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CreativeGarmentRecycling:

ConstructionandDeconstruction

FTFDCG290SummerIII2012

TaylorSeitz

ProfessorSabrinaFichi

DepartmentofFashionAccessoriesandTechnology

FlorenceUniversityoftheArts

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DeconstructedDesigns

NicholasK

Bless

Karl

Lagerfeld

EvilTwin

PixieMarket

DriesvonNoten

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NicholasKNicholasKisanAmericanlabelestablishedin2003

byChristopherandNicholasKunz.Thelabel

featuresmanyunique

creationsanddesignsofa

reconstructed,grungelook

thatisstillwearableoffof

therunway.Themostcommoncarrierofthelabel

isFreePeople,whichcanbefoundinafewUS

departmentstores,aswellasFreePeopleshopsand

online.Thepictureshereshowmanysamplesofthe

Spring2012NicholasK

collection.

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InspirationMyinspirationforthiscollectionisidea

ofbeingeco-friendlyand“green”withinfashion.Manydesigners,suchasNicholasK,havecreatedgarmentsthat

arerecycledorhavethelookofreconstructiontothem.Ratherthanjustgivemygarmentsthelookof

reconstruction,IwanteveryonetoseethatIactuallytookrecycledclothingandturnedthemintoanewlook.Thephotosattherightarephotosofwaterfallsthatinspiremywayof

thinking“green,”literallyandinthesenseofnatureandearthfriendly.Ichosephotoswithblueundertones

becauseoftheamountofdeniminmycollection.

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FirstProject:Slippers

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Fabric&ColorBoard

Denim

NavyBlue

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Sketch

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TheProcess–CreatingthePattern

1.  Lieoutapairofjeansthathasanicepatternordesignonthepocket.ConsiderslippingyourfeetintothepocketstoensureagoodZit.

2.  Pinpre-madepatternpiecesontoonelegofthepants,catchingbothlayers.Youcaneasilycreate

bytracingthesolesofapairofpre-existing

slippersorshoes.

Front

Back

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TheProcess–CuttingoutFabric3.Cutoutthebackpockets,leavinga1.5cmseam

allowance.

4.Flipthepocketsoverandremovetheinsidepiece,leavingonlyonelayerofjean–thepocket.

5.  Cutoutthesoles,leaving1.5cmofseamallowance.

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TheProcess–Sewing6.Usetracingpapertomarktheseam

allowanceafterthepieceiscut.

7.Pinthepocketpiecestoonelayerofthesoles,makingsuretopicjusttheedgeofthe

pocketZlapinlinewiththeseamallowanceonthesoles.

8.Sewthepiecestogether.

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TheProcess–Sewing9.Next,liethesewnpiecesonacouplelayersofinterfacing.Pinthemdown,thencutinline

withthesole.

10.Sewtheinterfacingtothesole,following

theseamallowanceandedgeofpocketas

before.

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TheProcess–Sewing11.Now,pintheotherlayerofthesoletothe

bottomoftheinterfacing,rightsidefacingup.

Sewalongtheseamallowance,leavingasmallgapforreversingtheshoe.

12.Trimtheseamallowancehalfway,catchingalllayers.

13.Fliptheshoe,sewtheopeningclosedby

foldingtheedgeundertomatchtheseam

allowance.

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TheProcess:Embroidery14.OncetheshoeisZinishedandalledgeshavebeensmoothedout,decideonanembroideryto

addtothetop.Itcanbeanythingthatyouchoose.15.Forthisshoe,IwillusealaceembroideryfoldedinawaytocreatethelookofZlowers.16.Takeapieceoflacethatisabout7cmlong,lineupthebottomedgesandsewthemtogetherinacircularway.

17.Attachthepiecetothetopoftheshoewithafewsmallstitches.

18.Repeatthisthreetimesforeachfoot,

arrangingthelaceinthecenter.

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TheFinalProduct:

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SecondProject:Dress

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Fabric&ColorBoard

Cotton Cotton

VioletPurple

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Sketch

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TheProcess–CuttingtheFabric

1.Startwithastrappeddressandanyblouse.Lie

outthedressZirstandZindthecenterofthefrontandtheback.Pininplaceifnecessary.

2.Cutalongthecenters,separatingthedressinto

twopieces.

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TheProcess–CuttingoutFabric

3.Next,cuttheblouseonthesideseams,separating

thefrontfromtheback.Dothisonbothsides.4.Matchuptheedgeoftheblousetothenewlycutcenterfrontandcenterbackofthedress.

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TheProcess–Sewing5.Whenlininguptheedges,makesurethe

bottomsofthegarmentsmatchup.

6.Folddowntheremainingamountatthetopofthelongergarmentsothatitmatches

theotherandZinishitbysewing.If

necessary,tripsomeawayZirst.

7.Createtheseambyoverlockingthetwo

piecestogether.

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TheProcess–Sewing

8.Trimthetopoftheblousethatextendspastthetop

ofthedress.9.Finishthecutedgebyoverlockingandfoldingit

over,thensewingusingazigzagstitch.

10.Finishalloftheedgesusingtheoverlock

machine,thenfoldunderandaddazigzagstitch.

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TheProcess–Sewing

11.Placeapintuckedpleatinthefrontandbackwherethefabricpuckersandhandstitch.

12.Attachanewsetofstrapsinthecoloror

styleofyourchoosingfortheleftarm.

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TheProcess–Embroidery12.Addanembroiderypiecetothefrontoverthenewpleat.

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TheFinalProduct:

h d k

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ThirdProject:Skirt

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Fabric&ColorBoard

Denim

NavyBlue

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Sketch

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TheProcess–CreatingthePattern

1.Lieoutapairstraightleggedjeans.2.Cutstraightacrossonelegofthejeanswherethe

inseambegins.3.Fliptheplantsonelegintotheothertolineupthe

cutforthenextlegandcut.

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TheProcess–CuttingtheFabric4.Foldoneofthelegsinhalfandcutintotwoeven

piecesatthekneearea.Repeatforthesecondleg.

5.Removetheinseamsfromallfourpieces.6.Cutandre-positiontheinseamatthebottomof

thewaistsectiontoalignitproperly.Straightstitchtheseam.

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TheProcess–Sewing7.Alignthefourpiecesofthepants,inan

ordersuchas,bottomoflegone,topofleg

one,bottomoflegtwo,topoflegtwo.

8.Measureeachpiecetoanamountthatmatchesand

trimeachaccordingly

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TheProcess–Sewing9.Attacheachpiecetogetherwithastraightstitchusing

themachine.Then,attachthelastpiecetotheZirstcreating

atube.

10.Pinthetubetothetoppartoftheskirtbyattachingthebottomofthetubetotheinsideofthebottomedgeofthe

skirt.

11.Flipthetubeattachmentupandpinthetoptotheskirt

andbottomofthetubetocreatethebubblelook.Attach

withahandbaste.

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TheProcess–Sewing12.Createthepleatsinthefrontandsidesoftheskirtbyaddingfoldstothetubeportion.

13.Createabunchinthebackoftheskirtbyusingabastingstitch.

14.Attachthetubetotheupperportionoftheskirtusingazigzagorstraightstitch.

15.Addtulleintothebottompartofthe

skirtformorevolume

16.Blindstitchthe

openinginthe

bottomportion

closedusingahand

stitch.

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TheProcess:Embroidery15.Addanappliquetothebackpocketofthejeanofyourchoice.Here,Iaddeda

crochetedcellphoneholder.

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TheFinalProduct:

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FourthProject:Shirt

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Fabric&ColorBoard

Cotton

Turquoise

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Sketch

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TheProcess–CuttingtheFabric

1.Lieoutacrewneckt-shirt.

2.Cutstraightacrossjustbelowtheneckonthe

frontofthet-shirtONLY.3.Cutoffthesleevesonananglethatextendsfrom

nearthenecktothearmpit.

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TheProcess–CuttingtheFabric

4.Cutstraightacrossthebackofthet-shirt

atthearmpit.5.Removethestripofoverlockedseamfrom

thebottom.

h C l

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TheProcess–CreatingDetails

6.Makeknotsinthestripandcutintotwo,

oruseafancyribbonorchainthatyoulike.7.AligneachpiecetothecornersofthefronttopoftheshirtandafZixwithahandstitch.

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TheProcess:FinishingtheProject8.Finishtheedgesoftheshirtonallsides.9.Ifnecessary,takeatuckorpleatinthebackof

theshirtaspictured.

h l d

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TheFinalProduct:

f h h

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FifthProject:Shirt

F b i & C l B d

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Fabric&ColorBoard

Cotton

BrownBlack

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Sketch

Th P C i h F b i

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TheProcess–CuttingtheFabric

1.Lieoutacrewneckt-shirt.

2.Findthemiddleofthefrontandbackoftheshirt

inordertocreatepropercutsacrossthesleevesandneckline.

3.Putonesideoftheshirtintotheothertocreatethe

equalsides.

Th P C i h F b i

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TheProcess–CuttingtheFabric4.Cutalongthesleeve,removingitatanangle.5.Removethenecklinecreatingascoopneckonthe

front6.RemovethebacknecklinecreatingaVshapeinthe

back.

7.Cutatanangleonthebackoftheshirtcreatinga

diamondshape.

8.Addateardropshapecutoutonthebackoftheshirt,andbunchthe

meetingpointofthe

sleevestogetherusinga

handstitch.

Th P C ti D t il

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TheProcess–CreatingDetails

9.Addapiecefromthesleevetothebackwherethereisthebunch.

10.Addabeadoverthispiecefordetail!

Th Fi l P d t

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TheFinalProduct:

The Mini Collection:

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TheMiniCollection:

Glossary of Important Terms

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GlossaryofImportantTerms•  The“green”fashionmovement:garmentrecyclingwithinthefashionindustry.•  Reconstructedclothing:thepracticeofcreatingnewclothesfromexistinggarmentsin

variousways.•  Reduce,Reuse,Recycle:

•  Reduce:savingenergybylesseningtheamountofuseofanyitem.Withclothes,youarereducingwastebychoosingalternatewaystoclotheyourself.

•  Reuse:secondbestwaytodiminishwaste.Itisreusingclothing,orotherthings,aftertheirZirstuse.

•  Recycle:takinganexistingproductandreprocessingitintoacompletelynewanddifferentproduct.•  Deconstruction:garmentsthatareunZinished,comingapart,recycled,transparent,and

grunge.

•  Eco-Fashion:presentsrecyclability,butmachineproduced…sotheargumentholdslittleweight.

•  Deconstructionism:“undoing”fashiontocreatenewpiecesof“deconstructed”fashion.

•  LeDestroy:rebelstyleoffashionassociatedwithdeconstructionism.•  Anti-Fashion:rebelformoffashionusedtonegativelycritiquenormalizedfashion

codes.

•  eitgeist:“spiritofthetimes”•  Ontology:thebranchofmetaphysicsusedtodealwiththenatureofbeing•  Margiela:fashiondesignerdescribedastheZirstmajordeconstructionistdesignerin

the1980s