Crossing the Mexican-American Border, Every Day the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic...
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border,
Every Day Thousands of people in the El Paso-Ciudad Juarez region live a binational existence. Its not easy.
ALANA SEMUELS | JAN 25, 2016 | BUSINESS
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Alana Semuels
EL PASO, TexasShe leaves university around 5 p.m., just as the sun is
falling behind the dark mountains to the south, and steers her white
Honda Civic down the hill toward the border. Its a short drive, maybe
10 minutes, past the fast-food restaurants and strip malls of El Paso
and over the I-10, where Texans sit in traffic to head home to the
suburbs, then alongside the two fenceselectric and brown metalthat
divide Texas from Mexico.
Then, she waits. Valeria Padilla is accustomed to waitingfor four
years she has commuted from the home she shares with her mother
and grandmother in Ciudad Juarez to the campus of the University of
Texas-El Paso, where she, like many other Mexican nationals, qualifies
for in-state tuition. But the wait used to be to get into the United
States. Now, she waits to get out, too.
Its horrible right now. Its like, no, no, no to crossing, she tells me,
as she sits in the long line of cars waiting to get out of the United
States. Wait-times to get into Mexico have become longer after U.S.
Customs and Border Protection began requiring Mexican agents to
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
check cars entering Mexico for guns and money, according to Tony
Payan, the director of the Mexico Institute at Rice University.
We are truly making the border a difficult MORE FROM OUR PARTNERS place to live. It seems that this is by design,
he told me.
Upheaval in the Factories of Juarez Indeed, as Padilla and I cross the border
after about an hour of waiting, crawling Where Is All the Worlds Money Going? slowly down El Paso streets and then past
gun-toting Mexican agents whose faces areRevisiting a Jim Crow-Era Guide for Traveling While Black covered, supposedly so they wont be
identified for bribery, our car is flagged and
a Mexican agent asks Valeria to pull over
and open her trunk. This is typical, and its the reason that it can take
Padilla an hour or two to travel the three miles from campus to Juarez
on any given day. Traveling from Juarez to El Paso has gotten faster
since she joined a program that allows for rapid border crossing
before, it could take two hours each direction. Now its just the trip into
Juarez that requires a long wait.
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Oh youre lucky today, Padilla jokes to me as we pull over in the dark,
and the agent shines a flashlight in the car.
This is the life of someone who lives on the Mexican side of the border:
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
pesos and pennies in the little container between the seats, Chihuahua
license plates and a mining-pick emblem on the back of her car (the
University of Texas-El Pasos mascot is a miner).
Traffic between El Paso and Juarez in 2010 (Alexandre Meneghini / AP)
El Paso is the largest metropolitan area on the Texas border, and the El
Paso-Juarez-Las Cruces region calls itself one of the largest binational
regions in the world, with 2.5 million people. Thousands of people
cross both ways over the border every dayMexican elementary kids
heading to U.S. public schools, U.S. residents working in Ciudad
Juarez, students like Padilla attending U.S. colleges and universities.
But binational doesnt mean unifiednot when its so difficult to get
back and forth between two countries, and when theres such a strong
us-versus-them mentality coming from one side.
When Mexico sends its people, theyre not sending their best. Theyre
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sending people that have lots of problems, and theyre bringing those
problems with us, Donald Trump has said, to cheering crowds.
Hes presumably not talking about Padilla, since shes actually a U.S.
citizen. She was born in El Paso, when her parents lived there, but then
her parents split up and moved back to Mexico. Her father cant cross
into Texas anymore, since someone stole his passport and used it to
run drugs. Her mother simply doesnt want to.
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Since she lives in Juarez, she has to deal with the daily humiliations
that anyone who crosses the border has to face, if their skin is brown.
Because she is who she is, she laughs them off.
When you live in Juarez, you know your status. You just say, Okay,
Im going to wait two or three hours in line, she says.
Padillas daily life, and indeed that of many people who live on the
U.S.-Mexico border, makes vivid the weight of the fates that are
determined by accidents of birth. Padilla has more freedom to move
around than many of the kids she went to high school with in Juarez
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
because of where her mother gave birth.
But what if Padilla had been born in Juarez? Shed still be the same
person: Valeria who grew up in Juarez, who loves La Nueva Central,
the old timey-caf that serves lattes and pastries and Chinese food in
Juarez just down the street from the cathedral, who prefers her beer
with Clamato juice, absolutely loves her eyebrows and has never dated
a gringo, as she puts it. Shed still be the Valeria who wants to be a film
producer, to head to Hollywood after school if she can somehow find
the money, who is working on a documentary on the strip clubs of
Juarez. Shed just be that Valeria without a U.S. passport and with a
harder life.
Padilla in La Nueval Central, a Juarez cafe (Alana Semuels / The Atlantic)
Not that it has been easy crossing to school every day from Juarez. This
is the first year shes had a car. She took out student loans to pay for it.
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Walking for three years was miserable. To get to the border crossing
without a car she had to take three buses. Once, she tried to walk and
suffered a heat stroke. Then her mother started dropping her off at the
border. Shed walk over the Bridge of the Americas, the cement
walkway that spans two countries over the dry gulch of the Rio Grande,
under bright spotlights and series of fences, and catch a bus up the hill
to school. She broke her ankle crossing in the winter of 2013. It was icy
and she was running lateshes always running lateand she was
hurrying across the bridge to catch the bus and slipped on the ice. She
convinced her boyfriend to drive her to school so she wouldnt miss
classes. When she finally got home, her mother suggested she could
heal it with arnica, a cream that mothers everywhere say can cure all.
When she finally went to the doctor and found out it was broken, he
assured her arnica would not have worked.
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There are other indignities. Padilla overheard a student call her mother
a wetback when the two went to an admitted-students weekend.
Latinos in Texas can be just as judgmental about Mexicans as white
people, she says.
Even though were on the border, people are racist against Mexicans,
she sighs. But youre American, I point out. They still stereotype you
anyways. They see the last name, they hear the accent.
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
There was the border-patrol officer who asked her, when she carried a
tripod, if she was transporting a firearm. (She wonders: Did he expect
her to answer yes? Did he think she was that dumb?) There was the
border-patrol officer who would ask her to marry him every day she
crossed on foot, telling her that hed make a nice life for her, that she
wouldnt have to work so hard. He was the first officer she came across
once she got a car he asked her to marry him again. She could get a
nicer car, he said.
Padillas mother never wanted her to go across to school across the
border.
Every day, she was like, You dont have to do this. Come back to
Juarez. You will have money in Juarez, she says. Her mother thinks
its humiliating to wait in the lines to get in and out, to go to school
beside people who look at you and think, wetback. She thinks its
humiliating to pay $150 to the U.S. government and $300 to the
Mexican government to join the Secure Electronic Network for
Travelers Rapid Inspection program, or SENTRI, which allows her to
enter into the U.S. without waiting in line. When Padilla got accepted
as a transfer student into UT-Austin, her mother put her foot down. It
was too expensive and too far away.
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
Padilla goes to UTEP because she wants to set out on her own. She
wants to be adventurous and escape the bubble of a world her parents
have created in Juarez. If her car breaks down in Juarez, she can call
her mom. If she has trouble with a cranky pharmacist who refuses to
serve her in Juarez, she calls her dad. In El Paso, she needs to figure
things out herself. She figured out how to take two buses to a job at a
tax-preparation office in El Paso that netted her $60 a day and free
food. She figured out how to get elected as a senator-at-large in UTEPs
student government. (She reached fellow Mexican students by walking
the Bridge of the Americas to hand out her campaign literature. She is
the only Juarez resident on the student government.)
Besides, she likes walking between the strange, towering red-and-gold
buildings of the UTEP campus, which were modeled on Bhutanese
architecture. She likes giving tours, pointing out the administration
building featured in the film Glory Road, chatting about the UTEP
basketball teams first-in-the-NCAA all-black starting lineup.
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
Padilla on UTEPs Bhutanese-inspired campus (Alana Semuels / The Atlantic)
There arent the same opportunities in Juarez. Her mother, who has a
graduate degree and works for the Mexican federal government, makes
less money than Valeria makes in her minimum-wage job at the
university. One professor who works at UTEP and gets American wages
but lives in Juarez has a house with a cinema and two swimming pools.
Mexico doesnt have the same internships or film classes as Texas has.
Its universities in Juarez dont have the same sweeping campuses and
sports teams as Texas universities do.
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
When Padilla graduated from high school in 2011, just about everyone
was trying to get out of Juarez. The violence there had claimed 3,000
lives in one year alone. (In 2014, by comparison, there were 424
killings.) Around that time, Valerias mother, driving down a busy road,
saw a man put a gun to another mans head and pull the trigger. She
saw his head explode.
On the UTEP campus, Padilla and I ran into a friend of hers named
Isaac Bencomo, who left Juarez during the violence, moving in with a
friend in a trailer in El Paso. He finished high school there, went to
UTEP, and has since graduated and is becoming a pediatric nurse
practitioner. He wants to legally immigrate to the U.S.
Personally, Juarez for me is a lot of bad memories, Bencomo told me.
A lot of my friends left. Its just very sad there.
Padilla isnt so sure she wants to forever leave Juarez behind. She loves
walking the streets and seeing the murals of a young Juan Gabriel, a
famous singer from Juarez, of going to the nightclubs and gossiping
with childhood friends in Spanish, of being a part of a community that
is trying to rebuild itself after years of being known as the murder
capital of the world.
Some people dont like their roots, but thats what Im trying to
embrace, she says, after the border agents have let us through to
Juarez and she takes us on an uncrowded highway along the border.
We pass trucks lined up for miles, waiting to enter the U.S., and can see
the bright lights of a stadium of a Texas high school just a few hundred
feet away, on the other side of the border. We visit her high school and
the Plaza de Armas, where we gaze at a historical cathedral with two
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Portraits of the Unseen Domestic Laborers Behind L.A.'s Mansions
Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
picturesque bell towers. Padilla feels at home here, but she wont stay
forever: She knows shed be crazy to give up the opportunity to live on
the other side, among people who maybe dont want her therepeople
who dont think twice about the luck of their birth, who dont have to
wonder about where they belong.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
ALANA SEMUELS is a staff writer at The Atlantic. She was previously a national correspondent for the Los Angeles Times.
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
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Crossing the Mexican-American Border Every Day - The Atlantic
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