COSTUME CONSTRUCTION

COSTUME SHOP

• Cutter/Draper- is responsible for actually translating the designer’s sketches into reality• First hand-to supervise the construction of the costumes• Stitchers-operate the sewing machines and do the hand sewing that pieces the costumes

together• Dye/painters-dye and paint the fabric• Milliner-makes hats and accessories • Wigmaster-makes, styles, arranges the wigs• Costume craftsperson-makes and creates the shoes• Wardrobe supervisor-responsible for all costumes and accessories

CREATING A COSTUME

• There are three different ways a costume is created for a production• Rental: the theatre rents costumes from a costume shop• Reuse: costume shops use materials and stock to create a new piece• Build: construct a costume from scratch

COSTUME NEEDS

• Costumes used in theatre or dance performances often need to serve multiple purposes• At times an actor may need to change costume quickly or on stage

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcP1cV3nBZI• If a costume is being used in a musical or dance number, the costume cannot

hinder the actor• The costume must be durable, shows on Broadway can run up to 10 times in a

week• The costume must be safe for the actor

THE PRODUCTION BUDGET FOR THE

BROADWAY MUSICAL WICKED WAS $42

MILLIONThe bubble dress for Glinda in the Broadway production of Wicked is

worth approximately $35,000. The costume was built from scratch and

includes thousands of beads and sequins that were hand stitched.

The main dress for the Wicked Witch is worth approximately $20,00.

BEHIND THE SCENES

• Behind the scenes of Wicked• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCXEgzBkfsA

STITCH 101

• Straight Stitch• Basic stitch used for hems, sewing two pieces of material together, and gathering fabric

• Whip Stitch• Used for decorative purposes, can be invisible, and can close a hem

• Catchstitch• Line of x’s, is a stronger stitch, flexible and strong

• Fell Stitch• Attaches a raw or folded edge

• Slip Stitch• Used for joining two fabrics together

• Basting Stitch• Wide running stitches meant to be temporary

COSTUMES:THEATRE V. FILM

• Phantom of the Opera (2004)• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RplYRP0wX1E&list=PL171D74BDEB7DC93A

• Phantom of the Opera 25th Anniversary performance• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlUmAt7WISA&list=PLA0F91BDB3A1CF2EC

STICHES

• Straight stitch• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06T0C3RWfxY

• Whip stitch• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9kGyZDWZcA

• Fell stitch• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYf2xm1KDG4

• Buttons

COSTUME MEASUREMENTS

• A CHEST/BUST (M/F) — circumference taken around greatest fullness• B WAIST (M/F) — circumference taken around natural waistline• C HIP (F) — circumference taken around greatest fullness• D OUTSEAM (M/F) — taken from natural waistline to just below ankle bone• E INSEAM (M) — taken from crotch to just below ankle bone• F NECK SIZE (M/F) — neck size taken around base of neck

COSTUME MEASUREMENTS

• G SLEEVE LENGTH(M/F) — sleeve length taken from prominent neck vertebrae across shoulder to wrist

• H HAT (M/F) — circumference taken around head above ears• I SHOULDER TO SHOULDER (M/F) — taken across back from shoulder bone to

shoulder bone• J NAPE TO WAIST (M/F) — taken from base of neck to natural waist• K NAPE TO FLOOR (M/F) — taken from base of neck to floor