. Even though we will soon be one our way to the next village, there’s feeling we will never really leave. d

once strangers would be challenged and encouraged to state their purpose – whether friendly or hostile. our passivity assumed, we are welcomed by anthony, the local chief

ThE TuFi PEOPLE aRE WELCOMiNG aNd FRiENdLy TOWaRdS TOuRiSTS ENROuTE via ThEiR viLLaGE.

papua new guinea

62 DRIVEN 63DRIVEN

 The traditional challenge, thankfully, is all part of the show put on for us today by the Tufi villagers. Once strangers would be challenged and encouraged to state their purpose – whether friendly or hostile. Our passivity assumed, we are welcomed by anthony, the local chief, dressed in the stunning costume that makes Tufi one of the most spectacular cultural experiences in Papua New Guinea. Set amid stunning tropical fjords, Tufi is only accessible by air or sea and renowned for its diving, trekking and rare orchids. For the next hour we are feted like visiting royalty, shown the convoluted process of sago extraction, ritual tattooing and treated to local ballads performed by a tiny choir of children with the voices of angels.

 This delightful scene sets the mood for our 11-night, seaborne exploration along Papua New Guinea’s remote northern coast where we’ll make numerous such visits before swinging back to New Britain for the volcanic finale.

 “Thank you for visiting our village,” says anthony as the experience comes to a close, “please come back again soon. Once upon a time, we would be so happy to see you, we’d make sure you stay – we eat you up!” and with that delivery he reels back in raucous laughter slapping his tummy, bright orange, betel nut-stained teeth exaggerating his mirth.

Preserving and encouraging local tradition and culture are important elements of modern adventure travel, but for now i’m content this once sacred ritual is discussed in the past tense.

 Papua New Guinea is a rugged, untamed land with an equally wild reputation. Largely devoid of roads and dotted with tiny islands, small ship cruising is the ideal method of travel. With less than 100 passengers, some as few as 36, these perfectly appointed cruise vessels can pop in to a remote village somewhere and be gone again in a few hours without leaving a trace.

 Within the course of the last century, first contacts were still being made with remote tribes and cannibals continued to eat their dinner guests. devastated by war and plundered by unscrupulous miners and governments, Papua New Guinea doesn’t

immediately strike one as somewhere to go for a holiday – until you meet the people. Their genuine hospitality and warmth is difficult for suspicious, westernised visitors to interpret initially, but once acclimatised, their powerful generosity of spirit is penetrating.

 This is a land of magic and mysticism, exotic cultures and mind-boggling rituals like the convoluted (to us) Kula trade where chattels and ‘favours’ are exchanged in secret and sensuous ceremonies. Just 160 kilometres north of the Commonwealth of australia, Tok Pisin (Pidgin English) is the only unifying dialect among the 700-something unique languages. visitors

will find the true essence of the Melanesians along the coastal fringe between alotua in Milne Bay all the way to the mouth of the Sepik River, Papua New Guniea’s longest, and across to volcano-ravaged Rabaul on New Britain.

  Long before the disruptive intrusion of Europeans, the ancient Papuans plied the waters of the Solomon and Bismarck Seas in large, ornate canoes, expanding their influence with trade and diplomacy. Likewise, we employ the most relevant transport for our own exploration, Cairns-based Coral Princess Cruises luxury expedition yacht, Oceanic discoverer.

This exclusivity, i’m pleased to report, does not equate to haughty disregard for the isolated communities of Papua New Guinea. While generally happy and healthy thanks to an abundant diet of fresh vegetables and seafood, there are the privations of island life to contend with. Expedition cruisers often assist by bringing educational materials, books, clothing, simple medicines and first-aid supplies in their luggage – and refilling it again with exquisite art, custom carvings and souvenirs.

 We bid a reluctant farewell to the villagers at Tufi as the excited children scamper along the old wharf to get one more wave before we disappear. Even though we will soon be one our way to the next village, there’s feeling we will never really leave. d

once strangers would be challenged and encouraged to state their purpose – whether friendly or hostile. our passivity assumed, we are welcomed by anthony, the local chief

ThE TuFi PEOPLE aRE WELCOMiNG aNd FRiENdLy TOWaRdS TOuRiSTS ENROuTE via ThEiR viLLaGE.

papua new guinea