Creating a Back Neck Facing for a Garment

8/4/2019 Creating a Back Neck Facing for a Garment

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Creating a Back Neck Facing for aGarmentcomments (7)August 29th, 2011 ingarment construction,tips & tricks,fundamentals,extras ShareThis

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Create a clean finish with the collar turned under from shoulder seam toshoulder seam across the neckline of the back of the garment.

There are several reasons why you want to create a back neck facing. The fabricis too heavy to turn under at the neckline and collar without bulk; your skillsmight still be working up to careful or accurate sewing; time...it is quicker to

make a back neck facing than to turn under the collar; and a deep back neckfacing is used in better ready-to-wear.

1. To start drawing a back neck facing, place tissue extending away from thefront of the garment pattern. Draw the stitching line 5/8 away from the cuttingline on the front of the garment the length of the facing at the shoulder line.


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2. Mark a dot at both ends of the line you just drew. Draw another line 5/8above the first. (This will be the cutting line for the back neck facing.

3. Place the tissue over the back pattern piece matching the cutting line alongthe shoulder seam with the cutting line of the back pattern piece. Slide thetissue back and forth until the dot at the end of the stitching line matches theneckline of the back pattern neckline.


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4. Note that the back pattern piece has a center back seam. The back facing iscut on the fold so don't include the seam allowance in your draft. Draw a

vertical line parallel to the center back 5/8 (this would be the stitching line) forthe back of the garment. This vertical line is approximately 6-7 long. Ready-

to-wear is making very deep back facings for several reasons. The back neckfacing does not ride up and out the way a short back facing has a tendency to

do; and when the garment is on a hanger in a shop, there is a lovely spot for alarger label and greater hanger appeal.


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5. Using a French Curve (design ruler) trace accurately the curve of the necklineconnecting the vertical back line you drew to the cutting line of the shoulderseam.

6. Continuing with the French curve draw a line from the outside back neckfacing dot to the bottom center back facing line. Make sure the line at the

bottom of the facing is perpendicular with the center back fold line. If thehorizontal line curves up or down when the facing is opened out flat, an upside

down heart shape or point will form.


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7. Cut out the facing . Label the tissue to be "Cut on the Fold" and to "Cut 1".Depending on the fabric weight, the back facing may or may not be interfaced.Many ready-to-wear workrooms serge around the curve from shoulder seam toshoulder seam and to finish the garment, the back facing is stitched to the backof the garment. This can be sewn from the wrong side of the garment using the

edge of the back facing as a guide for stitching. The thread is usually the samecolor as the garment to blend in. This row of stitching also holds the facing inplace to keep it from riding up and out of the garment.

Creating a Back Neck Facing for a Garment

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