We will begin by making a slip knot on the crochet hook about 6 inches from the free end of the yarn. You will first start by creating a loop with the yarn. Be sure that the free end of the yarn is dangling behind your loop (see illustration 3).

Insert the crochet hook through the center of the loop and hook the free end (see illustration 4).

Pull this through and up onto the working area of the crochet hook (see illustration 5).

Pull the free yarn end to tighten the loop (see illustration 6). The loop on the crochet hook should be firm, but loose enough to slide back and forth easily on the hook. Be sure you still have about a 6-inch yarn end.

Once you have the yarn wrapped, hold the base of the slip knot with the thumb and index finger of your left hand.

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and hook it (see illustration 8). Draw hooked yarn through the loop of the slip knot on the hook and up onto the working area of the crochet hook (see arrow on illustration 9); you have now made one chain stitch (see illustration 10).

Step 3: Again, hold the base of the slip knot and bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front (see illustration 11). Hook it and draw through loop on the hook. You have made another chain stitch (see illustration 12). We will repeat Step 3 for each additional chain.

It is important to note that you should always move the left thumb and index finger up the chain close to the crochet hook after each new stitch or two (see illustration 13). This helps you control the work. Also, be sure to pull each new stitch up onto the working area of the hook; otherwise your starting chain stitches will become too tight.

Once you have worked the beginning chain, you are ready to begin the stitches required to make any crochet project. These stitches are worked into the foundation chain. For practice, crochet six chains loosely. When counting your chain stitches at the start of a pattern—which you must do very carefully before continuing—note that the loop on the crochet hook is never counted as a stitch and the starting slip knot is never counted as a stitch.

Now stop and look at the chain. The front looks like a series of interlocking Vs (see illustration 14), and each stitch has a bump or back bar at the back (see illustration 15).

You will never work into the first chain from the crochet hook unless your instructions state otherwise. Depending on the stitch, you will work into the second, third, fourth, etc. chain from the crochet hook. The instructions will always state how many chains to skip before starting the first stitch. When working a stitch, insert the crochet hook from the front of the chain, through the center of the

V and under the corresponding bar on the back of the same stitch (see illustration 16a).

Excluding the first stitch, you will work into every stitch in the chain unless the crochet pattern states differently, but not into the starting slip knot (see illustration 16b). Be sure that you do not skip that last chain at the end.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Single Crochet Row 1

We will now begin working Row 1 of single crochet. Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain 6. Skip the first chain from the crochet hook, insert hook in the second chain through the center of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front (see illustration 17).

Draw yarn through chain and up onto the working area of the crochet hook. You now have two loops on the hook (see illustration 18).

Step 2: Again, bring the yarn over the hook from back to front, and draw it through both loops on the crochet hook (see illustration 19).

One loop will remain on the hook; you have made one single crochet (see illustration 20).

Step 3: Insert hook in the next chain as before, hook the yarn from back to front and draw it through the chain stitch. Yarn over again and draw through both loops. It is important to know that the terms “hook the yarn” and “yarn over” have the same meaning. In both instances, you will bring the yarn over the hook from back to front. Repeat step 3 in each remaining chain, taking care to work in the last chain, but not in the slip knot. Remember, as you work, to be careful not to twist the chain; keep all the Vs facing you. You have completed one row of single crochet and should now have five stitches in the row (see illustration 21).

WORKING ROW 2: How to Single Crochet Row 2

To work the second row of single crochet, you need to turn the work counterclockwise, as shown in illustration 22a, so you can work back across the first row. Do not remove the crochet hook from the loop as you do this (see illustration 22b). Now you need to bring the yarn up to the correct height to work the first stitch. So, to raise the yarn, chain 1 (this is called a turning chain).

This row and all the following rows of single crochet will be worked into a previous row of single crochet, not into the beginning chain as you did before. Remember that when you worked into the starting chain, you inserted the crochet hook through the center of the V and under the bar. This is only done when working into a starting chain. The first single crochet of the row is worked in the last stitch of the previous row (see illustration 23), not into the beginning chain.

Insert hook in the last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops, bring theyarn over the hook from back to front and draw yarn through stitch and up onto the working area of the crochet hook. You now have two loops on the hook. Again, bring the yarn over the hook from back to front and draw it through both loops on the crochet hook. Work a single crochet into each single crochet to the end, taking care to work in each stitch, especially the last stitch, which is easy to miss (see illustration 24).

Let’s stop now and count your stitches; you should still have five single crochets on the row (see illustration 25).

You can continue practicing or fasten off.

FASTENING OFF

After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end tight to close.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Double Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: Make a slip knot and chain 14. Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front, skip the first three chains from the hook and then insert the hook in the fourth chain (see illustration 26).

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook; you now have three loops on the hook (see illustration 27).

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw through the first two loops on the hook (see illustration 28). You now have two loops on the hook (see illustration 29).

Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw through both loops on the hook (see illustration 30).

You have now completed one double crochet; one loop remains on the hook (see illustration 31).

Continue working one double crochet in each remaining chain across. After working in each chain across, count your double crochet stitches. There should be 12 of them, counting the first three chain stitches you skipped at the beginning of the row as a double crochet (see illustration 32).

Turn your work counterclockwise and we will begin working row 2.

WORKING ROW 2: How to Double Crochet in Row 2

To work row 2, you need to bring the yarn or thread up to the correct height for the next row. To raise the yarn, chain 3 (this is called the turning chain). The three chains in the turning chain just made count as the first double crochet of the new row so skip the first double crochet and work a double crochet in the second stitch. Be sure to insert the crochet hook under top two loops of the stitch; illustrations 33a and 33b indicate the correct and incorrect placement of this stitch.

We will continue to work a double crochet in each remaining stitch across the previous row; at the end of each row, be sure to work the last double crochet in the top of the three skipped chains from the previous row. Be sure to insert the crochet hook in the center of the V (and back bar) of the top chain of the third chain of beginning chain (illustration 34). Stop and count your double crochets; there should be 12 stitches.

You can continue practicing or fasten off.

FASTENING OFF

After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Half Double Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: First make a slip knot and chain 13. Bring the yarn once over thecrochet hook from back to front, skip the first two chains and then insert the hook in the third chain from the hook (see illustration 35).

Remember not to count the loop on the hook as a chain. Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook. You now have three loops on the hook (see illustration 36).

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it though all three loops on the hook in one motion (see illustration 37).

You have completed one half double crochet; one loop remains on the hook (see illustration 38).

To finish the row, continue to work one half double crochet in each remaining chain across the row. Now that we have completed the row, you should stop and count your stitches. You should have 12 half double crochets, counting the first two chains you skipped at the beginning of the row as a half double crochet (see illustration 39). Turn your work counterclockwise.

WORKING ROW 2: How to Half Double Crochet in Row 2

To work row 2, you need to bring the yarn or thread up to the correct height for the next row. To raise the yarn, chain two (this is called the turning chain). Like double crochet, the turning chain counts as a stitch in half double crochet unless your pattern specifies otherwise. Chain 2, skip the first half double crochet of the previous row; be sure to insert the crochet hook under top two loops of the stitch, work a half double crochet in the second stitch (see illustration 40) and in each remaining stitch across the previous row.

You can continue practicing or fasten off. If you are continuing on, remember to chain 2 before your first half double crochet.

FASTENING OFF

After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.

WORKING ROW 1: How to Treble Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: First make a slip knot and chain 15 stitches loosely. Wrap the yarnaround the crochet hook from back to front twice, skip the first four chains and then insert the hook into the fifth chain from the hook (see illustration 41).

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook (from back to front) and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook; you now have four loops on the hook (see illustration 42).

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the first two loops on the hook (see illustration 43a).You now have three loops on the hook (see illustration 43b).

Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook again and draw it through the next two loops on the hook (see illustration 44a). Two loops remain on the hook (see illustration 44b).

Step 5: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through both remaining loops on the hook (see illustration 45).

You now have completed one treble crochet; one loop remains on the hook (see illustration 46).

Continue working the 5 steps in each of the remaining chains across. When you have worked your last chain, count your stitches: there should be 12 treble crochets, counting the first four chains you skipped at the beginning of the row as a treble crochet (see illustration 47);

Turn your work counterclockwise and we will begin working row 2.

WORKING ROW 2: How to Treble Crochet in Row 2

To work row 2, you need to bring the yarn or thread up to the correct height for the next row. To raise the yarn, chain four (this is called the turning chain). The four chains in the turning chain just made count as the first treble crochet on the new row. Skip the first stitch and work a treble crochet in the second stitch (see illustration 48). Be sure to insert the crochet hook under top two loops of each stitch.

We will continue to work a treble crochet in each remaining stitch across the previous row; be sure to work the last treble crochet in the top of the beginning chain from the previous row. Stop and count your treble crochets; there should be 12 stitches.

You can continue practicing or fasten off.

FASTENING OFF

After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.

The slip stitch is the shortest of all crochet stitches and is really more a technique than a stitch. Slip stitches are usually used to move yarn across a group of stitches without adding height, or they may be used to join work when working in rounds. First we will demonstrate how to use the slip stitch to move yarn across stitches. We will begin by chaining 10. Row 1: To work row 1, we will be using the double crochet stitch and will double crochet in the fourth chain from the crochet hook and in each chain across. To begin the double crochet, yarn over the hook from back to front, insert the hook in the fourth chain from hook, yarn over again and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook; you should have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw though the first two loops on the hook. You now have two loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook. One double crochet is completed and six more to go. Turn work. On the next row, you are going to slip stitch across the first four stitches before beginning to work double crochet again.

Row 2: To work row 2, instead of making three chains for the turning chain as you would usually do for a second row of double crochet, this time just chain one. The turning chain-one does not count as a stitch; therefore, insert the crochet hookunder both loops of the first stitch, yarn over and draw the yarn through both loops of the stitch and loop on the hook (see illustration 49); one slip stitch made.

We will now work a slip stitch in the same manner in each of the next three stitches. Now we’re going to finish the row in double crochet; first you will chain 3 to get yarn at the right height (the chain 3 counts as a double crochet), then work a double crochet in each of the remaining stitches. You can see that we moved the yarn across with slip stitches and added very little height (see illustration 50).

How to Use a Slip Stitch to Join a Chain Into a Circle:

Next, we will demonstrate how to use a slip stitch to join a chain into a circle. Knowing how to join a chain into a circle is important as it is the way many hats and motifs, such as granny squares, are started. We will begin by chaining 6. Next, you will insert the crochet hook through the first chain you made which is next to the slip knot (see illustration 51).

Yarn over and draw it through the chain and through the loop on hook; you have now joined six chains into a circle or a ring.

How to Use a Slip Stitch to Join the End of a Round to the Beginning of the Same Round:

Next, we will demonstrate how use a slip stitch to join the end of one round to the beginning of the same round. We will begin by chaining 6. Next, you will join the chain 6 with a slip stitch in the first chain you made to form the ring. We will now chain 3, and will then work 11 double crochet into the center of the ring. To double crochet, first bring yarn over the crochet hook from back to front, then insert the crochet hook in the middle of the ring; yarn over again and draw it through the loop and up onto the working area of the hook. You now have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on the crochet hook, yarn over and draw through the remaining two loops on the crochet hook. You have now completed the first double crochet. We will do this 10 more times. Insert the crochet hook into the third chain of the beginning chain 3 (see illustration 52). Yarn over and draw it through the chain and through the loop on the hook; you have now joined the round of double crochets.

Lesson 11: How to Join Yarn

How to Crochet & Basic Stitches

To add a new skein join new yarn at the end of a row whenever possible. To do this, work the last

stitch with the old yarn until two loops remain on the hook, then with the new yarn complete the

stitch.

To join new yarn in the middle of a row, when about 36 inches of the old yarn remains, work several

more stitches with the old yarn, working the stitches over the end of new yarn (shown in double

crochet). Then change yarns in stitch as previously explained.

Working the front or back loops only of a crochet stitch will leave a horizontal bar exposed on the

fabric. When working in the back or front loop the crochet fabric becomes more elastic than the

traditional way of working under both loops. You can crochet in the front or back loop only of any

crochet stitch.

The crochet fabric piece shown here demonstrates crocheting in the traditional manner under both

loops, and the front and back loop of single crochet stitches using double crochet stitches.

Traditional Crochet Hook Placement

When working a traditional crochet stitch you insert the crochet hook from the front of the chain,

through the center of the “V” and under the corresponding bar on the back of the same stitch. You

can see that it is below the front and back loops.

Working in the back loop To crochet in the back loop of a stitch, insert your crochet hook underneath the back loop only and

make the stitch as indicated in your pattern.

Working in the front loop To crochet in the front loop of a stitch, insert your crochet hook underneath the front loop only and

make the stitch as indicated in your pattern.

KNITTING

The first thing you have to do when you start a knitting project is to get some stitches on your needle --

this is called Casting On. Learning several different ways to cast on lets you choose which one to use.

Some methods produce a firm, stable edge and others a soft, elastic edge.

Make a slip knot on the right knitting needle. Place the

thumb and index finger of your left hand between the yarn

ends with the long yarn end over your thumb, and the strand

from the skein over your index finger. Close your other

fingers over the strands to hold them against your palm.

Spread your thumb and index fingers apart and draw the

yarn into a “v.” Place the knitting needle in front of the

strand around your thumb and bring it underneath this

strand. Carry the knitting needle over and under the strand

on your index finger. Draw through the loop on your thumb.

Drop the loop from your thumb and draw up the strand to

form a stitch on the knitting needle. Repeat until you have

cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

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Pick up the working yarn with your left hand and create a loop. Twist the loop around a half turn to the

right. Put the loop on the knitting needle and pull the working yarn to tighten. Repeat until you have

cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

Make a slip knot on the left knitting needle. Knit a stitch in the loop and place it on the left knitting needle. Insert the right knitting needle between the last two stitches on the left knitting needle. Knit a stitch and place it on the left knitting needle. Repeat until you have cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

Make a slip knot on the left knitting needle. Knit a stitch in the loop and place it on the left knitting

needle. Repeat until you have cast on the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

How to Cast On

Using waste yarn and a crochet hook the same size as the project knitting needle, make a chain that has a few more stitches than the number of stitches to be cast on. Cut the waste yarn and knot the cut end. Using a knitting needle, pick up and knit a stitch in the back "bump" of each chain stitch until the required number of stitches is on the knitting needle. When the pattern indicates, remove the waste yarn. Starting at the knotted end of the crochet chain, undo a loop of the crochet chain and insert the knitting needle into the stitch that has been freed (this stitch is on the original first row of knitting). Continue to undo the crochet chain until all the stitches are on the needle.

KNIT

With yarn in back, insert the tip of the right knitting needle from front to back into the next stitch on the left knitting needle. Bring the yarn under and over the tip of the right knitting needle, pull the loop through the stitch. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle.

PURL

With yarn in back, insert the tip of the right knitting needle

from front to back into the next stitch on the left knitting

needle. Bring the yarn under and over the tip of the right

knitting needle, pull the loop through the stitch. Slide the

stitch off the left knitting needle.

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Binding Off is a process by which stitches are removed from the knitting needles

in a secure way so that the knitted fabric will not unravel.

Knit the first two stitches on the left knitting needle. Insert the tip of the left knitting needle into the first stitch worked on the right knitting needle. With the left knitting needle, lift the first stitch over the second stitch and off the right knitting needle. Knit the next stitch and repeat. When one stitch remains on the right knitting needle, cut the yarn and draw the tail through the last stitch to fasten off.

Purl the first two stitches on the left knitting needle. Insert the tip of the left knitting needle into the first stitch worked on the right knitting needle. With the left knitting needle, lift the first stitch over the

second stitch and off the right knitting needle. Purl the next stitch and repeat. When one stitch remains on the right knitting needle, cut the yarn and draw the tail through the last stitch to fasten

off.

Hold the two knitting needles with the stitches to be joined with tips facing to the right and with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. With a third knitting needle, knit together a stitch from the front knitting needle with one from the back knitting needle. Repeat, knit a stitch from the front

knitting needle with one from the back knitting needle. Pass the first stitch on the right knitting needle over the second stitch. Continue knitting a front and back pair of stitches together, then binding one off, until all stitches have been joined and bound off.

Cut the working yarn, leaving a tail about 3-4 times the length of the row you are binding off. Thread the end of the yarn through the eye of a tapestry needle. *Insert the tapestry needle through the first two stitches on the left knitting needle as if to purl. Pull the yarn through. Insert the tapestry needle through the first stitch on the left knitting needle as if to knit. Pull the yarn through and slip the stitch off the needle. Repeat from * until all stitches have been bound off.

Increasing adds stitches to those already on the knitting needle, making the fabric wider.

(YO)

Bring yarn to front and over top of right knitting needle. Knit the next stitch.

Bring yarn over top of right knitting needle and then to front again. Purl the next stitch.

(KFB)

Knit the next stitch but do not remove the stitch from the left knitting needle. Insert the right knitting

needle behind the left knitting needle and knit again into the back of the same stitch. Slip the original

stitch off the left knitting needle.

(PFB)

Purl the next stitch but do not remove the stitch from the left knitting needle. Insert the right knitting needle behind the left knitting needle and purl again into the back of the same stitch. Slip the original stitch off the left knitting needle.

(M1)

With your thumb, make a backward loop over the right knitting needle. Slip the loop onto the knitting needle and pull to tighten.

Make 1 With Left Twist (M1L) Insert the left knitting needle from front to back under the strand that runs between the stitch on the right knitting needle and the stitch on the left knitting needle. With the right knitting needle, knit into the back of the loop on the left knitting needle.

Make 1 With Left Twist Purl Side Insert the left knitting needle from front to back under the strand that runs between the stitch on the right needle and the stitch on the left needle. With the right knitting needle, purl into the back of the loop on the left knitting needle.

Make 1 With Right Twist (M1R) Insert the left knitting needle from back to front under the strand that runs between the stitch on the right knitting needle and the stitch on the left knitting needle. With the knitting right needle, purl into the front of the loop on the left knitting needle.

Make 1 With Right Twist Purl Side Insert the left needle from back to front under the strand that runs between the stitch on the right needle and the stitch on the left needle. With the right needle, purl into the front of the loop on the left needle.

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle in the top of the stitch in the row below the next stitch on the left knitting needle. Knit into this stitch, and then knit the next stitch on the left knitting needle.

Insert the tip of the left knitting needle into the top of the stitch two rows below the first stitch on the right knitting needle. Knit into this stitch, and then knit the stitch on the left knitting needle.

Decreasing removes stitches from those already on the knitting needle, making the fabric narrower.

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle through the next two stitches on the left knitting needle as if to knit. Knit these two stitches together as one.

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle through the next two stitches on the left knitting needle as if to purl. Purl these two stitches together as one.

(SSK)

Slip the next two stitches, one at a time, from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit. Insert the tip of the left knitting needle through both slipped stitches in front of the right knitting needle. Knit these two stitches together.

(SSP)

Slip the next two stitches, one at a time, from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit. Slip these stitches back to the left knitting needle keeping them twisted. Purl these two stitches together through their back loops.

(SKP)

Slip the next stitch to the right knitting needle as if to knit. Knit the next stitch on the left knitting

needle. Insert the left knitting needle into the slipped stitch and pull it over the first stitch and off the

knitting needle.

(S2KP2) (CCD)

Slip the next two stitches from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit two together. Knit the next stitch on the left knitting needle. Insert the left knitting needle into the two slipped stitches and pull them over the first stitch and off the right knitting needle.

(DNP)

Using the long-tail method, cast on the required number of stitches. Evenly divide the stitches between the knitting needles. Arrange the knitting needles to form a triangle, with the base down and the point facing up. The stitches are at the inner edge of the triangle formed by the needles and should not be twisted. Both the tail end and the end of yarn connected to the skein are at the end of needle three.

Cast on the required number of stitches as you would onto a straight knitting needle. Spread the stitches evenly across the circular knitting needle, being careful not to twist the stitches. Hold the circular knitting needle so that the working end of the yarn is on the right-hand tip. Place a stitch marker on the right-hand knitting needle tip to mark the beginning of the round. Knit the first stitch on the left-hand knitting needle tip. Keep knitting the stitches, sliding them along the circular knitting needle as you work them from left to right. When you reach the stitch marker, slip it to the right hand

knitting needle tip a continue knitting around for the required number of rounds.

How to Knit in the Round

Cast on the required number of stitches onto a 29-inch, or longer, circular knitting needle. Slide the stitches to the cable portion of the circular knitting needle. Pinch the cable in half and then pull to create a large loop. Arrange half the stitches on one knitting needle tip, and half on the other tip. Slip the last cast-on stitch from the bottom knitting needle tip to the top knitting needle tip. Slip the first cast-on stitch from the top knitting needle tip over the transferred stitch and onto the bottom knitting needle tip. Hold the knitting needle in your left hand, and pull out the knitting needle tip that holds the "tail end" so that the stitches that were on the needle tip are now resting on the cable. Begin working the stitches that are still on the opposite knitting needle tip as if you were working on straight knitting needles. At the end of the row, simply turn the work around and reposition the stitches so that half the stitches to be worked are on the knitting needle tip and the other half are resting on the knitting needle cable. Continue to work in this manner until desired length is reached.

Cast on the required number of stitches, dividing the stitches between two circular knitting needles.

Slip the last cast on stitch from the bottom knitting needle to the top knitting needle. Slip the first cast on stitch from the top knitting needle over the transferred stitch and onto the bottom knitting needle. Adjust the stitches so that the non working stitches are on the cable of the bottom knitting needle and the working stitches are on the top knitting needle. Work all stitches across the top knitting needle. Turn your work so that the top knitting needle is now on the bottom and the newly worked stitches are resting on the cable and the bottom knitting needle is on the top holding the stitches that are to be worked. Continue until desired length is achieved.

Jogless Join

How to Knit in the Round

When changing colors, knit the entire first round with the new color,

stopping at the beginning-of-round stitch marker. Slip the first stitch of

the second round of the new color purlwise, and then continue knitting

around.

Kitchener Stitch

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front

knitting needle as if to purl. Draw the yarn through the stitch,

leaving the stitch on the knitting needle. Insert the tapestry

needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl. Slip

the stitch off the knitting needle. Insert the tapestry needle into

the next stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit, leaving

the stitch on the knitting needle; pull the yarn through. Insert the

tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front knitting needle

as if to knit, and then slip the stitch off the knitting needle. Insert

the tapestry needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if

to purl, leaving the stitch on the needle. Pull the yarn through.

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Mattress Stitch Seam

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

Hold the two pieces parallel with the right sides of the fabric facing you and cast-on edge at the

bottom. Insert the tapestry needle from back to front between the first two stitches, just above the

cast-on stitch; pull the yarn through, leaving a 3-inch tail. Insert the needle from front to back

between the first stitch and second stitches of the second piece and pull the yarn through. Return to

the first piece and insert the needle from the right side to wrong side where the yarn previously

came out of the piece. Slip the needle upward under the next horizontal bar and bring the needle

through to the right side. Cross to the other side and repeat the same process, going down where

you came out, under one bar and up. Continue until seam is complete, pulling seam closed every

inch or so. Weave in the tail. Use the beginning tail to even-up the lower edge by working a figure 8

between the cast-on stitches at the corners. Insert the threaded tapestry needle from front to back

under both threads of the corner cast-on stitch on the edge opposite the tail, then into the same

stitch on the first edge. Pull gently until the “8” fills the gap.

Invisible Horizontal Seam

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

Hold the two pieces of fabric parallel to each other with right sides facing and cast-on edge at the

bottom. Insert the tapestry needle from the back to the front between the first two stitches on the first

piece of fabric just above the cast-on stitch. Pull the yarn through, leaving a 3-inch tail. Insert the

tapestry needle from the front to the back between the first two stitches of the second piece of fabric

and pull the yarn through. Return to the first piece of fabric and insert the tapestry needle from the

right side to wrong side where the yarn comes out of the piece. Slip the tapestry needle upward

under two horizontal stands and bring the needle through to the right side. Cross to the other side

and repeat the same process, going down where you came out, under two strands and up. Continue

working back and forth on the two pieces in the same manner for about an inch, and then gently pull

on the yarn to snug the two pieces together. Continue until seam is complete, pulling seam closed

every inch or so. Weave in the tail. Use the beginning tail to even-up the lower edge by working a

figure 8 between the cast-on stitches at the corners. Insert the threaded needle from front to back

under both threads of the corner cast-on stitch on the edge opposite the tail, then into the same

stitch on the first edge. Pull gently until the “8” fills the gap.

Vertical to Horizontal Seam

How to Weave, Graft and Sew in Knitting

To sew a vertical edge to a horizontal edge, use a combination of the mattress stitch (vertical

seaming method) and the horizontal seaming method. Work across one piece of fabric vertically,

picking up the bars, and across the other piece horizontally, working under the point of the “v”s.

Loosely pin the pieces together before you begin. Since there are more rows to the inch than

stitches, you’ll need to accommodate that difference so that the edge does not cause one side to

pucker. When working stockinette stitch, for every third “v” point you pick up, pick up 2 bars rather

than one. For garter stitch, you will usually be seaming one horizontal “ridge" to 1 stitch. For other

stitch patterns, pinning the two pieces together will give you a good sense of how you’ll need to ease

the two pieces together.

Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail, and run the yarn tail through the back loops of the stitches, working diagonally along the piece. Weave at least two inches in one direction and then another two inches in the other directions. Gently pull the fabric a bit to even the stitches out, and then cut off the end of the yarn tail.

Attached I Cord

Specialized Knitting Techniques

At the end of the row, cast on four stitches to the left knitting needle. Knit the first three I-cord

stitches, and then work an skp decrease, joining the last I-cord stitch with the first stitch of the main

fabric. Repeat until all the stitches across the main fabric have been bound off. To turn the corner,

work three rows of unattached I-cord. To attach the i-cord along the vertical edge knit three, slip one

knit-wise, knit one stitch from the main fabric edge, and pass the slipped stitch over. Repeat.

To turn a cable to the left, slip stitches onto a cable knitting needle and hold the stitches in front of the work. Knit the next stitches on the left knitting needle, and then knit the stitches from the cable knitting needle to complete the cable turn.

Right Turn

To turn a cable to the right, slip stitches onto a cable knitting needle and hold the stitches in back of the work. Knit the next stitches on the left knitting needle, and then knit the stitches from the cable knitting needle to complete the cable turn.

Specialized Knitting Techniques

Appearance in pattern - Dup

With a tapestry needle, bring the yarn from the back to the front of the fabric at the base of the stitch that is to be duplicated. Insert the tapestry needle from right to left behind both sides of the stitch above the one being duplicated. Complete the stitch by inserting the needle into point at which the yarn first came through to the front and pull it back to the wrong side. Repeat as necessary to work additional duplicate stitches in desired locations.

Fringe

Specialized Knitting Techniques

Cut a piece of cardboard half as long as specified in instructions for strands plus 1/2 inch for

trimming. Wind yarn loosely and evenly around cardboard. When cardboard is filled, cut yarn across

one end. Do this several times then begin fringing. Wind additional strands as necessary.

Single Knot Fringe

Hold specified number of strands for one knot together, fold in half. Hold project to be fringed with

right side facing you. Use crochet hook to draw folded end through space or stitch indicated from

right to wrong side. Pull loose ends through folded section. Draw knot up firmly. Space knots as

indicated in pattern instructions.

Double Knot Fringe

Begin by working single knot fringe completely across one end of piece. With right side facing you

and working from left to right, take half the strands of one knot and half the strands of the knot next

to it and knot them together.

Triple Knot Fringe

Work double knot fringe across. On the right side, work from left to right tying a third row of knots.

Spaghetti Fringe

Following single knot fringe instructions, tie each knot with just one strand of yarn.

I CORD

Using double-point knitting needles and the backwards-loop method, cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit across, do not turn; Slide stitches to opposite end of double-point knitting needle, pulling working yarn tightly across the back of the piece. Knit across; do not turn. Repeat until i-cord measures desired length. Bind off or cut yarn and pull end through stitches

INTARSIA

In certain patterns there are larger areas of color within the piece. Since this type of pattern requires a new color only for that section, it is not necessary to carry the yarn back and forth across the back of the fabric. For this type of color work, use a separate ball, bobbin or "butterfly" of yarn for each color so that each color is available only where needed. In order to prevent holes when changing colors, bring the new color around the old color from beneath to twist the yarns.

PICK UP N KNIT

With the right side of the fabric facing you and working one stitch in from edge, insert the tip of the knitting needle in the space between the first and second stitches. Wrap the yarn around the needle. Pull the loop through to the front. Repeat until you have picked up the number of stitches indicated in the pattern.

SLIP 1 KNITWISE

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle in the next stitch on the left knitting needle from front to back as if to knit. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle onto the right knitting needle.

SL ST SLIP

Insert the tip of the right knitting needle in the next stitch on the left knitting needle from back to front as if to purl. Slide the stitch off the left knitting needle onto the right knitting needle.

K1 TBL

With yarn in back, insert the right knitting needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the left needle, then complete as a knit stitch.

Specialized Knitting Techniques

Step 1: Knit one stitch, then yarn over twice as shown with the lighter-colored yarn.

Step 2: Work across row, dropping yarn overs to create an elongated stitch as shown with the lighter colored yarn in the illustration below.

Specialized Knitting Techniques

Zippers can easily be added to a knit garment. Different weights of garments need different weight zippers. Heavy separating zippers are used on jackets and cardigans, while regular dressmaking zippers are used for neck or skirt openings. The zipper should be sewn in by hand using a backstitch through both the zipper and knit piece. To add a zipper, place the knit edges over the zipper so the zipper teeth are covered and the seam is centered over the zipper. From the right side, pin in place. On the wrong side tack the edges of the zipper to the garment.

Turn to the right side and backstitch the zipper in place.

P1 TBL

With yarn in front, insert the right knitting needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the left needle, then complete as a purl stitch.